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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ก.พ. 2021
- My 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7L with the Quadra Drive system and Vari-lok limited slip diffs front and rear. Has a 2" budget boost lift on 245/75/16 tires in this video.
Has been lifted to a 4" with 285/75/16 tires in new videos.
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I have a 2002 Overland with 190k. Nothing worked properly and was bound up from previous owner not servicing the differentials. I flushed the diffs and the transfer case. Spent the extra money on the Mopar fluid and modifier. 50 miles later everything works just like new and no more binding/clunking/howling as well. They were told by mechanics that the diffs and case were shot. I don't have oversized tires with heavy treads, but the Vari-locks really work well.
I have the 2002 Overland too. When they changed my differential fluids, the Jeep made the same creaking and groaning noises. Thought my Drive Trane was broken, so I took it to a repair guy to check out the problem. He shrugged and said I likely needed a major overhaul. I was ready to sell it. As a last resort I took it to an older guy who just by LUCK had the same type of WJ. He said all I needed was the heavy duty towing fluid for the Quadra Drive of that year. No one else knew but HIM and didn't even want to charge me for labor cost! Like you said, mine now runs like new. Not Select Track, like 2 others thought. Now I just need the fluid modifier to ensure it stays that way.
@@christopherjohn8521 Yep! A few jugs of the right stuff with the right additives makes everything peachy keen.
New subscriber here. Just purchased a used 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee I want to add lift, front and rear offroad bumpers, and wheels/ tires to use in the backcountry where I live. Really enjoyed the videos I have watched so far! Great info from you and many of your subscribers. Again thanks!
Go with the Iron Rock 4" long arm.
I went with the iro 4 inch premium short arm lift kit. Works like a monster.... go and get it!!
They need to spin a bit to build up full lock pressure. When you let off, your pretty much starting over.
No if 4low
@@antoniomiljanovic9317
Yes if in 4low
Those diffs don’t know if they are in high or low.
They build hydraulic pressure when they turn at different speeds.
Just keep them spinning, or even give it a little more gas to get them to lock up.
@@johnarcher9480please read the manual about 4lo. You are very wrong
I got a 02 4.7 . And I have none of those issues I have 4 inch lift, 30inch tires and few other little upgrades . I take it everywhere from the beaches in long Island to the trails in pennsylvania.
99 limited on 31s ... Same
O4, 4” lift, 31.5” tire (265s).
Mine works fine as well. Knock on wood.
I’ve put it through hell too.
Anybody ever have issues with front brakes ?? Replaced pads,rotors and calipers if I turn the wheel to far while driving sounds like something is rubbing like the pad or caliper, can't see what it is tho
Yeah its probably a good idea to do a fluid check. I have the quadra trac so ive open diffs but it does well in the snow for what it is. My only issue is i feel like it crab crawls through the snow, feels like the back end is constantly to the right. Still dont know what could be wrong 😂
Mine works spot on dude no issues I'm going anywhere
That's the way my jeep was when I first started Wheeling it. Like I said I think it's time to change the fluids.
Yep..this video is what I needed to see.. thanks!
I drive on the Australian sand, we got sand dunes everywhere in western Australia 🇦🇺 and my overland 05 2.7 crd cruisers through no trouble at all ,only got 2inch lift i love my wj.
What do you think about my sand driving tips video? th-cam.com/video/Akycbc-zFbU/w-d-xo.html
@@FastestIntegra very interesting and much respect information
We’ve had two WJ’s with Quadra Drive and Vari-loks, gave away the 1999 and still have the 2004. It’s my understanding that the difference in speed between the sides drives a gerotor type oil pump which drives a progressive lockup. Thus, you need one wheel to spin to get any lockup, and “progressive” suggests it doesn’t lock all at once. If I was rock crawling on a budget I’d have lunchbox lockers. With more $$ I’d go manual like ARB. The Eaton G80 on my 1982 C2500 also requires one wheel to spin (about 100 rpm in relation to the other wheel), then a centrifugal dog triggers mechanical lockup. Both systems will get you off an icy patch under one wheel, but they aren’t ideal off road. I think Quadra Drive with Vari-loks was intended to be the perfect soccer mom setup: just aim it and step on the gas. Vari-loks definitely DO want correct lube, and my reading suggests they are not rebuildable. Also, if you want that NV247 transfer case (with its own Vari-lok) to survive, make sure your tires have exactly the same circumference.
