Tissue culture might be an interesting project for Cody to work on. Edit: oh wow okay some quick advice about cuttings. 1. Use bypass cutters they damage the stems less. 2. When "scraping" the cuttings the idea is to expose the cambium underneath the dermis think of it as whittling off about 1thou from the outside. 3. Don't dip into your source container of root hormone pour a tiny amount into a small container (I use a shot glass). This helps you prevent the spread of disease. 4. That store bought stuff is crap buy a liquid mixture that you dillute to get your desired strength. The bottle will often have recommendations for different types of plants. 5 your humidity box is decent however you should see signs of rooting in roughly two weeks. Once you have rooting you need to get them out of that humid zone as the chance for disease is outrageously high. 6. You may want to decrease the intensity of the light and increase the time it's on. Photosynthesis is a water consuming reaction and at the moment the plant has no true way to take on water.
Good advice in here. Second the less intense light with more time. You want to use the humidity until they start rooting and then get ventilation going so you don't get disease. Just don't go suddenly from the humidity environment to no cover. Take the cover off for increasing amounts of time each day to acclimate them to the low humidity environment
@@soccer2themax Thanks man and the humidity lessening in stages makes sense I do all mine in a green house with a mist table so I didn't even think of it.
... Unfortunately, this project will take about 50 years. I know, I hate youtubers do that myself, but I'll cut the video now. But I need your feedback guys, because if I did something terribly wrong, I want to know it NOW. =)
I love your planting and bee videos. Three suggestions: 1) Instead of a rag you also can use some geo fleece or an insect screen. 2) Cut the cuttings in an steeper angle to expose more tissue to the soil. (Stick it in powdered charcoal, or a mix of charcoal-hormone powder and let it dry for 20 minutes or so.) 3) If you remove more leaves or needles you will reduce evaporation. Greetings from Austria! (I hope our pines will make it!)
Hi Cody, just some small tips from my own experiencess: to make some good plant cuttings you need to keep in mind that there are no roots on them so they need to get water in a different way in the beginning. Propagate them in a high humidity and do not keep the ground to wet to prevent rotting. Normally you will see roots in 2-3 weeks and you can start watering them normally. Also with the light regimen: you have to emulate the cycle of the sun. 12 hours is kinda short and mostly resembles the autumn/winter periode of a plant. Anyways, it's always fun to see your vid's. Cheers and good luck
Also using a coconut shell, sand mixture for the soil could do really well at stopping mold. I've done very very little growing plants from cuttings, but the coconut moss is what held back mold on my only successful attempt
Hahaha it might indeed be confusing but you also have to count the twillight hours with that. This is wat is "normally" used but i can inmagine that there are plant species that have a different cycle either way up north or south.
Well, if you start enough "1-year-wait projects", eventually we'll constantly see new projects start and previous projects end. So it's still a nice variety of content. And they're all well worth the wait :)
Jan Tuts i agree, 1 year wait projects do suit this channel really well, especially ones like this where even 2 or even 3 years from now we can see the fruits of the project throughout videos.
@@teldrynsero6791 Exactly! It also gives some proper weight to the projects: "Remember those cuttings I planted in a box last year? Well now they're saplings, ready to plant!" and then a few years later: "Look at this here grove, it's some of those cuttings I planted several years ago."
Not so fast! Our idiot president just threatened to cut funding to the Dep't of Forestry, since he is blaming them for the wildfires. The wildfires happened in part because of existing underfunding, so I don't know how much longer that service will be around, unfortunately.
it's almost like you're documenting real life, not fifteen minute snippets of content created for clicks. I prefer it this way. Though I've never rooted trees before...every time I clone something, it's in a liquid bath, no soil. I'll be looking for the update, in six months or so, to see how this works out.
Thats kind of what its alway been like...he just does his projects on the family ranch and areas hes studied and dociments them to youtube...not caring too much about views
Man, who'd have thought a fucking youtube video on planting trees would get so political. You republicunts just have to fight over _something,_ no matter how benign. You guys are pricks. You're also not going to sway Cody with your incessant bickering, so just shut the fuck up and go back to Gab.
@@noanoxan A little quick on the trigger there, aren't you? No one in this chain was fighting over anything. As a matter of fact, you were the most contentious person in this chain. Ease up a bit, OK?
A few tips from making mistakes myself with rooting , add some dividers or buy a small tray of pots at the gardening store else the roots get tangled all the way up and with soft roots like the ones you will get at the start , they will break off easily while replanting the rooted cuttings , lowering the chance of succes. Also maybe add some springtails already or if you see mold forming it will aid with slowing it down or completly removing it! btw wondering are those special grow lights or just white 40w LED strips? because if i remember right (its been a while since i learned about plant lighting) you should prefarably have a combination of blue and red light.(see profesional grow lights in greenhouses) also cutting the cuttings at a 45° - 75° angle should help with optimizing the surface area of the rootable layer in the cuttings. (couldn't see in the video if you did that)
I'd use woodlice instead of springtails. Springtails are known to eat the softer roots of plants, which won't kill the cuttings but will slow their progress.
For LED growing lights, I would recommend using Horticulture Lighting Group's quantum boards. Some soldering handiness is required for assembly but you can't get more efficient grow lights for less. Couldn't be happier with mine.
Perhaps tomatoes might grow best using that spectrum... those dark, dark leaves need some plenty of blue and the flowers and fruiting needs red... but in vegetative state, daylight or even warm white should be fine... He's not trying to grow fruit; he's trying to stimulate root growth. He could do that with the weak, refracted light source from his bathroom window if he wanted to.
I’d science it: add a few cheap sensors to monitor heat and humidity in your trays. Also, six months is egregious. Should be ready in weeks, maybe a couple months max before needing transplant. Typically cuttings are placed several inches apart. You’ll likely end up with a solid mat of roots if you’re even a fraction as successful as you’d like. I would highly suggest an early intervention-check in a week or two and once they’re starting to bind the medium, move to larger containers. Also, a warming mat and rockwool cubes can significantly speed progress in the future. Anyway, you’re awesome (incredible verve and breadth of skill) and this is one of the best channels - best of luck with your little trees :).
Cody, have you contacted the Utah forestry service? They can send out foresters to advise you on bringing back trees. Great resource for cheap ready to plant saplings
Several years ago and fifty miles south of Cody (but still in Utah), I attempted to use the forest service to replant an area deforested by fire. After two months of working with several different agencies, I gave up. Way too much bureaucracy.
@@killingtimeitself >didn't use government resources >government that is what surprised me, because the expenses and it needs to train to not have loss and stuff - that I have heard
Thanks for sharing your experiments, you are a man after my own heart with two exceptions, one is you actually do instead of endless dreaming about it, and two you go on camera to teach. If you can get pine from cuttings to root you are awesome. I find one of the most important variables to rooting cuttings is to reduce the leaf area to the bare minimum, typically 3 of the very youngest, smallest leaves out near the growing tip. It needs enough leaf to carry on photosynthesis enough to keep everything flowing in the plant so it can stay as healthy as possible so the amount of leaf area is somewhat relative to the total size of the cutting and the light intensity. You were right to immediately put the stems in water, but to take the same reasoning one step further cut them longer when you collect and then when you are ready to plant cut them again at a 45deg angle about an inch above the initial cut using the sharpest knife you can come up with. Do this cut underwater and keep it there for a couple of seconds, this step is to prevent air embolism in the cutting impeding uptake of water. This seems to be more important with older woody stems like the ones you are trying here. Next thing is to find shoots that have the nodes reasonably close together and you want about 3 nodes under the soil. It can help to carefully thin the skin(bark) around the nodes. More means more chances for roots to form but also more tissue to support and higher rot risk. Soil pH try neutral 7 and a half on either side to dial in what seems to do better. No fertilizer for cuttings, they wont need it until they are actively growing roots and new leaves, and without roots they are sorely limited in their ability to maintain internal chemistry so that chemical salts do more harm than good. Just need available water. Temperature; the warmer it is the faster everything happens making it harder to control. But below some temperature the plant is not active enough to defend itself from pathogens. Most plants effectively stop sub 55F and above 80 your rootless plants cant take up enough water to make it. So right around comfortable for you is about right for the cuttings, 70-78. And for details it usually works better to have a few degrees warmer soil than the air. And some say that the difference between temp during light and temp during dark needs to vary about 10 degrees, but my attempts have never been that controlled to opine. You are naturally going to get that to some extent when the lights are on. You are right about the mold thing, that looks way too wet, shoot for maybe a little bit of condensation down in the corners, 90-95% humidity. You want NO water on the leaves or you risk rot. If you see a water droplet on a leaf soak it up with the corner of paper towel. In that regard it helps to have a cover that is shaped 45degree angle or steeper so that any water that condensates will run to a predictable location so it does not drip on the plants. I think you have way more light than optimum for rooting cuttings, half that would probably be better which can be accomplished easily by raising the lights a few inches. And if you have a choice in color spectrum more blue/ less red seems to be beneficial for young plants and cuttings. IBA rooting powder is a good first try but some things do better without it and if you are splitting hairs the dosage is important. Woody cuttings take longer so I would try toward the cooler end regarding temperature, about 72F to buy more time to develop roots. If you can't find info on conditions for the specie you are trying or even a close relative, it is best to try many methods at the same time to increase your chances that one of them will succeed, then you know better what to do with the next batch. I think the plant you are trying is one of the more challenging ones to succeed with so you will probably have to use every trick to it's fullest to find joy. And lastly, you are probably way ahead to wait until next season and watch for when the seeds will come ripe but sometimes the rigors of the quest are more satisfying than the arrival at the destination. Rock on!
Note on rewatching this and getting heavily into bonsai and yamadori [mountain/wild collecting] When you dig up trees, you want to dig 4-5 times the width of the trunk away, and then dig down and under. You can then saw off the taproot. With conifers you don't want to get rid of too much soil on the feeder roots, since they are particularly dependent on mycelium.
Seeing this video in my subfeed made me smile so hard because it reminded me of all those months spent with my Dad re planting trees on his land it used to be heavily treed scrubland, but when he got it it was just covered by nothing but feral lavender, but now it is all clear and native grasses with one tree atleast every 10 metres.. it is beautiful Thank you Cody
@@samuelscott7646 Those were honestly some of the best months of my life, the feeling of accomplishment every time I see the trees on his property makese me want to move out to the middle of nowhere and fix up an old farming block
@@DuckcuD Ha, I don't mind lavender... the smell, and it attracts bees, and reminds me of a special place... but I get it, it's not for everyone, and it's certainly not the only thing one would want on their land (unless they're a little bit wacky, if you know what I mean)... I'd rather have peanuts than lavender coming up everywhere, myself...
