Savile Row Bespoke Tailor ? Not All Tailors Are Even Tailors.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
- Des Merrion explains what to ask before choosing a tailor to make your perfect suit.
Distinguishes the difference between made to measure suits (MTM) and authentic true bespoke suits.
Des identifies the key questions to ask your tailor to establish their credentials and capabilities. He then clarifies, “How much is a bespoke suit?”
We then find out whether you actually need to go to Savile Row in London to get a genuine bespoke suit made in the UK.
The topic of glued or fused vs canvassed suits is then alluded to.
Whether you are looking for a wedding suit, business or work suit or a suit for a special occasion, get in touch with Des at desmerrion.com/
My first suit ever will be bespoke. I've worn enough casual clothes to know that fit is of utmost principle.
Just from your words, I can tell you are proud and stand behind your craft. That I truly respect.
Your reasoning is sound, it would be nice if more people realised the difference between a ‘suit’ and a genuine bespoke suit. It’s like comparing a Bentley motor to a Ford motor, at the end of the day they’re both cars, but they’re actually a really different product.
I truly love my craft and I’m glad that you picked up on that 🍻
If you are enormously wealthy, that's an impressive approach, but if you (like me) are a person who works for a living and who is simply digging deep into a budget out of a love of craft, there's some wisdom in "bootstrapping" with lesser stuff first. I found I needed to spend time out in the world getting a sense of what I like and what I don't - as well as what the norms look like in the settings that I care about. Over years of adulthood these observations have added up to a calibrated sense of personal style. But I had to get dressed to even collect those observations: the job interviews that preceded a thriving career, the weddings where I was young and inconspicuous, etc.
I haven't yet had the fortune to commission a bespoke suit, but I do have a bespoke pair of shoes in process right now. I struggle to imagine how I could have productively attended that first appointment with Perry Ercolino had I never worn a pair of dress shoes before. Instead of a design and material that I know will fit in the outfits and moments that matter most to me, I might have chosen a fantasy that cost a lot of my money (and a lot of a craftsman's time) and yielded much less practical mileage.
Good luck!
Thanks for the video. I dodged a bullet with a tailor who claimed to be bespoke. I just commissioned my first bespoke suit and am waiting for my basted fitting!
Pleased to hear that you haven’t fallen into the hands of a fake tailor, that’s always good to hear. Cheers 🍻
I always felt that the made-to-measure industry took advantage of the masses who are unaware of what true bespoke tailoring is. If you charge a few hundred dollars for a made-to-measure suit, fine. But to charge upwards of $1,000 dollars for a made-to-measure suit being sent to China, Thailand or Mexico is ridiculous.
You’re exactly on point, Alec. It’s disappointing that so many people are clearly reeled in with smoke and mirrors salesmanship. A mere 10 minutes of internet research would educate buyers about what constitutes true bespoke tailoring. And then, even if they couldn’t afford genuine bespoke tailoring, they’d definitely be able to make a much more informed purchase. 🍻
What do you think of Maurice Sedwell?
@@kevinnoble24 Not sure if this was directed to me or Desmond, but Andrew Ramroop is extremely talented. I may be considered bias since I'm currently enrolled in the Savile Row Academy (online course), but his abilities not only as a master tailor but as a teacher are incredible.
@@kevinnoble24 Andrew Ramroop is a real bespoke tailor, and I have no bind whatsoever with genuine, bespoke tailors. Personally, I don’t like some of Andrews style details on the coats, such as delta wing collars, odd angled breast welt pockets and flaps etc, but that’s purely down to my personal taste and not the skill of the craftsman. 🍻
Just a great video, needs more views!
Cheers, matey. Hopefully it may gather some momentum 🤷🏼♂️
The blue jacket, pink shirt and pink pocket square you are wearing look fantastic.
Thank you for your kind words. Cheers 🍻
This man is worth his weight in gold, listen to him!
Thank you, Sir. Cheers 🍻
This video got recommended by TH-cam & this is my first time learning about suit, let alone bespoke. This tailor sounds like he has several years of experience. I think you will go far, Sir. All the best. Subscribed.
Cheers matey. I’m now into my 38th year as as a bespoke tailor, so I’m just getting settled into the trade 🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 38 years? 😂😂😂. ignore my previous comment. i had no idea what i was talking about. i will buy your bespoke suit someday. Cheers.
