I know that I said it before but I’ll say it again, when it comes to Fuji tutorials you’re second to no one (by far), this is a great video and very helpful. By the way, your wife is very pleasant to watch. Be well, stay safe and have a great weekend.
Found this channel where the were only 20K subscribers and now you're at 85K. You are doing a wonderful job pal2tech 👏🏻, keep going and reaching a silver plate from TH-cam for 100k subs.
Awesome, you just give the best EVER explanation about why RAW is better than jpg. That’s why after all these years using Fujifilm I don’t get too excited about Fuji recipes and film emulations. 🙋🏻♂️
Geat tutorial that will influence how I shoot in high ISO circumstances with the X-E4 I just bought. I didn't even have the concept of ISO invariance, much less a strategy of incorporating the information in my photography.
Brilliant video Chris! The ideas you so clearly expressed about "ISO Invariance" tied together a lot of things that I've been experiencing with getting exposure right. You've clarified a lot for me. Thank you!
Great Video Chris. I've been doing that kind of stuff for years but never knew the technicalities behind it - now I do. Better still - we get a good looking lady to do the intro and outro - well done!
Nice to see your Pal2Live!! Interesting topic and advices. Cheers Chris & Family! Pd: you deserves 100k subs long long time ago, and not for the verification badge. You are awesome.
Great video Chris. After your video on DR I've been shooting mostly at DR200. When bracketing ISO for landscapes, 320 seemed to give the best result, rather than lower or higher once I had corrected all three to the same exposure stops. Might be something to explore there around getting the right balance of noise, dynamic range and sharpness!
Your wife is so charming, Chris! P.S. - I'm hoping to see my name go up on the Geariguana Wall sometime! I've been a member for 5 months and proud to be supporting the excellent content on this channel.
Great video Chris!! Thank you. Always looking forward to your videos. They are entertaining but also very interesting and helpful. Have a lovely weekend!
Pal2teck You're too pro!! you make me come back to your channel, it's magnetic, I find the best explanation of any detail on your channel, thanks to your intelligence and effort. You are the best teacher men!! Give some class to fujifilm bro!! lool...🤣 keep on going!!!!!!
Love your videos and your style to teach about basic photography principles. Though I'm a hobby photog for 9 years I can still learn some new stuff here :D keep up the good work. regards from germany
As far as my professor of camera technology told me, ISO is not the amplification of the sensor voltage. ISO just shifts the importance of the dynamic range window every sensor has. If you shoot a photo with ISO 100 1/100s f 4.0 and one with ISO 400 f 4.0 1/100s and you raise the exposure of the first photo in post by two stops, you would get the same image (considering shots are uncompressed raws) Video Gain however IS the voltage applied to the sensor (0,7 V at 0 dB) so plus 6 dB equals one stop brighter. The result is way more noise than high ISO
Thanks for the super informative videoes you create, always a pleasure to watch, even if the topic is something I feel I know about, I still watch just because, sometimes there is a little gemstone in there. Have a nice day, and a greate weekend, take care.
A new host ! Can’t wait to see the kids making the next video intro next to geariguana. As always a highly informative video . Also a question, have you seen the lectures of Mark Levoy on TH-cam ? I am at number 5 and they seem amazing .
Does the X-T4 have the waxy skin tone effect when using high ISO in camera? I know it was an issue with the X-T1 and similar old Fuji cameras. Using low ISO in camera and raising in post (even using the in-camera push processing after taking the photo) had much better results in those cameras.
X-T4 has two native ISO: 160 and 640 that means if you shoot at ISO 640 or more it applies 4x electrical amplification first (actually it might be the signal is not amplified, but divided for ISO below 640, I don't know). But long story short, your comparison with ISO 200 was incorrect. The sensor got 4 times less signal, so SNR was worse and you actually saw more noise at ISO 200 raised 5 stops. If you shoot ISO 800 and raised 2 stops, then there will be trully the identical level of noise. Cameras which are not ISO invariant, there is not one amplification degree, but a different degree for every ISO value. That was necessary when bitness of the sensor was not able to cover multiple stops. 14 bit sensor means you have 6 bits equal to 6 stops of ajustment when you export 8 bit color depth.
