Sam is a longtime friend and project collaborator. When you were visiting his shop in Olympia, I'm surprised that-always highly practical- Sam didn't suggest permanently NAILING the outer layer of resin-coated 1/4" plywood in place. One fastener that would have worked is 18-gauge, 3/4"-long stainless-steel brads driven out of a pneumatic or electric gun so that the heads were just below the surface of the plywood.. This would have been MUCH quicker and at least as effective as the screws and washers you used to secure the 1/4" panels and then had to remove. I mention this NOT to criticize (you did an EXCELLENT job with this Pelicano) but simply to suggest an alternative for others who take on a boat that calls for cold-molding plywood. And, who knows? Perhaps one day you'll take on another, larger Devlin design! Best, Chris
Almost like you read my mind on a bigger boat! Maybe one day! I'm curious now what he would say. Because in reading his book, he very definitively says not to leave any metal from the stitches because the difference in the material's reaction to temperature over time could cause the stitch to work it's way out through the final finish. I imagine a nail or a staple could have a similar reaction.
I’m really enjoying this build series, man. I’m in the Puget Sound region and I have a couple of Sam’s designs on my short list for my next project so it’s cool to see you going through one. Keep it up! 👍👍
You should have cut the plywood on an angle rath3r than at 90deg to the chine. Cutting the ply on a 45deg angle to,the grain and chine gives easier bending and flow, less sanding as well
Any surface where there is a concave surface, this works well. Look back to the cold moulded yachts of the 1930's on, they used diagonal planking to follow the curves of the hull.. Also if you bevel the edges, then they lock in together. And you get a better, line and seal.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Sam is a longtime friend and project collaborator. When you were visiting his shop in Olympia, I'm surprised that-always highly practical- Sam didn't suggest permanently NAILING the outer layer of resin-coated 1/4" plywood in place. One fastener that would have worked is 18-gauge, 3/4"-long stainless-steel brads driven out of a pneumatic or electric gun so that the heads were just below the surface of the plywood.. This would have been MUCH quicker and at least as effective as the screws and washers you used to secure the 1/4" panels and then had to remove.
I mention this NOT to criticize (you did an EXCELLENT job with this Pelicano) but simply to suggest an alternative for others who take on a boat that calls for cold-molding plywood. And, who knows? Perhaps one day you'll take on another, larger Devlin design! Best, Chris
Almost like you read my mind on a bigger boat! Maybe one day!
I'm curious now what he would say. Because in reading his book, he very definitively says not to leave any metal from the stitches because the difference in the material's reaction to temperature over time could cause the stitch to work it's way out through the final finish. I imagine a nail or a staple could have a similar reaction.
Good help is hard to find! Excellent videos.
I’m really enjoying this build series, man. I’m in the Puget Sound region and I have a couple of Sam’s designs on my short list for my next project so it’s cool to see you going through one. Keep it up! 👍👍
I like that you're looking at a couple designs. I'm not finished with this one and I'm already thinking about "the next one"
You should have cut the plywood on an angle rath3r than at 90deg to the chine.
Cutting the ply on a 45deg angle to,the grain and chine gives easier bending and flow, less sanding as well
Makes sense!
Any surface where there is a concave surface, this works well.
Look back to the cold moulded yachts of the 1930's on, they used diagonal planking to follow the curves of the hull..
Also if you bevel the edges, then they lock in together. And you get a better, line and seal.
We call it 'stringing'. Using parachute cord you removing air bubbles. Stringing them out. Forcing the air bubbles to an exit.
That's an awesome trick!