I've got Michelin cross climate tyres because I live at the top of a long sometimes steep hill just drove up it on 3" snow no problem they are very dependable 👍
I have been using winter tyres for the last 25 years.Never had any problems even in 12 inches of drifting snow. Using summer tyres in snow and ice is just hopeless,and potentially dangerous.
I rub some Vaseline around my door and hatch seals and use penetrating lube on the latch mechanisms and light lithium grease as well. It's 12° here in Michigan right now and I'm hooking up the pan heater atm lol
WD -40 SILICONE, not the regular wd-40, spray on rubber trim and wipe off, ALSO spray under the hood rubber trim, in case you need to jump start your car, hood won't freeze on frame... ✌️
Love your channel man😊 Torque Cars is an absolute "must watch" for any vw noob! I live in mid-Michigan, and lemme tell ya, 19° outside right now, 5pm and it's almost dark, little over a foot of snow on the ground. My poor old 2002 black B5.5 wagon, which is actually in great condition, is covered in ice and salt residue at the moment 😔. So, usually around December 1st, I'll do an oil change and switch from 5w30 liqua moly, to 0w40 for winter. Before the winter oil change, I always run a goodly amount of seafoam thru the oil and gas tank to kinda get it cleaned a bit. I have a katz oil pan heater and a timer switch i get around n ready to hook up before nightfall, as it really helps with the 7° mornins. Winter tires until march/April are an absolute MUST! When a blizzard hits, it gets very dicey driving around here. De-icer washer fluid, good to -40°, we also can't use heavy gear oil here as 2nd gear becomes unobtainium lol. We also have 93 octane fuel in Michigan, which the old 1.8t absolutely loves 😁 202,936 miles and ol Greta (my passat wagon) is still running great! My other daily is a 98 toyota 4runner with 290k+, and it runs almost like new. Preventative maintenance and diligent care keep automobiles going to their maximum potential, at least if they're designed well from the git 🙂
If you have a shed/garage a winter specific tyres with inexpensive alloys/steel wheels that you can remove when not needed is the best you can do to your vehicle Better tractions and don’t have to worry about corrosion on your beautiful diamond cut alloys when driving through winter
The UK driver stubbornly keeps buying summer tyres over and over again while there's really good all season tyres out there which work better 90% of the time in the UK due to the wet roads and relatively cold weather.
I was gifted a pair of winter tires for the 2012 to 2013 winter season, here in Pennsylvania, USA. That convinced me (finally) of their substantial superiority to "all-season" radials for driving in snow. Not only is the tread pattern different, but the rubber compound is designed to remain more pliable than their all-season radial alternatives at lower temps . In addition, front-wheel drive vehicles have permitted me to get by with a pair of snow tires on the drive/steer tires, while keeping radials on the free-wheeling rear wheels.
One thing I would mention is aquaplaning. Lots of cars these days have very wide tyres - and if you are doing 70+ mph in the rain, especially where there is poor drainage on the road, the car is more likely to aquaplane. So if its raining heavily - drive slower.
That is a big risk, when I switched to rain spec tyres I haven't noticed aquaplaning and I'm able to drive much faster than before and more safely so it is worth the investment. th-cam.com/video/1dFLCzzyffU/w-d-xo.html
The other morning it was a white frost around minus 2C. so as I had breakfast I phoned the car , turned on the heating and the charger. When I got into the car the windows were defrosted, no scraping, and the car was warm inside ready to go. Just one advantage of going EV.
In terms of rusting, any moisture is technically bad. That said, prior to annual corrosion preventation treatments, used to wash the underbody religiously. The idea was aimed more at getting out/replacing salty slush with fresh water. It is still bad, but not quite as bad. The moment you leave the washing station it'll get caked in a layer of salty water anyways. In my case, the station is around a mile from my place. Once parked, usually remove most of the slush from around the seams and rocker panels as best as possible. The cost of cleaning is pretty significant throughout the winter and is better spent on some preventative rustproofing solutions instead. Ultimately, regular washing may help slightly, but for as long as there is exposed metal and moisture, it will rot. The best bet is to cake the underside in some oil based treatments at a reputable shop. Remember, rustproofing treatments are only as effective as their application. Rubberized coatings need more attention than oil based ones because they're very effective at preventing moisture from getting in, but if they crack due to some rock hitting the bottom, scraping or whatever, moisture will get in and won't get out, thus "potentially" accelerating rusting. It needs to be maintained and checked often and recoated where necessary. It is a bit of a hassle. Also, keep in mind and fix perforated spots, as they will continue rusting. Protected from the underside, but the moisture gets in from the top and it is a moot point. Know how rusting takes place, do some research on available options at your area and go for it. Washing helps, but it is far from ideal.
