OK. Well after having hip problems for the past week, I was finally able to get back to it. Being a mechanic for 21 yrs, I have to say that this is the most difficult task. Once I got everything lined up, the only way that belt would go on (for some reason) was to rotate the engine and roll it onto the tension pulley. Took a few attempts, but I got everything lined up. I want to thank you for this video, although I had to bend the rules, you helped me to make it work. Thanks again.
I just want to say thanks. It's taking me almost a year to do this project due to the car being outside and winter but you are saving me about 1700 dollars worth of work. I will say the timing belt is easier if you have a helper to apply a little pressure on the top gears. Your tensioner was a little different than mine but I took mine off to get the belt in place then screwed the tensioner down. It was easier than trying to force the belt over the edge of the tensioner. Like you said though once I started rotating the tensioner it lined up and all the timing knotches aligned.
Thank you for the instructions. I am a retired mechanic from the dealerships and I am used to downloading instructions from motor alldata. I have never done a timing belt on a PT. Thanks for your knowledge.
For those who may have trouble getting the timing belt back on, I just completed this job today (3/23/17). The toughest part was getting the timing belt on right. If you listen carefully, the advice MotorCity Mechanic gives is as good as the steps he shows - you must be patient. It took me either four or five tries to get the belt on so that the sprockets lined up perfectly. It was tempting to move on when it was "close" just because of the difficulty. But it was also the difficulty of the whole job that made me remember his counsel to be patient, and keep trying, one step at a time. That proved invaluable as I finally did it to where it landed right after cranking two revolutions.
If there is one step you need to spend time on.....the timing marks is that moment. Otherwise you will be doing the job all over again until you get it right.
@@MotorCityMechanic Thanks for emphasizing that. Fortunately, I remembered and it saves me the trouble others had because they didn't remember, or thought close was good enough. I really feel for those who had to redo it.for us DIYers, it's way more difficult, I'm sure than for you pros. Thanks again for making these videos!
I also watched your video on changing plugs which I have done. I followed the same procedure you did. One extra tidbit though, you need a plug socket with the rubber in it to grab the plug out. But I figure you already know that. I forgot to tell you I also replaced the the multi-use switch, not by me though. One reason I have such an appreciation for mechanics is I am a commercial pilot who used to fly piston twins. I always worked with our mechanics as a humble helper and learned a lot about keeping those engines purring. My boss always appreciated my checking everything before and after the flights. He used to let me wear old clothes as I was always getting grease dirt, oil or hydraulic fluid on me. Keep wrenching away!!!!
David T. Holcomb Yeah my socket lost the rubber insert many many years ago....that's the only reason I use a magnet. I feel some people are mechanically inclined and always want to learn more about things related. Even if it's not their profession. I work on my house A/C......fix the wash machine......fix flat screen TV's. If it's mechanical or something I can weld or hammer together then I try it. It's just part of my genetics and sounds like yours as well.
David T. Holcomb Yeah my socket lost the rubber insert many many years ago....that's the only reason I use a magnet. I feel some people are mechanically inclined and always want to learn more about things related. Even if it's not their profession. I work on my house A/C......fix the wash machine......fix flat screen TV's. If it's mechanical or something I can weld or hammer together then I try it. It's just part of my genetics and sounds like yours as well.
Appreciate the series you made. I'm watching it as many times as necessary to get it drilled into my skull. Turned it into a playlist as well. Keep on rocking! :D
Awesome! Thanks for checking the series out! Once you do this repair once or twice.....it becomes much more easier. Glad to see that the info is being put to use. Make sure to subscribe.
Muy bueno el vídeo estuve batallando para poner la banda pero con este vídeo mañana aplicaré estos pasos gracias por hacer las cosas como son sin esconder nada
Many thanks Morris for the kind words. I have been working on the same brand for 21 years so I have seen a few things related to them lol. Make sure to subscribe.
Best series of instructional videos for the PT Cruiser! At 4:12 its hard to see just what you are doing around that tensioner to get the belt over the edge of the pulley. Using your technique to apply torque to the intake sprocket caused the bolt to start loosening - not good - and I didn't have the strength to force the belt onto the pulley by hand. What worked for me was to use a shoe horn to create a nice "ramp" to get the one edge of the belt over the edge of the pulley then I used a wide steel bar reacting on the motor mount to push the belt into final position. A drop or two of dish detergent can help to lubricate the belt but I didn't need to do that.
Many thanks Andrew.....getting that belt on the pulley can be the hardest part sometimes, not sure why but some days it goes on easy and others its a fight!
@@MotorCityMechanic That and that heavy cast steel bracket. I have an '01 Cruiser and it has the old-style straight IAC valve and PCM connectors to the side. The wires to the IAC got damaged against the firewall when I had to raise the motor up high enough to get that bracket out. The PCM connectors also limited the amount of room to raise. 2003 and later Cruisers have more clearance in this area to resolve this problem.
@@canuckfixit7722 The a/c high pressure switch gets very close as well. Its a fine line on going just high enough and getting enough room to get access to those hard items for sure. Plus having skinny arms like me certainly helps lol
@@gradyhernandez4699 it's a bitch I've done a few but the one I'm doing now is kicking my butt I've noticed a slight play in my tensioner but the bearing is tight and smooth
I must say you were very helpful with little details I do have the common sense of how to do the job but I am used to Subaru so it's kind of different and thank you for your video I did get the job done and the car runs good
Thanks. BTW, the PT Cruisers sell really at a low price at the auto auctions. If you work with a dealer go to an auction and pick one out for yourself. They have a barcode id which should give you some history. I have been to the auction in Ocala, FL and the prices are low! Thanks again and good luck "Cruising"!
David T. Holcomb Thanks for that info. I keep my eyes open on Craigslist for those needing timing belts....at that point some uninformed mechanic tells them that the valves are bent so they let it go for a good price
@@MotorCityMechanic I bought this basket case And thinking they connected they battery up backwards as the fussable link was fried and radio the timing belt was destroyed I've installed a new belt and water pump kit now at 2000rpm has multiple miss fire. The kid said he he put on a new cam sensor I've checked the the injectors for proper spray seem ok has a p0300 code ?
@@MotorCityMechanic next time which will be in the not so distant future im planning on calling him. Lol. That was 80,000 miles ago now it's got 177,000 so I'm thinking of have to do the belt again at 200,000
Excellent, thank you. Question- Can you tell me what the correct ignition timing is if you are looking at a scanner reading? My 2001 2.4 pt cruiser timing is fluctuating between minus.01 and plus 20 on the scanner at 1200 rpms rough idle. Thank you sir!
