Installing our temporary electrical service for our property. The permanent service will be 200a. We are now just days away from having electricity at our property.
VERY familiar with those RV panels. I spent a lot of time inside those when I worked maintenance for the county parks department. Replaced a lot of sockets, GFCIs, and breakers in those things over the years.
Hello Scott, been watching you since you started on TH-cam. You are a class guy, and should be very proud of your accomplishments you and Kelly have completed on your new property! Your Solar system is Top notch "best of the best" ! Peace
You might want to think of buildking a pitch roof 3 feet either side to give shelter to the power box's keep rain & snow from get'n on it. Look'n Great! Be easy to do ply-wood & 2/4's! always, Tommy :-)
hello scott wow looking good you will soon have tempprary electrical service very very soon totally awesome for you and kelly both thanks for update and this video so until next video i'm about to watch i say so long for now take care from Randy.from ontario.canada .p.s please stay safe out there .
Very nice. Great progress. 100A for a temporary service should be fine. I put 100A on a neighbor's shed, for camper hookup, and 150A to my small cabin a few years ago. No need for 200A and easier to work with. When you build a house, you can use 200A if you want.
Here in FLA we have to use two ground rods six feet apart or better they can tie together and normally the feed comes in overhead so a normal pole is the standard the wires come out of the top of the meter can up the mast to at least 12 ft and rain cap out of the bottom of the meter can an exterior panel of whatever size all the new ones would be 200 amp if your doing it anyway may as well just have plenty for whatever may be on that lot in the future ..
It'll be great when you get the power in. I only had to trench 70 feet by hand and the electrical company did the 1/8 mile leading up to the green box in the yard. Hardest job I've ever had to do. But it was sure nice to not have to feed the gas generator any more. That first waffle in my toaster cost me just under $9 Grand.... but it sure was good....lol.
I did 250' by hand, but it was only 18" deep, in conduit. My job ended up free with the POCO, even though it extended the street line 1800 feet. I got two other new customers, and then a guy came on just a month ago which resulted in me and my neighbor getting back $3700 each - which is what we had to give the POCO. The POCO will probably never make any money on it - this is in the middle of nowhere and seasonal use.
@@donmoore7785 we have to go down 24 inches. Deeper if you want to run electrical over gas. In which case I believe it's 3 feet for gas and 2 feet for power. If anyone else wants both down the line and they want to hook on to my lines, then I will get money back on both. Unfortunately neighbors on both sides have both already so, no money coming my way....lol.
Cool, nice work, Scott. Had to google GFCI which is RCD (Residual Current Device) in Australia. You seem to be a man of many talents, a diesel mechanic, pilot and an electrician as well.
@@daviddavis7855 Interesting... Even 14-50 seems a bit hazardous, would have though that locking plugs/receptacles as used at the marinas or for generators would be preferred.
I use twist lock at the RV side. Expense is another thing, RV parks may have hundreds of sites, many 30A only. Cost of marina style would be much more. At least there is a safety ground on each.
Will you have 3 phase power to your planned shop? as some tools do require 3 phase power if your service offers it as another way is a rotary phase converter using a 10+ hp 3 phase motor as that will create the 3rd leg of the power. i see you temporarly got 100 amps of 120/240 volt single phase service. as im sure which vintage bus would require large tools for to weld, fabricate parts for your client's busses or trucks. be cool to do that.
For the people out there and think add a RV power from your house. This is (Temporary electrical service) so all receptacle need to be GFCI protection. if doing to your house is a permit electrical service and 50 amp and 30 amp Do not need GFCI protection. You are do a service feed to RV breaker panels
@@etripp111 Ok show in NEC article say that 50 amp and 30 amp need to be GFCI protection. recreational Vehicle parks 512.41 C Ground- fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection Where Provided, each 125-volt, single-phase, 15-or 20- ampere receptacle outlet Shall have Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel why no GFCI You get volt spike and on 30 amp and 50 amp you get Unbalance load. NEC say you can't have two GFCI protection on a same branch circuit. you have GFCI in the RV
@@etripp111 You can look up on internet show the 30- and 50-amp circuits feeding the RV are NOT required to have GFCI protection. Preventing the inclusion of GFCI protection of 30- and 50-amp RV site circuits is a big deal and operators need help to prevent a future push to include them by GFCI protecting circuits that should be protected.
