These are the items you need for the rebuild are here www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AGBRCYWHSGJWRCEN65MM3V7P5JJA Bearings Needed: SKF 6006 C3 (Snout Bearing) Quantity 1 (30x55x13) amzn.to/3KEbRlm SKF 6001-2RS C3 (Back of Rotors) Quantity 2 (12x28x8) amzn.to/3kBs0gP KYK 5205 C3 (Front of Rotors) Quantity 2 (25x52x20.6) amzn.to/3EGk6JG Seals Needed: EAI Viton Snout Quantity 1 (30x47x7) amzn.to/3IZDAMb EAI Viton Rear of Rotors Quantity 2 (18x30x7) amzn.to/3kDnyxV EAI Viton Front of Rotors Quantity 2 (35x45x8) amzn.to/3KER9ld Additional items needed: Supercharger Belt tensioner amzn.to/3Z8qe5G Supercharger belt Gates 6pk1425 amzn.to/3Z9QAV2 1 bottle of Redline 75w90ns will use 3.77oz amzn.to/3mdMeOc
Hopefully it helps my friend! I know it’s almost impossible to find any information out there on these things so if you end up needing anything drop a comment below and I’ll try my best to help you out! As for the parts they were all ordered off eBay. -Dr.SidewayZ
Good vid as far as how the unit is assembled. Only thing is that your marks mean nothing on gears. Because the gears are not keyed to the screws, your screw timing can/will be off. I am sure the factory has a spec that you would measure with a feeler gauge or some other means of measurement for gap between screws. For anyone looking for instruction, this vid will help for 99% of what you need to do, but screw timing will have to be done before gears taken off. I would take a feeler gauge between screws and check gap before removing from housing thru outlet port and inlet port. Then when tightening gears back down to screws, put feeler gauge back between screws and then tighten while using the pulley tool he was using in vid. Just my input on what I seen.
Unfortunately if bearings have failed there is no way to know screw timing or gear face lash. Also it would be nice if sprintex would reply or publish information as to the specs of the bearings, torque specs, and lash adjustments but unfortunately they don’t so if someone was to find these measurements I’ll toss them in the description to help the future guys out. Thanks for your viewership!
How would you compare these parts to the kit they sell at JB Perfomance? Just curious … great video by the way … 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻… will be saved to my playlist for when I rebuild my R53 sprintex before slapping it on
Well being this was birthed out of not being able to get a response from them I guess if you can get them to return your call or email it might be worth having a grab and go bag but if you don’t mind doings the leg work this works too. Appreciate you checking out the video!
More then likely, the only thing I think is different is the adapter plates because the s5-210 denotes what charger it is and that’s the only variant of it some had Teflon coated screws others didn’t
How did you get the two main turbines uninstalled? I really wish you would've shown a video of how you got to this stage. Really hoping my supercharger spin's straight with trying to take the stupid thing apart. No directions I could find anywhere.
It’s crude but I used a rag and let it bite down on it with the blades and then I used the Allen socket to break them loose, unfortunately there is no published information on torque so make sure you tighten them tight. Also as the video outlines there is one bolt that is reverse thread
@@DrSidewayZ tried same thing. Won't budge rag heat and oil still won't break even with a air gun. Just gonna replace everything besides these bearings.... Which is a bummer since I already have all the seals and bearings purchased and here. Disappointed Looks like it's been rebuilt before hence maybe why it's hard to remove. I'm the third owner I think. Thank you for the quick reply btw! your video is the only thing out there with any information!
It’s a bit of a trick as one is reverse thread and the other is normal thread, knowing I was going to be replacing the bearings I took a rag and stuck between the rotors and allowed it to eat the rag then broke one bolt loose with a impact, took the rag out and stuck it on the other side of the supercharger and allows it to eat it on that side and broke the other bolt loose. This is not ideal but without having a cnc block to place between the rotors it makes it hard and you have to find the least destructive manner to do it. This worked for me it might for you.
It’s crude but I was having the same issue, knowing you’re going to replace the bearings watch the video in its entirety and identify the correct bolt and the correct direction in which it comes loose as one bolt is reverse thread. What I did was stuff a rag in the inlet side and used an Allen on a impact gun and it got it out. Just be careful, the alternative is to have a billet scroll holder made and place the assembly in it.