I'm glad it helped. I appreciate you taking the time to comment and to watch the video series. Make sure to subscribe if you haven't already and help spread the word!
Hey MotorCity Mechanic great video thanks for explain the way you do, your video helped me out a lot!! I do have a quick question as I am new to all this stuff. I am doing my head gasket and when I got to the camshaft sprockets I notice that they are upside down? After making them in the exact place they were I have now taken the head off and was going to reinstall it, but was curious on how to get them on the correct way without messing everything up? If you could please shed some light on this subject, after doing my homework I see that the motor doesn't care but for the sake of doing it right Id like the camshaft sprockets be in the correct position. Thanks for any help, and keep up the great work on your videos!
John Pasto When reinstalling the head the cams need to be removed and installed afterwards. This way the head goes on with no issues with valves to pistons. Then rotate crank to line up timing mark and then install both cams and line up just like in the video. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
hello Motor city mech moving along with the timing belt doing a little at a time I followed your instructions for placing the belt around the crank water pump idler and gears there's not much give on the tensioner when I attempt to slip belt on it the crank moves off the mark any suggestions and again your video very helpful
Well, I am not sure what I am doing wrong. Have tensioner back as far as it will go, wrapped belt around just as you said, 4 hrs straight and belt still will not go on. Right on the brink, but will not push over. ☹
Would it be wise to just go ahead and replace that passenger side motor mount while you have every thing already apart? Just as preventive maintenance?
Hello, I have seen all your videos and follow all the steps, but the two marks in the middle are slightly up, almost nothing, but if I put a line you can see it. Do you think I did it wrong?
My son has been working on it for a while. He has had the marks lined up several times Still doesn’t run correctly. Move the marks it runs to a point but not making sense 😊
Have one more question and I know it may be hard to answer. My Cruiser lost the timing belt at 95,000 miles. My engine is still strong with good compression, I have previously replaced the main computer, the solenoid pack and the torque converter on the transmission and the usual plugs, brakes and struts. I really love to drive this car and want to keep it. Soooo, given I will have a new timing belt and water pump, can I expect many more miles subject to incidental maintenance or is it time to say good-bye while it's all running tip top? By the way, I found that the transmission was less "clunkie" and operated more smoothly with the new torque converter replacement. Keep up the good work!
David T. Holcomb They will always have minor issues here and there and as the mileage gets higher you always wonder about the trans. As some people say....it beats a car payment. You have touched on a lot of the common items already. I personally would keep driving and keep enjoying it. I would love one as a daily driver myself
thanks for the great video,regarding the timing belt tensioner wene i rotate the faceplate counter clockwise and go all the way,the pully moves aginst the belt but the setting notch does not move at all,already have the belt on and the marks lined up, the metalspring is secure in its notch but the setting plate is not moving forward any advise would be app thanks paul stevens
hello motor city mech my name is mike I'm about to start the pt crusier 2.4 the belts not broken I'm doing a pm if I mark everything where it is there should be no reason to line up crank or cams any recommendations thanks for the very detailed video
I highly recommend using the factory marks.....because even I don't get it right every time the first time. It's really no more work or effort to use the factory marks. I feel better about doing it this way but in the end it is your choice, I'm just giving my personal preference. I do appreciate you watching this video and it's cool to see you taking this task on yourself. Make sure to subscribe and update me on how it turns out.
Been watching your video to do the same job to my PT cruiser can you tell me why the cam lines would be off, I have the center lines together but the exhaust outer line is low not in line with the other 3. Thanks if you can help.
Did you have to replace the motor mount that is located somewhere close to the crankshaft, I saw you check the other motor mounts and the rubber parts were good. Where is that motor mount exactly located, I think all of the mounts are in need of repair on my PT along with replacing the belt and water pump.
The most common mounts to have issues are the upper and lower torque mounts that get removed during the repair. I havent seen the middle one go bad before. Its mounted in the frame rail and once you take everything off when doing the timing belt repair....you have access to unbolting it and removing it. Then you could inspect the mount and see if any obvious issues and replace if needed. But for the most part....being in the middle and having an upper and lower mount.....I dont see them fail.
Hello motor mech Mike here again everything good so far but I'm stuck on the balancer I broke an arm on my gear puller it was a harbor freight special, so I returned it went to Sears for a better puller which I have, any suggestions I had seen your pully came right off
I don't have many issues taking them off. Then again it could we your location/climate. Some my have corrosion or rust build up. Guess I have been lucky. Now I know not to buy any harbor freight pullers as back ups. Using some heat from a propane torch could help. Don't need a lot of heat but enough to help it free up. Just take care if using one to not over do it or damage anything with the flame
Thank you, im just about done. question if one pulley arrows are pointing down and one pulley is pointing up can any damage occur once engine is started?
+LEVENSKi Nelson Yeah you don't want to do that. They both have to be pointing up otherwise one of the camshafts is upside down. Do not start! That's the only time the valves will get bent....when some doesn't line the cams up correctly.
Have you done a turbo? Im trying to get the motor high enough to remove the large mount brkt not enough room to get the brkt out I jack it up all the way some of the brkts and things are in different places on the turbo 03 pt gt thanks great videos
I'm sure I have but my memory escapes me on any differences however. If I come across this repair I will try to let you know but I'm sure that info will come too little too late because it sounds like your in the middle of the repair as we speak. Make sure to subscribe!
MotorCity Mechanic, i have a 02 2.4 voyager with AA stamped on the Cam Cover. Should i align the cams as you outline, or is it different for earlier engines? Thank you
The cam sprockets should have arrows pointing up along with the word up. Make sure its in this position and then do you fine adjustment with making sure that the notches on the cam sprocket line up across the cam gears just like in the video. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
hello motor city mech wanted to thank you for the timing belt video I replaced the belt water pump idlers and tensioner, mounts. I went further with the car I had bad wheel bearings that I'm replacing and I'm going even further I'm changing the CV axels the car has high mileage is there any trick to removing the axels I can't seem to get the left Axel out any advice would be appreciated
+Mike Pass It can be a bit hard. Sometimes I can get a pry bar on one of ridges on the inner cv joint housing and get it to pop out. It takes a bit of trying before it comes loose. Glad to hear that it is back together. My hats off to you for taking on this job. You did well
hi i watch your videos and they encouraged me to try my water pump and timing belt replacement...got everything done but the timing belt is smoking when i run the engine..but i didnt play close attention to belt tensioner..i just put in on and pull the tensioner back with allen wrench.. i not sure what i need to do it never smoked before . any info would be greatly appreciated
Make sure there are no locked up timing belt pulleys such as the tensioner pulley or the idler pulley that is near the waterpump. Otherwise I have never come across this as of yet.