I suggest you add a disconnect between the meter and breaker box. At some point you're going to want to add another branch circuit. But, without a disconnect you'll either have to risk working on the box while it's hot (not a problem if you're a professional electrician, but you're not a pro), or you'll have to call the power company to pull the meter and then re-install the meter.
TEMPORARY Service. Its fine. 100a less than 6 circuits does not require shut off. It’s all good. Also no plan to add any circuits 200a will be going to the shop
@@BusGreaseMonkey I understand it's not required. I'm just saying sometimes temporary lasts a lot longer than anyone expects - life intervenes and causes plans to change.
@@BusGreaseMonkey I was wondering about the need for a main breaker/disconnect as well. Not being a troll, I'm an electrician in Canada for 19 years. Of course codes and regulations vary by state/country. Your workmanship looks pretty good for a do-it-yourselfer. Congrats on passing your inspection.
Nahhh just cut the tab off and pull the meter do your thing and put it back in service at least here it's no problem unless when they do come to read they see something that's just out of the question the smart meters report back a service interruption and if the power company does send someone out it's days later and the electrician needed to do some work is good
Genuine question - as your solar rig is so good, and produces surplus power, why do you need grid electricity also? I guess running shop equipment down the line?
I am surprised they required GFCI for the RV plugs. Will the internet company connect you up with temporary power? My company wanted permanent power to the ONT box. It would be sweet to have internet with your temporary power. I hope you get lucky!
NO MAIN BREAKER OR FUSSIBLE DISCONECT? In california its required . But codes are different across the u s, Even though we all use the n e c , the local utility and local building department also have there own requirements , so only a local would know whats required there . Good luck
is the JHA inspector allowing the exposed & above ground PVC because it temporary? or maybe your going to protect from physical and UV damage later? again, just curious!!!
The grey pipe in lieu of white PVC is uv protected and depending on where it's located if there's any way a vehicle could hit it parking lot etc it requires posts if it's not near any vehicle traffic it's not needed who's going to drive into it ??
VERY familiar with those RV panels. I spent a lot of time inside those when I worked maintenance for the county parks department. Replaced a lot of sockets, GFCIs, and breakers in those things over the years.
Hello Scott, been watching you since you started on TH-cam. You are a class guy, and should be very proud of your accomplishments you and Kelly have completed on your new property! Your Solar system is Top notch "best of the best" ! Peace
You might want to think of buildking a pitch roof 3 feet either side to give shelter to the power box's keep rain & snow from get'n on it. Look'n Great! Be easy to do ply-wood & 2/4's! always, Tommy :-)
Nice work I know it will be nice to have some power on the property.
hello scott wow looking good you will soon have tempprary electrical service very very soon totally awesome for you and kelly both thanks for update and this video so until next video i'm about to watch i say so long for now take care from Randy.from ontario.canada .p.s please stay safe out there .
Good job on setup and inspection👍
hi scott an kelly nice job scott stay safe out by all you guys
Very nice. Great progress. 100A for a temporary service should be fine. I put 100A on a neighbor's shed, for camper hookup, and 150A to my small cabin a few years ago. No need for 200A and easier to work with. When you build a house, you can use 200A if you want.
Very. Nice. Work !
Here in FLA we have to use two ground rods six feet apart or better they can tie together and normally the feed comes in overhead so a normal pole is the standard the wires come out of the top of the meter can up the mast to at least 12 ft and rain cap out of the bottom of the meter can an exterior panel of whatever size all the new ones would be 200 amp if your doing it anyway may as well just have plenty for whatever may be on that lot in the future ..
