Thanks for your time in making this video! Thought of this tip... Bye your product in multiple minimum purchases, so as to get the machine for as many days. If you need that much of course.
Thanks for this video. I watched it several times and finally got the job done with my siblings to insulate my parents attic. We could feel the inside of the house much warmer just a couple hours after.
Greetings from germany. Very good. Insulation like this made in germany for more than 25 years. Company was isofloc. Your system is very helpfull. Here you cant do it by yourself. Must order a company and the machine. Can help fill the machine and tape the holes after finnishing. 100%.
Tried something a bit different with this video! Had a bunch of fun making these. Does anyone have any other ideas on what they'd like to see next? I will be renting a pain gun setup from Home Depot as well so I might make one on that. Let me know.
Dude, I gotta give you a huge shout out for the unexpected video game homage for choosing your characters and their items! I came here to learn and ended up laughing my ass off so thank you on two levels :)
haha Thanks David, happy to hear that. At the time I was really into PUBG so it motivated me to make a fun video. Definitely took a bit more time than the others but I think this was well worth it. Thanks for watching.
It's treated with boric acid,which makes it mold resistant,and bugs hate boric acid......and 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 the gear selection brung back good memories of my video game days.... socom!!!!
Helpful video, thank you! Did our old attic on the weekend - HD did not have the deal on the rental, but we did get a deal buying 30bags or more. Everything else went smoothly!
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Awesome video! If I may add in my 2 cents to further help anyone it's a good idea to can foam around all lights and punctures through the ceiling before you blow in for maximum air sealant!!
I'm pre-installing fiberglass batts and OSB on top of it in my attached garage attic (the house part of the attic is already insulated). After that's all done I'll blow in cellulose loose fill on top of the OSB/fiberglass. Is it overkill to install batts and OSB first? You bet it is. But I don't want to fall through and break my ankle like you said. Plus this way gets me some insulation to start and will leave me with a nice walk area in the garage (for inspecting the roof). I'll build an elevated walk area in the house too for the same reason. Easy to inspect and no risk of falling. Will probably top off my 10 year old house insulation at some point as well. Oh, I'm air sealing the garage attic as well. Already did some of it.
LOL the segment @6:00 was awesome. Doesn't look like you really had anything to air seal before blowing in? Just a reminder to anyone looking to do this to make sure your ceiling is 100% air tight before blowing in(can lights, wall top plates, pipes and electrical chases, electrical boxes, duct plenums, around chimneys etc. This is as, if not more important than the insulation itself!
Hi Dan, yea that's a good call. The vapor barrier on the ceiling was all taped up/sealed. All the wires and perforations were all taken care of. Good advice. Thanks for watching.
Hi Hugo, How much you spent in total? Rental price for the blower for 24 hours, the cellulose itself( how many bags and how much in total?) and the gear protection for 2?
I'd have to double check but I recall it was probably around 700$ CAD. Protection suites we bought on amazon for almost nothing. Blower price in included at the Home Depot if you buy enough insulation and that was around 650$ or so.
Hugo, where did you buy your Cardboard Attic Baffles ? Planning a similar project here to insulate my garage ceiling here in the Quebec Laurentians before it gets too cold outside.
Hi Stephane, I ordered it from 'materiaux lavoie' a construction supplier here in the Outaouais. They supplied the insulation and added a pack of carboard baffles. I thought you could get them at the home depot but I checked and it doesn't look like it.
Thanks for doing this video. I'm about to do the same in my house. Nice to see another first timer do it first! **Video Tip** Not sure which editing software you use, but getting your different audio to similar levels would help. At worst, stick a limiter on the Main Output to help with the leveling. I got blown out a couple times while watching this. Thanks again! Love the video game gear selection section.
Hey J.R. - you'll find that it's pretty easy, like a lot of other jobs it's mostly make it or break it in the prep. Thanks for the tip with the audio - I'm still struggling with that, will look into the limiter to level everything out. Feel free to pop in if you have any questions. Hope it helped. Good luck!
@@HugoBuilds Thanks. That whole prep thing makes all the difference. And you probably have a stock limiter plugin in whatever editing software you use. They usually come with it.
@@JRMooreMusic will go watch TH-cam videos on audio right now! haha. I think for this particular video I had taken off the mic and forgot to put it back on - I filmed a bunch of stuff with the mic off and couldn't re shoot everything so I worked with what I had.. that sucked.
Thanks! Always trying to raise the bar with the edits, I feel like I came a long way from the first video but still a long ways to go. Thanks for watching, dude!
Hello, my name is Christina and recently bought an old house (100 years). I found out there is no insulation in the walls after moved in. Your video is very valuable which educate a lot information about the insulation. The house is extremely cold in cold times, and cost a lot to heat it. Do u think I should do the insulation first, or what else should I do to keep warm? Thank you so much Have a good day
Ideally you want insulation in the walls and roof. I'm not sure what your budget is - ripping out all the drywall to insulate the walls is very expensive. There's ways to blow in insulation in the wall cavities by drilling holes at the top and bottom. However - if you are on a limited budget the best bet is probably to insulate the attic. It's usually easier access and heat rises so it will be the best area to fix to minimize heat loss. Good luck!