My Veri locks work excellent off and on road. Much better than the after market lockers. The reason for me is drivability on and off road and the stock lockers are the way to go. Definitely change the gear oil and friction modifyer.. I highly recommend that you go Mopar vs an equivalent. Also, that fluid change needs to happen every 12,000 miles.
30,000 miles
You've got worn parts man! Time for verilok rebuild maybe even gyro pump in that NV247
My quadra drive 2 in my 05 cherokee 5.7 works excellent. There is just a slight difference between the two. But enough to make those climbs much easier. I will make a video soon of my woods and driving this over stumps hills and rocks....it doesnt make those noises either....sounds like a rebuild on the front diff.... fix that front...and those things are tanks regardless. Cant believe ya gt out of the sand either...lol
Mine does the part were only front left spins and rear right, or the opposite, 04 overland with 155k, what should i start doing?
My 2004 limited v8 wj with has none of these issues with it's Vari-Lok all 4 lock up tight. I've been asked if I have lockers before on trail rides. I have 180k miles on mine now.
My WJ v8 is at 267k. I have tons of videos of it working great I think it's just time to change the fluids.
Mitch B
Same, same, same. Steel blue pearl, limited 4” lift, 31.5” tires, 4.7, 180kish miles, closer to 190k now I think.
She got her issues, but overall great.
I’ve also been mistaken for having lockers.
Funny when you tell em it’s all stock system.
@@FastestIntegra
Yeah could be. I got water in my diff once before caused the lok to not want to engage.
Also too much friction modifier will do it.
As much mileage as you have and tire size you may want to buy redline or Lucas 75-140, has some fm in it already.
Then maybe add some little by little if it engages more quickly then it should on the road.
A lot of people will tell you you can’t rebuild those clutch packs but I’m bout 99% positive I’ve seen rebuild kits for it online in the deep dark corners of the web.
Gotta go looking for spicer part #s and all that jazz.
No telling if they’re still available now even if at one time they were though.
That’s what I worry about with mine is, when is it gunna go and what am I gunna do about it when it does.
I probably will swap 44s from a newer Jeep with electric lockers before I buy a locker for the current axles.
But I’d replacement clutch packs could be had cheap enough, I would go that route.
Please upload a video. I'm yet to see a video of proper working vari-locks. I have subscribed and turned on notifications.
Did you ever figure out why the vari-lok wouldn’t engage on the rocks ? And what was causing the grinding noise ??
I'm buying a 2004 WJ Overland Edition, with a dana44 in the rear and Dana 30 in the front, both front and rear vari-lok differentials. Should I leave the vari-lok differentials as they are, or should I go through the trouble of installing ARB lockers? My ultimate goal is to ba able to take it to southern Utah and tackle some of the harder trails.
I've gone to a local gear shop in town and I've asked a ton of people on Facebook and everybody has told me that I cannot upgrade those vari lok axles. They say you need to buy open diffs and upgrade those with something like ARB or Detroit or whatever.
What lift kit do you have?
I'm yet to see a video of the WJ vari-locks working effectively. And every time there's someone is in the comments saying that the user isn't giving them enough time to engage. Well here you go. Sweet jeep and a great video. Thanks.
Well that's a super common issue. People don't know how LSD's work, so they just assume they're junk cuz they don't engage right away. These LSD's need 120RPM to fully engage. So you gotta get the rpms up a little and they'll lock hard.
th-cam.com/video/mk51aMWXrIw/w-d-xo.html
I guess if you do things like that with your vari lock Jeep you need to replace your axle lube extra often? Transfer case lube too ?
