@@startmaking1 I’m going to be somewhere near Seven Oaks in Kent but not exactly sure yet. We are looking for a property with a garage so I can have a workshop! Perhaps I can come visit it your workshop sometime once I’m settled. Do you have any woodworking contacts in that area, I won’t know anyone so am keen to join a woodworking group/club!
@Kathryn Newton lovely area. So far my workshop is a tiny shed but if I get a real one, I will definitely extend an invite. We don't have a circle of woodworkers around me sadly, most of the socialising I do is online . That said. I am considering setting up a community's discord.server or something like that. Good way to get people chatting
Hi Adam. You are right and for that reason I not only need about another 5 sets of draws but also a larger workshop to put them in. You never know when you are going to need the tool that you have had for 10 years but don't fully know how to use. Like my plough plane I am embarrassed to say
Thank you for not assuming everyone has a shop with a table saw. That is a big investment in shop floor space, which sometimes comes with a significant investment in the house the shop is attached to.
@@startmaking1 Hey, you show yourself working with a circular saw, which is much easier to have on hand for the average homeowner, as it doesn’t require much dedicated space.
I love your attitude. Mistakes are often edited out and downplayed, if not denied. The common view is that they're failures, when in fact they are the best lessons you are going to get if you have the attitude to learn from them. Thanks for promoting this, and I loved your final product.
I really like your videos. I love how you are so "happy go lucky" about it.... Building for your shop that is. No big deal, just "git'er done" It is a shop after all!
Thoroughly enjoyed this video old chap. I fully agree with you, something in the workshop is not furniture and does not have to be 100% perfect. In my workshop I have the following motto: it must be: 1. as cheap as possible, using scraps of wood wherever possible and even if it means having to join boards and they are visible. 2. as quickly as possible. 3. If you want to criticize it, well then, you are welcome to build me a perfect one at your own time and expense. Top draw - a super duper idea. Paste wax - Floor wax will bake the drawers slide easier maybe even shim the drawer with or the dados for a tighter fit - plastic will also work. Have a blessed day.
Thank you so much. I love the motto. by the way. Brilliant. Shimming is a really good idea. So far wax is working but if I was to do it again plastic shims would be a good fix to my lack of accuracy.
I absolutely love that you don't just hide/mention your mistakes, you *highlight* them. As someone with RSD and struggles around not doing things "perfectly" the first time, seeing stuff like that helps ease that mindset some. Love the idea of making fully pull-out drawers as pseudo jig storage as well!
Thank you. I really cant make anything without making errors if I am honest. Perfect in my opinion can never exist for me. But it can for other people seeing what I have made. There are so many imperfections that they just wont / cant see. Though, that said, I understand that it is really hard not to keep telling yourself that it is not good enough. It is. Oh, and the jig storage actually happened this week. Not quite the same as draw less cabinets as the jigs were not all a uniform width but I am happy with it. I will have the video ready at some stage in August, fingers crossed. Thank you for commenting. Much appreciated.
Cheap and easy too. Draw runners are expensive with this many draws and heavy too. This cost whatever one sheet of 12mm ply and half of 18mm comes to. Here is was around £100.
Loved the video. As always, it's entertaining, practical and informative. One tip I would add for wooden drawer runners. Give them a good rub with a wax candle. I did this to sideboard drawer runners that I made about fifteen years ago and they have always ran super smooth. I've never needed to apply any more wax in all that time.
Thank you again James. Great tip, Since making I have added the wax as it seemed to be the most commented tip on this one and now I have to be careful not to yank the draws too strongly as they slide so well. Thank you
Thank you. I did have to go through the entire description and title to replace the work draw with drawer. What a wally. It is super handy though. Not sure what I will put there in the second one I make. Has to be something fun,
I think I have watched this video at least 3 times in the past 3-4 months and that Sapele gets me every time. I absolutely love the way it looks! I’ve been trying find some near me.
I get the sapele delivered as the place also thicknesses it too which is a massive help when you dont have the tools. I love the look of it especially when you get an almost golden grain. If you are UK based it is called tools and timber that I get it from.
I cant believe that I didnt know the difference. And that it will forever be on YT to remind me lol. I am happy to hear that it has inspired you though as that is exactly my aim here. Thank you
Great channel, content & solution. Mistakes were made but at the end of the day, they're your mistakes & are a reminder that you're human. Lastly, candle wax or paste wax will greatly reduce friction on the runners. Keep on making 🇺🇸!
Hi Tony. thank you for your lovely comment. I am seeing a common theme with the candle wax. Lucky I use it on the bottom of planes. It will be applied tomorrow. thank you
As it's a more budget friendly alternative, I do the same 👍. I don't know much, learning as I go as well. But what I do know, I like to pass along whenever possible. Take care! Keep up the content. You're more enjoyable than most on YT as you see to be more passionate (may be a little extreme with wording there, lol) about e everything you do! Which personally, I appreciate!
Cut the length of handles After routing would be safer--all that said, I like the design, and especially how the draw fronts cover all by the rabbeted front to accept the drawer fronts, and the sharpening station--because my stuff currently IS where I am less likely to use.
Hey there..... remember that video you made about promoting smaller channels? Well I just stumbled across this young man here.... www.youtube.com/@GillisBjork If you are unaware of him then you are in for a treat! @@startmaking1
Hi David. People think that I am overselling this build in some regards., But for the cost and the flexibility, it is perfect. I had the same clutter issue and now, everything has its place. Well, until I buy more stuff. I very much plan to have at least 2 more of differing sizes in the new shop. Well worth checking out the original on the hooked on wood channel. His whole shop looks amazing and uses similar draws. His idea.
@@startmaking1 Hi Mark, thanks for the tip, I will check it out. Thanks for convincing me you don’t need drawer runners, it’s a workshop cabinet, a little candle wax works wonders if required. Have a nice day!
Great video so far, can I just mention about your tear out. Yes shallow passes are helpful but a sacrificial board or a piece of insulation sheet to take the blades through makes the world of difference
Hi Stephen. Thank you so much. I was pleasantly surprised by how well they work. Also you don't need to get the sides of the box exact as they never touch the sides of the cabinet or runners. Just the base. Much easier. Good luck with the new garage. Enjoy filling it with cool tools.
Hi James. Thats really kind. It's quite heavy to steal though, or do you just want to take the top drawer lol. Seriously though, thank you. I mentioned a couple of things I would do differently if I had another go at it. They are in the I was wrong video. One thing that I mention worth considering is whether it is worth rebating all the drawers or whether it is easier to cut pieces of ply to attach with spaces in the sides, thus creating a rebate without routing. Not that this way has any issues that I have found since the build, just routers are messy. Have a great weekend.
@@startmaking1 Thank you so much. I will go watch the "I was wrong" video as well. I did see some who were using extra ply as well, but, as you mentioned, it's already heavy, and as I do intend to make it part of a pack-out system (I'm an apartment woodworker, and need to bring my things to a nearby outside area to work) weight and stability are a constant balance. I look forward to watching your other video and learning from it. Thank you!!!!
I like the drawer bottom runner design. It eliminates quite a bit of measuring and fitting. I would prefer solid hard pine drawer fronts though. My old skin would suffer battle scars if I used plywood. Wakodahatchee Chris
LOVE the sharpening drawer - Great idea (I may just have to steal it.... ;). Seriously, I do need to create a small chest like yours to clear up my clutter and your clear instructions and example will be my guide - Thanks for sharing!
