Nice! I was watching to learn how to make PCB when I saw my logo off to the side of the template. Then it was like "duh. He's making the board for ME!" LOL!. COOL!
su pyrow btw again. It good to be in front of the camera more often. Makes a big difference mentally for people watching. I didn't think so at first, but it's true. Once you do, I think you'll get more subscribers.
greet job bob . love your showing your face brother . great video understood it a little bit well cause ive watched you do this 100000000 times lol . late nights with bob watching him work lol . its a blast . god bless you my friend .
great job su. I would have never known how to make a circuit board with out a drill and a magic marker. not that I've ever tried. you could make a big circuit board with your channel name and such in the middle. would make a very cool sign to. you are very bright my friend. most the stuff i know involves sandpaper or a hammer. so to see something like this it's art to me. thinking of etching my tools soon. using a car battery. stickers for the outlines. petroleum jelly and a cuetip connected to the bat with a wire. hard for me to describe. but etching is fun. cheers bud 👍
Hello Bob good video. I made my own single sided boards years ago were I used tracing paper and transfers to make the tracks. I found it better then hour counting holls in veraboard. I drove me nuts and could not get it right. good fun though. Thanks
Wow! Very impressive work! I do Jewelry work and that would be a cool concept. I am wait on the warm weather to finish my studio so I can make some coin rings and other Jewelry I use to work in the high end of the business at one time. To expensive to work in now. Due to the price of the metals. Thanks for the nice video. I did learn a lot.
Hi Bobby, I've never tried this. The last time I did something like this was in high school photography dark room with film and prints. Um thinkin of developing 16mm b&w movie film, only need a developing tank. I like how you show how to do this without much equiptment, the only fancy thing was the Dremel tool. I see those travel flat irons at junk stores often for a few bucks. Some PCBs from the 60s were pretty bad, the traces would lift off. I like working with PCBs, but my poor eyesight makes it hard to do modern micro surface mount. ICs are too small for a nearly blind guy, so I do the old 60s crap. I really enjoyed thia vid. Of course this takes a lot of time per PCB. Um still totally amazed about making IC chips. That microscopic stuff blows my mind. Don
When i was in my first year for electronics technician,we had a very heavy and pricey guilotine for shearing copper clad board,i use a reasonably heavy paper guilotine for A4 and it was around the same cost as a good roller cutter shear for paper,ecept the guilotine cuts copper clad easily,mill cutting glass board costs more to your lungs than any guilotine as the glass acts the same as asbestos,i'd get a paper guilotine from ebay mate,or make one from some tool steel or a flat leaf spring.
I like the oldskool, roughcut feel of your vids. Question: what brand of copper clad boards do you use? The cheapest available, or do you go with the higher-end, more expensive boards?
Thanks! I use quality boards from abcfab on ebay. been using him for years www.ebay.com/usr/abcfab. if I need 'Rodgers' boards for high frequency differential pairs, he has them in stock as well.
This is great! I had no idea I could make my own PCB. I think I can do everything in the video except the circuit design print out. How do I learn to do that part?
Is it best to use acetone or 70% alcohol to clean the PCB before applying the film? Is Sodium Hydroxide better to use than Sodium Carbonate for the developer? I tried with NaCO3 for 2 mins and did not get great results. I need to rub the board gently with my finger afterwards.
www.dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/amer/us/en/products/ei-transformation/documents/DEC-Riston-FX515-DataSheet.pdf the Datasheet says to use Sodium Carbonate and use an acid to clean the boards. i personally use 70% to clean and after developing, i find that rubbing with my fingers, until the broken down slippery layers are gone. it is 'supposed' to dissolve slowly.
You would need to do what I did. make a series of small boards and pick a distance that is comfortable for you to work with and have a timer starting at 30 seconds. do the next board at 60 and so on. then develop all the boards(with labels on the back, to know which is which) then decide.
