Hi Doc. Love the video diary's. A suggestion. It seems you are tying down the structure of the Polaris above the suspension points. That means that when the trailer is on the road and moving with its own suspension your tie downs are not only trying to hold down the Polaris but are also fighting the natural work of the Polaris suspension, so the straps will never stay tight. If at all possible try and anchor the wheels below the suspension points. That will fix the wheels solid but allow the Polaris to move on its own suspension when the trailer is moving. Not a problem as the Polaris is not going any where but you are not trying to counter act the movement of the suspension. Its difficult to explain but I am sure you undestand. Here in the UK all vehicles when on a transporter are fixed down with either webbing nets over the tyres or anchor points on the lower (non sprung) part of the suspension. Not sure how cars are fixed down on transporters in the US. 73's from across the pond:
Agreed I have hauled many things and never heard of a quality strap loosening up like that. Sure any strap can stretch but on the whole most tie down straps are static not dynamic. I find it hard to believe that a friction clasp is going to do a better job than a ratcheting strap but in any case I don't think its going to be a failure or either methods lock down mechanism but rather your choice of tie down points. In the towing industry it is common to use over the wheel tie downs since they are on the unsprung part of the suspension and save for give in the tire are relatively static and much less prone to exhibiting strap looseness through the worst highway and off-road conditions. Something like this would accomidate an atv/utv www.harborfreight.com/over-the-wheel-tie-down-bonnet-97230.html Otherwise on the whole try to find a tie down location that is lower on your vehicle and you will put less stress on the vehicle frame and less stored potential energy in your straps. That last thing you want is for your straps to fail on the upstroke of a vertical bump in the road and to release all of that stored energy at the same time.
I have used Shockstraps for several years now. I have the ratchet type though. I don't feel the cam version on all four corners will adequately tie it tight enough.
I know it's been quite a while since you posted this Shock Strap video. I have been hauling farm equipment since i was little on Grandpas Farm. We always used chain and turnbuckles to secure equipment. I know many of my equipment hauler friends (truck drivers) don't trust straps because they do stretch. Sure enjoy your VLOG. --Bill
I noticed you have some covers on your tractor chains to keep from scratching the paint on your Kubota could you tell me where you got those . Thanks for the great videos and you have a beautiful place . Mike Holloway
Thanks for watching Mike! The chain covers are repurposed firehose. I did a couple of videos covering projects with firehose. You can find them by doing a search on my channel page.
Another option, if it's inconvenient tying below the suspension, and you have a big ole boy or 2 (or gals), tighten your ratchet strap reasonably tight, then have your assistants sit on the Polaris. Now really crank down on the ratchet . Still may move a little, but not much. Only downside, you'll need that extra .....ummmm......compression weight .
You want to strap using an "X" pattern. So if your standing at the back of your trailer, the strap coming from the right/rear corner of the trailer hold down/anchor point should be attached to the left/rear of the Polaris and so on for the rest. Another poster mentioned about attaching the strap below the suspension which I would also try if your towing on rough roads, normally we don't need to.