Hi Jim. thank you very much. I have used it a couple of times now and have to say that although it needs a little tweaking, it definitely makes sharpening much easier. Also the draws are so easy and forgiving. Don't need to worry too much about the draw sides being square as the base does all of the fit. Really easy. Good luck
love this, have been looking for just this style for storage. Your first cross cut of plywood....lay a strip of masking/painters etc tape and then cut you will eliminate a huge amount of ripout.
Nice set of drawers. I need to rewatch this as I have soooo much ju- err, yet-to-find-a-use-for things that need storage. I probably want to integrate the drawers into a new workbench…. (He says, hoping Mark needs a new - preferably mobile - workbench for his new workshop and wants to make a video about its construction)
More storage means less tough decisions on what is necessary. you know, I actually am planning a new workbench with a built in table saw if I can decide which one. the only issue is I am definitely not an expert on benches. And making large things like that. but I really want a huge one, top the size of a sheet of ply, so it covers all bases.
I am always looking for ways to maximise storage in my small workshop so this build is ideal. My work bench currently looks like yours at the start of the video.
A few improvements I would suggest is first make all the faces out of the same part of ply. The grain will all line up & look much better. Next the grain orientation with the grain vertical is the weakest possible. Some folk claim plywood has crossing grain & it doesn't matter. Try saying that after snapping a board like these in half with your bare hands as compared to running the grain horizontally. Last the problem with trying to support the drawer on edge grain of plywood is friction becomes a great pain. There are more than a few ways around this with either a metal or hardwood ledge. Love the Top drawer btw. Great idea.
Perfect timing. Just yesterday, I started work on a storage unit for the new workshop space (we've moved everything to a slightly larger space). I haven't got a complete design yet, but the plan is to have a taller unit with drawers on the left, with a tool wall next to it, ideally with a ledge at a good working height below the tool. I haven't decided whether to build the router table into the ledge. Great idea for the sharpening section. I'll probably steal that idea, and also use similar drawer runners to your design (inspired by Hooked on Wood).
congrats on the new space. I bet that is exciting. Very jealous. The draw runners work great and I am glad that Hooked on Wood made it so simple. The sharpening station is genuinely one that I am very proud of. Not seen it stored in this way. I like you idea of combining all parts together. From having a small router table, I have to say that space around it is key for me as I had no idea how much was needed and also the mess that it generated. If you can get it in considering these things then it is a great idea. Would love to see the progress as it happens.
@@startmaking1 Don't be jealous. It's a shared space (four of us leasing it) and not very big (just under 400 sq ft, but it's still larger than the 300 sq ft space we were leasing). Good point about the router table. I have an idea I may try.
Nice Project👍🏼 just a small thing… Pocket holes should not go outward towards the end of a board, but go from the outsider towards the middle (stronger) part of the board.
Just a small suggestion, when drilling you pocket holes the way your drill them (5:43) this present or provide less strength, due to that the screw has less material to grab, than if you do it the other way has more material and strength, and example is when building drawers with the jig, all your connecting holes are from outside to the inside direction. Hopefully I am clears as mud😂.
I can appreciate your note about safety equipment when using the router table. In my opinion, the router is the most dangerous tool in the shop and I’ve had one too many close calls.
excellent work!! I was smiling most of the video! Although we both speak english, alot of what was said, I was having a hard time tracking - it must be me, though, due to the northern hemispheric english I swim in. Well done - keep it up! Hartley [garden grove, CA usa]
Hi, Mark. I love your workshop. I have some ideas myself and... frequently I steal some of yours. This storage unit is perfect. Thank you very much.💚💛🇧🇷
Hi Maria. Thank you for commenting. Very kind. You are welcome to any idea you like. I am glad to have helped in any way. If you ever have an idea that you think I will like feel free to reach out.
Hi, Mark. Great idea and project. A couple people suggested wax on the drawer edges and runners. That is a very good idea, but go with the paraffin/candle wax. Bee's wax is good for screws and bolts but will tend to soak into the plywood, a bit, in your hot climate, and then not do it's job. Paraffin/candle wax is harder and will not soak in, so easily, and continue to work. Rub hard and get a good coating. 😁✌🖖
Hi Zapa1pnt. I am going to apply candle wax I think. I have some in the shed and I think it will do the trick. Thank you. I know I say it a lot but thank you for watching and more so for commenting. Means a lot.
Great idea! Love the top drawer idea! Though use furniture or bee's wax in the drawer slides! And alas, expansion/contraction of the wood with temp & humidity changes, what works well in winter might stick in summer! And suggest screwing the front to the bottom & sides, since now the entire weight in the drawer is being pulled by the front, the glue bond alone may not be enough, else could rip off the front when trying to get the drawer out 😮. The nails may just pull out, since they are in the same direction as the force...
Drawers are the way to go, or in my case small parts organisers from B&Q for about £3. Bought a couple of dozen of them for the same price as a piece of ply, made a rough frame out of scrap 2" x 1", used plaster metal edging strips to support the cases. Job done, and boy do they hold some stuff. I also made an additional section to hold a number of green first aid boxes I had. These are bigger than the other cases but hold an incredible array of heavy stuff like grinding discs and nuts and bolts. Moral of the story, use what you have lying around and think outside the box before committing yourself. BTW a dymo label maker is incredibly useful for identifying the contents of these cases.
Hi Costa, These are my first proper draws in the shop. Absolute night and day difference to the amount I can store. Yours sound like a super cheap and effective way to go. I suspect that they are already more than full. I thought about a labelling system. Thank you for the recommendation, You are right about using what you have. The screws for instance came out of boxes that I have kept for lesser used stuff that can live in the cupboard. I sense that we are not all that dissimilar overall. Brilliant.
Good ideas, I'll make sure to poach some of them. Thank you for sharing! Building one's own storage is way more convenient and cheaper than buying it. Couple of things though. Some have been already mentioned like tear out and "greasing" the runners. One can use paste wax, a candle or an old bar of Savon de Marseille (the older, the better) as furniture makers of old were doing. Pocket screws have a higher strength when angled away from the edge. More important, IMHO I'm not sure all the routing and setup is really worth it when I can have a pair of full extension ball bearing drawer slides with 100lb capacity for about $6 delivered to my door.
Thank you, you are welcome to them. And thank you for the advice. I wish that I could get even half decent runners for that price. Though I really do like the fact that the draws weigh so little.
I love the dado you put in the drawers to make sections!! I live in Japan and a Makita user like you. Makita is a Japanese brand but not so many Japanese do DIY. I am a female DIYer using the garage full of tools my dad left. I already made about 10 furniture since July and I was planning to make a tool cabinet to place in the half outdoor garage. Drawer slides would not work due to dust so I was wondering how to make it the old fashioned way. It looks more difficult and time consuming. I have the same Makita trimmer so I have to use it a lot more. Cheers!
Thank you. Drawer slides are really pricey too. And heavy. you could also just add in blocks of wood to the sides leaving a gap the size of the rebate if that is easier, more wood but less router work. I saw Wittworks do this recently.
I've just discovered your channel mate and I'm already hooked. I love the simplicity of everything from the designs, your workspace, editing and presentation. It's exactly what's missing from the vast majority of woodworking channels that I've subscribed to. Right, thats enough typing from me, I've got more of your videos to watch 👍
That is very kind. thank you. I hope that in the future the builds will grow with the new workshop. But not to the extent of the larger channels. Somewhere in between. Thank you for coming along.
