What breakin ? Break over 150 ? None Break in the paws of a dolt ? All...mostly anvil failure above 200(qr dies first) or joint fail in flexers How about a breaker bar test to see what brands anvil fails earliest ? Google breaker bar. They still make them. I still use them daily. Noop. I don't "flat rate". I'm a tech, not a parts changer. I have the thirty to fifty year old ratchets still functioning well to show for it My 5249 has been spinning in 4 countries and a dozen states since....1953 or so. Never had a kit.
Finally! Someone has a scientific way of proving then”smoothness” of ratchets, all these tools reviews spinning the ratchet by hand doesn’t prove the backlash grabbing in tight spots! Love my 120xp ratchets and snap-on 80 (the Snap-on suck when they are new, but they break in nicely 👍)..... in comparison I’ve had 120xp gearwrench spline wrenches, absolutely suck, all the backlash and back drag equate to my ATD platinum 72 tooth wrenches... awesome video!
This is really interesting because from personal feel, snap on is the best FEELING ratchet. I’ve tried most of these being tested and none feel as good to use. I do highly agree with breaking them in, there’s a big difference in feel once broken in.
Feel is all really subjective, but if it doesn't feel good in the hand you won't use it which makes it worthless. Getting things to wear nicely and get through the break-in period is key. Hopefully I was able to demo that point in the video both with the Snap On and Matco tools.
mr subaru and clientgraphics need to get together to put this debate to rest! either mrsubaru needs to loan some of his koken ratchets to clientgraphics for testing, or clientgraphics needs to lend out the inch-ounce torque wrench to mrsubaru for testing. would make a good video!
Ko-ken 3726Z 72T only sold thru palmec (Ko-ken USA) It's 7" long flex non-locking with dedent when it's straight. A sprung ball holds it in the position you put it. Not quick release. 72 tooth. I got one this week. They're 3/8 only so far. Just released this January. Also available in 11" length as well. It is so very smooth. Like winding a watch! No play at all. Yet it feels really strong and beefy. I wouldn't hesitate to use a cheater pipe on it. The finish and chrome are impeccable. Backdrag is very light. Lighter than my 1/4" Snap-On. Plus, what looks like a quick release button on the back is actually the back of the gearwheel so you can put your thumb on it and stop any backdrag. Palmec website is cumbersome. I don't know about warranty My ratchet was about $100 shipped.
The Steelman Pro Cobra ratchet is rough because it isnt factory lubed. I found that adding Singers Machining oil into the ratchet helps make it alittle more smooth. Great job on the video either way!
If you ever redo this test, I'd love to send my Koken made-in-Japan ratchet for a loaner. It's obscenely low backdrag compared to any of the other ratchets in my collection. I think it's only a 36T though so the swing-arc is huge but holy hell it'll ratchet on a bolt that is completely unthreaded.
Completely agree, Koken ratchets are very, very smooth, even with having what seem by current standards to have very low tooth counts. Just goes to show that tooth count isn't the be-all and end-all of ratchet quality.
OMG ! Yes! I found the exact same thing. I own 20 ratchets mostly Matco but I recently purchased a 1/4 Pittsburg pro with the comfort grip and I would be surprised if it was over 1in oz of backdraft. It's mind boggling. Cheap springs for the win !!!
When i clean my snap on and mac ratchets i mix super lube grease with the oil to get that perfect consistency. It works really well because the oil by it's self doesn't last long enough, being so thin it leaks out over time. And grease by its self is just a little to thick. Using both keeps the ratchet quite, smooth, & last the longest.
Chris I have a few snap on ratchets that are 10-12 years old that have turned probably nothing short of a million times. Just tested the back drag and it registered in less than one inoz
Well. Strap -On uses SUPER lube !!!! Because. They sell the crap. The Wright factory says light oil only.Ditto SK and th-cam.com/video/EoYJJj6_Lyk/w-d-xo.html
I've used synthetic grease, synthetc ATF mixed 50/50 with 0w20 synthetic oil, and dry lubes over the years on ratchets. Simplest method is just a dose of light machine oil (which is generally mineral oil). I think Super Lube machine oil is either mineral oil or silicon oil with a wear additive so probably one of the best choices.
The lightest backdrag ratchet I have is a Napa Evercraft quick release pear head. It's 24 tooth and appears to be based off of the old Proto mechanism. It's similar to the 72 tooth Pittsburgh Pro ratchets, but the levers are square on the end with no teeth. It seems lighter than my Pittsburgh Pro composite, which is very light already.
There ok actually there all pretty good these days it's more about what you can afford and a warranty the manufacturer will stand behind. Turn over time is a big plus too Noone wants to wait 6 months to get a new ratchet .
@@jeremyruff7961 takes longer then a week at least for one 8mm that is. Then again I've only went that route once since the matco dealer started warrenty them for me . My go to sockets are still snap on but I've owned them for the last 30 years long before any of these companies made a comparable tool . I still have my great new Britain wrenches Bonney and armstrong among others and don't get me wrong I have any other import brands as well . As a matter of fact whole impact set is jobsite from tractor supply and lasted a few years now .not because there the best because I can read them ... I'm old and blind now lol .anyways there's allot good tools out there now compared to my 30 year old snap that gets warranty no questions asked .
Lubricant makes a BIG difference in ratchet friction aka "back-drag". Grease in ratchet mechanism can prevent pawl to gear engagement causing the ratchet to slip then shearing off a ratchet gear tooth. Ideal oil for ratchets is synthetic low viscosity motor oil. There is little if any advantage to that "Super Lube" stuff for ratchet mechanism. It does contain teflon which can cause deposits at the bottom of the ratchet gear and pawl resulting in slippage, just like grease.
Nicely done. Another important variable is how far a ratchet twists before the first tooth click. Often the first tooth angle of twist is substantially different (better or worse) than the tooth count packaging claim (4deg, 5deg etc). I look forward to seeing you test that on your lovely collection.
I have made it a standard to grease every new ratchet I buy with Super Lube grease so I know for sure that it is greased. Experience has learned that almost all ratchets are shipped without grease nowadays. This is part down to production costs AND part because of shipping regulations. Some of the smoothest rachets I have are Stanley MicroTough (Hi Five/New Tools design) ratchets. A pain to grease but so worth it! Once I returned 3 Proxxon (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2) socket sets because of the backdrag they had in ALL of the ratchets. The backdrag was and is completely caused by the spring that's holding the ratchet (round head design) together. Without that spring they are smooth as butter... They were replaced with Taiwan made Bahco S-serie socket sets. The included ratchets have a lot of backlash and are also a pain to grease because of the internals but so smooth afterwards...
