I'm impressed and just learned something new. Seems to the simplest way to do it, outside of cutting that area out and replacing the drywall. Yeah, I like your way. Keep that good content coming.
Man, this is the kind of guy I would want to fix my house. Very precise and particular. If you could see what the builder did to our house, you would shake your head in disbelief.
Thanks for sharing. I've been a builder for 30 plus years and I enjoy watching everyone's different technics, etc. It looks great. One thing I would mention to you viewers is to MAKE SURE you are using a vacuum with a HEPA filter so you won't have drywall dust everywhere. That's a mistake you only want to make once. Lol. You should be able to put different tips in you hopper also to make different size texture for that or knockdown, etc. Just a few ideas and don't want anyone having to wipe down every surface in the house almost. Thanks again for a great video and I really enjoy watching people that take pride in their work. 👍
@@rodgerq Wow, I always wear at LEAST a N95 almost anytime I work. And I make sure I have fans for ventilation as exhaust to take it all out a window. Be careful!
I love it; I actually used this technique in my home years ago and men told me it was wrong. I said that it looks better so I'm going to finish it this way. One thing that I did wrong because I had never done construction work before was I waited for it to dry before taking the tape off and it did pull some of my work off so I just filled that in with joint compound and finished my job. My job was done before home computers were out and common place. But even the construction worker who saw me doing this job and then saw my final result told me how nice it looked and that he was going to use it, as well. Thank you so much for your video; it gives me confidence as I'm fixing up our new place. I'm in my 60's now and will need help but they've got to follow my lead. Anyway, my help isn't experienced that much. Mainly need the help for the muscle work. I will call in professionals for things that I'm not confident with, though. I'm not that confident. LOL, Thanks again.
Thank you so much for the meaningful comment! Yes there are many ways to do things especially cosmetic work. Not everyone is going to agree with a certain technique and yes they might be right on it being easier to do one way than other, but at the end of the day it’s what’s best for your situation and what you think looks best. I did learned about the tape thing the hard way too when I use to do insulation work, to always take off the tape while everting is still wet. Thank you again for the meaningful comment and I wish you the best on your future renovations! Thank you and stay Safe! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for sharing. My dad wouldn't let me use any tools growing up. Now as a grown women I am so thankful for TH-cam as it helps me become more independent.
~5:23 mark, always clean off the excess mud with each pass, this will help prevent those lines being created at the end of your spatula/knife, requiring another pass and losing more mud. It also will help cut down on the sanding. Great video, keep ‘‘em coming!
I caulked my gaps. Winter rolled around and the humidity changed caused the caulk to crack. Not using caulk again and going with this method instead. I don't have textured walls so it will be much easier. Thanks for the tip!
You just turned a 30 sec paint touch up into an hours long drywall repair requiring hard messy sanding, texturing and repainting. Just mask off the trim and paint the excess caulk to match the wall color it will keep the sight lines for both the wall and the trim looking great. We only have a finite amount of time on this earth, don’t waste it.
Also, you just created a very noticeable texture mismatch for that entire wall section, if you are gonna go to that much effort you should skim the whole wall and retexture the whole wall, that texture mismatch in my opinion is way more noticeable than the previous 1/8 inch gap.
@@madusimo1 Why be a dick? He did put this video on here for your knowledge wether you agree or not, you shouldn’t be expressing your disagreements so rudely!
In total agreement here. When he showed the picture of what caulking the gap looked like, my first reaction was, "it's really okay. Just paint the wall."
Those that comment that he spent too much time and effort on this small repair do not fully understand the mindset. It's like working on art. Will not be satisfied until is completed to the artist's satisfaction.
Personally, I just take the trim off and get it out of the way. Mud the entire void including behind where the trim goes, and then texture it. Depending on the size of the wall, i’d either just overlap it onto the previous texture about two feet or just re-texture the entire wall. Also, after the mud and texture dry, I like to throw a little rx-35 to seal and prime it for paint, otherwise that mud will just absorb your fresh paint and will look different then the rest of the wall. The trim too could end up sucking up some of the moisture from the mud and become ruined. IMO, if you just put mud above the trim and whatever falls behind it, you’re just creating another problem to fix later on down the road if you ever decide to change the look or size of your baseboard trim.