I did everything lined up the Mark's turned the engine over 2 turns and everything looked like it was aligned but when I went and crank it it didn't want to start when I took everything apart I turned the engine over to align the Mark's and they were not lined up any help? Maybe not tight enough?
Mine does the same thing I'm pretty sure the tensioner is faulty which could have caused the belt failure the spring portion is completely separated from the 1/4 drive adjuster which you are to alien the notched with but you can not and when you do tighten the center down and rotate the tensioner moves in and out that will give you a missaligned code as well as letting it jump
Howdy again. Couple questions if you have the time and would be so kind. I lined up the timing marks and they seemed to be on the first time. The tensioner is not the same type as you have in the vids, no obvious way to adjust it that I can tell, as far as marks, but it had a pin in it that you pull and it makes it tighter. Well when I pulled it, it makes it tighter and the crank mark looks just a tad left of the edge lining up (the arrow on the engine ends up left slightly left of the edge on the pully or mark, that is in the trough to the left). Any hows, I marked the pully and the belt and when I move it a notch in either direction it ends up way off. So first question is should the crank marks be that close or is a little off still good? Seems they should be close, maybe bad production belts? 2nd question is how do you know how to adjust these tensioners, or do you just pull the pin and they are already set?
Ah, I figured out why the crank is off setting here for a moment thinking about it, still not sure about the tensioner though. The one that came off is pretty much like the new one, no marks for alignment that I can see.
Some of the older PT cruisers had a spring loaded tensioner that you didnt have to adjust manually like the one in the video. You just rotated one direction to release the tension and then use tensioner pin or an allen wrench inserted into one of the holes in the tensioner pulley to keep it released. Then you just pull the pin or allen wrench once the belt is installed. So there were 2 different designs. I assume you have the other in this case
+MotorCity Mechanic Yeah, thank you for the reply. Found it by looking on the net, though it still wasn't that easy to find, leastwise as clarified as you did. Got it back together and it has been running great. One of the problems I had was that the belt didn't like to stay put. Them plastic squeeze clamps work great for that, as well the ps ac belt. Many thanks again for the vids.
Been along time since I saw that older design. Almost forgot it existed. Glad to hear that you got it back together and all is well. My hats off to you for taking this job on.
I have the older design tensioner(first design) all I have to do is pull the pin. do I still move the exhaust cam down half a tooth. Also when I try to pull the belt over the tensioner my crank moves out of position
You need to get everything as close as possible before pulling the pin....then rotate 2 times to see if all marks line up and then if not the remove tensioner....compress the end and reinsert the pin and try again.
Hi, I'm working on a non turbo 2007 PT Cruiser, bought a Gates water pump and timing belt kit with new idler and tensioner and tensioner bracket. I've been trying to get the timing belt on for HOURS, any tips? I just can't get the belt pulled over the tensioner, with tensioner at full slack. Have done timing belts on other cars, but this one is hard. Also the cam closer to radiator keeps going clockwise, I guess it's compression or valve spring pressure, then the crank gear moves easily when you pull on belt at cams, reminds me of the 3 Stooges where Curly or maybe Shemp was ironing pants that were curled, they would unroll it and try to hold the pants on the ironing board, but then both hands were occupied and couldn't iron. Lol
@@drfeelgood65chevy Sorry about the delay in getting back. It can be a pain sometimes. Typically I try to rotate the tensioner pulley to get just that little bit of room to install the belt. Not always easy for sure. Glad it worked out for you in the end. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe.
@@MotorCityMechanic I subscribed, had to look to see. Looking forward to the 350.00 pt cruiser project, saw the video where it has bent valves, and you might get a rebuilt head. Unless there were more episodes I didn't see?
@@drfeelgood65chevy I did about 4-5 videos so far on it from the purchase video to finding out what the cause was. Also I did the valve replacement series. I will be doing a follow up on what the final outcome was with the car and total price in parts. Just have to get around to it. Thanks for subscribing
+Clic Clark The turbo will be almost exactly the same. Everything on that side of the engine is the same so follow the steps and you will be okay. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
Once you remove the bolt holding the balanced to the crank....you have to insert a pin/rod in the end of the crank so that the puller has something to push against.
This job has been kicking my ass for two days at work and both the older techs are way too busy to help me out. This might save me tomorrow. Ill probably have it figured out by the time you answer but I got this job after a catastrophic failure of the water pump bearing that shredded the belt (on the highway no less) I have no way of knowing where the valves are in relation to the crank or each other but the customer wants to just throw the belt at it and try instead of taking the head apart. (makes no sense i know) I tried moving the cams together to the right spots at the same time but not sure if the valves never touched. Will I know right away after having the belt on that the head is fucked if i turn it over by hand?
Pavel Blokhin Hello Pavel......you will most likely find that the valves will be okay. I have not seen a bent valve on a 2.4 since they came out. I might one day be proved wrong but until then I will stand by my experiences. Have no fear.....take your time and it should turn out fine. It may take a few tries to get the timing marks to line up like they should be, heck I rarely get it right on the first try. After doing as many as I have.....I can knock a water pump/timing belt out in about 3-4 hours. I actually enjoy doing them because of the money that can be made. Only sure way to tell if the valve could have been bent is performing a cylinder leak down test with each cylinders valves closed while checking. Hopefully it didn't overheat before the waterpump failure. Doesn't take make to warp the head if ran hot enough and then lack of compression. Make sure to keep me up to date. Don't forget to subscribe and help spread the word by sharing these videos with others.
MotorCity Mechanic thanks for the speedy response! I am having difficulty getting the belt to slip over the tensioner i have it all the way recessed and its really close but im ripping my fingers up trying to get that sucker on. Any tips? I tried rocking the cams back and forth and it only got me so close.
there have been a few that I hard to fight to get on....other then not sliding it all the way on that last cam gear so that it might give you alittle more slack to slide of the smooth tensioner pulley. Some I don't have any real issues while others....well, its like your situation currently.
MotorCity Mechanic man handled that thing in. I ended up having to slide it over the exhaust cam with it on the tensioner and a workmate holding a big ass pry bar. time to button er up and see if she goes! Thanks for the help. Edit: last question: im putting the lower cover on and there are two brass holes on the leftside on top of one another. I have lost track of how i took it apart since it was 3 days ago lol i got two 15 mm bolts that seem to fit but they dont seem to wanna go in. What am i missing? Edit2: I just checked part 4 again they seem to be right. Guess ill run em home!
