Just curious if there are any changes to control surface balance with the added material. I'm getting ready to start doing fiberglass and this was very helpful! Keep the great videos coming!
No it’s fine. Elevator is really only one that we’re concerned about but filling in both the inside (behind hinge line) and tip (in front trim line) keeps it balanced.
Hi Stu - Thank you so much for your videos. They are really nice. Is there any downside to filling control surfaces. The only one which occurred to me was perhaps wanting a special inspection at those areas at some point - like the elevator horn attachment points. Has that ever been a concern for you?
Hi Stu, are you doing this mod for aesthetics or chasing speed? I’m just about to start the fibreglass work on RV14 build, your videos are excellent introduction. Keep’m’coming!
Filling in control ends is for looks only. However I believe the inside of the elevator should be filled in. There have been occasions where emp fairing has come loose and affected control
Interesting question. I did it after but only because I wanted to get airplane flying. Don’t think it would be an issue on final inspection and lots others have done it.
I didn't weigh it but made sure the elevators were balanced still. For the elevators the fill is aft of the hinge line at the root and forward of the hinge line at the tip so it worked out very close and balanced.
Loving your videos slowly going through them as considering building an rv8 or 10 in the uk. Just a question regarding the panels do they need to include any drain holes? Martin.
Stu im building a rv7 at this time and i am very interested in doing this mod to my comtrol surfaces and wanted to ask if you have ever had and paint cracking around the edges at all where the epoxy is attached to alloy? Love your channel and has been a huge influence to our decision to build. Cheers Jeremy and Kelly Australia
Awesome thanks for watching. I’ve done it on 2 airplanes. The first one I flew for about 85 hrs with no issues before it was sold. I haven’t heard any complaints from the new owner. The RV8 is still without paint so no data there. If you use flox however it very solid. Key really is having a gap around the foam to form the strong edge and contouring the flat edge to fill with epoxy again. Should be good to go with proper prep
Thanks for the reply! I have west systems epoxy and flox so i think i will give it go. Im more than happy to spend time on prep and not re-work. Look forward to meeting you one day at osh
Stu: I an closing my ends on my RV-10 and after watching you video several times i noticed you have a bracket holding the wire for piano hinge on the elevator trim. Can you tell me what you used? Look like a better solution than wire tie as Vans recommends.
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 That would be great. I did save the remaining hinge material so I am good there. I assume you drilled out the first rivet and put in a nut and bolt. What type of bolt or screw? I was thinking of a AN507C632R8 and dimple or counter sink the elevator skin. I have used these on all the faring's with nutplates.
Curious if the reason for this is to gain speed or just to improve the look. Definitely want to know some before and after numbers. One bit of constructive criticism, you need better background music. Not a fan of the Russian techno LOL
Just for looks no speed advantage. I’ll work on music. It’s hard finding decent background music. I’ve just subscribed to a new site. We’ll see how it goes
Thank you, gave me the confidence to tackle this
Another winner…so happy when a new Stu’s pops up in my feed!
Glad you enjoyed it. Now if only the weather would clear I could get some more flying footage. I try and post every Thurs now - hope I can keep it up
Excellent & Informative - Thank you.
Fantastic your work, congratulations!!!
This video is a godsend! Thank you!
Lots of good info there. Thanks a lot for making this available to us.
You’re welcome. More projects to come!
Looks great! I'll definitely use this method on my -14. See you at OSH!
Awesome. I started a RV14. Great airplane. Just be sure to recess the foam and cover with flow otherwise it will be weak and crack
Great Work!
Great looking work. Sorry all this is gone to waste for 2020 Oshkosh. Hope to see the plane in '21 with paint.
Yup I’m changing the name of this series to “Prep for Oshkosh 2021”
Just curious if there are any changes to control surface balance with the added material. I'm getting ready to start doing fiberglass and this was very helpful! Keep the great videos coming!
No it’s fine. Elevator is really only one that we’re concerned about but filling in both the inside (behind hinge line) and tip (in front trim line) keeps it balanced.
Will try my hardest! Expect video every thurs unless other job interferes
Not sure if I missed it or not, but was that the same process you used to fill the horizontal and vertical tips?