Thank for you’re advice! Yes I do agree you can just take off the whole trim, but not everyone has that option, but I do appreciate your knowledge and advice! 🙏🏽
I understand your idea. My initial thoughts are the touch up sprayed wall sticks out like a soar thumb even though you did a close up shot it really sticks outs to my eyes. Maybe an untextured wall and you could get by. Another issue is if you ever need to remove/replace that piece of trim. you will have completely repair the wall again and your stuck with using the same height or taller trim piece in the future. I would have removed the trim piece and repaired the wall lower to the floor. I prefer 2 other options. The reason the caulked results looked bad is because it was caulked up the wall a little. maybe used a finger to push it the void and it ended up cupping the caulk job. Try removing the caulk and use painters tape to the the fill in that small gab. You may need to reapply if it shrinks to much. I prefer cut to the back of the trim piece every quarter inch in the area that has the void to allow the trim piece to conform the that slight gap. These issues arise because the sheetrock/plasterboard contractors should have feathered the outside corners a minimum of 24 inches.
As a diy homeowner I always enjoy seeing techniques that expand my skill set. ...I also am a bit of a perfectionist so gaps like that (which I have currently) bother me and filling with caulk is not the answer~Thank you!
Im happy I was able to help! Yes I agree! There is a time and place for caulk, this is one I learned is not one of them, especially for big gaps like these. Thank you for taking your time to watch and comment 🙏🏽😊!
I use loctite adhesive to get rid of the gap. It doesn't shrink like caulk and it actually grips the baseboards or trim to the wall. Easy to apply and takes literally 2 minutes to fix.
For texture patches. Try spraying some test spots on some extra masking/plastic. Getting the mix right is the most important for blending patches then just play with your orifice size and air pressure. For patches alot of times I'll do two coats. One to just initially fill the patch and a second to cover the entire wall/ceiling to blend everything together. Definitely takes some practice 👍
Brilliant video of something that's a common problem, but nobody seems to address. 👏 I like your clear and concise explanation of the options available, but the best solution to tackling the problem. ✨
I have some larger gaps between the baseboards and floor tile. Your videos are great!! Keep the content going, easy to understand. Thanks!👍🏽 Just found your other video explaining this. 👍🏽
Good fix!😁👍 I deal with this alot also. As another alternative l generally check the other side of the wall as this is a framing issue, if the other side is open you can shim out between the stud and the back of the drywall & that will bring the drywall & baseboards together nicely. If it's not open on the back side l will pop the piece off and loosen the bottom drywall screws and lever and shim from the bottom keeping all my work below the baseboard level as to not be seen after reinstalling the piece.This method has not failed me in over 20 years of renos & restorations. Hope this helps & that l explained that well enough. Happy New years @Everyone 😁
Unfortunately most customers don't want to pay for additional work when they're already paying a 10-15k flooring remodel throughout the whole house. Sometimes you just have to shove some cardboard in the crack and caulk it 🤷🏼♂️ I wish customers had unlimited budgets to things the right way, but I've found more often than not, they don't.
I was looking for a quick fix and I found a two day project in this video. This might be a good fix if it's the only section in your entire house that's messed up, and you're really good with mud. I can tell more of a difference with patch job as i could the caulk lol
The only 2 suggestions I can give is that first of all the original texture looks like it’s knock off texture. I could be wrong. But that would have made it match better if you did knock off. The other thing is the tip on your caulking was way to large. You had way to much access to clean up. Other than that I did actually learn something here and I appreciate this video. Thank you.
The reason there's a gab in the baseboard is because the drywallers used metal cornerbead which flares out the outside corner. Better to use mud on bead which lays flat against the walls.
Adjust your texter sprayer to 50 psi. medium tip. Adjust trigger to full open. Hold gun approximately 24 inches from wall. That would give you a real close matching texter with that gun. Test on a piece of card board first.
