Building a Stirling Engine that is Wood Fired - Part 3 - (Hopefully 500W + )
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มิ.ย. 2024
- Building of Hot Air Stirling Engine Generator that should give over 500w
Home built rocket wood Stove fired alpha stirling engine generator, water cooled! Will it work?
To see other videos of the Mk3 stirling engine:
• Building a Stirling En...
Contents
0:00 Introduction
14:53 Build video
12:43 Progress so far!
I've made a fair bit of progress so far but it has been fairly hectic with family/work commitments as well! The main frame has been put together along with a few other bits and bobs.
I've been trying keep the momentum going and getting all the hard stuff done first so I can enjoy putting the final bits together
So, the firebox/ chimney is mostly complete and the heat exchangers are ready for final weld up
I'm trying to decide if I should put it on some sort of trolley or simply move it around using sack trucks
Feel free to comment with any ideas / advice
Thanks for looking
If you need to contact me:
shanepomeroy@hotmail.co.uk - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I'm rooting for that wobbly workhorse.
Pushing through the slog and into the fun stuff...
Can't wait to see it working, I've got a thing for Sterling engines.
A genny,makes them all the better.
People might call an engine like this useless and impractical in the modern world. But I'll tell you what, in the event of any kind of societal collapse you'll be very glad to have an engine that runs on anything flammable. There's this big dick energy about being the only dude in a zombie apocalypse that can turn the lights on
Top fabrication, it's going to be an awesome engine!
Waiting for the finished product, and anticipating plans to copy!
And when you post the plans, make sure you give us a Patreon link.
I'll get it finished as soon as I can : ) . I never had much to do with Patreon! How exactly does it work? Cheers
@@ShanePomeroy Basically, you sign up, they verify you, and I can send you money without either of us finding out personal details.
As far as the Nuts and Bolts go, I don't have one either, but I'm sure their website has a nice FAQ.
Hi Shane. Mate if you put the air adjuster in the middle front of the door maybe it won't tip; just a thought. Thanks for the video, looking good.
Great advice, I think that would solve it. I'll finish the engine first, and when I've regained some enthusiasm I'll move it! many thanks
Savoring every moment of this.
I hope the end product works lol : )
Looks amazing!
Very nice Shane, can't wait to see the next update, keep up the good work! Cheers
Great job!!! It’s looking good!!
I bet you leveled up your welding skill several notches making up those heat exchangers!
Lol! Some of it was a learning curve! It never comes out quite how you imagine!
Hi Shane,
verry impressive, I really like your engines and videos.
I am verry curious of your new engine and how it will perform.
But you really need a tig welding machine...
I also build Stirling engines but I do it the other way with small working volumes but higher pressures and sometimes I think of moving more into higher volumes when I watch your amazing videos.
Keep up the good work it is really impressive.
Many greetings
Ralf
Greetings Ralf, I've watched a fair few of your videos and am very impressed. I agree I need a tig welder. I have access to one but it's a bit unofficial : ). Their not too expensive so maybe I'll get one. My approach is slightly less scientific/ technical than yours! On this engine I've been trying to maximise the heater/cooler/regenerator surface area while keeping the compression ratio 2:1. All the best and keep up the good work.
Have you read Andy Ross's article on a Sterling powered rowboat being used on a reservoir in Norway? I have the article in a copy of Live Steam magazine from 1981 or 1982. It's an inline unit with the rod for the displacer running through the center of the power piston. He said it move the boat at a brisk rowing speed.
I am aware of that boat but have not read that particular article. I'll have a look on ebay/ amazon to try and get a copy, many thanks
Always enjoy your vids, tungsten disulfide might be beneficial on your leather seals. It is said to reduce friction and is a dry lubricant. Thanks for what you do.
Thanks, I'll look into that. All the best
You've made great progress. I'm afraid you're doing it too hastily. Will this affect the accuracy of the performance? I try on three times before I weld something. Can you get the water tightness? You have great skills, it's nice to see how well the welds come out. Regards
You might me very right. The most mistakes seem to come from filming at the same time! My brain doesn't do multi-tasking! All good comments and I suppose I'll find out soon if it doesn't work : ) all the best
Thinking about the trouble you had in the previous build with piston seals/rings, had you thought about making the piston out of brass? It has a lower friction than steel and it seems to me that it should cope with the heat. Or even a brass sleeve over it. Just a thought.
Towards the end of the last engine I went back to leather lip seals which do work pretty well with an appropriate relief ring and very thin oil. Brass is a very good idea. I'll need to see what tube sizes are available unless I can work out how to construct one. Thank you for your thoughts, all the best
Здравствуйте из Казахстана . Желаю побыстрей закончить проект.
Shane I saw you tacked the flat tubes into the heat exchanger but how did you do the final weld to seal them up ?? Especially on the cold water side ??
Haven't welded them yet. Planning to fuse these in with a tig welder and then pressure test to show me where all the leaks are!
@@ShanePomeroy Shane only use 1- 2 psi to test. A few years back our fabricator used 15 psi to test a tank with a false bottom. Turned it inside out. Be careful. I made a tank for a wood stove once just small same thing but all the walls popped out round and took that shape.
@@perrymattes4285 sound advice, thank you for the heads up!