Hey! The very first seal you replaced in the video if it was bad, could it cause oil to leak? I'm trying to find the leak while on the car and its on the back of the charger and onto the compressor. Thank you
Is it near the pulley or on the opposite side? The pulley side is notorious for leaking due to positive pressure leaking into the gear drive and forcing the fluid out that’s what ultimately caused the failure of mine with the previous owner not keeping a eye on the fluid level, it’s scary because sprintex actually recommended a checking the fluid level every 3k miles, idk one person that actually does that.
@@Brayden_Robinson yeah that’s typically the last one to leak which means the inner seals are more then likely leaking and allowing boost pressure to enter the timing case resulting in it pushing the oil out. Unfortunately it’s just a bad design on the behalf of sprintex
I just used generic lube for assembling them, assembly lube works great and for the oil I used Redline 75W/90NS High Performance gear oil or equivalent and fill with exactly 111 millilitres’ or 3.77 US fluid ounces. Replace copper sealing gasket on fill plug, fit plug and torque to 10 Nm or 7 ft-lbs.
@@DrSidewayZ thank you!!! already have some gear oil in that same weight and spec just royal purple branded. Just didn't know the clear lube you used on the rotor edges and between the top two main gears
@@Hellcat707 no problem just make sure there are no burs on the edges and that it protrudes further then the backing plate so if you took a ruler and placed it it would sit on the spacer and not the backing plate if that makes sense
@@DrSidewayZ does the big gear have a tight fit onto the coupling shaft below? Mine is easy to pop on and off. More difficulty meshing back with small gear.
very good explanation. the bad thing is that as you say, there are no tightening measures. I need help since I am removing the pulley from my supercharger, but after I removed the pulley, I want to know if the allen screw is a normal thread or does it turn against it?
Is there anything or any bolt that covers the top middle hole pulley side between the fill and drain plug holes? I'm left with nothing plugging it and I don't see what I'm supposed to use there didn't see it on the pdf of sprintex instruction manual either at least not yet Just don't want to fill and and install without knowing for sure Last part of the video
@@DrSidewayZ Hey boss, sorry to bother you. I'm stuck. From what I understand, the small driven gear is left handed thread and held down by the bolt. Using a pin wrench to hold the small gear down while spinning the bolt clockwise won't work, because holding the gear won't stop the rotor from turning. Do I keep both gears in place and hold the opposite bolt down?
And now I understand even more why you had spent so much time at the end. When you also used the pin wrench the rotor spun changing the screw alignment with the big gear. There is no timing. Only matching bolt holes. Still.. How did you remove the bolt the first time?
Awesome, I am servicing my S5-210 atm too. I am just about to remove the gears to access the front bearings. Two questions if you don't mind. What did you apply to the bearing seals and did you have any torque specifications? Thanks!!!
No sweat, I used dielectric grease to lube them to prevent damage on assembly, assembling them dry would cause damage to the sealing lips, unfortunately torque specs are not published, I ultimately attempted to duplicate the torque it took to break them free, it’s not ideal but unfortunately sprintex openly refuses to respond to calls and emails
@@DrSidewayZ I hear you on that. I'll try to call again to see if I can get any numbers. Thanks for sharing your work. Extremely helpful! I'm tempted to video my work as well to help others out as well.
These are the items you need for the rebuild are here www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.account.AGBRCYWHSGJWRCEN65MM3V7P5JJA
Bearings Needed:
SKF 6006 C3 (Snout Bearing) Quantity 1 (30x55x13) amzn.to/3KEbRlm
SKF 6001-2RS C3 (Back of Rotors) Quantity 2 (12x28x8) amzn.to/3kBs0gP
KYK 5205 C3 (Front of Rotors) Quantity 2 (25x52x20.6) amzn.to/3EGk6JG
Seals Needed:
EAI Viton Snout Quantity 1 (30x47x7) amzn.to/3IZDAMb
EAI Viton Rear of Rotors Quantity 2 (18x30x7) amzn.to/3kDnyxV
EAI Viton Front of Rotors Quantity 2 (35x45x8) amzn.to/3KER9ld
Additional items needed:
Supercharger Belt tensioner
amzn.to/3Z8qe5G
Supercharger belt Gates 6pk1425
amzn.to/3Z9QAV2
1 bottle of Redline 75w90ns will use 3.77oz
amzn.to/3mdMeOc
@DrSideWayZ, this is an excellent and very informative video. I thank you for that!