Most old houses can be drilled between the studs with a about 2" hole then cellulose is pumped through a smaller diameter hose.. Once all the insulation is installed ..patch the holes
It's easy if the machine is set right and has very low output. I find it's really hard to see with high output. If you want to learn more about attic insulation checkout my TH-cam channel.
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
I have hired contractor to do this 2 years ago, but there were some renovation works involving walking in the attic. I found that some areas were stepped on and the insulation got packed. Should it need to add insulation again?
Hopefully it will bounce back, if it's really compressed you could always rent the machine and buy a couple of bags to top it off. You can install a 2x8 boardwalk up there ontop of the insulation to make sure stuff doesn't get compressed in the future. Thanks for watching!
Great video... i'm looking to insulate the attic area above my garage but i also want to lay plywood down for additional storage area. Would you rec. blow in cellulose if just regular insulation ?
I think you should shoot insulation first and build a storage area above it so you don't compress the insulation. You can build the structure first and then shoot or lay what ever insulation so that it's not compressed by the storage. My 2 cents!
Hey, happy to see you dropped by, hope you stick around. Really cool that you focus on the finance of doing stuff. It's crazy how much prices vary from area to area but it really makes me rethink what I'm spending on some stuff. How did you feel waking up this morning with an extra 1000 subs!? good job!
I will stick around I am very curious to see how things get done up North, there is always something to learn! I can already tell I can learn from you, your edits are way better then mine. Long way to go I got some crazy ambitious plans for the channel I actually want to help society with housing, got some interesting plans. @@HugoBuilds
Thank you for the video. Appreciate it! Q about the vapor barrier...why did you include that as I have read many places that it's not needed unless you are installing in a very cold climate...oh but you are in Canada i think i saw so I guess that's the reason...
Just a heads up for anyone wanting to do this. Regarding cellulose vs fiberglass, I have gone both ways. The problem with cellulose is that it compacts and fiberglass in general will not. This does take time to compress, but I can tell you that my 18" of cellulose compacted almost to the floor joists in about 20 years. That's about an inch a year and a significant loss of R value. I know this seems to be a controversial topic, but this is just my experience.
Thanks! As far as I know, there is never drywall in the attic itself unless you plan on using it as livable space.. generally, the attic is an unfinished unconditioned space meaning air from the outside can flow freely inside and is vented out through a variety of vents on the roof. If by glowing you mean that you can see light coming from the floor below; you're right. We had not yet installed drywall when we did the insulation. We did have strapping, also known as furring, 1x3" wood strips 16" o.c. on the ceiling that held the plastic on tight. We needed to insulate the attic before installing the drywall because we were getting a lot of condensation on the underside of the ceiling because of the warm house air hitting the cold air from the attic. Once we had it insulated, the underside of the vapour barrier was able to dry out and we installed drywall shortly after that. You can check out the drywall episode right after to see what that looked like from inside. Thanks for watching, dude! Have a good one.
HugoBuilds I’ve never seen this done without the ceiling underneath being dry walled. Did you screw all that wood through the poly? How is it going to be air tight afterwards?
@@karrarmstrong The ceiling underneath was drywalled shortly after - like I explained, we couldn't drywall because of condensation issues we were having. The drywall really isn't supporting the weight of the insulation in our case. There is 1x4 strapping underneath that is keeping everything tight, the max span that vapor barrier has to support is 12". We did end up screwing that wood through the poly - but that's always the case, the poly has to be behind your drywall and your drywall has to be screwed to studs so you're perforating it with all those screws in either case. I don't know the exact science behind this but I think you're just trying to minimize the air loss by minimizing amount of screws you put in. The strapping is attached tight enough to the poly that it's kind of acting as a gasket and is limiting the amount of air that can get through. Even in the best case scenario, your poly will never be 100% air tight.
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Wow, im litteraly a contractor I feel embarrassed to say it but my hvac system has disconnected ducts, uninsulated terminations to the first floor No mastic on any transition. Ive been working up there for the past week to get it done but i had no idea it was that bad, I thought I would have to spend thousands to fix my ac but i just did it for $50 lol.
My pleasure. Sorry for the late reply. You can keep it anywhere really as long as the pipe will reach. It will get pretty messy around it so the garage seems like a good plan if you can reach. Good luck .
