I borrowed a friends origin 50 for a couple of months. Honestly, I liked it. Sounded great through my 2 x 12 with WGS speakers. Not as good as the 1980 JMP that I fell in love with which was the reason I was borrowing the origin...
Lead-free solder makes sense for copper plumbing (although solder-free connector are an even better choice). For electronics work, I say don't lick the leaded solder joints and you'll be just fine. lol
Lead is used to stop tin whiskering thus not a problem in water pipes . A very large problem in electrical applications . Control exposure and do not smoke and the problem is not a big one for repairmen .
They taught us in the military to wash our hands after handling solder. I don't lick the solder joints regardless of the capacitors looking like candy.
The problem is not you fucking around with it but with the workers who will do 8+h shifts handling that stuff. And from that perspective using lead free solder is a choice I am perfectly fine with.
I repaired three 1978 Yamaha CR-1020’s just because there was a factory service bulletin over burning under rated resistors on the power board. I’m no expert but if you can use some basic tools and follow a schematic it’s a wonderful introduction into electronics. Excellent videos, been enjoying seeing the diagnostics and repair techniques. Much to learn. Thanks.
At the rate folks are dropping tube amps for digital, including 98% of pros and recording studios, I’d expect to see tube amps only in museums and gear collectors in that time frame… I see very few guys lugging amps around anymore and a lot of gigs don’t even allow them anymore… Sad but the way it is…
@@alexwoolridge94aw I hear you man I own 4 Marshalls including the Origin 50, 6 Fender tube amps, and a couple others… The reality is everywhere you go they aren’t flying with the band anymore… I find myself using a Kemper more and more or a Helix, oddly enough I’m getting more fond of the HX stomp… I’ve got a pedalboard that fits in a gator case with the guitar and does pretty much everything I need, and my entire rig hangs off my shoulder…. That’s kinda convenient, and I doubt most people could tell the difference in the tone out front… so…. The reality is many venues require pretty much zero stage volume now, so you have to go in ears with the modern stuff….
For the factory output jack problem, this is likely because most PCB CAD packages dont have a simple easy way to have 2 nets being attached to each other. The Jack footprint they are using is probably universal so the extra steps needed dont get done to be able to connect these together. THe simple fix would be to have a special footprint where these are tied together and have it labeled as such. Otherwise use a "Net Tie" to fix this. The schematic/layout guy most likely figred he would come back to it and then forgot during lunch....
At 3:10, your temporary substitute resistor looks like a 200 ohm, not 220, so thats probably the reading you got on your ohm meter. I'm not colorblind, as Lyle is, though it can be difficult to differentiate colors on a small smartphone screen. In any case, the smartphone is only as smart as the guy holding it, ie: me! 🤔
I got same issue of powering on but no sound from the origins brother the dsl 20. Could it be same issue? Do you know if there was any service fixes put out for the dsl20 such as the wire needing to be soldered to the grounds like this origin amp?
just general info, the 50w head has the adjustable bias, no big deal I guess and I seen in another video that the power scaling is done thru the screens, dont know what thats all bout, theres no standby switch. its a $500 amp that kinda does a marshall thing, and you throw some pedals in front of it and go, its a little meh, but its alright. after a year and a half I had one of the stock EL34s start making noise, put in Mullard RIs, and the cv4004 in the PI (ya i switched it) that seemed to clean up the background noise, so its not as noisy I dont know, the tube couldve been going bad to begin with so theres that, now im thinking i need to check if mine has the jumper wire on it, Merry Xmas
Just got my origin 5 combo repaired; sound would drop or cut out especially when the amp was dimed. I think they switched out the relay for the overdrive boost. Anyway, wonder if it has same ground wire service notice??
Which marshall amp is the closest to this one? Because it sounds so good and i already compared with plexi and others but it seems much cleaner and much nicer, doesnt have that nasal annoying thing from marshall, i really like it. Do you know what is this scheme based on?
Looking at the pcb conections it looks like one could just scrape back the solder masking rigth next to the pin and slap on a good old blob 'o solder. You way might look nicer.
Mine just started acting funny today. I can get sound and plenty of volume from the single 8 ohm output, but with the single 16 ohm output I don't even get a hum
I have an origin 50. It steadily lost power for about 4hours of playing time. I may have put an eight ohm load where 16 was required. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
When I think back to all the pricks I knew that had one of these….they kept them in standby permanently anyhow. Effectively using them for night lights, while claiming they were keeping the tubes warm to be able to “jam” at will…
At 1:50, it looks like a 3.9k to me; i can see what appears to be a white band in the middle, which = 9; the 1st band was probably an Orange (3) which turned to Brown from the heat, and the final band, the multiplier, looks to be Red, therefore 3900 ohms. We will see if I am correct when you look at the schematic in the next few minutes.... [edit, and *boy was I wrong*! 150 ohms sorta makes sense electronically, but a green band turning whitish from heat? That's pretty weird. If the other 2 bands on either end are actually Brown then 190 ohms would make more sense than 150.....]
