Stepper Wiring Woes - How to get your steppers working in a new 3D Printer Build
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Trying to build a new 3D printer and the steppers are chattering? Not working? Stepper vibrates but doesn't move? Can't figure out how to wire them? This video explains why stepper problems aren't your fault and how to get them working in your 3D printer build. Using just a few tools in your shop you can figure out how the stepper coils and the wires are setup so you can get on with building your 3D Printer. Simple solution to a frustrating problem.
Stepper Wire Template used in the video: docs.google.co...
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How have you solved your stepper wiring problems?
Lots of trial and error and firmware changes until it works. Just got done with my first corexy build and it was frustrating to say the least.
I am try to make my own 3d printer bay Following your video thank you so much for great video
I am try to make my own 3d printer bay Following your video thank you so much for great video
I'm not making a 3D printer so I can just identify the polarity of the coils and then change my sketch before making my board. Thank you for the video! I was sure a stepper motor isn't that loud… the polarity was just wrong.
Im just trying to get my new stepper motor to work with my Anycubic Photon.... Still hasn't worked, wont rotate.
Thank you for fixing my issue with my stepper motor wires on my 3d printer project! I was pulling my hair out when all I had to do was switch two pins at one end! Your video gave me the the one bit of knowledge that I didn't know I needed to know!
But when you define 2 wires for coil A, how do you know which one is 1 and which one is 2?
the easiest way to pair the pins of one coil is to short them together when turning the stepper motor, if the pins of one coil are shorted, you will feel resistance to turning the motor
Ok, very useful comment thanks, but My problem is that laser (x)step motor is running 1.5 years manufactury connected, and now from 2 days it rejects to spin counter clockwise, it spins only clockwise direction, and sometimes or very hardly with noise spins other direction, doesh that mean that one of the 2 coils is fucked up ? I mean it got shorted somewhere inside the stepper or the probem is somewhere around the wires, because I track the all cables from stepper to the driver and didn`t see any problem around 4 color wires, also I replace today the step driver with brand new and nothing change about the stepper motor , still getting hard spinning in both directions only one goes smoothly. Please help
You can also tap 2 wires and turn the motor and if it feels loose, its not the right wire. Tap onto the other until there is tension onto the motor. Then put led lights to find the + - part of the wire. 👍👍👍
Any idea why one of my stepper motor sometimes changes direction while pressing the direction button on computer .🤔
My motor worked for a year and then all of the sudden stopped and started vibrating. I then replaced the motor and got a new wire that has the same order of colors and the new motor also doesn't work! what would cause the motor to start doing this? Is it a power supply problem? a motherboard issue? I have an anycubic photon resin printer. Any advice would be most appreciated!!
Could be the stepper driver. Might be worth replacing to rule out.
Is it normal the step motor don't start running when the I set it with high speed? For solve, I set to start with low speed and then increase the speed up to desire high speed.
Too much acceleration can cause a stepper to not move correctly. Hardware does have finite limits to what they can do. That will of course vary due to stepper driver, acceleration, stepper performance, etc.
I watched the video, Very helpful, however, still not working. You did mention asking for help in the discord. Wondering if you could possibly give me some direction. I'm new to this and setting up my first CNC. I was able to upload GRBL and Universal G-code sender. I'm using the Arduino UNO, with the red drivers. 4 axis. The orange light is blinking, the green light is on. I've double checked my motor wiring with an ohms meter. I am running the set up wizzard in the G-code sender program, when I try to move any of my axis motors in the program, I hear a low humming/buzzing noise, but no movement. It's difficult to determine where the noise is from, possibly the transformer/power supply? I doesn't sound like it's the motors. Is it possible that my drivers are burned out? Is it possible to bi-pass the drivers with a jumper just to check the motors? Any suggestions would be very helpful. TIA. Nick
thank so much ! not alot of info in this common problem
if i only need to reverse the motor what i need to do?
No. I am not getting current through the second coil? Is it possible to burn out a brand new stepper?
It could, I dont know what you hooked it up to. Do you have another stepper with the same issue? If you pushed too much current it could have caused the winding to overheat or arc. No idea honestly but your stepper wires should pair and have low resistance through them. Try checking it with a meter. If you've having more trouble check out the discord, Im sure myself or others can assist you.
Very useful Video thanks, but My problem is that laser (x)step motor is running smoothly for 1.5 years manufactury connected, and now from 2 days it rejects to spin counter clockwise, it spins only clockwise direction, and sometimes or very hardly with noise spins other direction, doesh that mean that one of the 2 coils is fucked up ? I mean it got shorted somewhere inside the stepper or the probem is somewhere around the wires, because I track the all cables from stepper to the driver and didn`t see any problem around 4 color wires, also I replace today the step driver with brand new and nothing changed about the stepper motor , still getting hard spinning in both directions only one goes smoothly. Please help
Do I have to buy new one and replace ?
subbed :) good video
Thanks old man
No problem presumably younger person. Always remember that youth and ambition is no match for age and tretchery.
