Suggestion from personal experience: most shutter shock from DSLRs comes from the mirror flapping up and down. The R6 obviously has no mirror, and the mechanical shutter click is very soft compared to the Canon DSLRs I've used. So you likely won't have to hold down the lens. But see for yourself. The top dial by the thumb controls ISO by default. You can program just about any of the dials for anything. The eye AF can get befuddled by grass and twigs close to the camera. But I've had success with birds in the bush when at least one eye is completely visible. I use AF Case 2 to help retain the eye in focus once locked on, if objects temporarily get in the way.
You need to configure a button for different eye-tracing AF mode, which lets you select a particular subject if there are more than one, but also avoid the misses with the eye-AF only which u r using at the moment (the eye only icon). Also you better remap the buttons (wheels) to suite your shooting style as the defaults are a bit odd. My 3 wheels change Shutter, Aperture and ISO directly, with Exp.Comp assigned to the lens ring (if you have any). My 3 back-buttons switch to 3 different AF modes - AF - single point (with ability to change AF points via DOF button), * - Eye-Tracking specific subject (hard to explain the configuration here, need a proper chat where i can copy/paste screen shots) and the last back button for eye-AF like u have it on the star (the eye only icon). That leaves u Mf-n to program for whatever you like, the Set is also available for programming, and even the Video red button can be programmed to do something else if u not using it directly for video. Also feel free to set Auto-ISO for pictures to 12800, no noise problems if u pass thru DPP or DXO, and 25600 for video. My red video button does 4K/50 video directly, while you can program the video mode dial to shoots 1080/100 fps for slo-mo video or different 4K modes/codecs manual or auto mode. Two video modes is all you can preset on buttons on R6 :( What is important is the * AF mode which gives you a Single Point AF with Eye-Tracking! Then u can aim at the subject you want and press the button to focus on this exact subject and nothing else. It still misses sometimes but its much better than eye-only when u have busy background. There are 3 more possible AF modes (at least) but i got tired of experimenting with complex configurations and left those 3 as my defaults. Tried with 4 buttons for 4 different AF modes but got confused which is which and reverted back to 3 :) You can also mix Front and BB AF if you used to using the shutter button for AF. It makes AF easier in most situations if you assign the single point on the shutter button instead of AF and leave the AF for different eye-tracking mode. You can aim and aquire focus with the shutter single point and eye-track the subject with AF eye-tracking button immediately after but i find it hard to coordinate pressure on both AF buttons together. Feel free to join the FB R5/6 groups for more details and chats/samples/problem-solving. Oh, don't forget to update firmware to 1.7!
I have just bought an R7 cost being the main reason, still getting used to it , as well as wildlife I photograph race cars , I have had some good results, I am using a 300mm usm lens RFs are too expensive for me. Enjoyed watching as always.
I'm using my copy with the 2X teleconverter (Ver. 3) and the 1.4X Teleconverter (Version 2) and the Images are amazingly Tack Sharp......This 500mm lens it's a must have if you shoot sports or wildlife..... and without spending the money similar to a small car when purchasing the version IS III ......On my 1DX MK III , I use the center focus point with the 4 points around the square and man it's hard to miss any shots..... these lenses are so sharp that getting the focus point anywhere from the shoulder up on target, gets every image sharp.
Thanks for sharing this. I agree - the image quality and focus speed of these lenses is excellent. Compared to brand new lenses they are still very good. Only downside is how dam heavy they are!!
Great video and thanks for sharing that link to the Squirrel feeding station. I have the R6 with RF800 which I think are awesome although the RF800 does take some getting used to.
Lovely video love squizzles lol yeah the eye af does struggle with any busy back/foregrounds now and then so def need to have a single spot set up for troublesome areas
Will probably update at some point (R7 looking favourite just now) once my 7D2 eventually dies 🙂 Be interested to see how my Sigma 500mm F4 Sports lens performs with the adaptor.
Hi Paul, great video. I have an R6 and use BBF on the star. Re your tracking/focus issues. What ‘case’ are you using? 2 and 3 snap on very quickly and you can change the sensitivity. ‘Don’t know if I’m telling you something you already know’? Take a look. Cheers Phil
Hi Paul, great video! I have just bought an R6 and am looking forward to using it with my 500mm F4 V1. I saw that you switched off the IS when it was on the tripod, but did you switch off the ibis as well? Thanks
Very good question. I wasn't sure about this. I did a little test - it you have the Lens I.S. OFF and try switch in-camera IBIS ON.. it will tell you to switch the lens I.S, on - so basically, as my subscriber John Drummond said in the comments, they both work together and can't work separately.