+LEVENSKi Nelson The cam gears don't use any arrows for timing marks, there are some arrows and the words this way up possible to make sure you have the gear on properly and then the notches in the gears have to form a line from one cam gear to the other. Basically an invisible line from center of one cam gear bolt to the center of the other cam gear bolt. The cam gear notches should line up with this invisible line. The crank gear does use an arrow and it a should line up with the arrow mark on the oil pump assembly just like in the diagram I showed in the video.
Yes all are on point keep in mind this is my second timing belt and water pump so i want to be right and you have helped me accomplish most of the job. I recall you say make sure the arrows are pointed up lol and I've fought the belt on and would hate to take it off.
Please help. My cam gears have 2 sets of marks. One on the left and another on the right. I can align the inter exhaust cam mark with the intake cam inter mark with no problem. When I put a straight edge across all sets of marks The exhaust cam outer and inter marks allow with the intake cam inter mark but the intake cam outer mark is about 0.24 inch below.
Stacey Mccullough Evening. With the gears there will be markings on the front showing 2.4 and an arrow that needs to point upward. Then you line the marks on the other edges and use the straight edge as mentioned. Then rotate the crank 2 complete turns and recheck. Don't forget how the crank mark is suppose to line up like I mentioned in the video.
The problem with the picture is that its taken at an angle and the cam bolts are deeper then the cam sprockets so it doesnt give an accurate view. Its best to look at the marks from the front of the vehicle and not the front of the engine. This way you can look down the straight edge and see the marks and bolts. Also....seeing an image of the crank mark and sprocket will help also.
jaeden amaral Actually it doesn't mean all the valves are closed. There will always be an exhaust or intake valve open during any given point of the cam shaft rotation. Keep in mind we have 4 cylinders. At certain points.....a particular cylinder will have both its exhaust and intake valves closed....just not all 4 cylinders at once.
Wow thnx for the reply......here's my situation.....this pt I'm working on, turn off on the freeway .....the result a broken timing belt........now I already removed the belt, & also the upper intake (throttle body) so I went ahead & lined up the sprockets, & put confessed air in cylinder #1 ....& lots of air is coming out of the intake ports? So my question is do you think it has bent valves....?
jaeden amaral The way I check is to remove the valve cover and look at the cam shafts to see where the lobes are. Then once I make sure all one specific cylinders valves are closed, then I use a leak down tester which is basically what your doing when you put air in the cylinder except it has 2 gauges so that you can tell how much leakage. I can say that I have never found any bent valves and feel that you will be fine. If you want to satisfy your curiosity then remove the valve cover like I mentioned
Hey motorcity mechanic. Just finished putting the timing belt on my 05 wrangler. ( we spoke last week )I just remembered I tourqued the idler pulley to 45ft lbs. is this what it's supposed to be. I can't find where I got this from
The marks should be right on....if they are off then you need to remove the belt and correct. Usually being off 1 tooth wouldnt cause it to cut off. Once you get the belt exactly where it needs to be.....then recheck. You may have other issues as well.
I THINK the catlic converter maybe clogging i smell it a lil the belt broke in mid flight .i did the water pump as well she runs but when i stop fast it kills .i will sell both pt,s i have 1 won,t run thanks for your time and your video it did help
Gas wont go bad that fast....not in 3 weeks. It could be a few different things but getting that timing correct is very important. Thanks for watching.
These videos are awesome! Thank you! I'm feeling far more confident at tackling this job now. One question that I haven't seen you address: which way do you turn the crankshaft? Clockwise or counter-clockwise? I've heard it's bad to turn it the wrong way so I figured I would ask before I get that far.
Mark Stratton Hey there Mark. I recommend rotating the engine clockwise when doing the repair. Take your time and you will do fine. Don't get flustered if you don't line up the marks correctly the first time. It can take a few tries to get it right. Make sure to subscribe and help spread the word by sharing these videos with others. Have a great 4th as well!
MotorCity Mechanic Oh...haha...you DO say clockwise in the video. Tried to get the belt on today and just got mad and frustrated with it. Try again tomorrow.
Mark Stratton Morning Mark. Sometimes that belt can be tight as hell trying to get it over the tensioner. Just make sure the tensioner is rotated enough to allow you to slide it over it.
The belt is very hard to get on the style without the pin is a very stupid design because it tend to trick the mechanic thinking the quarter inch square is all your going to get left side of the tension pulley there is the little trigger sticking out push it with your finger and hold it belt will go in no struggle at all
OK. Well after having hip problems for the past week, I was finally able to get back to it. Being a mechanic for 21 yrs, I have to say that this is the most difficult task. Once I got everything lined up, the only way that belt would go on (for some reason) was to rotate the engine and roll it onto the tension pulley. Took a few attempts, but I got everything lined up. I want to thank you for this video, although I had to bend the rules, you helped me to make it work. Thanks again.
BEST VIDEO EVER!! on the WORST maintenance job ever. Clearly demonstrates timing belt off-on. this video will walk you through this job.
I just want to say thanks. It's taking me almost a year to do this project due to the car being outside and winter but you are saving me about 1700 dollars worth of work.
I will say the timing belt is easier if you have a helper to apply a little pressure on the top gears. Your tensioner was a little different than mine but I took mine off to get the belt in place then screwed the tensioner down. It was easier than trying to force the belt over the edge of the tensioner. Like you said though once I started rotating the tensioner it lined up and all the timing knotches aligned.
Thank you for the instructions. I am a retired mechanic from the dealerships and I am used to downloading instructions from motor alldata. I have never done a timing belt on a PT. Thanks for your knowledge.
For those who may have trouble getting the timing belt back on, I just completed this job today (3/23/17). The toughest part was getting the timing belt on right. If you listen carefully, the advice MotorCity Mechanic gives is as good as the steps he shows - you must be patient. It took me either four or five tries to get the belt on so that the sprockets lined up perfectly. It was tempting to move on when it was "close" just because of the difficulty. But it was also the difficulty of the whole job that made me remember his counsel to be patient, and keep trying, one step at a time. That proved invaluable as I finally did it to where it landed right after cranking two revolutions.
If there is one step you need to spend time on.....the timing marks is that moment. Otherwise you will be doing the job all over again until you get it right.
MotorCity Mechanic what If the camshaft pulley mark doesn't match with the mark in the engine but the 2 pulleys on the top match with the marks
@Conan H I'm sorry man, I feel ya! You can do it!
@@MotorCityMechanic Thanks for emphasizing that. Fortunately, I remembered and it saves me the trouble others had because they didn't remember, or thought close was good enough.
I really feel for those who had to redo it.for us DIYers, it's way more difficult, I'm sure than for you pros.