Wow ! First rebuild sprintex supercharger Video ! Amazing 🤩
and bearing parts number 👍👍
Your DR 👌
Hopefully it helps my friend! I know it’s almost impossible to find any information out there on these things so if you end up needing anything drop a comment below and I’ll try my best to help you out! As for the parts they were all ordered off eBay.
-Dr.SidewayZ
@@DrSidewayZ
Very thanks dear
I will search on eBay by parts number and size
♥️
this video was so incredibly helpful. I was rebuilding my sprintex s5-150 and this helped tremendously. Thank you for making this video
Glad I could help! I hate there is little to no info out there on these!
@@DrSidewayZ how did you find the info for the part numbers for the bearings and bearing seals?
I took them from the existing bearings and seals i measured with a mic
Good vid as far as how the unit is assembled. Only thing is that your marks mean nothing on gears. Because the gears are not keyed to the screws, your screw timing can/will be off. I am sure the factory has a spec that you would measure with a feeler gauge or some other means of measurement for gap between screws. For anyone looking for instruction, this vid will help for 99% of what you need to do, but screw timing will have to be done before gears taken off. I would take a feeler gauge between screws and check gap before removing from housing thru outlet port and inlet port. Then when tightening gears back down to screws, put feeler gauge back between screws and then tighten while using the pulley tool he was using in vid. Just my input on what I seen.
Unfortunately if bearings have failed there is no way to know screw timing or gear face lash. Also it would be nice if sprintex would reply or publish information as to the specs of the bearings, torque specs, and lash adjustments but unfortunately they don’t so if someone was to find these measurements I’ll toss them in the description to help the future guys out. Thanks for your viewership!
How would you compare these parts to the kit they sell at JB Perfomance? Just curious … great video by the way … 🤙🏻🤙🏻🤙🏻… will be saved to my playlist for when I rebuild my R53 sprintex before slapping it on
Well being this was birthed out of not being able to get a response from them I guess if you can get them to return your call or email it might be worth having a grab and go bag but if you don’t mind doings the leg work this works too. Appreciate you checking out the video!
woow amazing video thank for this. How many miles has it traveled?
amazing, all very well explained. Could you comment on what measurements of seals and bearings are required?
Hey check the video description it has everything you need listed in there 🤙🏻
Is this the same compressor unit s5-210 used in the innovate in Sprintex 3.8 jeep wrangler kits. Wondering if the parts list the same"¿
More then likely, the only thing I think is different is the adapter plates because the s5-210 denotes what charger it is and that’s the only variant of it some had Teflon coated screws others didn’t
How did you get the two main turbines uninstalled? I really wish you would've shown a video of how you got to this stage.
Really hoping my supercharger spin's straight with trying to take the stupid thing apart.
No directions I could find anywhere.
It’s crude but I used a rag and let it bite down on it with the blades and then I used the Allen socket to break them loose, unfortunately there is no published information on torque so make sure you tighten them tight. Also as the video outlines there is one bolt that is reverse thread
@@DrSidewayZ tried same thing.
Won't budge rag heat and oil still won't break even with a air gun.
Just gonna replace everything besides these bearings.... Which is a bummer since I already have all the seals and bearings purchased and here.
Disappointed
Looks like it's been rebuilt before hence maybe why it's hard to remove. I'm the third owner I think.
Thank you for the quick reply btw! your video is the only thing out there with any information!
hello! To disassemble the rotors was it cold with pure force? or did you apply heat with a torch?
It’s a bit of a trick as one is reverse thread and the other is normal thread, knowing I was going to be replacing the bearings I took a rag and stuck between the rotors and allowed it to eat the rag then broke one bolt loose with a impact, took the rag out and stuck it on the other side of the supercharger and allows it to eat it on that side and broke the other bolt loose. This is not ideal but without having a cnc block to place between the rotors it makes it hard and you have to find the least destructive manner to do it. This worked for me it might for you.
Amazing, very well explained. I am trying to remove the gears on sprintex S-315 but the bolts are not coming loose! any idea?
It’s crude but I was having the same issue, knowing you’re going to replace the bearings watch the video in its entirety and identify the correct bolt and the correct direction in which it comes loose as one bolt is reverse thread. What I did was stuff a rag in the inlet side and used an Allen on a impact gun and it got it out. Just be careful, the alternative is to have a billet scroll holder made and place the assembly in it.