X-T3 and X-T2 switch at 800, but I have not seen any read noise measurements with the X-T4. Can you point me to data showing it's 640? But yeah, this test at 200 is just wrong.
Love the channel and specially your tips. Can u please make a video for astro settings for fuji cameras as I'm using fuji xe4 and while taking tracked long exposures of 60 secs & even with 200 iso whole image goes blown up with light. Thanks!!
This is pretty much why I have 2 ISO settings.. 640 and 2000 ALWAYS ( at least in Flog Video) I know its not exactly the same as its not raw, but I find it almost equally clean . I never touch ISO since I post process every shot/ image.
Does ISO invariance work both ways to recover highlights and reduce perceived noise? So if 3,200 can match 12,800 by raising 2 stops in post, can 12,800 also match 3,200 by lowering 2 stops?
While ISO invariance is good it’s always better to shoot for the shadows at high iso. Lifting shadows is where it falls apart and like cleaner if you had just used a higher iso
Fun fact: ISO on digital cameras don’t actually alter the exposure, as digital ISO is purely a post-capture signal gain; some cameras boost the analog signal off the sensor, some the digital signal after the analog-to-digital converter. None increase exposure, as you are not altering the light sensitivity of the sensor. What *does* alter exposure is amount of light; ie moving from the shadow to the direct sun, shooting on a sunny day vs overcast, or using a flash or continuous light, and the distance of the light from the subject. Hence all “exposure” triangles are wrong.
OK after watching your DR-400 and High Dynamic range video, I started to shoot at ISO 640 so that I can achieve DR-400 and and not get any highlight blown away as I am a landscape shooter. I know I can achieve the same goal with ISO 160 but that would require little bit more task on LR, yes LR now have new masking tools and somehow I feel it punch the sRGB color with the monitor better and sync it better. I was in fact a dedicated Capture One fan but to be honest with my personal experience I have seen that after using the latest LR the images has something that CaptureOne missed. I can not control users monitors brightness or faulty color profile but over all LR output looks better. Anyway the discussion is, after watching your Dynamic Range videos I have decided to take all my landscape shot with ISO 640 with DR-400 as most of my shots are in between darks and the lights. And I still consider ISO 640 is something on a daylight that I can bare with the noise that they can produce. OR would you suggest my to go back to ISO 160 or in some cause I can lower it down to ISO 80 on my X-T30 and use tripod and perhaps use multi exposure manually and stack them together in photoshop to have a better result?
Short answer is that I am moving away from using DR400. I took a shot of the same scene on a bright, sunny day. One using DR400 iso 640, and a second shot using DR100 Iso 160. Both were shot raw. In post, the DR400 had the better stock look, I think, but it definitely had more noise in the shadows-i got a better exposure from base iso and could manipulate it to look great. Both were usable images for sure but the lesson was to take the shot more than one way since DR400 is not always the cleanest result, if that’s what you’re hoping for. If I knew I’d develop in camera, I’d probably stick to DR400 since you don’t have nearly as much latitude to adjust shadows/highlights of a high contrast scene.
Great video. I have an X-T3 and I am definitely going to apply this tip going forward. Just curious, would you compromise this process by using the exposure compensation dial for part of the exposure differential? Thanks so much!!
And now we need to deside do we want a flexibility of shooting underexposed images, or the ability to quickly post jpegs by shooting raw+jpg. Can't have both. Sadly. So I left this method for some special ocasions. And mostly am shooting raw+jpg trying to get the jpg right and get away without editing.
