I agree with "just add more layers of drywall". If you have the space the cheapest is just add layers. The only thing you should ever put between layers of drywall is a product like Green Glue. Do not use construction adhesive, mastic, carpet glue, or silicon sealer. It will reduce the effectiveness at lower frequencies. Adding Green Glue and a layer of 5/8 drywall or adding a layer of 530 Quietrock will give you almost identical results at 50 Hz and 125 Hz. The single number STC is within a dB of each other. It is difficult to compare different wall assemblies without a testing lab. You rarely find complete octave data on matching assemblies with single variable changes between them. GreenGlue and Quietrock both are based on a viscoelastic compound to dampen the mass. Both have throughly tested in known labs. It is easier to specify Quietrock, as long as the get the seal between panels, floor, ceiling and any hole for electrical and plumbing sealed airtight it preforms well. We use it all the time in classroom, offices, hospitals, and labs. In studios, soundstages, and theater, I prefer to have the overlaping layers of drywall and tend to prefer to use Green glue. The application is more difficult but in critical low noise areas all assemblies are difficult. Green Glue a strange name since it is not a glue. and should never dry. Acoustic chalking should also never dry or harden. That is why it is used. Then there is mass loaded vinyl. It has it's place but in a wall assembly is not one them. MLV in a wall has a single number STC 7 dB worse than Green Glue or Quietrock. MLV is 12 dB worse than either of them at 50 Hz. You would be better off with two layer of drywall at 50Hz than drywall with MLV. Notice very few places selling MLV have any data for MLV in wall assemblies. The main use for MLV is wrapping ductwork and metal panels.
I uses beaded foam in bathroom walls in a 130 year old house and afterwards it was near impossible to talk to anyone outside the room with the door closed. The door was a solid hardwood and its surprising how it deadened sound, too. The beaded foam was from a roof tear off at a commercial site. The super had no qualms allowing me to truck out several trailer loads because it was destined for the landfill.
What insulation do you recommend for in-wall speakers? Want to fill the wall so I don't get too much resonance on the adjacent wall, I also want to minimise vibrations. Thinking of deadening the inside of the wall with some dynamat, but wanting to know what else would help. By the way, it's a fully furbished house, so it's not in the building process or anything like that. I have boxes of acoustic foam given to me for free, but I'm not sure if that will help in this scenario. Thanks in advance!
I use silicone. Half a tube per sheet. Blobs 6 inches apart. Use small squares of soft foam as a spacer. I use 2mm laminate flooring foam. Use screws on the foam locations until the silicone has set, then remove screws. Now you have a 2mm gap between the studs and sheet, with soft foam and soft silicone in between. Far better than any "solution" so far
Yes, this is good advice. Details matter in the installation of any product, so filling every gap is Paramount to a success .Double non connected walls with two layers of 5/8 is about the only way to meaningful reduce bass transfer. Great video , I will show this to my clients who ask me to use many products thinking it is a magic pill solution. Mtl, Can. 👍
Damn so i have a werid situation i already put two sheets on drywall on the inside wall but on the outside im redoing the siding and was thinking of putting mass loaded vinyl on top of the studs and have the tyveks going over it then put the siding on. Not sure if that could cause water issues
Yes. I recently applied MLV to my exisiting drywall before securing 5/8" drywall sheets over MLV. I used a professional hammer tacker (Home Depot) using 1/2" stapes. I used this when working for an insulation company to tack reinforced plastic across new construction studs prior to cellulose blowing. Just bang the staples all over the MLV to secure to existing drywall! MLV IS kinda heavy if using a 4 ' x 8' sheet so I would recommend a second set of hands. Hope this works for you.
I’ve watched a lot of your videos with referencing the caulking (which is currently a problem for me), and I’m curious why you mention silicone caulking specifically? I’ve seen some suggestion that around doors, elastomeric acrylic-urethane mixes or latex mixes might be better. They seem to cost the same in stores, and I’ve worked with but he before (but not for sound). Any reason to prefer one over the other? Great video!
I did MLV, green glue, 2 layers of 5/8" , rocwool, putty pads and my drums still pierce through extensively, . I know it's better overall but didn't cut it as much as I wanted. I may have not put enough green glue.
Good insight into a subject that seems to have more than its fair share of nonsense talked about it. As you rightly point out, there is no substitute for density for controlling sound. We hear so much said about using insulation in stud walls and ceilings to control sound but the reality is it may enhance sound control but not much else. Having said that, there are many types of insulation and some of the denser ones do more than others. There are a lot of specialist products and systems such as staggered framing, resilient mounts, acoustic sealants etc. etc. out there and anyone considering embarking on a project would do well to thoroughly research the various systems as designed and distributed by the various manufacturers.
