Thanks for sharing what you learned. I have no doubt that will definitely save someone with an engine build goal of 700 hp or so from sinking the money into billet rods they may not need. I enjoy that you wanted to build something different that people said wouldn't work and were able to do things differently to allow for that and still made 1300 hp with it and kept it together a very long time. And I'm sure you always remind Will that you do actually daily drive the truck. Definitely good inspiration for the guys out there looking to build a more budget friendly, fun street truck that can still lay down some serious power.
Great job Josh, interesting debriefing on the 6.GR8!!! I'm liking that you guys are getting into some CR builds and info as a LOT of us drive them on a daily basis and are interested in upgrades and how far they can go. As always keep up the good work and thanks again for the interesting and informative videos !!!
Got to love the old 12v rods. Ran a very similar build with some 12v rods with arp bolts in my CR. Truck never made it to dyno on last set up but s363/s483 with 150% overs and trap speeds close to 120mph they held it down like a champ.
That engine's been through something. Thank you for showing us the aftermath. Really get to see the weakest links when making big power. Served its purpose well
grate details on the hole engine. this hole channel is grate.if you ever make it out to the crappy state of PA I will make the trip to see your team run.
Man I appreciate the break down on your build but unfortunately for any of us horsepower junkies on a budget we push parts well past they're breaking point and are ether smiling or cussing at the end result. Keep up the good work
@power driven diesel Watching this a year after. The emulsified water in the oil flashes to steam when it's pumped into the hydrodynamic wedge between rotating parts, due to operating temp and the increase in pressure. This steam defeats the adhesion of the lube, allowing the metal parts to spontaneously adhere, and then rotation rips the new spot weld apart. Sometimes the flakes wash out and don't cut the bearing babbitt down, sometimes they create a high spot that continues to lathe the bearing surface until there's a groove, or no babbitt left. I need to put threaded plugs in mine. You never touched on a pressure source in the cooling system, but I'm going to guess the high rpm shifts played a part in both the thrust surface failure (I'm curious about the torque converter clearance?) and the freeze plugs. I'm theorizing there's a pressure spike when the impeller slows down on a shift, but I'm not sure how this cooling system was set up.
Im glad there are Cummins videos out there i have seen a lot of Duramax videos out there. I was thinking about making a TH-cam video about my 96 12 valve Dodge truck rebuild step by step
Have you thought about using a FPT 6.7 crank? It would need machine work to change the rear of crank bit longer throw I believe than the stock crank you are running.
Your eyes dazzled me to the end of the video. I lost interest in the video but your dreamy looks kept me going to the end!😂 just kidding, great video. I do wish I had your devilish good looks, my wife might show more interest in me. 😂👍
Wow man. You definitely did your homework when you build that girl. But how awesome was it that if you would have run it three seconds more you would have a atomic bomb. But I would not feel bad about what you have build. Great job guys like always.
I'm not following your cause and effect. It seems to me that crank walk caused rods to bend and the pistons to scuff. I don't think your rods bent in that way due to power, yes power is what provided the force, but it was the crank walk that created an offset.
I just bought a set of shot peened 12V rods from haisley. I’m looking for 750 HP with compounds. Maybe 900 if I get crazy. Should I suck it up and run billet? I do have 14mm studs and a girdle. What kind of ring gaps did you run on this? Mine is a Ppump 12V
You might want to look into a coolant pressure bypass for your engine. Excessive coolant pressure may have caused the freeze plug to pop, and you probably are losing hp driving the pump when racing.
i have an issue with my truck if anybody knows the answer. i had an issue with a misfire and excessive white smoke. i suspected a bad injector. i removed the valve cover and found that on cylinder 1, the intake valves push rod was bent which i believe is from somebody tightening down the rocker arm too much. and the exhaust valve rocker has a lot of play will move back and for a lot. i went ahead and got a new push rod and when i sit the push rod in the seat it sits up higher than all the other push rods.
