One option for stabilizing the front binding posts would be to take a peice of non-clad pcb that is large enough to cover the 3 openings and drill 3 binding post holes in it. Stick the posts in and place the pcb on the back side, spin on the lock nuts and done deal. If you were concerned you could hot glue it in place.
We use the at work for our low current tests, the only difference is ours is the model that goes to 100 volts. These things run 24/7 everyday and I have never seen one break. Pretty good quality
Fill the holes with Epoxy glue (24 Hour type) mixed with cut up FG about 3mm long. Then drill for posts. This worked well with mine. Good mod on the sense wires that is my next fix. Thanks Dave Thumbs Up!
Just got my hands on one of these, an older model actually, HP branded 6632A manufactured 1986. It still has the on board connectors for the front panel though. And looking forward to adding front panel binding posts using your video as a guide. Thanks Dave! By the way that things weighs a freaking ton, seriously it is like 40 Lbs.
to keylock the connectors, you would have to drill through the mounting surface into the flat backside of the connector and fit a pin. to make it rocksolid, use at least 2 opposed pins to handle the force symmetrically and fill the cutouts to have a plain mounting surface for the same reason.
A quick way to do a flat edge keyed hole when you don't have the tools to easily make such a hole is to drill (in your case, 3) round holes in a piece of PC board, metal, plastic, or whatever you're using. dremel or saw the board so the holes are partially cut through, at the point where you want the flat, then flip the cut piece around, bringing the flat edge against the hole. Secure the two PCB segments and you have a hole with a flat!
I have an HP-branded 6624A that I plan to mod in a similar way but with arduino-controlled relays to switch the output and sense terminals back to the rear panel if needed.
There's plenty of room on the front panel for another pair of binding posts or banana jacks for some remote sense connections at which point you could bring the sense lines all the way to your load...
For those front three jacks, I would order a small rectangular 3mm thick aluminum panel from a place like "Front Panel Express". A rectangular panel with screw holes in each of the corners, and the three binding post holes properly keyed to the shape of those Jaycar posts. They can also silkscreen the labels GND, POWER and EARTH or engrave them. They are always fun to receive orders from.
The mounting holes where the binding posts were installed might be for a metal plate. The metal plate could be machined (or drilled out carefully with a Dremel tool) to properly mount your binding post form.
Why not drill three holes in a bare (copperless) piece of pcb material and use that as a washer behind the binding posts, then you have something firm to tighten them against and they will sit straight. Also, you do not have to mess around with epoxy.
Maria Engström The connectors are still not key locked in place, so they can still spin. Because the flat part would not extend far enough into the PCB to prevent turning.
I would have liked to see the inside after mounting the posts. Agreed that some type of non-metallic pcb or phenolic behind the posts would have been best. Or commonly available non-metallic washers (fiber or nylon). The spinning issue after mounting won't be much of an issue as Dave will almost always be using banana or alligator clips. My $0.02
Great video I did the same mod few months ago in my, my is a different version hp 6632a and it has a connector for the remote sense wire Also in the diagram there is a mention of a board that got relay to switch sense and load output
That's pretty cool. Did bring up kind of interesting thought though. When they designed that they probably could have made a thing for simple selection of the since. A 3 pin jumper setup would do center to the circuitry, one on each side for front and rear sense. Then they could still mass produce the boards, and if it's a front panel model just change the jumpers. They could even probably play off that and make an after-market front panel with posts, a switch, etc in it. Then the switch could just link onto the jumper headers.
Those X2 caps look a lot like the ones used in the BBC Micro that go pop after 30 years (also used in the IBM 5150). I would recommend checking the heath of them or just replacing them, they go with a pop cracel, hiss and lots of smoke.
You can wire the sense wire to both terminals - don't need a switch. Even better, put a resistor (100 ohms?) in series with the sense wire near the output, and bring out its other terminal to another binding post for remote sensing.
Nice! Why not put 2 extra binding posts at the front for the sense terminals so you can have remote sense to compensate for the external wires when you need to, and you can link them to the + and - with those binding post links when you're not bothered about the drop?
Nice job modding this power supply but if I were you I would add 2 more posts and connect them to the sense wires. This way you could connect them into the circuit you are testing directly to get the best possible precision. And you could use 2 pieces of metal plate to make jumpers right on the posts for "internal" sensing.