Hello and thank you , I’m using sony but I like your clips and learn a lot of you ❤️ may I ask you your head tripod is it good for photography? Or just for video? Thank you so much from Milton Keynes
Thank you. I can improve more yet. The slow mo (100fps) automatically slows it down so no need to edit. Otherwise I often shoot at 50fps then slow it down to 60%.
Hi Paul have you done a video on using a teleconverter with your 500mm prime? I'm wondering as I'm really disappointed with my ptotos using my teleconverter and wondering what your thoughts on this is. Thanks
I have the R5 and have set the shutter button to eye auto focus when this doesn't lock on to where I want (the wrong bird or background) I have set the dof button to spot focus so as long as you hold the button in it focuses with spot until you release button and it reverts back to eye auto focus . Very often when you do this the eye auto focus locks on to the bird you want .seems to be the best way to let the camera do the work .
I have had the R6 for well over a year now and have found the eye auto focus does seem to be less effective when the weather is dull. It definitely does get confused at times, with deer I find it will often focus on the nose, so have mine set up for the dual back button focus the same as you so I can give it a helping hand. I experimented with the top dial in auto iso and AV mode and found that mine was adjusting the iso also, in manual I have it set to adjust aperture, but can't see how you can program the button when in AV.
Set the eye AF to back button leave your regular shutter button default. That way you never have to move your fingers if the back button does not detect the eye or head just let it go and user single point on the regular shutter button. A lot of people use two buttons on the back for the two different types of AF and it makes no sense to me
Hmmm interesting. When i tried out my 500f4 MKI with a R5 it was REALLY bad!. Very slow VERY VERY slow with a 1.4TC low fps white box for the focus coverage was very limited(a lot smaller than the full frame, because of the lens!) But glad you found it alright!? Really you need the 500f4 MKII lens for those R cams!
I’m using a Mk1 IS 500/4 on my R6. I’ve had the R6 for a year, and haven’t used it that much due to a knee injury, but, I have to be honest that I haven’t been blown away with the stills from this combo. Now, this may be user error, I’m still getting used to the settings, but the images looked great on the rear LCD but didn’t hold up to closer scrutiny on a PC. Even though the bird eye AF looked to be locking on, it wasn’t as sharp as I thought it would be. I may have to rent the 100-500RF to compare, which I’d rather not do, the 500/4 is my dream lens, it’s such a special piece of glass, but it’s got to work. I’d be interested in how others are getting on with this set up…………
Would be good to compare with the zoom lens for sure. I am looking at image quality myself at the moment. It's a bit of a mixed bag but there are some variables I need to look at properly. And I've barely shot anything below ISO 1600 yet!
@@PaulMiguelPhotography That sounds like my first impressions, the 1-5 is rated highly by everyone who has it but F7.1@500mm 😳 I just don’t know coming from the original 1-4 which was F5.6@400mm.
@@cerealkiller4248 I have the 500mm f4 mk1 with the R7, and I'm noticing a bit of inconsistency with the AF as well, and a tendency to backfocus at further ranges, despite the AF zone being right on the bird's body or the eye. Doesn't matter if its servo or one-shot.. sometimes it hits, sometimes it doesn't. But if I turn focus bracketing on and set it for 2 shots, the 2nd shot of the bracket is almost always spot on. I still don't understand why, but maybe give that try! (if the R6 has focus bracketing)
I ended up setting my M Fn button to adjust ISO because while you can set one of the dials to adjust ISO - there's no way to change it back to Auto without going back into a menu...
Love your videos I have recently started to shoot wildlife and I am learning a lot from your posts thank you for the content. I have a similar lens the 500mm F4 L lens that I purchased used in excellent condition I cannot get the focus presets to work either on my R5 or my 7d2. Do you use the focus preset on your 500mm lens? Do you have any knowledge if it is even supported ? I would appreciate any insight you may provide, and again thank you for your videos they are very informative.