When your measuring this little of an amount, the grease and amount of it, will definitely change things. Crazy to see it in action and not just in theory
Grease plays a big part in resistance. Snap on uses a silicone compound or dielectric grease to rebuild there ratchets and takes a break in period for it to function effectively. I remove the grease or use as little as possible . Oil works good as well but sealed ratchets with oring tend to distort or swell as there not Viton. Unsealed ratchets I use marvel mystery oil to soak them in or wd40 especially if I use them to bleed brakes . I also use royal purple or even what Chris mentioned in his video.
Kevin Frye yeah your definitely over thinking it lol. Grease is grease oil is oil for the most part, long as there’s something in there.. it’s just a ratchet at the end of the day. Not a complex gear set that runs constantly lol
@@goinhot9133 not complex but if you bleed brakes with a non sealed ratchet and it gets inside it will rust . That is why I soak my ratchets . I also don't like rebuilt ratchets as I said my snap on dealer likes to pack the greasei in there and does not ratchet as easy so I remove most of it I'm not over thinking it simple fact is non sealed ratchets will fill with contamination if not cleaned soaked oiled or greased . It doesn't have to be brake fluid I've dropped a ratchet or two in a cooling drain pan a time or two as well and oil or grease makes them wheel go around not rust .
I'm glad you tested the Kobalt, I just picked one of those up today. It seems nice but my one gripe is that there seems to be a lot of slop between the forward and reverse directions, before it actually catches. The 90T ratcheting mechanism allows for a very low swing arm between each click, but when you initially reverse from the forward direction to reverse there's easily at least 5+ clicks worth of slop before it engages. so there may be only 4 degrees of swing before each click, but you've got to reverse it by like 20 degrees to get that first click.
The Pittsburgh ratchets really changed how I look at tools. And I pick my kobalt Stanley and hobo freight rachets before my snap on, Williams, SK, Mac proto stuff... I've never had any problems and they are way smoother and I don't cringe and cry everytime one falls on the floor from five feet up
I think this control group is a bit flawed. To me, the snapon seems like the best in terms of back drag in my own use. However- I noticed that you use the bigger 3/8 snap ons which I have noticed carry more back drag. You should try out a TLLF72 with a 3/8 kit. To me, seems like that combination has the least drag (compared to Pittsburgh pro, I have that one as well).
Snap-on the best? You might want to give some German brands a try. I own ratchets from Hazet, Stahlwille, Snap-on and Gedore, and I'm quite sure all of them have noticably less back drag than the Snap-on Dual 80's. The Gedore U-20's blows everything out of the water IME, even the more "premium" German brands. (in Germany, Stahlwille and Hazet are known as their Snap-on, with Gedore just a bit behind but not by much, probably a Wright, Proto, Williams equivalent. Just not shiny, they don't like shiny tools in Germany)
@@csboi only problem is warranty. Not gonna ship, wait, email, call. Nope. I need a new ratchet, snap on comes Friday morning. Done deal. If it’s am emergency he will make a special trip. That to me is worth is weight in gold.
To me minimum back drag is far more important than the high tooth count. My favorites are the old Proto pear heads. The mechanism is similar to the Pitsburg Pro with ultra low back drag.There is also minimal back lash.
That's why Ko-ken did what he did.He took the Pl^mb-Proto and did what Grumpy Jenkins did to a small block Chevrolet to get 500 HP Ko-ken amounts, basically, to a balanced and blueprinted Proto-type pearhead.
Man good tool. I didn't know they made something like this. I wish I would have known this existed back then. Interesting enough, you pretty corroborated my findings on the Pittsburgh ratchet.
The Seekonk S0-12 Vertical Torque Gauge Screwdriver 0-12 in. ozs will run you about $130 to 148.30 so it’s not the cheapest way to test tools just for fun.
Gearless ratchets were not tested, nor have they ever been harmed during any testing. The one gearless ratchet I have reads about 1 inch ounce which I just tested.
That Williams is exactly like my BluePoint...exact same ratchet... it's a nice smooth ratchet...I like it.. I have most of those ratchets that you have there...
Believe it or not I actually did this test before, with about 14 different brands of ratchets. All 3/8 quick release to keep the test Fair. Nepros came out on top, followed close by Harbor Freights Pittsburgh. The Snap-On 80, or the Kobalt didn't fare too well either for drag. The Craftsmen, thin polish profile did very well. The gearwrench did about the same as the Craftsman. Carlyle ratchet, was about half. I did it by myself last year, because I was pretty curious and I hate drag. There should be more test when it comes to drag on ratchets since that's extremely important in my opinion.
What and how did you measure the back drag? I used inch ounces and I can tell you the forces are pretty dang small but there is definitely an average where things tend to fall.
@@ClientGraphics at the time I was at my friend's shop and we had about 14 bolts in a wall side by side, with all the ratchets placed. I then use a pulley system with pressure scale that my friend help me to design, from parts in from the shop. Basically I would do back clicks compare and compare each one, as it pulled back on the pulley scale. I was doing was just off the cuff so, you're testing method it's probably better. I wish there was a universal way to really do a good scientific tests.
I did the 90t Kobalt ratchet item #337304 Model #85861in the video so you may or may not be surprised by the results. I tried a few homemade testers but it all came back to I still needed to calibrate it for a baseline accuracy or someone else being able to repeat the same test. No one way is best but there are definitely multiple variables that can affect the outcome. It’s so cool to know other people explore and share interest in these times of areas on all levels 👍
Matco uses marvel mystery oil. If you can do the same test with 1/4 ratchets would be awesome, as a professional mechanic, back drag in 1/4 drive is more critical than 3/8 drive
U should totally do a video on click engagement. That’s a huge one when in tight quarters. I’ve seen plenty of 72 tooth quality ratchets click and grab in less space than a 120. I have some snap on and some cheaper brands that seem to do better as they age.
The mechanism did feel funky at first but about half a year ago I took it apart and put super lube in it, and ... It still feel like it's gonna break, but it doesn't lol, and the one reason it's my go to is because it is very very slim
I've been hearing a lot of raving about a couple japanese brands of ratchets, koken and nepros. Both are said to be as good or better than snap-on, with virtually 0 backdrag. I'd love to see these claims put to the test and compared to other ratchets if you could get your hands on some of those!
MrSubaru1387 Yes the zeal series are light but I think their standard 24t is as light or lighter. I ordered one of the standard ratchets with the knurled grip to see.
MrSubaru1387 thanks for your Japanese tool haul videos. I didn’t know you could order from Amazon japan. I have been going through Franks tools, hes cheap but not a huge selection.