Hi Shane. I told my wife this comment and she agrees with your missus. Oh well. Thank you for the kind comment. From now on all mistakes will be shown. I think it is more helpful than not.
Brilliant, Mark! You should be proud. I like the sharpening station a great deal. It's probably too heavy for an old guy, like me, to take out and in. Geezer hint, use some candle wax on the runners. Just take one of your wife's scented candles and rub the bottom along the plywood. It's a durable, affordable and readily available lubricant and needs to be re-applied maybe once a year. Cheers. Also, thanks for transitioning from mils to inches during the explanation. Mind blown. Lastly, could you tell me how long the entire project took you to complete? Thanks.
hi. Thank you as always for a lovely comment. The sharpening station is a little hefty but Im sure you could swing it around. I did consider having it on runners under a workbench. That could work well. Candles seem to be the running theme and I will definitely apply some next time I am down the shed. The draws will probably shoot out after that. As far as the mm to inches, I have to be honest, I am very much confused by which one I use and seem to use a mixture of both, less than ideal. I do need to make sure that I get both in but also that I can keep up with which one I am measuring in. I kid you not, I am planning a very large build and half the measurements are in one and half on the other and I am converting. It is not ideal. As far as time, that is always hard to total as I am filming. Though, breaking it down into parts, I think that the carcass took around 3 hours, though the measuring and marking of the router lines could easily be reduced. More thought, less mistakes. The draws tool a while, around 5 hours. Though with a table saw and mitre saw this could easily be less. The trim was around 3 hours and then all of the handles and finishing probably another 3 hours. Then the video editing took around 25 hours as I am rubbish at it haha. I hope that this helps. Though I have no doubt a pro like you could knock this out better and faster, no joke.
@@startmaking1 Thank you for thinking I am a "professional." I guess since I get payed for what I do, I am. But I was a school of hard knocks apprentice and started out as builder more than a wood worker. That's why I enjoy your channel since I am watching you develop into a fine craftsman. And, you have some great ideas, e.g. the dadoed runners. My home shop is also a restricted space, so I am always looking for ways to maximize efficiency. Usually, that entails shuffling the shop around at least twice a year. Keep up the good work, and thanks again.
I love your validation to make mistakes, we all do. However I always feel extremely stupid when I do. I will stop being so hard on myself. Allow to fail and learn
I think it is human to feel silly when we make mistakes. It's how we move on from them I guess that counts. there isnt a woodworker in the world who doesnt make mistakes, just some dont show you them. Be kind to yourself as this is not just a job/hobby, for me anyway, it is relaxation and a form of therapy.
Great build! It reminds me of a similar idea from Jer Schmidt here on TH-cam. His build is more intimidating though, as I feel his solution is perhaps a bit over engineered.
I am never one to over engineer. More likely to under engineer in truth. I will have to check out that channel though as it is not one I have encountered. Thank you
Making mistakes is a form of learning,,,,, I like this cabinet,,,, you have done well I have a question though regarding the stones, do you have a problem with them from being wet and in a “drawer”?
So very true. As for the sharpening draw. No issues at all. I think it is because I give it a light wipe down after use and more importantly, thr drawer is far from well fitted so gets a fair bit of air flow
Hi Ondrej. Firstly, thank you for watching and for reaching out with a comment. The pocket hole jig that I use is the Kreg jig. Not cheap but makes pocket holes so much faster and cleaner than what I had before. Here is the model etc Kreg KPHJ720PRO-21 - Kreg Pocket-Hole Jig 720PRO I hope that helps. Happy for any questions.
Well this was a nice addition to my weekend viewing take it this was the stuff u was fighting month or so ago?? Looks wicked though. Just a couple tips painters tape ontop the ply stop the tear out and bit beeswax on the runners make it slide bit easier. I'll catch up with u. 👍🏴👏 Ps this is deffo sommit am gonna have to look at building you've seen part my shop and it's full junk and you haven't even seen the half it!
Hey Bud. Thank you very much. Yes this was the wrestle that I told you about. Turned out ok but the video probably doesn't show how much stress each mistake made even if they were good to learn from and don't ruin the build. I kick myself for not grabbing the painters tape. I also think it is time to get a better blade for plywood. Maybe . You could easily build this. And you don't even need to rout the grooves could easily just screw batons for the draws to sit on. Up to you. As always I am happy to help if you need it. Although I doubt you need it.
@@startmaking1 yea if a remember right it's a higher tooth count blade for plywood but don't quote me on that. No the video doesn't send over the stress u went through with it. 🤣 U seem pretty calm in the video. A think when a do attempt it I'll end up using the table saw and just bump the fence wee bit each time to give me the grove cause we no how a feel about routers. I'll need send u shot my router and bits ave never used it and no idea what's what with them. Am certainly gonna need to build it for storage I have boxes and shelves of junk!! and yea I'll shout when a come to doing it
Wow, I built a few like this many years ago...Mine came out a bunch better though ;) Suggest moving back of drawer in about 3 " from the ends of the sides and drawer bottom to allow for 'full extension' with out risk of the drawer falling out, use much tighter tolerances, 1/4" oil hardened or tempered Masonite for the drawer bottoms, and bee's wax or candle wax as suggested for sliding surfaces. You went to an awful lot of trouble for anything titled "make easy", imo. I made the drawer tops flat (flush sides to back)and sized to be a very thin hair below flush with the bottom of the groove for the drawer above it. If done right, the drawers are almost air tight with no opportunity to wiggle and flop around as they slide. Glue and screw the bottom to the drawer sides and back. Make them tight - You can always sand and trim, but no one wants a fit any looser than necessary. You can cut the Masonite over sized and trim it after the drawers are assembled with router or table saw.
Hi Jerry. Thank you for commenting. And congratulations on your draws, they sound stunning. I think to be honest, we were aiming at very different finishes. I may not have gotten it across in the video, my fault, but what makes these so easy is that you don't worry about the sides of the drawers being snug with the carcass. Just fit the base and take it easy because it is shop furniture. I could never aim it at beginners and say this is.how you get everything practically air tight. It's not attainable for a lot of people, me included. Though, I have to say, well done, yours do truly sound perfect. Thank you for sharing.
wouldn't Masonite bottoms wear more than plywood,from sliding the drawers in and out? OTOH,maybe some of that UHDPE tape on the cabinet groove bottom might alleviate that wear.
Great work. Love the sharpening station. Mine is currently stuck to a chopping board which hangs of the wall. Did you ever think about putting in some kind of drawer stops?
Yes, I really should have done. But I was obsessed with making the drawers removable so you could swap them around and move the more popular stuff to the top . I also wanted to build more units that fitted the same draws. In 6 months, I have yet to swap a drawer and doubt I ever will. Should have put stops in.
@@startmaking1 Rob Cosman did a video on draw stops. He did a nice one which pushes up when you put in the drawer, then drops down again to stop the drawer opening too far. If you want to remove the drawer, you just need to push the stop up with your hand. But as you've mentioned, this wouldn't work with the different sizes 🙂
Hi Tektrixter. I have just rewatched that section after reading this. Oh my, you are so right. I didn't fit the one that I have. What a silly error. Thank you. Also I am going to add some adjustable boards on the fence to shorten the gap around the bit. The handles were very sketchy, so whatever I can do will make me feel better for the next time. Always learning. Thank you
Mark. Good video. I'm going to guess you're a tech guy who knows how to make videos do well rather than a time served woodworker. Not a problem, sharing is great, wether right or wrong. Jamie
Hi Jamie. Thank you. Absolutely no idea about tech. Literally my biggest weakness. Just determined to give it my beat shot. Woodworking, I am learning. End of the day this is a channel to hopefully show people that they can do more than they think they can. Something like that anyway. I've always said I am no expert. Not teaching.