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
I will be blowing cellulose insulation over R19 batts - what about junction boxes, light fixtures, and bathroom exhaust fans that recess through ceiling into attic - do they need to be covered with wood or sterofoam box to have a entry access and also to keep cellulose from covering and to eliminate overheating- or is this not a problem- if so, where can these products or materials to make these items be purchased? BIGFROG
Junction boxes and exhaust fans don't generate any appreciable heat, so no you don't need any type of box/barier to keep the insulation away, go ahead and bury them. Where I live code requires a continuous vapor barrier between the cieling drywall and the trusses/cieling joists, that includes covering, and sealing all light/exhaust fan penetrations with vapor barrier as well. (If the junction box is only accessible from the attic, and not below, then flag it, or try to move it up above the insulation so it will be accessible. Recessed (pot lights) if they are rated for insulated ceilings, don't need a box to separate them either. Recessed lighting that isn't rated for insulated ceilings should have a box to keep the insulation 3" away, not because the cellulose will burn, but to prevent the light can from over heating, and burning the wiring. Cellulose insulates so much better than any fiberglass product, you should notice a difference when winter weather comes around. If you live where winter's are mild , or non existent, your home will stay several degrees cooler during the day next summer. Good luck.
Yes they have to be covered or rated to be covered with insulation. To be safe I would suggest covering them and give the fixtures a bit of breathing room before covering everything up.
@@HugoBuilds Yes, true for recessed can/pot lights that aren't IC rated. I think his question also includes octagon boxes for flushmount/pendant type light fixtures, and smoke detectors which only require a sealed vapor barrier over them, same for bathroom exhaust fans. ( assuming I'm interpreting his question properly).
stupid question, how long is the hose that comes with the machine? I would need to stage in my garage, and go up two flights of stairs and to the back corner of my house just to get to the room with the attic hatch.
You can get extensions from the home depot. I think by default they give you about 100' of hose. I had mine at the bottom of the stairs so it went up the stairs and the attic hatch wasn't too far from there, in the attic I went another 50' inside towards the front of the house.
It definitely helps with high frequency sounds.. I don't know if it would be as good as something like Roxul safe n' sound. It won't do much for low frequency noise transmission that happens through the house members such as joists and studs. Check out my sound proofing video for a better idea!
@@mattfirth3078 Still not paying you guys to do something I can do myself. I can do it better anyway by having a walk area for inspection later. You guys would just bury everything.
Thanks! I think we saved a crap load. I think I had a quote for about 13k + tax for all the house insulation. I did it for about 2k~ and my own labour. Not sure how much of that went to the roof but I only spent about 7-800$ in the attic for the machine/materials.
You used strapping to hold the poly/insulation? Why not doing your ceiling drywall instead? you probably have a bunch of holes in your poly now, no? Where did you build?
Not so bad to be honest. Where the machine was was a bit of a mess but localized to one area. Attic got pretty dusty but you could still see just fine.
Thinking they blow same at a higher pressure with Air and water injection making it damp compacting same filling voids and also makes it stick between the batts www.thespruce.com/cellulose-insulation-basics-1821904 th-cam.com/video/PO_LGJ-176E/w-d-xo.html
That's right. I've never worked with it in walls but there are plenty of videos on TH-cam where I've seen it done. Need some sort of membrane in front to hold it all in. Seems like a pain!
haha I think I had a counter setup when I was editing. Ended up being too much of a pita to add to the video.. Sorry for anyone hung over tomorrow morning D:
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Yes it does sink. You are supposed to take that into account when planning your job. The thickness required to get the achieved R value is after the sinking has taken place for a year or so. They have charts for the 'fluffed' height and the compacted height.
You say you get more R value per inch but that product settles and loses up to 20% whereas fiberglass only settles 2%. So you actually need to add more of this product to get the same R value after settling....
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
haha they are fun to slap. I was working on a slap counter for this video but it didn't make it into the final edit. That said, you're not the first one to mention it. Thanks for watching!
Niosie job and Messi. But cellulose is the best insulation and not fiberglass insulation because it can corse damage to the aittc the blowing machine is loud noise it pumps insulation in the aittc a a a Prosn is in the aittc and spread the insulation if that is my choice to cellulose and not fiberglass I'll be happy to have cellulose insulation and with too good looking guys who are handsome man who will will load the machine
I actually want to pay to get rid of all cellulose that was sprayed in my house attic. That crap is dusty, impossible to see anything beneath insulation, pests, etc. Doesnt air seal and I doubt it's any good for indoor air quality
@HugoBuilds I have fiberglass and then cellulose on top. I want to replace with spray foam on roof rafters and get rid of insulation on the attic floor. Got quote $7k for 2in closed cell, then open cell to meet R38 code, and fire resistance barrier paint on top. Includes getting rid of old insulation
@@IYG-x7c Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Thats way too much .i worked doing that ..16 inches high .u can do like. 3 houses with 70 bags .u dont want to over. Spray more than 14 inches.it be to heavy on ur sheetrock
Hi Ricardo, it is what is required by code here in this northern climate. R60 in attics. It's also what is recommended from the manufacturer. I followed the pre-compacted depth chart.. after a few months it should settle a bit to it's final thickness. Weight is really not an issue since it's really well distributed. As you can see this was sprayed on vapour barrier only that was held in place by 1x3 strapping. No weight is actually touching the sheetrock.