I’m not sure how much difference there really would be that the user of the tool would humanly be able to notice. A gearless ratchet tests around .5 - 1 inch ounce and thats because the user can’t hold a prefect 90° causing fluctuations in a fastener or nut to bind and drag threads. I’d rather do a 1/4 drive test with maybe a 2725Z or something similar.
Thank you for doing this, I was really curious about this. Definitely cool that you saw a direct relationship with the ratchet/pawl type. I just bought a Crescent 60T ratchet and it is quite nice, but not as smooth as others. I took it apart and used some ATF fluid to lube it up, wiped off the excess and worked it a bit. As your results show for the Snap-on, it definitely helped. That being said, I think a Pittsburgh Pro is in the future for me. It might not have the holding capacity (I'll have to review the other vids again) but some times you need to have an ultra low drag to get off the pesky fastener that is impossibly difficult to use your fingers to get to. I read about how "butter smooth" the snap-ons were, it was interesting to see the relatively poor results. It was also interesting to see the ratchets that had a stable back drag rating instead of the others that bound up, then released a lot of tension, only to be bound up again.
The Snap-on results surprised me a little but I don’t own any of them. Everything else was what relatively where I thought they would be. HF ratchets are such a great value, strength, durability, and smoothness. Obviously they aren’t the best but they have a place in my toolbox. I didn’t know about the superlube oil, I have to get some of that! Been using 3 in 1 oil or superlube grease.
""HF ratchets are such a great value, strength, durability, and smoothness."" Hmmm Engrish is my third language . My tranducificator says = best. Odd ;-)~ I guess the only thing they fault is a fat boy with a truck who delivers and finances ? ;-)~
This is exactly why I wish that more companies (like ICON) used o rings kinda like how snap on has been to seal the internal gearing. It Keep in the lubricant, keeps out the debris. also the o rings helps keep the anvil from wiggling about. the Pittsburgh pro ones do have exceptional anvil slop. Mostly Because their washers are only 1/3 - 1/2 as thick as they should be. So usually the hearing gets off angle. And we only a half of the teeth are actually in proper mesh. So it’s possible that my Pittsburgh Pro ratchet may hold up to more Tq than one just grabbed off of the shelf. (3 washers)
+1 for the Pittsburgh pro on back drag, but that comes at a price since the selector tends to move. My GearWrench 84T is also great on back drag and very strong.
Slip a small rubber band or O-ring over the selector switch so it's sandwiched between the switch and the ratchet head to keep it from moving so easily...it works well for me...
Great video just don't know how it helps when buying a ratchet. I mean 90 percent of the time I'm using an electric ratchet or impact the only time I grab a ratchet is to break something lose or to really tighten it.
I'm just spitballing here but I feel like some of the cheaper ratchets have less backdrag is due to there being less engagement of the pawls with the teeth of the ratchet so there is less force required to move it but that could also result in less overall strength but I could be wrong
@@billlee1724 I agree I just thought of it because I know for a fact that the snap on and mac ratchets have much bigger dual pawls than what was shown in his video when he was talking about the Pittsburgh which means they engage more of the drive gear at one time and there would logically be a correlation there in the amount of force required to move the gear
Curious of what a gearless ratchet would do, in theory they should have the lowest back-drag. I know a handful of companies have them, but I'm not sure how many OEMs/ODMs make them, so there's possibly a few varying designs out there.
In the real world it doesn't amount to anything. Snap on and matco have the best internals and the least amount of back lash which is way more important.
its the duel paw design, It always has 7 teeth under spring tension engaged with the 80 tooth drive. Also Snap-on has wider paws that engage the who with of the drive to reduce risk of slippage. Yes im a Snap-On dealer and I would double down and say your knuckles safety is worth it.
You know what ratchet I haven't seen you test is the friction type / gearless ratchets that titan makes 18202 I use a 1/4 one on blend door motors . I'm sure other companies make them too . As long as your talking smooth .
@@ClientGraphics I ment just those type of ratchets in a group test I'm sure there's more then colbat . I do find the test results interesting but also find real world results don't always yeild your results especially tools that are used appropriately . I get it these are test constructed to be consistent but lets say a 300lb guy is hanging from.a ratchet vs a 100lb guy who's ratchet is going to last longer ? That 30olb guy is going to say man that ratchet was smooth I dint feel a thing when it broke .... I could have farted sideways and broke that .
Milwaukee makes a super smooth ratchet. And kTS . Also GW120xp and the SATA120xp -same ratchet are also super smooth. As well as the 84 and 90tooth GW.
I own the Pittsburgh pro low profile ratchet and it is a wonderful tool only paid 13 bucks for it on sale and I've yet to find a ratchet that performs better than that one
@@Smillster I'd love to see the wera tested, I've had my eye on one of those zyklops because I love roto ratchets. I think some of those ones like maybe the hazet, are made with more of a focus on being extremely stout, with less attention to backdrag
I'd love to test my old MAC M3R flex head 1/4" drive. The head wobbles a bit, but I'm not gonna put 50 ft./lbs. of torque on it either. I could likely sneeze on the square drive and it might move a click or two.....lol. I think I have an old Snappy inch ounce dial torque unit somewhere in the snappy collection chest. A 40 year old rat and a new one would be comparing apples to oranges though.....
This was great! I like on your other tool test videos when you put all the test results side by side from best to worse at the end of testing. Will you do a test on back drag for ratcheting screwdrivers?
I go for how quiet the ratchet is. I have all brands. Quietest i have is Carlyle. Yes i mixed with super lube and red grease. Cant even hardly hear it. Crsftsman gun metal 120 and gearwrench 120xp are my top notch! Remember dont mix grease too thick because pawls will stick.
I haven't oiled my ratchets in many years... luckily I only use them daily for a profession. Personally I like the gear wrench xp, but it is hard to beat the snapon ratchets after many years of abuse and zero maintenance ever.
Basically all this is measuring is the stiffness of the spring responsible for keeping the pawl in contact with the anvil wheel and for the most part is completely inconsequential in the real world. Also, I wouldn't necessarily equate a lower back drag number with smoothness. I feel like smoothness is more so related to the the quality, cut, and meshing of the pawl and anvil wheel teeth. A low back drag number just means a minuscule amount less force is needed to reach the next rotation point on a fastener. Keep the reviews coming, maybe try to work on a bolt extractor or flex head ratcheting wrench video.