@@user-jq2mx5kh7l Hi. Thanks for taking the time to give a detailed reply, appreciated. Currently own Octavia Scout which has some plastic underbody protection trays fitted. I don't use an automatic public car wash but clean car at home with Karcher, then hand wash. The underside is cleaned with a rolling spray bar attached to my Karcher. Main reason I clean the underside / wheel arches is to get rid of the sticky / clumpy mud picked up from travelling through quarries and narrow country back lanes.
Very good advice! 👌🏼 The Focus' battery is original at 9yr old and starting to show signs at start-up (too many short trips aren't helping!) Auto start/stop gave up the ghost ages ago. Oil changes around October too, to allow quicker circulation of the good stuff at start-up. Falken All-Weathers doing the do.
If you live in the snow/ice belt, and have never used those high-end studless tires, you will be shocked at what capabilities they’ll give you. In addition to testing the freezing protection of your coolant, they sell pH test strips. Old coolant becomes acidic and can eat away at gaskets. Worst one is the head gasket. One of those specific gravity testers won’t tell you if the coolant has gone acidic.
i've been wondering about this, now that many of us in america are putting less mileage on our cars and keeping them forever! Plus cars sitting for long periods perhaps need freshest coolant.
@@18_rabbit I do wonder if all these blown head gasket issues, across many specific models/years, don’t have a big root in old acidic coolant. I have a Gen 3 Prius I bought new. The generation has enough blown HGs that Toyota, in 2014, issued a TSB and redesigned the HG. This was also the generation that came out shortly after Toyota introduced their “Super Long Life” coolant. It was during that generation that they completely omitted coolant service from the scheduled maintenance log books they gave purchasers(along with transmission fluid service). The log books go out to 120K miles. No wonder so many of these vehicles run 10+ years with the original coolant. I wish I would have had those test strips when I changed mine out. Just can’t see that stuff not having gone bad with pH.
Used to run studless Nokians and they were a blast overall. On snow it was amazing, but ice with a thin layer of fresh snow and you might as well be on slicks. These days, knowing I often find myself on icy roads, it is studs all the way and chains in the boot when it gets way out of hand. Those studless Nokians were on a FWD car and there simply is not enough control nor feedback to have confidence. It continues to understeer badly while the front end tries to do everything. Studs were marginally better, but still lacked control. More effective in certain situations, but ultimately found that RWD is all around more comfortable to drive despite the fact it basically slides through every single turn. That said, it does so in a controlled manner and studless provide that little bit extra lateral grip where it keeps the car planted. Though, I agree. If you can fork out for some high-end studless tires they can be a blast to drive on, but if one spends half of the winter on salted roads (more or less driving on clear asphalt), they do wear out fast. The compound is generally extremely soft. Everything would be fine if they wouldn't excessively salt the roads, but since they do and once the tread wears to a certain point on the front, it becomes extremely dangerous in a salty slush. Especially on wider tires. I find they simply aren't cost-effective given the typical mixed conditions. Good enough or even great up until half of their lifetime and then it quickly goes downhill from there (except on snow).
I now always put a few drops of methylated spirits along with some screen wash in my screen wash bottle just in case we get a best from the east at some time it stops the bottle freezing solid and also the pipes but maybe not the nozzles until the heat from the engine warms them up unless they are the heated type like on my wife’s 2003 Ford focus all my family and friends have started doing the same thing now I only put it in jurying winter 🥶
TIP for people with NEWer cars. You all have your lights set to AUTO. They DONT turn on in light fog or rain. TURN YOUR FUCKING LIGHTS ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! If its raining - SIDE LIGHTS MINIMUM. IF its misty - headlights with or without front fogs. If its foggy (Cars disappear a short distance ahead) REAR FOGS. DO NOT - use rear fogs in rain. - use rear fogs if you can see cars regular taillights way ahead.