@@sebastianramadan8393 There is nothing wrong with lavender in principal.. but when it has strangled out all other plant life and is not native.. it becomes a problem for the wildlife and a huge fire risk because of its high oil content
It is so great of you to undertake this project. Perhaps one of the most noble actions a human could take. I wondered as I watched this, if the cuttings could be individually rooted in separate little containers--perhaps like those little water bottles that roses come in from the flower shop--but I imagine it would be much more difficult to get enough oxygen into them. Looking forward to more on this, thanks Cody!
Pro tip. Coniferous trees have a higher success rate if the cutting is done from a heal cutting. Heal cuttings are done by pulling a small piece down from a stem leaving a small heal at the bottom. Typical length should be about 4.5 inch leaving the growing tip intact. These will take about 4-5 months to be ready to plant out. Other varieties may root quicker and be ready sooner than others but would be better left until they are all ready so to avoid damaging the other plants roots. I hope this helps.
I have a lot of experence rooting all types of cuttings (but haven't done conifers). I would do away with the air gap and air pump as it's likely to dry the root zone. Instead I'd control the moisture level of the media and sit the containers on heating pads (you can get cheap ones from China that have controllable heat output, maybe stick a probe in to check temps - or even use a controller). Roots grow best when provided with bottom heat. Also keep the light levels fairly low at first as you don't want the plants using all of their available nutrients for top growth - you just need enough light to keep them ticking over. Open the containers several times a week to either vent moisture or spritz depending on how damp they are. Good luck! A noble project.
Love that you saved the bee! I've read that it's best to first poke the hole in the soil and then pack around the cutting instead of stabbing it into the soil which scrapes off the rooting compound.
Another completely fascinating video for a totally worthwhile project. It's good to see somebody doing something that just isn't a 'quick fix', but is for the long term. Good work!
When attempting to stimulate root growth, trust me, you can do this with the weak, refracted light from your bathroom window. In fact, if you tried this in direct full day sunlight, those cuttings would all die! I would have probably trimmed those cuttings quite a bit more, too. Less leaves = less perspiration, which is an important factor for cloning, up to a point. I'd wager he's got more than enough light there, but unless Cody works out a solution to control mildew, that might hit him... I don't like sealing cuttings up for this reason, every time they seem to get mildew for me... I tried some basil yesterday, mildew within a day... cut the mildew leaf off, pop it in a vase with some hydrogen peroxide and it's firm and fresh with a bit of what might be a problem soon at the "root section" (that stem is an off-white, rather than a healthy green)... I think tonight I'll use aspirin water... swap from base to acid, then to neutral, boiled (but cooled to room temp) water and that should shock the mold enough while simultaneously stimulating an immune reaction in the "root section" of the cutting... I hope... I've been toying with cloning for a while, now, and I can tell you amount of light is REALLY not a big deal.
If every village in the world has one Cody, the world would be a better place. This is this is the major project that I am planning to do when I find some more time to spend at my grandparents' village in the steppes of Turkey. That is so inspiring.
You could try air layering some branches which will give you larger trees more quickly. It would also make an interesting video for people who don't know what air layering is.
Fingers crossed for those pinion and junipers restoring the land is such a great goal. And as someone who grew up in the southwest I can't help but have a warm spot for a good looking pinion tree.
Maybe they will root better if you "rip" them from the main branch and leave a little bit of "old wood" at the base of the cutting, at least that's what we learn in school as a gardener in germany
Other channels cant even come close to the quality of your videos man, very inspiration to do stuff like this. Hiking around the hills collecting cuttings for reforesting definitely inst the worst way you can spend a day.
Great video, always interesting especially the difference between the branches of Junipers of different ages. Nice little boxes of green amazing life! Evergreens are my favorite, such different but vibrant green shades!
I only have very faint knowledge from growing a couple of trees from seedlings myself, but maybe this helps: We used to keep the cuttings singled out and not in one big box like you did. We made little rooting pots out of cut in half small plastic water bottles. Drill some holes in the bottom, put in the cut of head in reverse, also some holes in there for the airflow, a paper towel at the bottom to stop the dirt from falling out. Then a wannabe new tree into it and cover it up a bag or some cling wrap to keep moist. That way, when one of them went sick or caught some mold the others were still save in their own little bottle.
Thats really the way to go on a reasonably small scale, but with that much cuttings it might get a bit inpractical. Maybe putting the cuttings in a pot and put the pots in the case, gives plenty time to spot starting rot in my experiance. That would help with seperation to.
Hi Cody, Few suggestions/ tips, 1. Most plants species loses the ability to root as they mature, thus you should use only the juveniles (I mean from juvenile plant, not juvenile branch from mature plant) In some cases it is possible to restore juvenility by heavy pruning, girdling or by grafting mature branch to juvenile plant (the stock should give its juvenile properties to the shoot). 2. I would suggest to try layering as well. that way there is no chance that the branch will dry out (and it is a cool method :) ) 3. Cut the part of the leaves (needles) of your cuttings. It will reduce transpiration and water lose. 4. Aerated bed works best. Try adding Vermiculite or Styrofoam. (or the oxygen pump will work.... never tried that one) 5. Keep it warm. 20-30 °C is optimal. 6. Open the lids at night. It will reduce the risk of developing mold. Spray water again at day time. Keep up with your awesome vids!!
There most be a company in the US that sells ready to plant trees. Prices vary from 5 cents up to 15 cents depending on age/size/spices here in Sweden. The difference in our forestry industries can't be that big?
Well if there is no market for it, we should start one. Offering helpful and rare trees, like you said ready to plant, specified for the wanted area. It would be a good concept that could reach a nice scale, to make prizes even cheaper. Non-profit of course.
Hey Cody, Ive been documenting the regrowth of Michigan’s forest, since it is still recovering from the logging era, over 100 years ago if you can believe it. These videos of reforesting your ranch have to be some of my favorite videos on your channel!
You should set your lights to 18/6. You want to veg your trees on a summer schedule. Also try to keep your grow room temperature around 80 degrees fahrenheit.
12/12 is for flowering.. Usually run clones on 18/6 or 24 hour light/dark cycles. This also applies for things like sweet peas, tomatoes and whatever else you may grow indoors.
SerpaDesign Has a ton of videos that might have quite a bit of information on keeping the plants healthy in their cases. Springtails will help with the mold, but may cause minor damage to the roots.
Hey Cody, love your new project! I've run a few common garden experiments for research and I just wanted to let you know that using coconut coir over peat moss really helps prevent mold from taking over your rootings. It's also a lot more sustainable than peat moss so it's more environmentally friendly to use. Love your channel, never stop learning!
Im not sure about america and where you live specifically but where i live in Australia we have re-forresting "organisations" that grow trees from cuttings and seeds they go out with local schools to plant trees would be great if you have something like that near you if you could do a video of thier set up and planting also possibly get some advice/help
When i root cuttings in the winter i leave my light on 16-18 hours depending on the plant species,any lower takes them a lot longer to root and the longer they take the chance of rot/mold gets higher. Trees and especially Evergreens are a different ball game.The older the parent tree the longer they take to root,long cuttings take longer then shorter cuts,so take cuttings from young plants or new wood(this years growth).Cody your doing it right with the lighting times as your trying to get them out of there dormant winter state to a spring time lighting schedule,which will help the plant to grow roots .
I've propagated many herbaceous plants i was under the impression that pines have a main taproot. I wonder it the clones will form a main taproot also. I have had far less success using the rooting powder. It has a weak concentration of the rooting hormone. CloneX gel works very well
In my experience plants don't need the taproot even if they would naturally develop one. If they need to root deeper they can do that without a taproot. i.e. the tree probably won't care ;)
My understanding is you can only get a (true tap root) from a seed. That said you should still get a root ball strong enough to support the tree. As for the light cycle, and temperature, I would agree you need to mimic the time of year when tree growth is most active. I would also recomend putting a seedling heating pad under the dome, as to replicate the ground warming in spring. You can use a regular heating pad, but most have an auto shut off after a certain period.
@Cody'sLab I have grown mass amounts of Arborvitae (thuja orientalis) from seed, with good results. The process involved a seed pod harvest around late September (as the pods began to lose their green, yet before they could dry out and open up). This was followed by a drying process. I gave mine 2 weeks of air drying indoors, but you could probably accelerate that with some ventilation. I imagine you could let them dry all the way out till they open up, but I pulled the seeds out of mine while they were still slightly green and sticky because it was easier to tell the difference between seed and pod before the pods browned. Starting from a Planter's peanut can full of green pods, I got probably 3000-4000 dry seeds after processing which I kept in a sealed can with some desiccant for long term storage. Next, the seeds needed to have at least a few weeks of winter or they wouldn't germinate. I made my winter out of 3 cups stacked on top of each other: 2 cups had pin holes in the bottom, the 3rd was left unaltered. I used transparent plastic so I could see inside. I kept the whole set up in the fridge. The top cup had to be filled with ice every day or so. The next cup down contained the seeds, and the ice cold melt water from above dripped down through them, soaking them like a spring thaw. The bottom cup was the one without holes, and it should be deeper than the others so that it can catch the water dripping down through the other two. This set up was able to hold several hundred seeds at a time. Because the seeds never stood in stagnant water, microbe growth was pretty minimal. I left the wintered seeds in the fridge for about 2 months before I tried planting, but it's possible less time would also work. My signal that the seeds were ready to plant was when they started to split and reveal the endosperm, but they may be viable even before this. It could be as little as a couple of weeks (or even less). I got a consistent 66% germination rate from this cup (stored in fridge, with ice changes every day) for the next 9 months of plantings. I did not need to change the seeds out, but I did need to remove them every few months and rinse away some minor threads of mold (this mold didn't seem to hurt them at all, as I said, 66% germination was pretty consistent for the whole time of storage). The seedlings grow pretty well in low light and they don't seem to require a dark period. I did first transplant after about a month (~3 inches tall) and 2nd transplant after another month (~5-6 inches). Then they spent a year outdoors in deep pots before I put them in the ground (~9-12 inches). I lost a few to newbie caretakers but other than that; they're all still going strong.