Yeah, I still kick myself for my laziness on this build. Didn't think it would look as nice as it does and so I didn't worry about tear out enough. Silly.
Can I give you a little advice? - Make the drawer fronts out of the same piece of ply and number them. That way the grains will all match at least at the front face instead of them all being random. I'd only have random fronts if it was all out of scrap, not from a nice new piece of ply. - When cutting the sides, instead of having the grain go upwards have it running longways. You'll find over time it will it won't tend to warp. - If you rebated the fronts of the drawers (and bottom), you can drive nails in at the sides (instead of the front) hiding the nails and making it look much better. While it's nice to have full depth of drawers, adding a little waste at the end for when you pull the drawer out lets the drawer hang there without falling - maybe about 70-100mm depending on how heavy the contents of the drawers will be.
You can always give me advice. It is the way I learn the most. I wrote this before reading the rest of the comment. The face advice is brilliant. The reason I didn't do it apart from not knowing is because I planned to move the draws around. Up to date, they have not moved, I should have done them like you said. The grain sideways is really intriguing. I figured as ply it was equally stable both ways. But now I think about it, it must have more grain running the way the faces do as they match. Nice advice again. I definitely should have left room because the screw draw particularly is one that I am moments away from dropping and it is the one that I dont want to. What a great comment. I learnt a lot and you made it so easy to understand. Thankyou
@@startmaking1 No worries. I had the advantage of having a father who was a carpenter for 50 years that instilled a lot of general knowledge on how to build things. You tend to pick a lot of info up over the years that you don't even remember but pops out on occasions. I was building stuff in his workshop from about the age of 5 or 6. I was building cupboards at 10 LOL. My sister still has one of them and I'm 50 now. Guess it makes it vintage now 😂🤣 In theory you'd be correct about ply in that they sandwich opposing grains. In reality it just tends to warp more with the grain running across it. Cut a few strips, lay them down and leave them for a few days and see what I mean. It's not always the case but you tend to find it more from big box stores as they sell the cheapest crap they can. Its just good practice, same as masking ply when cutting across the grain.
@@startmaking1 Well if you're going to build something, try and build it right the first time. Doesn't always happen, but we try. I built an electronics parts cabinet out of scrap MDF until I had time to build a proper one. It's still here 25 years later LOL. Not the best thing I've ever made, but functional.
I fear that my new workshop will end up being clad in the same, scrap wood cleats that I made in the last shed. I was supposed to throw them out and make a fresh batch but that seems not to be in my nature. Oh well.
Let me know what you think of the top draw (not draw).
Like it a lot - I’m packing up my tools and hope to have a workshop in England in the next few months - where are you based?
@@kathrynnewton8721 Oxfordshire here. Where are you thinking of moving too
@@startmaking1 I’m going to be somewhere near Seven Oaks in Kent but not exactly sure yet. We are looking for a property with a garage so I can have a workshop! Perhaps I can come visit it your workshop sometime once I’m settled. Do you have any woodworking contacts in that area, I won’t know anyone so am keen to join a woodworking group/club!
@Kathryn Newton lovely area. So far my workshop is a tiny shed but if I get a real one, I will definitely extend an invite. We don't have a circle of woodworkers around me sadly, most of the socialising I do is online . That said. I am considering setting up a community's discord.server or something like that. Good way to get people chatting
Great idea👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
I don't have junk, I just have stuff I haven't used yet but have had on standby for 10 years.
Hi Adam. You are right and for that reason I not only need about another 5 sets of draws but also a larger workshop to put them in. You never know when you are going to need the tool that you have had for 10 years but don't fully know how to use. Like my plough plane I am embarrassed to say
I have a coffee can full,of sheet metal screws left over from when I worked as an apprentice electrician 53 years ago.
@@pitsnipe5559 …
effina
What a feeling when you do use it after 10 years!
Keep the mistakes coming, we can all relate to them I am sure. You have a unique channel and the personality that attracts.
Lol. I dont think I can do an entire build without a number of mistakes. It's kind of my thing.
Thank you for not assuming everyone has a shop with a table saw. That is a big investment in shop floor space, which sometimes comes with a significant investment in the house the shop is attached to.
I had no idea that I did that but I appreciate you noticing it. Thank you for commenting.
@@startmaking1 Hey, you show yourself working with a circular saw, which is much easier to have on hand for the average homeowner, as it doesn’t require much dedicated space.
@@jakelilevjen9766 very true.
+1 for the sharpening shelf. I'll steal that one.
Thank you very much. All yours. Still works great now.
Great looking storage
Not bad for mainly ply. Full now, need another . Maybe 2
I love your attitude. Mistakes are often edited out and downplayed, if not denied. The common view is that they're failures, when in fact they are the best lessons you are going to get if you have the attitude to learn from them. Thanks for promoting this, and I loved your final product.
You are so right. I have at least 10 lessons on every build. Impossible to hide even if I wanted too lol. Thank you. ,
I really like your videos. I love how you are so "happy go lucky" about it.... Building for your shop that is. No big deal, just "git'er done" It is a shop after all!
Thank you very much. I make so many mistakes that you just have to keep smiling lol.
Thoroughly enjoyed this video old chap. I fully agree with you, something in the workshop is not furniture and does not have to be 100% perfect. In my workshop I have the following motto: it must be:
1. as cheap as possible, using scraps of wood wherever possible and even if it means having to join boards and they are visible.
2. as quickly as possible.
3. If you want to criticize it, well then, you are welcome to build me a perfect one at your own time and expense.
Top draw - a super duper idea.
Paste wax - Floor wax will bake the drawers slide easier
maybe even shim the drawer with or the dados for a tighter fit - plastic will also work.
Have a blessed day.
Thank you so much. I love the motto. by the way. Brilliant. Shimming is a really good idea. So far wax is working but if I was to do it again plastic shims would be a good fix to my lack of accuracy.
I absolutely love that you don't just hide/mention your mistakes, you *highlight* them. As someone with RSD and struggles around not doing things "perfectly" the first time, seeing stuff like that helps ease that mindset some. Love the idea of making fully pull-out drawers as pseudo jig storage as well!
Thank you. I really cant make anything without making errors if I am honest. Perfect in my opinion can never exist for me. But it can for other people seeing what I have made. There are so many imperfections that they just wont / cant see. Though, that said, I understand that it is really hard not to keep telling yourself that it is not good enough. It is. Oh, and the jig storage actually happened this week. Not quite the same as draw less cabinets as the jigs were not all a uniform width but I am happy with it. I will have the video ready at some stage in August, fingers crossed. Thank you for commenting. Much appreciated.
Oh, and loved the sharpening station.
At first I was not 100% sure but now is has proved really handy.
It’s a lot cheaper than buying, a great beginner project ❤❤
Thank you. I plan to make a few more now I have a larger shop. These have held up really well.
Life saver. I was going to buy kitchen cupboards and shoehorn them to fit. But now....custom fit and styled. 😮😊 hell yeah
Cheap and easy too. Draw runners are expensive with this many draws and heavy too. This cost whatever one sheet of 12mm ply and half of 18mm comes to. Here is was around £100.