Hey! The very first seal you replaced in the video if it was bad, could it cause oil to leak? I'm trying to find the leak while on the car and its on the back of the charger and onto the compressor. Thank you
Is it near the pulley or on the opposite side? The pulley side is notorious for leaking due to positive pressure leaking into the gear drive and forcing the fluid out that’s what ultimately caused the failure of mine with the previous owner not keeping a eye on the fluid level, it’s scary because sprintex actually recommended a checking the fluid level every 3k miles, idk one person that actually does that.
@@DrSidewayZ it is near the pulley!
@@Brayden_Robinson yeah that’s typically the last one to leak which means the inner seals are more then likely leaking and allowing boost pressure to enter the timing case resulting in it pushing the oil out. Unfortunately it’s just a bad design on the behalf of sprintex
What gear lube for the main gear cogs did you use?
And also what kinda lube did you put on the rotor's on the edges as you were putting them in?
I just used generic lube for assembling them, assembly lube works great and for the oil I used Redline 75W/90NS High Performance gear oil or equivalent and fill with exactly 111 millilitres’ or 3.77 US fluid ounces.
Replace copper sealing gasket on fill plug, fit plug and torque to 10 Nm or 7 ft-lbs.
@@DrSidewayZ thank you!!! already have some gear oil in that same weight and spec just royal purple branded.
Just didn't know the clear lube you used on the rotor edges and between the top two main gears
Hi dear
I see another 2 bearing on at the minute 17:52
What this?
They are spacers that go behind the timing gears, they are not bearings
@@DrSidewayZ
Ok 👍 thanks so much
@@Hellcat707 no problem just make sure there are no burs on the edges and that it protrudes further then the backing plate so if you took a ruler and placed it it would sit on the spacer and not the backing plate if that makes sense
@@DrSidewayZ does the big gear have a tight fit onto the coupling shaft below?
Mine is easy to pop on and off. More difficulty meshing back with small gear.
very good explanation. the bad thing is that as you say, there are no tightening measures. I need help since I am removing the pulley from my supercharger, but after I removed the pulley, I want to know if the allen screw is a normal thread or does it turn against it?
There is one bolt that is reverse thread I point it out in the video, it’s one of the timing gears in it. All the other bolts are normal thread.
Is there anything or any bolt that covers the top middle hole pulley side between the fill and drain plug holes? I'm left with nothing plugging it and I don't see what I'm supposed to use there didn't see it on the pdf of sprintex instruction manual either at least not yet
Just don't want to fill and and install without knowing for sure
Last part of the video
Give me a time stamp and I’ll take a look, it may be where the belt tensioner bolts to it
The rotor bolt for the big gear pushes onto the coupling shaft below the gear?
The outer most part of the gear is used for timing the blower, it’s attached by the Allen screws
@@DrSidewayZ Hey boss, sorry to bother you. I'm stuck. From what I understand, the small driven gear is left handed thread and held down by the bolt. Using a pin wrench to hold the small gear down while spinning the bolt clockwise won't work, because holding the gear won't stop the rotor from turning. Do I keep both gears in place and hold the opposite bolt down?
And now I understand even more why you had spent so much time at the end. When you also used the pin wrench the rotor spun changing the screw alignment with the big gear. There is no timing. Only matching bolt holes. Still.. How did you remove the bolt the first time?
Awesome, I am servicing my S5-210 atm too. I am just about to remove the gears to access the front bearings. Two questions if you don't mind. What did you apply to the bearing seals and did you have any torque specifications? Thanks!!!
No sweat, I used dielectric grease to lube them to prevent damage on assembly, assembling them dry would cause damage to the sealing lips, unfortunately torque specs are not published, I ultimately attempted to duplicate the torque it took to break them free, it’s not ideal but unfortunately sprintex openly refuses to respond to calls and emails
@@DrSidewayZ I hear you on that. I'll try to call again to see if I can get any numbers. Thanks for sharing your work. Extremely helpful! I'm tempted to video my work as well to help others out as well.
I love my Sprintex..in my built 300+ r53 it's putting down 23psi !!!!
That’s awesome! Do you have a link to any videos? I’d love to check it out!!