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@Number27 out of interest when you booked this in with jaguar what did you request them to do in terms of an inspection? I want to do the same with my BMW E91 330d with a main dealer to get an idea of any potential work that the recommend having done
Those Jag prices are insane! Those headlights can be easily fixed with a headlight restore kit for under 50 pounds! Sounds like you've got yourself a nice Jag there Jack for the money!
Can't believe anybody paid fifty quid or someone else to polish headlamps... You can polish with T-Cut. The finishing may cost something anti UV coating. Great result with the Jag.
If they didn't spot the leak in the boot or talked about history codes for your ABS unit (most likely reason cruise control failed) I wouldn't be overly impressed by how good or bad they found the rest of the car. I would look into replacing the entertainment unit for something modern that is made to fit in your car and not bother too much with getting it fixed, unless you find a specialist that can do it on a budget.
The Japanese infotainment system screen also controls many other systems so you have to keep it. It's plug and play. Replace it with a more modern XF screen (cx part compatibility) from Latvia breakers. There are tubes on how to take it out the console. God I'm glad I don't have to deal with the UK insane MOT rip off!
Confidence in the dealer takes an early hit when they can't spell 'aerial'. The cruise issue is sometimes down to a fault in one or more of the wheel speed sensors; it can be just that they've got a bit cruddy but if there is a failure they aren't that pricey. A check of the fault codes would be useful. The central screen works just about all the secondary functionality in the car so of course you can't just put in a different head unit, but even from new Jaguars of this age had a bit of an issue with wiring connectors (I had an early XF) so it might be something as easy as just a disconnect and clean up the terminals. Fingers crossed!
I remember in Autocar feature an Alfa 164 was pitted against the XJ the jag had a sticking brake caliper that caused the same problem, a good few years ago now!
I spotted the aerial thing but, on balance, I'd rather have a competent but illiterate mechanic fix my car than an English professor who didn't know one end of a spanner from the other! 🙂
Absolutely correct! Poor spelling is a killer for me. If the mechanic doesn't care about his written presentation it speaks volumes. It points to him possibly being fairly illiterate which could mean that he doesn't read much which in turn means he hasn't studied much of the necessary technical information out there. Worse still it could be that he is perfectly capable of spelling correctly but can't be bothered to find out it and check. What else is he not bothered about doing correctly?
To be honest, most premium brand retailers are not used to having vehicles that old back in the workshop, unless they offer special rates for all vehicles. The policy dictated by the factory is replace rather than repair, however, if you use a good independent like Tom Lenthall then you can probably run one on a more reasonable budget. Clearly nobody is going to replace a front set of lights when you can simply polish them. Nevertheless, I think you’ve got yourself one hell of a car for the price that you paid!
@@flybobbie1449 of course, except that you'd think that obscure parts on the shelf would be sold at a more reasonable price rather than gathering dust.
Nope. I had the same Jaguar and the best independent Jaguar specialist was not as good as the Jaguar dealer. The specialist was not as thorough and actually charged more.
Agreed. I had a Porsche Cayman and the so called Porsche Specialists did all the tracking at great expense and then forgot to tighten the adjusters. @@bigmacdaddy1234
Buying these high performance vehicles is always a roll of the dice especially from private sellers and auctions,if you must buy one have it inspected by a professional prior to purchase,it no good buying it and then complaining afterwards,a main agent full service history is always an indication of how the vehicle has been looked after,people buy these vehicles not realising what their running and repair costs will be and it can be very expensive sometimes running into thousands for a badly neglected vehicle,an engine could cost £10,000-00 plus fitting plus VAT quite easily just by running out of water or oil,think very carefully before purchasing.
Also replace the boot surround rubber. I had a 2year old Mercedes that leaked like a sieve in the boot. After nearly going bonkers trying to find the cause the surround was replaced and thereafter the boot was bone dry.
Agreed, a good result. Can't blame Jaguar for doing what they are supposed to do, which is quote for replacing worn parts with new. Agree with your approach of a mix of DIY & don't bother. One thing I would disagree on is the wheels. I'd have a specialist sort them out as there is a risk of a blowout. How old is the battery? These cars are notorious for electrical issues if the battery isn't in top condition. Might fix your dash & cruise issues.
Wow! What a result. You must be well pleased. Fundamentally the car is sound. I’m pretty certain the German brands that many Brits seem so obsessed over would not have faired any better.
I'll bet that boot leak is the rear light seals, if the lights are at the end of the drain gulley or intrude into it I reckon that's your issue, get those buckles done quickly, I repair Alloy wheels amongst other things and another bang in that area will crack the rim, LOVE the XK's, the XKR being on my bucket list ❤ the hanging infotainment system will be a BCM issue, may need a re-flash, great video again Sir 👍
Great result Jack! Personally I would get the rims repaired (could be pothole damage) as a priority and just for peace of mind. Otherwise, a solid Jag.
I agree. - At least get them professionally checked by a wheel specialist. They can be cracked and still hold air. Hit another pothole and the wheel could let go catastrophically.
It would be interesting to see how much an independent Jaguar specialist would charge ,I know of one in Oxfordshire which is family run and very honest which is half the battle won .Good luck ,lovely car especially in black
Just half this bill. The main dealers aren't generally dishonest they simply have massively higher business overheads and those are passed on to customers.
@@ruk2023--One reason for massive overheads is that they have to deal with chancers who want a free quote for work they have no intention of having done...
Whilst those wheels don't vibrate or leak air I'd still be concerned about them, alloy wheels bend slightly then crack which is something you wouldn't want to happen at high speed, Id make that a higher priority than the the tie rod. Otherwise looks like you have a bargain.
Had a XK 2009 x60 anniversary model it was a gem such a beautiful beautiful thing ,had it for two years enjoyed every minute but always niggling was that big repair bill round the corner sold for £1000 more than I bought it which to me is a resultWorking away from home I just didn’t drive another
I'd be slightly wary of any dealership that can't spell aerial correctly. This one seems like they're more into misspelt mythology than realistic pricing. If there's anyone who loathes main dealerships more than I do, let's just say I wouldn't like to meet them down a dark alley.
@Lookup2Wakeup For many, a car is the largest investment monetarily, second only to a house. I am calm, in spite of court action against a couple of parasites, but thanks for the quack psychoanalytical input.
@@erikschuddeboom3223 A supposed mechanical specialist franchised dealership overfilled my car's sump on two separate occasions, the first time blowing one crankshaft oil seal, the second time the other end, contaminating the timing belt, resulting in the need for gearbox removal and a new belt. I'm thankful for results, not sycophantic forelock tugging or daft observations from the likes of your fine self.
With regards to the water leak, do your best to dry out inside the boot and just cover everything in talcum powder. Hopefully you should see the water tracking down through the powder. the added bonus to this should make the boots smell very nice.
Check boot seal and rear lights for any issues.the electric glitches are typical Jaguar.there might be a software update for head unit but there known for being sluggish.the sub frame is surface rust,same on my Xf.poor treatment of metal when produced,cleans up 👍.
That leak along with the missing heat-shield makes me suspect that it's had a shunt in the rear! Also could possibly explain the corroded rear sub-frame & split tie-rod!
More than 4.000 quid for the headlights is 'cheeky', shall I say politely... Otherwise, I'm impressed too Jack how good your car's current condition actually is. Former owner(s) must have loved it!
What have we learned here: 1. You can buy a cheap older once expensive car IF you know what you are doing and MANAGE your expectations. 2. Jaguar have a done a great job in telling you what needs fixing and what doesn't. 3. Jaguar have a done a great job publicising why main dealers are a complete rip off. 4. Most of these jobs are not life or car threatening. Can be tackled by you and over time. Thanks Jaguar!
You're a smart guy Jack, I'm sure you knew this would be the case taking it to a main dealer. What did it cost for that report by the way? The way the dealers work now is that they quote maximum for everything and expect you to leave it rather than take it, because they don't really want the work. If you are mad enough to take it, kerching! Up until a few weeks ago, I worked part-time for Euro Car Parts, and I would regularly deliver aftermarket parts to local main dealerships, including, VW, Audi, Volvo, Skoda, Peugeot, Vauxhall, Mercedes, Suzuki, Honda, Ford, Toyota, Hyundai, Nissan and Jaguar/Land Rover. BMW rarely bought anything from us, but it makes you wonder whether the others charge the customer for genuine parts and fit aftermarket, which are a fraction of the price. Average customer would not know the difference.
@@wfifa199Personally, I have not had a vehicle repaired or serviced at a main dealers for over 20 years at least, so I don't know what goes on. Maybe they offer the customer a choice when it comes to the parts? The problem is, how would you know? Eg. if you buy a genuine BMW oil filter for, let's say an E46, and look at the numbers on it, they are exactly the same as a Mann filter, which from ECP is easy half the price, but it is obviously the exact same filter that is fitted by BMW. Who is going to remove their new oil filter and see if it has BMW stamped on it?
In my 2007 XKR Convertible (had it for 9 years) the entertainment unit freezing on the startup screen was an indication of a weak battery (these cars eat batteries, they usually lasti for only 3 years max). Swapping in a good new battery / keeping it on a top up charger if you don't drive it very regularly is a good move.