Permanent Ear Damage? Did you REALLY have to have 3X volume BLAST of music? Using headphones will make your videos unwatchable. Seriously, review your videos for stuff like that before posting.
Sorry John, I'm not a professional audio engineer.. I'm just learning the software and I make these videos myself on my spare time, at the same time of building a house and working a full-time job. I try to make them entertaining and some times they have some issues. Thanks for your constructive feedback.
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Thanks for your time in making this video! Thought of this tip... Bye your product in multiple minimum purchases, so as to get the machine for as many days. If you need that much of course.
Great hack to extend the machine. I'm sure I'll end up using that some day. Will pin this comment. Thanks
"With two people, you can actually do this yourself."
Love it!
haha. Not the most elegant way to put it. With some help from a friend - it's possible not to have to hire a professional.. is what I meant to say :)
Yes but you go back to from the machine is not a good idea be careful with the blowing machine and I can't believe you want to do it on your own
@@hazelkettle4642 I did it alone with two people, we blew in 600 bags
The PUBG theme is the greatest thing I've ever seen.........
haha I was super into PUBG at the time.. COD next maybe? :P
Thanks for this video. I watched it several times and finally got the job done with my siblings to insulate my parents attic. We could feel the inside of the house much warmer just a couple hours after.
Sweet! Congrats. I hope the video helped! Thanks for watching.
Greetings from germany. Very good. Insulation like this made in germany for more than 25 years. Company was isofloc. Your system is very helpfull. Here you cant do it by yourself. Must order a company and the machine. Can help fill the machine and tape the holes after finnishing. 100%.
Thanks for sharing North Americans love their DIY stuff, I'm assuming that's why it's available this way. Thanks for watching.
Tried something a bit different with this video! Had a bunch of fun making these. Does anyone have any other ideas on what they'd like to see next? I will be renting a pain gun setup from Home Depot as well so I might make one on that. Let me know.
Dude, I gotta give you a huge shout out for the unexpected video game homage for choosing your characters and their items! I came here to learn and ended up laughing my ass off so thank you on two levels :)
haha Thanks David, happy to hear that. At the time I was really into PUBG so it motivated me to make a fun video. Definitely took a bit more time than the others but I think this was well worth it. Thanks for watching.
It's treated with boric acid,which makes it mold resistant,and bugs hate boric acid......and 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 the gear selection brung back good memories of my video game days.... socom!!!!
haha gaming kept me sane during this time :) thanks for watching. COD next maybe?
Helpful video, thank you! Did our old attic on the weekend - HD did not have the deal on the rental, but we did get a deal buying 30bags or more.
Everything else went smoothly!
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Addressed in your other comment.
Glad it worked out. I was told that HD did remove the deal on the rental. This video dates back a few years now.
Awesome video! If I may add in my 2 cents to further help anyone it's a good idea to can foam around all lights and punctures through the ceiling before you blow in for maximum air sealant!!
Travis M great idea Travis.
Great idea. If there is any air leakage I can feel a year in it's where we were a bit sloppy in those areas.
Great idea Travis! Glad I read the comments for this piece of advice!
loved the PubG reference. Looking forward to doing mine alone with my son...:)
Sounds great. Have fun! Haven't played PUBG in a while, I miss it!
I'm pre-installing fiberglass batts and OSB on top of it in my attached garage attic (the house part of the attic is already insulated). After that's all done I'll blow in cellulose loose fill on top of the OSB/fiberglass. Is it overkill to install batts and OSB first? You bet it is. But I don't want to fall through and break my ankle like you said. Plus this way gets me some insulation to start and will leave me with a nice walk area in the garage (for inspecting the roof). I'll build an elevated walk area in the house too for the same reason. Easy to inspect and no risk of falling. Will probably top off my 10 year old house insulation at some point as well.
Oh, I'm air sealing the garage attic as well. Already did some of it.
Can never have too much insulation. Might be over kill but you will be well comfortable in there and it will be super efficient! Nice job!
🙂 Good Job folks - learned lots - will give it a go. Hope your home is nice and cozy!
Thanks so much. We've been in it for over 3 years now and I can say that it is in fact nice and cozy! good luck!
LOL the segment @6:00 was awesome. Doesn't look like you really had anything to air seal before blowing in? Just a reminder to anyone looking to do this to make sure your ceiling is 100% air tight before blowing in(can lights, wall top plates, pipes and electrical chases, electrical boxes, duct plenums, around chimneys etc. This is as, if not more important than the insulation itself!
Hi Dan, yea that's a good call. The vapor barrier on the ceiling was all taped up/sealed. All the wires and perforations were all taken care of. Good advice. Thanks for watching.
Hi Hugo, How much you spent in total? Rental price for the blower for 24 hours, the cellulose itself( how many bags and how much in total?) and the gear protection for 2?