A useful addition to any shop. Nice work .
Thanks Mickey. Much appreciated.
Loved the video. As always, it's entertaining, practical and informative. One tip I would add for wooden drawer runners. Give them a good rub with a wax candle. I did this to sideboard drawer runners that I made about fifteen years ago and they have always ran super smooth. I've never needed to apply any more wax in all that time.
Thank you again James. Great tip, Since making I have added the wax as it seemed to be the most commented tip on this one and now I have to be careful not to yank the draws too strongly as they slide so well. Thank you
Oooh… that last surprise was a good one!
Thank you. It is one of the builds form the old shed that I still love.
The sharpening stone system is a great idea. Been thinking of a storage area like this. Thanks. Subscribed…
I am glad you like it. The proof is in the long term and I still use it so it has been a good addition.
Great build. Love the sharpening station not drawer.
Hi Bobby. Thank you very much. It has actually been very handy in just a month since building. Surprised myself haha.
LOVE that top “drawer” idea. Definitely stealing that! Cheers!
Thank you. I did have to go through the entire description and title to replace the work draw with drawer. What a wally. It is super handy though. Not sure what I will put there in the second one I make. Has to be something fun,
I enjoyed your video. It presented new ways to make storage. Enjoyable presentation. I will try in the near future. Thanks
Brilliant. I hope it goes well. Thank you for watching
I think I have watched this video at least 3 times in the past 3-4 months and that Sapele gets me every time. I absolutely love the way it looks! I’ve been trying find some near me.
I get the sapele delivered as the place also thicknesses it too which is a massive help when you dont have the tools. I love the look of it especially when you get an almost golden grain. If you are UK based it is called tools and timber that I get it from.
Love the sharpening station
Thank you
Love the sharpening “drawer.” Great job!
Hi Adam. Thank you very much. It is getting a lot of use.
DRAWER, not draw. That said, I love your work. It has inspired me to get more into woodworking. Thank you.
I cant believe that I didnt know the difference. And that it will forever be on YT to remind me lol. I am happy to hear that it has inspired you though as that is exactly my aim here. Thank you
A great project and well executed.
As for the drawer not drawer......up there for thinking-down there for dancing 😉👌🏻
Oh thank you. Every now and then I surprise myself. I thought initially it would be a gimmick but time and again I use it. Lucky
Great channel, content & solution. Mistakes were made but at the end of the day, they're your mistakes & are a reminder that you're human. Lastly, candle wax or paste wax will greatly reduce friction on the runners. Keep on making 🇺🇸!
Hi Tony. thank you for your lovely comment. I am seeing a common theme with the candle wax. Lucky I use it on the bottom of planes. It will be applied tomorrow. thank you
As it's a more budget friendly alternative, I do the same 👍. I don't know much, learning as I go as well. But what I do know, I like to pass along whenever possible. Take care! Keep up the content. You're more enjoyable than most on YT as you see to be more passionate (may be a little extreme with wording there, lol) about e everything you do! Which personally, I appreciate!
Tape the cutline will prevent all that tear out, and I cut my sides in half afterwards with the same results-- even slots on both sides.
Cut the length of handles After routing would be safer--all that said, I like the design, and especially how the draw fronts cover all by the rabbeted front to accept the drawer fronts, and the sharpening station--because my stuff currently IS where I am less likely to use.
Great advice thanks
Very good advice for the handles.
Your sharpening tray is a brilliant idea! I love the functionality!
Thank you so much. I surprised myself with this one to be honest.
Hey there..... remember that video you made about promoting smaller channels? Well I just stumbled across this young man here.... www.youtube.com/@GillisBjork If you are unaware of him then you are in for a treat! @@startmaking1
Great recommendation. He looks seriously talented just from a glance at his videos. Thank you.
new. worked in many small shops . 8x36 trailer for yacht repair. like your stuff
Thank you so much. I like a small shop, miss this shed.
Great build, simple, practical and no expensive drawer runners! My workshop is about the same size, and every work top has stuff with no home. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi David. People think that I am overselling this build in some regards., But for the cost and the flexibility, it is perfect. I had the same clutter issue and now, everything has its place. Well, until I buy more stuff. I very much plan to have at least 2 more of differing sizes in the new shop. Well worth checking out the original on the hooked on wood channel. His whole shop looks amazing and uses similar draws. His idea.
@@startmaking1 Hi Mark, thanks for the tip, I will check it out. Thanks for convincing me you don’t need drawer runners, it’s a workshop cabinet, a little candle wax works wonders if required. Have a nice day!
spot on.
Great video so far, can I just mention about your tear out. Yes shallow passes are helpful but a sacrificial board or a piece of insulation sheet to take the blades through makes the world of difference
That is superb advice. Thank you.
Great build! This style of drawer is exactly what I plan to do when I finish building my new garage. I love the sharpening station idea!
Hi Stephen. Thank you so much. I was pleasantly surprised by how well they work. Also you don't need to get the sides of the box exact as they never touch the sides of the cabinet or runners. Just the base. Much easier. Good luck with the new garage. Enjoy filling it with cool tools.
I absolutely love this video, and especially that top "drawer" I am 100% stealing that from you. Thank you for your wonderful work.
Hi James. Thats really kind. It's quite heavy to steal though, or do you just want to take the top drawer lol. Seriously though, thank you. I mentioned a couple of things I would do differently if I had another go at it. They are in the I was wrong video. One thing that I mention worth considering is whether it is worth rebating all the drawers or whether it is easier to cut pieces of ply to attach with spaces in the sides, thus creating a rebate without routing. Not that this way has any issues that I have found since the build, just routers are messy. Have a great weekend.
@@startmaking1 Thank you so much. I will go watch the "I was wrong" video as well. I did see some who were using extra ply as well, but, as you mentioned, it's already heavy, and as I do intend to make it part of a pack-out system (I'm an apartment woodworker, and need to bring my things to a nearby outside area to work) weight and stability are a constant balance. I look forward to watching your other video and learning from it. Thank you!!!!
I like the drawer bottom runner design. It eliminates quite a bit of measuring and fitting. I would prefer solid hard pine drawer fronts though. My old skin would suffer battle scars if I used plywood.
Wakodahatchee Chris
Hi Chris. Pine would certainly look nicer too.
LOVE the sharpening drawer - Great idea (I may just have to steal it.... ;). Seriously, I do need to create a small chest like yours to clear up my clutter and your clear instructions and example will be my guide - Thanks for sharing!
Hi Jim. thank you very much. I have used it a couple of times now and have to say that although it needs a little tweaking, it definitely makes sharpening much easier. Also the draws are so easy and forgiving. Don't need to worry too much about the draw sides being square as the base does all of the fit. Really easy. Good luck
love this, have been looking for just this style for storage. Your first cross cut of plywood....lay a strip of masking/painters etc tape and then cut you will eliminate a huge amount of ripout.
such good advice. Thank you
Tip... If your slider tolerances are very close, take a simple wax candle and rub the edges of the wood with that. It makes em slide really nice.
Thank you for the tip. Works a charm.
Really nice idea for the sharpening station!
thank you. It is still proving to be really handy.
Nice top drawer and great ideal!
I surprised myself with this one. Still going strong too. Another surprise.