I like your value approach. GG has gone WAY up in price and won’t work as well as an additional layer of drywall. I bought a bunch of GG on clearance at HD for 75% off when they changed to a Soprema product (in Canada). I’ll be using it because it was super cheap, and I already have it. But I will also be tripling my drywall in critical areas.
Every time you talk about sound deadening versus sound proofing versus sound treatment, it may help to remind your viewers what these terms mean. Which term(s) is/are related to reducing sounds generated somewhere outside the room coming into the room, versus which term(s) is/are related to reducing the echoes of sounds that might be generated from inside the room.
Would smearing silicone sealant all over about 1-2mm thick between the layers of plaster boards help with sound? Or does the mass of two boards negate What's between them?
@@andyking05 I believe the “magic” of Green Glue is that it cures into a highly flexible goo that allows the two boards to move relative to each other, and the resulting shearing of the GG is what deadens the sound. Regular sealants will cure relatively stiff, especially when compressed very thin between panels that are screwed together. I believe this will have more of a bonding effect making the sheets act more like a single thicker mass. I don’t know which is more effective, but I’d bet it would take careful measurements to tell the difference.
If you want something that is not stiff I recommend trying a product called "big stretch" it's paintable and used as a replacement for silicone on exterior penitrations. It's selling feature is how much it is able to stretch while keeping water tightness and allowing things to move.
Thanks for the updates and insights!
I agree with "just add more layers of drywall". If you have the space the cheapest is just add layers. The only thing you should ever put between layers of drywall is a product like Green Glue. Do not use construction adhesive, mastic, carpet glue, or silicon sealer. It will reduce the effectiveness at lower frequencies. Adding Green Glue and a layer of 5/8 drywall or adding a layer of 530 Quietrock will give you almost identical results at 50 Hz and 125 Hz. The single number STC is within a dB of each other. It is difficult to compare different wall assemblies without a testing lab. You rarely find complete octave data on matching assemblies with single variable changes between them. GreenGlue and Quietrock both are based on a viscoelastic compound to dampen the mass. Both have throughly tested in known labs.
It is easier to specify Quietrock, as long as the get the seal between panels, floor, ceiling and any hole for electrical and plumbing sealed airtight it preforms well. We use it all the time in classroom, offices, hospitals, and labs. In studios, soundstages, and theater, I prefer to have the overlaping layers of drywall and tend to prefer to use Green glue. The application is more difficult but in critical low noise areas all assemblies are difficult. Green Glue a strange name since it is not a glue. and should never dry. Acoustic chalking should also never dry or harden. That is why it is used. Then there is mass loaded vinyl. It has it's place but in a wall assembly is not one them. MLV in a wall has a single number STC 7 dB worse than Green Glue or Quietrock. MLV is 12 dB worse than either of them at 50 Hz. You would be better off with two layer of drywall at 50Hz than drywall with MLV. Notice very few places selling MLV have any data for MLV in wall assemblies. The main use for MLV is wrapping ductwork and metal panels.
I uses beaded foam in bathroom walls in a 130 year old house and afterwards it was near impossible to talk to anyone outside the room with the door closed. The door was a solid hardwood and its surprising how it deadened sound, too. The beaded foam was from a roof tear off at a commercial site. The super had no qualms allowing me to truck out several trailer loads because it was destined for the landfill.
What insulation do you recommend for in-wall speakers?
Want to fill the wall so I don't get too much resonance on the adjacent wall, I also want to minimise vibrations.
Thinking of deadening the inside of the wall with some dynamat, but wanting to know what else would help.
By the way, it's a fully furbished house, so it's not in the building process or anything like that. I have boxes of acoustic foam given to me for free, but I'm not sure if that will help in this scenario.
Thanks in advance!
I use silicone. Half a tube per sheet. Blobs 6 inches apart. Use small squares of soft foam as a spacer. I use 2mm laminate flooring foam. Use screws on the foam locations until the silicone has set, then remove screws. Now you have a 2mm gap between the studs and sheet, with soft foam and soft silicone in between. Far better than any "solution" so far
Interesting. Thanks for sharing!
Are you sanding two half-inch pieces of sheet rock or are you using two pieces of 5/8 sheet rock?