Just a thought......, the water leak Look to see if the drain hole in the petrol filler flap recess is not blocked. (Mine was and it backtracked rain into the boot)
main dealer master-tech here, let's rewrite that list --- red - 2 buckled wheels, all the rest - amber... yes, they are going to stick it up you, but at least get it in the right order... centrifugal force at high speed, along with a hot, pliable tyre has a good chance of air loss, which will cause further heat build-up + eventual failure, not ideal. look at 7:54, the rim is deformed by about 3mm away from where metal should be to hold the bead securely in place. it ain't coming off round the doors, but soon as there is 3 digits shown, tighten your seatbelt... cruise reqs no background faults visible, best guess, dodgy ABS signal keep it up young man, + fix your wheels PS, i would love to see their full internal refurb costs if it was one of their sales cars [£1500?]
Haha - i wouldn't place too much stock in what the main stealer comes up with. As regards the water ingress, try a smoke tablet - great for detecting all kinds of leaks.
@@richardconway6425 That's the general idea. I bought some to test my chimney when i opened my fireplace up and i used them for a few other leak tests over the years. Think maybe they called them smoke pellets, actually.
The last 2 cars I had that leaked in the boot were both caused by water tracking around the flange for the boot seal. Try removing the seal, cleaning the flange and then run a bead of sealant on the flange before refitting the seal
I have a leak in my boot also where water is pooling at the very bottom while the rest of the sides seem dry. It seems to have occurred since it’s re spray along with a few other annoying things. As for your sticking radio mast. Again I had similar issue whereby it wouldn’t rise all the way up and would not lower completely. My solution which bye the way worked and sees the mast rise and fall effortlessly now, is a can of WD40 with the red tube attached to minimise overspray and a kitchen towel or two. Step one: Turn ignition part way enough to get dash to light up. Turn on radio and quickly run round to the mast and firmly, evenly and gently pull/help the mast rise until all the way up taking care not to bend this way or that. Step two: Wipe mast clean from the bottom to the top )not the top to bottom as that may push any sludge or grit further into the next section of the mast) with kitchen towel. Step three: Lubricate each mast section using kitchen towel to guard overspray and wipe wd40 evenly from bottom to top allowing liberal spray of wd40 to trickle into each section top. And liberally wipe excess wd40 off again bottom to top. Then turn off radio and run round to the mast to gently help the mast lower in the event or as soon as it begins to struggle lowering. Step four: Repeat this process as many times as necessary (probably at least three or four times plus) as this will enable you to fully wipe off any escaping sludge or grit that will be dislodged from the mast section joints. By the end you should find your mast rising and lowering without issue. This is clearly a bit of general maintenance that will need to be done from time to time say once every six months to annually. NO NEED to go out buying a new unit unless completely broken. Hope this helps
WELL PLEASED for you Jack! that must have been a relief once you pulled the details out of the total price! Interesting to see what dealers prices are like of course (Yawm) they are more expensive than specialists but we all know what we know right! Clear example of some of the stupidity of prices, especially headlights - if you insured that car with my employer and love tapped another car, we'd total loss it just for x1 headlight and respraying the bumper - untter madness!
Water leaks are a real pain, and often take lots of detective work…good luck with that. As you have basically proven out in this video, if you are mechanically inclined, you can own and drive some nice cars if you are willing to do some work. I own two Jags, an XJ 8 and F-type, as well as a Porsche 944, and wrench on all of them. Glad to see you starting on the Pantera project, that’s content I enjoy. All the best.
You should unplug the connectors for the electronics that aren't working and spray the connectors down with deoxit, reseal the edges of the plug with dielectric grease. Sometimes slight decay in the connection forms over time, the low voltage can't overcome the resistance.
Not sure about this model specifically, but I know to do anything with an XF headlight, you need to remove the bumper to get access. Not sure if those prices include labour though?
Lights are always a ripoff. The manufacturer knows that they'll get broken and it's easy money for them. I've seen really basic rear lights for common cars selling for crazy prices. You look at it and see that it's two or three simple pieces of plastic made in China. The manufacturer likely buys them at $10 each.
@@stevemawer848 A bunch of LEDs in front of a reflector is actually not much more complex. All the injection molded plastic crap is basically the same.
Congrats for that purchase. 3 years ago, we bought from a Jaguar dealer, an XKR convertible (416 Hp) from the same year as yours, with 109.000km (66.000miles). After that my BMW M3 convertible and my Audi S8 are always parked at home. Such an amazing joy of a car. Fast, Stylish, comfy and fun to travel on it. It’s an outstanding package. The problem is going to be to find a replacement for such a plush and fun thing.
Great video 👍 I would really un-dent the wheel rims though. Wheels are maybe the most critical items on a car. With all dynamic forces put on them, especially at this sports car, I wouldn't dare taking the risk.
Very interesting - I was looking at an XK8 here in New Zealand on Sunday offered for about the same price you paid and wondered how much pain there might be! Tempting once you got past the Jaguar dealership quote and talked sensibly about it - thanks for the report 👍
Water leak. I noticed when you lifted the tail gate that water came out, that combined with the condensation in the number plate light leads me to think the water could be getting into the tail gate and then into the boot. It could get in via the hinges, cable gators, number plate light cover or possibly the spoiler. Worth a look.
Problem with main dealers is they charge high labour rates per hour, and also are barred from using good quality used parts where these can be used without affecting safety. They also must use Jaguar-supplied consumables like discs and brake pads. Best to find a good Jaguar specialist, but depending on where you live, this may mean going quite some distance to get work done.
I don't know why the dealer is blamed so much in the comments. He asked what they think needs doing and that's what they gave him. Noone is holding him at gunpoint forcing him to give them the ten thousand pound to do the work. The things they deem necessary are 500 pounds, which seems reasonable.
Hello Again, it looks as if you have a really good car, most post 2000 Jaguars are, well done. Regarding the boot water leak, do what you can if no success then taking care 'drill' a couple of holes in the boot floor, otherwise you will be looking for water forever !!!! Regards, RichardA. (a Jaguar Owner)
I’m not a Jag fan as I’ve owned one. I’m the guy that usually slags JLR off. However this was a great video of a lovely car. And so encouraging to see how good it actually is. Most people could tackle much of this or find a cheaper fix as you point out. The car looks great and I hope you show us when it’s all green. Did I miss how much the inspection cost? I’m guessing about £400? One last thing,,, on a trip to Stratstone Jaguar Cardiff many years ago the manager came outside while I was waiting for yet another expensive repair. He said “back again..”. Then his bombshell,,,,”you know why it breaks down? ,,,, because it’s a car…” no joke. He honestly seemed to believe that cars get a lot of faults. He was so indoctrinated with the JLR mindset. Unbelievable.
Good to hear that the Jag is essentially in good order and a great buy. No great surprise that a Jaguar main dealer overcharges for maintenance and repair, but the sums involved were truly eye-watering.
Great video, shocking prices, but not entirely surprised. I've got an x100 XKR and I've recently had it fully resprayed, and whilst I was at it, I did an overhaul of the underside, powdercoating everything and changing bushes/shocks, full brake caliper overhaul/re-painted etc, the lot. Anyway, the point I'm getting at is, whilst it was in for repairs, I decided to replace the lights as they looked a bit tired. So new rear lights and new front headlight lenses, genuine might I add, from a reputable genuine parts dealer online (not JLR, the other one). Anyway, fast forward a year, and both genuine lenses are leaking, they weren't cheap, and Jaguar don't want to know. So if you're silly enough to go through dealers, (I know you're not) it would be daylight robbery, but if you go down the genuine parts route (thinking you're fixing things to the best of your abilities), turns out the parts are still problematic, massively disappointing.
Why are you so surprised - you took it to a Franchised Dealer, their overheads are huge and they have to make the money back and the mark up on parts is through the roof!!.
This summer I went Jaguar hunting and bought a 2002 XK8 for $8k. It had 98k mileage and had 13 years earlier been declared a total loss due to a flood. It looked perfect, drove great and every item worked on it. Similar Jaguars with half the mileage and double the price either didn’t drive well or had things that didn’t work well or some blemish to the body. I bought mine with the thought that it may cost me the purchase price again ($8k) to fix all that was wrong with it. So far, I have paid about $5k on various repairs. Meanwhile, I get the pleasure of driving a beautiful car that cost upwards of $60k when new. I figure I will in the end be ahead of the game if I need to put more money into it. There are few cars on the street new within the price range of $60k that I would prefer to own and I could easily afford to buy them if they existed.
Some relatively recent and very recent experiences of mine with my Mercedes 6.3. I paid for a comprehensive assessment of the Mercedes for recommissioning The transmission was flaring slightly. Their conclusion was a complete rebuild needed. In fact it was simply low and you needed to run the engine and test it running to get correct levels! The transmission was never rebuilt but allot of other work was completed by another business who did a great job. The other business didnt have shiny women on the front desk or knowledgeable german head mechanic. They just had a real enthusiast and lots of old cars. Be careful is all I can say.