Given how the rods appear to be bent almost uniformly the same amount and in the same direction, I would tend to believe that the thrust bearing let go and THEN the crank walked forward or back in the block under max power to cause the rods to bend. All of the failure of the motor might be traced to that broken thrust bearing. I would focus a lot more attention at the bearings and at the main caps to make sure that they don't walk again, although the broken thrust bearing might be attributed to the convertor ballooning under full power. I think a girdle at this point would be a very good investment. I wonder if it would be possible to machine in a second thrust bearing to insure that it doesn't happen again, and possibly look at upgrading to a better convertor.
@@horsetorquesdiesel My comments are not meant to be critical of what you are doing. I am just pointing some things out that you might want to think about - you can take them or leave them if you choose. If a crank moves in relation to the cylinder centerline, when a lot of torque is supplied - the rods will bend in two different directions, creating an S or Z shape in the rod. Again, look at the rods - they ALL are bent in exactly the same S shape and in the same direction. If only one or two of the rods were bent, I would be looking for a bearing failure or incorrect installation - but the issue is that ALL of the rods were bent in the same way. Because of this, you can point directly to a crank issue, because it is connected to all of the rods and affected the rods the same way. I don't expect that you believe just me - you should talk with a performance gas engine builder, and ask him how the rods bend under high HP when there is a thrust bearing failure. Again - I am trying to help you, not be critical of you. The convertor is often a source of thrust bearing failures, I just mentioned it in case there was a potential problem. I couldn't tell what direction the crank shifted in the block, so I just threw that suggestion about the convertor in there - it would be one of the first things I would check for if I had a similar issue in any gas or diesel motor I was working on.
I know it was probably a good thing that the freeze plug popped out or you wouldn't have caught it until you spun a bearing, but why aren't your engines machined for screw in freeze plugs with o-rings?
Educated guess?? in Sniper terms they call that a SWAG. Scientific Wild ass guess. lol meaning you know the math you know the effects of changes but you don't have the time or the ability to test
Cool video , like how you broke everything down and gave us all the details .
Thanks for sharing what you learned. I have no doubt that will definitely save someone with an engine build goal of 700 hp or so from sinking the money into billet rods they may not need. I enjoy that you wanted to build something different that people said wouldn't work and were able to do things differently to allow for that and still made 1300 hp with it and kept it together a very long time. And I'm sure you always remind Will that you do actually daily drive the truck. Definitely good inspiration for the guys out there looking to build a more budget friendly, fun street truck that can still lay down some serious power.
Loving these videos!! Can't wait to see the rebuild!!
Great job Josh, interesting debriefing on the 6.GR8!!! I'm liking that you guys are getting into some CR builds and info as a LOT of us drive them on a daily basis and are interested in upgrades and how far they can go. As always keep up the good work and thanks again for the interesting and informative videos !!!
" Because I love dumping money into things that make no sense financially..." get out of my head.
Got to love the old 12v rods. Ran a very similar build with some 12v rods with arp bolts in my CR. Truck never made it to dyno on last set up but s363/s483 with 150% overs and trap speeds close to 120mph they held it down like a champ.
@@pddofficial Shit happends. everytime I made a pass with it I was praying it held together.
You can trap 120 pretty easy on stock rods. I did it with a 363/480 setup and 100% overs consistently
The deep dive into the actual failure modes is fantastic.
Dropping some knowledge, real world experiences. Always putting work. Im glad i called the other week to get ring gap advice.
Great video. This is why i like what you guy's do. You find the problem and come up with a better solution . Keep up the great work .
That engine's been through something. Thank you for showing us the aftermath. Really get to see the weakest links when making big power. Served its purpose well
grate details on the hole engine. this hole channel is grate.if you ever make it out to the crappy state of PA I will make the trip to see your team run.
Love your videos really like how you guys lay things out
Really hope we get to see your new build! Can't wait to follow along!
Love seeing the truck man, thanks for posting!
Thanks for the update. I hope the big plans for next year include Drag week.
