Trust me compared with my soldering and wiring skills you are perfect, not only would I have burnt the house down but most of the wiring would just be a molten wreck of blackened plastic.
My dear , as i was watching your videoes , you did fantastuqe job ,excelent , the only one point should be consider about negative DC out , act as o volt and com . Thank you and good luck .
Normally when using NPN NO or NC sensors, the 24 volts is only needed to power the sensor. The actual output is an open circuit when off. This can use the 5V pull up logic on your controller with no other modification or resistors. When the sensor triggers, even in parallel, it simply provides a ground to the controller. Not complicated and no special parts needed. Two or more can be wired in parallel so when any trip, it provides a ground to the controller input. There is less likely vibration and movement will break a small wire on a resistor when it isn't there.
Great videos, I just wish I had the time, space and budget to make something like that. When I'm soldering things I swear by a big lump of bluetak, it allows me to temporarily hold the thing I'm soldering to. For level shifting 12V to 5V you can get pre made PCB boards with a row of inputs and outputs to do the level shifting for you although the resistors should be fine but they will interact with the internal pull ups on the Arduino, if I remember correctly I think they can be disabled in the software.
10k ohm from the blue power supply ground wire to the black wire that goes to the breakout board input pin gives you a 6 volts signal voltage for a 12 volt brown wire for a NPN Proximity Switch and for two in parallel the resistor would be half like 4.7k ohms.
I have been advised to always use Limit Switches the are operated in a NC environment for safety sake. Do you know of any that will work in this format? And yes I do realize that for an electrical device to work it needs a current running at all times.
Yeah I hope I haven't made myself more problems going with the proximity sensors. I can't really recommend any as I am using normally open ones. but what I would say is get the screened type if you do go with proximity sensors. I didn't, and will have to shield the wire at a later point.
@@EducatingSavvas The NC PNP type are used in higher power stuff as any wire break, cut or grounding of the wire drops the active high. Unfortunately in an arduino environment, they 1 don't like 24 volts in the input, and you can't wire two in parallel, so each requires it's own input.
@@isettech I'm going to put up a new video soon about failsafes and opto-isolators. But I also did a controller rebuild video which is already up. Mine looks very different inside now.
Hi Savvas, firstly i love following your series. Instead of using voltage dividers an easier way would have been to use a diode in reverse from your sensor output to the controller. Then set the pull-up resistor on the controller. When the sensor isn't triggered you'll get 5v from the pull-up resistor, but when it is triggered you'll get 0v (because the sensor output is grounded). This meanes that it'll work regardless of the supply voltage to the sensor, where as if you change your supply voltage you'll have to change the resistor values for your voltage dividers to suit. TECH2C has a good video about sensors here, th-cam.com/video/wih4fNkKUCc/w-d-xo.html Keep up the good work.
The thought of using diodes popped in my mind because I noticed the stepper drivers use them to separate the inputs and prevent - but I went with voltage dividers as there were people (and Nathan) around to ask questions when I got stuck. Thanks for the link!
Great videos, I just wish I had the time, space and budget to make something like that. When I'm soldering things I swear by a big lump of bluetak, it allows me to temporarily hold the thing I'm soldering to. For level shifting 12V to 5V you can get pre made PCB boards with a row of inputs and outputs to do the level shifting for you although the resistors should be fine but they will interact with the internal pull ups on the Arduino, if I remember correctly I think they can be disabled in the software.
Trust me compared with my soldering and wiring skills you are perfect, not only would I have burnt the house down but most of the wiring would just be a molten wreck of blackened plastic.
Lol, thanks John!! I've made a few of those molten things along the way.
wow what a project to undertake. keep up the good work and stay safe.
Thanks Simon!
My dear , as i was watching your videoes , you did fantastuqe job ,excelent , the only one point should be consider about negative DC out , act as o volt and com .
Thank you and good luck .
Normally when using NPN NO or NC sensors, the 24 volts is only needed to power the sensor. The actual output is an open circuit when off. This can use the 5V pull up logic on your controller with no other modification or resistors. When the sensor triggers, even in parallel, it simply provides a ground to the controller. Not complicated and no special parts needed. Two or more can be wired in parallel so when any trip, it provides a ground to the controller input. There is less likely vibration and movement will break a small wire on a resistor when it isn't there.
Great videos, I just wish I had the time, space and budget to make something like that.
When I'm soldering things I swear by a big lump of bluetak, it allows me to temporarily hold the thing I'm soldering to.
For level shifting 12V to 5V you can get pre made PCB boards with a row of inputs and outputs to do the level shifting for you although the resistors should be fine but they will interact with the internal pull ups on the Arduino, if I remember correctly I think they can be disabled in the software.
10k ohm from the blue power supply ground wire to the black wire that goes to the breakout board input pin gives you a 6 volts signal voltage for a 12 volt brown wire for a NPN Proximity Switch and for two in parallel the resistor would be half like 4.7k ohms.
I have been advised to always use Limit Switches the are operated in a NC environment for safety sake. Do you know of any that will work in this format? And yes I do realize that for an electrical device to work it needs a current running at all times.
Yeah I hope I haven't made myself more problems going with the proximity sensors. I can't really recommend any as I am using normally open ones. but what I would say is get the screened type if you do go with proximity sensors. I didn't, and will have to shield the wire at a later point.
@@EducatingSavvas The NC PNP type are used in higher power stuff as any wire break, cut or grounding of the wire drops the active high. Unfortunately in an arduino environment, they 1 don't like 24 volts in the input, and you can't wire two in parallel, so each requires it's own input.
@@isettech I'm going to put up a new video soon about failsafes and opto-isolators. But I also did a controller rebuild video which is already up. Mine looks very different inside now.
I would have twisted those resistors together before soldering imo.
I liked that they looked like wishbones. Lol.
Hi Savvas, firstly i love following your series. Instead of using voltage dividers an easier way would have been to use a diode in reverse from your sensor output to the controller. Then set the pull-up resistor on the controller. When the sensor isn't triggered you'll get 5v from the pull-up resistor, but when it is triggered you'll get 0v (because the sensor output is grounded). This meanes that it'll work regardless of the supply voltage to the sensor, where as if you change your supply voltage you'll have to change the resistor values for your voltage dividers to suit.
TECH2C has a good video about sensors here, th-cam.com/video/wih4fNkKUCc/w-d-xo.html
Keep up the good work.
The thought of using diodes popped in my mind because I noticed the stepper drivers use them to separate the inputs and prevent - but I went with voltage dividers as there were people (and Nathan) around to ask questions when I got stuck. Thanks for the link!
Great videos, I just wish I had the time, space and budget to make something like that.
When I'm soldering things I swear by a big lump of bluetak, it allows me to temporarily hold the thing I'm soldering to.
For level shifting 12V to 5V you can get pre made PCB boards with a row of inputs and outputs to do the level shifting for you although the resistors should be fine but they will interact with the internal pull ups on the Arduino, if I remember correctly I think they can be disabled in the software.