Too wet & too cramped bro. They need more space, should you get them to root it's going to become a tangled mess underneath the soil, when you try to separate them the roots are more likely to get damaged & they are extremely fragile & susceptible to shock when they're young. Plus there's no height, you need 'head space' for them to keep air moving around & to give them some room. I think you may end up (as you said) with a "big block of mold"......But them again I've never tried to root evergreens, my experience is with other types of clones. I've ALWAYS found 'Grow Cubes' to be an excellent medium for cloning along with the rooting compound... Good luck brother. Oh & make your light source adjustable, it gets hotter than you'd think & they are EXTREMELY fragile & they've already been put through hell with all the trauma to their stems so over doing the heat with too much light is a death sentence.....& ALWAYS cut the stems on an angle for better absorption of nutrients.
joey dubbs76 good point on spacing, wider let's air around the foliage too but can easily thin them as the unrooted cuttings brown off. Even if tangled, roots can be sorted before potting on bare root. Young trees will regenerate broken roots when bare rooted faster than older trees. I'm sure Cody has packed them in just to engage people here :) He has quite a bit of experience with cuttings.
lmao ohhhh yeaaa my dude??? was thinking the same stuff but then again when ive gotten baby trees from the lumber company in mass. they were sent in blocks of something other than the material of grow cubes...and just a tube hole with soil where they were standing. Was strange not sure what it all meant but had over 5,000 of a variety sent to me that way. prob half inch of space tho.
I'm actually finishing up a horticulture class right now where we did a lot of propagations similar to this, though we did not do any pine trees. One thing my professor said was to always remove all flowers (which you didn't have to worry about) and most of the leaves (needles, in this case) from the stems. This is so that the little plants will not be struggling to keep so many leaves alive before they have functioning roots, and can focus their stored energy on growing the new root systems. These little pieces of stems don't need more than a few leaves each. I don't know enough to know if you have too many needles left on those stems or not. Maybe someone who actually has experience propagating conifers can add to this. Your setup looks great and I can't wait to see how it goes!
To clone I use root cubes in a dome and tray. Use an electric warming mat under the tray with 1/4 inch of water. Cut the stem of he clone at a 45 degree angle and then split the stem 1/2 inch up. Dip in water, rooting powder, water and again into rooting powder. Then stick the clone into the root cube and place in tray. Keep the clones at 95% humidity and temperature between 85-90 degrees. Don't let them dry out maintain 1/4 inch of water in the tray and they will root 1-2 weeks. Then transfer to 16 ounce pots with potting soil for 2 weeks before planting out side.
i couldn't tell which exact austrian pines those were, but here in Slovenia (greetings btw ;) ), we have red and black pines. the one leaf pine was really interesting tho, and i agree on your theory that it's because of the lack of water. i'd love to have a few cuttings myself but i live on a whole another continent haha.
its actually pretty important blue wave lengths hold the most energy and helps the plant grow quickly. shop LED lights are pretty bad for plants they have very narrow wavelengths that oftin miss what the plants need. high CRI lights include more of these wavelengths but this is why they have those purple looking grow lights that are LED chips designed for this task
Daylight white led lights work great for the carnivorous plants I grow in my room. I would be more concerned about air circulation and mineral buildup from tap water.
It's not required, but it is part of the photosynthetically active spectrum so it's not bad to have it either. Fun Fact: Most greenhouses are UV-shielding. Source: Professional Gardener.
My pop had a Christmas tree farm and he would root various trees and shrubs. He would remove the bark about an inch (All of them at once), then dip the bundle of them in "Sprite" (yes, the soda, it added a little sugar to start and made them sticky so the rooting compound would stick better) and he let them dry a little before dipping in rooting hormone. When putting them in the dirt, he did just like planting trees but using a popsicle stick instead of a tree planter. Make the hole, drop the cutting in, make another hole nearby and push the dirt to close the cuttings hole. Easy, quick, he had good results. one problem is, since all of them are cuttings from the same tree, if you get disease in one, it doesn't have to change any to infect another, even a miniscule genetic difference is often enough to thwart many diseases and pests. Good luck, Stick twice as many as you need and plant a slightly different times. Take care. Tootles... Wade
The air pump won't be of much help I think. In fact you should be careful not to over-supply air, or the roots will "air-prune". Sticking the air pump's outlet into a bucket of cool water used to feed the cuttings should be more effective to supply oxygen to the roots. As for the lighting period I would dial in 18h of light + 6h of darkness, more light = more growth,. You could experiment with the timing, most plants grow faster when switched to shorter light periods as this simulates winter time, aka time for plants to put as much effort into preparing for winter survival.
You're right. The air pumps will do little to fight the mold spores that are already on the trees, and that's where the risk lies from my experience... the leaves want to photosynthesize, which takes energy away from root generation. At the same time they're in a closed system absorbing CO2 because they're a carbon-based life form and they need that from somewhere... but what happens when they run out of CO2 and the oxygen levels spiral out of control? Well, that's kind of like what would happen to you if you sucked on the end of a tailpipe... not good! Still, cutting a leaf here and there to reduce perspiration losses of water is a better idea than putting the cutting in a closed system, from my experience...
I can't believe how many fields of interest Cody has and so many are ridiculously creative. I also am amazed at the comments from everyone with their levels of expertise (and humor :-)
We have Eastern White Cedar here and I managed to collect a ton of seed autumn 2017. I sprouted a few of them and many are doing well but I think I'll try rooting cuttings as well this year. I like your setup. It looks like it should work well. Have you thought about trying to air layer some of the mature trees off the ranch for next spring? I did that with my lemon tree and now I have 5 LOL
You're a treasure, Cody. The nuts of those native piñon pines were a major staple food for at least one of the tribes that inhabited your region. As I recall the story, families and individuals laid claim to specific groves of the trees, which resulted in something very much like real estate ownership; a concept supposedly not common among Native Americans. Restoring those trees seems to me wonderfully appropriate and well worth whatever effort success may require.
Hi, Cody, I used to be a professional gardener and still found it hard to root plants. one tip is that any green leaf should not touch the wet sides or top to your propagator box as there is a high chance that it will rot. mature wood cuttings usually need to be rooted for longer and at a cooler temperature.
The seeds are huge compared to our lodgepole pine ! Would using seed for tarts not be a better way to go ? Thanks bud and growing a forest is a noble thing ! I sure hope this all works out bud !
It might be a more sure-fire way to start, I agree. But during this time of year, like he said, it's highly unlikely to find any that are viable and not eaten by bugs.
@@kbosell3812 I think it is a great thing to try for sure. I worked as a crew boss collecting pine and other cones here in BC. Seeing how tiny the seed is was amazing. Our lodgepole cones only open with wildfire. Thusly only get opened every 100 years or so.
Seeds (from what I know) take a lot longer than cuttings to reach maturity. Though for what Cody's doing I don't think that matters too much. Not like his winter will kill young native plants.
Hey Cody, I’ve don’t have much experience in propagating saplings in particular, but I think you have way too much light on them. Typically you want to put cuttings in the dark for a while or at least very low light. Without roots, too much light will kill them. 12 hours is ok, but you would need less than half the light you are using. It’s hard to tell on video, but it looks like way too much. Since evergreens are slow growing anyway, you really only need a few watts worth of led for cloning and rooting.
Also 10:26 They look like standard LED units, which give out wavelengths that the human eye are sensitive to and not optimal for the plant Chlorophyl absorption spectra; red (600 - 700 nm), blue (400 - 500 nm), and far red (700 - 800 nm). Long-duration of red light (600 - 700 nm) has been suggested to accelerate and produce spindly growth which would be advantageous at this time.
@@Bushtailedwildcat I have not heard of using red light to root cuttings. You can use additional red light to flower plants during the flowering phase, but from what I have seen is excess red light produces terrible root growth. White light has never failed anyone. Stick with that. Don't complicate it. Red is absorbed well and plants respond to it best when it's in addition to other wavelengths. Don't try to choose specific colors. Plants do not tell the sun to adjust it's spectrum for their specific needs. Every time I have compared targeted spectrum lighting to white lighting, the plants always showed the most normality under white light.
CODY! Last year I successfully rooted evergreen clippings out of a christmas basket arrangement... used a gallon bucket... i" holes in top... polyfoam puck to place cuttings through... used a small pump in bucket and used spray emitters ... 30 mins on... 30 off... grow roots!
This was fun to watch because I'm doing similar things. You might want to try grow lights because they don't increase heat (so that reduces mold growth) and they give the full spectrum that plants need. I'm just finishing up my setup today for winter! I'm growing fruit trees.
I like these longer projects. Of course it's fun to see how it went right away, but I also thinks it's satisfying to kind of follow along. And it's always fun when a video pops up in the sub box and my reaction is something along the line of, "oh yeah I remember that. Awesome. I wonder how "project" goes."
When we do prop cuttings of hemp at the greenhouse we use plenty of airflow for the plant as a whole. Warm soil is also important recommend at least 65 degrees for the roots to develop well. A mister is on a timer to moisten the leaves as they take up the function of the roots while the plant forms a callus. Once the plant forms a callus and subsequent roots then you can begin watering as a normal plant ( through the soil). This is the method we use from hemp though. I would suspect at the very least you should have warm soil and air flow for the leaves or I fear you might develop a rot
As already said below, yeah you should favor a 18-6 lighting schedule...generally what I do when cloning (rooting cuttings). I have had some issues with mold and mildew though...for that opting for a little copper sulfate (bouillie bordelaise or bordeaux mixture) in the spray bottle once a month does the trick. They are young, small and fragile, I prefer to be preventive rather than struggle in fighting a loosing battle. Also, as said as well, with such a setup you should see some nice roots within 2-3 weeks. Just one question, with all of the problems that you've had with fires around your ranch, wouldn't it be wiser to plant some less resinous trees? I don't really know what type of vegetation is indigenous to your area but why not oaks and/or maples as well? I am aware that they may not be suited to the local climate which looks to be quite cold. Otherwise, cheers! great venture to plant some native trees.
Super interesting. Never tried cloning anything like this. Pinyon and Juniper lands are super interesting though and they provide a great wind break. Some of my favorite back country camps are in this type of area. Also bonus with Pinyon, trim up the low lying or dead branches to help them in future fires and the firewood you gain from them has an amazing smell. If you have never tried pinyon roasted stuff its amazing. It has a chocolate/caramel quality that reminds you of New Mexico.
I'm not sure but I'm assuming they have one needle because having a lower leaf surface area decreases the rate of evapotranspiration thus conserving water
Where Cody is in America trees don't need to worry about not getting much light (imagine clear skies 90% of the time) but there isn't a lot of water so yeah the benefit of conserving water should definitely outweigh photosynthesising less. Also plants don't need a lot of leaves to stay alive. I took a cutting from a berry in a bouquet (don't know what kind) and forgot to water for like a week. Now it only has most of one leaf photosynthesising (down from 8-10) and is starting to grow new leaves too.