That leak along with the missing heat-shield makes me suspect that it's had a shunt in the rear! Also could possibly explain the corroded rear sub-frame, as it may have been sourced from a wrecking-yard!
Great video, I bought an XJ and found an independent garage and entrusted any work to him. So far, after 6 years of ownership, very happy with all of his work and pricing. In the first year of ownership it failed its MOT on split gaiters, the Jaguar garage quoted £1064 plus vat..... He did it for £120!!!!!!!!
In the past I used to do a lot of leak work as I worked for a British Leyland Dealer. It is surprising that the water ingress does not actually come from where the water is. An Allegro for example the water collected in the boot but was coming in the Front screen. The best way is to get a person to lay where the water collects and using a pressure washer spray a section of the car at a time, rear lights, boot, then work outwards,. Eventually you will find where the water tracks and by process of elimination you will get it. I am assuming that is when parked but if when driving then under wheel arches etc. Also check that it does not happen when you use the washer motor, often it is a single pump which does both ends and you use the fronts and it leaks at the back. For me this is the most time consuming thing to find for a dealer as it eats time of two people.
Ask any dealer and they dont make money on the cars hence servicing, upgrades and replacements. I was quoted $850aud plus labour for a new replacement rear windscreen washer motor on a Nissan Pulsar 2013. I got one from a breakers for $100. Dealers survive on company car, or finance owned cars when its contracted to service, or for warranty residual value... Good luck with the new motor...
Another good video Jack but it does beg the question do main dealers actually want to work on cars older than 5 or 6 years old or are they just pricing themselves out of the work😮
Hi there ! You can use developer spray to find the water leak in the Boot. It will spray White particles wich then get dry and let you trace the leak Path. It sticks on once it has been sprayed, so its less mess then talkum powder. You can wipe it away later. Those spray are used in Fluid penentration Tests for Cracks. I work in Aviation Maintenance and we use this stuff to find fuel leaks.
I bought my 08 XKR Convertible early May. It was advertised at £12k with 87kmiles FSH. I ended up paying £10k for it. It need pads, discs, water pump, supercharger water pump, pulleys, service, tyres, and the wheels renovating. The car had an outdoor cover on the previous winter and it had scuffed all the drivers side paints work. I managed to polish it all out and get rid of the scuffs. I’ve spent about £4,500 and the car now is awesome. I had a hand built exhaust made for £500 and it sounds incredible on power now. Superb car. I’ve had 2 XK60 anniversary editions which is the best looking XK imo. My next job is alloy wheel refurb. I restored the hood myself and it looks like new again. New boot badges and some trims painted just the front grills to do now. Love the XK. Such a great value car. Front control arms are soo important to tyre wear and the whole feel of the car well worth doing for a couple of hundred quid.
Good luck with it, I hope it goes well and will be keen to see the follow ups. I always lusted for an XJ 12, as a long legged Aussie tourer, but I reckon I would be happy as Larry in your beast, take care
I have worked a lot at these jags and this is not untypical of a dealer quote. One tip if the electrics are throwing up random intermittent faults is find and clean all the earth points as these, espescially in a car with a water leak furr up and add unwanted resistance to the circuit, modules then misread data etc and produce errors. One other thing, try to get the antenna up, gentle assistance by hand can help, use a spray lube and run it down, again with a little help, repeat and it will often free up and run normally again., you used to be able to buy just the telescopic bit (mast) which was easily fitted into the motor, havent doen one in a while so not sure about availability now.
Yes Jack....for now. I have identical issues with my 18 year old Lexus. Including: Rear subrame which I had blasted and sealed, also thr headlights were polished, but I have an annoying steering vibration, possibly due to a worn upper wishbone. I try and get various things done economically as they arise but am always slightly worried an expensive job is round the corner (particularly the folding hardtop) that I can't avoid! So far the car has been good (servicing aside), but it needs a rear exhaust section due to identical issues to your Jag and, unsurprisingly, no pattern parts exist. I'm afraid it's a case of fingers crossed 🤞 and keeping them crossed. But they're such lovely cars to drive. lol. I would however, with respect, advise a gentle transmission fluid change (not a flush) if it has not been done already. Good luck and keep up the good work. Merry Christmas all. 🎄
We have a Touareg. About 100 km from home, on the way back to the UK, just 10% of the journey done, on a motorway, cruise control in operation, suddenly, the cruise control dropped out and lots of warning lights, ABS, Traction Control etc came on along with other notifications. Quite scary at the time, but nothing dangerous. I continued to the UK and went to a garage that I knew. I couldn't take it into VW due to time constraints as we were flying out of the UK the following day. The chap put it on his computer and it threw up four A4 pages of faults! He told me not to worry as it was likely to be just a single item. An ABS sensor to the right o/s rear wheel. I ordered one from VW and collected it on our return. £104 for a small, mainly plastic sensor. Changed it and everything was back to normal. I think your cruise problem is something similar.
I suggest you climb into the boot with a torch and get someone else to work the hose. Main dealer prices have always been stupid and I guess you actually KNOW this! Seems like a sound enough car to me, I reckon you could easily replace the tie bar yourself too, come to that.
Great vid. I'm sure some of those jobs you can do. And the rest done at a garage for a reasonable price. As you said Headlights, grab a polishing kit. Screenwash, drain it, flush it. Clean the filter. Have the exhaust tip that's loose welded.
Came across your video as I’m thinking of buying an XK or XKR and doing as much research as I can. Really interesting video which actually gives me more confidence in buying despite the ludicrous costs quoted by main dealer. Thanks again for your video.
We took our Jaguar X-Type to a Jaguar master technician for a fault diagnosis. New prop shaft he said. Got the prop shaft professionally sorted by a specialist and it made no difference to the fault we were experiencing which was a mild vibration when braking. As for main dealers there really are no proper mechanics anymore just replacement specialists. Years ago I got quoted £300 for a caliper replacement on my Audi 100. I rebuilt the caliper with new seals for £20. A mate got quoted £ss for front subframe replacement on the Volvo I sold him. £30 worth of welding sorted it. Main dealers generally don't fix stuff they just replace it. There are exceptions of course. Our local Nissan dealership quoted 45 minutes to replace the drivers side door lock (it couldn't be fixed) on our 18 year old X Trail. It took 3 hours to do it. They still only charged the original quoted price for a ball aching job.
Main dealers only understand finance - nothing else ! Specialists are always the best. They resolve problems rather than replace problems with expensive new parts.
I took my Jaguar XKR to Jaguar Lincoln who said it needed £2000 in repairs. I then took it to an independant Jaguar specialist who charged me an hours labour but could find no faults on what Jaguar Lincoln said I needed doing.
Bought an 07 Convertible XKR in the US East coast with 42k miles on it. Drove it for 7 months and all summer, it was fantastic. I put about 6k miles on it. I got a break on the price when I bought it because the control arm bushings all around the car were disintegrating. I knew that was going to be a big bill to get fixed. $1500 for Michelin tires, $1500 for rotors and pads and about $5k for many tie rods, many control arms. Worth it though, it's a fast and fun car and in the summer it is something else. Hoping the car will keep its value. Did have to fix the dang back window because the seal was bad. Did that myself, not a difficult job but just take your time (for those with a convertible).
I have owned twenty-one vehicles in my driving career. Everything from $500 twenty-five-year-old rusty Hyundais to new Mercedes Benz. The only time any of them have had water in the interior is when I left the windows down or sunroof open. On the ones equipped with cruise control or a power antenna or for that matter any power accessories, they lasted the life of the vehicle.
Having worked on the front desk of various franchises within the motor trade I know what a stressful job it is. The workshop loading has to be controlled for each day, each job has to be allocated to a technician with the correct skillset. The jobs have to be completed at the correct time throughout the day as agreed with the customer. Any additional work found needs to be costed and agreed. Each job will have a 'book time' that will need looking up against the cars chassis number, parts will need looking up for costing, consumables added if needed (antifreeze etc). At the same time phones will need to be answered, customers who walk in will need speaking to in person. Fleet systems will need to have jobs loaded onto (1link etc) for authority. Motability cars will need inspections and photos taken. Recalls will need checking, TSB carried out, fire reports to the brand, quality reports to the brand, liaise with Technical, reschedule jobs when parts are on back order ......etc etc. My point being that (perhaps not in this case) service advisors are far too busy to cost additional work just for you tubers content. Take just about any old expensive car into a dealership and you will be guaranteed to get an expensive repair bill. Expensive in=expensive out.
I remember the XJ's I had in the past, (70-80's) all had that problem with the aerial they all stuck at some point, you would have thought they would have come up with a better idea by now, main agent always rip people off, they like to deal with the banks etc who have no idea of value of money, great vlog.
For the screenwash, make up a bleach solution and flush out the system using that. Might be old screen wash that has turned to gel. Heat shield will have been removed to pass an MOT. They're not mediatory but since they corrode and become loose they get removed so that you can pass the test. Buckled wheels are sadly because of the state of the roads; pothole damage.