IMO it's a decent approach to install these sense wires. I'm glad you didn't leave that front output without sense wires connected. I like a decent approach to electronics where it may make a difference. :)
I did this mod myself on a different version (6632B) My one actually had a terminal block at the output to bring inside to the front panel thankfully. the mod worked well only annoying thing is i think the PSU is out of cal, however it equally could be my (newer) UNI-T Multimeter.
Ah, I've been trying to figure the pinout of the four terminal resistor in a 66311B I bought as a fixer upper. The service manual says to use A1 R431-[pin]4 as the common for bias measurements.
hey man, nice hack job. There's a surprising amount of loss across the flood-filled pcb, and those banana connectors are also pretty flimsy judging from the losses they cause, but overall it's a nice little fix. I'm really surprised that this front-panel binding post option was not so common. The engineers that designed this thing clearly anticipated it by getting the front panel cut out, having all the necessary stuff on the PCB and a selectable switch on the back for voltage sensing that could easily be used to select front/back sensing like Dave hacked it into in this video. I bet this is a classic case where the upper management and the engineers did not communicate clearly enough on what the exact purpose of the device is, and the device ended up somewhere halfway what the engineers wanted and what management wanted. Either that, or a lot of these chasis parts and PCB are just reused from other models and they simply deemed it sufficient to cover the holes in the front panel with the sticker.
interessting design idea for the DMM: Make the Voltage probe line sepperate, so the resistance of the current line wont drop it. could be done by the manufacturer.
This makes me wonder why they don't just use spade terminals at the point of regulation, rather than trying to snake large traces across the PCB in two directions? The difference between the front and rear options could be as simple as a couple jumper wires, and the requisite chassis-mount terminals. Just cost reduction maybe?
I think some Dual Banana Panel posts would fit right there in the front. I found some on FleaBay for like $5 shipped. Failing that, maybe some 3D printed parts would solve your issue with slippage.
EEVblog aww come on dave, you said you have another one to do, you could have made a nice couple of vids making a decent part, this mod is pretty amateurish to be fair, to see you making up the part on the 3d to finishing it up, would have been good to see
EEVblog I thought the whole point of having a little 3D printer at home is to dick around for hours to make weird shaped lumps of plastic for odd little jobs. If you don't do that, what do you do with it? :D
ide probably fine a nice neat bit of 1/2 inch wide white plastic and cut it so you can mount the 3 posts over it and put a piece on the front cover under the posts and at the back. You could then drill the front under size so the key on the posts firs in tight and stops them from spinning. It would look reasonable, no worse then half the Chinese designs beating around
Is it possible to check LM2672 semiconductor components in a circuit? Dave, i would like to see more repair videos especially Apple tft monitors. Keep up the good work!!!
Lovely mod. I would make a four terminal front (plus, minus, sense+ and sense-) and then a piece of metal bridge installed as default. I wonder, why this isn´t part of the original option.
I think that the oval nature of the existing front panel cutouts was to allow for two sets of black, red and green posts mounted left/right of each other. Was the vertical spacing the standard 3/4" (is there a metric equivalent)?
Hi Dave,great video! as aways ;) Every time i watch your vids i learn something new. I was a bit surprised by the way you poked those holes Ô.o Nice hack anyway .
Could you not just use a beefy gauge wire going from the back end connector to the binding posts on the front end? That way the sense line is still in play. Genuinely unsure, just a thought I had. Guess I should have watched the whole video before posting... lol. Literally 20 seconds from where I paused the video to post he hooked up the remote sense wire.
EEVblog What I meant was take the connections from the back end to the front and skip adding all the extra components to the PCB itself. Would wiring from the back panel terminal block to the binding posts on the front not provide the same functionality?
Hi Dave! Can you please install a mode switch in this type of power supply? (dip switch perhaps) I'm considering buying one and I wonder if I could have more voltage with mod switch. Thank you and keep up your great work!
Nelson Fernandes You can just get the similar 6654A it goes up to 60V. A reputable eBay seller that I know that has a used one in stock right now is frmoh_eng_con. Hope that helps!!
Dave...I really want to try modelling a 3d printed insert...but I can't find any drawings anywhere online regarding the size of the holes in the front panel. Is it possible to get a grid/transparency overlaid in a photo of the inside for scale? It would really strengthen that panel immensely.
I know this is an old video, but someone on thingiverse made a like for like STL file you can just download (search for HP Binding Post Adapter) and make this mod look much cleaner.
