That is brilliant. The one time I've processed 110 since getting my darkroom back up, I literally *bought a Yankee tank* because it had a 110 setting for the spiral. It works, but it's not invertible and came without a twizzle stick (I paid to have one 3D printed). Now, I've got some extra Paterson-style spirals, and I can easily get more (they're all over eBay); I may finish up this mod by shortening the inner core piece as well and gluing on a keeper to let me load two, three, or four spirals one on top of the other -- because I also have several Minolta 16 format cameras (and they'll be viable long after the auto exposure in my Pocket Instamatic 60 is dead and unrepairable). BTW, with a little common masking tape, you can load *three* 110 rolls one after the other in a single spiral like this one -- load one roll so the tail is just past the start of the grooves, start the second behind it, and then tape the tail of the first to the head of the second. Repeat for the third, and you still only need about 150 ml of chemistry to cover.
Thanks for watching, really appreciate it!! Great tip with the masking tape by the way! Would also be good for when I want to test more than one roll of 16mm at a time. Thanks again!!
@@Filmboy24 BTW, assuming you use larger film sometimes, I originally discovered the masking tape trick for loading 2x120 on a single spiral that would otherwise take 220 (which is the same length as 135-36). Gives the same film per solution as 35 mm.
This was cool, I just modify one right now:o) Now I can start testing out some of my old 16mm film to see if it's worth shooting...... Thanks again for these nice ideals.......
Someone gave me some exposed 110 film (found somewhere) so I was looking for ideas and came upon your video. I plan to use this from now on to test found exposed 16mm film. Thanks
That's awesome, just got a toy 110 camera from a friend and was getting put off by film lab prices since it's a specialty film now. Hopefully will try this method soon.
Inspiring. I'm all for making your own when industry has decided 'there's no call for it' anymore! I'm guessing that as Standard 8mm (i.e. 2x8mm) is effectively 16mm wide and split post developing this modified reel will also work for that film...
Exellent video very helpful and informative. I have an 8mm paterson reel for minox film( it was made for me ) as you say is very economical on chemicals. Alan in the UK
Hi Marc, yes, you can fit an entire 110 roll of film in this, with plenty of room to spare. These reels will hold about 5' of film and if I remember correctly, a full 110 spool (24 exposures) is around 28" long.
I've been meaning to try and modify one for 8mm width film. There are a couple other things that would have to be done, like removing the "lip" where the film is fed in. That lip is too low and wouldn't allow the 2 reels to get close enough together.
Hey Ricardo, I went with about 4mm less than the film size, so about 12mm for 16mm film. If I were doing 17.5mm, I'd go with about 13.5mm. It's always best to double check though. Take a small piece of your film and the half of the reel you're going to cut. Orient the film into the grooves, then measure up from the top of the grooves to the top of the film. You do want a little bit of wiggle room, so I'd add about .5mm to whatever that measurement is. Best of luck!!
I have another question. The film itself is basically over 7inches long. It's going to be black and white films. When I developed the film, how long should I keep it in the container with the chemical inside before I drain it and pull out the film in the light
@@ricardotorres836 That can be tough to answer, as many films have different development times. B&W film typically takes 5-8 minutes in the developer but it's always best to check times at a site like this: www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php Make sure you fix your film as well before exposing it to light.
Just to mod it for 110 format film, I just bought a spare paterson reel. Small metal balls are missing on the reel I bought. Are there metal balls that I can use instead? Or do you know the dimensions?
Hi Halil, I haven't come across this issue before but I think it would be tough to get the little ball bearings in there. If you're just using it for small strips of film, you might be able to just hand feed the film onto the reel (pushing it). Cut the lead end corners off the film first. Good Luck!!
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That is brilliant. The one time I've processed 110 since getting my darkroom back up, I literally *bought a Yankee tank* because it had a 110 setting for the spiral. It works, but it's not invertible and came without a twizzle stick (I paid to have one 3D printed). Now, I've got some extra Paterson-style spirals, and I can easily get more (they're all over eBay); I may finish up this mod by shortening the inner core piece as well and gluing on a keeper to let me load two, three, or four spirals one on top of the other -- because I also have several Minolta 16 format cameras (and they'll be viable long after the auto exposure in my Pocket Instamatic 60 is dead and unrepairable).
BTW, with a little common masking tape, you can load *three* 110 rolls one after the other in a single spiral like this one -- load one roll so the tail is just past the start of the grooves, start the second behind it, and then tape the tail of the first to the head of the second. Repeat for the third, and you still only need about 150 ml of chemistry to cover.
Thanks for watching, really appreciate it!! Great tip with the masking tape by the way! Would also be good for when I want to test more than one roll of 16mm at a time. Thanks again!!
@@Filmboy24 BTW, assuming you use larger film sometimes, I originally discovered the masking tape trick for loading 2x120 on a single spiral that would otherwise take 220 (which is the same length as 135-36). Gives the same film per solution as 35 mm.
@@SilntObsvr That's awesome! Thanks for the tip!!
Just cut a reel! I'm trying to process some 110 and this was the most useful video on the internet.
Awesome!! Thanks, John!!