8:04 Well i guess that was the best So, Fuji Dad (I apologize for such familiarity), I have a specific question to you I'm new in photography, x-t4 is my 1st stand alone camera (I mean, the camera which is not part of smartphone) I mostly shot with Chinese manual focus lenses with auto ISO and auto exp, and ibis is on (and set to proper focal range) But as I recon because of IBIS camera pumps up the exposure time to very high level sooo lot of my pictures (shooting mostly indoor with A iso max = 3200) of moving things (mostly my pretty gf) are blury, motion blured. And I already spotted a few times that fuji likes to overexpose image in low light condition, like that night mode in smartphones where night looks brighter than it is. So, would there be any tricks excepts setting exp compensating dial to -1 or -2? I don't really want to manage manually with iso or exp dials, at least just because of time consuming for vulgar family live style shooting. So, a few piece of advice? Is it a specific trouble for those who shot with ibis in noob way?
That is very interesting wow. I have a wedding coming up never shot one on a Fuji before lol. I would like to know what you say about iso low. As I get told a lot on my channel why don't I use low as its better that 160 but understand its not?
Thanks for the informative video. Does this imply that you increase the exposure on the RAW file? How many stops can you confidently increase it if shooting in JPEG? Thank you in advance.
With RAW you are increasing exposure. JPEG is the same thing but now you have to be aware of your camera jpeg settings and understand that you have less range to modify the image in post production. Both RAW and JPEG could be pushed the same amount of stops.
I don't think you can push the JPG as much as the RAW. I've tired a couple of experiments and in my observations you can defiantly push the RAW a LOT more. Try it out yourself by doing a JPG plus RAW shoot!
You CAN’T expect the same results from a Jpg. Jpgs have little latitude for editing. Blowing the highlights in Jpgs is not something you want to do. Stick to RAW if you want to take your editing seriously. Or shoot both and if you see that your JPGs are fine, then you may delete your RAWs if you’re concerned about disk space.
You are best reworking your RAW file to produce a new JPEG file. A JPEG image has been processed from the RAW file and changes to only an existing JPEG file may reveal some unwanted artifacts.
Thanks Chris(tine) 😂👍🏽 Say you wouldn’t happen to know what the best bang for buck ISO setting would be for shooting low light video? I recall the XT3 & XT4 are dual gain sensors, so 800 is better value then 640, 2000 is better than 1600 ? Something like that. And then I heard this is only for FLOG? Huh? Is that true? Any idea?
How would selectively brightening in post compare to bracketing and then merging say 3 shots? Just wondering if ISO invariance kinda makes bracketing obsolete. Also could it be useful for street photography? I'm thinking low light but needing 1/500s you could keep ISO lower and selectively brighten areas of scene that fit the narrative you are trying to convey. Many add a vignette in post but if you under-expose you effectively start out with a vignette already in place.
Great video-thanks! I love Fuji JPEG’s but of course Fuji processes them really well in-camera. I dislike editing Fuji raw-awful. What’s your advice about underexposing Fuji JPEG’s?
Thanks for interesting video. A question is if there is a point in always underexpose say 2 stops? Other than if you can expose at base iso and correct exposure of course. You wouldn't blow out any highlights that way.
Hi, I am always learning from you. Thank you! - Btw as you invested considerable time in your CAPTURE ONE tutorials (which were / are excellent) and this demo is on Lr, can I ask what you prefer and why? _ I am assuming that you use both (?). - I imagine you might be an Lr (C) fan for catalogues and then export for specific reasons (?). Would love yo know 🙂
Since my Imac system is old but loaded with Photoshop, Illustrator Premiere, etc. that does not require the cloud, I can't access any decent Lightroom or even Fuji raw software converters. (I'm working on this) So my question is, does the exposure slider in Lightroom give me more quality than the ones in Photoshop?
She does my intros/outros better than I do! 👍
😂👏🏽
👍😄
at least she looks prettier ;-)
All in favor of having Chris' wife doing all outros going forward, say aye! AYE!
You are both awesome!
Thank you for another epic fun and educational video :)
Being a Fuji shooter I love this channel and I am always learning new things to improve. THANK YOU!
I know that I said it before but I’ll say it again, when it comes to Fuji tutorials you’re second to no one (by far), this is a great video and very helpful. By the way, your wife is very pleasant to watch. Be well, stay safe and have a great weekend.