Hello again Chris After a brief search on the internet, there are a lot products calling itself "Super Lube". Which one is the best for keeping my tools working? Thank you for another Great Video
super lube 51004 synthetic oil for the fine tooth ratchets just a few drops and the other for coarse tooth or what Snap on uses super lube 21030 synthetic grease
Good ratchets but it's warrenty problems for me they either want a receipt or I have to travel out of my way to get it warrentied . My biggest gearwrench issue is 1/4 drive sockets very thin and Crack 8mm and 10mm sometimes 12mm . Went to icon sockets they don't break but a little soft as they tend to flare out but harbor freight 15min away no questions asked
Curious as to what this means when using it. Are we talking about it not turning the bolt backwards from the desired direction? Are we talking fatigue? Why is this important?
I have no clue as to why Taiwanese tool manufacturers think a higher tooth count will make a better ratchet. It doesn't, but inexperienced buyers will see 120 and think it's better than 72 or 80. 80 is the highest I will ever need. I mean I still use an 18 tooth Snap-on. Interestingly enough those Stanley ratchets are the same ones that were rebranded and put in the MAC Jesse James sets. Also, the Williams ratchet you have is identical to the Blue-Point BPRFR938 it's just rebranded. As far as overseas made ratchets they're probably some of the better-made ones available. Those Matco ratchets you have there are probably the best of the bunch though. I would say the Snap-on are a close second.
We need a chart that has back-drag, slop, and breaking strength. I'm sure there's some trade-offs.
This would be very useful
Snap On, FHL80 not lubricated 8.0-9.0
Snap On, FHRX80A not lubricated 7.5-8.0
Snap On, FHRX80A lubricated 5.5-6.0
Motivx Tools, 144 positions 3.0-3.5
Matco BFR158LFB 6.0-6.5
Matco BFR118M 4.0-4.5
Tekton SRH01108 6.0-6.5
Tekton SRH11108 5.0
MAC Tools Axis XR1390LK 6.5
Cornwell RF72A 5.0-6.0
Craftsman 82-011 GM, 120 positions 6.0-8.0 inconsistant
Craftsman 44815 , 46 tooth 7.0
Stanley 89-818B 4.0
Harbor Freight Pittsburg item 62328,64937 2.0
Harbor Freight Pittsburg Composite 62618 3.0-4.0
Harbor Freight Icon 56193, 90 tooth 5.0-6.0
Kobalt Tools 90T Flex Head 3.0-4.0
Capri Tools, 72 tooth 4.0-4.5
NAPA Carlyle CHT R38L90, 90 tooth 4.0-4.5
Cobra Steelman Pro 9.0-10.0 Not smooth
Ares Hand Tools , 90 tooth item 42002 3.5
Gearwrench 90T 4.5-5.0
Gearwrench 120XP 5.0-6.0
Williams 36T 4.0
Milwaukee 90T 4.0-5.0
SK Tools 36T, item 45170 6.0
Wright Tools 3428 5.0-6.0
Husky Tools 100 position 5.0-6.0
What breakin ? Break over 150 ? None
Break in the paws of a dolt ? All...mostly anvil failure above 200(qr dies first) or joint fail in flexers
How about a breaker bar test to see what brands anvil fails earliest ?
Google breaker bar. They still make them. I still use them daily. Noop. I don't "flat rate".
I'm a tech, not a parts changer. I have the thirty to fifty year old ratchets still functioning well to show for it
My 5249 has been spinning in 4 countries and a dozen states since....1953 or so. Never had a kit.
Finally! Someone has a scientific way of proving then”smoothness” of ratchets, all these tools reviews spinning the ratchet by hand doesn’t prove the backlash grabbing in tight spots! Love my 120xp ratchets and snap-on 80 (the Snap-on suck when they are new, but they break in nicely 👍)..... in comparison I’ve had 120xp gearwrench spline wrenches, absolutely suck, all the backlash and back drag equate to my ATD platinum 72 tooth wrenches... awesome video!
The SK round head is my favorite and it is my go to ratchet in the tool drawer
This is really interesting because from personal feel, snap on is the best FEELING ratchet. I’ve tried most of these being tested and none feel as good to use. I do highly agree with breaking them in, there’s a big difference in feel once broken in.
Feel is all really subjective, but if it doesn't feel good in the hand you won't use it which makes it worthless. Getting things to wear nicely and get through the break-in period is key. Hopefully I was able to demo that point in the video both with the Snap On and Matco tools.
Snap started doing real handles ? Ya know. Like Knurled !
The winner ain't in the bunch. It's Ko-ken's Z-Series ratchets, hands down.
It could be as it has a similar spring pawl design with less teeth on the pawls. It’s all about if it has less spring tension.
yep i agree hands down the ko-ken would've taken the crown in this test.
I love koken ratchets
mr subaru and clientgraphics need to get together to put this debate to rest!
either mrsubaru needs to loan some of his koken ratchets to clientgraphics for testing, or clientgraphics needs to lend out the inch-ounce torque wrench to mrsubaru for testing. would make a good video!
Ko-ken 3726Z 72T only sold thru palmec (Ko-ken USA) It's 7" long flex non-locking with dedent when it's straight. A sprung ball holds it in the position you put it.
Not quick release. 72 tooth.
I got one this week. They're 3/8 only so far. Just released this January. Also available in 11" length as well.
It is so very smooth. Like winding a watch! No play at all. Yet it feels really strong and beefy. I wouldn't hesitate to use a cheater pipe on it. The finish and chrome are impeccable.
Backdrag is very light. Lighter than my 1/4" Snap-On. Plus, what looks like a quick release button on the back is actually the back of the gearwheel so you can put your thumb on it and stop any backdrag.
Palmec website is cumbersome. I don't know about warranty My ratchet was about $100 shipped.
The Steelman Pro Cobra ratchet is rough because it isnt factory lubed. I found that adding Singers Machining oil into the ratchet helps make it alittle more smooth. Great job on the video either way!
If you ever redo this test, I'd love to send my Koken made-in-Japan ratchet for a loaner. It's obscenely low backdrag compared to any of the other ratchets in my collection. I think it's only a 36T though so the swing-arc is huge but holy hell it'll ratchet on a bolt that is completely unthreaded.
LOL.I always said they'd spin in a strong wind.
I didn't really get the importance of back drag until I read your comment. I always wonder why a lot of people are concern about it lol. TIL.
Completely agree, Koken ratchets are very, very smooth, even with having what seem by current standards to have very low tooth counts. Just goes to show that tooth count isn't the be-all and end-all of ratchet quality.
Thanks I'm going to get one!
I find it works best to use grease on my coarse tooth ratchets, and oil on my fine tooth ratchets.
Very true.