This was cool, I just modify one right now:o) Now I can start testing out some of my old 16mm film to see if it's worth shooting...... Thanks again for these nice ideals.......
I only developed one 110 film myself, a B&W film. I did it by hand in trays. Turned out good.
Someone gave me some exposed 110 film (found somewhere) so I was looking for ideas and came upon your video. I plan to use this from now on to test found exposed 16mm film. Thanks
Awesome, Dale!! I just used it a couple days ago, still serving me well :)
That's awesome, just got a toy 110 camera from a friend and was getting put off by film lab prices since it's a specialty film now. Hopefully will try this method soon.
Thank you, Fernando! I love this little solution and still use it pretty regularly.
Thank you for a very cool and interesting idea. Sure I’m gonna use it for both 110 and double 8mm projects.
Thanks!
Very interesting and well spoken instructions. Nice video Mike
Thank you kindly!!
That's awesome you got that done. Good job FilmBoy.
Thanks Rob!
Many thanks! I'll give it a try!
thank you, i have Meopta Mikroma photo camera that use 16mm film and thanks to your video I can try it out :)
My pleasure! Best of luck to you!
So helpful Mike! Thank you!
My pleasure!!
Inspiring. I'm all for making your own when industry has decided 'there's no call for it' anymore! I'm guessing that as Standard 8mm (i.e. 2x8mm) is effectively 16mm wide and split post developing this modified reel will also work for that film...
Thank you! Yes, this reel would also handle Standard (pre-cut) 8mm film. Be mindful though that the reel will only hold about 5' of film.
@@Filmboy24 Thanks and indeed. I tend to develop in 'botanical brews' so I spend a lot time 'testing'.
@@mrsmscuriositycabinet6925 That's awesome! Best of luck to you!!
Just what I was looking for!
Awesome! Thanks!!
Nice job👌
Thank you!!
Thanks for sharing, Filmboy24! This is amazing & you are amazing, too!!
Thank you!!!
Developing film negatives will remember old school as never forget etc.?
Love your work mate your videos always help me out a lot!
Thanks so much, Miscx!!
Yea, I've also modified some of my tanks
That was very helpful! Thank you so much : ))
My pleasure, thank you Mohamed!!
Exellent video very helpful and informative.
I have an 8mm paterson reel for minox film( it was made for me ) as you say is very economical on chemicals.
Alan in the UK
Thanks, Alan!
Yeah! This is it!
Very very helpful! Thank you!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!!
Excellent, just what I was looking for I recently dropped my old Johnson reel which promptly exploded 🤣
ARRRRRGGGGGG! I've done that too, Mark...not a warm and fuzzy feeling! Thanks for watching!
How much chemisty do you need? And does developing 20 5ft lengths of 16mm in a paterson tank use less than 100ft in a lomo/morse tank?
Very little (about 6 ounces) for one length of 16mm. This particular design isn't really for long runs, more for testing or experimenting.
Hi! Thanks for sharing! So, I understand that it’s not possible to fit a whole 110 film in it?
Hi Marc, yes, you can fit an entire 110 roll of film in this, with plenty of room to spare. These reels will hold about 5' of film and if I remember correctly, a full 110 spool (24 exposures) is around 28" long.
hypothetically could you do this for 8mm too?
I've been meaning to try and modify one for 8mm width film. There are a couple other things that would have to be done, like removing the "lip" where the film is fed in. That lip is too low and wouldn't allow the 2 reels to get close enough together.
So where could I find your photo tutorial of when you made this spool, as mentioned at 1:47 ? thanks
The video is the photo tutorial, which starts after the time you mentioned.
I have 17.5mm films that I was use for my spy camera, what's the best measurements to cut the reel for it?
Hey Ricardo, I went with about 4mm less than the film size, so about 12mm for 16mm film. If I were doing 17.5mm, I'd go with about 13.5mm. It's always best to double check though. Take a small piece of your film and the half of the reel you're going to cut. Orient the film into the grooves, then measure up from the top of the grooves to the top of the film. You do want a little bit of wiggle room, so I'd add about .5mm to whatever that measurement is. Best of luck!!
I have another question. The film itself is basically over 7inches long. It's going to be black and white films. When I developed the film, how long should I keep it in the container with the chemical inside before I drain it and pull out the film in the light
@@ricardotorres836 That can be tough to answer, as many films have different development times. B&W film typically takes 5-8 minutes in the developer but it's always best to check times at a site like this: www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
Make sure you fix your film as well before exposing it to light.
Thank you!!
My pleasure! Thanks for watching!!
Just to mod it for 110 format film, I just bought a spare paterson reel. Small metal balls are missing on the reel I bought. Are there metal balls that I can use instead? Or do you know the dimensions?
Hi Halil, I haven't come across this issue before but I think it would be tough to get the little ball bearings in there. If you're just using it for small strips of film, you might be able to just hand feed the film onto the reel (pushing it). Cut the lead end corners off the film first. Good Luck!!
I have 6 roll of 110 film. I will let you know how it turns out..
You got this!
U Rock Mike
It's Keith Kuhn
Once I take my 400-foot real to the post office and have it weighed I will get your address and send it to you.
Keith Kuhn
this is the only way i'll shoot 110 film tbh