exhaust flow needs anti reversion after the collectors.. putting in a 14 to 18" long tuning tube at the collectors speeds up the exhaust flow thru the reduced diameter.. gives it inertia to prevent shockwaves from reflecting back up from the mufflers and slamming into the next pulse of exhaust gas coming out. the reduced diameter also creates a scavenge effect lowering the pressure in the collector and the primary tubes so when the exhaust port opens significant more power.. it also changes the sound.. eliminating the reversion and slapping noise from the headers.. so if you have a 3" collector.. use a 3" to 2 1/2" tapered collector adapter flipped backwards and 12" of 2 1/2 slipped on the adapter.. if you don't like it you can remove it in 10 minutes. do watch your air fuel ratio when you first install it.. it will lean out your carb.. as the exhaust is scavenging with much more force.. so you will need to increase the idle feed restrictions.. looking at air fuel ratio at 1700 or 1800 before the primary boosters start flowing... look at the air fuel ratio again at 2900 when you are running only on the primary jets.. you will have to after getting idle feed restrictions and primary jetting done to bring the air fuel ratio back within power range.. then look at the secondary main jetting close to wide open throttle at 3800 to 4500 RPMs .. this takes a long uphill on ramp or a steep grade to get the engine to this and still making horsepower.. there are headers out there that have Step down primary tubes... so the exhaust has room to come out of the cylinder... then the smaller diameter speeds it up creating better scavenging at higher rpms.. where your cage comes out of the back of the cab. you might want to look at VW Swing axle inner boots.. this allows you to create some split angle flanges to bolt to the cab.. the rubber swing axle boot clamps around that.. and then bolts together over the roll cage tube.. allowing your cab and cage to flex just slightly without tearing the sheet metal around the tube penetration.. VW swing axle boots are split and bolt together.
@@Thecraig909 copy and email it to your self to go over carefully i covered several different subjects.. Idle feed restriction tuning is the difference between a bog off idle.. and ripping the treads off the tires pulling away from every stop sign..
That's awesome. Hope to see more on this build. I'm in the middle of getting a 1960 f250 4x4 on 36's back on the road. Been setting for 20 years but with a little work fired right up and I'm "driving" it. Now the whole stopping part, thats a different sorry but who needs that. Lol
My dad has a 1968 f100 that he used as a tow rig for the past 20ish years. My personal project is a 1974 vw Baja bug and I’m in the same boat, saving up money to build a roll cage and put some proper suspension under the thing. I’ve had the car since I was 15 and she’s my daily, I’m 18 now and it’s definitely a struggle.
That's cool, I'm building my 69 f100 with the 1 inch f350 beams with f250 hubs (they interchange) and John at autofab is bending them for me. I'm keeping my built 390 with a built c6 and running a trailing arm 3 link setup. I'll have to cut the cab mounts to run 37 inch tires (don't believe in spacers) but I might just do 35 inch to get more travel. Im doing single swinger (swingset) steering as well that I'm fabricating. Good to see the f100 is still loved and cool to see someone else who knows how the f100 dominated nora back in the day! Good luck fellas
The guys from roadkill and masterengines did an experiment. The more open the exhaust, the more horsepower. More back pressure from smaller exhaust killed power.
Smfh if I hear one more person talk about needing back pressure to make power... Go watch engine masters when they compare different exhaust on the dyno
Engine masters made HP and TQ with 3" over 2.5", completely de bunking the back pressure myth!! And the roadkill muscle truck is 3" to 4" shorty glasspacks, back to 3" and it makes great power.
at a higher rpm i dont doubt. at lower rpm the smaller exhaust diameter will help pull exhaust gasses due to a higher velocity gas flow, but will get choked out at higher rpm. 2 strokes on the other hand work well with back pressure or there would be no need for an expansion chamber.
they proved you dont need backpressure but they also proved that a small block 350/351/302 will not make neough exhaust fumes to benefit from a 3". also the longer the exhaust the more work on the system and less power. miniscule, but its a fact.