No you don't want to x anything. If you lose a strap the other will pull the vehicle sideways. You also want to strap below the suspension everytime you can. The suspension bouncing is what's causing your straps to get loose. You always want to let your suspension travel and strap to the wheel or as close as you can to it
You really want to tie the wheels down. If you hook to the frame you can never get really secure. We in the Model T community do it diff. Keep the car from hopping of and sliding .Look at some of these pics for tips/ideas. www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/461002.html
Hi Doc. Love the video diary's. A suggestion. It seems you are tying down the structure of the Polaris above the suspension points. That means that when the trailer is on the road and moving with its own suspension your tie downs are not only trying to hold down the Polaris but are also fighting the natural work of the Polaris suspension, so the straps will never stay tight. If at all possible try and anchor the wheels below the suspension points. That will fix the wheels solid but allow the Polaris to move on its own suspension when the trailer is moving. Not a problem as the Polaris is not going any where but you are not trying to counter act the movement of the suspension. Its difficult to explain but I am sure you undestand. Here in the UK all vehicles when on a transporter are fixed down with either webbing nets over the tyres or anchor points on the lower (non sprung) part of the suspension. Not sure how cars are fixed down on transporters in the US. 73's from across the pond:
Agreed I have hauled many things and never heard of a quality strap loosening up like that. Sure any strap can stretch but on the whole most tie down straps are static not dynamic. I find it hard to believe that a friction clasp is going to do a better job than a ratcheting strap but in any case I don't think its going to be a failure or either methods lock down mechanism but rather your choice of tie down points. In the towing industry it is common to use over the wheel tie downs since they are on the unsprung part of the suspension and save for give in the tire are relatively static and much less prone to exhibiting strap looseness through the worst highway and off-road conditions. Something like this would accomidate an atv/utv www.harborfreight.com/over-the-wheel-tie-down-bonnet-97230.html Otherwise on the whole try to find a tie down location that is lower on your vehicle and you will put less stress on the vehicle frame and less stored potential energy in your straps. That last thing you want is for your straps to fail on the upstroke of a vertical bump in the road and to release all of that stored energy at the same time.
I have used Shockstraps for several years now. I have the ratchet type though. I don't feel the cam version on all four corners will adequately tie it tight enough.
I know it's been quite a while since you posted this Shock Strap video.
I have been hauling farm equipment since i was little on Grandpas Farm. We always used chain and turnbuckles to secure equipment. I know many of my equipment hauler friends (truck drivers) don't trust straps because they do stretch.
Sure enjoy your VLOG.
--Bill
I agree! I was testing these out. I use chain and ratchet turnbuckles when I transport the tractor.
I suggest strapping down across the tires or strapping down the each suspension point enough to compress the suspension.
This is a better away.. over the tires or threw the tires.
That looks interesting. Let us know how they work please. I'm always looking for a better product.
Interesting....can't wait to see what your final opinion is on these.
An interesting product. I look forward to your more in-depth review. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Doc! I ordered four. CommsPrepper
great review they look good but i prefer a ratchet tie to a pull tie do they make these with the ratchet?
A ratchet version is in the works. Ratchet would be my preference.
I noticed you have some covers on your tractor chains to keep from scratching the paint on your Kubota could you tell me where you got those .
Thanks for the great videos and you have a beautiful place .
Mike Holloway
Thanks for watching Mike! The chain covers are repurposed firehose. I did a couple of videos covering projects with firehose. You can find them by doing a search on my channel page.
There are some that argue against it due to cost to which I say, "Can you really justify cheaping out on peace of mind?"
Always informative. Interesting. 73
Another option, if it's inconvenient tying below the suspension, and you have a big ole boy or 2 (or gals), tighten your ratchet strap reasonably tight, then have your assistants sit on the Polaris. Now really crank down on the ratchet . Still may move a little, but not much. Only downside, you'll need that extra .....ummmm......compression weight .
Thanks for sharing.
You want to strap using an "X" pattern.
So if your standing at the back of your trailer, the strap coming from the right/rear corner of the trailer hold down/anchor point should be attached to the left/rear of the Polaris and so on for the rest.
Another poster mentioned about attaching the strap below the suspension which I would also try if your towing on rough roads, normally we don't need to.
Roger that . . . thanks!
No you don't want to x anything. If you lose a strap the other will pull the vehicle sideways. You also want to strap below the suspension everytime you can. The suspension bouncing is what's causing your straps to get loose. You always want to let your suspension travel and strap to the wheel or as close as you can to it
You really want to tie the wheels down. If you hook to the frame you can never get really secure. We in the Model T community do it diff. Keep the car from hopping of and sliding .Look at some of these pics for tips/ideas. www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/461002.html
You? A gear guy? Noooooooo . . . :-)