Went to the shop and was in heaven.
It was a pleasure speaking with you today, Amanda. Cheers 🍻
Love your jacket.
Cheers matey 🍻
Excellent video , very inspiring, I believe this gentleman is in business in Yorkshire , my son lives in Rothwell , when I am next over there I must pay this gentleman a visit.
Thank you, Karl. I’m glad that you liked my video… Yes, I’m now based at my home in Pontefract, ironically, we moved here from Rothwell. The next time that you visit your son in Rothwell I would be delighted to assist you with your tailoring requirements.
*I MAKE BESPOKE HISTORICAL SUITS* 1890 to 1930 - the thing I think most people do not understand [and most tailors fail to mention] is the astonishing amount of work that goes into making a suit that will last DECADES of regular wear
A simply vast amount of the work goes into making it as near to indestructible as possible, and as expandable as possible in case you put on weight.
Fantastic video and a breath of fresh air! I'm in Los Angeles and we're lucky to have Steed and Redmayne Tailors come out here and make suits for us. I hope they're ok in your book. Once again thank you for this video.
I’m glad that you like my video, Paul. I personally prefer Steed, I know their coat maker, Lee. And Lee was actually at my house for a natter two weeks ago … 🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 👍
I’m a admirer of the Redmayne drape cut . Will be seeing Tom and Claire next week in Boston. I’m thinking a tweed POW sports coat and flannel odd trousers
Agreed! Too many people believe they’re tailors. To be a tailor takes years, it Doesn’t happen over night!
Cheers matey 🍻
Fantastic! Thank you for your knowledge
You’re most welcome, Sir. 🍻
Great video it seems like you have a lot of knowledge to share. Keep making videos! Subscribed 👍
Thank you. I’ve certainly learnt a few things during the last 38 years as a cut and make bespoke tailor … 🍻
Great Video. I’m off to Saville Row for my suit and this video ha great points to look out for.
Brilliant 🍻 Let me know how you get on, Rav.
Happy Newyear Desmond I just found your channel & its the typical case i am listening to you and wish I heard this message before I wasted my money on a tailor simply because I really wanted the Suit altered.
Thank you for your message, Jarod. Unfortunately you’re not alone, yours is a story that I hear far too frequently.
@@desmondmerrion1543 Yeah absolutely thanks for your understanding. Which part of UK is your accent from
@@jarodorla6949 I’m Yorkshire born and bred, which is a county about 220 miles north of London.
@@desmondmerrion1543 Awesome, more of these types of dialogue of videos as the educational as they are informative
Really you are work hard man keep it up...
Thank you, Sir. 🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 you are so dedicated man... In uk 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧...
Hi Desmond,
Your are right body canvas does not make a bespoke coat, indeed I have done both canvas and fusing, with a floating chest piece.
Edmund, semi retired bespoke coat maker to the trade, own work studio
Thank You. Absolutely fantastic. Will try to contact you soon
You’re welcome, Bharat 👊🏻🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 will try to contact you soon
Joking apart- one thing that is obvious when the suit is bespoke is the stitches. They are irregular if done by hand
They’re not necessarily irregular, from the right side they’re actually quite consistent, but when looked at from the underside the lack of uniformity defining hand sewn is clear to see.
I do have some suits. But the first bespoke I'm planning to do by myself 😂
Oki cokie fire clackers 🍻
Nice Rolex. This man has overall class. 👌
Cheers, Jorge. But It’s actually a 2019 Omega Seamaster 🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 I see. Fooled me. Beautiful watch, nontheless. 👌👍
@@JorgeRojas-ut3wj It’s easily done, Jorge. And thank you, I do really like it 🍻
Always a refreshing to see traditional mechanical watches rather than smart watches nowadays.
@@fozyk1099 Absolutely. Cheers me old 🍻
There is a maker in my city that says that his clothing is bespoke but I have yet to check it out. There are three appointments: First is designing a personalized garment and getting measured, second is the first fitting after approximately 3 weeks, and a final fitting after 2 weeks after the first fitting. Also, the average price for a suit is 800 CAD. Would you consider these facts a red flag?
I really liked the video and thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Yes, absolutely. My former trainee who lives in Canada charges CAD 3,850 for a 2 piece genuine bespoke suit.
@@desmondmerrion1543 First of all, thank you very much. Second of all, do you know where in Canada your former trainee has his or her shop?