Yup it’s the same everywhere
Крутой мужик, сам самолет делает
I like your tail wheel system. Where did you get it? Thanks
Fly Boy Accessories. Great upgrade
Howdy Stu. I am curious if one may paint directly over the flox and not add the layer of micro balloons mix?
You can yes. It’s all the same material really. Flox is harder though and take some effort to get nice and smooth
Any experience with water intrusion into the foam, or corrosion concerns?
Hi Stu - Thank you so much for your videos. They are really nice. Is there any downside to filling control surfaces. The only one which occurred to me was perhaps wanting a special inspection at those areas at some point - like the elevator horn attachment points. Has that ever been a concern for you?
No really in my lifetime. If you ever did need in there (aileron hinge nuts get covered) you could still drill it out. I wouldn’t worry about it :)
Hi Stu, are you doing this mod for aesthetics or chasing speed? I’m just about to start the fibreglass work on RV14 build, your videos are excellent introduction. Keep’m’coming!
Filling in control ends is for looks only. However I believe the inside of the elevator should be filled in. There have been occasions where emp fairing has come loose and affected control
Does this have to be done after the inspection? Or can it be done during the build?
Interesting question. I did it after but only because I wanted to get airplane flying. Don’t think it would be an issue on final inspection and lots others have done it.
Any idea how many sheets it takes to fill all the areas?
I think I bought 2 sheets 15”x26”? 3/4” thick. That seems like plenty to me
Looks really good. Did you weigh before & after?
I didn't weigh it but made sure the elevators were balanced still. For the elevators the fill is aft of the hinge line at the root and forward of the hinge line at the tip so it worked out very close and balanced.
Loving your videos slowly going through them as considering building an rv8 or 10 in the uk. Just a question regarding the panels do they need to include any drain holes? Martin.
There are drain holes in them yes - easy to hide
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 Thanks for the reply, the more I look not the RV's the more the enthusiasm builds.
I am doing something similar to my elevator and rudder.
How do you address the horizontal stab spar inspection
I drilled a hole about 3/8” and used a borescope
Stu im building a rv7 at this time and i am very interested in doing this mod to my comtrol surfaces and wanted to ask if you have ever had and paint cracking around the edges at all where the epoxy is attached to alloy? Love your channel and has been a huge influence to our decision to build. Cheers Jeremy and Kelly Australia
Awesome thanks for watching. I’ve done it on 2 airplanes. The first one I flew for about 85 hrs with no issues before it was sold. I haven’t heard any complaints from the new owner. The RV8 is still without paint so no data there. If you use flox however it very solid. Key really is having a gap around the foam to form the strong edge and contouring the flat edge to fill with epoxy again. Should be good to go with proper prep
Thanks for the reply! I have west systems epoxy and flox so i think i will give it go. Im more than happy to spend time on prep and not re-work. Look forward to meeting you one day at osh
@Jeremy Steiner planning to go this year we’ll see - have a house move coming up this summer
Stu: I an closing my ends on my RV-10 and after watching you video several times i noticed you have a bracket holding the wire for piano hinge on the elevator trim. Can you tell me what you used? Look like a better solution than wire tie as Vans recommends.
I use a other small piece of hinge. Can send you a pic if you wish
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 That would be great. I did save the remaining hinge material so I am good there. I assume you drilled out the first rivet and put in a nut and bolt. What type of bolt or screw? I was thinking of a AN507C632R8 and dimple or counter sink the elevator skin. I have used these on all the faring's with nutplates.
@@luck1242 I use a small #4 screw - dimple about same as #30 rivet. Shoot me an email for pics. Stu_aircraft_factory@hotmail.com
Can you use this same technique on the aft edge of the HS tip fairing as well?
Yes that’s what I do. Put some fiberglass resin on back of it to help bond it.
Curious if the reason for this is to gain speed or just to improve the look. Definitely want to know some before and after numbers. One bit of constructive criticism, you need better background music. Not a fan of the Russian techno LOL
Just for looks no speed advantage. I’ll work on music. It’s hard finding decent background music. I’ve just subscribed to a new site. We’ll see how it goes
@@stusaircraftfactory6592 I can imagine with all the digital rights issues. It won't keep me from watching your videos. Keep up the great work!
Looks good but keeping weight low is important as well.
Not clear to me why do this. It just adds weight.
It just cleans up airflow at end and basically for a cleaner look. Does reduce potential water ingestion as well