@@danielf.7151 given how densely packed those needles tend to be, there's only so much needle surface area a tree will utilize to get light. Most of the needles below the outer layer already loose efficiency, but still give off the same amount of water the outer needles do. So more water loss for less light. Perhaps during winter months when there's less light they may have more needles to make up for the loss of light, but I wouldn't know that.
Hey Cody I think this project is great. I don’t know to much about trees but just to help your out come and get the most you should plant seeds now in doors to give them time over the winter to sprout
If his system is a closed loop, then yes, and this is what I thought earlier, but I assume it's not a closed loop. Additional CO2 would be helpful, as carbon-based life forms we need to get our carbon from somewhere; for us it's food, for plants it's the air... an enriched CO2 level might provide extra carbon for fibrous root growth. In a closed system with the plants intaking CO2 constantly eventually they would deplete it, then you have two compounding problems; the roots stop growing and if there's mold on the plant it has ideal conditions on a plant that can't grow or repair itself... I wonder who the winner in this closed system would be!
I really like your plant videos alot. keep it up cody and good to see the winter doesn't stop these klnd of videos. Althoigh my garden is now pretty much full of brown mush.
I did a bunch of pine tree cloning back in the 90's, the thing we found worked best was actually to scarify the tree bases or roots (we started by whacking them with axes) of selected mature trees in order to develop suckers. The mature trees had very small quantities of meristematic tissue in the tips of the branches (very high apical dominance on the straight mature trees we were targeting). In creating the root suckers we were creating large quantities of undifferentiated meristematic tissue (immature softwood basically) which had a far higher success rate with rooting/cloning. (we were targeting mature trees with proven growth patterns and disease resistance). I'm moderately certain that these trees will grow by root division in situ (It makes sense to me in the context of clumpy evergreen trees in a place prone to wild fires that they would regrow from roots left after a fire if the top soil is deep enough). If you can find strong lateral roots from mature trees then chucking a rock or even a drilled pvc pipe under a horizontal root (aiming for a root clump at each site), then scarifying and exposing sections so that they grow suckers and roots would potentially allow you to do root division once they have sprouted and rooted.
When it rains or snows the water will collect on this road. Make it at least 12 ft wide. Plant trees on the outside edge of the road. Use tree branches as full on the downhill side. Bury them. As they decay, the new roots will follow them. Lay out a pattern of interlocking triangles for the new roots to follow. In this way you will create a strong structure to hold your road and contour canals in place. If you do not have tree branches now, then you will get them latter as your forests grow.
hey, my father once told me that you are not supposed to cut em with scissors, but with a very sharp knive. otherwise the little vaines and stuff get damaged by the pressure of the scissors blades from both sides
I think that's only for soft stemmed plants. Evergreens are usually very stiff yet flexible and are adapted to take a beating. The cuttings would be fine. The only thing Cody has to worry about is the production of resin at the area of the cut, because it can negate all use of propagating the cutting.
Probably not a big deal anyway, since scar tissue in conjunction with lack of light seems to form roots for most plants from my experience... and we're talking about pine trees, too, which I can see videos of root pruning on the topic of... they get mechanised spades on tractors and plow straight through all of that filthy soil, gouging it into the root systems... sacrilege, huh? But the roots form such healthy balls without rot or disease! Hmmmmm... The issue would surely be where to take the cut, then... before or after the node? Do you need a non-terminating tip, or is it like spinach, where it seems you can grow an entire plant from 1 square cm of leaf?
Technically I'm a state certified florist (from my high school floral design class lmao), I always just cut em with scissors and they seem to have the expected lifespans. Might not really matter.
@CodysLab I grow cannabis. For my crops, I use 14-18 hours of "daylight" during the vegetative cycle (growth), and 12 hours for the bloom/flowering cycle. When I cut clones to root like you did, temperature and humidity are the most important factors, so no matter the light schedule, try to keep the temperatures on target. I'm excited to see your results to duplicate them on my own semi-arid property in southern Oregon.
You should not dunk the cuttings into the rooting compound container. It will contaminate it. You should pour some into a shot glass to dunk you cutting in.
@@CanadianArchaeologist Stuff growing in the tree. It could have a sickness that has not shown itself yet. Thus you would contaminate every cutting you from that one on.
Okay, you're right, but only because I think you don't even need the rooting compound to begin with... I think if he took clones using a layering method, he might get some massive clones with near 100% success rate in a months time, and without a rooting compound.
With the exception of the Arborvitae those are some hard trees to propagate from cuttings. My parents had a greenhouse operation, and i swear my dad could get a pressure treated 2x4 to root... but in my own experience, some of the evergreens are really hard. I was trying for about 5 years straight to get American Holly propagated, and out of several hundred cuttings per year, I had only about 1% success rate, and even they failed to thrive by a year or two later. I like what your doing, and feel success will pivot on something very minor. Personally, I prefer to mist on a schedule and let the roots drain well and potentially add a little heat. I also prefer to use separate plug trays so I don't disturb roots and I feel it helps stop mold to a degree. If you have trouble, another propagation technique I'd try is try rooting on the live tree. You prep the stem and make a ball of soil-less mix that you wrap around the cutting with a mesh. Once it generates roots, you can cut it off the tree and replant it. Obviously, this can be a logistical problem on someone else's tree, especially trying to keep the soil balls moist. Good luck.
One tip that maybe helpful: When making the "root" area of the cuttings.. (granted i have no experience with hard tissue cuttings) I might suggest using an scalpel, or similar knife. Instead of just pulling/ knocking the leafs off. From my experience with other types of cuttings... minimizing the amount of torn tissue/ frills is best in avoiding rot to the rooting zone of the cutting. Im about 99% sure you may have thought of this.. I skimmed through some comments (not all) and didnt see this.. also to the light cycle conversation.. really anything from 12-24 will suffice from what I have come to understand.. Anyway hope this helped, if it was needed.. Also jealous, I cant find that rooting hormone around here anymore.. Which sucks.. I have always had good success rates using it.. Even way back in high-school in the greenhouse. Cheers
Tissue culture might be an interesting project for Cody to work on.
Edit: oh wow okay some quick advice about cuttings.
1. Use bypass cutters they damage the stems less.
2. When "scraping" the cuttings the idea is to expose the cambium underneath the dermis think of it as whittling off about 1thou from the outside.
3. Don't dip into your source container of root hormone pour a tiny amount into a small container (I use a shot glass). This helps you prevent the spread of disease.
4. That store bought stuff is crap buy a liquid mixture that you dillute to get your desired strength. The bottle will often have recommendations for different types of plants.
5 your humidity box is decent however you should see signs of rooting in roughly two weeks. Once you have rooting you need to get them out of that humid zone as the chance for disease is outrageously high.
6. You may want to decrease the intensity of the light and increase the time it's on. Photosynthesis is a water consuming reaction and at the moment the plant has no true way to take on water.
Good advice in here. Second the less intense light with more time. You want to use the humidity until they start rooting and then get ventilation going so you don't get disease. Just don't go suddenly from the humidity environment to no cover. Take the cover off for increasing amounts of time each day to acclimate them to the low humidity environment
@@soccer2themax Thanks man and the humidity lessening in stages makes sense I do all mine in a green house with a mist table so I didn't even think of it.
I was thinking, too. If you let them rooting they might knotting up because they are so near by each other?
@@lol785612349 if he keeps them in there for a month or two they almost certainly would.
@White Rice I doubt it would change anything really. I do my cuttings in an open bottom flat that I soak with water.
20 years later on Cody'sLab: Terraforming Mars part 1
Would be a pretty good theory video(series) with some practical experiments. :D
*Gets back into spacecraft after first mission*"Oh looks like a bee made it over here"
... Unfortunately, this project will take about 50 years. I know, I hate youtubers do that myself, but I'll cut the video now. But I need your feedback guys, because if I did something terribly wrong, I want to know it NOW. =)
@@Aisaaax every split video just means one more video promised for later.
In collaboration with Everyday Astronaut :)
I love your planting and bee videos. Three suggestions:
1) Instead of a rag you also can use some geo fleece or an insect screen.
2) Cut the cuttings in an steeper angle to expose more tissue to the soil. (Stick it in powdered charcoal, or a mix of charcoal-hormone powder and let it dry for 20 minutes or so.)
3) If you remove more leaves or needles you will reduce evaporation.
Greetings from Austria! (I hope our pines will make it!)
Hi Cody, just some small tips from my own experiencess: to make some good plant cuttings you need to keep in mind that there are no roots on them so they need to get water in a different way in the beginning. Propagate them in a high humidity and do not keep the ground to wet to prevent rotting. Normally you will see roots in 2-3 weeks and you can start watering them normally. Also with the light regimen: you have to emulate the cycle of the sun. 12 hours is kinda short and mostly resembles the autumn/winter periode of a plant.
Anyways, it's always fun to see your vid's. Cheers and good luck
12 hours of light is winter? where do you live?
robbert0891 ive heard that in the beginning you shouldnt keep the lights on for too long since it stresses the plants until they have solid roots
I agree. 12 hour light cycle may be to short. 14 to 16 is best. I also use led lights bulbs that have a spectrum of light special for plants.
Also using a coconut shell, sand mixture for the soil could do really well at stopping mold. I've done very very little growing plants from cuttings, but the coconut moss is what held back mold on my only successful attempt
Hahaha it might indeed be confusing but you also have to count the twillight hours with that. This is wat is "normally" used but i can inmagine that there are plant species that have a different cycle either way up north or south.
I'll be following this closely. Might try this myself for some uncommon species in my area.
Well, if you start enough "1-year-wait projects", eventually we'll constantly see new projects start and previous projects end. So it's still a nice variety of content. And they're all well worth the wait :)
Jan Tuts i agree, 1 year wait projects do suit this channel really well, especially ones like this where even 2 or even 3 years from now we can see the fruits of the project throughout videos.
@@teldrynsero6791 Exactly! It also gives some proper weight to the projects: "Remember those cuttings I planted in a box last year? Well now they're saplings, ready to plant!" and then a few years later: "Look at this here grove, it's some of those cuttings I planted several years ago."
Pipelining!
I do believe that the Federal Government has a special program to aid in reforestation. They supply the seedlings and you plant.