B coil stays grounded and will not turn even when wires are not connected?
Sounds like a bad stepper
Can a stepper motor be repaired ?@@MakersMashup
@@MrDondoerner I doubt it but I suppose it might be possible. It's a motor on the inside with windings, I'd think that you couldn't fix but should a bad solder point inside be the cause it might be fixable. Outside my wheelhouse for sure.
Awesome.
Thank you thank you thank you
I took your advice and it worked I'm excited thanks
You're quite welcome.
I guess I'm old... every other printer geek's channel has sucky music.
You're welcome here anytime.
@@MakersMashup video helped a lot by the way. I've got rattling in one of my steppers (Voron 2.4) from bad crimping. I hate MicroFit...
Excelent video tip, Rob, thanks for sharing! I faced similar issue when I was assembling the X301 and I used the LED suggestion and even I have multimeter, the LED tip is super easy and it was very quick for me to reorder the wire colors and solve the problem. Greetings!!
I would like to start by giving this man a gold medal.
Would be more useful if you also showed how these wires connect to main board because yet again, not all boards are same. Some have A1,B1,A2,B2 while others have A1,A2,B1,B2 etc.
i recently had different problem
1$ steppers from local ebay with no documentation are fun things to have. they are cheap, and often good quality used motors from old dot matrix printers like oki, seiko or panasonic
ok then but i just had that one random motor and had to put it into ender 3 extruder as a emergency replacement
first of all it had different dc resistance, much lower so it would not really likelow currents oryginal stepper worked at
secund it was as you showed on video random pinout, and quite different than creality motors (2 middle pins were swaped around)
So after rewiring and swaping the motor replacement extruder kind of worked but had no power, thankfully the motor had 4 coils inside, 2 sets of 2 coils in paralall so i rewired it internally to hace only 2 coils, or more precisely wired both pairs in series and 1 ohm changed to 4. magic
then i still had to adjust current on the controller, but the main thing is it works better than not having an extruder and driver doesn't get hot either because required current over 4 ohm coil is much smaller than the one required to generate the same power from just 1 ohm coil
so the problem was the motor itself wasn't suited to be use with stepper drivers used in the printer and had to be modyfied
but after taking off the back you can clearly see whitch pins coresponds to which coil and you can change them around if you really want to match plug standard of a specyfic device
it would be much harder if you for instance got a 5 wire motor and want to fit it to 4 wire controller
Love the trip of using one motor to determine the direction of another motor. Great idea!
I was frustrated with this problem , huge thanks for your guide man.
I know this was 3 years ago but this was supremely helpful thank you mate.
Thank you so much! I lengthened the wires on my ender to extend outside of it's enclosure, and ended up having an issue with only my y axis stuttering and refusing to advance.. you reminded me that continuity testers were a thing lol.. liked and subbed
How about stepper not responding to m18 m84? Stepper locked and doesnt turn with commands either?? 😢
my stepper vibrates a lot, i dont know why
I have a unipolar motor with 6 wires, how do I connect this to my A4988 driver on 3D printer.
The motor I bought is
A A+ B B+
Creality style stepper is.
A B A+ B+
That is where the twist is.
Cool! Now do one on why people are too lazy to look for information like this before they ask for someone to help them in a chat...
That was the inspiration and how this video got made. :)
how to know which is + and- or a+a- b+b-
Very helpful, indeed. I will sincerely hope I can do this.
You got this!
THANK YOUUU
Can I send you 2 motors that are from an industrial embroidery machine that are supposedly bad? I don't think they are. I think the problem lies in circuit board within the motor that supplies the power to those motors.
Just put a meter on the motor connectors and test for conductivity. You should find paired coils. If it comes up with all the coils working the only other issue could be a seized bearing. So I'd just pop the connector and start testing. If you don't have a multimeter it's about $20 far less than shipping them to me. 😉
Really appreciate your videos
Never had a problem with different stepper motors on 3d printers that I have. However, I just made a roller assembly for my Longer Ray 5 laser and when I plugged the stepper into the Y axis cable it just vibrated. I tried that same stepper on my Black Widow and one of my Enders and the motor worked perfect. I concluded that the motors on the Longer Ray5 are wired differently than my 3d printers, (the steppers themselves). I also put a different stepper cable that I had as a spare and connected it to the connection on the Longer Y axis and low and behold the roller stepper worked. In conclusion Longer IS using different steppers than used on most 3d printers. At least that is my conclusion.