Yes
I think that’s about as good as it gets with the Quadra drive, besides maby using less friction modifier than the factory calls for, or a heavier fluid if there was such a thing
Was the rear tire rubbin up into the fenderwell? I don't know that's why i'm asking.
Yes it was at extreme angles.
This TC is only good for fun snow days daily driver.
momentum is your friend i'm afraid. no crawling. looks fun though.
Yes momentum can be your friend in certain situations like sand, mud or snow it could also be your enemy
Any update ?
thats NOT a quadra drive, thats a quardra trac set up. A quadradrive would first of locked up the axles, secondly, you cant put a big suspension lift like he has on a quadradrive. The front axle wont allow for a fit.
Looks like the wheel is stuck in the fender
What was your tire pressure at?
Most of the video was at Highway pressure just screwing around off road the stuff in the sand was at 14 psi.
Your t case chain sounds like it’s slipping .
0:43 Were you in 4lo ?
I think the grinding is tire rub passenger rear. Get rid of that budget lift if your going to do off road and go with www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/wj-4-rock-link-pro-long-arm-lift-kit.html
The grinding sound is definitely not the tire rubbing that makes a different sound.
All that footage was before I put the IRO kit on with equivalent to 33 inch tires.
Still having same issues though.
@@FastestIntegra Sorry to hear that. I was just looking at the best outcome from what I saw in the Video. Good luck. I'm still working on mine.
I was thinking maybe something with the clutches in the vari lok, maybe it’s them slipping and not grabbing
What's the difference in capability?
My H 3 would eat that stuff up. Had to put heavy duty tie rodss on . Factory ones were junk.
That's a Laredo... almost certainly a Quadra-Trac, not a Quadra-Drive. Which would explain why it acts like it has open diffs--it does.
Thanks for the comment.
It is the quadra drive it has the badging on the rear hatch and on the shift column
Then how do you explain the Dana 35 rear diff clearly visible in your Budget Boost video?
@@davidcooke5712 You DO NOT know what your looking at. The rear is a Dana 44 with the Vari-lok. Your funny LOL!!!
Just out of curiosity, is the Latrobe rd ?
Very close it's at Prairie City
@@FastestIntegra I knew it looked familiar. That's all my old stomping grounds when I was a kid. Good shit 🤙🏻
судя по видео блокировка у вас плохо работает. Возможно масло не подходящее или фрикционы изношены.
I think you're right. But, I'm leaning to a fluid issue. Not knowing the mileage on this Jeep. I'll make an assumption that the gear oil needs replaced with a friction modifyer.. Veri locks need a complete fluid change every 12,000 miles. Also, use Mopar gear oil and friction modifyer , no substitutes .
Yeah, seemed just like OD's. . . full slippage.
Hey what rear tire carrier do you have?
I working on a review video of the front and rear bumper I do NOT like the build quality from Goliath
@@FastestIntegra Really? I thought for the price the bumpers would be top-notch. That is good to know because I was looking at them, but they are out of my price range.
Just posted WJ bumper review
Change fluid and go again and show us
It'll take me some time but I'll start working on that video
Definitely this
What ever the sound is, it's going to coast you. Just go ahead and upgrade.
I was told I can’t lift my Quadra drive without changing the front driveshaft?
Look at your front drive shaft if it looks like a CV joint going into the transfer case that's the style they say no to but if it's got a Double U joint by the transfer case you're good to go.
You can also try and change out that driveshaft to the other type and lift it then
1:54
Are you sure you have VARI-LOK posi axles??
If you do you need to check your fluid levels man I have those installed front and rear on my 04 Limited they don't hardly spend an eighth of a turn before they engage.
как будто Vari Lock не функционирует
English translation?
@@FastestIntegra GoogleTranslation :it seems to me that Vari Lock does not function 100%
Why did you keep doing that wtf
hey man！do you have any contact methods？there has a business enquiry for you！
You again F off dude get reel.
Need to air way down for sand