Dave seems to be short on time while doing this mod, just because he could do it much better, and i know that he´s indeed able to do so....Sometimes it´s just like this. You know a better way, but you simply have no time to spare for it..... It´s just the same with my last project, as i rewound a torodial core, i used the wrong diameter of one coil, and ended up with a too low voltage, but instead of another rewind i simply used a voltage doubler, but a rewinding would be a better solution. For the "bargain" that this PS could be, i strongly think it is not the case anymore, since Dave´s show right now...;)
Would make a great - team up video with someone who can draw up a part for your 3d printer, then see you print it and fit it inside, making a more professional job of it
Hello, I purchased an HP 6673A for my brother in overseas and trying to test it in the US with a cheap voltage converter (US voltage: 110V 60Hz to 220V 50Hz) The unit powers on, I hear the fan noise, however there is no display. I downloaded the service manual and read the No display section, but can this no display issue be arising from the cheap voltage converter that I purchased from Amazon? What do you think? Thanks in advance.
Would it cause issues for the external sense line if you were to add a switch and then split it so that you can have it sense at the front binding posts, or switch to sensing right at the load?
Can't believe you just punched those holes for the posts how you did.... The end result is not great - you can see the tear by the positive. Almost made up for by the sense line mod though :P
I would like to make a 6-8x 5V power outlets in to my 'work room' various locations and I don't want use many transformes etc to do that so what kind power supply and caples do I need to make this? I have 6 device what needs about 1-2 amps and each device has its own transformer at the moment but I'm looking for a better solution. (I hope you understood what I mean)
Surely you had some of your µCurrent Gold binding posts lying around? But then again I guess you probably made as many units as parts you had available.
Maybe one of these fits better in the spacings in the front-panel: www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/734165/Sicherungs-Steckverbinder-Schwarz-Rot-10-A-SCI-1-St?ref=list
Sir please give solution on in power supply model 6643A. The problem is display is showing overload, while device working fine on full load. But the display always showing overload. Please make the vedio also. From India
One option for stabilizing the front binding posts would be to take a peice of non-clad pcb that is large enough to cover the 3 openings and drill 3 binding post holes in it. Stick the posts in and place the pcb on the back side, spin on the lock nuts and done deal. If you were concerned you could hot glue it in place.
lol! I just wrote the same thing...
Just what I was thinking!
Yes mike this is what i would have done ....but there is more than one way to skin a platapuss 🤔🤣
We use the at work for our low current tests, the only difference is ours is the model that goes to 100 volts. These things run 24/7 everyday and I have never seen one break. Pretty good quality
My 6632A already had the spade lugs. And the PSU is ABSOLUTELY ROCK SOLID! The drift in voltage really needs a 5.5 digit dvm to notice during warmup.
Dave Jones.
He's not just an electrical engineer.
He's a god.
Fill the holes with Epoxy glue (24 Hour type) mixed with cut up FG about 3mm long. Then drill for posts.
This worked well with mine. Good mod on the sense wires that is my next fix. Thanks Dave Thumbs Up!
Dave -- perfect use for the 3D printer, make a custom fitting for the front panel cut outs!
The videos I enjoy most on this channel are the ones where you hack things or fix things. :-) Good work!
Just got a 66332A for free at a garage sale and was planning to the same mod when I happened to stumble upon your vid. :)
Just got my hands on one of these, an older model actually, HP branded 6632A manufactured 1986. It still has the on board connectors for the front panel though. And looking forward to adding front panel binding posts using your video as a guide. Thanks Dave! By the way that things weighs a freaking ton, seriously it is like 40 Lbs.
Dave. You sir, are a genius. I thoroughly enjoyed that video. Great job!
to keylock the connectors, you would have to drill through the mounting surface into the flat backside of the connector and fit a pin. to make it rocksolid, use at least 2 opposed pins to handle the force symmetrically and fill the cutouts to have a plain mounting surface for the same reason.
A quick way to do a flat edge keyed hole when you don't have the tools to easily make such a hole is to drill (in your case, 3) round holes in a piece of PC board, metal, plastic, or whatever you're using. dremel or saw the board so the holes are partially cut through, at the point where you want the flat, then flip the cut piece around, bringing the flat edge against the hole. Secure the two PCB segments and you have a hole with a flat!
I have an HP-branded 6624A that I plan to mod in a similar way but with arduino-controlled relays to switch the output and sense terminals back to the rear panel if needed.
There's plenty of room on the front panel for another pair of binding posts or banana jacks for some remote sense connections at which point you could bring the sense lines all the way to your load...
