Here are a couple of links to products that look good. Usually I look at what is on the shelf at whatever hardware store and pick something up. You are looking for anything with a flat rasping surface. www.testntools.co.nz/desic-multi-tool-blade-for-grout-and-mortar-removal-dwd6080.html www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-Starlock-Carbide-Oscillating-Tool-Blade/1000672819
If you have a flat substrate there should be no gaps between it and the backer board if you screw the board down every 6 inches. Manufacturer recommendations are 8". While a thinset application is a recommended step by backer board manufacturers, we have removed a good many floors over the years and the damage done to the plywood substrate usually requires extensive sanding or complete removal of the 3/4" material. My personal take is you should start with a flat surface, increase the frequency of screws and forgo the thinset. I've done a number of floors like this over the past 20 years and they have all held up well. If anyone in interested in Bob's take on installation, I have referenced a good video link by the HardieBacker company. th-cam.com/video/U6GYjXJFUXY/w-d-xo.html
There was no mortar mixed in this video. If you are referring to what was applied to the original backer board, it was mixed properly and bonded quite well to the substrate. The problem in this particular instance was that the backs of the tiles were not wiped clean of dust and thinset was not worked into the backs prior to setting them.
You should have put subfloor glue between the two plywood
Great work! Im curious what type of attachment are you using on that multitool when you were like sanding the extra thinset/mortar off?
Here are a couple of links to products that look good. Usually I look at what is on the shelf at whatever hardware store and pick something up. You are looking for anything with a flat rasping surface.
www.testntools.co.nz/desic-multi-tool-blade-for-grout-and-mortar-removal-dwd6080.html
www.lowes.com/pd/Bosch-Starlock-Carbide-Oscillating-Tool-Blade/1000672819
@@groutrx1415 Great thanks!
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YOU SHOULD HAVE SET THE CONCRETE BACKER BOARD WITH THIN SET BETWEEN THE FLOOR AND BACKER BOARD TO REMOVE ANY GAPS BETWEEN FLOOR AND BAKER BOARD
If you have a flat substrate there should be no gaps between it and the backer board if you screw the board down every 6 inches. Manufacturer recommendations are 8". While a thinset application is a recommended step by backer board manufacturers, we have removed a good many floors over the years and the damage done to the plywood substrate usually requires extensive sanding or complete removal of the 3/4" material. My personal take is you should start with a flat surface, increase the frequency of screws and forgo the thinset. I've done a number of floors like this over the past 20 years and they have all held up well. If anyone in interested in Bob's take on installation, I have referenced a good video link by the HardieBacker company. th-cam.com/video/U6GYjXJFUXY/w-d-xo.html
MORTAR WAS NOT MIXED RIGHT.
There was no mortar mixed in this video. If you are referring to what was applied to the original backer board, it was mixed properly and bonded quite well to the substrate. The problem in this particular instance was that the backs of the tiles were not wiped clean of dust and thinset was not worked into the backs prior to setting them.