As a professional finisher must guys don't take into account of the void you will always have at the corners of walls from the build up to cover corner bead .... I always mud out that void about 2 ft up the wall to the base area so wen its time for finish carpentry you have no issues jus install and go
Absolutely a ridiculous amount of work for such a minor imperfection that the eye will never catch if caulked and painted properly. The reality is 90 percent of people will never get the mud/texture to blend enough to be less noticeable than properly caulking and painting. Life’s too short! You did a nice job though!
This is a great method, only question I have is why not use just the 10" knife. It could of been 1 or 2 swipes and cut your edges and done. Not knocking you just wondering the idea behind it.
Take your fingers and pinch the knife edge for a depth guide and go horizontal with the knife and use the baseboard to guide your fingers ..after loading the wall with mud. Perfect reveal every time.
I am about to caulk by baseboards and would like to know your opinion on DAP Alex Plus? Can you share with me why DAP extreme stretch over Alex Plus? I bought the Alex plus and dunno if I should refund it and get your recommended one
okay, as for a diy'er, this is a decent video if you don't want to rip trim off. But 99% of the time I'm taking the trim off. Also, anytime you're adding compound to an already textured wall, always use a wet sponge and feather the edges. I usually do that when it's about halfway dry. I've always found doing it when it's wet I mess it up more. Everyone is different, that's my way. The texture that was on the wall, vs the texture you added are different. So in that case, I would've just taken a scraper, knocked all the texture off, and retextured the whole wall. You've got a thick texture vs a thin orange peel. Good work, but that's going to be an eye catcher.
@@FixThisHouse no problem man. I always like to see different techniques. i just have a rule of thumb, if I'm putting texture on the wall, i never do a small spot. You'll ALWAYS see where you fixed it. you're probably going to paint that whole wall anyways, I would've just textured the whole thing. An hour of work saves a lifetime of headaches. I'm not pro by any means. But i do this stuff quite a bit.
While this is the proper way, I’m sure, what about just filling the gap with joint compound instead of going all the way up the wall? Filling the gap with the joint compound, then caulking before painting. Especially if the walls are already painted?? Because the gap on my already painted wall is almost 18” long
Hi! It’s up to you and how willing you are to correct the problem. You can pull all baseboards out and resurface the walls and texture. Or you can go the short route and caulk the gap if the gaps are not that big. Personally I would only do the obvious ones for resurface and the rest caulking 🙏🏽
Thanks for sharing this video. I bought a house that's mid 1950s the baseboard is set behind the floor and I do have some walls that are a bit off so this will be perfect for the situation I'm in as I don't want to remove the baseboard.
I’m glad I could be of help! I’m very glad you were able to use this option. I know some may say why didn’t you just remove the whole baseboard then fill? Not everyone has that option and this is just another way to fix those gaps. 🙏🏽😊 thank you so much for watching!
Leave the tape off so you know exactly what to fill. You can sand or wipe anything off the baseboard later. That’s what you get for guys cheating on filling mud on the corner bead properly
Lot of work for a temporary fix. Proper way is to use foam spray fill the gap then just caulk along the top easy as that, this way will just crack again due to movement and flex and any knocks against the base board plus any shrinking of the caulk will just fall back down the gap.
@@ittybitty_caribou8697 clue is in the name expanding foam spray, caulk is a fine filler that you will then put on top after you cut foam back and sanded. Personally I won't use caulk I would use a different filler like Powder one that you mix with water as the caulk is to fine in my opinion.
Man, I would just caulk it personally (siliconized acrylic to stretch & paint). As long as baseboard still attached well and not pulling off. I hate mud work + texturing, that is a lot of time and labor for a small defect, and the tools to do it right let alone the experience. It's one of those things you'll hardly notice unless you're looking for it or know after caulking.
When your painting the wall I always paint to the back edge of the top of the base. So if the caulk gap is off as it always is you can't notice thicker caulk.
to be honest, for me at least, the time to benefit ratio is not worth it. I’d just use some 2 part filler, caulk and then pain it so the wall and baseboard lines are even. Baseboards are usually seen from 5-6ft away which hides minor imperfections
Caulking would hav been fine. All that work for a little gap. Who walks around and inspects your baseboards? Houses move thru the years, are you going to be remudding your walls just for gaps.?