I've driven like that in the past - an old RWD BMW with a limited slip differential, a broken ABS/DSC unit, and 10+ year old hardened winter tires. It was a lot of fun, but you had to be very careful. 😂😂
When it's really cold the battery will just stop altogether. So if you suspect very cold weather and need the car to start in the morning, bring the battery inside (and charge it). Also use engine block heaters, that goes for milder days too!
@@18_rabbitDrawing current from the battery will raise its temperature thanks to its internal resistance, although personally I wouldn't risk using headlights like this.
Yes, ideally you need to measure its internal resistance, although at a push you can use a multimeter with a upper / lower reading feature and crank the car. You don't really want to see a voltage sag below 9.8v.
@loc4725 If it is faat enough to catch it. It may catch 11V lowest, but jb reality the voltage dropped to say 8V for 150ms. That would cause the ECU to reset, but you will think that the battery is fine when it isnt.
You’ve just lost a subscriber for giving uninformed advice re: winter tyres - they are not just for snowy conditions, they are in fact just more effective in low temperatures regardless of any snow or ice.
Ooh Harsh!!! We don't get much snow or ice in this part of the UK. I kind of assumed that the name "winter tyre" led to the assumption they were good in cold winter conditions. The fact that a winter tyre excels in the snow is more of an assumption as they are not called snow tyres (these are typically studded) so I felt it was worth mentioning they were great in the snow. What I specifically said was " in some areas you may want to switch switch to winter tires or you may be forced by legislation to switch to winter tires so you are ready. The winter tires do give a lot more grip in the snow but they tend to wear out more quickly in the summertime". I really don't get why you felt I was saying they were only good in the snow? Bear in mind I am just one guy, don't expect perfection - if I had a department of script writers and editors you are welcome to hold me to a higher standard. I never claim to be a know it all expert or guru, rather just sharing knowledge I've picked up in over 30 years of owning and working on cars.
@ fair enough - apologies for my overreaction. I do think it’s worth adding an emphasis that cold weather tyres are worth considering for those who live in Wales, NI and Northern Britain - whether that’s dedicated winter tyres or else good quality all-seasons. The reason for the outburst: Last week I passed the scene of an accident where an almost-new Mercedes had skidded off a dual carriageway and into a bridge parapet at high speed. We were held by the police while two air ambulances took off en route to hospital and I gather two more people were dead inside the car. Now obviously I can only speculate but as most new cars are supplied with summer tyres and it was near-freezing at the time, I wonder if the outcome could have been different had the car been shod correctly - I do think as someone with influence you should be advising folks to consider the correct tyres for the seasons.
No worries my friend, I totally understand and appreciate the clarification. This is a good idea, I'll do another updated version of one my earlier videos that touches on tyre selection - it is sadly overlooked by most drivers. th-cam.com/video/2Wk8zgJija4/w-d-xo.html I think most people assume ALL SEASON tyres are good in all seasons, but the reality is that they are not totally useless in all seasons.
And always know your tires. Are they hard or soft compound, new or old, worn or not, cold or warm. Wrapped one car around a pole due to rear hydroplaning in a heavy rain. Tight spot, front crabbed the curb and the rest is history. Fortunately the speed was low enough and the car lived to tell its tale, but it was an expensive oversight on my part. Vastly overestimated the state of tires and their overall ability to do their job effectively.
I've got Michelin cross climate tyres because I live at the top of a long sometimes steep hill just drove up it on 3" snow no problem they are very dependable 👍
I’ve got their Defender T+H tires and really like them
@@richardsmith8938 same I got them for similar conditions in Northern Ireland in winter. Worked great so far.
Great tyres.
I have been using winter tyres for the last 25 years.Never had any problems even in 12 inches of drifting snow.
Using summer tyres in snow and ice is just hopeless,and potentially dangerous.
7 inches of snow this week
The rubber door seals also need some maintenance (at least in mainland europe). It avoids that they become icebound.
I rub some Vaseline around my door and hatch seals and use penetrating lube on the latch mechanisms and light lithium grease as well. It's 12° here in Michigan right now and I'm hooking up the pan heater atm lol
Gummipflege (gummy fleeger). Liquid Moly sells it as apparently does some BMW dealers.