Great build overall. Definitely go with a serious girdle. It will dramatically reduce flex in the mains... Looking forward to more!
Bull Dozer just going to 14mm mains no sense in a girdle the block will give long before then.
Hell ya find out what the parts can handle. Good job!
Man I appreciate the break down on your build but unfortunately for any of us horsepower junkies on a budget we push parts well past they're breaking point and are ether smiling or cussing at the end result. Keep up the good work
Kevin Collins I remember the day I blew up the Windsor in my mustang. I laughed on the tow truck ride back to the house.
Awesome video Josh really great content i for one like the really in depth analysis of what went wrong i can't wait for the next chapter 🙋♂️🇬🇧
Great video, thanks Josh
You bet
@power driven diesel Watching this a year after. The emulsified water in the oil flashes to steam when it's pumped into the hydrodynamic wedge between rotating parts, due to operating temp and the increase in pressure. This steam defeats the adhesion of the lube, allowing the metal parts to spontaneously adhere, and then rotation rips the new spot weld apart. Sometimes the flakes wash out and don't cut the bearing babbitt down, sometimes they create a high spot that continues to lathe the bearing surface until there's a groove, or no babbitt left.
I need to put threaded plugs in mine. You never touched on a pressure source in the cooling system, but I'm going to guess the high rpm shifts played a part in both the thrust surface failure (I'm curious about the torque converter clearance?) and the freeze plugs.
I'm theorizing there's a pressure spike when the impeller slows down on a shift, but I'm not sure how this cooling system was set up.
thanks Josh
Billet rod 6.gr8s with qsb pistons is where its at josh!
Looking forward to the rebuild!!!
Im glad there are Cummins videos out there i have seen a lot of Duramax videos out there. I was thinking about making a TH-cam video about my 96 12 valve Dodge truck rebuild step by step
Use some strong Sodium Hydroxide to dissolve the Aluminum transfer on the cylinder walls (caustic solution).
Maybe I missed it in the video, was this motor bored 20 over, or did it have 20 over sleeves
Awesome update on your engine
Great video bud!! Very informative and love the commentary! Keep them coming!
Another awesome video. Man I want a 1000hp+ street truck so bad lol
Have you thought about using a FPT 6.7 crank? It would need machine work to change the rear of crank bit longer throw I believe than the stock crank you are running.
Love the details.
Your eyes dazzled me to the end of the video. I lost interest in the video but your dreamy looks kept me going to the end!😂 just kidding, great video. I do wish I had your devilish good looks, my wife might show more interest in me. 😂👍
Wow man. You definitely did your homework when you build that girl. But how awesome was it that if you would have run it three seconds more you would have a atomic bomb. But I would not feel bad about what you have build. Great job guys like always.
So the entire bottom end was the problem! You know you gave it all it had when you have a broken parts list like that. 👍
If the freez plug haddent poped ,what do you think would have been the catastrophic failure? Main bearings , finished off a rod, piston, cylinder wall
David Drescher rods for sure
I'm not following your cause and effect. It seems to me that crank walk caused rods to bend and the pistons to scuff. I don't think your rods bent in that way due to power, yes power is what provided the force, but it was the crank walk that created an offset.
makes sense , misalign the crank 1/8 inch under that pressure=scuffed pistons, bent rods
I just bought a set of shot peened 12V rods from haisley. I’m looking for 750 HP with compounds. Maybe 900 if I get crazy. Should I suck it up and run billet? I do have 14mm studs and a girdle. What kind of ring gaps did you run on this? Mine is a Ppump 12V
You better get some money from this video because it’s about to go viral
Great video and info.
What was the piston to wall clearance and ring gap you used?
You might want to look into a coolant pressure bypass for your engine. Excessive coolant pressure may have caused the freeze plug to pop, and you probably are losing hp driving the pump when racing.
wacko wacko it had a bypass and a clipped water pump...