Hi! Just an option, especially if you have areas that show these areas out in the open. As you saw on the video I had caulking on one wall and it just doesn’t look as good as if you took the time to even out the wall.
I rather put caulking looks good rather than wasting all that time and doing all that work and wasting all that money and no one is going to be looking at the ground most of the time plus im sure theres more defects on the eye level and also the texture of the wall eventually ends up looking worser with a patch on it since ill be really hard to match it even if youre a proffesional at it i would rather have a gap where its hard to be seen than a patch that will get your eye attention but again thats just me and im into art and work in construction.
My contractor installed, skimmed and sanded the walls. And was going to paint it, I stopped them. The gaps everywhere. Just checked places where is going to be baseboards, vents, electric plates, corners. Hate this work. Decided to straight this places with mud to minimize gaps, just use some longer screed, DIY. Annoying work, I want to demolish all walls and do it right, but my husband don't let me do it, he doesn't care if the gaps around. As for me it looks like a cheap finish work.
I'm impressed and just learned something new. Seems to the simplest way to do it, outside of cutting that area out and replacing the drywall. Yeah, I like your way. Keep that good content coming.
Thank you 🙏🏽 so much!
A quicker fix, albeit not as good as yours, is to paint the filler caulk the same color as the wall. It instantly becomes 80 percent less visible.
Man, this is the kind of guy I would want to fix my house. Very precise and particular. If you could see what the builder did to our house, you would shake your head in disbelief.
Thanks for sharing. I've been a builder for 30 plus years and I enjoy watching everyone's different technics, etc. It looks great. One thing I would mention to you viewers is to MAKE SURE you are using a vacuum with a HEPA filter so you won't have drywall dust everywhere. That's a mistake you only want to make once. Lol. You should be able to put different tips in you hopper also to make different size texture for that or knockdown, etc. Just a few ideas and don't want anyone having to wipe down every surface in the house almost. Thanks again for a great video and I really enjoy watching people that take pride in their work. 👍
Thank you so much for the love and support and the tips you share with us! 🙏🏽😊
I gave myself quite a severe chest infection sanding a ceiling without a mask or extraction.
I'm a woman. I've had many contractors lie to me so I started watching TH-cam videos and learned sure enough they were lying!!!!!
@@rodgerq Wow, I always wear at LEAST a N95 almost anytime I work. And I make sure I have fans for ventilation as exhaust to take it all out a window. Be careful!
I love it; I actually used this technique in my home years ago and men told me it was wrong. I said that it looks better so I'm going to finish it this way. One thing that I did wrong because I had never done construction work before was I waited for it to dry before taking the tape off and it did pull some of my work off so I just filled that in with joint compound and finished my job. My job was done before home computers were out and common place. But even the construction worker who saw me doing this job and then saw my final result told me how nice it looked and that he was going to use it, as well.
Thank you so much for your video; it gives me confidence as I'm fixing up our new place. I'm in my 60's now and will need help but they've got to follow my lead. Anyway, my help isn't experienced that much. Mainly need the help for the muscle work. I will call in professionals for things that I'm not confident with, though. I'm not that confident. LOL, Thanks again.
Thank you so much for the meaningful comment! Yes there are many ways to do things especially cosmetic work. Not everyone is going to agree with a certain technique and yes they might be right on it being easier to do one way than other, but at the end of the day it’s what’s best for your situation and what you think looks best. I did learned about the tape thing the hard way too when I use to do insulation work, to always take off the tape while everting is still wet. Thank you again for the meaningful comment and I wish you the best on your future renovations! Thank you and stay Safe! 🙏🏽😊
Thank you for sharing. My dad wouldn't let me use any tools growing up. Now as a grown women I am so thankful for TH-cam as it helps me become more independent.
Grown woman?
~5:23 mark, always clean off the excess mud with each pass, this will help prevent those lines being created at the end of your spatula/knife, requiring another pass and losing more mud. It also will help cut down on the sanding. Great video, keep ‘‘em coming!