WD -40 SILICONE, not the regular wd-40, spray on rubber trim and wipe off, ALSO spray under the hood rubber trim, in case you need to jump start your car, hood won't freeze on frame... ✌️
Love your channel man😊 Torque Cars is an absolute "must watch" for any vw noob! I live in mid-Michigan, and lemme tell ya, 19° outside right now, 5pm and it's almost dark, little over a foot of snow on the ground. My poor old 2002 black B5.5 wagon, which is actually in great condition, is covered in ice and salt residue at the moment 😔. So, usually around December 1st, I'll do an oil change and switch from 5w30 liqua moly, to 0w40 for winter. Before the winter oil change, I always run a goodly amount of seafoam thru the oil and gas tank to kinda get it cleaned a bit. I have a katz oil pan heater and a timer switch i get around n ready to hook up before nightfall, as it really helps with the 7° mornins. Winter tires until march/April are an absolute MUST! When a blizzard hits, it gets very dicey driving around here. De-icer washer fluid, good to -40°, we also can't use heavy gear oil here as 2nd gear becomes unobtainium lol. We also have 93 octane fuel in Michigan, which the old 1.8t absolutely loves 😁 202,936 miles and ol Greta (my passat wagon) is still running great! My other daily is a 98 toyota 4runner with 290k+, and it runs almost like new. Preventative maintenance and diligent care keep automobiles going to their maximum potential, at least if they're designed well from the git 🙂
I’m in Winnipeg at -28 C 🥶 this morning..lol. Definitely a place where you need winter tires and a block heater👌🏼
If you have a shed/garage a winter specific tyres with inexpensive alloys/steel wheels that you can remove when not needed is the best you can do to your vehicle
Better tractions and don’t have to worry about corrosion on your beautiful diamond cut alloys when driving through winter
Or, you could just move BACK to a hot country that doesnt get snow. Say somewhere in the Middle East???
The UK driver stubbornly keeps buying summer tyres over and over again while there's really good all season tyres out there which work better 90% of the time in the UK due to the wet roads and relatively cold weather.
Sadly this is very true. I did do a video hoping to correct this habit when I switched to a "Rain" tyre th-cam.com/video/1dFLCzzyffU/w-d-xo.html
I was gifted a pair of winter tires for the 2012 to 2013 winter season, here in Pennsylvania, USA. That convinced me (finally) of their substantial superiority to "all-season" radials for driving in snow. Not only is the tread pattern different, but the rubber compound is designed to remain more pliable than their all-season radial alternatives at lower temps . In addition, front-wheel drive vehicles have permitted me to get by with a pair of snow tires on the drive/steer tires, while keeping radials on the free-wheeling rear wheels.
Winter ❄️ tires are also made of a softer compound then all-season tires. So they heat up quicker and in lower temperature 🌡 conditions
Great point! I should have included that.
One thing I would mention is aquaplaning. Lots of cars these days have very wide tyres - and if you are doing 70+ mph in the rain, especially where there is poor drainage on the road, the car is more likely to aquaplane. So if its raining heavily - drive slower.
That is a big risk, when I switched to rain spec tyres I haven't noticed aquaplaning and I'm able to drive much faster than before and more safely so it is worth the investment. th-cam.com/video/1dFLCzzyffU/w-d-xo.html
The other morning it was a white frost around minus 2C. so as I had breakfast I phoned the car , turned on the heating and the charger. When I got into the car the windows were defrosted, no scraping, and the car was warm inside ready to go. Just one advantage of going EV.
Thinking of protection rather than preparation, have you considered a video on underside washing with a spray bar etc to wash off salt?
In terms of rusting, any moisture is technically bad. That said, prior to annual corrosion preventation treatments, used to wash the underbody religiously. The idea was aimed more at getting out/replacing salty slush with fresh water. It is still bad, but not quite as bad. The moment you leave the washing station it'll get caked in a layer of salty water anyways. In my case, the station is around a mile from my place. Once parked, usually remove most of the slush from around the seams and rocker panels as best as possible. The cost of cleaning is pretty significant throughout the winter and is better spent on some preventative rustproofing solutions instead. Ultimately, regular washing may help slightly, but for as long as there is exposed metal and moisture, it will rot. The best bet is to cake the underside in some oil based treatments at a reputable shop. Remember, rustproofing treatments are only as effective as their application. Rubberized coatings need more attention than oil based ones because they're very effective at preventing moisture from getting in, but if they crack due to some rock hitting the bottom, scraping or whatever, moisture will get in and won't get out, thus "potentially" accelerating rusting. It needs to be maintained and checked often and recoated where necessary. It is a bit of a hassle. Also, keep in mind and fix perforated spots, as they will continue rusting. Protected from the underside, but the moisture gets in from the top and it is a moot point. Know how rusting takes place, do some research on available options at your area and go for it. Washing helps, but it is far from ideal.