Found this channel where the were only 20K subscribers and now you're at 85K. You are doing a wonderful job pal2tech 👏🏻, keep going and reaching a silver plate from TH-cam for 100k subs.
Thank you so much. Your kind words mean more to may than any silver plate ever could! 🙏
Awesome, you just give the best EVER explanation about why RAW is better than jpg. That’s why after all these years using Fujifilm I don’t get too excited about Fuji recipes and film emulations. 🙋🏻♂️
Her bubbly outro was fabulous.
Great info as usual. Thankyou.
Seriously one of the most creative YTubers in this space. Right up there with PeterMcKinnon in my eyes.
Prof. Fuji, good to see you back with full energy.......excellent video as always.
Geat tutorial that will influence how I shoot in high ISO circumstances with the X-E4 I just bought. I didn't even have the concept of ISO invariance, much less a strategy of incorporating the information in my photography.
You are good.... Your explanation is simple direct and easy to understand, No mumble jumbo!
Brilliant video Chris! The ideas you so clearly expressed about "ISO Invariance" tied together a lot of things that I've been experiencing with getting exposure right. You've clarified a lot for me. Thank you!
Thanks for your genius channel . I learned from you as never about my fuji !! Thank you from Belgium 🇧🇪
That was a superb demonstration of ISO invariance! Thanks, Chris!
Great Video Chris. I've been doing that kind of stuff for years but never knew the technicalities behind it - now I do. Better still - we get a good looking lady to do the intro and outro - well done!
Best introduction of the channel ever 😌
Very cool to know! And "Flexibility" is always good, Chris. The intros and outros are beautiful!!!
Just only for the intro and outro this video deserves at least a tripple thumbs up!
Loving the Glamour you have brought into the mix Chris, and hey the lady is good. I liked the info bit in the middle too.
Nice to see your Pal2Live!! Interesting topic and advices. Cheers Chris & Family!
Pd: you deserves 100k subs long long time ago, and not for the verification badge. You are awesome.
I've been casually wondering about if it matters in camera vs post- thanks for providing the info!
Loving the new format with the nice lady doing the intro and outro.
Incredibly good video Chris. Can't wait for your next video. Have a nice day !
Thank you so much Adnan!!! 🙏 Cheers my friend!
And here I thought I knew most everything about my X-T3. Thanks for this very informative video!
Great video! I now understand how I have been using ISO Invariance for many years - never fully grasped the term till now. 🤪
So nice of your cute daughter to help you out with intros/outros..😉😁🙌🏼
Awesome intro/outro! Ha ha~ But yeah, shooting to save highlights, then bring back shadows in post is a good technique for all cameras~
Great video Chris. After your video on DR I've been shooting mostly at DR200. When bracketing ISO for landscapes, 320 seemed to give the best result, rather than lower or higher once I had corrected all three to the same exposure stops. Might be something to explore there around getting the right balance of noise, dynamic range and sharpness!
Your wife is so charming, Chris! P.S. - I'm hoping to see my name go up on the Geariguana Wall sometime! I've been a member for 5 months and proud to be supporting the excellent content on this channel.
another great video! And wonderful, as always, to see the Mrs! Great job Christine!!
Thank you so much Michael!!! I hope you are doing great!
Great video Chris!! Thank you. Always looking forward to your videos. They are entertaining but also very interesting and helpful. Have a lovely weekend!
Pal2teck You're too pro!! you make me come back to your channel, it's magnetic, I find the best explanation of any detail on your channel, thanks to your intelligence and effort. You are the best teacher men!! Give some class to fujifilm bro!! lool...🤣 keep on going!!!!!!
Love the intro/outro! As always very interesting and useful stuff for Fuji folk!
Looking forward to this! Always a bit hesitant with this
Chris what a tremendously helpful video! Took so much time i'm sure (like all your videos) but really really insightful.
Love your videos and your style to teach about basic photography principles. Though I'm a hobby photog for 9 years I can still learn some new stuff here :D
keep up the good work. regards from germany
Very interesting remarks on ISO. Thanks 🙏. I love this intro/outro 😉.