I'm in the UK and I love it 😎
FYI, you only bond neutral to ground in one location.
Power to the People!
great job
Grounding wire: #4 copper. Typically bare. Use the green box bonding screw that came with the box.
Congratulations
Like you said The picture did not show Whole story I'm happy you pass electrical inspection.
We have 5 acres in NC we had that temporary power for 20 years. We have a trailer on our property and pay $55.00 a month.
How? We need that haha
yay progress thats good :)
It'll be great when you get the power in. I only had to trench 70 feet by hand and the electrical company did the 1/8 mile leading up to the green box in the yard. Hardest job I've ever had to do. But it was sure nice to not have to feed the gas generator any more. That first waffle in my toaster cost me just under $9 Grand.... but it sure was good....lol.
I did 250' by hand, but it was only 18" deep, in conduit. My job ended up free with the POCO, even though it extended the street line 1800 feet. I got two other new customers, and then a guy came on just a month ago which resulted in me and my neighbor getting back $3700 each - which is what we had to give the POCO. The POCO will probably never make any money on it - this is in the middle of nowhere and seasonal use.
@@donmoore7785 we have to go down 24 inches. Deeper if you want to run electrical over gas. In which case I believe it's 3 feet for gas and 2 feet for power. If anyone else wants both down the line and they want to hook on to my lines, then I will get money back on both. Unfortunately neighbors on both sides have both already so, no money coming my way....lol.
"Power by the end of the week" and internet??
Have your thought about hooking up Lenny to the grid and feeding power back thus getting credit from the electric company?
Cool, nice work, Scott. Had to google GFCI which is RCD (Residual Current Device) in Australia. You seem to be a man of many talents, a diesel mechanic, pilot and an electrician as well.
Looks great! Can't believe there are RVs that still use TT-30.
Probably a majority use TT-30. 50A is used on class A's mostly for two A/C's. Trailers and class C's almost all use 30-TT
Many of the rv’s i work on were converted in the 70-80’s. I don’t even think 50a plugs were used back then for rv’s
@@daviddavis7855 Interesting... Even 14-50 seems a bit hazardous, would have though that locking plugs/receptacles as used at the marinas or for generators would be preferred.
@@BusGreaseMonkey Probably not, NEMA 14-50 came in the early '90s, right? Many RV parks still have TT-30 and regular NEMA 5-15 120V only.
I use twist lock at the RV side. Expense is another thing, RV parks may have hundreds of sites, many 30A only. Cost of marina style would be much more.
At least there is a safety ground on each.
Don't you have to have a main disconnect breaker?
Who Made the RV panel?
Haha, I noticed that junction cap hanging loose in the community post.
Will you have 3 phase power to your planned shop? as some tools do require 3 phase power if your service offers it as another way is a rotary phase converter using a 10+ hp 3 phase motor as that will create the 3rd leg of the power. i see you temporarly got 100 amps of 120/240 volt single phase service. as im sure which vintage bus would require large tools for to weld, fabricate parts for your client's busses or trucks. be cool to do that.
+ $20,000 more for 3 phase. So no
For the people out there and think add a RV power from your house. This is (Temporary electrical service) so all receptacle need to be GFCI protection. if doing to your house is a permit electrical service and 50 amp and 30 amp Do not need
GFCI protection. You are do a service feed to RV breaker panels
Not true.
@@etripp111 Ok show in NEC article say that 50 amp and 30 amp need to be GFCI protection. recreational Vehicle parks 512.41 C Ground- fault Circuit-Interrupter Protection Where Provided, each 125-volt, single-phase, 15-or 20- ampere receptacle outlet Shall have Ground-fault circuit-interrupter protection for personnel
why no GFCI You get volt spike and on 30 amp and 50 amp you get Unbalance load. NEC say you can't have two GFCI protection on a same branch circuit. you have GFCI in the RV
@@etripp111 You can look up on internet show
the 30- and 50-amp circuits feeding the RV are NOT required to have GFCI protection. Preventing the inclusion of GFCI protection of 30- and 50-amp RV site circuits is a big deal and operators need help to prevent a future push to include them by GFCI protecting circuits that should be protected.