@@user-jq2mx5kh7l Hi. Thanks for taking the time to give a detailed reply, appreciated. Currently own Octavia Scout which has some plastic underbody protection trays fitted. I don't use an automatic public car wash but clean car at home with Karcher, then hand wash. The underside is cleaned with a rolling spray bar attached to my Karcher. Main reason I clean the underside / wheel arches is to get rid of the sticky / clumpy mud picked up from travelling through quarries and narrow country back lanes.
Thank you for your content
Great content !
Very good advice! 👌🏼
The Focus' battery is original at 9yr old and starting to show signs at start-up (too many short trips aren't helping!)
Auto start/stop gave up the ghost ages ago.
Oil changes around October too, to allow quicker circulation of the good stuff at start-up.
Falken All-Weathers doing the do.
If you live in the snow/ice belt, and have never used those high-end studless tires, you will be shocked at what capabilities they’ll give you.
In addition to testing the freezing protection of your coolant, they sell pH test strips. Old coolant becomes acidic and can eat away at gaskets. Worst one is the head gasket. One of those specific gravity testers won’t tell you if the coolant has gone acidic.
i've been wondering about this, now that many of us in america are putting less mileage on our cars and keeping them forever! Plus cars sitting for long periods perhaps need freshest coolant.
@@18_rabbit
I do wonder if all these blown head gasket issues, across many specific models/years, don’t have a big root in old acidic coolant.
I have a Gen 3 Prius I bought new. The generation has enough blown HGs that Toyota, in 2014, issued a TSB and redesigned the HG. This was also the generation that came out shortly after Toyota introduced their “Super Long Life” coolant. It was during that generation that they completely omitted coolant service from the scheduled maintenance log books they gave purchasers(along with transmission fluid service). The log books go out to 120K miles.
No wonder so many of these vehicles run 10+ years with the original coolant. I wish I would have had those test strips when I changed mine out. Just can’t see that stuff not having gone bad with pH.
Used to run studless Nokians and they were a blast overall. On snow it was amazing, but ice with a thin layer of fresh snow and you might as well be on slicks. These days, knowing I often find myself on icy roads, it is studs all the way and chains in the boot when it gets way out of hand. Those studless Nokians were on a FWD car and there simply is not enough control nor feedback to have confidence. It continues to understeer badly while the front end tries to do everything. Studs were marginally better, but still lacked control. More effective in certain situations, but ultimately found that RWD is all around more comfortable to drive despite the fact it basically slides through every single turn. That said, it does so in a controlled manner and studless provide that little bit extra lateral grip where it keeps the car planted.
Though, I agree. If you can fork out for some high-end studless tires they can be a blast to drive on, but if one spends half of the winter on salted roads (more or less driving on clear asphalt), they do wear out fast. The compound is generally extremely soft. Everything would be fine if they wouldn't excessively salt the roads, but since they do and once the tread wears to a certain point on the front, it becomes extremely dangerous in a salty slush. Especially on wider tires. I find they simply aren't cost-effective given the typical mixed conditions. Good enough or even great up until half of their lifetime and then it quickly goes downhill from there (except on snow).
❄️ It's currently -7°C where I'm at in Niagara, Canada 🇨🇦 ❄️ 🌨 ⛄️ ☃️
I now always put a few drops of methylated spirits along with some screen wash in my screen wash bottle just in case we get a best from the east at some time it stops the bottle freezing solid and also the pipes but maybe not the nozzles until the heat from the engine warms them up unless they are the heated type like on my wife’s 2003 Ford focus all my family and friends have started doing the same thing now I only put it in jurying winter 🥶
Methyl spirits are toxic and you will be inhaling them. Don't do it!!!
What things do you check.do to get ready for winter? Have you done these yet or are some still on your todo list?
TIP for people with NEWer cars. You all have your lights set to AUTO. They DONT turn on in light fog or rain. TURN YOUR FUCKING LIGHTS ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
If its raining - SIDE LIGHTS MINIMUM.