Yes, this is good advice. Details matter in the installation of any product, so filling every gap is Paramount to a success .Double non connected walls with two layers of 5/8 is about the only way to meaningful reduce bass transfer. Great video , I will show this to my clients who ask me to use many products thinking it is a magic pill solution. Mtl, Can. 👍
Thanks for watching!
Damn so i have a werid situation i already put two sheets on drywall on the inside wall but on the outside im redoing the siding and was thinking of putting mass loaded vinyl on top of the studs and have the tyveks going over it then put the siding on. Not sure if that could cause water issues
Is there a way to use MLV between two drywall panels? If yes, how do you secure MLV to the drywall?
Yes. I recently applied MLV to my exisiting drywall before securing 5/8" drywall sheets over MLV. I used a professional hammer tacker (Home Depot) using 1/2" stapes. I used this when working for an insulation company to tack reinforced plastic across new construction studs prior to cellulose blowing. Just bang the staples all over the MLV to secure to existing drywall! MLV IS kinda heavy if using a 4 ' x 8' sheet so I would recommend a second set of hands. Hope this works for you.
I’ve watched a lot of your videos with referencing the caulking (which is currently a problem for me), and I’m curious why you mention silicone caulking specifically? I’ve seen some suggestion that around doors, elastomeric acrylic-urethane mixes or latex mixes might be better. They seem to cost the same in stores, and I’ve worked with but he before (but not for sound). Any reason to prefer one over the other? Great video!
what is your take on big stretch or extreme stretch instead? super elastic!
I did MLV, green glue, 2 layers of 5/8" , rocwool, putty pads and my drums still pierce through extensively, . I know it's better overall but didn't cut it as much as I wanted. I may have not put enough green glue.
Good insight into a subject that seems to have more than its fair share of nonsense talked about it. As you rightly point out, there is no substitute for density for controlling sound. We hear so much said about using insulation in stud walls and ceilings to control sound but the reality is it may enhance sound control but not much else. Having said that, there are many types of insulation and some of the denser ones do more than others. There are a lot of specialist products and systems such as staggered framing, resilient mounts, acoustic sealants etc. etc. out there and anyone considering embarking on a project would do well to thoroughly research the various systems as designed and distributed by the various manufacturers.
What about cork sheets?
I like your value approach. GG has gone WAY up in price and won’t work as well as an additional layer of drywall.
I bought a bunch of GG on clearance at HD for 75% off when they changed to a Soprema product (in Canada). I’ll be using it because it was super cheap, and I already have it. But I will also be tripling my drywall in critical areas.
Awesome you got it for cheap! Best of luck!
Every time you talk about sound deadening versus sound proofing versus sound treatment, it may help to remind your viewers what these terms mean.
Which term(s) is/are related to reducing sounds generated somewhere outside the room coming into the room, versus which term(s) is/are related to reducing the echoes of sounds that might be generated from inside the room.
Great point. I sometimes forget to
Mention that it all has to do with “noise reduction”
Thanks
Plaster walls 🧱 ♥️ are best 👌
What about using regular silicone bathroom sealant?
You definitely could!
Anything that seals an air gap and does not dry out and crack will work. Be careful though, most silicone sealants cannot be painted.
Would smearing silicone sealant all over about 1-2mm thick between the layers of plaster boards help with sound? Or does the mass of two boards negate What's between them?
@@andyking05 I believe the “magic” of Green Glue is that it cures into a highly flexible goo that allows the two boards to move relative to each other, and the resulting shearing of the GG is what deadens the sound.
Regular sealants will cure relatively stiff, especially when compressed very thin between panels that are screwed together. I believe this will have more of a bonding effect making the sheets act more like a single thicker mass.
I don’t know which is more effective, but I’d bet it would take careful measurements to tell the difference.
If you want something that is not stiff I recommend trying a product called "big stretch" it's paintable and used as a replacement for silicone on exterior penitrations. It's selling feature is how much it is able to stretch while keeping water tightness and allowing things to move.
I have found car sound deadener works really good
Awesome!! Which one is it??
Disagree on GG. I bought pails for less $ per sq ft. Quietrock ...not cheaper. Have you seen how much drywall becomes scraps?
I think from experiments greenglue worked better than mlv
I’d like to see that data!
@@soundproofguide Just search for Green Glue test data. I believe Orfeild Labs did the testing when it was being developed about 20 years ago.
What about carpet underlayment on the wall? Does other work on walls as well as floors?
Not really no. The underpayment is more to absorb the footstep noise. It doesn’t work well at blocking sound waves.
@@soundproofguide thank you 🙏