love your channel probably one of the best ive see on YT if not the best for astro and the simplicity on how you put your knowledge across I only subbed aday or two ago and have been watching your vids from the early uploads and slowly making my way to the newer ones
Super helpful tutorial! I am a huge OBX fan as well so the drone footage and timelapses from out there is getting me hyped for May when I go back! I think a video of just timelapse and drone footage from out here set to similar music you have in the beginning of this one would be sweet!
Love the opening sequence!! OBX is my home away from home. I was just down back in November. Stayed right next to Nags Head Pier. Also, watch all your videos, about to try this blending again. : D Thanks!!
Subbed. I've been looking for tutorials on adding foreground with stacked sky/star images and this is perfect, thank you. I use a Fornax Lightrack but never done any images including the foreground only DSO, looking forward to trying some wide angle stuff now.
@@Milkywaymike when you take the images of the stars and the foreground do you keep the camera in the same position but switched off on the tracker for the foreground and then obviously on for the stars but the camera/lens is still in the same position ?
I typically use the select and mask option. This is a tutorial for a star trail but it contains a tree in which i have to mask out: th-cam.com/video/8zg32ac9Ybg/w-d-xo.html
Dude, thanks for this tutorial, i was really looking for how i could do some long exposure with a tracker and actually save the foreground that gets blurry... I'm building a DIY Barn-door tracker to do some pictures like this one you got, because unfortunately a iOptron or a Vixen Tracker its actually really hard to get and expensive here in Brazil, but i hope i can make some nice shots like you with this technique! Amazing job man.
Thank you for your tutorial... You gave me a lot of insight to work off of. Do you ever take dark, flats or bias frames when shooting allowing you to grab longer exposures like 3-4 minutes and remove all of the hot pixels in starstax or some other similar program? EDIT: When you are taking pictures of the foreground and your startracker is turned off. Do you move your camera at all to capture more of the foreground and mesh the two of them together in Photoshop or do you keep it pointed in the same location as it was before when you were taking all of your star shots? I am not sure if this question makes sense.
Typically I take shots from multiple locations or perspectives so I don't take too many flats or dark frames since it can get very time consuming. I remove hot pixels using "Dust and Scratches" in photoshop which removes most of the hot pixels and I might have to clone out a few after as well. I plan on making a video about this soon. It varies on the shot and location... If its a low angle or place with a lot of trees then I typically shoot the foreground and readjust my tripod to make polar aligning easier... So I might walk the camera a few feet to a clearing or even drive up the road to a different spot. If I can avoid moving I will shoot the foreground and then turn the tracker on which allows me to blend the 2 photos easier. Regardless you have to get pretty good at masking the foreground and sky.
Awesome Work Mike! Just ordered my Vixen Polarie Tracker. Can't wait to test it out soon :) and doing some stuff from this tutorial then. Which Focal Length did you use for this one?
Awesome congrats! I used a sigma 35 1.4. Typically my go to night lenses are my 14-24 and 35. The 50mm is fantastic too for tracking the core of the Milky Way
Thanks... It was 60 seconds. Typically I do 1-2 minute exposures with my tracker. If I really get my the tracker dialed in, then I can get up to 3-4 minute exposures.
Nice work. I'm going to dabble in wide field soon. I'm thinking Rokinon 14mm because I'm shooting crop. Crop is a good thing in deep sky object but a curse for Milky Way. Any suggestions on a good crop lens?
14mm on a crop is still not that bad.. it puts you around 21mm which is still very wide. To be honest I just picked up a 35mm lens (for full frame) to draw my pictures closer into the core of the milky way. Check out the 14-20mm F2 by Tokina which is meant for cropped sensors. I've heard and seen some great milky way shots taken with that.
First you need to know what direction to look in, so you need an app or go to stellarium . com which is free. Then you need to go to a dark enough area away from city lights and large towns. When you photograph the milky way core it naturally is a golden color from star dust and tightly grouped packs of stars. I'm not sure what camera you have but I made a video for those with a beginner dslr and kit lens th-cam.com/video/ExQDiLaTzBA/w-d-xo.html
How did you expose for the milkyway and the sun at the same time? Like in minute 0:36-0:37. Wouldn't the whole picture be blown out if you would shoot the sun with the settings for the milkyway?
Thats not the sun.. its actually a crescent moon! Thats why it looks so bright because of the long exposure. When the moon is low to the horizon it gives off an orange glow similar to what the sun looks like.
oh ok, gotcha! No you don't need to take calibration frames. However starry landscape stacker has been updated so it will accept dark frames now so you could try adding some of those exposures when stacking.