Thanks again for making these videos!
I also watched your video on changing plugs which I have done. I followed the same procedure you did. One extra tidbit though, you need a plug socket with the rubber in it to grab the plug out. But I figure you already know that. I forgot to tell you I also replaced the the multi-use switch, not by me though.
One reason I have such an appreciation for mechanics is I am a commercial pilot who used to fly piston twins. I always worked with our mechanics as a humble helper and learned a lot about keeping those engines purring. My boss always appreciated my checking everything before and after the flights. He used to let me wear old clothes as I was always getting grease dirt, oil or hydraulic fluid on me.
Keep wrenching away!!!!
David T. Holcomb Yeah my socket lost the rubber insert many many years ago....that's the only reason I use a magnet. I feel some people are mechanically inclined and always want to learn more about things related. Even if it's not their profession. I work on my house A/C......fix the wash machine......fix flat screen TV's. If it's mechanical or something I can weld or hammer together then I try it. It's just part of my genetics and sounds like yours as well.
David T. Holcomb Yeah my socket lost the rubber insert many many years ago....that's the only reason I use a magnet. I feel some people are mechanically inclined and always want to learn more about things related. Even if it's not their profession. I work on my house A/C......fix the wash machine......fix flat screen TV's. If it's mechanical or something I can weld or hammer together then I try it. It's just part of my genetics and sounds like yours as well.
One of the best instructional video's I've watched. Excellent job and thank you.
Appreciate the series you made. I'm watching it as many times as necessary to get it drilled into my skull. Turned it into a playlist as well. Keep on rocking! :D
Awesome! Thanks for checking the series out! Once you do this repair once or twice.....it becomes much more easier. Glad to see that the info is being put to use. Make sure to subscribe.
All your videos are great, been subscribed and watching for years💯
definitely thank you for taking the time to make this video I skip through a lot of it but it was very helpful
Cool. Thanks for the kind words. Glad the video helped you out. Don't forget to subscribe!
Muy bueno el vídeo estuve batallando para poner la banda pero con este vídeo mañana aplicaré estos pasos gracias por hacer las cosas como son sin esconder nada
Very good really great He does a super job of showing so you can understand ,Thank you I think you know mopar front & backward
Many thanks Morris for the kind words. I have been working on the same brand for 21 years so I have seen a few things related to them lol. Make sure to subscribe.
Best series of instructional videos for the PT Cruiser! At 4:12 its hard to see just what you are doing around that tensioner to get the belt over the edge of the pulley. Using your technique to apply torque to the intake sprocket caused the bolt to start loosening - not good - and I didn't have the strength to force the belt onto the pulley by hand. What worked for me was to use a shoe horn to create a nice "ramp" to get the one edge of the belt over the edge of the pulley then I used a wide steel bar reacting on the motor mount to push the belt into final position. A drop or two of dish detergent can help to lubricate the belt but I didn't need to do that.
Many thanks Andrew.....getting that belt on the pulley can be the hardest part sometimes, not sure why but some days it goes on easy and others its a fight!
@@MotorCityMechanic That and that heavy cast steel bracket. I have an '01 Cruiser and it has the old-style straight IAC valve and PCM connectors to the side. The wires to the IAC got damaged against the firewall when I had to raise the motor up high enough to get that bracket out. The PCM connectors also limited the amount of room to raise. 2003 and later Cruisers have more clearance in this area to resolve this problem.
@@canuckfixit7722 The a/c high pressure switch gets very close as well. Its a fine line on going just high enough and getting enough room to get access to those hard items for sure. Plus having skinny arms like me certainly helps lol
MCM, you are an automotive artist. Thank you.
Your welcome and thank you as well
Im doing a 2005 pt currently and i "rewind" video mare than once( __Especially that tensioner part !)
@@gradyhernandez4699 it's a bitch I've done a few but the one I'm doing now is kicking my butt I've noticed a slight play in my tensioner but the bearing is tight and smooth
@@jamesblackwell703 they say it depends on the VIN numbers on pt cruisers. ( To set timing marks)
@@jamesblackwell703 what year is the pt Cruiser you're working on?
I must say you were very helpful with little details I do have the common sense of how to do the job but I am used to Subaru so it's kind of different and thank you for your video I did get the job done and the car runs good
Very informative video awesome job explaining doing the timing belt
Thanks. It’s a big job especially if it’s your first time
Great video very informative, it will be a lot of help when I get this project started. Thanks
Your welcome! Thanks for the comment. Dont forget to subscribe and have a great weekend.
Thanks. BTW, the PT Cruisers sell really at a low price at the auto auctions. If you work with a dealer go to an auction and pick one out for yourself. They have a barcode id which should give you some history.
I have been to the auction in Ocala, FL and the prices are low!
Thanks again and good luck "Cruising"!
David T. Holcomb Thanks for that info. I keep my eyes open on Craigslist for those needing timing belts....at that point some uninformed mechanic tells them that the valves are bent so they let it go for a good price
Thank you thank you thank you for explaining the tensioner just subscribed
Your welcome James!
@@MotorCityMechanic I bought this basket case And thinking they connected they battery up backwards as the fussable link was fried and radio the timing belt was destroyed I've installed a new belt and water pump kit now at 2000rpm has multiple miss fire. The kid said he he put on a new cam sensor I've checked the the injectors for proper spray seem ok has a p0300 code ?
Yup. My buddy stopped over when I was doing mine and held the cams for me
Another set of hands sure helps out for sure.
@@MotorCityMechanic next time which will be in the not so distant future im planning on calling him. Lol. That was 80,000 miles ago now it's got 177,000 so I'm thinking of have to do the belt again at 200,000
Yeah try to stay around that 100,000 mile mark and you should be okay.
Awesome vid, very detailed info so I know what I'm doing and why I'm doing it.
Is there a tool to help get the belt on over the tensioner your video has been very helpful?
Excellent, thank you. Question- Can you tell me what the correct ignition timing is if you are looking at a scanner reading? My 2001 2.4 pt cruiser timing is fluctuating between minus.01 and plus 20 on the scanner at 1200 rpms rough idle. Thank you sir!
Very technical. Thank you.
Your welcome!
Thanks for putting this up it helped out alot..
I'm glad it helped. I appreciate you taking the time to comment and to watch the video series. Make sure to subscribe if you haven't already and help spread the word!