Found the boot leak came from perished window trim in mine. My choice was to either replace rear window or I bought a small tube of clear window glue that I ran down the window trims. Works in wet. Eventually I replaced window but this was the cheap way of finding if it was the problem. Worth a shot
This reminds me of the time I took my 2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 to the dealer for an inspection. I had a similar laundry list. I only got them to replace the rear subframe as this was covered by the warranty and was the reason it went to the dealer in the first place. I also agreed to have an exhaust clamp and the flexdisc that goes between the propshaft and differential flange replaced because there was no extra labour involved to replace those parts and it was clear in their inspection video that they needed to be replaced. I fixed the other problems myself and come MoT time, the car passed with only 3 advisories.
Obviously for guarantee reasons I have to use a main dealer for my new SVR, and I have to say they’ve been absolutely brilliant (Barrett’s of Ashford). Therefore most things are free. But at £180 per hour labour rates you’d be nuts to take an older car to them. The XK is easy to work on so clearly you could do most of those jobs yourself or take it to one of the many independent Jag specialists that are way cheaper. Get going with the wire brush and headlight polish kit and enjoy a truly beautiful car. Oh yes, I’d ignore those intermittent faults - I call them Jaguarisms. But you could swap the infotainment system for another used one or (if you have one locally) get a specialist out to upgrade it. I have an excellent guy who has just upgraded my wife’s Volvo to Apple Car Play for less than £500.
Interesting exercise with the JLR dealership and no surprise when you when you look how much overhead recovery they have to achieve with the ridiculously oppulent premises; it makes me cringe every time I visit but they have been very clever to intimidate me into thinking anything other than a genuine Range Rover service history will kill it's resale value. It will be interesting to hear how much you actually spend getting the vehicle up to scratch with a combination of DIY and thriftiness. Good luck with the water leak but based on the amount of owners with the same problem there will no doubt be a solution found soon.
Got yourself a bargain there. Main dealers wont repair anything they only change for new parts. The headlights is an easy fix with wet and dry and T cut. The sub frame is just surface rust and all that is required is a wire brush and Waxoil. As you say, the tie rod arm is a cheap item and easy to change. What mileage is the car ?
I had an old cheap Jag....it was a never-ending money pit. They aren't designed to last much beyond the 10 year mark unless you are prepared to spend a fortune. I will be interested to see how you get on long term. Good luck.
Your cruise control issue can be caused by a dodgy rear wheel speed sensor or even a soft tyre. They're not expensive to replace and an half decent OBD scanner would pick up speed discrepancies. If is gets worse, it might also flag up gearbox issues reported in whatever gear you're in at the time.
its ran also on the rolling circumference of the wheel, so if there was a discrepancy in the value it was getting vs what is should have then that would also cause the issue, like the buckled wheels
Back to my premise. If you can do some or all the jobs yourself the car is a very good buy. Folks have just lost those practical skills and then you're scuppered and at the mercy of rip off car dealers. Look forward immensley to the story. I had an X100 Type XKR softop and as you, I really look after my cars and it was superb. I bought it a new battery and that sorted all the gremlins out and just keep it on a battery conditioner when parked up overnight. No worries. I had no water leaks either. 😂 Good luck. That's one hell of a car for £6,500. Bet there's a good supply of second hand parts too.
A good fun exercise but take it to a proper independent specialist and have them check it over as they will know what to look for - main dealers have no idea about cars of that age and as you note, only use a parts replace model. Also, spray / brush the whole underside with Lanoguard - about £120 for your car - it stop any further corrosion and also, importantly, protect the suspension rubbers / bushes from further decay. Well worth a half days effort and Lanoguard is the best protectant around in my view having tried most things over the years. When doing the headlamp polish make sure you get a kit with a good UV sealant so it doesn't fade. Enjoy the jag.
I had an Stype Jag 15 years ago. During a main dealer service I mentioned the drivers side mirror wasn’t folding properly. Their answer was to quote me £800 for a new replacement. I took the car home and I fixed the problem with a quick squirt of WD40 - for less than a penny. I then looked at the job spec for a JLR service manager. It was all about upselling services and maximising revenue and margin, nothing about the interests of the customer. I never went back to a JLR main dealer again.
You can probably get the aerial to work by dripping penetrating oil or WD40 down it and working it by hand (you may need a helper to turn the radio on and off!). I did this on my 2001 XK8 and 2004 XKR with complete success. Or don't use the radio - the 4 "speakers" at the back should be plenty entertaining! 🙂
If you can't polish out the headlights you might be able to buy just the glass and swap the internals over - that's what my independent did for me when I got a cracked glass in my 2004 XKR. £200 plus a bit of labour against £2000 was rather a saving! Hope you can get to the bottom of that boot leak - none of the Jags I've had (2001 XK8, 2004 XKR, 2010 XKR and current 2018 F-Type) have had such misfortune. Mind you, I paid rather more than £6k for them!
At the end of the video we saw you climb into the trunk and a second gentleman started hosing down the rear hatch from its highest point. You probably know to start low and slow (is that true in most of life?). He needs to know as well. Thanks for the ever entertaining content! Brian
I had a BMW 528 Touring that ran the offside rear tyre flat on a dirt road and buckled the rim. Found a fellow that straightened wheel rims using a spinning lathe (Sydney, Australia) and he rolled the buckle out so well that when the new tyre was fitted it needed minimal balance weights to balance it. The 528 suffered from failure to enable the cruise control command but that was due to an electrical fault in the ignition switch. Failed twice for the same reason in the 15 years that I owned the car. Water leaks ha!. A long time ago one of my Engineers discovered an automotive device comprised of two parts. One was an untrasonic sound generator that you turned on and sat inside the car. The other bit was a receiver that you went around edges of windscreens, panel seams etc. looking for escaping sound. In those days output was three LEDs, green OK, yellow slight leak, red bad leak. Test had to be done when the car dried out as water in the leak path would block the sound otherwise it was a very useful device. Probably a modern version is still available.
Heat shield rusts around the bolts and falls on the exhaust. Previous owner probably ripped it out. Most put washers on the bolts to hold it up. Leak usually comes from left hand side vent by rear light.
I've had many prestige cars over the years and could only afford them as done virtually all work needed and servicing myself . Main dealers { stealers} factor in flashy showrooms so called free coffee/ drinks etc etc while your waiting . Ive really only ever visited them for e-calls and when I could only get apart from them. The headlamps is only a temporary cure . You really need to rub them down and re-coat spray with a good quality 2K clear lacquer with UV protection for a lasting result . Well done nice car .
I remember having a bad water leak in the boot of a Rover Fastback 820 back in the mid 90's - I could not trace where it was coming from so ended up drilling two holes in the floor preventing it from gathering. When i sold the car I plugged both of them up with rubber grommets.
3M headlight renovation kit, Amazon for £15.00 ish. Works fantastically! Like new once done. Highly recommend especially over £4plus grand for new light units!!
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I’d look at the rear quarter widow seals for that leak
@Number27 out of interest when you booked this in with jaguar what did you request them to do in terms of an inspection? I want to do the same with my BMW E91 330d with a main dealer to get an idea of any potential work that the recommend having done
th-cam.com/video/8lnj0Vsu6E8/w-d-xo.htmlsi=XFXU90UsPtkFCA8_
A sad story really. Main dealers don’t want to repair anything, all they want to do is replace with new, at your expense.
The car is treated as a new, 60-70k vehicle. That is how things work.
As Scotty Kilmer says, they have huge overheads.
@@resnonverba137Things can be fixed. Not everything needs to be replaced with a brand new part. That is how things work in my world.
They don't know how to. Just monkeys with written procedures. Monkey see, monkey do.
They have to do for warranty reasons!
On the other hand labour costs often more than replacing the part.
Those Jag prices are insane! Those headlights can be easily fixed with a headlight restore kit for under 50 pounds!
Sounds like you've got yourself a nice Jag there Jack for the money!
Recently did this and used a power drill as a buffer , epic result 👍
I paid someone to do my headlamps and that wa only £33 per lamp.
Can't believe anybody paid fifty quid or someone else to polish headlamps... You can polish with T-Cut. The finishing may cost something anti UV coating. Great result with the Jag.
@@martinda7446
"Can't believe anybody paid fifty quid or someone else to polish headlamps."
- I earnt more at work than doing it myself.
Dealerships don't polish or fix. They replace with new parts period.
If they didn't spot the leak in the boot or talked about history codes for your ABS unit (most likely reason cruise control failed) I wouldn't be overly impressed by how good or bad they found the rest of the car. I would look into replacing the entertainment unit for something modern that is made to fit in your car and not bother too much with getting it fixed, unless you find a specialist that can do it on a budget.
The Japanese infotainment system screen also controls many other systems so you have to keep it. It's plug and play. Replace it with a more modern XF screen (cx part compatibility) from Latvia breakers. There are tubes on how to take it out the console. God I'm glad I don't have to deal with the UK insane MOT rip off!
Confidence in the dealer takes an early hit when they can't spell 'aerial'. The cruise issue is sometimes down to a fault in one or more of the wheel speed sensors; it can be just that they've got a bit cruddy but if there is a failure they aren't that pricey. A check of the fault codes would be useful. The central screen works just about all the secondary functionality in the car so of course you can't just put in a different head unit, but even from new Jaguars of this age had a bit of an issue with wiring connectors (I had an early XF) so it might be something as easy as just a disconnect and clean up the terminals. Fingers crossed!