I wonder how much money that little known program receives
Not so fast! Our idiot president just threatened to cut funding to the Dep't of Forestry, since he is blaming them for the wildfires. The wildfires happened in part because of existing underfunding, so I don't know how much longer that service will be around, unfortunately.
@@solofoe probably the federal law is removed, like many other environmental laws
But where's the fun in that
I don't think that the government gives a crap
Cody called and caught that bee like it was a friendly neighbourhood dog 😂
It was just looking for daddy. . .
He got stung hundreds of times as a beekeeper, in a single day. Not fussed.
The bees like him.
I do the same haha never had a fear of being stung but have never actually been stung so :)
That's a beekeeper thing. My granddad used to talk to his bees like that.
Every time that Cody'sLab notification bell rings, and angel gets it's wings! 😇
Seems like you really are everywhere Jesus.
This channel goes completely against religion though, he uses logic in his videos...
@@megatobias wellllll
@@antonhelsgaun Ye I checked his channel after tbh the masturbation was was hella funny those poor people
Even Jesus loves science! Please tell your followers too, Jesus! 😉
These reforestation videos are fantastic!
it's almost like you're documenting real life, not fifteen minute snippets of content created for clicks.
I prefer it this way. Though I've never rooted trees before...every time I clone something, it's in a liquid bath, no soil. I'll be looking for the update, in six months or so, to see how this works out.
Thats kind of what its alway been like...he just does his projects on the family ranch and areas hes studied and dociments them to youtube...not caring too much about views
@@adam418g Yup...I've been watching this content for years.
Hi to any other Aussies out there having a giggle at theses guys trying to root trees.
It sucks the ranch is deforested, but it's actually kinda sweet you decided to just up and plant some trees someday.
Well you cant let them grow all around
This is really flamible
Also he had a fire on his ranch before
@@emelgiefro numerous times
It's like that dr Seuss animated movie.
Man, who'd have thought a fucking youtube video on planting trees would get so political.
You republicunts just have to fight over _something,_ no matter how benign. You guys are pricks. You're also not going to sway Cody with your incessant bickering, so just shut the fuck up and go back to Gab.
@@noanoxan A little quick on the trigger there, aren't you? No one in this chain was fighting over anything. As a matter of fact, you were the most contentious person in this chain. Ease up a bit, OK?
*I hope to see them grow big and populate the ranch!*
A few tips from making mistakes myself with rooting , add some dividers or buy a small tray of pots at the gardening store else the roots get tangled all the way up and with soft roots like the ones you will get at the start , they will break off easily while replanting the rooted cuttings , lowering the chance of succes.
Also maybe add some springtails already or if you see mold forming it will aid with slowing it down or completly removing it!
btw wondering are those special grow lights or just white 40w LED strips? because if i remember right (its been a while since i learned about plant lighting) you should prefarably have a combination of blue and red light.(see profesional grow lights in greenhouses)
also cutting the cuttings at a 45° - 75° angle should help with optimizing the surface area of the rootable layer in the cuttings. (couldn't see in the video if you did that)
Yeah you're right about purple light. Plants absorb it most effectively.
I'd use woodlice instead of springtails. Springtails are known to eat the softer roots of plants, which won't kill the cuttings but will slow their progress.
I think he knows about the red & blue lights when growing plants because that is how he grew mushrooms in his Cody's Mine series.
For LED growing lights, I would recommend using Horticulture Lighting Group's quantum boards. Some soldering handiness is required for assembly but you can't get more efficient grow lights for less. Couldn't be happier with mine.
Perhaps tomatoes might grow best using that spectrum... those dark, dark leaves need some plenty of blue and the flowers and fruiting needs red... but in vegetative state, daylight or even warm white should be fine... He's not trying to grow fruit; he's trying to stimulate root growth. He could do that with the weak, refracted light source from his bathroom window if he wanted to.
I’d science it: add a few cheap sensors to monitor heat and humidity in your trays.
Also, six months is egregious. Should be ready in weeks, maybe a couple months max before needing transplant.
Typically cuttings are placed several inches apart. You’ll likely end up with a solid mat of roots if you’re even a fraction as successful as you’d like. I would highly suggest an early intervention-check in a week or two and once they’re starting to bind the medium, move to larger containers.
Also, a warming mat and rockwool cubes can significantly speed progress in the future.
Anyway, you’re awesome (incredible verve and breadth of skill) and this is one of the best channels - best of luck with your little trees :).
Cody, have you contacted the Utah forestry service? They can send out foresters to advise you on bringing back trees. Great resource for cheap ready to plant saplings
Then he wouldn't be making such awesome videos for us to see.
I think he mentioned why he didn't use government resources for his project in his last reforesting video.
Several years ago and fifty miles south of Cody (but still in Utah), I attempted to use the forest service to replant an area deforested by fire. After two months of working with several different agencies, I gave up. Way too much bureaucracy.
@@Molb0rg reforesting the canyon is what its called or something similar its several videos back now
@@killingtimeitself
>didn't use government resources
>government
that is what surprised me, because the expenses and it needs to train to not have loss and stuff - that I have heard
Thanks for sharing your experiments, you are a man after my own heart with two exceptions, one is you actually do instead of endless dreaming about it, and two you go on camera to teach. If you can get pine from cuttings to root you are awesome.
I find one of the most important variables to rooting cuttings is to reduce the leaf area to the bare minimum, typically 3 of the very youngest, smallest leaves out near the growing tip. It needs enough leaf to carry on photosynthesis enough to keep everything flowing in the plant so it can stay as healthy as possible so the amount of leaf area is somewhat relative to the total size of the cutting and the light intensity. You were right to immediately put the stems in water, but to take the same reasoning one step further cut them longer when you collect and then when you are ready to plant cut them again at a 45deg angle about an inch above the initial cut using the sharpest knife you can come up with. Do this cut underwater and keep it there for a couple of seconds, this step is to prevent air embolism in the cutting impeding uptake of water. This seems to be more important with older woody stems like the ones you are trying here.
Next thing is to find shoots that have the nodes reasonably close together and you want about 3 nodes under the soil. It can help to carefully thin the skin(bark) around the nodes. More means more chances for roots to form but also more tissue to support and higher rot risk.
Soil pH try neutral 7 and a half on either side to dial in what seems to do better.
No fertilizer for cuttings, they wont need it until they are actively growing roots and new leaves, and without roots they are sorely limited in their ability to maintain internal chemistry so that chemical salts do more harm than good. Just need available water.
Temperature; the warmer it is the faster everything happens making it harder to control. But below some temperature the plant is not active enough to defend itself from pathogens. Most plants effectively stop sub 55F and above 80 your rootless plants cant take up enough water to make it.
So right around comfortable for you is about right for the cuttings, 70-78. And for details it usually works better to have a few degrees warmer soil than the air. And some say that the difference between temp during light and temp during dark needs to vary about 10 degrees, but my attempts have never been that controlled to opine. You are naturally going to get that to some extent when the lights are on.
You are right about the mold thing, that looks way too wet, shoot for maybe a little bit of condensation down in the corners, 90-95% humidity. You want NO water on the leaves or you risk rot. If you see a water droplet on a leaf soak it up with the corner of paper towel. In that regard it helps to have a cover that is shaped 45degree angle or steeper so that any water that condensates will run to a predictable location so it does not drip on the plants.
I think you have way more light than optimum for rooting cuttings, half that would probably be better which can be accomplished easily by raising the lights a few inches. And if you have a choice in color spectrum more blue/ less red seems to be beneficial for young plants and cuttings.
IBA rooting powder is a good first try but some things do better without it and if you are splitting hairs the dosage is important.
Woody cuttings take longer so I would try toward the cooler end regarding temperature, about 72F to buy more time to develop roots.
If you can't find info on conditions for the specie you are trying or even a close relative, it is best to try many methods at the same time to increase your chances that one of them will succeed, then you know better what to do with the next batch.
I think the plant you are trying is one of the more challenging ones to succeed with so you will probably have to use every trick to it's fullest to find joy.
And lastly, you are probably way ahead to wait until next season and watch for when the seeds will come ripe but sometimes the rigors of the quest are more satisfying than the arrival at the destination.
Rock on!
Insane Rodent Posse lol
He said that with such confidence and history
What is rodents possie?
@@royk7712 Why a posse of rodents of course
Posse*
Thanks for fixing it :)
insane rodent possum
did I do a funny
Note on rewatching this and getting heavily into bonsai and yamadori [mountain/wild collecting]
When you dig up trees, you want to dig 4-5 times the width of the trunk away, and then dig down and under. You can then saw off the taproot.
With conifers you don't want to get rid of too much soil on the feeder roots, since they are particularly dependent on mycelium.
Also pulling of the needles should be enough damage to the stem to stimulate root growth
Seeing this video in my subfeed made me smile so hard because it reminded me of all those months spent with my Dad re planting trees on his land
it used to be heavily treed scrubland, but when he got it it was just covered by nothing but feral lavender, but now it is all clear and native grasses with one tree atleast every 10 metres.. it is beautiful
Thank you Cody
Kyan that’s really cool!
@@samuelscott7646 Those were honestly some of the best months of my life, the feeling of accomplishment every time I see the trees on his property makese me want to move out to the middle of nowhere and fix up an old farming block
@@DuckcuD Ha, I don't mind lavender... the smell, and it attracts bees, and reminds me of a special place... but I get it, it's not for everyone, and it's certainly not the only thing one would want on their land (unless they're a little bit wacky, if you know what I mean)... I'd rather have peanuts than lavender coming up everywhere, myself...
@@sebastianramadan8393 There is nothing wrong with lavender in principal.. but when it has strangled out all other plant life and is not native.. it becomes a problem for the wildlife and a huge fire risk because of its high oil content
.
It is so great of you to undertake this project. Perhaps one of the most noble actions a human could take. I wondered as I watched this, if the cuttings could be individually rooted in separate little containers--perhaps like those little water bottles that roses come in from the flower shop--but I imagine it would be much more difficult to get enough oxygen into them. Looking forward to more on this, thanks Cody!
Pro tip. Coniferous trees have a higher success rate if the cutting is done from a heal cutting. Heal cuttings are done by pulling a small piece down from a stem leaving a small heal at the bottom. Typical length should be about 4.5 inch leaving the growing tip intact. These will take about 4-5 months to be ready to plant out. Other varieties may root quicker and be ready sooner than others but would be better left until they are all ready so to avoid damaging the other plants roots. I hope this helps.