OMG ! Yes! I found the exact same thing. I own 20 ratchets mostly Matco but I recently purchased a 1/4 Pittsburg pro with the comfort grip and I would be surprised if it was over 1in oz of backdraft. It's mind boggling. Cheap springs for the win !!!
When i clean my snap on and mac ratchets i mix super lube grease with the oil to get that perfect consistency. It works really well because the oil by it's self doesn't last long enough, being so thin it leaks out over time. And grease by its self is just a little to thick. Using both keeps the ratchet quite, smooth, & last the longest.
Great tool tip👍🏻
Chris I have a few snap on ratchets that are 10-12 years old that have turned probably nothing short of a million times. Just tested the back drag and it registered in less than one inoz
Well. Strap -On uses SUPER lube !!!! Because. They sell the crap. The Wright factory says light oil only.Ditto SK and
th-cam.com/video/EoYJJj6_Lyk/w-d-xo.html
That gunmetal craftsman looks SO GOOD though!
I've used synthetic grease, synthetc ATF mixed 50/50 with 0w20 synthetic oil, and dry lubes over the years on ratchets. Simplest method is just a dose of light machine oil (which is generally mineral oil). I think Super Lube machine oil is either mineral oil or silicon oil with a wear additive so probably one of the best choices.
Definitely the way to go when it's cold.
The lightest backdrag ratchet I have is a Napa Evercraft quick release pear head. It's 24 tooth and appears to be based off of the old Proto mechanism. It's similar to the 72 tooth Pittsburgh Pro ratchets, but the levers are square on the end with no teeth. It seems lighter than my Pittsburgh Pro composite, which is very light already.
I like the Carlyle over my others. Capri a close second but no locking feature on the flex head. Great video
There ok actually there all pretty good these days it's more about what you can afford and a warranty the manufacturer will stand behind. Turn over time is a big plus too Noone wants to wait 6 months to get a new ratchet .
@@kevinfrye1822 Gearwrench has made warranty process quick and simple replacinging your tool in less than a week.
@@jeremyruff7961 takes longer then a week at least for one 8mm that is. Then again I've only went that route once since the matco dealer started warrenty them for me . My go to sockets are still snap on but I've owned them for the last 30 years long before any of these companies made a comparable tool . I still have my great new Britain wrenches Bonney and armstrong among others and don't get me wrong I have any other import brands as well . As a matter of fact whole impact set is jobsite from tractor supply and lasted a few years now .not because there the best because I can read them ... I'm old and blind now lol .anyways there's allot good tools out there now compared to my 30 year old snap that gets warranty no questions asked .
Lubricant makes a BIG difference in ratchet friction aka "back-drag". Grease in ratchet mechanism can prevent pawl to gear engagement causing the ratchet to slip then shearing off a ratchet gear tooth. Ideal oil for ratchets is synthetic low viscosity motor oil. There is little if any advantage to that "Super Lube" stuff for ratchet mechanism. It does contain teflon which can cause deposits at the bottom of the ratchet gear and pawl resulting in slippage, just like grease.
Nicely done. Another important variable is how far a ratchet twists before the first tooth click. Often the first tooth angle of twist is substantially different (better or worse) than the tooth count packaging claim (4deg, 5deg etc). I look forward to seeing you test that on your lovely collection.
I actually bought a digital angle finder months ago. It’s on the list of things to do👌🏻
@@ClientGraphics you just got yourself a future view.
I have made it a standard to grease every new ratchet I buy with Super Lube grease so I know for sure that it is greased. Experience has learned that almost all ratchets are shipped without grease nowadays. This is part down to production costs AND part because of shipping regulations.
Some of the smoothest rachets I have are Stanley MicroTough (Hi Five/New Tools design) ratchets. A pain to grease but so worth it!
Once I returned 3 Proxxon (1/4, 3/8 and 1/2) socket sets because of the backdrag they had in ALL of the ratchets. The backdrag was and is completely caused by the spring that's holding the ratchet (round head design) together. Without that spring they are smooth as butter...
They were replaced with Taiwan made Bahco S-serie socket sets. The included ratchets have a lot of backlash and are also a pain to grease because of the internals but so smooth afterwards...
When your measuring this little of an amount, the grease and amount of it, will definitely change things. Crazy to see it in action and not just in theory
Grease plays a big part in resistance. Snap on uses a silicone compound or dielectric grease to rebuild there ratchets and takes a break in period for it to function effectively. I remove the grease or use as little as possible . Oil works good as well but sealed ratchets with oring tend to distort or swell as there not Viton. Unsealed ratchets I use marvel mystery oil to soak them in or wd40 especially if I use them to bleed brakes . I also use royal purple or even what Chris mentioned in his video.
Kevin Frye yeah your definitely over thinking it lol. Grease is grease oil is oil for the most part, long as there’s something in there.. it’s just a ratchet at the end of the day. Not a complex gear set that runs constantly lol
@@goinhot9133 not complex but if you bleed brakes with a non sealed ratchet and it gets inside it will rust . That is why I soak my ratchets . I also don't like rebuilt ratchets as I said my snap on dealer likes to pack the greasei in there and does not ratchet as easy so I remove most of it I'm not over thinking it simple fact is non sealed ratchets will fill with contamination if not cleaned soaked oiled or greased . It doesn't have to be brake fluid I've dropped a ratchet or two in a cooling drain pan a time or two as well and oil or grease makes them wheel go around not rust .
I'm glad you tested the Kobalt, I just picked one of those up today. It seems nice but my one gripe is that there seems to be a lot of slop between the forward and reverse directions, before it actually catches. The 90T ratcheting mechanism allows for a very low swing arm between each click, but when you initially reverse from the forward direction to reverse there's easily at least 5+ clicks worth of slop before it engages. so there may be only 4 degrees of swing before each click, but you've got to reverse it by like 20 degrees to get that first click.
dummkompf that’s exactly why teeth count don’t matter to me if there’s so much slop
The Pittsburgh ratchets really changed how I look at tools. And I pick my kobalt Stanley and hobo freight rachets before my snap on, Williams, SK, Mac proto stuff... I've never had any problems and they are way smoother and I don't cringe and cry everytime one falls on the floor from five feet up
Dude great video- I love how you showcased nearly every brand!!! I love German tools also
I think this control group is a bit flawed. To me, the snapon seems like the best in terms of back drag in my own use. However- I noticed that you use the bigger 3/8 snap ons which I have noticed carry more back drag. You should try out a TLLF72 with a 3/8 kit. To me, seems like that combination has the least drag (compared to Pittsburgh pro, I have that one as well).