I would trust 12v rods to 1300hp or 2000ft-lb torque unless you spray it then all bets are off.
Its been 3 months, are you done yet? lol.... Bring on the videos!!!
Didn't that happen to Turba Tom, the freeze plug.
Yes, He clipped a water pump fin in addition to a fleece bypass.
Yes he did
More than 3 times stock hp and tourque... she did good😁
What is your new block gonna be?
PowerDrivenDiesel OEM style block?
How do you shorten the rods 🤷🏻♂️
PowerDrivenDiesel yeah saw that later 😢
i have an issue with my truck if anybody knows the answer. i had an issue with a misfire and excessive white smoke. i suspected a bad injector. i removed the valve cover and found that on cylinder 1, the intake valves push rod was bent which i believe is from somebody tightening down the rocker arm too much. and the exhaust valve rocker has a lot of play will move back and for a lot. i went ahead and got a new push rod and when i sit the push rod in the seat it sits up higher than all the other push rods.
it is a 2003 Dodge Ram 3500 with a 5.9 24 valve cummins
i am doing the work myself but am on a budget and this is my only vehicle. wanting to get by with what i can but also want to fix it correctly
Was it that laggy when it wasn’t hurt??
Megabass Benny Lippo not nearly as bad as it is now
Good info
What were your ring clearances set to?
PowerDrivenDiesel well it’s nice to see the PTW was tighter and wasn’t the issue. 👍
Remember westen champlin?
Flex tape 👊🏻💪🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸
110% 👍
Given how the rods appear to be bent almost uniformly the same amount and in the same direction, I would tend to believe that the thrust bearing let go and THEN the crank walked forward or back in the block under max power to cause the rods to bend. All of the failure of the motor might be traced to that broken thrust bearing. I would focus a lot more attention at the bearings and at the main caps to make sure that they don't walk again, although the broken thrust bearing might be attributed to the convertor ballooning under full power. I think a girdle at this point would be a very good investment. I wonder if it would be possible to machine in a second thrust bearing to insure that it doesn't happen again, and possibly look at upgrading to a better convertor.
wacko wacko rods are bent in 2 different directions. Converter is not ballooned and is a quad disc billet DPC unit.
Also it broke the front of the bearing from the crank pushing backwards not forwards.
@@horsetorquesdiesel My comments are not meant to be critical of what you are doing. I am just pointing some things out that you might want to think about - you can take them or leave them if you choose. If a crank moves in relation to the cylinder centerline, when a lot of torque is supplied - the rods will bend in two different directions, creating an S or Z shape in the rod. Again, look at the rods - they ALL are bent in exactly the same S shape and in the same direction. If only one or two of the rods were bent, I would be looking for a bearing failure or incorrect installation - but the issue is that ALL of the rods were bent in the same way. Because of this, you can point directly to a crank issue, because it is connected to all of the rods and affected the rods the same way. I don't expect that you believe just me - you should talk with a performance gas engine builder, and ask him how the rods bend under high HP when there is a thrust bearing failure. Again - I am trying to help you, not be critical of you. The convertor is often a source of thrust bearing failures, I just mentioned it in case there was a potential problem. I couldn't tell what direction the crank shifted in the block, so I just threw that suggestion about the convertor in there - it would be one of the first things I would check for if I had a similar issue in any gas or diesel motor I was working on.
Love sinking money into bad financial things
I know it was probably a good thing that the freeze plug popped out or you wouldn't have caught it until you spun a bearing, but why aren't your engines machined for screw in freeze plugs with o-rings?
Junior couldn’t afford it at the time when I built it so I clipped the pump and had a bypass put on.
Cool I was 1000th like
.20 over 6.7 block... I guess thats why you say its a 6.8 ? :)
👍🏻
Magne-flux it and then tell us what it looks like.
Educated guess?? in Sniper terms they call that a SWAG.
Scientific Wild ass guess.
lol meaning you know the math you know the effects of changes but you don't have the time or the ability to test
6.Blow
6.Fate