Like we said in France: J’ADORE !!!
As far as my professor of camera technology told me, ISO is not the amplification of the sensor voltage. ISO just shifts the importance of the dynamic range window every sensor has. If you shoot a photo with ISO 100 1/100s f 4.0 and one with ISO 400 f 4.0 1/100s and you raise the exposure of the first photo in post by two stops, you would get the same image (considering shots are uncompressed raws)
Video Gain however IS the voltage applied to the sensor (0,7 V at 0 dB) so plus 6 dB equals one stop brighter. The result is way more noise than high ISO
Brilliant! Hope this helps finally 'reducing the noise' in this subject.
this is an awesome instructional video!! subbed!
This was SO SO very helpful, thank you!! Especially now that I am finally looking to upgrade, either to an S10 or a T4.. HRMMM..
Thanks, nicely explained, with some good tip thrown in...
Freaking awesome info. I had never heard of ISO invariance. Love it!
Excellent video, Chris. Thanks for making clear what took me years to work out.
Thank you so much! This will be a lot of help in how I think about shots
Thanks a lot Chris. This is a very clever topic ! (As many others .....) I appreciate so much. Thanks again.
Great video and subject Chris, you always explain things so well
Thank you so much for sharing. I learn so much from you.
nice intro and outdo and value in between :)
greeeeeaaaaaaaaaaat video! c'mon, Chris....the road to 100k is started!
Very helpful video, thank you Chris!
Thank you. So much.
I hope you get well.
Thank you.... was unknowingly doing this to protect the highlights.... :-)
Thanks for the super informative videoes you create, always a pleasure to watch, even if the topic is something I feel I know about, I still watch just because, sometimes there is a little gemstone in there. Have a nice day, and a greate weekend, take care.
Always learning a lot. Love your energy! Do you have a video on "shooting in a snowy landscape"? I live in Quebec, and lot's a snow here!
A new host ! Can’t wait to see the kids making the next video intro next to geariguana. As always a highly informative video . Also a question, have you seen the lectures of Mark Levoy on TH-cam ? I am at number 5 and they seem amazing .
Not yet but I'll check him out today! Thank you!!!!
Great video!Thank you again!!
Does the X-T4 have the waxy skin tone effect when using high ISO in camera? I know it was an issue with the X-T1 and similar old Fuji cameras.
Using low ISO in camera and raising in post (even using the in-camera push processing after taking the photo) had much better results in those cameras.
Amazingly explained
I'm a new follower but I think you are right. Take a rest and care of you
You are so right! Many thanks 👍
Again: Well done. Thank you.
Wow this was really useful!!
X-T4 has two native ISO: 160 and 640 that means if you shoot at ISO 640 or more it applies 4x electrical amplification first (actually it might be the signal is not amplified, but divided for ISO below 640, I don't know). But long story short, your comparison with ISO 200 was incorrect. The sensor got 4 times less signal, so SNR was worse and you actually saw more noise at ISO 200 raised 5 stops. If you shoot ISO 800 and raised 2 stops, then there will be trully the identical level of noise. Cameras which are not ISO invariant, there is not one amplification degree, but a different degree for every ISO value. That was necessary when bitness of the sensor was not able to cover multiple stops. 14 bit sensor means you have 6 bits equal to 6 stops of ajustment when you export 8 bit color depth.
X-T3 and X-T2 switch at 800, but I have not seen any read noise measurements with the X-T4. Can you point me to data showing it's 640? But yeah, this test at 200 is just wrong.
Your right but it's important people learn what exposure is and setting the best in camera settings
Another great informative presentation. Cheers!
By the way, she should do your intro more frequent.
Amazing explanation. Thank you!
Thanks Luis!!! 🙏
Very helpful, thank you a lot
Love the channel and specially your tips. Can u please make a video for astro settings for fuji cameras as I'm using fuji xe4 and while taking tracked long exposures of 60 secs & even with 200 iso whole image goes blown up with light. Thanks!!