Okay, on my R5 I use a weird back button set up. I use the control ring on my lens or adapter to select focus points. My shutter button still shoots normally (front button focus) with the currently select focus point. My AF back button is set to tracking mode. I typically leave the control ring setting on single point. So the shutter button will get me close before I back button, or let me force the shot to the single point. So instead of a dual back button, I have a traditional front and secondary back button AF. This means anybody can use my camera normally, but I can quickly use the back button for tracking.
Love it. There are so many ways to configure these cameras now and it's whatever works for your style of shooting. Respect to you for focusing with the shutter button... think you're the first one in this thread so far.. lol! I personally have always preferred shutter button focus. Will see how I get on with this camera before deciding on my preferred method.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography I find that I use the back button eye detect a lot. So I'd say I'm 50/50 on front vs back focus. I was very surprised that I could leave the front working and just went with it.
Loved the video, how cute! Yeah, eye tracking works fantastically well except when it doesn't XD BTW, you preferring using the shutter half press focus got me curious and I just tried something... If you have your regular AF on the shutter button, having the eye-tracking on the star button still works and overrides the regular focus should you choose to use it! Maybe you already found that out, if not it could maybe be worth a try :)
Hi Paul. I also have the 500mm F4L is mark 1 and the is stays on all the time! I hear the mecanical is system working constantly and it stop working only if I turn off the camera or when i switch to the menu. I tried it on a friend’s canon 5D Mark iii and it works normaly, only if I push halfway down the shutter button. Is that normal? Do you have the same problem as me?
I haven't used I.S. with this lens on the R6 I'm afraid. I never used to use it anyway! But I will test it, because it should work with the camera's IBIS to improve everything.
I have R5 and EF 600mm f4 and have the same issue you have. Not sure if they fixed it in the RF mount version. Something with the converter maybe? Seems strange, but works great, so until I find a lot of money for a new RF 600mm it can make all the noise it wants.
The vibration is caused by the lack of stability of the tripod mount that connects the lense to the tripod when tightend . . I have the exact same tripod mount as your using the manfotto videohead mount I have the same issue with my Sigma it's awful . The Mount on the Sigma is tooo short offers zero stability . Even when i fit the baseplate to secure it to the tripod
Great video Paul. I’ve always turned off IS on lens when shooting on a tripod. Does turning off IS on the lens also turn off IBIS on the camera? Thanks!
Great video, but Paul Miguel doing a whole video shooting "tree rats" I never thought I would see that happen 😉Lovely shots you made of the little guys :) Have you tried the FV mode yet?
I think you are being rather disingenuous to the lovely squirrels. Rats are also not so bad individually, there is just so many of them, plus where they go! If we had no sewers then there would be no rats in them?
I’m in the camp of not wanting to let my 1dx go. I’m curious how you find the durability and battery life of the R6? Obviously the battery will drain faster than 1dx, but so you feel confident the R6 will continue working through all the outdoor conditions you will encounter?
Totally understand that feeling. Yes, battery life is considerably worse with the R6, but it's not terrible. That's one potential question mark, durability.. which I took into account. I will see how it goes but definitely will be taking more care to cover it in bad weather.
Hi Paul, I'm following along with interest as went from the 1Dx to the R6, for the same reasons as you last year. I've been using it mostly in messy woodland, for deer, foxes, badgers, squirrels. I find the eye AF is very fast and reliable when the subject is clear in the frame, but in dense woodland with subject small in the frame and partially obscured by cover, it will struggle. I view this as an extreme situation, so just accepted it as me pushing the camera beyond reasonable limits. I also had a few times where it struggled when photographing seals, small in the frame in blowing sand and sea spray, but mostly it was fine. Again, this situation obscured the animal's full shape and partially obscured the eye. Overall - I'm amazed by the animal eye autofocus. I use the AF-on button for focus lock and leave my shutter button on continuous AF all the time. If I need to grab manual focus, the AF-on gives me that. The other wonderful focus tool in the R6 is the zoom button, with manual focus. Interesting that you find the IS not tripod compatible on the 500. I use the 300 2.8 IS mark one and it does work well on a tripod. I thought they were both the same gen. Anyway thanks - keep these video coming. (love Snaizeholm too) Clive
I would agree with you so far about the focusing system. Great focus set up you have by the way. It seems to vary with the I.S. - seems difficult to get a straight answer. Trial and error always best! I'll have plenty to share on this combo Clive. Hopefully will help you too.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Hi Paul, I find myself looking seriously at buying an EF 500mm f4 IS mark one - the same as yours. Are you still happy with it and the R6, or as you experiment; is it good with the 1.4x and 2x? Or as you experiment with the R6, are you thinking that an upgrade to a version ii super tele is in your future? Clive
@@clivebushnell8428 I bought my Canon 500F4 new 15 years ago and it works very well with the 1.4x as well as the 2x. The 2x does noticeably slow down the autofocus though but I have still managed birds in flight with it. Make sure you get a mark 3 extender though, not an older version. I virtually never use the image stabiliser for the same reason Paul said. Also, once you develop a good technique, it is not really necessary. I have just got an R6 mark ii and the autofocus is massively better than my 5D mark 4. Very pleased with it so far.