i have engine stands for a 67to72 ford 3/4 ton 4x4 so u can put a 429 or 460 in one i'm not going to use them . i put the 390 in it back to the fe block
Finish your truck and then buy another bump or dent and make it into a prerunner cause the galaxie will take a while and just make the “prerunner” super cheap so you can build the galaxie first
Slow the heck down with the panning or its gone for good. Weird's ya out ok. I like that truck. Done right will get some attention for sure. Although not popular now, give it a final look on the outside of a step side with the bed sides incorporated into rigidity, some roll fenders on the back, keep the wheel spacers, those are the big buck wheel centering kind right. A cab step off the bed in the sides to kinda give it like it was made for it. Nothing tied to cab just bed thing. Really make it stout for the link suspension. Should be doable. Just look at it as the guy glancing knows something is different then looks and goes killer. If you can make the sides of the fake bed side look like a real bed and tie it to the metal frame work going in then real cool
Ford engine color paint.. your choices are.1. 80's/5.0 Ford Gray 2. Regular Corporate Ford Blue 3. Midnight/Dark Ford Blue 4. 1964-65 289/V8 /Gloss Black engine with painted Gold valve covers. 5. 55-57 Thunderbird Red Eng Paint w Alum covers. What is your choice?
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
exhaust flow needs anti reversion after the collectors.. putting in a 14 to 18" long tuning tube at the collectors speeds up the exhaust flow thru the reduced diameter.. gives it inertia to prevent shockwaves from reflecting back up from the mufflers and slamming into the next pulse of exhaust gas coming out. the reduced diameter also creates a scavenge effect lowering the pressure in the collector and the primary tubes so when the exhaust port opens significant more power.. it also changes the sound.. eliminating the reversion and slapping noise from the headers.. so if you have a 3" collector.. use a 3" to 2 1/2" tapered collector adapter flipped backwards and 12" of 2 1/2 slipped on the adapter.. if you don't like it you can remove it in 10 minutes. do watch your air fuel ratio when you first install it.. it will lean out your carb.. as the exhaust is scavenging with much more force.. so you will need to increase the idle feed restrictions.. looking at air fuel ratio at 1700 or 1800 before the primary boosters start flowing... look at the air fuel ratio again at 2900 when you are running only on the primary jets..
you will have to after getting idle feed restrictions and primary jetting done to bring the air fuel ratio back within power range.. then look at the secondary main jetting close to wide open throttle at 3800 to 4500 RPMs .. this takes a long uphill on ramp or a steep grade to get the engine to this and still making horsepower..
there are headers out there that have Step down primary tubes... so the exhaust has room to come out of the cylinder... then the smaller diameter speeds it up creating better scavenging at higher rpms..
where your cage comes out of the back of the cab. you might want to look at VW Swing axle inner boots.. this allows you to create some split angle flanges to bolt to the cab.. the rubber swing axle boot clamps around that.. and then bolts together over the roll cage tube.. allowing your cab and cage to flex just slightly without tearing the sheet metal around the tube penetration.. VW swing axle boots are split and bolt together.
Wow that’s about the longest comment I’ve gotten. Thank you for the info!
@@Thecraig909 copy and email it to your self to go over carefully i covered several different subjects.. Idle feed restriction tuning is the difference between a bog off idle.. and ripping the treads off the tires pulling away from every stop sign..
That's awesome. Hope to see more on this build. I'm in the middle of getting a 1960 f250 4x4 on 36's back on the road. Been setting for 20 years but with a little work fired right up and I'm "driving" it. Now the whole stopping part, thats a different sorry but who needs that. Lol
So Cal is all about the off road scene. Looking good keep it up
Great job Franklin on building that at such a young age!
Same as me when I was a young fella enjoy the ride what your doing is building your character 😊
My dad has a 1968 f100 that he used as a tow rig for the past 20ish years. My personal project is a 1974 vw Baja bug and I’m in the same boat, saving up money to build a roll cage and put some proper suspension under the thing. I’ve had the car since I was 15 and she’s my daily, I’m 18 now and it’s definitely a struggle.
I remember the c10, i also remember your green F250 when you got that
Love the (painted) front ends of the 67's...
That's cool, I'm building my 69 f100 with the 1 inch f350 beams with f250 hubs (they interchange) and John at autofab is bending them for me. I'm keeping my built 390 with a built c6 and running a trailing arm 3 link setup. I'll have to cut the cab mounts to run 37 inch tires (don't believe in spacers) but I might just do 35 inch to get more travel. Im doing single swinger (swingset) steering as well that I'm fabricating.