Snap-on the best? You might want to give some German brands a try. I own ratchets from Hazet, Stahlwille, Snap-on and Gedore, and I'm quite sure all of them have noticably less back drag than the Snap-on Dual 80's. The Gedore U-20's blows everything out of the water IME, even the more "premium" German brands.
(in Germany, Stahlwille and Hazet are known as their Snap-on, with Gedore just a bit behind but not by much, probably a Wright, Proto, Williams equivalent. Just not shiny, they don't like shiny tools in Germany)
Justin B. I was referring strictly to the applied ratchet brands in the said video. I do agree that hazet has some nice tools! Edit: I have some.
@@csboi only problem is warranty. Not gonna ship, wait, email, call. Nope. I need a new ratchet, snap on comes Friday morning. Done deal. If it’s am emergency he will make a special trip. That to me is worth is weight in gold.
Headed to harbor freight to pick these up. My 1/4" craftsmen ratchet drives me nuts Every time I use it. Need two hands to get a fastener in.
To me minimum back drag is far more important than the high tooth count. My favorites are the old Proto pear heads. The mechanism is similar to the Pitsburg Pro with ultra low back drag.There is also minimal back lash.
PLEASE try Koken. Best ratchet for back drag, and it's not even close. Japan makes some high quality tools.
That's why Ko-ken did what he did.He took the Pl^mb-Proto and did what Grumpy Jenkins did to a small block Chevrolet to get 500 HP
Ko-ken amounts, basically, to a balanced and blueprinted Proto-type pearhead.
Man good tool. I didn't know they made something like this. I wish I would have known this existed back then. Interesting enough, you pretty corroborated my findings on the Pittsburgh ratchet.
The Seekonk S0-12 Vertical Torque Gauge Screwdriver 0-12 in. ozs will run you about $130 to 148.30 so it’s not the cheapest way to test tools just for fun.
@@ClientGraphics True, true. But sometimes I find expense doesn't trump knowledge. For me, I'll pay the money just for the love of the science. 😏
Love my gear wrench 3/8 120 tooth soft grip use it for everything!
Me my friend. 😎
I love my Matco 88s. Snap on is smoother, but I also have to consider slim profile, etc.
I've been so happy with my new mac 3/8 for that exact reason
Great video! I don't think anyone else has thought up such test.. 🤔
Great innovation from Chris. I think I know which one it is. It may surprise people
Gearless ratchets were not tested, nor have they ever been harmed during any testing. The one gearless ratchet I have reads about 1 inch ounce which I just tested.
Numbers don't lie thanks Chris! I'm definitely surprise by the brands outcome with the least back drag.
Sometimes the numbers make you feel really good and sometime we’ll they can’t be unseen. They are what they are.
That Williams is exactly like my BluePoint...exact same ratchet... it's a nice smooth ratchet...I like it..
I have most of those ratchets that you have there...
Believe it or not I actually did this test before, with about 14 different brands of ratchets. All 3/8 quick release to keep the test Fair. Nepros came out on top, followed close by Harbor Freights Pittsburgh. The Snap-On 80, or the Kobalt didn't fare too well either for drag. The Craftsmen, thin polish profile did very well. The gearwrench did about the same as the Craftsman. Carlyle ratchet, was about half. I did it by myself last year, because I was pretty curious and I hate drag. There should be more test when it comes to drag on ratchets since that's extremely important in my opinion.
What and how did you measure the back drag? I used inch ounces and I can tell you the forces are pretty dang small but there is definitely an average where things tend to fall.
I don’t have a Nepros to test, sorry. My Craftsman 60 tooth USA thin profile 44995 tested out around 5 inch ounces.
@@ClientGraphics at the time I was at my friend's shop and we had about 14 bolts in a wall side by side, with all the ratchets placed. I then use a pulley system with pressure scale that my friend help me to design, from parts in from the shop. Basically I would do back clicks compare and compare each one, as it pulled back on the pulley scale. I was doing was just off the cuff so, you're testing method it's probably better. I wish there was a universal way to really do a good scientific tests.
@@ClientGraphics I believe mine was the Kobalt 72 gear 87697
I did the 90t Kobalt ratchet item #337304 Model #85861in the video so you may or may not be surprised by the results. I tried a few homemade testers but it all came back to I still needed to calibrate it for a baseline accuracy or someone else being able to repeat the same test. No one way is best but there are definitely multiple variables that can affect the outcome. It’s so cool to know other people explore and share interest in these times of areas on all levels 👍
Matco uses marvel mystery oil. If you can do the same test with 1/4 ratchets would be awesome, as a professional mechanic, back drag in 1/4 drive is more critical than 3/8 drive
I love my Cornwell hard handle 1/4". Bought it around 2003 and it is my go to in 1/4" ratchets.
U should totally do a video on click engagement. That’s a huge one when in tight quarters. I’ve seen plenty of 72 tooth quality ratchets click and grab in less space than a 120. I have some snap on and some cheaper brands that seem to do better as they age.
The 1/4 Flex head Pittsburgh professional is the smoothest I've ever had
I agree but the ratcheting mechanism feels kinda “chinesy” if you know what I mean.
Same here. So smooth. I love that ratchet. For $15 with coupon and lifetime warranty you can't lose.
The mechanism did feel funky at first but about half a year ago I took it apart and put super lube in it, and ... It still feel like it's gonna break, but it doesn't lol, and the one reason it's my go to is because it is very very slim
@@josefelix4152 -
I've been hearing a lot of raving about a couple japanese brands of ratchets, koken and nepros. Both are said to be as good or better than snap-on, with virtually 0 backdrag. I'd love to see these claims put to the test and compared to other ratchets if you could get your hands on some of those!
I wish a koken was included, thats they’re claim to fame. Good cross section of common brands. Good job!
Ko-ken Z-Series definitely is far beyond anything in this video.
MrSubaru1387 Yes the zeal series are light but I think their standard 24t is as light or lighter. I ordered one of the standard ratchets with the knurled grip to see.
MrSubaru1387 thanks for your Japanese tool haul videos. I didn’t know you could order from Amazon japan. I have been going through Franks tools, hes cheap but not a huge selection.
@@pablopopovich1762 you're welcome. Stay tuned. Another Japanese tool haul was delivered yesterday. Video coming sson. More Ko-ken and TONE.
I’m not sure how much difference there really would be that the user of the tool would humanly be able to notice. A gearless ratchet tests around .5 - 1 inch ounce and thats because the user can’t hold a prefect 90° causing fluctuations in a fastener or nut to bind and drag threads. I’d rather do a 1/4 drive test with maybe a 2725Z or something similar.