That dual back button focus thing is brilliant. Would make my life easier for sure.
Excellent video and good photos once again, thank you.
Nice images and footage Paul, and that camera is brilliant 📸
Suggestion from personal experience: most shutter shock from DSLRs comes from the mirror flapping up and down. The R6 obviously has no mirror, and the mechanical shutter click is very soft compared to the Canon DSLRs I've used. So you likely won't have to hold down the lens. But see for yourself.
The top dial by the thumb controls ISO by default. You can program just about any of the dials for anything. The eye AF can get befuddled by grass and twigs close to the camera. But I've had success with birds in the bush when at least one eye is completely visible. I use AF Case 2 to help retain the eye in focus once locked on, if objects temporarily get in the way.
You need to configure a button for different eye-tracing AF mode, which lets you select a particular subject if there are more than one, but also avoid the misses with the eye-AF only which u r using at the moment (the eye only icon). Also you better remap the buttons (wheels) to suite your shooting style as the defaults are a bit odd. My 3 wheels change Shutter, Aperture and ISO directly, with Exp.Comp assigned to the lens ring (if you have any). My 3 back-buttons switch to 3 different AF modes - AF - single point (with ability to change AF points via DOF button), * - Eye-Tracking specific subject (hard to explain the configuration here, need a proper chat where i can copy/paste screen shots) and the last back button for eye-AF like u have it on the star (the eye only icon). That leaves u Mf-n to program for whatever you like, the Set is also available for programming, and even the Video red button can be programmed to do something else if u not using it directly for video. Also feel free to set Auto-ISO for pictures to 12800, no noise problems if u pass thru DPP or DXO, and 25600 for video. My red video button does 4K/50 video directly, while you can program the video mode dial to shoots 1080/100 fps for slo-mo video or different 4K modes/codecs manual or auto mode. Two video modes is all you can preset on buttons on R6 :(
What is important is the * AF mode which gives you a Single Point AF with Eye-Tracking! Then u can aim at the subject you want and press the button to focus on this exact subject and nothing else. It still misses sometimes but its much better than eye-only when u have busy background. There are 3 more possible AF modes (at least) but i got tired of experimenting with complex configurations and left those 3 as my defaults. Tried with 4 buttons for 4 different AF modes but got confused which is which and reverted back to 3 :) You can also mix Front and BB AF if you used to using the shutter button for AF. It makes AF easier in most situations if you assign the single point on the shutter button instead of AF and leave the AF for different eye-tracking mode. You can aim and aquire focus with the shutter single point and eye-track the subject with AF eye-tracking button immediately after but i find it hard to coordinate pressure on both AF buttons together. Feel free to join the FB R5/6 groups for more details and chats/samples/problem-solving. Oh, don't forget to update firmware to 1.7!
Check out Whistling Wings set up for the back button focus, best set up I have seen. 👍
I have just bought an R7 cost being the main reason, still getting used to it , as well as wildlife I photograph race cars , I have had some good results, I am using a 300mm usm lens RFs are too expensive for me. Enjoyed watching as always.
I'm using my copy with the 2X teleconverter (Ver. 3) and the 1.4X Teleconverter (Version 2) and the Images are amazingly Tack Sharp......This 500mm lens it's a must have if you shoot sports or wildlife..... and without spending the money similar to a small car when purchasing the version IS III ......On my 1DX MK III , I use the center focus point with the 4 points around the square and man it's hard to miss any shots..... these lenses are so sharp that getting the focus point anywhere from the shoulder up on target, gets every image sharp.