I have a lot of experence rooting all types of cuttings (but haven't done conifers). I would do away with the air gap and air pump as it's likely to dry the root zone. Instead I'd control the moisture level of the media and sit the containers on heating pads (you can get cheap ones from China that have controllable heat output, maybe stick a probe in to check temps - or even use a controller). Roots grow best when provided with bottom heat.
Also keep the light levels fairly low at first as you don't want the plants using all of their available nutrients for top growth - you just need enough light to keep them ticking over. Open the containers several times a week to either vent moisture or spritz depending on how damp they are. Good luck! A noble project.
I look forward to the update video in spring, I'll be patient. I would love to see reforestation become a trend.
is it spring yet?!?!
These plantings will provide homes in the future for our future. It's a beautiful thing!
I love this reforestation series you got going on, keep up the good work
Love that you saved the bee!
I've read that it's best to first poke the hole in the soil and then pack around the cutting instead of stabbing it into the soil which scrapes off the rooting compound.
I hope these cuttings take root. We're all rooting for you!
Well if they don't, I'm sure he'll get to the ROOT of the problem! ;)
@@MrBrew4321 If this design doesn't work maybe he needs to redesign the build. I'm sure he can ROOT around his storage for containers
I AM ROOT!
Boo.
Another completely fascinating video for a totally worthwhile project. It's good to see somebody doing something that just isn't a 'quick fix', but is for the long term. Good work!
Cannabis growers use 12 hours of light to induce flowering. 18 hours of light may be less stressful on these trees.
Nice
somehow I think he knows this.....
Prop 2 passed in Utah! Cody should start a cannabis grow. :D
When attempting to stimulate root growth, trust me, you can do this with the weak, refracted light from your bathroom window. In fact, if you tried this in direct full day sunlight, those cuttings would all die! I would have probably trimmed those cuttings quite a bit more, too. Less leaves = less perspiration, which is an important factor for cloning, up to a point. I'd wager he's got more than enough light there, but unless Cody works out a solution to control mildew, that might hit him... I don't like sealing cuttings up for this reason, every time they seem to get mildew for me... I tried some basil yesterday, mildew within a day... cut the mildew leaf off, pop it in a vase with some hydrogen peroxide and it's firm and fresh with a bit of what might be a problem soon at the "root section" (that stem is an off-white, rather than a healthy green)... I think tonight I'll use aspirin water... swap from base to acid, then to neutral, boiled (but cooled to room temp) water and that should shock the mold enough while simultaneously stimulating an immune reaction in the "root section" of the cutting... I hope... I've been toying with cloning for a while, now, and I can tell you amount of light is REALLY not a big deal.
If every village in the world has one Cody, the world would be a better place. This is this is the major project that I am planning to do when I find some more time to spend at my grandparents' village in the steppes of Turkey. That is so inspiring.
You could try air layering some branches which will give you larger trees more quickly. It would also make an interesting video for people who don't know what air layering is.
Fingers crossed for those pinion and junipers restoring the land is such a great goal.
And as someone who grew up in the southwest I can't help but have a warm spot for a good looking pinion tree.
Maybe they will root better if you "rip" them from the main branch and leave a little bit of "old wood" at the base of the cutting, at least that's what we learn in school as a gardener in germany
The heel. ✅️
Other channels cant even come close to the quality of your videos man, very inspiration to do stuff like this. Hiking around the hills collecting cuttings for reforesting definitely inst the worst way you can spend a day.
Well, that's just your pinyon, man.
LOL!
Great video, always interesting especially the difference between the branches of Junipers of different ages.
Nice little boxes of green amazing life! Evergreens are my favorite, such different but vibrant green shades!
I only have very faint knowledge from growing a couple of trees from seedlings myself, but maybe this helps:
We used to keep the cuttings singled out and not in one big box like you did. We made little rooting pots out of cut in half small plastic water bottles. Drill some holes in the bottom, put in the cut of head in reverse, also some holes in there for the airflow, a paper towel at the bottom to stop the dirt from falling out.
Then a wannabe new tree into it and cover it up a bag or some cling wrap to keep moist.
That way, when one of them went sick or caught some mold the others were still save in their own little bottle.
Thats really the way to go on a reasonably small scale, but with that much cuttings it might get a bit inpractical. Maybe putting the cuttings in a pot and put the pots in the case, gives plenty time to spot starting rot in my experiance.
That would help with seperation to.
Hi Cody,
Few suggestions/ tips,
1. Most plants species loses the ability to root as they mature, thus you should use only the juveniles (I mean from juvenile plant, not juvenile branch from mature plant)
In some cases it is possible to restore juvenility by heavy pruning, girdling or by grafting mature branch to juvenile plant (the stock should give its juvenile properties to the shoot).
2. I would suggest to try layering as well. that way there is no chance that the branch will dry out (and it is a cool method :) )
3. Cut the part of the leaves (needles) of your cuttings. It will reduce transpiration and water lose.
4. Aerated bed works best. Try adding Vermiculite or Styrofoam. (or the oxygen pump will work.... never tried that one)
5. Keep it warm. 20-30 °C is optimal.
6. Open the lids at night. It will reduce the risk of developing mold. Spray water again at day time.
Keep up with your awesome vids!!
There most be a company in the US that sells ready to plant trees. Prices vary from 5 cents up to 15 cents depending on age/size/spices here in Sweden. The difference in our forestry industries can't be that big?
Ursäkta men vart kan man skaffa det? Hittar inte stället du pekar på.
Well if there is no market for it, we should start one. Offering helpful and rare trees, like you said ready to plant, specified for the wanted area. It would be a good concept that could reach a nice scale, to make prizes even cheaper.
Non-profit of course.
Hey Cody, Ive been documenting the regrowth of Michigan’s forest, since it is still recovering from the logging era, over 100 years ago if you can believe it. These videos of reforesting your ranch have to be some of my favorite videos on your channel!
You should set your lights to 18/6. You want to veg your trees on a summer schedule. Also try to keep your grow room temperature around 80 degrees fahrenheit.
This will be very interesting to see how it works out and I look forward to a spring update.
The heat from the lights *might* damage the cuttings. If you see any heat burn just raise the lights a couple inches.
It looks like the lights are LED. No concern about heat since each one of the individual leds are
12/12 is for flowering.. Usually run clones on 18/6 or 24 hour light/dark cycles. This also applies for things like sweet peas, tomatoes and whatever else you may grow indoors.
SerpaDesign
Has a ton of videos that might have quite a bit of information on keeping the plants healthy in their cases. Springtails will help with the mold, but may cause minor damage to the roots.
That's funny, I was going to suggest him too
Hey Cody, love your new project! I've run a few common garden experiments for research and I just wanted to let you know that using coconut coir over peat moss really helps prevent mold from taking over your rootings. It's also a lot more sustainable than peat moss so it's more environmentally friendly to use. Love your channel, never stop learning!
Im not sure about america and where you live specifically but where i live in Australia we have re-forresting "organisations" that grow trees from cuttings and seeds they go out with local schools to plant trees would be great if you have something like that near you if you could do a video of thier set up and planting also possibly get some advice/help
The same in South Africa except they give away the tree to students to plant in their own gardens. We don't have forests in my area.
When i root cuttings in the winter i leave my light on 16-18 hours depending on the plant species,any lower takes them a lot longer to root and the longer they take the chance of rot/mold gets higher.
Trees and especially Evergreens are a different ball game.The older the parent tree the longer they take to root,long cuttings take longer then shorter cuts,so take cuttings from young plants or new wood(this years growth).Cody your doing it right with the lighting times as your trying to get them out of there dormant winter state to a spring time lighting schedule,which will help the plant to grow roots .
I've propagated many herbaceous plants i was under the impression that pines have a main taproot. I wonder it the clones will form a main taproot also. I have had far less success using the rooting powder. It has a weak concentration of the rooting hormone. CloneX gel works very well
In my experience clones will never develop a tap root.
In my experience plants don't need the taproot even if they would naturally develop one.
If they need to root deeper they can do that without a taproot.
i.e. the tree probably won't care ;)
My understanding is you can only get a (true tap root) from a seed. That said you should still get a root ball strong enough to support the tree. As for the light cycle, and temperature, I would agree you need to mimic the time of year when tree growth is most active. I would also recomend putting a seedling heating pad under the dome, as to replicate the ground warming in spring. You can use a regular heating pad, but most have an auto shut off after a certain period.
Nothing a little creative wiring can't fix
I think only a seed can develop a tap root.
@Cody'sLab I have grown mass amounts of Arborvitae (thuja orientalis) from seed, with good results. The process involved a seed pod harvest around late September (as the pods began to lose their green, yet before they could dry out and open up). This was followed by a drying process. I gave mine 2 weeks of air drying indoors, but you could probably accelerate that with some ventilation. I imagine you could let them dry all the way out till they open up, but I pulled the seeds out of mine while they were still slightly green and sticky because it was easier to tell the difference between seed and pod before the pods browned. Starting from a Planter's peanut can full of green pods, I got probably 3000-4000 dry seeds after processing which I kept in a sealed can with some desiccant for long term storage.
Next, the seeds needed to have at least a few weeks of winter or they wouldn't germinate. I made my winter out of 3 cups stacked on top of each other: 2 cups had pin holes in the bottom, the 3rd was left unaltered. I used transparent plastic so I could see inside. I kept the whole set up in the fridge. The top cup had to be filled with ice every day or so. The next cup down contained the seeds, and the ice cold melt water from above dripped down through them, soaking them like a spring thaw. The bottom cup was the one without holes, and it should be deeper than the others so that it can catch the water dripping down through the other two. This set up was able to hold several hundred seeds at a time. Because the seeds never stood in stagnant water, microbe growth was pretty minimal.
I left the wintered seeds in the fridge for about 2 months before I tried planting, but it's possible less time would also work. My signal that the seeds were ready to plant was when they started to split and reveal the endosperm, but they may be viable even before this. It could be as little as a couple of weeks (or even less). I got a consistent 66% germination rate from this cup (stored in fridge, with ice changes every day) for the next 9 months of plantings. I did not need to change the seeds out, but I did need to remove them every few months and rinse away some minor threads of mold (this mold didn't seem to hurt them at all, as I said, 66% germination was pretty consistent for the whole time of storage).
The seedlings grow pretty well in low light and they don't seem to require a dark period. I did first transplant after about a month (~3 inches tall) and 2nd transplant after another month (~5-6 inches). Then they spent a year outdoors in deep pots before I put them in the ground (~9-12 inches). I lost a few to newbie caretakers but other than that; they're all still going strong.