Is this a 20W amp? Was expecting EL84s, not EL34s. What's the B+ like? Why choose bigger more expensive tubes for a 20W amp? That's like putting a got-damned V8 into a golf cart... weird.
Question: just what happens if there's no load on the finals? Yes, I know it's a bad thing. But I don't think I've seen a good explanation as to what happens. Best I can figure is it's a parasitic oscillation of some kind. Perhaps the L of the output transformer combined with the C of stray capacitance forming resonate LC circuit that creates high voltage.
@@russellhltn1396 It's not a theory. I'm an EE (Electronics) who focuses on guitar amplification and its a fairly basic concept, with all due respect. A transformer is simply an inductor at heart. An electronically open/unloaded secondary will allow a powerful voltage to develop in the primary, as only that inductance will be presented to the tube plates. No resistance to the energy, so think limitless voltage elevation. Having no damping can easily cause that voltage to "fly back" to the primary coil, where insulation breakdown will likely occur.
I should supplement that by saying damage typically occurs with a signal present at the input. Preamp hiss can constitute a signal at the input when the instrument cable is absent. This is part of the reason why hot switching speaker impedance from the amp is frowned upon.
@@luthiervandros yes inductors can create high voltage, but it requires a change in current to do that. An amplifier that becomes unstable when unloaded will provide that needed "change". I've got a couple of cheap transistor amps from portable electronics built in the early 70's. It's a push-pull transistor amp with an output transformer. Both will oscillate when unloaded. One day I'll dig them out and see what kinds of voltages they create.
My Fender Vaporizer combo was lightly used at home from brand new, then put in clean dry normal room temperature storage for a couple of years. When I got it out again, it powers on, but no sound. Any suggestions ? cheers..
So Marshall Amplification has no business making amps because they don’t know what they are doing? Yeah ok lol… I love the internet! This is absolutely classic.. I suppose Fender should just go ahead a stop making guitars now because Leo had no idea what he was doing…. It’s an import Marshall amp built down to a price that sells thus keeping them in business, without amps like this Marshall would be history along with Mesa Engineering, Peavy and most other scale manufacturers, 3 thousand dollar amps don’t exactly fly off the shelf these days when the majority of the giging community is now using AxeFx, Kemper or Helix to make a living…. Tube amps are fast becoming home hobbyists and collectors items only and a collector isn’t buying a new amp for the collection, a the typical home hobbyists don’t find a 100 watt Plexi all that practical in their 1 bedroom apartment so… Marshall isn’t stupid, I’ll bet they are making plenty off these, dare I say more than the boutique guys put together….
I have an origin 50. It steadily lost power for about 4hours of playing time. I may have put an eight ohm load where 16 was required. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
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I just love getting a pros tour thru these amps that are currently out in the market. The information i get from this channel is priceless.
I borrowed a friends origin 50 for a couple of months. Honestly, I liked it. Sounded great through my 2 x 12 with WGS speakers. Not as good as the 1980 JMP that I fell in love with which was the reason I was borrowing the origin...
Lead-free solder makes sense for copper plumbing (although solder-free connector are an even better choice). For electronics work, I say don't lick the leaded solder joints and you'll be just fine. lol
Lead is used to stop tin whiskering thus not a problem in water pipes . A very large problem in electrical applications . Control exposure and do not smoke and the problem is not a big one for repairmen .
They taught us in the military to wash our hands after handling solder. I don't lick the solder joints regardless of the capacitors looking like candy.
I always hold my breath when I solder, and I will wash my hands after now that I know
The problem is not you fucking around with it but with the workers who will do 8+h shifts handling that stuff. And from that perspective using lead free solder is a choice I am perfectly fine with.
I’m a fan of your videos, your work and especially your snark.
Glad you have this seriously considering a combo version
Mitch Colby is The Best!! We've been friends for 30 years!
I repaired three 1978 Yamaha CR-1020’s just because there was a factory service bulletin over burning under rated resistors on the power board. I’m no expert but if you can use some basic tools and follow a schematic it’s a wonderful introduction into electronics. Excellent videos, been enjoying seeing the diagnostics and repair techniques. Much to learn. Thanks.
Something tells me these newer Marshalls will NOT be around 30-50 years like JMP's and JCM 800's!
Andy K for sure. I have a 1983 jcm800 2203 and I can rely on it. My new dsl40c not so much
Hmm very interesting comment indeed
At the rate folks are dropping tube amps for digital, including 98% of pros and recording studios, I’d expect to see tube amps only in museums and gear collectors in that time frame… I see very few guys lugging amps around anymore and a lot of gigs don’t even allow them anymore… Sad but the way it is…
@@robertw1871 because people like you have forgotten what has made music what it is today.
@@alexwoolridge94aw I hear you man I own 4 Marshalls including the Origin 50, 6 Fender tube amps, and a couple others… The reality is everywhere you go they aren’t flying with the band anymore… I find myself using a Kemper more and more or a Helix, oddly enough I’m getting more fond of the HX stomp… I’ve got a pedalboard that fits in a gator case with the guitar and does pretty much everything I need, and my entire rig hangs off my shoulder…. That’s kinda convenient, and I doubt most people could tell the difference in the tone out front… so…. The reality is many venues require pretty much zero stage volume now, so you have to go in ears with the modern stuff….