IF its misty - headlights with or without front fogs.
If its foggy (Cars disappear a short distance ahead) REAR FOGS.
DO NOT - use rear fogs in rain.
- use rear fogs if you can see cars regular taillights way ahead.
Crossclimate 2s are the best tyres I’ve come across. So much safer than summer tyres
much safer than regular "all-season" as well! MUCH MUCH safer and pretty much just as long-lived
I got semi slicks, rwd and no traction control. Am i doing it right? 😂
I've driven like that in the past - an old RWD BMW with a limited slip differential, a broken ABS/DSC unit, and 10+ year old hardened winter tires. It was a lot of fun, but you had to be very careful. 😂😂
When it's really cold the battery will just stop altogether. So if you suspect very cold weather and need the car to start in the morning, bring the battery inside (and charge it). Also use engine block heaters, that goes for milder days too!
You can just turn the headlights on for 15 minutes. It will heat up the battery enough to raise its capacity, and then you can start the engine.
@@DashCamSerbia ?!
@@18_rabbit What did you not understand?
@@18_rabbitDrawing current from the battery will raise its temperature thanks to its internal resistance, although personally I wouldn't risk using headlights like this.
"hacks" behave.
It’s the modern word for common sense
I put a new battery in, new summer tyres, topped the oils and washer, fluid. I had the brake fluid replaced last year
Voltage will not tell you anything about the battery state (of charge or health).
Yes, ideally you need to measure its internal resistance, although at a push you can use a multimeter with a upper / lower reading feature and crank the car. You don't really want to see a voltage sag below 9.8v.
@loc4725 If it is faat enough to catch it. It may catch 11V lowest, but jb reality the voltage dropped to say 8V for 150ms. That would cause the ECU to reset, but you will think that the battery is fine when it isnt.
You’ve just lost a subscriber for giving uninformed advice re: winter tyres - they are not just for snowy conditions, they are in fact just more effective in low temperatures regardless of any snow or ice.
Ooh Harsh!!! We don't get much snow or ice in this part of the UK. I kind of assumed that the name "winter tyre" led to the assumption they were good in cold winter conditions. The fact that a winter tyre excels in the snow is more of an assumption as they are not called snow tyres (these are typically studded) so I felt it was worth mentioning they were great in the snow.
What I specifically said was " in some areas you may want to switch switch to winter tires or you may be forced by legislation to switch to winter tires so you are ready. The winter tires do give a lot more grip in the snow but they tend to wear out more quickly in the summertime".
I really don't get why you felt I was saying they were only good in the snow?
Bear in mind I am just one guy, don't expect perfection - if I had a department of script writers and editors you are welcome to hold me to a higher standard. I never claim to be a know it all expert or guru, rather just sharing knowledge I've picked up in over 30 years of owning and working on cars.
@ fair enough - apologies for my overreaction. I do think it’s worth adding an emphasis that cold weather tyres are worth considering for those who live in Wales, NI and Northern Britain - whether that’s dedicated winter tyres or else good quality all-seasons.
The reason for the outburst: Last week I passed the scene of an accident where an almost-new Mercedes had skidded off a dual carriageway and into a bridge parapet at high speed. We were held by the police while two air ambulances took off en route to hospital and I gather two more people were dead inside the car.
Now obviously I can only speculate but as most new cars are supplied with summer tyres and it was near-freezing at the time, I wonder if the outcome could have been different had the car been shod correctly - I do think as someone with influence you should be advising folks to consider the correct tyres for the seasons.
No worries my friend, I totally understand and appreciate the clarification. This is a good idea, I'll do another updated version of one my earlier videos that touches on tyre selection - it is sadly overlooked by most drivers. th-cam.com/video/2Wk8zgJija4/w-d-xo.html
I think most people assume ALL SEASON tyres are good in all seasons, but the reality is that they are not totally useless in all seasons.
And always know your tires. Are they hard or soft compound, new or old, worn or not, cold or warm. Wrapped one car around a pole due to rear hydroplaning in a heavy rain. Tight spot, front crabbed the curb and the rest is history. Fortunately the speed was low enough and the car lived to tell its tale, but it was an expensive oversight on my part. Vastly overestimated the state of tires and their overall ability to do their job effectively.