I'd have to double check but I recall it was probably around 700$ CAD. Protection suites we bought on amazon for almost nothing. Blower price in included at the Home Depot if you buy enough insulation and that was around 650$ or so.
Hugo, where did you buy your Cardboard Attic Baffles ? Planning a similar project here to insulate my garage ceiling here in the Quebec Laurentians before it gets too cold outside.
Hi Stephane, I ordered it from 'materiaux lavoie' a construction supplier here in the Outaouais. They supplied the insulation and added a pack of carboard baffles. I thought you could get them at the home depot but I checked and it doesn't look like it.
I was wondering the same too. I’m in Florida and I haven’t seen those down here.
Bugs, Silverfish like to eat the glue in cardboard in attic here in Florida. I would stick with another solution sold from Home Depot.
Thanks for doing this video. I'm about to do the same in my house. Nice to see another first timer do it first! **Video Tip** Not sure which editing software you use, but getting your different audio to similar levels would help. At worst, stick a limiter on the Main Output to help with the leveling. I got blown out a couple times while watching this. Thanks again! Love the video game gear selection section.
Hey J.R. - you'll find that it's pretty easy, like a lot of other jobs it's mostly make it or break it in the prep. Thanks for the tip with the audio - I'm still struggling with that, will look into the limiter to level everything out. Feel free to pop in if you have any questions. Hope it helped. Good luck!
@@HugoBuilds Thanks. That whole prep thing makes all the difference. And you probably have a stock limiter plugin in whatever editing software you use. They usually come with it.
@@JRMooreMusic will go watch TH-cam videos on audio right now! haha. I think for this particular video I had taken off the mic and forgot to put it back on - I filmed a bunch of stuff with the mic off and couldn't re shoot everything so I worked with what I had.. that sucked.
Your content is getting better and better! I’m excited to see what comes next!!
Thanks! Always trying to raise the bar with the edits, I feel like I came a long way from the first video but still a long ways to go. Thanks for watching, dude!
I have to ask if the cellulose has helped in keeping the temperature constant?
The pubg Got the modern look to the videos Love it haha
Thanks dude, glad you liked it.
Hello, my name is Christina and recently bought an old house (100 years). I found out there is no insulation in the walls after moved in. Your video is very valuable which educate a lot information about the insulation. The house is extremely cold in cold times, and cost a lot to heat it. Do u think I should do the insulation first, or what else should I do to keep warm?
Thank you so much
Have a good day
Ideally you want insulation in the walls and roof. I'm not sure what your budget is - ripping out all the drywall to insulate the walls is very expensive. There's ways to blow in insulation in the wall cavities by drilling holes at the top and bottom. However - if you are on a limited budget the best bet is probably to insulate the attic. It's usually easier access and heat rises so it will be the best area to fix to minimize heat loss. Good luck!
Most old houses can be drilled between the studs with a about 2" hole then cellulose is pumped through a smaller diameter hose.. Once all the insulation is installed ..patch the holes
Blown in cellouse insulation is my favourite when I'm 21 I will build my own house and use blown in cellouse insulation
Yea, it's really easy to work with. I will reuse it in my future projects.
It's easy if the machine is set right and has very low output. I find it's really hard to see with high output. If you want to learn more about attic insulation checkout my TH-cam channel.
Wow. Blown in, pubg style. Hahaha I love it. Subscribed. Love the sense of humor and your devotion to a good video.
Thanks! Welcome aboard. Happy you enjoyed the video!
thanks for the video ,im going to use fiberglass rolls .
Good luck!
Teleprompter ftw. But also great video
Never used one in my life. Thanks for watching though!
Hello. What's attic insulation do you recommend for Orlando, Florida?
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Can't comment on warm climates. This stuff should work though!
Good job, I’m going the garage now to measure
Have fun!
Hey also have an attic insulation channel you can checkout. Love this video btw well put together
4:48 !!! amazing ! Great 'Job Bud!!
haha thanks! Years of acting classes paid off ;)
Essentially, I enjoyed the video
Essentially thank you. I'm working on it ;)
AMAZING SLAPS BAG. I LOVE IT
It's hard not to slap a bag of insulation.. is it just me?
excellent choice on player 2
She's awesome!
Awesome editing
I have hired contractor to do this 2 years ago, but there were some renovation works involving walking in the attic. I found that some areas were stepped on and the insulation got packed. Should it need to add insulation again?
Hopefully it will bounce back, if it's really compressed you could always rent the machine and buy a couple of bags to top it off. You can install a 2x8 boardwalk up there ontop of the insulation to make sure stuff doesn't get compressed in the future. Thanks for watching!
Great video... i'm looking to insulate the attic area above my garage but i also want to lay plywood down for additional storage area. Would you rec. blow in cellulose if just regular insulation ?
I think you should shoot insulation first and build a storage area above it so you don't compress the insulation. You can build the structure first and then shoot or lay what ever insulation so that it's not compressed by the storage. My 2 cents!