Too wet & too cramped bro. They need more space, should you get them to root it's going to become a tangled mess underneath the soil, when you try to separate them the roots are more likely to get damaged & they are extremely fragile & susceptible to shock when they're young. Plus there's no height, you need 'head space' for them to keep air moving around & to give them some room. I think you may end up (as you said) with a "big block of mold"......But them again I've never tried to root evergreens, my experience is with other types of clones. I've ALWAYS found 'Grow Cubes' to be an excellent medium for cloning along with the rooting compound... Good luck brother. Oh & make your light source adjustable, it gets hotter than you'd think & they are EXTREMELY fragile & they've already been put through hell with all the trauma to their stems so over doing the heat with too much light is a death sentence.....& ALWAYS cut the stems on an angle for better absorption of nutrients.
joey dubbs76 good point on spacing, wider let's air around the foliage too but can easily thin them as the unrooted cuttings brown off. Even if tangled, roots can be sorted before potting on bare root. Young trees will regenerate broken roots when bare rooted faster than older trees. I'm sure Cody has packed them in just to engage people here :) He has quite a bit of experience with cuttings.
Or you could have a 1 by 2 section of EXTREMELY dense forest
lmao ohhhh yeaaa my dude??? was thinking the same stuff but then again when ive gotten baby trees from the lumber company in mass. they were sent in blocks of something other than the material of grow cubes...and just a tube hole with soil where they were standing. Was strange not sure what it all meant but had over 5,000 of a variety sent to me that way. prob half inch of space tho.
@@Yor_gamma_ix_bae not meant for long-term, just shipping.
*waiting for him to use that towel with alcohol*
why did he used it? i mean, for what?
I think the alcohol is for Cody, not the plants
@@Ultiminati
He used it to sterilize the knife he used to cut the little trees
You use the alcohol on the blade and scissors to reduce the risk of transferring disease between cuttings.
Everclear and Simply Grapefruit juice (or similar not from concentrate) is actually very tasty. Hides the alcohol very well.
I'm actually finishing up a horticulture class right now where we did a lot of propagations similar to this, though we did not do any pine trees. One thing my professor said was to always remove all flowers (which you didn't have to worry about) and most of the leaves (needles, in this case) from the stems. This is so that the little plants will not be struggling to keep so many leaves alive before they have functioning roots, and can focus their stored energy on growing the new root systems. These little pieces of stems don't need more than a few leaves each. I don't know enough to know if you have too many needles left on those stems or not. Maybe someone who actually has experience propagating conifers can add to this. Your setup looks great and I can't wait to see how it goes!
Looking forward to the update a year from now. Good Work Cody.
sadly next spring is NOT a year from now
Don't stop doing your thing! I love your channel so much. You help satisfy my thirst for knowledge!
To clone I use root cubes in a dome and tray. Use an electric warming mat under the tray with 1/4 inch of water. Cut the stem of he clone at a 45 degree angle and then split the stem 1/2 inch up. Dip in water, rooting powder, water and again into rooting powder. Then stick the clone into the root cube and place in tray. Keep the clones at 95% humidity and temperature between 85-90 degrees. Don't let them dry out maintain 1/4 inch of water in the tray and they will root 1-2 weeks. Then transfer to 16 ounce pots with potting soil for 2 weeks before planting out side.
weed?
Yes he is germinating the cannabis pinion
I've cloned bushes by just cuting stems and placing in potting soil. The method above would maximize root growth.
I am a huge fan of all your videos, and am especially fond of these reforestation efforts.
i couldn't tell which exact austrian pines those were, but here in Slovenia (greetings btw ;) ), we have red and black pines. the one leaf pine was really interesting tho, and i agree on your theory that it's because of the lack of water. i'd love to have a few cuttings myself but i live on a whole another continent haha.
Yea it's a great pine tree, pinyon pine seeds are delicious
There's something incredibly satisfying about this. Can't wait for update videos.
Polycarbonate blocks all the UV FYI, idk how necessary is it for saplings
its actually pretty important blue wave lengths hold the most energy and helps the plant grow quickly. shop LED lights are pretty bad for plants they have very narrow wavelengths that oftin miss what the plants need. high CRI lights include more of these wavelengths but this is why they have those purple looking grow lights that are LED chips designed for this task
Daylight white led lights work great for the carnivorous plants I grow in my room. I would be more concerned about air circulation and mineral buildup from tap water.
It's not required, but it is part of the photosynthetically active spectrum so it's not bad to have it either.
Fun Fact: Most greenhouses are UV-shielding.
Source: Professional Gardener.
My pop had a Christmas tree farm and he would root various trees and shrubs. He would remove the bark about an inch (All of them at once), then dip the bundle of them in "Sprite" (yes, the soda, it added a little sugar to start and made them sticky so the rooting compound would stick better) and he let them dry a little before dipping in rooting hormone. When putting them in the dirt, he did just like planting trees but using a popsicle stick instead of a tree planter. Make the hole, drop the cutting in, make another hole nearby and push the dirt to close the cuttings hole. Easy, quick, he had good results. one problem is, since all of them are cuttings from the same tree, if you get disease in one, it doesn't have to change any to infect another, even a miniscule genetic difference is often enough to thwart many diseases and pests. Good luck, Stick twice as many as you need and plant a slightly different times. Take care. Tootles... Wade
The air pump won't be of much help I think. In fact you should be careful not to over-supply air, or the roots will "air-prune". Sticking the air pump's outlet into a bucket of cool water used to feed the cuttings should be more effective to supply oxygen to the roots.
As for the lighting period I would dial in 18h of light + 6h of darkness, more light = more growth,. You could experiment with the timing, most plants grow faster when switched to shorter light periods as this simulates winter time, aka time for plants to put as much effort into preparing for winter survival.
You're right. The air pumps will do little to fight the mold spores that are already on the trees, and that's where the risk lies from my experience... the leaves want to photosynthesize, which takes energy away from root generation. At the same time they're in a closed system absorbing CO2 because they're a carbon-based life form and they need that from somewhere... but what happens when they run out of CO2 and the oxygen levels spiral out of control? Well, that's kind of like what would happen to you if you sucked on the end of a tailpipe... not good! Still, cutting a leaf here and there to reduce perspiration losses of water is a better idea than putting the cutting in a closed system, from my experience...
I can't believe how many fields of interest Cody has and so many are ridiculously creative. I also am amazed at the comments from everyone with their levels of expertise (and humor :-)
We have Eastern White Cedar here and I managed to collect a ton of seed autumn 2017. I sprouted a few of them and many are doing well but I think I'll try rooting cuttings as well this year.
I like your setup. It looks like it should work well.
Have you thought about trying to air layer some of the mature trees off the ranch for next spring? I did that with my lemon tree and now I have 5 LOL
You're a treasure, Cody.
The nuts of those native piñon pines were a major staple food for at least one of the tribes that inhabited your region. As I recall the story, families and individuals laid claim to specific groves of the trees, which resulted in something very much like real estate ownership; a concept supposedly not common among Native Americans. Restoring those trees seems to me wonderfully appropriate and well worth whatever effort success may require.
Captain Cody...He's a Hero!
Gonna take Deforestation down to Zero!
Hi, Cody, I used to be a professional gardener and still found it hard to root plants. one tip is that any green leaf should not touch the wet sides or top to your propagator box as there is a high chance that it will rot.
mature wood cuttings usually need to be rooted for longer and at a cooler temperature.
The seeds are huge compared to our lodgepole pine ! Would using seed for tarts not be a better way to go ? Thanks bud and growing a forest is a noble thing ! I sure hope this all works out bud !
It might be a more sure-fire way to start, I agree. But during this time of year, like he said, it's highly unlikely to find any that are viable and not eaten by bugs.
@@kbosell3812 I think it is a great thing to try for sure. I worked as a crew boss collecting pine and other cones here in BC. Seeing how tiny the seed is was amazing. Our lodgepole cones only open with wildfire. Thusly only get opened every 100 years or so.
Seeds (from what I know) take a lot longer than cuttings to reach maturity. Though for what Cody's doing I don't think that matters too much. Not like his winter will kill young native plants.
Oh, it would definitely be a good thing to try. Maybe a future video, since he may want to expand his horizons if this attempt is successful
@@Direblade11 I think it is a great project. Should we be doing cuttings instead of seed cone collection ? Possibilities are endless eh.
I love the long-term projects. I sort of forget about them and then am very excited when they come around again.
Love ya stuff bud
Hey Cody, I’ve don’t have much experience in propagating saplings in particular, but I think you have way too much light on them. Typically you want to put cuttings in the dark for a while or at least very low light. Without roots, too much light will kill them. 12 hours is ok, but you would need less than half the light you are using. It’s hard to tell on video, but it looks like way too much. Since evergreens are slow growing anyway, you really only need a few watts worth of led for cloning and rooting.
Also 10:26 They look like standard LED units, which give out wavelengths that the human eye are sensitive to and not optimal for the plant Chlorophyl absorption spectra; red (600 - 700 nm), blue (400 - 500 nm), and far red (700 - 800 nm).
Long-duration of red light (600 - 700 nm) has been suggested to accelerate and produce spindly growth which would be advantageous at this time.
@@Bushtailedwildcat I have not heard of using red light to root cuttings. You can use additional red light to flower plants during the flowering phase, but from what I have seen is excess red light produces terrible root growth. White light has never failed anyone. Stick with that. Don't complicate it. Red is absorbed well and plants respond to it best when it's in addition to other wavelengths. Don't try to choose specific colors. Plants do not tell the sun to adjust it's spectrum for their specific needs. Every time I have compared targeted spectrum lighting to white lighting, the plants always showed the most normality under white light.
It's also not sunlight he's using. Weak UV content.
@@jy1235689 That's true. A little UV-C does help with disease control.
@@GrowingAnswers That makes sense, couldn't UV help with potential mold?
CODY! Last year I successfully rooted evergreen clippings out of a christmas basket arrangement... used a gallon bucket... i" holes in top... polyfoam puck to place cuttings through... used a small pump in bucket and used spray emitters ... 30 mins on... 30 off... grow roots!
I wonder how many of those little twigs that will survive and grow into actual trees later
We'll have to wait. It's like a Cody Christmas.
probably none, like all the fish died and so on.
This was fun to watch because I'm doing similar things. You might want to try grow lights because they don't increase heat (so that reduces mold growth) and they give the full spectrum that plants need. I'm just finishing up my setup today for winter! I'm growing fruit trees.