Best intro ever!
What a great video!
U are a great teacher
This is pretty much why I have 2 ISO settings.. 640 and 2000 ALWAYS ( at least in Flog Video) I know its not exactly the same as its not raw, but I find it almost equally clean . I never touch ISO since I post process every shot/ image.
Does ISO invariance work both ways to recover highlights and reduce perceived noise? So if 3,200 can match 12,800 by raising 2 stops in post, can 12,800 also match 3,200 by lowering 2 stops?
Love it. Great video.
While ISO invariance is good it’s always better to shoot for the shadows at high iso. Lifting shadows is where it falls apart and like cleaner if you had just used a higher iso
Fun fact: ISO on digital cameras don’t actually alter the exposure, as digital ISO is purely a post-capture signal gain; some cameras boost the analog signal off the sensor, some the digital signal after the analog-to-digital converter. None increase exposure, as you are not altering the light sensitivity of the sensor.
What *does* alter exposure is amount of light; ie moving from the shadow to the direct sun, shooting on a sunny day vs overcast, or using a flash or continuous light, and the distance of the light from the subject.
Hence all “exposure” triangles are wrong.
Nope 😅
Brilliant video
Your wife is SO pretty and she did a great job!!
🙏🙏🙏
OK after watching your DR-400 and High Dynamic range video, I started to shoot at ISO 640 so that I can achieve DR-400 and and not get any highlight blown away as I am a landscape shooter. I know I can achieve the same goal with ISO 160 but that would require little bit more task on LR, yes LR now have new masking tools and somehow I feel it punch the sRGB color with the monitor better and sync it better. I was in fact a dedicated Capture One fan but to be honest with my personal experience I have seen that after using the latest LR the images has something that CaptureOne missed. I can not control users monitors brightness or faulty color profile but over all LR output looks better. Anyway the discussion is, after watching your Dynamic Range videos I have decided to take all my landscape shot with ISO 640 with DR-400 as most of my shots are in between darks and the lights. And I still consider ISO 640 is something on a daylight that I can bare with the noise that they can produce. OR would you suggest my to go back to ISO 160 or in some cause I can lower it down to ISO 80 on my X-T30 and use tripod and perhaps use multi exposure manually and stack them together in photoshop to have a better result?
Short answer is that I am moving away from using DR400. I took a shot of the same scene on a bright, sunny day. One using DR400 iso 640, and a second shot using DR100 Iso 160. Both were shot raw. In post, the DR400 had the better stock look, I think, but it definitely had more noise in the shadows-i got a better exposure from base iso and could manipulate it to look great. Both were usable images for sure but the lesson was to take the shot more than one way since DR400 is not always the cleanest result, if that’s what you’re hoping for. If I knew I’d develop in camera, I’d probably stick to DR400 since you don’t have nearly as much latitude to adjust shadows/highlights of a high contrast scene.
Would you recommend this camera for a beginner, I love the simplicity of the dials/settings
Can you please make a video on auto focusing adapters to use lenses from other brands on fujifilm camers...eg-fringer adapter..
Great video as always
Great video. I have an X-T3 and I am definitely going to apply this tip going forward. Just curious, would you compromise this process by using the exposure compensation dial for part of the exposure differential? Thanks so much!!
And now we need to deside do we want a flexibility of shooting underexposed images, or the ability to quickly post jpegs by shooting raw+jpg. Can't have both. Sadly. So I left this method for some special ocasions. And mostly am shooting raw+jpg trying to get the jpg right and get away without editing.
8:04
Well i guess that was the best
So, Fuji Dad (I apologize for such familiarity), I have a specific question to you
I'm new in photography, x-t4 is my 1st stand alone camera (I mean, the camera which is not part of smartphone)
I mostly shot with Chinese manual focus lenses with auto ISO and auto exp, and ibis is on (and set to proper focal range)
But as I recon because of IBIS camera pumps up the exposure time to very high level sooo lot of my pictures (shooting mostly indoor with A iso max = 3200) of moving things (mostly my pretty gf) are blury, motion blured. And I already spotted a few times that fuji likes to overexpose image in low light condition, like that night mode in smartphones where night looks brighter than it is.