How much temp you set on iron and how do you remove second layer of protective sheet... For me most of times while sheet comes out instead of protective sheet
i was just making a board using a modified laminator. the temperature on the hand iron: for plastic photoresist and soldermask. that i found to work well is: 150F for dry. 325F for paper toner
i use two small pieces of scotch tape, one applied diagonally on the corner, then the other piece of tape on the opposite side of the material, then carefully peel away from each other. one or the other will grab the protective sheet and it will separate.
@@supyrow right... That works while applying it to pcb. I am asking after exposure how do you remove 2nd protective sheet !!! I fail to remove every time :-(
@@chandelrohit1981 well, after exposure, it will pull right off, it should be easy enough to do with your fingers, i expose for 150seconds, remove the acetate and then the protective film. develop with sodium carbonate. etch. then remove the resist. if you forget to remove it and put it in the tank, just remove it from the tank, rinse well with water and continue the steps.
Hey Rocky, so sorry for the delay in response time. they are for sale. this particular board is a magnetic stirrer controller. email me sometime at sales@supyrow.com blank boards with soldermask go for $10.00 +s/h USD
Nice! I was watching to learn how to make PCB when I saw my logo off to the side of the template. Then it was like "duh. He's making the board for ME!" LOL!. COOL!
Yeah Larry!
ill have it shipped out Tuesday. ill let you know the tracking #
su pyrow Awesome! Btw, loved your outtakes. I do that all the time. This morning I did 10 takes on a single scene for a video.
su pyrow btw again. It good to be in front of the camera more often. Makes a big difference mentally for people watching. I didn't think so at first, but it's true. Once you do, I think you'll get more subscribers.
LOL yeah, its pretty easy to do
i believe your right Larry, it gives a personable aspect to things.
Ok. Have to comment again. This is the FIRST time that I've seen anyone make something for me that they gave me later. It's so cool.
Your welcome Larry. Be well!
That was a great thing you did for Larry, not many people like you around anymore, thanks for being such a great person. I subscribed to you too
Thank You David for the wonderful comment! That made my day!!! :)
greet job bob . love your showing your face brother . great video understood it a little bit well cause ive watched you do this 100000000 times lol . late nights with bob watching him work lol . its a blast . god bless you my friend .
lots of late nights..... lots
WOW!!!! Absolutely awesome!! Love the bloopers LOL!!!!! Cheers brother 🍻
Thanks Wild! had a good time with it!
yes sir, my buddy back at it, love the vids brother, cheers Dizzy.
Thanks! took a month to get back into the zone. im back baby
great job su. I would have never known how to make a circuit board with out a drill and a magic marker. not that I've ever tried. you could make a big circuit board with your channel name and such in the middle. would make a very cool sign to. you are very bright my friend. most the stuff i know involves sandpaper or a hammer. so to see something like this it's art to me. thinking of etching my tools soon. using a car battery. stickers for the outlines. petroleum jelly and a cuetip connected to the bat with a wire. hard for me to describe. but etching is fun. cheers bud 👍
That's not the first time we've seen those chemicals get ya bud. But what a nice professional board comes out. Nice one pal.
yeah, it happens.. :)
Hello Bob good video. I made my own single sided boards years ago
were I used tracing paper and transfers to make the tracks. I found it better then hour counting holls in veraboard. I drove me nuts and could not get it right. good fun though. Thanks
Wow! Very impressive work! I do Jewelry work and that would be a cool concept. I am wait on the warm weather to finish my studio so I can make some coin rings and other Jewelry I use to work in the high end of the business at one time. To expensive to work in now. Due to the price of the metals. Thanks for the nice video. I did learn a lot.
Thats great to hear Anna!
Glad you liked it!
Be Well!
Thanks Su. I have enough hobby's so I'll just send what I need done to you. "Ok lady's and Germs that how I...Oh fuck that shit" Ha ha ha ha
LAUGHING yeah, that was funny
Hi Bobby, I've never tried this. The last time I did something like this was in high school photography dark room with film and prints. Um thinkin of developing 16mm b&w movie film, only need a developing tank.