If you have to take a break while underway, do you just shut the machine off? Or is there a process to shut it down? Like should it be empty?
You can just shut it off temporarily from what I remember. It's been a while.
Hey Man, just saw you comment so I figured I would come and subscribe to your channel. I also saw you on reddit, I dig what you are doing, thumbs up.
Hey, happy to see you dropped by, hope you stick around. Really cool that you focus on the finance of doing stuff. It's crazy how much prices vary from area to area but it really makes me rethink what I'm spending on some stuff. How did you feel waking up this morning with an extra 1000 subs!? good job!
I will stick around I am very curious to see how things get done up North, there is always something to learn! I can already tell I can learn from you, your edits are way better then mine. Long way to go I got some crazy ambitious plans for the channel I actually want to help society with housing, got some interesting plans. @@HugoBuilds
"essence of essentials essentially" essentially yours :D
essentially I'm a bit fan of essentially apparently.
Thank you for the video. Appreciate it! Q about the vapor barrier...why did you include that as I have read many places that it's not needed unless you are installing in a very cold climate...oh but you are in Canada i think i saw so I guess that's the reason...
Thanks for watching! Yes, very cold climate. -40c to 40c from January to July. D: It's required by building code here.
Awesome video! Player 2 looks badass with the bandana, but why no toque?
So much work in that hair - toque would ruin it ;)
Just a heads up for anyone wanting to do this. Regarding cellulose vs fiberglass, I have gone both ways. The problem with cellulose is that it compacts and fiberglass in general will not. This does take time to compress, but I can tell you that my 18" of cellulose compacted almost to the floor joists in about 20 years. That's about an inch a year and a significant loss of R value. I know this seems to be a controversial topic, but this is just my experience.
I loved your video and very informative. However I am curious...did you not install drywall in the attic? I can see your ceiling glowing.
Thanks! As far as I know, there is never drywall in the attic itself unless you plan on using it as livable space.. generally, the attic is an unfinished unconditioned space meaning air from the outside can flow freely inside and is vented out through a variety of vents on the roof. If by glowing you mean that you can see light coming from the floor below; you're right. We had not yet installed drywall when we did the insulation. We did have strapping, also known as furring, 1x3" wood strips 16" o.c. on the ceiling that held the plastic on tight. We needed to insulate the attic before installing the drywall because we were getting a lot of condensation on the underside of the ceiling because of the warm house air hitting the cold air from the attic. Once we had it insulated, the underside of the vapour barrier was able to dry out and we installed drywall shortly after that. You can check out the drywall episode right after to see what that looked like from inside. Thanks for watching, dude! Have a good one.
HugoBuilds I think he means why isn’t the ceiling underneath drywalled???
HugoBuilds I’ve never seen this done without the ceiling underneath being dry walled.
Did you screw all that wood through the poly? How is it going to be air tight afterwards?
@@karrarmstrong The ceiling underneath was drywalled shortly after - like I explained, we couldn't drywall because of condensation issues we were having. The drywall really isn't supporting the weight of the insulation in our case. There is 1x4 strapping underneath that is keeping everything tight, the max span that vapor barrier has to support is 12". We did end up screwing that wood through the poly - but that's always the case, the poly has to be behind your drywall and your drywall has to be screwed to studs so you're perforating it with all those screws in either case. I don't know the exact science behind this but I think you're just trying to minimize the air loss by minimizing amount of screws you put in. The strapping is attached tight enough to the poly that it's kind of acting as a gasket and is limiting the amount of air that can get through. Even in the best case scenario, your poly will never be 100% air tight.
creative editing 10/10
Thanks man! I put a lot of work into this one!
What a great video! Very informative. I’m a fan. And I want one of those hats! 👍🏻
Thanks Frank. Happy you liked it. thanks for watching.
Good video...and funny too. Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video,thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it
How far does the Machine shoot the cellulose? Im looking to shoot some in my crawlspace, which is too tight to sprayfoam.
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
I had a 100' hose.
Love the PUBG thing! Subbed!
Thanks dude, way to go!
Great video man. What software you using for that floorplan shown at ~3:20?
Thank you! Floor plans were done in Autodesk Revit. I've done similar plans in Autocad and then spice them up with illustrator. thanks for watching.
That is a very cool trick on the video. Hey if you want to learn more about attic insulation checkout my new TH-cam channel.
Wow, im litteraly a contractor I feel embarrassed to say it but my hvac system has disconnected ducts, uninsulated terminations to the first floor No mastic on any transition. Ive been working up there for the past week to get it done but i had no idea it was that bad, I thought I would have to spend thousands to fix my ac but i just did it for $50 lol.
Where should I keep the machine? My garage, or somewhere closer to the attic?
Btw, thanks for the video!!!
My pleasure. Sorry for the late reply. You can keep it anywhere really as long as the pipe will reach. It will get pretty messy around it so the garage seems like a good plan if you can reach. Good luck .