I remember in Autocar feature an Alfa 164 was pitted against the XJ the jag had a sticking brake caliper that caused the same problem, a good few years ago now!
I spotted the aerial thing but, on balance, I'd rather have a competent but illiterate mechanic fix my car than an English professor who didn't know one end of a spanner from the other! 🙂
Absolutely correct! Poor spelling is a killer for me. If the mechanic doesn't care about his written presentation it speaks volumes. It points to him possibly being fairly illiterate which could mean that he doesn't read much which in turn means he hasn't studied much of the necessary technical information out there. Worse still it could be that he is perfectly capable of spelling correctly but can't be bothered to find out it and check. What else is he not bothered about doing correctly?
I had the same reaction when I came across a truck mechanic who misspelled 'diesel'.
I saw that too Lool
To be honest, most premium brand retailers are not used to having vehicles that old back in the workshop, unless they offer special rates for all vehicles. The policy dictated by the factory is replace rather than repair, however, if you use a good independent like Tom Lenthall then you can probably run one on a more reasonable budget. Clearly nobody is going to replace a front set of lights when you can simply polish them. Nevertheless, I think you’ve got yourself one hell of a car for the price that you paid!
I agree, they're cars aimed at those who buy/lease new and either aren't bothered by the bills or sell them at three years old.
Most of the cost will be their eye-watering labour rates!
They never repair, just replace, liability issues and new parts come with warranty.
@@flybobbie1449 of course, except that you'd think that obscure parts on the shelf would be sold at a more reasonable price rather than gathering dust.
First mistake - going to a main dealer.
Go to an Independent Specialist/Dealer!
Nope. I had the same Jaguar and the best independent Jaguar specialist was not as good as the Jaguar dealer. The specialist was not as thorough and actually charged more.
Agreed. I had a Porsche Cayman and the so called Porsche Specialists did all the tracking at great expense and then forgot to tighten the adjusters. @@bigmacdaddy1234
There's plenty so-called specialists who are nothing of the sort, they just like the brand (or like the money they can make from the owners)
Buying these high performance vehicles is always a roll of the dice especially from private sellers and auctions,if you must buy one have it inspected by a professional prior to purchase,it no good buying it and then complaining afterwards,a main agent full service history is always an indication of how the vehicle has been looked after,people buy these vehicles not realising what their running and repair costs will be and it can be very expensive sometimes running into thousands for a badly neglected vehicle,an engine could cost £10,000-00 plus fitting plus VAT quite easily just by running out of water or oil,think very carefully before purchasing.
its just for the video
Surprised there was NO bushing issues, well done, polish the headlights seal the leak, replace the wheel strut and drive it! Cheers!
Check the seals on the rear light clusters,there renoun for letting water in.👍
They're renowned... FFS!
Also replace the boot surround rubber. I had a 2year old Mercedes that leaked like a sieve in the boot. After nearly going bonkers trying to find the cause the surround was replaced and thereafter the boot was bone dry.
Agreed, a good result.
Can't blame Jaguar for doing what they are supposed to do, which is quote for replacing worn parts with new. Agree with your approach of a mix of DIY & don't bother. One thing I would disagree on is the wheels. I'd have a specialist sort them out as there is a risk of a blowout.
How old is the battery? These cars are notorious for electrical issues if the battery isn't in top condition. Might fix your dash & cruise issues.
Just Tyres have an excellent wheel straightening service quite cheap too.
Agree,Battery needs to be spot on ,and a reset may help
Wow! What a result. You must be well pleased. Fundamentally the car is sound. I’m pretty certain the German brands that many Brits seem so obsessed over would not have faired any better.
Absolutely
Nor would the parts be cheaper...
If you'd used painters tape on either side of the panel seam, the black RTV would look "factory" when the tape is lifted. Smudging it on looks crunk.
I'll bet that boot leak is the rear light seals, if the lights are at the end of the drain gulley or intrude into it I reckon that's your issue, get those buckles done quickly, I repair Alloy wheels amongst other things and another bang in that area will crack the rim, LOVE the XK's, the XKR being on my bucket list ❤ the hanging infotainment system will be a BCM issue, may need a re-flash, great video again Sir 👍
Great result Jack! Personally I would get the rims repaired (could be pothole damage) as a priority and just for peace of mind. Otherwise, a solid Jag.
I agree. - At least get them professionally checked by a wheel specialist. They can be cracked and still hold air. Hit another pothole and the wheel could let go catastrophically.
It would be interesting to see how much an independent Jaguar specialist would charge ,I know of one in Oxfordshire which is family run and very honest which is half the battle won .Good luck ,lovely car especially in black
Just half this bill. The main dealers aren't generally dishonest they simply have massively higher business overheads and those are passed on to customers.
@@ruk2023--One reason for massive overheads is that they have to deal with chancers who want a free quote for work they have no intention of having done...
Whilst those wheels don't vibrate or leak air I'd still be concerned about them, alloy wheels bend slightly then crack which is something you wouldn't want to happen at high speed, Id make that a higher priority than the the tie rod. Otherwise looks like you have a bargain.
Had a XK 2009 x60 anniversary model it was a gem such a beautiful beautiful thing ,had it for two years enjoyed every minute but always niggling was that big repair bill round the corner sold for £1000 more than I bought it which to me is a resultWorking away from home I just didn’t drive another
I'd be slightly wary of any dealership that can't spell aerial correctly. This one seems like they're more into misspelt mythology than realistic pricing. If there's anyone who loathes main dealerships more than I do, let's just say I wouldn't like to meet them down a dark alley.
I noticed that spelling right away, but I wondered if it was a British thing, like “tyre” vs. “tire”.😊
@Lookup2Wakeup For many, a car is the largest investment monetarily, second only to a house. I am calm, in spite of court action against a couple of parasites, but thanks for the quack psychoanalytical input.
It seems both are used
Technicians are rarely English language specialists. As long as they can repair the car, be thankful.
@@erikschuddeboom3223 A supposed mechanical specialist franchised dealership overfilled my car's sump on two separate occasions, the first time blowing one crankshaft oil seal, the second time the other end, contaminating the timing belt, resulting in the need for gearbox removal and a new belt. I'm thankful for results, not sycophantic forelock tugging or daft observations from the likes of your fine self.
With regards to the water leak, do your best to dry out inside the boot and just cover everything in talcum powder. Hopefully you should see the water tracking down through the powder. the added bonus to this should make the boots smell very nice.
Oh my! Then all the boot is dirty with powder everywhere. But I guess it can work.
Check boot seal and rear lights for any issues.the electric glitches are typical Jaguar.there might be a software update for head unit but there known for being sluggish.the sub frame is surface rust,same on my Xf.poor treatment of metal when produced,cleans up 👍.
Never use powder, i had need to use powder fire extinguisher. Still falling out of nooks 4 years later.
Just use tissue, loo or kitchen.
That leak along with the missing heat-shield makes me suspect that it's had a shunt in the rear! Also could possibly explain the corroded rear sub-frame & split tie-rod!
More than 4.000 quid for the headlights is 'cheeky', shall I say politely...
Otherwise, I'm impressed too Jack how good your car's current condition actually is. Former owner(s) must have loved it!
What have we learned here:
1. You can buy a cheap older once expensive car IF you know what you are doing and MANAGE your expectations.
2. Jaguar have a done a great job in telling you what needs fixing and what doesn't.
3. Jaguar have a done a great job publicising why main dealers are a complete rip off.
4. Most of these jobs are not life or car threatening. Can be tackled by you and over time.
Thanks Jaguar!
You're a smart guy Jack, I'm sure you knew this would be the case taking it to a main dealer. What did it cost for that report by the way? The way the dealers work now is that they quote maximum for everything and expect you to leave it rather than take it, because they don't really want the work. If you are mad enough to take it, kerching! Up until a few weeks ago, I worked part-time for Euro Car Parts, and I would regularly deliver aftermarket parts to local main dealerships, including, VW, Audi, Volvo, Skoda, Peugeot, Vauxhall, Mercedes, Suzuki, Honda, Ford, Toyota, Hyundai, Nissan and Jaguar/Land Rover. BMW rarely bought anything from us, but it makes you wonder whether the others charge the customer for genuine parts and fit aftermarket, which are a fraction of the price. Average customer would not know the difference.
That's interesting to know. It's not exactly treating their customers fairly!
I wonder if there are any consumer laws being broken by them doing that?
Oh yes, unless specifically agreed in advance.
@@wfifa199Personally, I have not had a vehicle repaired or serviced at a main dealers for over 20 years at least, so I don't know what goes on. Maybe they offer the customer a choice when it comes to the parts? The problem is, how would you know? Eg. if you buy a genuine BMW oil filter for, let's say an E46, and look at the numbers on it, they are exactly the same as a Mann filter, which from ECP is easy half the price, but it is obviously the exact same filter that is fitted by BMW. Who is going to remove their new oil filter and see if it has BMW stamped on it?