Thank you for doing this, I was really curious about this. Definitely cool that you saw a direct relationship with the ratchet/pawl type. I just bought a Crescent 60T ratchet and it is quite nice, but not as smooth as others. I took it apart and used some ATF fluid to lube it up, wiped off the excess and worked it a bit. As your results show for the Snap-on, it definitely helped. That being said, I think a Pittsburgh Pro is in the future for me. It might not have the holding capacity (I'll have to review the other vids again) but some times you need to have an ultra low drag to get off the pesky fastener that is impossibly difficult to use your fingers to get to. I read about how "butter smooth" the snap-ons were, it was interesting to see the relatively poor results. It was also interesting to see the ratchets that had a stable back drag rating instead of the others that bound up, then released a lot of tension, only to be bound up again.
U should seriously try Vaseline instead of a fluid oil. U well be amazed
Can you get Japanese ratchets like Koken and Nepros and test their strength and smoothness?
I've been told the Snap-On has more teeth engagement than most ratchets as well for added strength. Wondering if that makes it stiffer as well.
Ratchets with lots of teeth often have dual pawls. Overcoming them will probably cause more backdrag.
*ClientGraphics* Love it !!
ClientGraphics.... Cool video. Thanks for taking the time to do it and sharing it.. I like the thumbs down thing you did there, that was funny.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks buddy!
The Snap-on results surprised me a little but I don’t own any of them. Everything else was what relatively where I thought they would be. HF ratchets are such a great value, strength, durability, and smoothness. Obviously they aren’t the best but they have a place in my toolbox.
I didn’t know about the superlube oil, I have to get some of that! Been using 3 in 1 oil or superlube grease.
""HF ratchets are such a great value, strength, durability, and smoothness."" Hmmm Engrish is my third language . My tranducificator says = best. Odd ;-)~ I guess the only thing they fault is a fat boy with a truck who delivers and finances ? ;-)~
Overall good testing in this video but the video would be 10x more useful if you included a summary chart/graph like on Project Farm videos.
I died when you pull out the drill and say now we're just gonna burn this in a little bit.
This is exactly why I wish that more companies (like ICON) used o rings kinda like how snap on has been to seal the internal gearing. It Keep in the lubricant, keeps out the debris.
also the o rings helps keep the anvil from wiggling about.
the Pittsburgh pro ones do have exceptional anvil slop. Mostly Because their washers are only 1/3 - 1/2 as thick as they should be. So usually the hearing gets off angle. And we only a half of the teeth are actually in proper mesh.
So it’s possible that my Pittsburgh Pro ratchet may hold up to more Tq than one just grabbed off of the shelf.
(3 washers)
I like the snap on just because it don’t switch directions when ratching
+1 for the Pittsburgh pro on back drag, but that comes at a price since the selector tends to move. My GearWrench 84T is also great on back drag and very strong.
Slip a small rubber band or O-ring over the selector switch so it's sandwiched between the switch and the ratchet head to keep it from moving so easily...it works well for me...
Back in the day, we used ATF to lubricate the ratchet gears. Wonder what the "pull" difference is between ATF and synthetic oil?
Great video just don't know how it helps when buying a ratchet. I mean 90 percent of the time I'm using an electric ratchet or impact the only time I grab a ratchet is to break something lose or to really tighten it.
I wanna disagree but this is 100% correct😂
I'm just spitballing here but I feel like some of the cheaper ratchets have less backdrag is due to there being less engagement of the pawls with the teeth of the ratchet so there is less force required to move it but that could also result in less overall strength but I could be wrong
Was gonna comment the exact thing, Pittsburgh’s have the least backdrag because the tolerances are all to small
@@billlee1724 I agree I just thought of it because I know for a fact that the snap on and mac ratchets have much bigger dual pawls than what was shown in his video when he was talking about the Pittsburgh which means they engage more of the drive gear at one time and there would logically be a correlation there in the amount of force required to move the gear
Blaze Box oh yea I see what ya mean they also have the most engagement definitely
Curious of what a gearless ratchet would do, in theory they should have the lowest back-drag. I know a handful of companies have them, but I'm not sure how many OEMs/ODMs make them, so there's possibly a few varying designs out there.
Snap on 8
Snap on locking flex 8
Matco locking flex 6
Matco 4
Tekton 6
Tekton quick release 5
Mac locking flex 6.5
Cornwell 5
Craftsman 120 6
Craftsman USA 36 7
Stanley 4
Pittsburg 2
Icon 5
Kobalt 90 3
Capri 72 4
Carlyle 90 4
Cobra Pro 9
Ares 90 3.5
Gearwrench 90 5
Gearwrench 120 6
Williams 36 4
Milwaukee 4
Sk 36 6
Wright flex 5
Husky 100t 5
Thank you. P
Chris great video! Why does TH-cam continue to unsubscribe me or take off notifications?
I’m Japanese
Ko-ken zeal 3725z is very useful
Smoothest back drag
Hmmm. I’ve always found snap on ratchets to be glass smooth. I’m quite disappointed they gave such high results.
In the real world it doesn't amount to anything. Snap on and matco have the best internals and the least amount of back lash which is way more important.
its the duel paw design, It always has 7 teeth under spring tension engaged with the 80 tooth drive. Also Snap-on has wider paws that engage the who with of the drive to reduce risk of slippage. Yes im a Snap-On dealer and I would double down and say your knuckles safety is worth it.
koken makes the best quality hand tools ive ever used
Awesome Video as always my friend!!! 😎
Fantastic content 👌 👏 👍
Damn I was wrong. I have only a couple Snap-On Dual 80's and they feel the best to me but, the numbers don't lie. boys!
You know what ratchet I haven't seen you test is the friction type / gearless ratchets that titan makes 18202 I use a 1/4 one on blend door motors . I'm sure other companies make them too . As long as your talking smooth .
I tested a gearless Kobalt 3/8” and it was 1 inch ounce I posted it on Instagram in the teaser video to this at the very end.
@@ClientGraphics I ment just those type of ratchets in a group test I'm sure there's more then colbat . I do find the test results interesting but also find real world results don't always yeild your results especially tools that are used appropriately . I get it these are test constructed to be consistent but lets say a 300lb guy is hanging from.a ratchet vs a 100lb guy who's ratchet is going to last longer ? That 30olb guy is going to say man that ratchet was smooth I dint feel a thing when it broke .... I could have farted sideways and broke that .
Mac axis definitely have the smoothest backdrag
It is a smooth ratchet, however I probably need to break-in the one’s I have more to make them the smoothest they can be😉
Cps, rite. Milwaukee is the smoothest. I have all. Milwaukee wins homy
What up CP
CP!