@@kylechabot-rudick2403 If you send me an email I’ll pass you his details.
@@desmondmerrion1543 Do you know any good bespoke tailors in the US?
Good working 😊😊🙂👍
🍻
Love the video. I wish you were in Los Angeles or could recommend a decent bespoke shop here.
Thank you. I’m glad that you like the video. Unfortunately, I don’t know any tailors over in LA. Apologies that I’m unable to give you any assistance with that matter 🍻
Everything checks out, except i only need one fitting with my tailor. I guessed he just gets it right. Am I mistaken?
If you’ve already had a few pieces from your guy, then he’ll probably have your pattern dialled in. So yes, a single fitting is fine. Cheers 🍻
Hi desmond, Steve O'connell in Leeds here hope your doing well just wondering if you have finished with your you tube chanel as I can't find anything since your first posting
Hi, Steve. No, I haven’t finished posting videos, but I am struggling to find the time to make new content…🍻
More videos please! Makes a change from the boring stuffed shirts poncing away on social media.
I’ll try to make more, Sajid. Thank you for the feedback 🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 please do. We have a tiny workshop here in London making bespoke, using the same fabrics & trimmings etc as the exalted Savile Row but some people think that we're too cheap! I've forwarded your video to all my contacts. Forget the London loud mouths who know nothing, listen to a true master.
What do you think about Savile Row houses that are offering bespoke or made to measure suits that are sent away abroad as part of their process? Huntsmen have the "Bespoke 100", Edward Sexton in Knightsbridge offers "Offshore Bespoke"? Gieves send their Made to Measure abroad too. I am not entirely sure who does what or where, but can it be Savile Row or British tailoring if it's not 100% started until finished in Britain? And does it actually matter (as long as the suits are still great suits for half the cost of fully British made Bespoke)?
That’s a great question, Sir. All the big Savile Row houses have been having their ready to wear off the peg garments made abroad for years. I don’t think that most of them could have survived this long if they had had to purely rely on bespoke suit orders.
The big SR houses are now much more than mere tailoring houses, they’re brands and ateliers that will tie their names with anything that makes them money. Most, if not all of the ready to wear garments are made by Wensum, who used to be UK based, but Wensum moved production to Mauritius quite a while back.
Davies & Son (SR) established a workroom in China years ago, and I take it on very good authority that the garments that come out of the Chinese workroom are actually better quality that the ones that come out of the SR workroom. But, I have absolutely no problem with a genuine bespoke suit being made anywhere in the world, as long as customers are informed about where it was made.
The main gripe that I have, as does every other genuine bespoke tailor that I’ve ever known or spoke to is, the ‘fake’ tailors, frauds and liars without any skills or knowledge that are constantly passing off sub standard, foreign made, fully machined, fused garments as bespoke garments. They’re not bespoke garments in any sense of the word other than being specifically made for that individual. These frauds and fakes are doing nothing other than lining their pockets, and in the process damaging the art, craft and heritage of genuine bespoke tailoring that I love so much. 🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 thanks for your reply. There’s certainly much to consider. I recently ordered two SR suits and had to enquire where they would be made and was told it would be offshore in Mauritius and India, but that the workshops could be trusted as they were experienced and well trained. Initially, this shocked me as it was not actually stated with the initial order, but I still felt confident with the Houses that I would be getting quality for a more affordable price to my budget in comparison to a fully made SR suit. I think there’s a lot to discuss here when it comes to offshore and would certainly enjoy a video where you directly address this murky water to help inform would be customers of what to be aware of. Many thanks 🙏
@@gurtana Somewhat reaffirms my thoughts, don’t you think ? But, I just don’t understand why the SR house that you used couldn’t, didn’t, or won’t tell you that your suits were being made offshore until you actually asked ! If the product is good quality, and they have confidence in offering it, what’s the harm for them being completely transparent upfront ? It’s as if they’re ashamed, and I don’t get it.
I fully understand that not everyone has got £3,000 to throw at a genuine bespoke suit, and there’s a good market of clients who are looking for a quality alternative, which is why I provide three options to my clients.
I simply remove labour, namely hand finishing, and replace this with machine sewing. But I suppose the main difference is that I choose to cut and fully make in house all the garments that my clients order no matter which option they settle on.