I caulked my gaps. Winter rolled around and the humidity changed caused the caulk to crack. Not using caulk again and going with this method instead. I don't have textured walls so it will be much easier. Thanks for the tip!
Lucky you don't have textured walls!
You just turned a 30 sec paint touch up into an hours long drywall repair requiring hard messy sanding, texturing and repainting. Just mask off the trim and paint the excess caulk to match the wall color it will keep the sight lines for both the wall and the trim looking great. We only have a finite amount of time on this earth, don’t waste it.
Also, you just created a very noticeable texture mismatch for that entire wall section, if you are gonna go to that much effort you should skim the whole wall and retexture the whole wall, that texture mismatch in my opinion is way more noticeable than the previous 1/8 inch gap.
Texture is gross too
@@madusimo1 Two know it alls tag teaming someone giving free advise on the internet. Cheers guys.
@@madusimo1 Why be a dick? He did put this video on here for your knowledge wether you agree or not, you shouldn’t be expressing your disagreements so rudely!
In total agreement here. When he showed the picture of what caulking the gap looked like, my first reaction was, "it's really okay. Just paint the wall."
Those that comment that he spent too much time and effort on this small repair do not fully understand the mindset. It's like working on art. Will not be satisfied until is completed to the artist's satisfaction.
Thank you for seeing the vision! 🙏🏽😊♥️
Personally, I just take the trim off and get it out of the way. Mud the entire void including behind where the trim goes, and then texture it. Depending on the size of the wall, i’d either just overlap it onto the previous texture about two feet or just re-texture the entire wall. Also, after the mud and texture dry, I like to throw a little rx-35 to seal and prime it for paint, otherwise that mud will just absorb your fresh paint and will look different then the rest of the wall. The trim too could end up sucking up some of the moisture from the mud and become ruined.
IMO, if you just put mud above the trim and whatever falls behind it, you’re just creating another problem to fix later on down the road if you ever decide to change the look or size of your baseboard trim.
Thank for you’re advice! Yes I do agree you can just take off the whole trim, but not everyone has that option, but I do appreciate your knowledge and advice! 🙏🏽
You could always use a paint and primer all in one if you're lazy like I am lol
Nice technique. By the way, instead of sanding the compound you can use a moist sponge, I found that it works well without all the dust.
i've felt the sponge doesnt offer the control of material removal that a sanding pad does.
I understand your idea. My initial thoughts are the touch up sprayed wall sticks out like a soar thumb even though you did a close up shot it really sticks outs to my eyes. Maybe an untextured wall and you could get by. Another issue is if you ever need to remove/replace that piece of trim. you will have completely repair the wall again and your stuck with using the same height or taller trim piece in the future. I would have removed the trim piece and repaired the wall lower to the floor. I prefer 2 other options. The reason the caulked results looked bad is because it was caulked up the wall a little. maybe used a finger to push it the void and it ended up cupping the caulk job. Try removing the caulk and use painters tape to the the fill in that small gab. You may need to reapply if it shrinks to much. I prefer cut to the back of the trim piece every quarter inch in the area that has the void to allow the trim piece to conform the that slight gap. These issues arise because the sheetrock/plasterboard contractors should have feathered the outside corners a minimum of 24 inches.
As a diy homeowner I always enjoy seeing techniques that expand my skill set. ...I also am a bit of a perfectionist so gaps like that (which I have currently) bother me and filling with caulk is not the answer~Thank you!
Im happy I was able to help! Yes I agree! There is a time and place for caulk, this is one I learned is not one of them, especially for big gaps like these. Thank you for taking your time to watch and comment 🙏🏽😊!
I use loctite adhesive to get rid of the gap. It doesn't shrink like caulk and it actually grips the baseboards or trim to the wall. Easy to apply and takes literally 2 minutes to fix.