Where's the ground rod.. ??????
I suggest you add a disconnect between the meter and breaker box. At some point you're going to want to add another branch circuit. But, without a disconnect you'll either have to risk working on the box while it's hot (not a problem if you're a professional electrician, but you're not a pro), or you'll have to call the power company to pull the meter and then re-install the meter.
TEMPORARY Service. Its fine. 100a less than 6 circuits does not require shut off. It’s all good. Also no plan to add any circuits 200a will be going to the shop
@@BusGreaseMonkey I understand it's not required. I'm just saying sometimes temporary lasts a lot longer than anyone expects - life intervenes and causes plans to change.
I purposely made it 100a so i wouldn’t be tempted to use it permanently :)
@@BusGreaseMonkey I was wondering about the need for a main breaker/disconnect as well. Not being a troll, I'm an electrician in Canada for 19 years. Of course codes and regulations vary by state/country. Your workmanship looks pretty good for a do-it-yourselfer. Congrats on passing your inspection.
Nahhh just cut the tab off and pull the meter do your thing and put it back in service at least here it's no problem unless when they do come to read they see something that's just out of the question the smart meters report back a service interruption and if the power company does send someone out it's days later and the electrician needed to do some work is good
Genuine question - as your solar rig is so good, and produces surplus power, why do you need grid electricity also? I guess running shop equipment down the line?
Visitors. Plus when the bus leaves still having power on the property
I am surprised they required GFCI for the RV plugs. Will the internet company connect you up with temporary power? My company wanted permanent power to the ONT box. It would be sweet to have internet with your temporary power. I hope you get lucky!
Pretty sure the NEC does NOT require the RV outlets, 50 amp or 30 amp, to be GFCI protected.
One more job ticked off the list.
✌ Peace guys.
The power was for Tyler but the internet.......THAT'S FOR DADY!!! ;)
NO MAIN BREAKER OR FUSSIBLE DISCONECT? In california its required . But codes are different across the u s, Even though we all use the n e c , the local utility and local building department also have there own requirements , so only a local would know whats required there . Good luck
Did they require two ground rods? I had to put in two in my NC property.
Just one. I did 1.5 thanks to a large rock
Did you bond them together? Just curious.
Two rods increases the risk of lightning damage. (Creates a loop).
Dimensions on the actual pole/poles. How wide and how tall?
is the JHA inspector allowing the exposed & above ground PVC because it temporary? or maybe your going to protect from physical and UV damage later? again, just curious!!!
The grey pipe in lieu of white PVC is uv protected and depending on where it's located if there's any way a vehicle could hit it parking lot etc it requires posts if it's not near any vehicle traffic it's not needed who's going to drive into it ??
I never understood why the height requirement is different than in RV parks where it is much lower.
They didn't ask for a copper water line ran there for the ground wire.
If install secondary cables, must be 18" below ground surface. and if install primary high voltage cable, it must be at least 36" below ground level.
Your Point??
@@BusGreaseMonkey MeTube self-righteousness, no doubt! 😆
A magnet on a string would retrieve that screw
Couldn’t see it. Out of line of sight. We tried a magnet and no luck. Then i tested the other screw and it was not magnetic
Most RV electrical systems will have enough leakage to trip a GFCI....
Don’t see an expansion coupling....
:18 it’s in the box in the background
Bus Grease Monkey , good man. 👍🏻
When the tresspassers come in while you are away they will have access to power!!
So our security cameras and motion security lights will have power
i make my own power (thanks not to god) solar and wind. no state interference. I hate em! :-)