For those front three jacks, I would order a small rectangular 3mm thick aluminum panel from a place like "Front Panel Express". A rectangular panel with screw holes in each of the corners, and the three binding post holes properly keyed to the shape of those Jaycar posts. They can also silkscreen the labels GND, POWER and EARTH or engrave them. They are always fun to receive orders from.
The mounting holes where the binding posts were installed might be for a metal plate.
The metal plate could be machined (or drilled out carefully with a Dremel tool) to properly mount your binding post form.
Why not drill three holes in a bare (copperless) piece of pcb material and use that as a washer behind the binding posts, then you have something firm to tighten them against and they will sit straight. Also, you do not have to mess around with epoxy.
Maria Engström The connectors are still not key locked in place, so they can still spin. Because the flat part would not extend far enough into the PCB to prevent turning.
EEVblog Use a flat sided drill bit. ;)
EEVblog What about printing a mount plate that fits in the bigger mounting holes? PLA should be stiff enough for that use
I would have liked to see the inside after mounting the posts. Agreed that some type of non-metallic pcb or phenolic behind the posts would have been best. Or commonly available non-metallic washers (fiber or nylon). The spinning issue after mounting won't be much of an issue as Dave will almost always be using banana or alligator clips. My $0.02
Jaycar any way has no a professional and good quality parts I have problems in Australia to get good parts, for the rest handy upgrade.
Great video
I did the same mod few months ago in my, my is a different version hp 6632a and it has a connector for the remote sense wire
Also in the diagram there is a mention of a board that got relay to switch sense and load output
That's pretty cool. Did bring up kind of interesting thought though. When they designed that they probably could have made a thing for simple selection of the since. A 3 pin jumper setup would do center to the circuitry, one on each side for front and rear sense. Then they could still mass produce the boards, and if it's a front panel model just change the jumpers. They could even probably play off that and make an after-market front panel with posts, a switch, etc in it. Then the switch could just link onto the jumper headers.
Those X2 caps look a lot like the ones used in the BBC Micro that go pop after 30 years (also used in the IBM 5150). I would recommend checking the heath of them or just replacing them, they go with a pop cracel, hiss and lots of smoke.
You can wire the sense wire to both terminals - don't need a switch. Even better, put a resistor (100 ohms?) in series with the sense wire near the output, and bring out its other terminal to another binding post for remote sensing.
Nice! Why not put 2 extra binding posts at the front for the sense terminals so you can have remote sense to compensate for the external wires when you need to, and you can link them to the + and - with those binding post links when you're not bothered about the drop?
Quality. Love the sense hack, so tidy.
Good video, looking forward to the jumper one!
Fantastic hack, Dave!!!
Nice job modding this power supply but if I were you I would add 2 more posts and connect them to the sense wires. This way you could connect them into the circuit you are testing directly to get the best possible precision. And you could use 2 pieces of metal plate to make jumpers right on the posts for "internal" sensing.
Very informative as usual. But Geez! Bit rough on the mod! Looks like the tears in the decal are visible next to the binding posts.
Dave it would be nice if you could do a video about guard rails on PCB, on when, why and how to implement them :)
IMO it's a decent approach to install these sense wires. I'm glad you didn't leave that front output without sense wires connected. I like a decent approach to electronics where it may make a difference. :)
I did this mod myself on a different version (6632B) My one actually had a terminal block at the output to bring inside to the front panel thankfully. the mod worked well only annoying thing is i think the PSU is out of cal, however it equally could be my (newer) UNI-T Multimeter.
Ah, I've been trying to figure the pinout of the four terminal resistor in a 66311B I bought as a fixer upper. The service manual says to use A1 R431-[pin]4 as the common for bias measurements.
hey man, nice hack job. There's a surprising amount of loss across the flood-filled pcb, and those banana connectors are also pretty flimsy judging from the losses they cause, but overall it's a nice little fix.
I'm really surprised that this front-panel binding post option was not so common. The engineers that designed this thing clearly anticipated it by getting the front panel cut out, having all the necessary stuff on the PCB and a selectable switch on the back for voltage sensing that could easily be used to select front/back sensing like Dave hacked it into in this video.
I bet this is a classic case where the upper management and the engineers did not communicate clearly enough on what the exact purpose of the device is, and the device ended up somewhere halfway what the engineers wanted and what management wanted. Either that, or a lot of these chasis parts and PCB are just reused from other models and they simply deemed it sufficient to cover the holes in the front panel with the sticker.
Props to using protoboard jumper wires.