By the way, I had a lot of fun to watch your video.👍👍👍👍👍👍
thanks for watching!
Great job bro great job
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Thanks
Can this stuff be sprayed over the Pink fiberglass?
Yes you can! Both are insulation, no need to remove the old stuff.
@@HugoBuilds thank you for your help brother 👍
I will be blowing cellulose insulation over R19 batts - what about junction boxes, light fixtures, and bathroom exhaust fans that recess through ceiling into attic - do they need to be covered with wood or sterofoam box to have a entry access and also to keep cellulose from covering and to eliminate overheating- or is this not a problem- if so, where can these products or materials to make these items be purchased? BIGFROG
Junction boxes and exhaust fans don't generate any appreciable heat, so no you don't need any type of box/barier to keep the insulation away, go ahead and bury them.
Where I live code requires a continuous vapor barrier between the cieling drywall and the trusses/cieling joists, that includes covering, and sealing all light/exhaust fan penetrations with vapor barrier as well.
(If the junction box is only accessible from the attic, and not below, then flag it, or try to move it up above the insulation so it will be accessible.
Recessed (pot lights) if they are rated for insulated ceilings, don't need a box to separate them either.
Recessed lighting that isn't rated for insulated ceilings should have a box to keep the insulation 3" away, not because the cellulose will burn, but to prevent the light can from over heating, and burning the wiring.
Cellulose insulates so much better than any fiberglass product, you should notice a difference when winter weather comes around.
If you live where winter's are mild , or non existent, your home will stay several degrees cooler during the day next summer.
Good luck.
Yes they have to be covered or rated to be covered with insulation. To be safe I would suggest covering them and give the fixtures a bit of breathing room before covering everything up.
@@HugoBuilds Yes, true for recessed can/pot lights that aren't IC rated.
I think his question also includes octagon boxes for flushmount/pendant type light fixtures, and smoke detectors which only require a sealed vapor barrier over them, same for bathroom exhaust fans.
( assuming I'm interpreting his question properly).
haha thanks,@@fartman2269 ! Great username by the way. Yes, I had misread the questions, appreciate the correction. Hope that helps.
stupid question, how long is the hose that comes with the machine? I would need to stage in my garage, and go up two flights of stairs and to the back corner of my house just to get to the room with the attic hatch.
You can get extensions from the home depot. I think by default they give you about 100' of hose. I had mine at the bottom of the stairs so it went up the stairs and the attic hatch wasn't too far from there, in the attic I went another 50' inside towards the front of the house.
A+ for graphics theme
Thank you! I spent way more time on this video than my others hah. I guess it paid off. Thanks for watching.
Does this type of installation work for sound proofing?
It definitely helps with high frequency sounds.. I don't know if it would be as good as something like Roxul safe n' sound. It won't do much for low frequency noise transmission that happens through the house members such as joists and studs. Check out my sound proofing video for a better idea!
Adding insulation in your attic will definitely increase the soundproofing of your house. Checkout my attic insulation channel.
Wow, that's a ton of insulation!
Indeed! Code requirement but for good reason.
Thanks Mr. Reynolds
haha I'll take it.
@@HugoBuilds when you have your hat on you looked like Deadpool 👍
@@jasonredepenning quite the username. Thanks for the compliment, I hope ;)
@@HugoBuilds Salty Army is legion 🧂🧂🧂🇺🇲
Super. Good tips
Thanks a lot!
You didn't air seal before blowing. Amazing
air seal what?
@@HugoBuilds the attic
Bruh the ceiling is literally just poly right now. There’s no penetrations at all. What would you seal?
I love this theme of this video!!! Hahahah
Can you please share the breakdown of the equipment and materials cost and compare it to the cost of having it done professionally
It's actually a lot faster and roughly about the same price to have it professionally done I'm in the business
@@mattfirth3078 Still not paying you guys to do something I can do myself. I can do it better anyway by having a walk area for inspection later. You guys would just bury everything.
I can't imagine it's the same price to get it done professionally. All in all it cost me around 700$ CAD to do it myself.
Thanks for the info! very useful
My pleasure.
Thank you. Really good video for first timers.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching. :)
Great Job! Gonna giver a try. How much do you think you saved?
Thanks! I think we saved a crap load. I think I had a quote for about 13k + tax for all the house insulation. I did it for about 2k~ and my own labour. Not sure how much of that went to the roof but I only spent about 7-800$ in the attic for the machine/materials.
You used strapping to hold the poly/insulation? Why not doing your ceiling drywall instead? you probably have a bunch of holes in your poly now, no? Where did you build?
Thank you.
You're welcome!
Do you need a vapor barrier with the blow in cellulose?
No you don't! Most of them come rated as a vapor barrier. Just make sure to check the technical data sheets.
Nicely done Hugo!
Thanks, Roch!
PUBG style, I like it
JG PUBG OG!
Good video
Thanks dude, appreciate it!