Great info. Thanks 👍
thanks I kinda figured it out your advice is appreciated
Your welcome and thank you for watching
Hey
MotorCity Mechanic great video thanks for explain the way you do, your video helped me out a lot!! I do have a quick question as I am new to all this stuff. I am doing my head gasket and when I got to the camshaft sprockets I notice that they are upside down? After making them in the exact place they were I have now taken the head off and was going to reinstall it, but was curious on how to get them on the correct way without messing everything up? If you could please shed some light on this subject, after doing my homework I see that the motor doesn't care but for the sake of doing it right Id like the camshaft sprockets be in the correct position. Thanks for any help, and keep up the great work on your videos!
John Pasto When reinstalling the head the cams need to be removed and installed afterwards. This way the head goes on with no issues with valves to pistons. Then rotate crank to line up timing mark and then install both cams and line up just like in the video. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
hello Motor city mech moving along with the timing belt doing a little at a time I followed your instructions for placing the belt around the crank water pump idler and gears there's not much give on the tensioner when I attempt to slip belt on it the crank moves off the mark any suggestions and again your video very helpful
Very educational well explained
Well, I am not sure what I am doing wrong. Have tensioner back as far as it will go, wrapped belt around just as you said, 4 hrs straight and belt still will not go on. Right on the brink, but will not push over. ☹
Would it be wise to just go ahead and replace that passenger side motor mount while you have every thing already apart? Just as preventive maintenance?
Hello, I have seen all your videos and follow all the steps, but the two marks in the middle are slightly up, almost nothing, but if I put a line you can see it. Do you think I did it wrong?
My son has been working on it for a while. He has had the marks lined up several times Still doesn’t run correctly. Move the marks it runs to a point but not making sense 😊
excellent video! thanks so much for posting this!
+bob beal Thank you Bob for watching these videos. The comment is appreciated and don't forget to subscribe!
What's the torque sequence for putting everything back together?
Great video!!!
Thanks Mark. Appreciate the kind words. Make sure to subscribe
Have one more question and I know it may be hard to answer. My Cruiser lost the timing belt at 95,000 miles. My engine is still strong with good compression, I have previously replaced the main computer, the solenoid pack and the torque converter on the transmission and the usual plugs, brakes and struts. I really love to drive this car and want to keep it. Soooo, given I will have a new timing belt and water pump, can I expect many more miles subject to incidental maintenance or is it time to say good-bye while it's all running tip top? By the way, I found that the transmission was less "clunkie" and operated more smoothly with the new torque converter replacement.
Keep up the good work!
David T. Holcomb They will always have minor issues here and there and as the mileage gets higher you always wonder about the trans. As some people say....it beats a car payment. You have touched on a lot of the common items already. I personally would keep driving and keep enjoying it. I would love one as a daily driver myself
thanks for the great video,regarding the timing belt tensioner wene i rotate the faceplate counter clockwise and go all the way,the pully moves aginst the belt but the setting notch does not move at all,already have the belt on and the marks lined up, the metalspring is secure in its notch but the setting plate is not moving forward any advise would be app thanks paul stevens
Thank you
dagblodbane Thank you for watching. Make sure to subscribe
Thank you so much, great video lots of great info
+Steven Romero Thanks Steven. I always appreciate the feedback. Don't forget to subscribe
Once you get the belt on and in time when can you test start it
hello motor city mech my name is mike I'm about to start the pt crusier 2.4 the belts not broken I'm doing a pm if I mark everything where it is there should be no reason to line up crank or cams any recommendations thanks for the very detailed video
I highly recommend using the factory marks.....because even I don't get it right every time the first time. It's really no more work or effort to use the factory marks. I feel better about doing it this way but in the end it is your choice, I'm just giving my personal preference. I do appreciate you watching this video and it's cool to see you taking this task on yourself. Make sure to subscribe and update me on how it turns out.
Been watching your video to do the same job to my PT cruiser can you tell me why the cam lines would be off, I have the center lines together but the exhaust outer line is low not in line with the other 3. Thanks if you can help.
Did you have to replace the motor mount that is located somewhere close to the crankshaft, I saw you check the other motor mounts and the rubber parts were good. Where is that motor mount exactly located, I think all of the mounts are in need of repair on my PT along with replacing the belt and water pump.
The most common mounts to have issues are the upper and lower torque mounts that get removed during the repair. I havent seen the middle one go bad before. Its mounted in the frame rail and once you take everything off when doing the timing belt repair....you have access to unbolting it and removing it. Then you could inspect the mount and see if any obvious issues and replace if needed. But for the most part....being in the middle and having an upper and lower mount.....I dont see them fail.
Hello motor mech Mike here again everything good so far but I'm stuck on the balancer I broke an arm on my gear puller it was a harbor freight special, so I returned it went to Sears for a better puller which I have, any suggestions I had seen your pully came right off
I don't have many issues taking them off. Then again it could we your location/climate. Some my have corrosion or rust build up. Guess I have been lucky. Now I know not to buy any harbor freight pullers as back ups. Using some heat from a propane torch could help. Don't need a lot of heat but enough to help it free up. Just take care if using one to not over do it or damage anything with the flame
Thank you, im just about done. question if one pulley arrows are pointing down and one pulley is pointing up can any damage occur once engine is started?
+LEVENSKi Nelson Yeah you don't want to do that. They both have to be pointing up otherwise one of the camshafts is upside down. Do not start! That's the only time the valves will get bent....when some doesn't line the cams up correctly.
Have you done a turbo?
Im trying to get the motor high enough to remove the large mount brkt
not enough room to get the brkt out I jack it up all the way
some of the brkts and things are in different places on the turbo
03 pt gt
thanks great videos
I'm sure I have but my memory escapes me on any differences however. If I come across this repair I will try to let you know but I'm sure that info will come too little too late because it sounds like your in the middle of the repair as we speak. Make sure to subscribe!
MotorCity Mechanic, i have a 02 2.4 voyager with AA stamped on the Cam Cover. Should i align the cams as you outline, or is it different for earlier engines? Thank you
The cam sprockets should have arrows pointing up along with the word up. Make sure its in this position and then do you fine adjustment with making sure that the notches on the cam sprocket line up across the cam gears just like in the video. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
hello motor city mech wanted to thank you for the timing belt video I replaced the belt water pump idlers and tensioner, mounts. I went further with the car I had bad wheel bearings that I'm replacing and I'm going even further I'm changing the CV axels the car has high mileage is there any trick to removing the axels I can't seem to get the left Axel out any advice would be appreciated
+Mike Pass It can be a bit hard. Sometimes I can get a pry bar on one of ridges on the inner cv joint housing and get it to pop out. It takes a bit of trying before it comes loose. Glad to hear that it is back together. My hats off to you for taking on this job. You did well
hi i watch your videos and they encouraged me to try my water pump and timing belt replacement...got everything done but the timing belt is smoking when i run the engine..but i didnt play close attention to belt tensioner..i just put in on and pull the tensioner back with allen wrench.. i not sure what i need to do it never smoked before . any info would be greatly appreciated
Make sure there are no locked up timing belt pulleys such as the tensioner pulley or the idler pulley that is near the waterpump. Otherwise I have never come across this as of yet.