Perhaps put some simple washers on the binding posts? Or even 3D print some mounts?
Another cool video Dave!
Hell yeah, more hack videos.
OMG, what a hack job installing those posts. If you do it on another unit please do it more proper, for example like Maria Engström suggested.
gamingSlasher Yes, I just wanted to finish this video. Will likely improve it as I want to do another unit.
interessting design idea for the DMM: Make the Voltage probe line sepperate, so the resistance of the current line wont drop it. could be done by the manufacturer.
That's called "four-terminal sensing" and is used by a lot of bench DMMs
Dave you have Makerbot, just use some ABS and print nice plate to attach your binding post! Will look nice and clean :)
This makes me wonder why they don't just use spade terminals at the point of regulation, rather than trying to snake large traces across the PCB in two directions? The difference between the front and rear options could be as simple as a couple jumper wires, and the requisite chassis-mount terminals.
Just cost reduction maybe?
I think some Dual Banana Panel posts would fit right there in the front. I found some on FleaBay for like $5 shipped.
Failing that, maybe some 3D printed parts would solve your issue with slippage.
Why not use your 3d printer to make a plastic mounting block to fit in the holes? Loving the videos still
Peter Moore It's not worth the dicking around.
Good idea
MichaelKingsfordGray I don't have a PCB milling machine.
EEVblog
aww come on dave, you said you have another one to do, you could have made a nice couple of vids making a decent part, this mod is pretty amateurish to be fair, to see you making up the part on the 3d to finishing it up, would have been good to see
EEVblog
I thought the whole point of having a little 3D printer at home is to dick around for hours to make weird shaped lumps of plastic for odd little jobs. If you don't do that, what do you do with it? :D
The unit would have looked better with bigger binding post with a washer on the back side to hold them firm
john senchak Yes, but I used what I had.
Fantastic thanks. I will try that on my unit..
Are the 0 Ohm jumpers connected to anything? It might just be for indication rather than model selection.
good point were is the previous video dave
i just looked on ebay the cheapest i saw them for was $280 USD also are the made by HP?
Have you considered bringing out the sense lines as separate terminals?
ide probably fine a nice neat bit of 1/2 inch wide white plastic and cut it so you can mount the 3 posts over it and put a piece on the front cover under the posts and at the back. You could then drill the front under size so the key on the posts firs in tight and stops them from spinning. It would look reasonable, no worse then half the Chinese designs beating around
Is it possible to check LM2672 semiconductor components in a circuit?
Dave, i would like to see more repair videos especially Apple tft monitors.
Keep up the good work!!!
I guess the cutouts are for 6 binding posts with 19mm spacing.
Lovely mod.
I would make a four terminal front (plus, minus, sense+ and sense-) and then a piece of metal bridge installed as default. I wonder, why this isn´t part of the original option.
love your hack videos
i was wondering when this would come out.
Mounting those posts would be trivial if you had a 3D printer. ;)
Nice mod, Glad you didn't settle for less.
I would of added sense binding posts so that you could cancel out the cable drop or just jump em over when you don't need the precision
I think that the oval nature of the existing front panel cutouts was to allow for two sets of black, red and green posts mounted left/right of each other. Was the vertical spacing the standard 3/4" (is there a metric equivalent)?
Yeah, 19mm LOL (it's such an engrained standard now that even metric countries seem to use it)
What is the purpose of this green/yellow plastic between the fan and the heatsink ?
Dave, 3D-print a holder for the binding posts :)
Great job dave very neet "winner winner chicken dinner "
Hi Dave,great video! as aways ;)
Every time i watch your vids i learn something new.
I was a bit surprised by the way you poked those holes Ô.o
Nice hack anyway .
7:41 Come on Dave, you should know the caps at the rear will do shit all for the terminals at the front given the inductance of those traces.
When are you going to make a video explaining dual quadrant?
"Very noyce" Love the aussie accent :D
Could you not just use a beefy gauge wire going from the back end connector to the binding posts on the front end? That way the sense line is still in play. Genuinely unsure, just a thought I had.
Guess I should have watched the whole video before posting... lol. Literally 20 seconds from where I paused the video to post he hooked up the remote sense wire.
***** Nope. No matter how big your cable you'd still get some drop.
EEVblog What I meant was take the connections from the back end to the front and skip adding all the extra components to the PCB itself. Would wiring from the back panel terminal block to the binding posts on the front not provide the same functionality?