How dusty was the process?
Not so bad to be honest. Where the machine was was a bit of a mess but localized to one area. Attic got pretty dusty but you could still see just fine.
Are walls any different for cellulose installation?
Thinking they blow same at a higher pressure with Air and water injection making it damp compacting same filling voids and also makes it stick between the batts www.thespruce.com/cellulose-insulation-basics-1821904 th-cam.com/video/PO_LGJ-176E/w-d-xo.html
That's right. I've never worked with it in walls but there are plenty of videos on TH-cam where I've seen it done. Need some sort of membrane in front to hold it all in. Seems like a pain!
Check out insulwise
Will do!
Your so creative to make this video. I like you video , still make video 🤝👋
Thanks! I had a blast making it.
Take a shot every time he smacks the bags
haha I think I had a counter setup when I was editing. Ended up being too much of a pita to add to the video.. Sorry for anyone hung over tomorrow morning D:
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Yes it does sink. You are supposed to take that into account when planning your job. The thickness required to get the achieved R value is after the sinking has taken place for a year or so. They have charts for the 'fluffed' height and the compacted height.
You say you get more R value per inch but that product settles and loses up to 20% whereas fiberglass only settles 2%. So you actually need to add more of this product to get the same R value after settling....
Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Correct. You need to take settling into account.
Must be nice to have an attic tall enough to walk in...but I suppose you deal with a steep roof.
Yes, it makes it much easier. If you have a small house and a low slope roof you might have to do the whole thing through an attic hatch.
so essentially this is how you essentially do it??? essentially
You're essentially not the first to comment. Essentially. Thanks for watching!
Why can’t u just cut the bag open & spread it up there
Super compact. Need to mix it with air to fluff it up and remove clumps.
3 people are better 1 to blow 1 to feed and 1 to pull hose.
Sounds like my kind of party!
Do you like slapping a bag of franzia? Cause you slapped those bags about a dozen times before the 3 minute mark
haha they are fun to slap. I was working on a slap counter for this video but it didn't make it into the final edit. That said, you're not the first one to mention it. Thanks for watching!
Acoustic who?
yes?
lmao pubg awesome
those were the days.. :) Thanks for watching.
Pubg brought me here
haha happy to hear. I didn't think that was going to be a huge draw. PUBG was on my mind a lot back then.
Hey also have an attic insulation channel you can checkout. Love this video btw well put together
canooks are funny..
tell me aboot that, eh!
Niosie job and Messi. But cellulose is the best insulation and not fiberglass insulation because it can corse damage to the aittc the blowing machine is loud noise it pumps insulation in the aittc a a a
Prosn is in the aittc and spread the insulation if that is my choice to cellulose and not fiberglass I'll be happy to have cellulose insulation and with too good looking guys who are handsome man who will
will load the machine
Thanks!
I actually want to pay to get rid of all cellulose that was sprayed in my house attic. That crap is dusty, impossible to see anything beneath insulation, pests, etc. Doesnt air seal and I doubt it's any good for indoor air quality
And replace with fibre glass?
@HugoBuilds I have fiberglass and then cellulose on top. I want to replace with spray foam on roof rafters and get rid of insulation on the attic floor. Got quote $7k for 2in closed cell, then open cell to meet R38 code, and fire resistance barrier paint on top. Includes getting rid of old insulation
@@IYG-x7c Can someone address the sinking effect of cellulose please? I had over 10 inches blown in several years ago. They even left the paper sticks showing how much was blown in. Now it's all level with the rafter tops where you walk. Total waste of money. At least bats won't disappear over time like cellulose does.
Lol PUBG!
Glad you enjoyed it.
Music is way to loud!!
sorry dude - will keep in mind for future videos.
@@HugoBuilds All good :) Love your content
Thats way too much .i worked doing that ..16 inches high .u can do like. 3 houses with 70 bags .u dont want to over. Spray more than 14 inches.it be to heavy on ur sheetrock
Hi Ricardo, it is what is required by code here in this northern climate. R60 in attics. It's also what is recommended from the manufacturer. I followed the pre-compacted depth chart.. after a few months it should settle a bit to it's final thickness. Weight is really not an issue since it's really well distributed. As you can see this was sprayed on vapour barrier only that was held in place by 1x3 strapping. No weight is actually touching the sheetrock.
Haha gloves from costco
think I got them from Amazon!
I buy mine at the dollar store. Acrylic dipped is awesome. Checkout my TH-cam channel if you want to learn more about Attic insulation.
Permanent Ear Damage? Did you REALLY have to have 3X volume BLAST of music? Using headphones will make your videos unwatchable. Seriously, review your videos for stuff like that before posting.
Sorry John, I'm not a professional audio engineer.. I'm just learning the software and I make these videos myself on my spare time, at the same time of building a house and working a full-time job. I try to make them entertaining and some times they have some issues. Thanks for your constructive feedback.
player 2 was lame
to each their own.