Great
I did everything lined up the Mark's turned the engine over 2 turns and everything looked like it was aligned but when I went and crank it it didn't want to start when I took everything apart I turned the engine over to align the Mark's and they were not lined up any help? Maybe not tight enough?
Mine does the same thing I'm pretty sure the tensioner is faulty which could have caused the belt failure the spring portion is completely separated from the 1/4 drive adjuster which you are to alien the notched with but you can not and when you do tighten the center down and rotate the tensioner moves in and out that will give you a missaligned code as well as letting it jump
Howdy again. Couple questions if you have the time and would be so kind. I lined up the timing marks and they seemed to be on the first time. The tensioner is not the same type as you have in the vids, no obvious way to adjust it that I can tell, as far as marks, but it had a pin in it that you pull and it makes it tighter. Well when I pulled it, it makes it tighter and the crank mark looks just a tad left of the edge lining up (the arrow on the engine ends up left slightly left of the edge on the pully or mark, that is in the trough to the left).
Any hows, I marked the pully and the belt and when I move it a notch in either direction it ends up way off. So first question is should the crank marks be that close or is a little off still good? Seems they should be close, maybe bad production belts?
2nd question is how do you know how to adjust these tensioners, or do you just pull the pin and they are already set?
Ah, I figured out why the crank is off setting here for a moment thinking about it, still not sure about the tensioner though. The one that came off is pretty much like the new one, no marks for alignment that I can see.
Some of the older PT cruisers had a spring loaded tensioner that you didnt have to adjust manually like the one in the video. You just rotated one direction to release the tension and then use tensioner pin or an allen wrench inserted into one of the holes in the tensioner pulley to keep it released. Then you just pull the pin or allen wrench once the belt is installed. So there were 2 different designs. I assume you have the other in this case
+MotorCity Mechanic Yeah, thank you for the reply. Found it by looking on the net, though it still wasn't that easy to find, leastwise as clarified as you did. Got it back together and it has been running great. One of the problems I had was that the belt didn't like to stay put. Them plastic squeeze clamps work great for that, as well the ps ac belt. Many thanks again for the vids.
Been along time since I saw that older design. Almost forgot it existed. Glad to hear that you got it back together and all is well. My hats off to you for taking this job on.
I have the older design tensioner(first design) all I have to do is pull the pin. do I still move the exhaust cam down half a tooth. Also when I try to pull the belt over the tensioner my crank moves out of position
You need to get everything as close as possible before pulling the pin....then rotate 2 times to see if all marks line up and then if not the remove tensioner....compress the end and reinsert the pin and try again.
Excellent series! sub'd
Much appreciated!
holy crap ok. thank you
+LEVENSKi Nelson Your very much welcome.
Hi, I'm working on a non turbo 2007 PT Cruiser, bought a Gates water pump and timing belt kit with new idler and tensioner and tensioner bracket.
I've been trying to get the timing belt on for HOURS, any tips?
I just can't get the belt pulled over the tensioner, with tensioner at full slack.
Have done timing belts on other cars, but this one is hard.
Also the cam closer to radiator keeps going clockwise, I guess it's compression or valve spring pressure, then the crank gear moves easily when you pull on belt at cams, reminds me of the 3 Stooges where Curly or maybe Shemp was ironing pants that were curled, they would unroll it and try to hold the pants on the ironing board, but then both hands were occupied and couldn't iron. Lol
Ok I got it.
@@drfeelgood65chevy Sorry about the delay in getting back. It can be a pain sometimes. Typically I try to rotate the tensioner pulley to get just that little bit of room to install the belt. Not always easy for sure. Glad it worked out for you in the end. Thanks for watching and make sure to subscribe.
@@MotorCityMechanic I subscribed, had to look to see. Looking forward to the 350.00 pt cruiser project, saw the video where it has bent valves, and you might get a rebuilt head.
Unless there were more episodes I didn't see?
@@drfeelgood65chevy I did about 4-5 videos so far on it from the purchase video to finding out what the cause was. Also I did the valve replacement series. I will be doing a follow up on what the final outcome was with the car and total price in parts. Just have to get around to it. Thanks for subscribing
Does all the steps you're teaching apply to a PT Cruiser with turbo?
+Clic Clark The turbo will be almost exactly the same. Everything on that side of the engine is the same so follow the steps and you will be okay. Thanks for the question and make sure to subscribe
also this is Mike again do I need to put a rod in the center of the bolt hole or does the gear puller bolt push off of the surface of the balancer
Once you remove the bolt holding the balanced to the crank....you have to insert a pin/rod in the end of the crank so that the puller has something to push against.
This job has been kicking my ass for two days at work and both the older techs are way too busy to help me out. This might save me tomorrow. Ill probably have it figured out by the time you answer but I got this job after a catastrophic failure of the water pump bearing that shredded the belt (on the highway no less) I have no way of knowing where the valves are in relation to the crank or each other but the customer wants to just throw the belt at it and try instead of taking the head apart. (makes no sense i know) I tried moving the cams together to the right spots at the same time but not sure if the valves never touched. Will I know right away after having the belt on that the head is fucked if i turn it over by hand?
Pavel Blokhin Hello Pavel......you will most likely find that the valves will be okay. I have not seen a bent valve on a 2.4 since they came out. I might one day be proved wrong but until then I will stand by my experiences. Have no fear.....take your time and it should turn out fine. It may take a few tries to get the timing marks to line up like they should be, heck I rarely get it right on the first try. After doing as many as I have.....I can knock a water pump/timing belt out in about 3-4 hours. I actually enjoy doing them because of the money that can be made. Only sure way to tell if the valve could have been bent is performing a cylinder leak down test with each cylinders valves closed while checking. Hopefully it didn't overheat before the waterpump failure. Doesn't take make to warp the head if ran hot enough and then lack of compression. Make sure to keep me up to date. Don't forget to subscribe and help spread the word by sharing these videos with others.
MotorCity Mechanic thanks for the speedy response! I am having difficulty getting the belt to slip over the tensioner i have it all the way recessed and its really close but im ripping my fingers up trying to get that sucker on. Any tips? I tried rocking the cams back and forth and it only got me so close.
there have been a few that I hard to fight to get on....other then not sliding it all the way on that last cam gear so that it might give you alittle more slack to slide of the smooth tensioner pulley. Some I don't have any real issues while others....well, its like your situation currently.