Thanks for sharing this. I agree - the image quality and focus speed of these lenses is excellent. Compared to brand new lenses they are still very good. Only downside is how dam heavy they are!!
Glad you seem to be enjoying your new camera, it seems to have given you a new lease of life
Cheers Philip. Sometimes it can help - just a change.. and of course it gives me stuff to talk about, lol!
Nice video Paul some lovely images there.
Many thanks. Still getting used to the camera!
Great video and thanks for sharing that link to the Squirrel feeding station. I have the R6 with RF800 which I think are awesome although the RF800 does take some getting used to.
Lovely video love squizzles lol yeah the eye af does struggle with any busy back/foregrounds now and then so def need to have a single spot set up for troublesome areas
I think this is a good method for sure.
Will probably update at some point (R7 looking favourite just now) once my 7D2 eventually dies 🙂 Be interested to see how my Sigma 500mm F4 Sports lens performs with the adaptor.
How many frames per second do you get on mechanical with the old 500?
I can't say for sure yet. I believe it varies, but i can't get full 12 frames per second. I've used mostly electronic shutter, but i will test it out.
Hi Paul, great video. I have an R6 and use BBF on the star. Re your tracking/focus issues. What ‘case’ are you using? 2 and 3 snap on very quickly and you can change the sensitivity. ‘Don’t know if I’m telling you something you already know’? Take a look. Cheers Phil
No problem. Yes, I'm aware of the cases. I will change it if I think it's necessary.
That was fun, thanks mate.
Thanks Jeff.
Hi Paul, great video!
I have just bought an R6 and am looking forward to using it with my 500mm F4 V1. I saw that you switched off the IS when it was on the tripod, but did you switch off the ibis as well?
Thanks
Very good question. I wasn't sure about this. I did a little test - it you have the Lens I.S. OFF and try switch in-camera IBIS ON.. it will tell you to switch the lens I.S, on - so basically, as my subscriber John Drummond said in the comments, they both work together and can't work separately.
Hello and thank you , I’m using sony but I like your clips and learn a lot of you ❤️ may I ask you your head tripod is it good for photography? Or just for video? Thank you so much from Milton Keynes
Thanks. I use this tripod head for my big lens. Stills and video.
Brilliant filming Paul 👌very impressed very smooth and great info 👍are you filming in slow motion or when editing?
Thank you. I can improve more yet. The slow mo (100fps) automatically slows it down so no need to edit. Otherwise I often shoot at 50fps then slow it down to 60%.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Many thanks Paul👍
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Hi Paul have you done a video on using a teleconverter with your 500mm prime? I'm wondering as I'm really disappointed with my ptotos using my teleconverter and wondering what your thoughts on this is. Thanks
I haven't really. But I'm trying it a bit now.. with the R6
I have the R5 and have set the shutter button to eye auto focus when this doesn't lock on to where I want (the wrong bird or background) I have set the dof button to spot focus so as long as you hold the button in it focuses with spot until you release button and it reverts back to eye auto focus . Very often when you do this the eye auto focus locks on to the bird you want .seems to be the best way to let the camera do the work .
Love that set up. Very clever.
Just select the ‘case’ for ignore possible obstacles . Thinks it’s number 2 from memory
I have had the R6 for well over a year now and have found the eye auto focus does seem to be less effective when the weather is dull. It definitely does get confused at times, with deer I find it will often focus on the nose, so have mine set up for the dual back button focus the same as you so I can give it a helping hand.
I experimented with the top dial in auto iso and AV mode and found that mine was adjusting the iso also, in manual I have it set to adjust aperture, but can't see how you can program the button when in AV.
Great information Paul, thank you. Yes, focus will never be infallible.. having other options helps when necessary.
Set the eye AF to back button leave your regular shutter button default. That way you never have to move your fingers if the back button does not detect the eye or head just let it go and user single point on the regular shutter button. A lot of people use two buttons on the back for the two different types of AF and it makes no sense to me
Love that!
Same. I don’t do the two back button focus thing.
Hmmm interesting. When i tried out my 500f4 MKI with a R5 it was REALLY bad!.
Very slow
VERY VERY slow with a 1.4TC
low fps
white box for the focus coverage was very limited(a lot smaller than the full frame, because of the lens!)
But glad you found it alright!?
Really you need the 500f4 MKII lens for those R cams!