For texture patches. Try spraying some test spots on some extra masking/plastic. Getting the mix right is the most important for blending patches then just play with your orifice size and air pressure. For patches alot of times I'll do two coats. One to just initially fill the patch and a second to cover the entire wall/ceiling to blend everything together. Definitely takes some practice 👍
Brilliant video of something that's a common problem, but nobody seems to address. 👏
I like your clear and concise explanation of the options available, but the best solution to tackling the problem. ✨
I have some larger gaps between the baseboards and floor tile. Your videos are great!! Keep the content going, easy to understand. Thanks!👍🏽 Just found your other video explaining this. 👍🏽
My answer to your video question... caulk it and paint it to look like it's level... very easy
Good fix!😁👍
I deal with this alot also.
As another alternative l generally check the other side of the wall as this is a framing issue, if the other side is open you can shim out between the stud and the back of the drywall & that will bring the drywall & baseboards together nicely.
If it's not open on the back side l will pop the piece off and loosen the bottom drywall screws and lever and shim from the bottom keeping all my work below the baseboard level as to not be seen after reinstalling the piece.This method has not failed me in over 20 years of renos & restorations.
Hope this helps & that l explained that well enough.
Happy New years @Everyone 😁
Unfortunately most customers don't want to pay for additional work when they're already paying a 10-15k flooring remodel throughout the whole house. Sometimes you just have to shove some cardboard in the crack and caulk it 🤷🏼♂️ I wish customers had unlimited budgets to things the right way, but I've found more often than not, they don't.
I can see that 👍
Yeah. 90% of my customers would just want it caulked.
I was looking for a quick fix and I found a two day project in this video. This might be a good fix if it's the only section in your entire house that's messed up, and you're really good with mud. I can tell more of a difference with patch job as i could the caulk lol
Thank you ! I hate comment's bashing when they can simply do it their way its more ways to do things
i have to fix some holes in the wall, I could never make it uniform. but seeing your example was awesome! Just have to take it slow and finesse it.
i am a new owners, thanks for showing us DIY projects, you the best
Does this technique create crack from time past?
I am so glad you fixed the wall and not moneyed with another way.
Thank You 🙏🏽! Yes it was very easy!
This is a video for a perfectionist. Caulking is probably the easiest way though, good enough for me.
The only 2 suggestions I can give is that first of all the original texture looks like it’s knock off texture. I could be wrong. But that would have made it match better if you did knock off. The other thing is the tip on your caulking was way to large. You had way to much access to clean up. Other than that I did actually learn something here and I appreciate this video. Thank you.
The reason there's a gab in the baseboard is because the drywallers used metal cornerbead which flares out the outside corner. Better to use mud on bead which lays flat against the walls.
Thank you for the information 🙏🏽👍🏽😊!
Metal bead is fine. They just didn’t mud well enough.
Adjust your texter sprayer to 50 psi. medium tip. Adjust trigger to full open. Hold gun approximately 24 inches from wall. That would give you a real close matching texter with that gun. Test on a piece of card board first.
As a professional finisher must guys don't take into account of the void you will always have at the corners of walls from the build up to cover corner bead .... I always mud out that void about 2 ft up the wall to the base area so wen its time for finish carpentry you have no issues jus install and go
Absolutely a ridiculous amount of work for such a minor imperfection that the eye will never catch if caulked and painted properly. The reality is 90 percent of people will never get the mud/texture to blend enough to be less noticeable than properly caulking and painting. Life’s too short! You did a nice job though!
Indeed. Total waste of time
Agreed
For such small gaps, you should use only white acrylic silicone.
This is a great method, only question I have is why not use just the 10" knife. It could of been 1 or 2 swipes and cut your edges and done. Not knocking you just wondering the idea behind it.
That’s a good question! I do have 6,8,12 at the time. I just didn’t want to use the 12 for some reason 😅 but you are absolutely correct 👍🏽😊
Great Job. I just learned something new. Now I need a hopper and gun
hey I'm a home builder and you"re doing good keep at it you will get better !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Should you remove paint from the walls before doing this?
Hi! I would sand the surface to rough it up before applying skim coat
Would cutting base board a little longer and push baseboard in while nailing eliminate this problem assuming the gas is not too drastic
How about nailing it to the wall?