Good to see the f100 is still loved and cool to see someone else who knows how the f100 dominated nora back in the day!
Good luck fellas
Dam did a good job for bulid that a 16
More pride like that to build your own truck not daddy’s money buying stupid super cars
Hope everything comes alright
Dude the c10 was sick!🤘🏻
67 My favorite year. Love the colors too.
Yessss I'm literally looking into making a triangulated 4 link for my 1983 4 door c30. This is great content .. for me lol
I just started watching the channel and i wanted to see more if this truck! So rad timing!!!
The guys from roadkill and masterengines did an experiment. The more open the exhaust, the more horsepower. More back pressure from smaller exhaust killed power.
Awesome truck!
This is going to be awesome
Heck yea!
I would like to see you guys fabricate a lot of parts like plates and things like body panels, mostly body panels because I live in the east coast
Smfh if I hear one more person talk about needing back pressure to make power... Go watch engine masters when they compare different exhaust on the dyno
hp yes
Engine masters made HP and TQ with 3" over 2.5", completely de bunking the back pressure myth!! And the roadkill muscle truck is 3" to 4" shorty glasspacks, back to 3" and it makes great power.
at a higher rpm i dont doubt. at lower rpm the smaller exhaust diameter will help pull exhaust gasses due to a higher velocity gas flow, but will get choked out at higher rpm. 2 strokes on the other hand work well with back pressure or there would be no need for an expansion chamber.
were on the same page 👍
they proved you dont need backpressure but they also proved that a small block 350/351/302 will not make neough exhaust fumes to benefit from a 3". also the longer the exhaust the more work on the system and less power. miniscule, but its a fact.
I remember when Franklin built that truck at Grossmont auto
Let me get those beams!!!
love it more of this one
Waiting for Craig to learn how to downshift
Nice vid man!
Hi Iam building my own long suspension for my 1976 f250 dully welding truck . Is there any thing I should know before I start building the 4 link.
C10 was nice
i have engine stands for a 67to72 ford 3/4 ton 4x4 so u can put a 429 or 460 in one i'm not going to use them . i put the 390 in it back to the fe block
Finish your truck and then buy another bump or dent and make it into a prerunner cause the galaxie will take a while and just make the “prerunner” super cheap so you can build the galaxie first
Slow the heck down with the panning or its gone for good. Weird's ya out ok. I like that truck. Done right will get some attention for sure. Although not popular now, give it a final look on the outside of a step side with the bed sides incorporated into rigidity, some roll fenders on the back, keep the wheel spacers, those are the big buck wheel centering kind right. A cab step off the bed in the sides to kinda give it like it was made for it. Nothing tied to cab just bed thing. Really make it stout for the link suspension. Should be doable. Just look at it as the guy glancing knows something is different then looks and goes killer. If you can make the sides of the fake bed side look like a real bed and tie it to the metal frame work going in then real cool
C10 gang
I just creep on this channel by sheer accident and I fucking knew I see that truck at in n out all the time with my fat ass
That think looks sweet tho
Danger
Yall boys would crap if you see some of the stuff me an my friends built back when I was your age
Hell yeah I fallow your buddy on Instagram
C10 days aye I have a dentside 😁
🤩
What were those bucket seat out of.
Yeeeeeee hahhhhh
What kind of wheels dose he have on his truck
I was around
Is that truck 2wd?
Sounds like an rv haha
Is no one going to say anything bout the muscle top?
Short shocks for a link
Ford engine color paint.. your choices are.1. 80's/5.0 Ford Gray 2. Regular Corporate Ford Blue 3. Midnight/Dark Ford Blue 4. 1964-65 289/V8 /Gloss Black engine with painted Gold valve covers. 5. 55-57 Thunderbird Red Eng Paint w Alum covers. What is your choice?
Those mufflers are so ghetto
6th cool video!
I wish I was in my early 20s again lol I'm 30 but I make over 100k a year so there's that.... I guess that's good
sure you do, and i'm really Bill Gates.
First!!!
Finished projects are overrated.
First
So you’re one of “those” drivers 😒
Firth