@@desmondmerrion1543
Sir, you are absolutely right about 'surviving' in this market.
Let me give you an example of my country (Pakistan). In the older days, you have to look for it but you were able to find good tailors but over the years, tailoring became an inferior skill here and the children of those skilled tailors wanted to do something other than tailoring. Hence, when the craftsman dies, his skill dies with him.
Today, its near to impossible to find tailors that can stitch full canvas suit, forget bespoke. All of the old names have shifted their process to fused canvas, mainly because its cost effective and partly because there is scarcity of tailors that can stitch full canvas. There is no craft left, they are just surviving to keep the name alive (at the cost of quality of course).
Some of the blame also goes to the customers. Like you mention, bespoke suits are expensive but people here aren't willing to pay for true craftsman's skill. And its not just suits, same goes for the cobblers.
@@fozyk1099 Very true indeed, Sir 🍻
I Love His amazing Oration
Great YT Gem Video
Thank you, Sir. Cheers 🍻
Sir, you changed my perception of Bespoke Suits. What we are having is disposable suits and nothing else. Can you please help me know what is the appropriate size and trendy lapel for a heritage suit of a 50+
You can’t go far wrong with a lapel size of 3.4” - 3.5” it’ll stay in vogue pretty indefinitely. 🍻
Are there any bespoke tailors even left in the United States?
Yes, lots if you look for the real ones.
@@desmondmerrion1543 I don’t think there are any near me, sadly. Might have to travel to the coasts!
Check out Joseph Genuardi in Hoboken, NJ
What do you think of Maurice Sedwell?
Personally, I’m not too keen on some of the style details that they do, but they’re the real deal and very good tailors… providing genuine bespoke tailoring.
Good job 👏👏👏❤️❤️
Thank you very much 🍻
Is it possible to get bespoke suit for 1600 pounds?
Not in the UK that’s for sure. Maybe if you go to Asia but one must be really careful not to get scammed.
As I’ve eluded to in my video, to make a bespoke suit of the highest quality takes at least 80 hours of labour. So I’m sure that you could get one, but you’d have to ask yourself, what’s been sacrificed for the labour ? Where do they save the money to sell genuine bespoke for £1,600 ? There’s one place costs can be cut from and that’s the labour which ultimately is reflected in the finished quality of the product.
@@desmondmerrion1543 Thank you for your response. Appreciate your advice
@@kevinnipal1012 You’re welcome, Kevin.
1. Drive 700 miles to the nearest city that still has bespoke tailor
2. One guy is booked for the next four years, so go to the other one
3. 70% down payment
4. He dies before he finishes your suit
😂
Excelente, saludos
Thank you, Sir 🍻
Gd morning sir
Good morning me old mucker.
What wrong have i done that you are saying mucker me if I hurt inadvertently so i am sorry
@@faizanafzal1111 Mucker means friend, it’s the same as saying mate, pal etc.
My bad i thought it means hypocrite
Thank you sir
how much would a vicuna suit be?
The cost of a Vicuña suit would depend on which merchant the actual cloth was purchased from.
A fair average around the £5,000 per metre, just for the cloth, would mean that there’d be around £16 - £19,000 in cloth costs alone. Whichever way you look at it, the figures would be truly eye watering… Is it worth it ? To some yes, to most no.
he looks like that man from malcom in the middle!!!!
Very Impressive praise indeed… you never know, I may well be the man from Malcolm In The Middle 🤷🏼♂️
💯🧥
🍻 mate.
I love watching these bespoke videos the craftsmanship is truly amazing..... The only blot is how people can afford to spend absolutely ridiculous amounts of money on bespoke tailored garments.... When people are struggling to make ends meet.... It just doesn't seem right to me.... Bespoke tailored garments are for fat cats and other people who have far far far too much money at their disposal........
Horses for courses matey 🤷♂️
Im bespoke suit warkar i need a job sir
🍻
Hai. Im irfan.
🍻
hallo je
🍻
@@desmondmerrion1543 sir im bespoke suit warkar i need a job
Hello 🍻
stethoscopes out.
give me work I am tailor master
Computer says “No”.
Im bespoke suit warkar i need a job sir
Really?
@@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 yes sir
@@heinzguderianbutmoreyounge9659 sir give me job sir
@@shakilmerdha8154 im not gonna give you a job,you even know what?
🍻