I like it! I also learned a very good skill to fix a bowed wall. Thank you!
This is so satisfying to watch
Take your fingers and pinch the knife edge for a depth guide and go horizontal with the knife and use the baseboard to guide your fingers ..after loading the wall with mud. Perfect reveal every time.
Awesome job! I'm going to consider doing this to fix a similar gap.
Super helpful video. You are so skilled!
Great video, you showed me how to fix the exact same problem at my house.
I am about to caulk by baseboards and would like to know your opinion on DAP Alex Plus? Can you share with me why DAP extreme stretch over Alex Plus? I bought the Alex plus and dunno if I should refund it and get your recommended one
Super smooth! Freaking awesome!!!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Had a gap. Banged a nail or two, wood filler and touch up paint. Done.
okay, as for a diy'er, this is a decent video if you don't want to rip trim off. But 99% of the time I'm taking the trim off. Also, anytime you're adding compound to an already textured wall, always use a wet sponge and feather the edges. I usually do that when it's about halfway dry. I've always found doing it when it's wet I mess it up more. Everyone is different, that's my way. The texture that was on the wall, vs the texture you added are different. So in that case, I would've just taken a scraper, knocked all the texture off, and retextured the whole wall. You've got a thick texture vs a thin orange peel. Good work, but that's going to be an eye catcher.
Thank you so much for the tip! Really appreciate you taking your time to write this advice 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse no problem man. I always like to see different techniques. i just have a rule of thumb, if I'm putting texture on the wall, i never do a small spot. You'll ALWAYS see where you fixed it. you're probably going to paint that whole wall anyways, I would've just textured the whole thing. An hour of work saves a lifetime of headaches. I'm not pro by any means. But i do this stuff quite a bit.
Thank you very much for this video ! Could you please to fix the gap by the corner like this picture
I don’t know to send picture sorry
Hi! Thank you 🙏🏽! Please send me the picture on my email: fixthishouse1@yahoo.com
Nice work, knock down gun always a must💪
While this is the proper way, I’m sure, what about just filling the gap with joint compound instead of going all the way up the wall? Filling the gap with the joint compound, then caulking before painting. Especially if the walls are already painted?? Because the gap on my already painted wall is almost 18” long
What if 90% of all your baseboards are like this. Any recommendations?
Hi! It’s up to you and how willing you are to correct the problem. You can pull all baseboards out and resurface the walls and texture. Or you can go the short route and caulk the gap if the gaps are not that big. Personally I would only do the obvious ones for resurface and the rest caulking 🙏🏽
i need that texture spray for the game room
Let’s spray it, when I stopped by you has orange peel already
Thanks for sharing this video. I bought a house that's mid 1950s the baseboard is set behind the floor and I do have some walls that are a bit off so this will be perfect for the situation I'm in as I don't want to remove the baseboard.
I’m glad I could be of help! I’m very glad you were able to use this option. I know some may say why didn’t you just remove the whole baseboard then fill? Not everyone has that option and this is just another way to fix those gaps. 🙏🏽😊 thank you so much for watching!
What's kind silicon to fill gaps?
Leave the tape off so you know exactly what to fill. You can sand or wipe anything off the baseboard later. That’s what you get for guys cheating on filling mud on the corner bead properly
This works! I use this method also.
Nice! 🙏🏽😊👍🏽
A load of work for a tiny gap that nobody will even see, just caulk it.
Beautiful...you take great pride in your work!!
Thank you 🙏🏽 so much!
Nice job, good video. Thanks
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Looks really good. I like your technique. Probably will be using it in the future!
Damn I wish I had someone w/ your skill for my house.
Good work. Thank you.
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Lot of work for a temporary fix. Proper way is to use foam spray fill the gap then just caulk along the top easy as that, this way will just crack again due to movement and flex and any knocks against the base board plus any shrinking of the caulk will just fall back down the gap.