Nice set of drawers. I need to rewatch this as I have soooo much ju- err, yet-to-find-a-use-for things that need storage. I probably want to integrate the drawers into a new workbench…. (He says, hoping Mark needs a new - preferably mobile - workbench for his new workshop and wants to make a video about its construction)
More storage means less tough decisions on what is necessary. you know, I actually am planning a new workbench with a built in table saw if I can decide which one. the only issue is I am definitely not an expert on benches. And making large things like that. but I really want a huge one, top the size of a sheet of ply, so it covers all bases.
Love that you show ur human and make mistakes 14:12
Hope ur still online
Hey bud. Thank you. I appreciate it.
This looks good, I might use this system for a little drawer setup I want to make.
its still holding strong over a year later.
Can't wait till you build one of these for me - adaptions for jewellery workshop of course! Perhaps with more plans.
Great video!
Definitely with more plans and a lot more care.
great idea for the sharpening shelf - I'm defo going to make one of those!😃
I did it on a whim but almost 2 years on and I still use it.
Your right-angle drive accessory looked interesting, nicely robust...
It's still going strong. Gets me out of lots of issues.
Great job! Exactly what I needed for all my misc. You got yourself another subscriber.
Brilliant. Welcome aboard Anthony. I need another set of these drawers. Maybe 2. So much clutter.
I am always looking for ways to maximise storage in my small workshop so this build is ideal. My work bench currently looks like yours at the start of the video.
I have gone full circle and have a work bench filled with treasure again so I will need more drawers.
A few improvements I would suggest is first make all the faces out of the same part of ply. The grain will all line up & look much better. Next the grain orientation with the grain vertical is the weakest possible. Some folk claim plywood has crossing grain & it doesn't matter. Try saying that after snapping a board like these in half with your bare hands as compared to running the grain horizontally. Last the problem with trying to support the drawer on edge grain of plywood is friction becomes a great pain. There are more than a few ways around this with either a metal or hardwood ledge. Love the Top drawer btw. Great idea.
Great suggestions. Thank you.
Thanks. This may be exactly what I need for a simple cabinet.
I am biased but 18 months later it is still really useful.
Love it! Very inspiring for my own workshop build one day
Hi Anthony. I genuinely love mine. Not just saying it for a video. Really handy.
Perfect timing. Just yesterday, I started work on a storage unit for the new workshop space (we've moved everything to a slightly larger space). I haven't got a complete design yet, but the plan is to have a taller unit with drawers on the left, with a tool wall next to it, ideally with a ledge at a good working height below the tool. I haven't decided whether to build the router table into the ledge. Great idea for the sharpening section. I'll probably steal that idea, and also use similar drawer runners to your design (inspired by Hooked on Wood).
congrats on the new space. I bet that is exciting. Very jealous. The draw runners work great and I am glad that Hooked on Wood made it so simple. The sharpening station is genuinely one that I am very proud of. Not seen it stored in this way. I like you idea of combining all parts together. From having a small router table, I have to say that space around it is key for me as I had no idea how much was needed and also the mess that it generated. If you can get it in considering these things then it is a great idea. Would love to see the progress as it happens.
@@startmaking1 Don't be jealous. It's a shared space (four of us leasing it) and not very big (just under 400 sq ft, but it's still larger than the 300 sq ft space we were leasing).
Good point about the router table. I have an idea I may try.
@@bhartissimo I hope to see it on a reel or video soon. If that is what you plan to do. Glad I have found your channel too.
@@startmaking1 I'll definitely post something on Instagram. I probably should shoot some video, edit it and post on TH-cam too.
@@bhartissimo instagram is so much less effort though isn't it. When I figure it out I may post a lot more there.
Nice idea greetings from Washington state.
Thank you very much and greetings to you.
Nice Project👍🏼 just a small thing… Pocket holes should not go outward towards the end of a board, but go from the outsider towards the middle (stronger) part of the board.
Great spot. I didn't even realise I had done it wrong. Thank you
Brilliant! I'll be making this soon 👍
Love mine . Good luck.
Just a small suggestion, when drilling you pocket holes the way your drill them (5:43) this present or provide less strength, due to that the screw has less material to grab, than if you do it the other way has more material and strength, and example is when building drawers with the jig, all your connecting holes are from outside to the inside direction. Hopefully I am clears as mud😂.
Thank you. You are spot on. I had no idea at the time. Thats what I love about the comment section , I learn so much with each video. Thankyou
Good to hear an English accent for a change!
Thank you Kathryn
I can appreciate your note about safety equipment when using the router table. In my opinion, the router is the most dangerous tool in the shop and I’ve had one too many close calls.
Mine is trying to injure me for sure. I had to sold a bit slipping issue this last week. Was not fun.
excellent work!! I was smiling most of the video! Although we both speak english, alot of what was said, I was having a hard time tracking - it must be me, though, due to the northern hemispheric english I swim in. Well done - keep it up! Hartley [garden grove, CA usa]
I find this sometimes. The same language can be very different. I appreciate the comment , thank you.
Hi, Mark. I love your workshop.
I have some ideas myself and... frequently I steal some of yours.
This storage unit is perfect.
Thank you very much.💚💛🇧🇷
Hi Maria. Thank you for commenting. Very kind. You are welcome to any idea you like. I am glad to have helped in any way. If you ever have an idea that you think I will like feel free to reach out.
Hi, Mark. Great idea and project.
A couple people suggested wax on the drawer edges and runners.
That is a very good idea, but go with the paraffin/candle wax.
Bee's wax is good for screws and bolts but will tend to soak into the
plywood, a bit, in your hot climate, and then not do it's job.
Paraffin/candle wax is harder and will not soak in, so easily, and
continue to work. Rub hard and get a good coating. 😁✌🖖
Hi Zapa1pnt. I am going to apply candle wax I think. I have some in the shed and I think it will do the trick. Thank you. I know I say it a lot but thank you for watching and more so for commenting. Means a lot.
Is right candles 🕯 are cheap that we used I my father shop
Great idea! Love the top drawer idea! Though use furniture or bee's wax in the drawer slides! And alas, expansion/contraction of the wood with temp & humidity changes, what works well in winter might stick in summer! And suggest screwing the front to the bottom & sides, since now the entire weight in the drawer is being pulled by the front, the glue bond alone may not be enough, else could rip off the front when trying to get the drawer out 😮. The nails may just pull out, since they are in the same direction as the force...
All good advice. Thank you. Wax is a great idea. I left the fronts as an experiment. So far none have come away but you are right.
Drawers are the way to go, or in my case small parts organisers from B&Q for about £3. Bought a couple of dozen of them for the same price as a piece of ply, made a rough frame out of scrap 2" x 1", used plaster metal edging strips to support the cases. Job done, and boy do they hold some stuff.
I also made an additional section to hold a number of green first aid boxes I had. These are bigger than the other cases but hold an incredible array of heavy stuff like grinding discs and nuts and bolts. Moral of the story, use what you have lying around and think outside the box before committing yourself. BTW a dymo label maker is incredibly useful for identifying the contents of these cases.
Hi Costa, These are my first proper draws in the shop. Absolute night and day difference to the amount I can store. Yours sound like a super cheap and effective way to go. I suspect that they are already more than full.
I thought about a labelling system. Thank you for the recommendation,
You are right about using what you have. The screws for instance came out of boxes that I have kept for lesser used stuff that can live in the cupboard. I sense that we are not all that dissimilar overall. Brilliant.