I like how you show how to do this without much equiptment, the only fancy thing was the Dremel tool. I see those travel flat irons at junk stores often for a few bucks. Some PCBs from the 60s were pretty bad, the traces would lift off.
I like working with PCBs, but my poor eyesight makes it hard to do modern micro surface mount. ICs are too small for a nearly blind guy, so I do the old 60s crap.
I really enjoyed thia vid. Of course this takes a lot of time per PCB. Um still totally amazed about making IC chips. That microscopic stuff blows my mind.
Don
yea the small is is very impressive, it gets smaller and smaller everyday!
When i was in my first year for electronics technician,we had a very heavy and pricey guilotine for shearing copper clad board,i use a reasonably heavy paper guilotine for A4 and it was around the same cost as a good roller cutter shear for paper,ecept the guilotine cuts copper clad easily,mill cutting glass board costs more to your lungs than any guilotine as the glass acts the same as asbestos,i'd get a paper guilotine from ebay mate,or make one from some tool steel or a flat leaf spring.
I like the oldskool, roughcut feel of your vids. Question: what brand of copper clad boards do you use? The cheapest available, or do you go with the higher-end, more expensive boards?
Thanks! I use quality boards from abcfab on ebay. been using him for years www.ebay.com/usr/abcfab. if I need 'Rodgers' boards for high frequency differential pairs, he has them in stock as well.
awesome love the bloopers lmfao great job bobby
ditto.
Yeah, i had fun with them too!
This is great! I had no idea I could make my own PCB. I think I can do everything in the video except the circuit design print out. How do I learn to do that part?
i use KiCad to design the board. just print out a mirrored copy with a laser printer and iron it on
Neat work Bobby. J.
Thanks Joe!
Is it best to use acetone or 70% alcohol to clean the PCB before applying the film? Is Sodium Hydroxide better to use than Sodium Carbonate for the developer? I tried with NaCO3 for 2 mins and did not get great results. I need to rub the board gently with my finger afterwards.
www.dupont.com/content/dam/dupont/amer/us/en/products/ei-transformation/documents/DEC-Riston-FX515-DataSheet.pdf
the Datasheet says to use Sodium Carbonate and use an acid to clean the boards. i personally use 70% to clean and after developing, i find that rubbing with my fingers, until the broken down slippery layers are gone. it is 'supposed' to dissolve slowly.
I have a 36W UV light tube. At a distance of 18cm, how long should I expose the board ?
You would need to do what I did. make a series of small boards and pick a distance that is comfortable for you to work with and have a timer starting at 30 seconds. do the next board at 60 and so on. then develop all the boards(with labels on the back, to know which is which) then decide.
@@supyrow Ok. Will try that.
How much temp you set on iron and how do you remove second layer of protective sheet... For me most of times while sheet comes out instead of protective sheet
i was just making a board using a modified laminator. the temperature on the hand iron: for plastic photoresist and soldermask. that i found to work well is: 150F for dry. 325F for paper toner
i use two small pieces of scotch tape, one applied diagonally on the corner, then the other piece of tape on the opposite side of the material, then carefully peel away from each other. one or the other will grab the protective sheet and it will separate.
@@supyrow right... That works while applying it to pcb. I am asking after exposure how do you remove 2nd protective sheet !!! I fail to remove every time :-(
@@chandelrohit1981 well, after exposure, it will pull right off, it should be easy enough to do with your fingers, i expose for 150seconds, remove the acetate and then the protective film. develop with sodium carbonate. etch. then remove the resist. if you forget to remove it and put it in the tank, just remove it from the tank, rinse well with water and continue the steps.
How much do you sell those?
Hey Rocky, so sorry for the delay in response time. they are for sale. this particular board is a magnetic stirrer controller. email me sometime at sales@supyrow.com blank boards with soldermask go for $10.00 +s/h USD
Hey dude what temperature have u used in the iron at the fisrt time?
ugh... i believe it was around 300F.. way too high..
su pyrow thx dude I'll try that heat :)
Nice work, you made it look easy.
Thanks buzz!
damn very interesting man 😎
Thanks Michael!