I’m using a Mk1 IS 500/4 on my R6. I’ve had the R6 for a year, and haven’t used it that much due to a knee injury, but, I have to be honest that I haven’t been blown away with the stills from this combo.
Now, this may be user error, I’m still getting used to the settings, but the images looked great on the rear LCD but didn’t hold up to closer scrutiny on a PC.
Even though the bird eye AF looked to be locking on, it wasn’t as sharp as I thought it would be. I may have to rent the 100-500RF to compare, which I’d rather not do, the 500/4 is my dream lens, it’s such a special piece of glass, but it’s got to work.
I’d be interested in how others are getting on with this set up…………
This is interesting. So far it seems to be performing well with my R6. It focused really fast to me.
Would be good to compare with the zoom lens for sure. I am looking at image quality myself at the moment. It's a bit of a mixed bag but there are some variables I need to look at properly. And I've barely shot anything below ISO 1600 yet!
@@PaulMiguelPhotography That sounds like my first impressions, the 1-5 is rated highly by everyone who has it but F7.1@500mm 😳 I just don’t know coming from the original 1-4 which was F5.6@400mm.
@@cerealkiller4248 I have the 500mm f4 mk1 with the R7, and I'm noticing a bit of inconsistency with the AF as well, and a tendency to backfocus at further ranges, despite the AF zone being right on the bird's body or the eye. Doesn't matter if its servo or one-shot.. sometimes it hits, sometimes it doesn't. But if I turn focus bracketing on and set it for 2 shots, the 2nd shot of the bracket is almost always spot on. I still don't understand why, but maybe give that try! (if the R6 has focus bracketing)
has any one compared the sigma 500mm f4 vs the canon 500mm ef F4 II and in particular stablisation ???
Great video & photos. I’m a Nikon mirrorless user but love your content. 👍
Thank-you very much.
I ended up setting my M Fn button to adjust ISO because while you can set one of the dials to adjust ISO - there's no way to change it back to Auto without going back into a menu...
Love your videos I have recently started to shoot wildlife and I am learning a lot from your posts thank you for the content. I have a similar lens the 500mm F4 L lens that I purchased used in excellent condition I cannot get the focus presets to work either on my R5 or my 7d2. Do you use the focus preset on your 500mm lens? Do you have any knowledge if it is even supported ? I would appreciate any insight you may provide, and again thank you for your videos they are very informative.
Thank you. I never actually use the focus preset myself. I believe it doesn't work with an R5, R6 etc., but should work on 7D I think.
Is a 500 f4 good enough for low light morning or evening. Or better go for a 400 f2.8?
It is pretty good, but 400mm f2.8 would be better
Okay, on my R5 I use a weird back button set up. I use the control ring on my lens or adapter to select focus points. My shutter button still shoots normally (front button focus) with the currently select focus point. My AF back button is set to tracking mode. I typically leave the control ring setting on single point. So the shutter button will get me close before I back button, or let me force the shot to the single point. So instead of a dual back button, I have a traditional front and secondary back button AF. This means anybody can use my camera normally, but I can quickly use the back button for tracking.
Love it. There are so many ways to configure these cameras now and it's whatever works for your style of shooting. Respect to you for focusing with the shutter button... think you're the first one in this thread so far.. lol! I personally have always preferred shutter button focus. Will see how I get on with this camera before deciding on my preferred method.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography I find that I use the back button eye detect a lot. So I'd say I'm 50/50 on front vs back focus. I was very surprised that I could leave the front working and just went with it.
Loved the video, how cute!
Yeah, eye tracking works fantastically well except when it doesn't XD
BTW, you preferring using the shutter half press focus got me curious and I just tried something... If you have your regular AF on the shutter button, having the eye-tracking on the star button still works and overrides the regular focus should you choose to use it! Maybe you already found that out, if not it could maybe be worth a try :)
Great advice. Yes, that's an option. I will find the best way for me eventually!
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Looking forward to seeing your explorations of the new system! Thank you for all your great content :)
Hi Paul your focusing issue in video might have to do with the lens used.
Hi Paul. I also have the 500mm F4L is mark 1 and the is stays on all the time! I hear the mecanical is system working constantly and it stop working only if I turn off the camera or when i switch to the menu. I tried it on a friend’s canon 5D Mark iii and it works normaly, only if I push halfway down the shutter button. Is that normal? Do you have the same problem as me?