So, would there be any tricks excepts setting exp compensating dial to -1 or -2? I don't really want to manage manually with iso or exp dials, at least just because of time consuming for vulgar family live style shooting.
So, a few piece of advice? Is it a specific trouble for those who shot with ibis in noob way?
That stare after "If you're moon-o and only have one eye, you don't want to blow it out."
😆
Damn Chris...where do you think this stuff up at. Outstanding!!
Thank you. I had no idea my camera could do this lol.
That is very interesting wow. I have a wedding coming up never shot one on a Fuji before lol. I would like to know what you say about iso low. As I get told a lot on my channel why don't I use low as its better that 160 but understand its not?
Thanks for the informative video. Does this imply that you increase the exposure on the RAW file? How many stops can you confidently increase it if shooting in JPEG? Thank you in advance.
With RAW you are increasing exposure. JPEG is the same thing but now you have to be aware of your camera jpeg settings and understand that you have less range to modify the image in post production. Both RAW and JPEG could be pushed the same amount of stops.
I don't think you can push the JPG as much as the RAW. I've tired a couple of experiments and in my observations you can defiantly push the RAW a LOT more. Try it out yourself by doing a JPG plus RAW shoot!
You CAN’T expect the same results from a Jpg. Jpgs have little latitude for editing. Blowing the highlights in Jpgs is not something you want to do. Stick to RAW if you want to take your editing seriously. Or shoot both and if you see that your JPGs are fine, then you may delete your RAWs if you’re concerned about disk space.
You are best reworking your RAW file to produce a new JPEG file. A JPEG image has been processed from the RAW file and changes to only an existing JPEG file may reveal some unwanted artifacts.
Thanks Chris(tine) 😂👍🏽
Say you wouldn’t happen to know what the best bang for buck ISO setting would be for shooting low light video? I recall the XT3 & XT4 are dual gain sensors, so 800 is better value then 640, 2000 is better than 1600 ? Something like that. And then I heard this is only for FLOG? Huh? Is that true? Any idea?
🤣😂🤣😂🤣 outstanding intro/outro 🎖🎖🎖🎖
How would selectively brightening in post compare to bracketing and then merging say 3 shots? Just wondering if ISO invariance kinda makes bracketing obsolete. Also could it be useful for street photography? I'm thinking low light but needing 1/500s you could keep ISO lower and selectively brighten areas of scene that fit the narrative you are trying to convey. Many add a vignette in post but if you under-expose you effectively start out with a vignette already in place.
Great video-thanks! I love Fuji JPEG’s but of course Fuji processes them really well in-camera. I dislike editing Fuji raw-awful. What’s your advice about underexposing Fuji JPEG’s?
1:45 was so funny to me for some reason 🤣
Thanks for interesting video. A question is if there is a point in always underexpose say 2 stops? Other than if you can expose at base iso and correct exposure of course. You wouldn't blow out any highlights that way.
Doesn't Dual Native ISO of the X-T4 somewhat contradict ISO Invariance?
So you should split it into ISO Invariance from 160-640 and 640+.
Hi, I am always learning from you. Thank you! - Btw as you invested considerable time in your CAPTURE ONE tutorials (which were / are excellent) and this demo is on Lr, can I ask what you prefer and why? _ I am assuming that you use both (?). - I imagine you might be an Lr (C) fan for catalogues and then export for specific reasons (?). Would love yo know 🙂
I wonder the same thing so hopefully Chris will answer us!
There are AI programs by DXO and Topaz that can reduce the noise at post.
Since my Imac system is old but loaded with Photoshop, Illustrator Premiere, etc. that does not require the cloud, I can't access any decent Lightroom or even Fuji raw software converters. (I'm working on this) So my question is, does the exposure slider in Lightroom give me more quality than the ones in Photoshop?