In my 2007 XKR Convertible (had it for 9 years) the entertainment unit freezing on the startup screen was an indication of a weak battery (these cars eat batteries, they usually lasti for only 3 years max). Swapping in a good new battery / keeping it on a top up charger if you don't drive it very regularly is a good move.
10k is like your average monthly grocery bill these days, excluding liquor.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Main dealers almost always rip you off.
Just a thought......, the water leak
Look to see if the drain hole in the petrol filler flap recess is not blocked. (Mine was and it backtracked rain into the boot)
There are also vents in the boot on each rear wing which have foam rubber seals. These perish and let in water.
main dealer master-tech here, let's rewrite that list --- red - 2 buckled wheels, all the rest - amber... yes, they are going to stick it up you, but at least get it in the right order...
centrifugal force at high speed, along with a hot, pliable tyre has a good chance of air loss, which will cause further heat build-up + eventual failure, not ideal. look at 7:54, the rim is deformed by about 3mm away from where metal should be to hold the bead securely in place. it ain't coming off round the doors, but soon as there is 3 digits shown, tighten your seatbelt...
cruise reqs no background faults visible, best guess, dodgy ABS signal
keep it up young man, + fix your wheels
PS, i would love to see their full internal refurb costs if it was one of their sales cars [£1500?]
Haha - i wouldn't place too much stock in what the main stealer comes up with. As regards the water ingress, try a smoke tablet - great for detecting all kinds of leaks.
A smoke tablet? I've never heard of doing that before. Do you put that inside the boot, and then see where the smoke comes out?
@@richardconway6425 That's the general idea. I bought some to test my chimney when i opened my fireplace up and i used them for a few other leak tests over the years. Think maybe they called them smoke pellets, actually.
You can't beat dealer prices 😊...... fix nothing, just replace. Lovely car, well done. I'll enjoy following this
The last 2 cars I had that leaked in the boot were both caused by water tracking around the flange for the boot seal. Try removing the seal, cleaning the flange and then run a bead of sealant on the flange before refitting the seal
Had similar with a Subaru Impreza. I used compressed air to blast around the seal, cleaning out any dirt and then it sealed again.
I have a leak in my boot also where water is pooling at the very bottom while the rest of the sides seem dry. It seems to have occurred since it’s re spray along with a few other annoying things.
As for your sticking radio mast. Again I had similar issue whereby it wouldn’t rise all the way up and would not lower completely. My solution which bye the way worked and sees the mast rise and fall effortlessly now, is a can of WD40 with the red tube attached to minimise overspray and a kitchen towel or two.
Step one: Turn ignition part way enough to get dash to light up. Turn on radio and quickly run round to the mast and firmly, evenly and gently pull/help the mast rise until all the way up taking care not to bend this way or that.
Step two: Wipe mast clean from the bottom to the top )not the top to bottom as that may push any sludge or grit further into the next section of the mast) with kitchen towel.
Step three: Lubricate each mast section using kitchen towel to guard overspray and wipe wd40 evenly from bottom to top allowing liberal spray of wd40 to trickle into each section top. And liberally wipe excess wd40 off again bottom to top. Then turn off radio and run round to the mast to gently help the mast lower in the event or as soon as it begins to struggle lowering.
Step four: Repeat this process as many times as necessary (probably at least three or four times plus) as this will enable you to fully wipe off any escaping sludge or grit that will be dislodged from the mast section joints.
By the end you should find your mast rising and lowering without issue. This is clearly a bit of general maintenance that will need to be done from time to time say once every six months to annually. NO NEED to go out buying a new unit unless completely broken.
Hope this helps
WELL PLEASED for you Jack! that must have been a relief once you pulled the details out of the total price! Interesting to see what dealers prices are like of course (Yawm) they are more expensive than specialists but we all know what we know right! Clear example of some of the stupidity of prices, especially headlights - if you insured that car with my employer and love tapped another car, we'd total loss it just for x1 headlight and respraying the bumper - untter madness!
Water leaks are a real pain, and often take lots of detective work…good luck with that. As you have basically proven out in this video, if you are mechanically inclined, you can own and drive some nice cars if you are willing to do some work. I own two Jags, an XJ 8 and F-type, as well as a Porsche 944, and wrench on all of them. Glad to see you starting on the Pantera project, that’s content I enjoy. All the best.
They've invented a contraceptive flour, so now you can eat your cake and have it!
You should unplug the connectors for the electronics that aren't working and spray the connectors down with deoxit, reseal the edges of the plug with dielectric grease. Sometimes slight decay in the connection forms over time, the low voltage can't overcome the resistance.
The headlight cost is surely a typo,how can they keep a straight face when showing you that 😂
Not sure about this model specifically, but I know to do anything with an XF headlight, you need to remove the bumper to get access. Not sure if those prices include labour though?
Lights are always a ripoff. The manufacturer knows that they'll get broken and it's easy money for them. I've seen really basic rear lights for common cars selling for crazy prices. You look at it and see that it's two or three simple pieces of plastic made in China. The manufacturer likely buys them at $10 each.
Modern headlights are a bit more complicated than a bulb in front of a reflector.
@@stevemawer848 A bunch of LEDs in front of a reflector is actually not much more complex. All the injection molded plastic crap is basically the same.
Congrats for that purchase. 3 years ago, we bought from a Jaguar dealer, an XKR convertible (416 Hp) from the same year as yours, with 109.000km (66.000miles). After that my BMW M3 convertible and my Audi S8 are always parked at home. Such an amazing joy of a car. Fast, Stylish, comfy and fun to travel on it. It’s an outstanding package. The problem is going to be to find a replacement for such a plush and fun thing.
I love the way they came up with an 11 grand bill and didn't mention ANY of the things you found wrong before you got there LOLOLOLOL
I can't believe that price they quoted for the headlights. Insane
Great video 👍 I would really un-dent the wheel rims though. Wheels are maybe the most critical items on a car. With all dynamic forces put on them, especially at this sports car, I wouldn't dare taking the risk.
The main issue here is that you went to a main agent. They do a very poor job, charge the earth and tell you everything needs doing. Total rip off.
Very interesting - I was looking at an XK8 here in New Zealand on Sunday offered for about the same price you paid and wondered how much pain there might be! Tempting once you got past the Jaguar dealership quote and talked sensibly about it - thanks for the report 👍
Are you willing to disclose how much the dealer charged for this very comprehensive assessment and report?
Brilliant video, thanks!
To see where the water leak is from, perhaps use a fog/smoke machine inside the closed car. This maybe worth a go?
That's how an elusive leak was found in a 928 I had a few years ago
Water leak. I noticed when you lifted the tail gate that water came out, that combined with the condensation in the number plate light leads me to think the water could be getting into the tail gate and then into the boot. It could get in via the hinges, cable gators, number plate light cover or possibly the spoiler. Worth a look.
Who’d have thought a Jaguar main dealer would try to rip you off 🤣
Problem with main dealers is they charge high labour rates per hour, and also are barred from using good quality used parts where these can be used without affecting safety. They also must use Jaguar-supplied consumables like discs and brake pads. Best to find a good Jaguar specialist, but depending on where you live, this may mean going quite some distance to get work done.
I don't know why the dealer is blamed so much in the comments. He asked what they think needs doing and that's what they gave him. Noone is holding him at gunpoint forcing him to give them the ten thousand pound to do the work. The things they deem necessary are 500 pounds, which seems reasonable.
Hello Again, it looks as if you have a really good car, most post 2000 Jaguars are, well done. Regarding the boot water leak, do what you can if no success then taking care 'drill' a couple of holes in the boot floor, otherwise you will be looking for water forever !!!!
Regards, RichardA. (a Jaguar Owner)
I’m not a Jag fan as I’ve owned one. I’m the guy that usually slags JLR off. However this was a great video of a lovely car. And so encouraging to see how good it actually is. Most people could tackle much of this or find a cheaper fix as you point out. The car looks great and I hope you show us when it’s all green. Did I miss how much the inspection cost? I’m guessing about £400?
One last thing,,, on a trip to Stratstone Jaguar Cardiff many years ago the manager came outside while I was waiting for yet another expensive repair. He said “back again..”. Then his bombshell,,,,”you know why it breaks down? ,,,, because it’s a car…” no joke. He honestly seemed to believe that cars get a lot of faults. He was so indoctrinated with the JLR mindset. Unbelievable.
Good to hear that the Jag is essentially in good order and a great buy. No great surprise that a Jaguar main dealer overcharges for maintenance and repair, but the sums involved were truly eye-watering.
Great video, shocking prices, but not entirely surprised. I've got an x100 XKR and I've recently had it fully resprayed, and whilst I was at it, I did an overhaul of the underside, powdercoating everything and changing bushes/shocks, full brake caliper overhaul/re-painted etc, the lot. Anyway, the point I'm getting at is, whilst it was in for repairs, I decided to replace the lights as they looked a bit tired. So new rear lights and new front headlight lenses, genuine might I add, from a reputable genuine parts dealer online (not JLR, the other one). Anyway, fast forward a year, and both genuine lenses are leaking, they weren't cheap, and Jaguar don't want to know. So if you're silly enough to go through dealers, (I know you're not) it would be daylight robbery, but if you go down the genuine parts route (thinking you're fixing things to the best of your abilities), turns out the parts are still problematic, massively disappointing.