Hi! I'm going to change my noname steppers (bought the 2nd 3d printer - used one, the DIY kit, last owner was really saving his money :)) ) to Hanpose. I'm hoping to remove that vertical artifacts (we call it "the motor ripple) which corresponds to motor's steps.
Is it true that if I connect two motors (old and new) together like you've show here and the "slave" motor spins in the same direction as the "master" (when I rotate it) that the pinout is right?
I've got 3 nema 17 stepper motors (X, Y, Z axis) hooked up to an Arduino Uno board with a CNC shield & 8825 drivers. The motors just hum & won't turn so can somebody please help me figure out what's going on so they will work as I've checked the wiring & think it's possible my settings are off in the program?
Thank you so much! Have been looking for a solution for this weird behaviour of my stepper. Turned out the wires were wrongly connected. I thought the wires are already in the right order but they were not! The tip with the continuity was the key...thanks!
I found the two coils on each motor. When I connect the first stepper to the second stepper it does not rotate. It jumps around on the table? Both steppers are a 57 HS112 red + and Green - second coil is yellow + and Blue -. When I hook red to red and green to green etc. I get nothing?
What is wrong?
Thank you for the tip. Installing a bond tech lgx, and I had a bad case of the stutters. Swapping two leads took care of it. Back to (re-)tuning!
The upgrade was due to the knock of BMG that came with my two trees sapphire pro...the idler kept falling out.
Twisted signal cable eg CAT5 any interference is cancelled out by the twisting. Stepper motor drivers generate interference via the frequency.
Well I changed a motor nema 17 for a pancake Nema 17 and if It was working fine at thé beginning now I have the extruder out if working at all. I do not know where It is the issue
Check your stepper current . The stepper may also have insufficient torque. All depends on what you bought.
@@MakersMashup Hi, thanks for your answer. I bought a stepperonline nema motor 17 pancake, It is 16 NCM Torque and 3.5 ohms resistance. I do not know if It is enough. Originally, it was a nema motor from the Rostock Max Delta V2 extruder, I change It for design a direct extruder and put a pancake nema motor 17. I do not know if I did well, maybe It is a motherboad problem because I had the problem with the old nema motor.
Depends on what you mean by "twisted". If the cables are twisted their entire length, then that increase resistance to elecro magnetic interference (emi) woth constant current devices. At the power levels uses by steppers, it might not affect the motors performance, but the other end might be susceptible to damage from EMI or have other issues. However, I'm skeptical this is why, as you see this in data transfer standards such as ethernet standards or USB standards (both of which are constant current voltage based messaging protocols).
Otherwise, not sure what you might be describing by saying "twisted wires".
Edit: On second thought, I've seen techs do this strictly to clean up the harness or tidy up a tight spot.
I'm convinced the twisted wire sets are a result of the board engineer not communicating properly to the buyer in charge of ordering the stepper motors and them "fixing" it.
Wait.... use one stepper to test \ figure out the wiring on another stepper..... you seemed to skim right over that magic there good sir !
You are a real life saver sir, the wires are correct still i get noise when connected to arduino
Great work man! Thanks for this detailed video. Perfect :)
the twist are for EMI mitigation , But shielded wiring is better
❤ “It’s not your fault”
Needed to hear that
Awesome idea on connecting the two steppers!
The board says 2b 2a 1b 1a on the pins. How do I figure out which is which on the motor?
The pairs 1 and 2 go with two wire in the steppers.
As a junior Electrical Engineer who works with magnetics and PSUs. I think I can answer your question. The twisting is for reducing cross talking on the wires from the board its good practice. This is probably overkill for a 3d printer but the best solution is twisting, ferrite beads, and shielding the cables. This technique is used on PSUs "power supplies" to reduce the noise and EMI. I recently purchased steppers and the seller sent me ferrite beaded wires which was a nice surprise to me.
I've fixed my Tevo Flash's "madness" only by shielding the ribbon cables. They run between the mb and the screen (with SD card). Y-motor is near these cables. So I guess it generates enough of EM power to influence the signals in ribbons. It was almost OK for some time but when I've re-assembled the printer on the 2nd time the things gone really mad. Then I was told that "this is because of ribbon cables. they're bad and etc. also they're not shielded". I've made the cables by myself (thankful that we have a good local cable supplier, it did took me just few days to do) and wrapped them in a foil which did maded grounded to the mainboard (to a free socket).
Before re-assemblying the 3d printer I've noticed that the original cables were formed in small spirals (like seashells). Maybe this made them more stable against EMI... But this technical decision was really bad from Tevo.
there is no over kill for 3d printing