Cody, your whole channel is just real life Minecraft. Haha
this is so sad
@@Yor_gamma_ix_bae no this is not ... this is good ! More plants more oxygen, more life to come
@@aure_eti it's like fornite but worse
I'm thankfull for people like you, who take an effort!
Nice intro! Like it. New Year holidays soon)))
WARNING! I have 2 (!!!) dangerously HOT girlfriends and I show them off on my channel! Thanks for being jealous, dear
alexander
@@AxxLAfriku- Чувак из дурки сбежал походу)))
@@AxxLAfriku no one cares
I like these longer projects. Of course it's fun to see how it went right away, but I also thinks it's satisfying to kind of follow along. And it's always fun when a video pops up in the sub box and my reaction is something along the line of, "oh yeah I remember that. Awesome. I wonder how "project" goes."
Preparation for Martian transforming I see. I like it.
When we do prop cuttings of hemp at the greenhouse we use plenty of airflow for the plant as a whole. Warm soil is also important recommend at least 65 degrees for the roots to develop well. A mister is on a timer to moisten the leaves as they take up the function of the roots while the plant forms a callus. Once the plant forms a callus and subsequent roots then you can begin watering as a normal plant ( through the soil). This is the method we use from hemp though. I would suspect at the very least you should have warm soil and air flow for the leaves or I fear you might develop a rot
I mean I have no idea about this kind of stuff, but couldn't you put springtails/isopods in there for some of the mold?
Great project! I really appreciate how you operate around the ranch. Cant wait to see how this turns out!
As already said below, yeah you should favor a 18-6 lighting schedule...generally what I do when cloning (rooting cuttings). I have had some issues with mold and mildew though...for that opting for a little copper sulfate (bouillie bordelaise or bordeaux mixture) in the spray bottle once a month does the trick. They are young, small and fragile, I prefer to be preventive rather than struggle in fighting a loosing battle.
Also, as said as well, with such a setup you should see some nice roots within 2-3 weeks.
Just one question, with all of the problems that you've had with fires around your ranch, wouldn't it be wiser to plant some less resinous trees?
I don't really know what type of vegetation is indigenous to your area but why not oaks and/or maples as well?
I am aware that they may not be suited to the local climate which looks to be quite cold.
Otherwise, cheers! great venture to plant some native trees.
Super interesting. Never tried cloning anything like this. Pinyon and Juniper lands are super interesting though and they provide a great wind break. Some of my favorite back country camps are in this type of area. Also bonus with Pinyon, trim up the low lying or dead branches to help them in future fires and the firewood you gain from them has an amazing smell. If you have never tried pinyon roasted stuff its amazing. It has a chocolate/caramel quality that reminds you of New Mexico.
I'm not sure but I'm assuming they have one needle because having a lower leaf surface area decreases the rate of evapotranspiration thus conserving water
BUt it also reduces photosynthesis. Maybe it leads to a better cost-benefit ratio when low on water?
Where Cody is in America trees don't need to worry about not getting much light (imagine clear skies 90% of the time) but there isn't a lot of water so yeah the benefit of conserving water should definitely outweigh photosynthesising less.
Also plants don't need a lot of leaves to stay alive. I took a cutting from a berry in a bouquet (don't know what kind) and forgot to water for like a week. Now it only has most of one leaf photosynthesising (down from 8-10) and is starting to grow new leaves too.
@@danielf.7151 given how densely packed those needles tend to be, there's only so much needle surface area a tree will utilize to get light. Most of the needles below the outer layer already loose efficiency, but still give off the same amount of water the outer needles do. So more water loss for less light. Perhaps during winter months when there's less light they may have more needles to make up for the loss of light, but I wouldn't know that.
Hey Cody I think this project is great. I don’t know to much about trees but just to help your out come and get the most you should plant seeds now in doors to give them time over the winter to sprout
Would adding co2 instead of air be helpful?
Air has enough co2 for the trees. Plants die if their roots do not have enough oxygen, happens around volcanic areas like yellowstone.
If his system is a closed loop, then yes, and this is what I thought earlier, but I assume it's not a closed loop. Additional CO2 would be helpful, as carbon-based life forms we need to get our carbon from somewhere; for us it's food, for plants it's the air... an enriched CO2 level might provide extra carbon for fibrous root growth. In a closed system with the plants intaking CO2 constantly eventually they would deplete it, then you have two compounding problems; the roots stop growing and if there's mold on the plant it has ideal conditions on a plant that can't grow or repair itself... I wonder who the winner in this closed system would be!
I really like your plant videos alot. keep it up cody and good to see the winter doesn't stop these klnd of videos. Althoigh my garden is now pretty much full of brown mush.
10:55 looks far too wet. will most definitely mold with that amount of water
high risk indeed
I did a bunch of pine tree cloning back in the 90's, the thing we found worked best was actually to scarify the tree bases or roots (we started by whacking them with axes) of selected mature trees in order to develop suckers. The mature trees had very small quantities of meristematic tissue in the tips of the branches (very high apical dominance on the straight mature trees we were targeting). In creating the root suckers we were creating large quantities of undifferentiated meristematic tissue (immature softwood basically) which had a far higher success rate with rooting/cloning. (we were targeting mature trees with proven growth patterns and disease resistance).
I'm moderately certain that these trees will grow by root division in situ (It makes sense to me in the context of clumpy evergreen trees in a place prone to wild fires that they would regrow from roots left after a fire if the top soil is deep enough). If you can find strong lateral roots from mature trees then chucking a rock or even a drilled pvc pipe under a horizontal root (aiming for a root clump at each site), then scarifying and exposing sections so that they grow suckers and roots would potentially allow you to do root division once they have sprouted and rooted.
That cloning from suckers is pretty much how it's done in New Zealand. They grow Sucker tissue on agar wafers in the lab to clone plants.
Cody, those polycarbonate trays are awesome. What was your source?
Looks like standard commercial sizing. You can get those size trays in a variety of materials from restaurant supply stores.
When it rains or snows the water will collect on this road. Make it at least 12 ft wide. Plant trees on the outside edge of the road. Use tree branches as full on the downhill side. Bury them. As they decay, the new roots will follow them. Lay out a pattern of interlocking triangles for the new roots to follow. In this way you will create a strong structure to hold your road and contour canals in place. If you do not have tree branches now, then you will get them latter as your forests grow.
hey, my father once told me that you are not supposed to cut em with scissors, but with a very sharp knive. otherwise the little vaines and stuff get damaged by the pressure of the scissors blades from both sides
I think that's only for soft stemmed plants. Evergreens are usually very stiff yet flexible and are adapted to take a beating. The cuttings would be fine. The only thing Cody has to worry about is the production of resin at the area of the cut, because it can negate all use of propagating the cutting.
Probably not a big deal anyway, since scar tissue in conjunction with lack of light seems to form roots for most plants from my experience... and we're talking about pine trees, too, which I can see videos of root pruning on the topic of... they get mechanised spades on tractors and plow straight through all of that filthy soil, gouging it into the root systems... sacrilege, huh? But the roots form such healthy balls without rot or disease! Hmmmmm... The issue would surely be where to take the cut, then... before or after the node? Do you need a non-terminating tip, or is it like spinach, where it seems you can grow an entire plant from 1 square cm of leaf?
Technically I'm a state certified florist (from my high school floral design class lmao), I always just cut em with scissors and they seem to have the expected lifespans. Might not really matter.
@CodysLab
I grow cannabis. For my crops, I use 14-18 hours of "daylight" during the vegetative cycle (growth), and 12 hours for the bloom/flowering cycle. When I cut clones to root like you did, temperature and humidity are the most important factors, so no matter the light schedule, try to keep the temperatures on target. I'm excited to see your results to duplicate them on my own semi-arid property in southern Oregon.
don't forget to plant Yucca's and Cacti like Opuntia!
Believe it is too cold for the Opuntia, but Yucca Filamentosa will be happy up there.
@@leifvejby8023 no there are some Opuntia species living in the Rocky Mountains, the Great Plains and even deep into the Yukon in Canada I believe.
Thanks, maybe they can survive here too, if they can tolerate the damp.
There are opuntias that are freeze tolerant. W3 have them in Ohio.
@@JenkemDungeon Opuntias in Ohio? Didn't realize they were anywhere close to Ohio. That's interesting
This is by far the best project you've embarked upon!
You should not dunk the cuttings into the rooting compound container. It will contaminate it. You should pour some into a shot glass to dunk you cutting in.
Contaminate it with what? I've always seen it done this same way.
@@CanadianArchaeologist Stuff growing in the tree. It could have a sickness that has not shown itself yet. Thus you would contaminate every cutting you from that one on.
Much better. That way he can drink the rooting powder afterward. :D
Okay, you're right, but only because I think you don't even need the rooting compound to begin with... I think if he took clones using a layering method, he might get some massive clones with near 100% success rate in a months time, and without a rooting compound.
With the exception of the Arborvitae those are some hard trees to propagate from cuttings.
My parents had a greenhouse operation, and i swear my dad could get a pressure treated 2x4 to root... but in my own experience, some of the evergreens are really hard. I was trying for about 5 years straight to get American Holly propagated, and out of several hundred cuttings per year, I had only about 1% success rate, and even they failed to thrive by a year or two later.
I like what your doing, and feel success will pivot on something very minor. Personally, I prefer to mist on a schedule and let the roots drain well and potentially add a little heat. I also prefer to use separate plug trays so I don't disturb roots and I feel it helps stop mold to a degree.
If you have trouble, another propagation technique I'd try is try rooting on the live tree. You prep the stem and make a ball of soil-less mix that you wrap around the cutting with a mesh. Once it generates roots, you can cut it off the tree and replant it. Obviously, this can be a logistical problem on someone else's tree, especially trying to keep the soil balls moist.
Good luck.
Hey man , nice to watch reforestation
One tip that maybe helpful: When making the "root" area of the cuttings.. (granted i have no experience with hard tissue cuttings) I might suggest using an scalpel, or similar knife. Instead of just pulling/ knocking the leafs off. From my experience with other types of cuttings... minimizing the amount of torn tissue/ frills is best in avoiding rot to the rooting zone of the cutting. Im about 99% sure you may have thought of this.. I skimmed through some comments (not all) and didnt see this.. also to the light cycle conversation.. really anything from 12-24 will suffice from what I have come to understand.. Anyway hope this helped, if it was needed.. Also jealous, I cant find that rooting hormone around here anymore.. Which sucks.. I have always had good success rates using it.. Even way back in high-school in the greenhouse. Cheers