I haven't used I.S. with this lens on the R6 I'm afraid. I never used to use it anyway! But I will test it, because it should work with the camera's IBIS to improve everything.
I have R5 and EF 600mm f4 and have the same issue you have. Not sure if they fixed it in the RF mount version. Something with the converter maybe? Seems strange, but works great, so until I find a lot of money for a new RF 600mm it can make all the noise it wants.
The vibration is caused by the lack of stability of the tripod mount that connects the lense to the tripod when tightend .
. I have the exact same tripod mount as your using the manfotto videohead mount
I have the same issue with my Sigma it's awful . The Mount on the Sigma is tooo short offers zero stability . Even when i fit the baseplate to secure it to the tripod
Great video Paul. I’ve always turned off IS on lens when shooting on a tripod. Does turning off IS on the lens also turn off IBIS on the camera? Thanks!
With Canon, a stabilized lens controls IBIS. You can't use lens stabilization and IBIS independently.
Thank you John. I wasn't sure about this. I will try and experiment so I can see it in action.
@@JohnDrummondPhoto Thanks!
Great video, but Paul Miguel doing a whole video shooting "tree rats" I never thought I would see that happen 😉Lovely shots you made of the little guys :) Have you tried the FV mode yet?
Hey, these guys aren't tree-rats.. they're the real deal.! Lol.. The red squirrels are absolutely beautiful, such amazing characters.. i love them!
I think you are being rather disingenuous to the lovely squirrels. Rats are also not so bad individually, there is just so many of them, plus where they go! If we had no sewers then there would be no rats in them?
@@oldrob Don't take it to serious, it was just a joke about something Paul said in a video long ago :)
I’m in the camp of not wanting to let my 1dx go. I’m curious how you find the durability and battery life of the R6? Obviously the battery will drain faster than 1dx, but so you feel confident the R6 will continue working through all the outdoor conditions you will encounter?
Totally understand that feeling. Yes, battery life is considerably worse with the R6, but it's not terrible. That's one potential question mark, durability.. which I took into account. I will see how it goes but definitely will be taking more care to cover it in bad weather.
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Hi Paul, I'm following along with interest as went from the 1Dx to the R6, for the same reasons as you last year. I've been using it mostly in messy woodland, for deer, foxes, badgers, squirrels. I find the eye AF is very fast and reliable when the subject is clear in the frame, but in dense woodland with subject small in the frame and partially obscured by cover, it will struggle. I view this as an extreme situation, so just accepted it as me pushing the camera beyond reasonable limits. I also had a few times where it struggled when photographing seals, small in the frame in blowing sand and sea spray, but mostly it was fine. Again, this situation obscured the animal's full shape and partially obscured the eye.
Overall - I'm amazed by the animal eye autofocus.
I use the AF-on button for focus lock and leave my shutter button on continuous AF all the time. If I need to grab manual focus, the AF-on gives me that. The other wonderful focus tool in the R6 is the zoom button, with manual focus. Interesting that you find the IS not tripod compatible on the 500. I use the 300 2.8 IS mark one and it does work well on a tripod. I thought they were both the same gen.
Anyway thanks - keep these video coming. (love Snaizeholm too)
Clive
I would agree with you so far about the focusing system. Great focus set up you have by the way. It seems to vary with the I.S. - seems difficult to get a straight answer. Trial and error always best! I'll have plenty to share on this combo Clive. Hopefully will help you too.
@@PaulMiguelPhotography Hi Paul, I find myself looking seriously at buying an EF 500mm f4 IS mark one - the same as yours. Are you still happy with it and the R6, or as you experiment; is it good with the 1.4x and 2x? Or as you experiment with the R6, are you thinking that an upgrade to a version ii super tele is in your future? Clive
@@clivebushnell8428 I bought my Canon 500F4 new 15 years ago and it works very well with the 1.4x as well as the 2x. The 2x does noticeably slow down the autofocus though but I have still managed birds in flight with it. Make sure you get a mark 3 extender though, not an older version. I virtually never use the image stabiliser for the same reason Paul said. Also, once you develop a good technique, it is not really necessary.
I have just got an R6 mark ii and the autofocus is massively better than my 5D mark 4. Very pleased with it so far.
Should you correct this? Do You mean Canon ef 500 f4 non IS lens?
This lens does have IS.