Man thanks for the upload and love the tutorial but... What's up with the like... 2 minute intro?! It's great footage and all but I think most people are coming here for the tutorial. You should turn that into 8 seconds. Just a suggestion :) thanks again for the tutorial though! Love it!
Thanks for watching and your suggestion! Yeah this intro is longer than most so I included a start time in my description for the tutorial (and as the top comment as well) for those that want to skip it. I typically put time lapses and some video as inspiration for others... this just ended up being pretty long.
Milky Way Mike ah gotcha, my bad, I didn't see the description with the start time and was like "lol when is this thing starting." on mobile it doesn't show the description and comments unless you tap the pull down arrow. Again though, not trying to hate, just making a suggestion. Living the vids! Keep 'em coming!
Thanks, I'm just showing you a technique not asking for critique of a photo that is subjective. Also every computer monitor is different as well... and most likely not calibrated which will render different results.
Dude. Seriously thank you for taking the time to upload these videos. Extremely helpful!!
Thank you for watching!! I really appreciate it. Glad to help...
Learn how to create cleaner Milky Way images!!! Tutorial starts at 1:52 ENJOY!
love your channel probably one of the best ive see on YT if not the best for astro and the simplicity on how you put your knowledge across
I only subbed aday or two ago and have been watching your vids from the early uploads and slowly making my way to the newer ones
Thank you for the kind words!! Happy shooting!
Super helpful tutorial! I am a huge OBX fan as well so the drone footage and timelapses from out there is getting me hyped for May when I go back! I think a video of just timelapse and drone footage from out here set to similar music you have in the beginning of this one would be sweet!
Thanks for watching and commenting!! Yeah I love OBX, its gorgeous there!! good luck with your when you go in May!!
Love the opening sequence!! OBX is my home away from home. I was just down back in November. Stayed right next to Nags Head Pier. Also, watch all your videos, about to try this blending again. : D Thanks!!
Thank you so much! I love OBX, its so beautiful there!!
Subbed. I've been looking for tutorials on adding foreground with stacked sky/star images and this is perfect, thank you. I use a Fornax Lightrack but never done any images including the foreground only DSO, looking forward to trying some wide angle stuff now.
Thanks for watching and hopefully you get some awesome MW shots when you go out! Cheers
@@Milkywaymike when you take the images of the stars and the foreground do you keep the camera in the same position but switched off on the tracker for the foreground and then obviously on for the stars but the camera/lens is still in the same position ?
Awesome Mike!
Thank you!
Nice job Mike, I must give that glamour glow a go! 😆
Definitely experiment!!
Hey Mike great work. I'd like to see how you'd would go with an image containing foreground trees and more complex structures.
I typically use the select and mask option. This is a tutorial for a star trail but it contains a tree in which i have to mask out: th-cam.com/video/8zg32ac9Ybg/w-d-xo.html
Dude, thanks for this tutorial, i was really looking for how i could do some long exposure with a tracker and actually save the foreground that gets blurry... I'm building a DIY Barn-door tracker to do some pictures like this one you got, because unfortunately a iOptron or a Vixen Tracker its actually really hard to get and expensive here in Brazil, but i hope i can make some nice shots like you with this technique! Amazing job man.
Good luck! Thanks for watching and hopefully it all works out for you!
Thank you for your tutorial... You gave me a lot of insight to work off of. Do you ever take dark, flats or bias frames when shooting allowing you to grab longer exposures like 3-4 minutes and remove all of the hot pixels in starstax or some other similar program?
EDIT: When you are taking pictures of the foreground and your startracker is turned off. Do you move your camera at all to capture more of the foreground and mesh the two of them together in Photoshop or do you keep it pointed in the same location as it was before when you were taking all of your star shots? I am not sure if this question makes sense.
Typically I take shots from multiple locations or perspectives so I don't take too many flats or dark frames since it can get very time consuming. I remove hot pixels using "Dust and Scratches" in photoshop which removes most of the hot pixels and I might have to clone out a few after as well. I plan on making a video about this soon.
It varies on the shot and location... If its a low angle or place with a lot of trees then I typically shoot the foreground and readjust my tripod to make polar aligning easier... So I might walk the camera a few feet to a clearing or even drive up the road to a different spot. If I can avoid moving I will shoot the foreground and then turn the tracker on which allows me to blend the 2 photos easier. Regardless you have to get pretty good at masking the foreground and sky.