Why are you so surprised - you took it to a Franchised Dealer, their overheads are huge and they have to make the money back and the mark up on parts is through the roof!!.
This summer I went Jaguar hunting and bought a 2002 XK8 for $8k. It had 98k mileage and had 13 years earlier been declared a total loss due to a flood. It looked perfect, drove great and every item worked on it. Similar Jaguars with half the mileage and double the price either didn’t drive well or had things that didn’t work well or some blemish to the body. I bought mine with the thought that it may cost me the purchase price again ($8k) to fix all that was wrong with it. So far, I have paid about $5k on various repairs. Meanwhile, I get the pleasure of driving a beautiful car that cost upwards of $60k when new. I figure I will in the end be ahead of the game if I need to put more money into it. There are few cars on the street new within the price range of $60k that I would prefer to own and I could easily afford to buy them if they existed.
Some relatively recent and very recent experiences of mine with my Mercedes 6.3. I paid for a comprehensive assessment of the Mercedes for recommissioning The transmission was flaring slightly. Their conclusion was a complete rebuild needed. In fact it was simply low and you needed to run the engine and test it running to get correct levels! The transmission was never rebuilt but allot of other work was completed by another business who did a great job. The other business didnt have shiny women on the front desk or knowledgeable german head mechanic. They just had a real enthusiast and lots of old cars.
Be careful is all I can say.
That leak along with the missing heat-shield makes me suspect that it's had a shunt in the rear! Also could possibly explain the corroded rear sub-frame, as it may have been sourced from a wrecking-yard!
Great video, I bought an XJ and found an independent garage and entrusted any work to him. So far, after 6 years of ownership, very happy with all of his work and pricing. In the first year of ownership it failed its MOT on split gaiters, the Jaguar garage quoted £1064 plus vat..... He did it for £120!!!!!!!!
In the past I used to do a lot of leak work as I worked for a British Leyland Dealer. It is surprising that the water ingress does not actually come from where the water is. An Allegro for example the water collected in the boot but was coming in the Front screen.
The best way is to get a person to lay where the water collects and using a pressure washer spray a section of the car at a time, rear lights, boot, then work outwards,. Eventually you will find where the water tracks and by process of elimination you will get it.
I am assuming that is when parked but if when driving then under wheel arches etc. Also check that it does not happen when you use the washer motor, often it is a single pump which does both ends and you use the fronts and it leaks at the back.
For me this is the most time consuming thing to find for a dealer as it eats time of two people.
Ask any dealer and they dont make money on the cars hence servicing, upgrades and replacements.
I was quoted $850aud plus labour for a new replacement rear windscreen washer motor on a Nissan Pulsar 2013. I got one from a breakers for $100.
Dealers survive on company car, or finance owned cars when its contracted to service, or for warranty residual value...
Good luck with the new motor...
Another good video Jack but it does beg the question do main dealers actually want to work on cars older than 5 or 6 years old or are they just pricing themselves out of the work😮
It's their labour rates that make it uneconomic to use them. Those fancy showrooms and "free" coffee have to be paid for somehow ....
Hi there ! You can use developer spray to find the water leak in the Boot. It will spray White particles wich then get dry and let you trace the leak Path. It sticks on once it has been sprayed, so its less mess then talkum powder. You can wipe it away later. Those spray are used in Fluid penentration Tests for Cracks. I work in Aviation Maintenance and we use this stuff to find fuel leaks.
I bought my 08 XKR Convertible early May. It was advertised at £12k with 87kmiles FSH. I ended up paying £10k for it. It need pads, discs, water pump, supercharger water pump, pulleys, service, tyres, and the wheels renovating. The car had an outdoor cover on the previous winter and it had scuffed all the drivers side paints work. I managed to polish it all out and get rid of the scuffs. I’ve spent about £4,500 and the car now is awesome. I had a hand built exhaust made for £500 and it sounds incredible on power now. Superb car. I’ve had 2 XK60 anniversary editions which is the best looking XK imo. My next job is alloy wheel refurb. I restored the hood myself and it looks like new again. New boot badges and some trims painted just the front grills to do now. Love the XK. Such a great value car. Front control arms are soo important to tyre wear and the whole feel of the car well worth doing for a couple of hundred quid.
Good luck with it, I hope it goes well and will be keen to see the follow ups. I always lusted for an XJ 12, as a long legged Aussie tourer, but I reckon I would be happy as Larry in your beast, take care
Main dealer £10k. DIY over a weekend, £500.
Great vid
Headlamp cleaning kit ..Halford £25 different grades of wet and dry...fits into a drill..half an hour later ...like new!
I have worked a lot at these jags and this is not untypical of a dealer quote. One tip if the electrics are throwing up random intermittent faults is find and clean all the earth points as these, espescially in a car with a water leak furr up and add unwanted resistance to the circuit, modules then misread data etc and produce errors. One other thing, try to get the antenna up, gentle assistance by hand can help, use a spray lube and run it down, again with a little help, repeat and it will often free up and run normally again., you used to be able to buy just the telescopic bit (mast) which was easily fitted into the motor, havent doen one in a while so not sure about availability now.
Yes Jack....for now. I have identical issues with my 18 year old Lexus. Including: Rear subrame which I had blasted and sealed, also thr headlights were polished, but I have an annoying steering vibration, possibly due to a worn upper wishbone. I try and get various things done economically as they arise but am always slightly worried an expensive job is round the corner (particularly the folding hardtop) that I can't avoid! So far the car has been good (servicing aside), but it needs a rear exhaust section due to identical issues to your Jag and, unsurprisingly, no pattern parts exist. I'm afraid it's a case of fingers crossed 🤞 and keeping them crossed. But they're such lovely cars to drive. lol. I would however, with respect, advise a gentle transmission fluid change (not a flush) if it has not been done already. Good luck and keep up the good work. Merry Christmas all. 🎄
Happy Xmas 🎄 Rob and good luck with the Lexus!!
We have a Touareg. About 100 km from home, on the way back to the UK, just 10% of the journey done, on a motorway, cruise control in operation, suddenly, the cruise control dropped out and lots of warning lights, ABS, Traction Control etc came on along with other notifications. Quite scary at the time, but nothing dangerous. I continued to the UK and went to a garage that I knew. I couldn't take it into VW due to time constraints as we were flying out of the UK the following day. The chap put it on his computer and it threw up four A4 pages of faults! He told me not to worry as it was likely to be just a single item. An ABS sensor to the right o/s rear wheel. I ordered one from VW and collected it on our return. £104 for a small, mainly plastic sensor. Changed it and everything was back to normal.
I think your cruise problem is something similar.
I suggest you climb into the boot with a torch and get someone else to work the hose.
Main dealer prices have always been stupid and I guess you actually KNOW this!
Seems like a sound enough car to me, I reckon you could easily replace the tie bar yourself too, come to that.
Love the shot of climbing inside the boot while the oppo squirts a hose on the car!
Great vid. I'm sure some of those jobs you can do. And the rest done at a garage for a reasonable price. As you said Headlights, grab a polishing kit. Screenwash, drain it, flush it. Clean the filter. Have the exhaust tip that's loose welded.
Came across your video as I’m thinking of buying an XK or XKR and doing as much research as I can. Really interesting video which actually gives me more confidence in buying despite the ludicrous costs quoted by main dealer.
Thanks again for your video.
Glad it was helpful!
We took our Jaguar X-Type to a Jaguar master technician for a fault diagnosis. New prop shaft he said. Got the prop shaft professionally sorted by a specialist and it made no difference to the fault we were experiencing which was a mild vibration when braking. As for main dealers there really are no proper mechanics anymore just replacement specialists. Years ago I got quoted £300 for a caliper replacement on my Audi 100. I rebuilt the caliper with new seals for £20. A mate got quoted £ss for front subframe replacement on the Volvo I sold him. £30 worth of welding sorted it. Main dealers generally don't fix stuff they just replace it. There are exceptions of course. Our local Nissan dealership quoted 45 minutes to replace the drivers side door lock (it couldn't be fixed) on our 18 year old X Trail. It took 3 hours to do it. They still only charged the original quoted price for a ball aching job.
Main dealers only understand finance - nothing else ! Specialists are always the best. They resolve problems rather than replace problems with expensive new parts.
I took my Jaguar XKR to Jaguar Lincoln who said it needed £2000 in repairs. I then took it to an independant Jaguar specialist who charged me an hours labour but could find no faults on what Jaguar Lincoln said I needed doing.
Bought an 07 Convertible XKR in the US East coast with 42k miles on it. Drove it for 7 months and all summer, it was fantastic. I put about 6k miles on it. I got a break on the price when I bought it because the control arm bushings all around the car were disintegrating. I knew that was going to be a big bill to get fixed. $1500 for Michelin tires, $1500 for rotors and pads and about $5k for many tie rods, many control arms. Worth it though, it's a fast and fun car and in the summer it is something else. Hoping the car will keep its value. Did have to fix the dang back window because the seal was bad. Did that myself, not a difficult job but just take your time (for those with a convertible).
I have owned twenty-one vehicles in my driving career.