8j ujjjp9jjjJO9999999 999999o9 die die&7uu7777777, im Moment auch
That sense makes sense! :-)
Nice mod, did not have any cable anchors eh? Scotch Tape? :)
Hi Dave!
Can you please install a mode switch in this type of power supply? (dip switch perhaps)
I'm considering buying one and I wonder if I could have more voltage with mod switch.
Thank you and keep up your great work!
Nelson Fernandes You can just get the similar 6654A it goes up to 60V. A reputable eBay seller that I know that has a used one in stock right now is frmoh_eng_con. Hope that helps!!
Great vid !
Ben JI It's only been up for a few minutes, you haven't watched it all yet!
I started watching then comented and kept on watching
***** Shouldn't that be AAAAA++++++++!
EEVblog 11/10 would watch again. CLASS AAAA++++ TH-camR.
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA+++++++++++++++++++++++
VIDEO
Good stuff
Dave...I really want to try modelling a 3d printed insert...but I can't find any drawings anywhere online regarding the size of the holes in the front panel. Is it possible to get a grid/transparency overlaid in a photo of the inside for scale? It would really strengthen that panel immensely.
I know this is an old video, but someone on thingiverse made a like for like STL file you can just download (search for HP Binding Post Adapter) and make this mod look much cleaner.
Dave seems to be short on time while doing this mod, just because he could do it much better, and i know that he´s indeed able to do so....Sometimes it´s just like this. You know a better way, but you simply have no time to spare for it.....
It´s just the same with my last project, as i rewound a torodial core, i used the wrong diameter of one coil, and ended up with a too low voltage, but instead of another rewind i simply used a voltage doubler, but a rewinding would be a better solution.
For the "bargain" that this PS could be, i strongly think it is not the case anymore, since Dave´s show right now...;)
Would make a great - team up video with someone who can draw up a part for your 3d printer, then see you print it and fit it inside, making a more professional job of it
Hello, I purchased an HP 6673A for my brother in overseas and trying to test it in the US with a cheap voltage converter (US voltage: 110V 60Hz to 220V 50Hz) The unit powers on, I hear the fan noise, however there is no display. I downloaded the service manual and read the No display section, but can this no display issue be arising from the cheap voltage converter that I purchased from Amazon? What do you think? Thanks in advance.
is this a dual tracking power supply? if no. why does anyone use single rail power supplies nowadays?.
is 150 usd a good price for one of these?
I have a problem with 6643A power supply, I turn on and the power supply send me 28 V and the display infantes DIS, could you help me?
looks like it's fitted for 3 double slots
I can get an 6032A in fully working for 80€. Is it a good price?
Would it cause issues for the external sense line if you were to add a switch and then split it so that you can have it sense at the front binding posts, or switch to sensing right at the load?
Razor2048 No, you could do that. But you can just disconnect the sense plug and put another one in instead.
EEVblog Dave, how is called that thing to create load???
You almost took out the precision out of the precision :)
Can't believe you just punched those holes for the posts how you did.... The end result is not great - you can see the tear by the positive.
Almost made up for by the sense line mod though :P
You could 3D print a spacer
I would like to make a 6-8x 5V power outlets in to my 'work room' various locations and I don't want use many transformes etc to do that so what kind power supply and caples do I need to make this? I have 6 device what needs about 1-2 amps and each device has its own transformer at the moment but I'm looking for a better solution. (I hope you understood what I mean)
What camera you've used?
3d print an insert for your binding posts
i caught myself saying in science " hey I want to use this power supply it has a heat sink and transistor seen at the back
Where's EEVblog #666? All I see is #665 and #667.
Surely you had some of your µCurrent Gold binding posts lying around? But then again I guess you probably made as many units as parts you had available.
Jabez Webb I didn't think they looked that part on this.
I honestly would be angry if it wasn't well designed or thought of. If you look at the price that they cost.
Dave....That was a horrible result hahaha I could not have shown that mangled front panel to anyone... Sure you don't need me saying so.
7? You disappoint me...
You should do a tear down and reverse engineering of the Iphone 6 plus!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Maybe one of these fits better in the spacings in the front-panel: www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/734165/Sicherungs-Steckverbinder-Schwarz-Rot-10-A-SCI-1-St?ref=list
Sir please give solution on in power supply model 6643A. The problem is display is showing overload, while device working fine on full load. But the display always showing overload. Please make the vedio also. From India
why u no make #666 episode :C
Shouldn't this be EEVBlog #666? :P
Where was #666???
Crimp on ring terminal all respect lost.