Sorry CP, Ko-ken's Z-Series is far beyond anything else I've used, in terms of back drag.
I have that Carlyle ratchet. It’s become
My go to. Smoother than my Marcos and lighter back drag than my snap on
Hi client graphic, good test. I suggest you to include japanese brands like ktc nepros or koken.
Milwaukee makes a super smooth ratchet. And kTS . Also GW120xp and the SATA120xp -same ratchet are also super smooth. As well as the 84 and 90tooth GW.
Anyone have a summary table of the results?
I own the Pittsburgh pro low profile ratchet and it is a wonderful tool only paid 13 bucks for it on sale and I've yet to find a ratchet that performs better than that one
Fantastic video thank you !
Appreciate you watching and commenting. It is definitely a video that no one else has done.
Curious how these results compare to some of the German brands like Wera, Stahlwille, Gedore, and Hazet
A new Hazet 8816p tested out at 8 inch ounces 😉
I was thinking the same. I have a wera zyklop round head ratchet and I feel like it's the smoothest that I own.
@@Smillster I'd love to see the wera tested, I've had my eye on one of those zyklops because I love roto ratchets. I think some of those ones like maybe the hazet, are made with more of a focus on being extremely stout, with less attention to backdrag
The Germans were the slowest to move to fine tooth gears
@@husq2100 Probably because they need so many specialty tools to fix their cars they didn't have time to make fine tooth gears.
Does Craftsman still honor the Life Time Warranty on their tools? Awesome video thanks for sharing.
Yes they do, I have taken back sockets to ace hardware and returned a ratchet for a coworker at Lowes.
I use Superloob on all my ratcheting tools as well
Super Lube with PTFE added, or without? They have two versions.
good video, i have some kobalt ratchets and they are very smooth and they work great
As long as they work, that’s the most important thing!
I'd love to test my old MAC M3R flex head 1/4" drive. The head wobbles a bit, but I'm not gonna put 50 ft./lbs. of torque on it either. I could likely sneeze on the square drive and it might move a click or two.....lol. I think I have an old Snappy inch ounce dial torque unit somewhere in the snappy collection chest. A 40 year old rat and a new one would be comparing apples to oranges though.....
I have the wright ratchet and they don’t come oiled as they say they should but once you oil them they become BUTTER smooth
This was great! I like on your other tool test videos when you put all the test results side by side from best to worse at the end of testing. Will you do a test on back drag for ratcheting screwdrivers?
Yea those snap on ratchets back drag be killing me with the back drag. M go have to try the oil now
I go for how quiet the ratchet is. I have all brands. Quietest i have is Carlyle. Yes i mixed with super lube and red grease. Cant even hardly hear it. Crsftsman gun metal 120 and gearwrench 120xp are my top notch! Remember dont mix grease too thick because pawls will stick.
I have most of these ratchets except for the Carlyle. Should I add one to my box or pass. My usual go-to is my Duralast or Snap-On. I love both lol
You don’t need it but you want it. Once you have it, it’s not life changing. It’s only money...... But seriously put it on your wishlist for Christmas
I haven't oiled my ratchets in many years... luckily I only use them daily for a profession. Personally I like the gear wrench xp, but it is hard to beat the snapon ratchets after many years of abuse and zero maintenance ever.
Wish you had a Koken ratchet, by far the lowest back drag ratchet I've even owned
Koken Z series ratchets I love it
Basically all this is measuring is the stiffness of the spring responsible for keeping the pawl in contact with the anvil wheel and for the most part is completely inconsequential in the real world. Also, I wouldn't necessarily equate a lower back drag number with smoothness. I feel like smoothness is more so related to the the quality, cut, and meshing of the pawl and anvil wheel teeth. A low back drag number just means a minuscule amount less force is needed to reach the next rotation point on a fastener. Keep the reviews coming, maybe try to work on a bolt extractor or flex head ratcheting wrench video.
Have you ever done backdrag on any of these: hazet, stahlwille, gedore, nepros , tone, or ko-ken?
Hello again Chris
After a brief search on the internet, there are a lot products calling itself "Super Lube". Which one is the best for keeping my tools working? Thank you for another Great Video
super lube 51004 synthetic oil for the fine tooth ratchets just a few drops and the other for coarse tooth or what Snap on uses super lube 21030 synthetic grease
Excelente herramienta 👍👍👍👍🤗😁
You should try koken z-eal ratchets
Is there a way to send you tools for testing?
You guys got gray tools in the states?
Sorry, not in my area. Just Gray Pneumatic which is different and mostly impact stuff and made in Taiwan.
I’d like to see Gearwrench get the win
We tested the Gearwrench 90T and the 120XP in the video.
Good ratchets but it's warrenty problems for me they either want a receipt or I have to travel out of my way to get it warrentied . My biggest gearwrench issue is 1/4 drive sockets very thin and Crack 8mm and 10mm sometimes 12mm . Went to icon sockets they don't break but a little soft as they tend to flare out but harbor freight 15min away no questions asked
why no dewalt? ive had good results with there ratchets, sockets and such.
I had to cut it back and can’t test everything. Dewalt tested between 5.0 - 6.0 inch ounces
I understand thanks for the reply 👍
Nice video, thanks!
Curious as to what this means when using it. Are we talking about it not turning the bolt backwards from the desired direction? Are we talking fatigue? Why is this important?
It basically means the friction in the ratchet is greater than the nut and thread so it’s time to switch and use your finger to run it off or on.
Good ole amsoil makes a good lube for them as well use the air tool oil
That Matco at 2:31 is 5 inch ounces, not 4-4.5.
Great review! Thinking I could go harbor freight and get a good ratchet.huge savings over tool truck ,sorry snappy
How do the zyklop weras stack up?
Really love your ratchet collection...... Ratch on 🤙🇺🇲🤙
I have no clue as to why Taiwanese tool manufacturers think a higher tooth count will make a better ratchet. It doesn't, but inexperienced buyers will see 120 and think it's better than 72 or 80. 80 is the highest I will ever need. I mean I still use an 18 tooth Snap-on. Interestingly enough those Stanley ratchets are the same ones that were rebranded and put in the MAC Jesse James sets. Also, the Williams ratchet you have is identical to the Blue-Point BPRFR938 it's just rebranded. As far as overseas made ratchets they're probably some of the better-made ones available. Those Matco ratchets you have there are probably the best of the bunch though. I would say the Snap-on are a close second.
Why did you oil and run the snapon ratchet but didnt do that to the other newer tools?