MotorCity Mechanic man handled that thing in. I ended up having to slide it over the exhaust cam with it on the tensioner and a workmate holding a big ass pry bar. time to button er up and see if she goes! Thanks for the help.
Edit: last question: im putting the lower cover on and there are two brass holes on the leftside on top of one another. I have lost track of how i took it apart since it was 3 days ago lol i got two 15 mm bolts that seem to fit but they dont seem to wanna go in. What am i missing?
Edit2: I just checked part 4 again they seem to be right. Guess ill run em home!
They should be 2x13mm bolts...not 15mm. That may be why your having issues installing.
hey its Levenski I'm back if both cam shaft crank arrows aren't pointing up but make are perfect what will happen?
+LEVENSKi Nelson The cam gears don't use any arrows for timing marks, there are some arrows and the words this way up possible to make sure you have the gear on properly and then the notches in the gears have to form a line from one cam gear to the other. Basically an invisible line from center of one cam gear bolt to the center of the other cam gear bolt. The cam gear notches should line up with this invisible line. The crank gear does use an arrow and it a should line up with the arrow mark on the oil pump assembly just like in the diagram I showed in the video.
Yes all are on point keep in mind this is my second timing belt and water pump so i want to be right and you have helped me accomplish most of the job. I recall you say make sure the arrows are pointed up lol and I've fought the belt on and would hate to take it off.
+LEVENSKi Nelson Yeah those arrows are just to make sure you don't have the gear upside down that's all.
Please help. My cam gears have 2 sets of marks. One on the left and another on the right. I can align the inter exhaust cam mark with the intake cam inter mark with no problem. When I put a straight edge across all sets of marks The exhaust cam outer and inter marks allow with the intake cam inter mark but the intake cam outer mark is about 0.24 inch below.
Stacey Mccullough Evening. With the gears there will be markings on the front showing 2.4 and an arrow that needs to point upward. Then you line the marks on the other edges and use the straight edge as mentioned. Then rotate the crank 2 complete turns and recheck. Don't forget how the crank mark is suppose to line up like I mentioned in the video.
I checked with a straight edge. Could you please look at the photo I took
drive.google.com/file/d/0B7f7htLyCnEpV0JXb1FwaEdldGM/view?usp=sharing
The problem with the picture is that its taken at an angle and the cam bolts are deeper then the cam sprockets so it doesnt give an accurate view. Its best to look at the marks from the front of the vehicle and not the front of the engine. This way you can look down the straight edge and see the marks and bolts. Also....seeing an image of the crank mark and sprocket will help also.
question, once I line up the upper camshaft sprockets .....does that mean all the valves are closed?
jaeden amaral Actually it doesn't mean all the valves are closed. There will always be an exhaust or intake valve open during any given point of the cam shaft rotation. Keep in mind we have 4 cylinders. At certain points.....a particular cylinder will have both its exhaust and intake valves closed....just not all 4 cylinders at once.
Wow thnx for the reply......here's my situation.....this pt I'm working on, turn off on the freeway .....the result a broken timing belt........now I already removed the belt, & also the upper intake (throttle body) so I went ahead & lined up the sprockets, & put confessed air in cylinder #1 ....& lots of air is coming out of the intake ports? So my question is do you think it has bent valves....?
jaeden amaral The way I check is to remove the valve cover and look at the cam shafts to see where the lobes are. Then once I make sure all one specific cylinders valves are closed, then I use a leak down tester which is basically what your doing when you put air in the cylinder except it has 2 gauges so that you can tell how much leakage. I can say that I have never found any bent valves and feel that you will be fine. If you want to satisfy your curiosity then remove the valve cover like I mentioned
Hey motorcity mechanic. Just finished putting the timing belt on my 05 wrangler. ( we spoke last week )I just remembered I tourqued the idler pulley to 45ft lbs. is this what it's supposed to be. I can't find where I got this from
+kaspersky1090 Are we speaking of the timing belt idler pulley or the serpentine belt idler pulley?
Timing belt idler pulley
+MotorCity Mechanic You are correct on it being 45ft lbs
Perfect. Thank you!
kaspersky1090 Your very much welcome
When do you take pin out of tensioner
Once your sure you have everything lined up. Then once you do.....turn the crankshaft 2 rotations and then recheck the marks.
I DID THIS WITH THE OFFSET HALF A TOOTH AND IT RUNS BAD KEEPS CUTTING OFF .SO DO I NEED TO REDO THIS WITH THE TOOTHS LINED UP .
The marks should be right on....if they are off then you need to remove the belt and correct. Usually being off 1 tooth wouldnt cause it to cut off. Once you get the belt exactly where it needs to be.....then recheck. You may have other issues as well.
I THINK the catlic converter maybe clogging i smell it a lil the belt broke in mid flight .i did the water pump as well she runs but when i stop fast it kills .i will sell both pt,s i have 1 won,t run
thanks for your time and your video it did help
i also tink the gas may have went bad sitting up for 3 weeks ?
Gas wont go bad that fast....not in 3 weeks. It could be a few different things but getting that timing correct is very important. Thanks for watching.
These videos are awesome! Thank you! I'm feeling far more confident at tackling this job now.
One question that I haven't seen you address: which way do you turn the crankshaft? Clockwise or counter-clockwise? I've heard it's bad to turn it the wrong way so I figured I would ask before I get that far.
Mark Stratton Hey there Mark. I recommend rotating the engine clockwise when doing the repair. Take your time and you will do fine. Don't get flustered if you don't line up the marks correctly the first time. It can take a few tries to get it right. Make sure to subscribe and help spread the word by sharing these videos with others. Have a great 4th as well!
MotorCity Mechanic Thanks for the fast reply!
Mark Stratton any time....if you have any issues with the job feel free to ask
MotorCity Mechanic Oh...haha...you DO say clockwise in the video. Tried to get the belt on today and just got mad and frustrated with it. Try again tomorrow.
Mark Stratton Morning Mark. Sometimes that belt can be tight as hell trying to get it over the tensioner. Just make sure the tensioner is rotated enough to allow you to slide it over it.
The belt is very hard to get on the style without the pin is a very stupid design because it tend to trick the mechanic thinking the quarter inch square is all your going to get left side of the tension pulley there is the little trigger sticking out push it with your finger and hold it belt will go in no struggle at all
To change a simple water pump? That is rediculus.
definitely thank you for taking the time to make this video I skip through a lot of it but it was very helpful