Try using hardwood for the drawer slides and use a product like slip it to make them run smooth
Great tip. Thank you
Love it awesome work
Thank you so much.
Good ideas, I'll make sure to poach some of them. Thank you for sharing! Building one's own storage is way more convenient and cheaper than buying it.
Couple of things though. Some have been already mentioned like tear out and "greasing" the runners. One can use paste wax, a candle or an old bar of Savon de Marseille (the older, the better) as furniture makers of old were doing. Pocket screws have a higher strength when angled away from the edge. More important, IMHO I'm not sure all the routing and setup is really worth it when I can have a pair of full extension ball bearing drawer slides with 100lb capacity for about $6 delivered to my door.
Thank you, you are welcome to them. And thank you for the advice. I wish that I could get even half decent runners for that price. Though I really do like the fact that the draws weigh so little.
I don’t have a hoarding problem, I have a storage problem
you and me both. I may need to make 7 or 8 of these.
I love the dado you put in the drawers to make sections!! I live in Japan and a Makita user like you. Makita is a Japanese brand but not so many Japanese do DIY. I am a female DIYer using the garage full of tools my dad left. I already made about 10 furniture since July and I was planning to make a tool cabinet to place in the half outdoor garage. Drawer slides would not work due to dust so I was wondering how to make it the old fashioned way. It looks more difficult and time consuming. I have the same Makita trimmer so I have to use it a lot more. Cheers!
Thank you. Drawer slides are really pricey too. And heavy. you could also just add in blocks of wood to the sides leaving a gap the size of the rebate if that is easier, more wood but less router work. I saw Wittworks do this recently.
I subbed. Nice build. It gave me plenty of ideas on making it but differently.
Thank you David
I've just discovered your channel mate and I'm already hooked. I love the simplicity of everything from the designs, your workspace, editing and presentation. It's exactly what's missing from the vast majority of woodworking channels that I've subscribed to. Right, thats enough typing from me, I've got more of your videos to watch 👍
That is very kind. thank you. I hope that in the future the builds will grow with the new workshop. But not to the extent of the larger channels. Somewhere in between. Thank you for coming along.
Great build
Thank you Jason.
VERY NICE
Thank you. Very much appreciated.
Loved it. If you haven't got too much stuff in your workshop then it's not a proper workshop😂
Hi John. So very true. I love my packed workshop.
nice simple drawer with runner design. Wax the runners and dados and they will slide much more easily.
Great advice on the Wax, and thank you
Bee's wax. coat the runners and guide slots with Bee's wax. makes the slide smoth and cuts down on wear and tear.
Seems that I am the last one to know this one. Great advice, and thank you
Well done. My only addition would be to rub some soap in the grooves to make the drawers slide a little easier.
Thank you and great idea.
Really great channel!!
Thank you so much. Very much appreciated.
The Missus thinks I collect junk 😂 "What do you need that for?" She says..
Good video🤙I thought I was the only 1 that made mistakes 🤣
Hi Shane. I told my wife this comment and she agrees with your missus. Oh well. Thank you for the kind comment. From now on all mistakes will be shown. I think it is more helpful than not.
If you will run bees wax in the slide slots the drawers will work even smoother.
Great idea. I applied candle wax and that did a good job too.
Brilliant, Mark! You should be proud. I like the sharpening station a great deal. It's probably too heavy for an old guy, like me, to take out and in. Geezer hint, use some candle wax on the runners. Just take one of your wife's scented candles and rub the bottom along the plywood. It's a durable, affordable and readily available lubricant and needs to be re-applied maybe once a year. Cheers. Also, thanks for transitioning from mils to inches during the explanation. Mind blown. Lastly, could you tell me how long the entire project took you to complete? Thanks.
hi. Thank you as always for a lovely comment. The sharpening station is a little hefty but Im sure you could swing it around. I did consider having it on runners under a workbench. That could work well. Candles seem to be the running theme and I will definitely apply some next time I am down the shed. The draws will probably shoot out after that. As far as the mm to inches, I have to be honest, I am very much confused by which one I use and seem to use a mixture of both, less than ideal. I do need to make sure that I get both in but also that I can keep up with which one I am measuring in. I kid you not, I am planning a very large build and half the measurements are in one and half on the other and I am converting. It is not ideal. As far as time, that is always hard to total as I am filming. Though, breaking it down into parts, I think that the carcass took around 3 hours, though the measuring and marking of the router lines could easily be reduced. More thought, less mistakes. The draws tool a while, around 5 hours. Though with a table saw and mitre saw this could easily be less. The trim was around 3 hours and then all of the handles and finishing probably another 3 hours. Then the video editing took around 25 hours as I am rubbish at it haha. I hope that this helps. Though I have no doubt a pro like you could knock this out better and faster, no joke.
@@startmaking1 Thank you for thinking I am a "professional." I guess since I get payed for what I do, I am. But I was a school of hard knocks apprentice and started out as builder more than a wood worker. That's why I enjoy your channel since I am watching you develop into a fine craftsman. And, you have some great ideas, e.g. the dadoed runners. My home shop is also a restricted space, so I am always looking for ways to maximize efficiency. Usually, that entails shuffling the shop around at least twice a year. Keep up the good work, and thanks again.
I melt/soak bees wax carefully into the wood grain, with a propane torch set low to not scorch the grain, into the sliding friction parts
Wow, thank you for the advice.
I love your validation to make mistakes, we all do. However I always feel extremely stupid when I do. I will stop being so hard on myself. Allow to fail and learn
I think it is human to feel silly when we make mistakes. It's how we move on from them I guess that counts. there isnt a woodworker in the world who doesnt make mistakes, just some dont show you them. Be kind to yourself as this is not just a job/hobby, for me anyway, it is relaxation and a form of therapy.
Great build!
It reminds me of a similar idea from Jer Schmidt here on TH-cam. His build is more intimidating though, as I feel his solution is perhaps a bit over engineered.
I am never one to over engineer. More likely to under engineer in truth. I will have to check out that channel though as it is not one I have encountered. Thank you
I like it dude
Thank you.
Making mistakes is a form of learning,,,,, I like this cabinet,,,, you have done well
I have a question though regarding the stones, do you have a problem with them from being wet and in a “drawer”?
So very true. As for the sharpening draw. No issues at all. I think it is because I give it a light wipe down after use and more importantly, thr drawer is far from well fitted so gets a fair bit of air flow
Used wax when you have wood sliders helps friction of wood
Thank you for the tip.
Back in the day wasn't hardware to install in drawers everything was made out wood
Very true.
Thank you, would it not be better to rip rather than cross cut ie with the grain?
Hi Kathryn. You are absolutely right. My planning as always let me down.
Hello, please could you provide a info about the pocket hole jig? it looks handy. thank you
Hi Ondrej. Firstly, thank you for watching and for reaching out with a comment. The pocket hole jig that I use is the Kreg jig.
Not cheap but makes pocket holes so much faster and cleaner than what I had before. Here is the model etc
Kreg KPHJ720PRO-21 - Kreg Pocket-Hole Jig 720PRO
I hope that helps. Happy for any questions.
@@startmaking1 Thank you for making these videos :) and thank you for advice...i will check it out.
@@ondrejpavelka2179 absolute pleasure. Great we can all learn together
Great idea, I have saved this.
Thank you.
Great Job, I make my Draw front same as you, more Professional Job!
They look nice I think.
I like it! I Don’t care that the timber ran out, haha. As long as it functions, who cares?!