Y do u have to use caulk if u foam spray it ? Arnt they the same? I seriously don't know
@@ittybitty_caribou8697 clue is in the name expanding foam spray, caulk is a fine filler that you will then put on top after you cut foam back and sanded. Personally I won't use caulk I would use a different filler like Powder one that you mix with water as the caulk is to fine in my opinion.
That’s fine if you don’t have a 90 degree corner to install more baseboard. The shortened heights won’t match
I like your channel. Good tips, great job!
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
It's nice work. Thank you for sharing this helpful DIY tip!!!!
Thank you so much for watching! 🙏🏽😊
Really fantastic video, thank you!!
Man, I would just caulk it personally (siliconized acrylic to stretch & paint). As long as baseboard still attached well and not pulling off. I hate mud work + texturing, that is a lot of time and labor for a small defect, and the tools to do it right let alone the experience. It's one of those things you'll hardly notice unless you're looking for it or know after caulking.
But you can put tape on top and bottom and do compound on the wall
I did the same exact thing the other day! Lol! Love your tips & channel!👌👍
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Very handy, thanks
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Thank you.
Thank you! Anytime! 🙏🏽😊
great job, smooth.
Thank you so much! 🙏🏽😊
Great Job Son 👍👍👍✌
Thank you 🙏🏽!
@@FixThisHouse you are Welcome Son 🙏 🙏 I m a big Fan of Yours . 👍👊✌
@@aznycts that really means a lot! Thank you much more! 🙏🏽
Beautiful 👍
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Allways good. thank you.
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Very nice work
Thank you 🙏🏽!
When your painting the wall I always paint to the back edge of the top of the base. So if the caulk gap is off as it always is you can't notice thicker caulk.
Thank you for the advice! 🙏🏽😊
to be honest, for me at least, the time to benefit ratio is not worth it. I’d just use some 2 part filler, caulk and then pain it so the wall and baseboard lines are even. Baseboards are usually seen from 5-6ft away which hides minor imperfections
Dude why did you do orange peel texture? when the existing texture is clearly a knock down. anyway I really enjoy your videos. Thanks for the content.
Great job
Thank you! 🙏🏽👍🏽
THANK YOUUUUUUU
I’m glad I could be of help! 🙏🏽😊
Just subscribed thanks for sharing my friend 👍👍👍
Thank you so much!! 🙏🏽👍🏽
Thank you 👍
Paintable caulk. Paint Trim, done.
Caulking would hav been fine. All that work for a little gap. Who walks around and inspects your baseboards? Houses move thru the years, are you going to be remudding your walls just for gaps.?
Hi! Just an option, especially if you have areas that show these areas out in the open. As you saw on the video I had caulking on one wall and it just doesn’t look as good as if you took the time to even out the wall.
I rather put caulking looks good rather than wasting all that time and doing all that work and wasting all that money and no one is going to be looking at the ground most of the time plus im sure theres more defects on the eye level and also the texture of the wall eventually ends up looking worser with a patch on it since ill be really hard to match it even if youre a proffesional at it i would rather have a gap where its hard to be seen than a patch that will get your eye attention but again thats just me and im into art and work in construction.
Tks..excellent job!
Pop quiz!! What size knives does he use?!?!
4” , 6” and 12” 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
Great video
Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
Caulking is good
Looks great 👍
Thank you 🙏🏽!
Had a short uneven wall as well. My son used this method, it looks so much better than caulking a big gap. 👍👍
Bravo 👏🏼
Thank you 🙏🏽
My contractor installed, skimmed and sanded the walls. And was going to paint it, I stopped them. The gaps everywhere. Just checked places where is going to be baseboards, vents, electric plates, corners. Hate this work. Decided to straight this places with mud to minimize gaps, just use some longer screed, DIY. Annoying work, I want to demolish all walls and do it right, but my husband don't let me do it, he doesn't care if the gaps around. As for me it looks like a cheap finish work.
Nice job!
Good video but if you painted the caulk the wall color it would have blended better than leaving it white.
great job !
Thank you 🙏🏽
Extra work but it is pro
Man that mismatched texture is way more noticeable than that caulked baseboard
Meanwhile, in 2042, he's finally fixed all of the imperfections in the house. :)