Only video I've seen removing the filler neck which is another job on my list. Trying to persuade components that are well settled in after 30 years to exit is not easy. Only problem is people cannot see and appreciate how clean your filler neck and vapour tank is. Just a great video.
Im not big expert, but from other guys what i have seen,that after you put this rust preperat and it react and get purple, you needwait when it get almost dry and again sand itand put on one more time this preperat until itnot show anymore purplecolor. What i mean with that, is the rust poors is still thereand in time it will keep rusting.
I think there are quite a few different rust converter products with different procedures. I am not saying this way is the best, but the rust has not come back at all on this filler neck so far. 😁 Lets hope that continues
Great video. I need to remove my expansion tank and replace lines and this is the only video showing removal of the filler neck. Do you think its possible to remove the filler neck without dropping the fuel tank?
Cheers Vin. its definitely possible to remove the filler neck without removing the fuel tank. The two are connected with a chunky curved hose. You'll need to drain the tank of fuel first though or it'll all pour out. There's a drain plug on the fuel tank to do that. Hope that helps mate
@@SPANNERRASH thanks man. I actually didnt even end up removing it. My system has been pressurized because the previous owner capped the vent line at the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The whole vent line was filled with fuel, which doesnt make sense so i figured it was acting as a siphon or my filler neck was diverting fuel into my expansion tank somehow. Before removing anything at the passenger rear wheel, i checked all lines and compared to schematics. I found that my vent line and fuel rail return lines hook ups were swapped at the end of the hard lines by the fuel filter. The car has 300,000 miles and the fuel tank is in great condition, so i figured when he replaced it, he just messed up the hook up orientation. Lines are correct now and threw in a new fuel filter as well. Runs much better.
@@vind3204 Ahh I've heared about this before, it must be a common mistake to make! Glad it turned out to be something as simple as switching the lines over for you. I'll have to be mindful of that when it comes to refitting the fuel tank on mine.
@@SPANNERRASH absolutely. Gathering multiple schematics and deciphering early vs late model fuel systems was the biggest help for me. My e30 is a 1988 Super eta with late model internals/tail lights, but early model bumpers (differences ive found so far). So when it comes to finding schematics and diagrams, my best bet is to just analyze what exists compare it to what i find and take it from there.
Hi Dean, its one of these: ebay.us/WPNreN It's a pretty powerful tool with a chuck that lets you use drill size wire brush attachments. I use it a lot actually. 👍
Only video I've seen removing the filler neck which is another job on my list. Trying to persuade components that are well settled in after 30 years to exit is not easy. Only problem is people cannot see and appreciate how clean your filler neck and vapour tank is. Just a great video.
Thanks John! :D Hope the vid helps point you in the right direction with your own e30 fuel filler neck. Hopefully, yours is serviceable too.
@@SPANNERRASH Well, I'm hoping to deal with it without removing. If not, your video is very clear with excellent camera angles to do the job. Thanks.
Love this series, please keep it going!
Thanks! I'll do my best to keep on truckin' with it 😉
Looks great
Cheers Eric!
Great video lad, good work 👍🏼
Cheers mate!
After applying the epoxy layer, do I have to sand it before applying the final paint and what is the sanding ratio? Thank you.
After the epoxy primer has fully cured I would recommend sanding to 800 grit smooth before colour and clear goes on.
Great work dude
Cheers Jason!
Im not big expert, but from other guys what i have seen,that after you put this rust preperat and it react and get purple, you needwait when it get almost dry and again sand itand put on one more time this preperat until itnot show anymore purplecolor. What i mean with that, is the rust poors is still thereand in time it will keep rusting.
I think there are quite a few different rust converter products with different procedures. I am not saying this way is the best, but the rust has not come back at all on this filler neck so far. 😁 Lets hope that continues
Great video. I need to remove my expansion tank and replace lines and this is the only video showing removal of the filler neck. Do you think its possible to remove the filler neck without dropping the fuel tank?
Cheers Vin. its definitely possible to remove the filler neck without removing the fuel tank. The two are connected with a chunky curved hose. You'll need to drain the tank of fuel first though or it'll all pour out. There's a drain plug on the fuel tank to do that. Hope that helps mate
@@SPANNERRASH thanks man. I actually didnt even end up removing it. My system has been pressurized because the previous owner capped the vent line at the charcoal canister in the engine bay. The whole vent line was filled with fuel, which doesnt make sense so i figured it was acting as a siphon or my filler neck was diverting fuel into my expansion tank somehow. Before removing anything at the passenger rear wheel, i checked all lines and compared to schematics. I found that my vent line and fuel rail return lines hook ups were swapped at the end of the hard lines by the fuel filter. The car has 300,000 miles and the fuel tank is in great condition, so i figured when he replaced it, he just messed up the hook up orientation. Lines are correct now and threw in a new fuel filter as well. Runs much better.
@@vind3204 Ahh I've heared about this before, it must be a common mistake to make! Glad it turned out to be something as simple as switching the lines over for you. I'll have to be mindful of that when it comes to refitting the fuel tank on mine.
@@SPANNERRASH absolutely. Gathering multiple schematics and deciphering early vs late model fuel systems was the biggest help for me. My e30 is a 1988 Super eta with late model internals/tail lights, but early model bumpers (differences ive found so far). So when it comes to finding schematics and diagrams, my best bet is to just analyze what exists compare it to what i find and take it from there.
Hi, where did you get that rotary tool?.
Hi Dean, its one of these: ebay.us/WPNreN
It's a pretty powerful tool with a chuck that lets you use drill size wire brush attachments. I use it a lot actually. 👍
@@SPANNERRASH perfect thanks man. Need one of these for cutting a awkward bit out my e30.
@@deanrobertson8358 No worries mate, hope it works out well.