So very true. And it is typical to my style of building to be honest. Kind of like a trademark lol
@@startmaking1 nothing wrong with that!
Well this was a nice addition to my weekend viewing take it this was the stuff u was fighting month or so ago?? Looks wicked though. Just a couple tips painters tape ontop the ply stop the tear out and bit beeswax on the runners make it slide bit easier. I'll catch up with u. 👍🏴👏 Ps this is deffo sommit am gonna have to look at building you've seen part my shop and it's full junk and you haven't even seen the half it!
Hey Bud. Thank you very much. Yes this was the wrestle that I told you about. Turned out ok but the video probably doesn't show how much stress each mistake made even if they were good to learn from and don't ruin the build. I kick myself for not grabbing the painters tape. I also think it is time to get a better blade for plywood. Maybe . You could easily build this. And you don't even need to rout the grooves could easily just screw batons for the draws to sit on. Up to you. As always I am happy to help if you need it. Although I doubt you need it.
@@startmaking1 yea if a remember right it's a higher tooth count blade for plywood but don't quote me on that. No the video doesn't send over the stress u went through with it. 🤣 U seem pretty calm in the video. A think when a do attempt it I'll end up using the table saw and just bump the fence wee bit each time to give me the grove cause we no how a feel about routers. I'll need send u shot my router and bits ave never used it and no idea what's what with them. Am certainly gonna need to build it for storage I have boxes and shelves of junk!! and yea I'll shout when a come to doing it
Wow, I built a few like this many years ago...Mine came out a bunch better though ;)
Suggest moving back of drawer in about 3 " from the ends of the sides and drawer bottom to allow for 'full extension' with out risk of the drawer falling out, use much tighter tolerances, 1/4" oil hardened or tempered Masonite for the drawer bottoms, and bee's wax or candle wax as suggested for sliding surfaces. You went to an awful lot of trouble for anything titled "make easy", imo.
I made the drawer tops flat (flush sides to back)and sized to be a very thin hair below flush with the bottom of the groove for the drawer above it. If done right, the drawers are almost air tight with no opportunity to wiggle and flop around as they slide. Glue and screw the bottom to the drawer sides and back. Make them tight - You can always sand and trim, but no one wants a fit any looser than necessary.
You can cut the Masonite over sized and trim it after the drawers are assembled with router or table saw.
Hi Jerry. Thank you for commenting. And congratulations on your draws, they sound stunning. I think to be honest, we were aiming at very different finishes. I may not have gotten it across in the video, my fault, but what makes these so easy is that you don't worry about the sides of the drawers being snug with the carcass. Just fit the base and take it easy because it is shop furniture. I could never aim it at beginners and say this is.how you get everything practically air tight. It's not attainable for a lot of people, me included. Though, I have to say, well done, yours do truly sound perfect. Thank you for sharing.
wouldn't Masonite bottoms wear more than plywood,from sliding the drawers in and out? OTOH,maybe some of that UHDPE tape on the cabinet groove bottom might alleviate that wear.
Great work. Love the sharpening station. Mine is currently stuck to a chopping board which hangs of the wall. Did you ever think about putting in some kind of drawer stops?
Yes, I really should have done. But I was obsessed with making the drawers removable so you could swap them around and move the more popular stuff to the top . I also wanted to build more units that fitted the same draws. In 6 months, I have yet to swap a drawer and doubt I ever will. Should have put stops in.
@@startmaking1 Rob Cosman did a video on draw stops. He did a nice one which pushes up when you put in the drawer, then drops down again to stop the drawer opening too far. If you want to remove the drawer, you just need to push the stop up with your hand. But as you've mentioned, this wouldn't work with the different sizes 🙂
Ah yes, I think I saw that a while ago, He is about the best.
Nice
Thanks
The routing would have been less sketchy on the handles if you had the insert plate in place.
Hi Tektrixter. I have just rewatched that section after reading this. Oh my, you are so right. I didn't fit the one that I have. What a silly error. Thank you. Also I am going to add some adjustable boards on the fence to shorten the gap around the bit. The handles were very sketchy, so whatever I can do will make me feel better for the next time. Always learning. Thank you
Mark. Good video. I'm going to guess you're a tech guy who knows how to make videos do well rather than a time served woodworker. Not a problem, sharing is great, wether right or wrong. Jamie
Hi Jamie. Thank you. Absolutely no idea about tech. Literally my biggest weakness. Just determined to give it my beat shot. Woodworking, I am learning. End of the day this is a channel to hopefully show people that they can do more than they think they can. Something like that anyway. I've always said I am no expert. Not teaching.
another job well mate ;)
Hi Robert. Thank you. Very kind.
put some painters tape on the cut line to minimize tearout
Yeah, I still kick myself for my laziness on this build. Didn't think it would look as nice as it does and so I didn't worry about tear out enough. Silly.
I just found your videos yesterday and they are very informative, just a quick question roughly how big is your workshop?
Hi . Thank you. Not very big. 10.ft by 8 ft.
Can I give you a little advice?
- Make the drawer fronts out of the same piece of ply and number them. That way the grains will all match at least at the front face instead of them all being random. I'd only have random fronts if it was all out of scrap, not from a nice new piece of ply.
- When cutting the sides, instead of having the grain go upwards have it running longways. You'll find over time it will it won't tend to warp.
- If you rebated the fronts of the drawers (and bottom), you can drive nails in at the sides (instead of the front) hiding the nails and making it look much better.
While it's nice to have full depth of drawers, adding a little waste at the end for when you pull the drawer out lets the drawer hang there without falling - maybe about 70-100mm depending on how heavy the contents of the drawers will be.
You can always give me advice. It is the way I learn the most. I wrote this before reading the rest of the comment.
The face advice is brilliant. The reason I didn't do it apart from not knowing is because I planned to move the draws around. Up to date, they have not moved, I should have done them like you said.
The grain sideways is really intriguing. I figured as ply it was equally stable both ways. But now I think about it, it must have more grain running the way the faces do as they match. Nice advice again.
I definitely should have left room because the screw draw particularly is one that I am moments away from dropping and it is the one that I dont want to.
What a great comment. I learnt a lot and you made it so easy to understand. Thankyou
@@startmaking1 No worries. I had the advantage of having a father who was a carpenter for 50 years that instilled a lot of general knowledge on how to build things. You tend to pick a lot of info up over the years that you don't even remember but pops out on occasions. I was building stuff in his workshop from about the age of 5 or 6. I was building cupboards at 10 LOL. My sister still has one of them and I'm 50 now. Guess it makes it vintage now 😂🤣
In theory you'd be correct about ply in that they sandwich opposing grains. In reality it just tends to warp more with the grain running across it. Cut a few strips, lay them down and leave them for a few days and see what I mean. It's not always the case but you tend to find it more from big box stores as they sell the cheapest crap they can. Its just good practice, same as masking ply when cutting across the grain.
Oh wow, you were/asre very lucky to have had such input at a young age. And the fact that some of the things you made are still around is incredible.
@@startmaking1 Well if you're going to build something, try and build it right the first time. Doesn't always happen, but we try. I built an electronics parts cabinet out of scrap MDF until I had time to build a proper one. It's still here 25 years later LOL. Not the best thing I've ever made, but functional.
I fear that my new workshop will end up being clad in the same, scrap wood cleats that I made in the last shed. I was supposed to throw them out and make a fresh batch but that seems not to be in my nature. Oh well.