Awesome Work Mike! Just ordered my Vixen Polarie Tracker. Can't wait to test it out soon :) and doing some stuff from this tutorial then. Which Focal Length did you use for this one?
Awesome congrats! I used a sigma 35 1.4. Typically my go to night lenses are my 14-24 and 35. The 50mm is fantastic too for tracking the core of the Milky Way
thanks mike, now i know the magic 👌
You're welcome!!! happy shooting
Thank you for this video, Mike! Do you have any videos on how to use the iOptron? Mine just arrived yesterday and I feel clueless when I look at it..
hopefully soon!
Wow. So glad I found your videos. I’m subscribed now. Using the iOptron for tracking the Milky Way in this series what was your exposure time?
Thanks... It was 60 seconds. Typically I do 1-2 minute exposures with my tracker. If I really get my the tracker dialed in, then I can get up to 3-4 minute exposures.
Nice work. I'm going to dabble in wide field soon. I'm thinking Rokinon 14mm because I'm shooting crop. Crop is a good thing in deep sky object but a curse for Milky Way. Any suggestions on a good crop lens?
14mm on a crop is still not that bad.. it puts you around 21mm which is still very wide. To be honest I just picked up a 35mm lens (for full frame) to draw my pictures closer into the core of the milky way. Check out the 14-20mm F2 by Tokina which is meant for cropped sensors. I've heard and seen some great milky way shots taken with that.
Milky Way Mike thanks I will. Fantastic work you're doing. Keep it up.
Appreciate it!! Happy shooting!!
Hi brother! How can I give the yellow and blue colors to the milkyway center man? Do you have any videos about this
First you need to know what direction to look in, so you need an app or go to stellarium . com which is free. Then you need to go to a dark enough area away from city lights and large towns. When you photograph the milky way core it naturally is a golden color from star dust and tightly grouped packs of stars. I'm not sure what camera you have but I made a video for those with a beginner dslr and kit lens th-cam.com/video/ExQDiLaTzBA/w-d-xo.html
Where was this image shot at? Nice tutorial
Assateague Island in Maryland
Great tutorial.
Thank you for watching!
How did you expose for the milkyway and the sun at the same time? Like in minute 0:36-0:37. Wouldn't the whole picture be blown out if you would shoot the sun with the settings for the milkyway?
Thats not the sun.. its actually a crescent moon! Thats why it looks so bright because of the long exposure. When the moon is low to the horizon it gives off an orange glow similar to what the sun looks like.
Hey Mike, thanks for that great Video. Can u tell me what Music is at the Beginning of the video?
It was in youtube creator free music section... I'll have to see if I can find it... Just give me a day or 2, Thanks!
Milky Way Mike Would be awesome if u find it again ❤️ Love for you
Its called "shoulder closures" in youtube creator free music
@@Milkywaymike thanks
How do light up the tent to make it glow at night, couldn't find any tutorials?
Amy law use any light you want... flashlight, headlamp or even your phone. Sometimes I use a T-shirt to dim the light
is this what you do for timelapses. Can you do this for a timelapse?
Kanon Dou nah, it’s different for time lapses th-cam.com/video/OH48g0q1-Os/w-d-xo.html
@@Milkywaymike Thanks!
Great Video (Y)
Thanks!!
Do you need to use calibration frames?
hmm... I'm not familiar with the term "calibration frames"... what are they exactly?
Flats, darks, bias shots.
oh ok, gotcha! No you don't need to take calibration frames. However starry landscape stacker has been updated so it will accept dark frames now so you could try adding some of those exposures when stacking.
Man thanks for the upload and love the tutorial but... What's up with the like... 2 minute intro?! It's great footage and all but I think most people are coming here for the tutorial. You should turn that into 8 seconds. Just a suggestion :) thanks again for the tutorial though! Love it!
Thanks for watching and your suggestion! Yeah this intro is longer than most so I included a start time in my description for the tutorial (and as the top comment as well) for those that want to skip it. I typically put time lapses and some video as inspiration for others... this just ended up being pretty long.
Milky Way Mike ah gotcha, my bad, I didn't see the description with the start time and was like "lol when is this thing starting." on mobile it doesn't show the description and comments unless you tap the pull down arrow. Again though, not trying to hate, just making a suggestion. Living the vids! Keep 'em coming!
Its all good.. I need to keep phone viewers in mind as well, so I will keep the intros shorter in the future! Thanks for the feedback.
The exposure time is maybe a little long
Thanks, I'm just showing you a technique not asking for critique of a photo that is subjective. Also every computer monitor is different as well... and most likely not calibrated which will render different results.