Everything from $500 twenty-five-year-old rusty Hyundais to new Mercedes Benz.
The only time any of them have had water in the interior is when I left the windows down or sunroof open.
On the ones equipped with cruise control or a power antenna or for that matter any power accessories, they lasted the life of the vehicle.
Interesting.. it’s something I’ve encountered with the majority of the cheaper modern cars I’ve bought
Having worked on the front desk of various franchises within the motor trade I know what a stressful job it is. The workshop loading has to be controlled for each day, each job has to be allocated to a technician with the correct skillset. The jobs have to be completed at the correct time throughout the day as agreed with the customer. Any additional work found needs to be costed and agreed. Each job will have a 'book time' that will need looking up against the cars chassis number, parts will need looking up for costing, consumables added if needed (antifreeze etc). At the same time phones will need to be answered, customers who walk in will need speaking to in person. Fleet systems will need to have jobs loaded onto (1link etc) for authority. Motability cars will need inspections and photos taken. Recalls will need checking, TSB carried out, fire reports to the brand, quality reports to the brand, liaise with Technical, reschedule jobs when parts are on back order ......etc etc. My point being that (perhaps not in this case) service advisors are far too busy to cost additional work just for you tubers content. Take just about any old expensive car into a dealership and you will be guaranteed to get an expensive repair bill. Expensive in=expensive out.
I remember the XJ's I had in the past, (70-80's) all had that problem with the aerial they all stuck at some point, you would have thought they would have come up with a better idea by now, main agent always rip people off, they like to deal with the banks etc who have no idea of value of money, great vlog.
For the screenwash, make up a bleach solution and flush out the system using that. Might be old screen wash that has turned to gel. Heat shield will have been removed to pass an MOT. They're not mediatory but since they corrode and become loose they get removed so that you can pass the test. Buckled wheels are sadly because of the state of the roads; pothole damage.
Recently purchased the same model Jag here in the US. I'll be following to see what kind of content you have.
Found the boot leak came from perished window trim in mine. My choice was to either replace rear window or I bought a small tube of clear window glue that I ran down the window trims. Works in wet. Eventually I replaced window but this was the cheap way of finding if it was the problem. Worth a shot
This reminds me of the time I took my 2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 to the dealer for an inspection. I had a similar laundry list. I only got them to replace the rear subframe as this was covered by the warranty and was the reason it went to the dealer in the first place. I also agreed to have an exhaust clamp and the flexdisc that goes between the propshaft and differential flange replaced because there was no extra labour involved to replace those parts and it was clear in their inspection video that they needed to be replaced. I fixed the other problems myself and come MoT time, the car passed with only 3 advisories.
Obviously for guarantee reasons I have to use a main dealer for my new SVR, and I have to say they’ve been absolutely brilliant (Barrett’s of Ashford). Therefore most things are free. But at £180 per hour labour rates you’d be nuts to take an older car to them. The XK is easy to work on so clearly you could do most of those jobs yourself or take it to one of the many independent Jag specialists that are way cheaper. Get going with the wire brush and headlight polish kit and enjoy a truly beautiful car.
Oh yes, I’d ignore those intermittent faults - I call them Jaguarisms. But you could swap the infotainment system for another used one or (if you have one locally) get a specialist out to upgrade it. I have an excellent guy who has just upgraded my wife’s Volvo to Apple Car Play for less than £500.
Interesting exercise with the JLR dealership and no surprise when you when you look how much overhead recovery they have to achieve with the ridiculously oppulent premises; it makes me cringe every time I visit but they have been very clever to intimidate me into thinking anything other than a genuine Range Rover service history will kill it's resale value. It will be interesting to hear how much you actually spend getting the vehicle up to scratch with a combination of DIY and thriftiness. Good luck with the water leak but based on the amount of owners with the same problem there will no doubt be a solution found soon.
Got yourself a bargain there. Main dealers wont repair anything they only change for new parts. The headlights is an easy fix with wet and dry and T cut. The sub frame is just surface rust and all that is required is a wire brush and Waxoil. As you say, the tie rod arm is a cheap item and easy to change. What mileage is the car ?
I had an old cheap Jag....it was a never-ending money pit. They aren't designed to last much beyond the 10 year mark unless you are prepared to spend a fortune. I will be interested to see how you get on long term. Good luck.
Your cruise control issue can be caused by a dodgy rear wheel speed sensor or even a soft tyre. They're not expensive to replace and an half decent OBD scanner would pick up speed discrepancies. If is gets worse, it might also flag up gearbox issues reported in whatever gear you're in at the time.
Perhaps the bent inner wheels?
its ran also on the rolling circumference of the wheel, so if there was a discrepancy in the value it was getting vs what is should have then that would also cause the issue, like the buckled wheels
Back to my premise. If you can do some or all the jobs yourself the car is a very good buy. Folks have just lost those practical skills and then you're scuppered and at the mercy of rip off car dealers. Look forward immensley to the story. I had an X100 Type XKR softop and as you, I really look after my cars and it was superb. I bought it a new battery and that sorted all the gremlins out and just keep it on a battery conditioner when parked up overnight. No worries. I had no water leaks either. 😂 Good luck. That's one hell of a car for £6,500. Bet there's a good supply of second hand parts too.
A good fun exercise but take it to a proper independent specialist and have them check it over as they will know what to look for - main dealers have no idea about cars of that age and as you note, only use a parts replace model. Also, spray / brush the whole underside with Lanoguard - about £120 for your car - it stop any further corrosion and also, importantly, protect the suspension rubbers / bushes from further decay. Well worth a half days effort and Lanoguard is the best protectant around in my view having tried most things over the years. When doing the headlamp polish make sure you get a kit with a good UV sealant so it doesn't fade. Enjoy the jag.
I had an Stype Jag 15 years ago. During a main dealer service I mentioned the drivers side mirror wasn’t folding properly. Their answer was to quote me £800 for a new replacement. I took the car home and I fixed the problem with a quick squirt of WD40 - for less than a penny. I then looked at the job spec for a JLR service manager. It was all about upselling services and maximising revenue and margin, nothing about the interests of the customer. I never went back to a JLR main dealer again.
You can probably get the aerial to work by dripping penetrating oil or WD40 down it and working it by hand (you may need a helper to turn the radio on and off!). I did this on my 2001 XK8 and 2004 XKR with complete success. Or don't use the radio - the 4 "speakers" at the back should be plenty entertaining! 🙂
meh. my MX5 aerial never extended, didn;t miss it at all
If you can't polish out the headlights you might be able to buy just the glass and swap the internals over - that's what my independent did for me when I got a cracked glass in my 2004 XKR. £200 plus a bit of labour against £2000 was rather a saving! Hope you can get to the bottom of that boot leak - none of the Jags I've had (2001 XK8, 2004 XKR, 2010 XKR and current 2018 F-Type) have had such misfortune. Mind you, I paid rather more than £6k for them!
It's not glass - that's why they're cloudy... Which means they will come up like new when sanded and buffed
At the end of the video we saw you climb into the trunk and a second gentleman started hosing down the rear hatch from its highest point. You probably know to start low and slow (is that true in most of life?). He needs to know as well.
Thanks for the ever entertaining content!
Brian
Best & easiest/ cheapest way to clear faded headlights is Autosol metal polish either by hand or a polishing mop, works perfectly every time 👍🏻
I had a BMW 528 Touring that ran the offside rear tyre flat on a dirt road and buckled the rim. Found a fellow that straightened wheel rims using a spinning lathe (Sydney, Australia) and he rolled the buckle out so well that when the new tyre was fitted it needed minimal balance weights to balance it.
The 528 suffered from failure to enable the cruise control command but that was due to an electrical fault in the ignition switch. Failed twice for the same reason in the 15 years that I owned the car.
Water leaks ha!. A long time ago one of my Engineers discovered an automotive device comprised of two parts. One was an untrasonic sound generator that you turned on and sat inside the car. The other bit was a receiver that you went around edges of windscreens, panel seams etc. looking for escaping sound. In those days output was three LEDs, green OK, yellow slight leak, red bad leak. Test had to be done when the car dried out as water in the leak path would block the sound otherwise it was a very useful device. Probably a modern version is still available.
Heat shield rusts around the bolts and falls on the exhaust. Previous owner probably ripped it out. Most put washers on the bolts to hold it up.
Leak usually comes from left hand side vent by rear light.
I've had many prestige cars over the years and could only afford them as done virtually all work needed and servicing myself . Main dealers { stealers} factor in flashy showrooms so called free coffee/ drinks etc etc while your waiting . Ive really only ever visited them for e-calls and when I could only get apart from them. The headlamps is only a temporary cure . You really need to rub them down and re-coat spray with a good quality 2K clear lacquer with UV protection for a lasting result . Well done nice car .
I remember having a bad water leak in the boot of a Rover Fastback 820 back in the mid 90's - I could not trace where it was coming from so ended up drilling two holes in the floor preventing it from gathering.
When i sold the car I plugged both of them up with rubber grommets.
3M headlight renovation kit, Amazon for £15.00 ish. Works fantastically! Like new once done. Highly recommend especially over £4plus grand for new light units!!