For the factory output jack problem, this is likely because most PCB CAD packages dont have a simple easy way to have 2 nets being attached to each other. The Jack footprint they are using is probably universal so the extra steps needed dont get done to be able to connect these together. THe simple fix would be to have a special footprint where these are tied together and have it labeled as such. Otherwise use a "Net Tie" to fix this. The schematic/layout guy most likely figred he would come back to it and then forgot during lunch....
Well done!
Thank you!! Had exactly the same problem!
Is that grounding issue shared with the Origin 50 as well?
KING!
At 3:10, your temporary substitute resistor looks like a 200 ohm, not 220, so thats probably the reading you got on your ohm meter. I'm not colorblind, as Lyle is, though it can be difficult to differentiate colors on a small smartphone screen. In any case, the smartphone is only as smart as the guy holding it, ie: me! 🤔
The middle band sure doesn't look red to me.
@@russellhltn1396 , I see red-black-black.....200 ohms. Close enough to get the amp working for testing purposes anyway....
I got same issue of powering on but no sound from the origins brother the dsl 20. Could it be same issue? Do you know if there was any service fixes put out for the dsl20 such as the wire needing to be soldered to the grounds like this origin amp?
just general info, the 50w head has the adjustable bias, no big deal I guess and I seen in another video that the power scaling is done thru the screens, dont know what thats all bout, theres no standby switch. its a $500 amp that kinda does a marshall thing, and you throw some pedals in front of it and go, its a little meh, but its alright. after a year and a half I had one of the stock EL34s start making noise, put in Mullard RIs, and the cv4004 in the PI (ya i switched it) that seemed to clean up the background noise, so its not as noisy I dont know, the tube couldve been going bad to begin with so theres that, now im thinking i need to check if mine has the jumper wire on it, Merry Xmas
150 ohm 5 watt u will find is a good choise
Did you notice that R13 wasn't soldered properly? Needs a bit more solder flowing
Earth shattering kaboom… Marvin the Martian…. 😂
Just got my origin 5 combo repaired; sound would drop or cut out especially when the amp was dimed. I think they switched out the relay for the overdrive boost. Anyway, wonder if it has same ground wire service notice??
Well done! 10 minute fix.
Which marshall amp is the closest to this one? Because it sounds so good and i already compared with plexi and others but it seems much cleaner and much nicer, doesnt have that nasal annoying thing from marshall, i really like it.
Do you know what is this scheme based on?
Looking at the pcb conections it looks like one could just scrape back the solder masking rigth next to the pin and slap on a good old blob 'o solder. You way might look nicer.
Mine just started acting funny today. I can get sound and plenty of volume from the single 8 ohm output, but with the single 16 ohm output I don't even get a hum
I have an origin 50. It steadily lost power for about 4hours of playing time. I may have put an eight ohm load where 16 was required. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
When I think back to all the pricks I knew that had one of these….they kept them in standby permanently anyhow.
Effectively using them for night lights, while claiming they were keeping the tubes warm to be able to “jam” at will…
Where’s the kaboom? There should have been an Earth shattering kaboom….
At 1:50, it looks like a 3.9k to me; i can see what appears to be a white band in the middle, which = 9; the 1st band was probably an Orange (3) which turned to Brown from the heat, and the final band, the multiplier, looks to be Red, therefore 3900 ohms. We will see if I am correct when you look at the schematic in the next few minutes.... [edit, and *boy was I wrong*! 150 ohms sorta makes sense electronically, but a green band turning whitish from heat? That's pretty weird. If the other 2 bands on either end are actually Brown then 190 ohms would make more sense than 150.....]
Yeah, I thought similarly. I also think it is crazy how you can see the resistive track burned around the body of the resistor.
I was thinking "190" but that seems like an odd value.
same problem on Fender X2 amps,those resistors just want to burn out
Where did find the schematic?
I have resources I cannot disclose.
@@PsionicAudio boo hiss :(
Is this a 20W amp? Was expecting EL84s, not EL34s. What's the B+ like? Why choose bigger more expensive tubes for a 20W amp? That's like putting a got-damned V8 into a golf cart... weird.
Question: just what happens if there's no load on the finals? Yes, I know it's a bad thing. But I don't think I've seen a good explanation as to what happens. Best I can figure is it's a parasitic oscillation of some kind. Perhaps the L of the output transformer combined with the C of stray capacitance forming resonate LC circuit that creates high voltage.
If we are on the same page, an unloaded OT secondary can bounce a reflected energy spike back through the transformer.
@@luthiervandros I have doubts about that theory. The frequencies are too low and the "transmission line" too short for me to see that.
@@russellhltn1396 It's not a theory. I'm an EE (Electronics) who focuses on guitar amplification and its a fairly basic concept, with all due respect.
A transformer is simply an inductor at heart. An electronically open/unloaded secondary will allow a powerful voltage to develop in the primary, as only that inductance will be presented to the tube plates. No resistance to the energy, so think limitless voltage elevation. Having no damping can easily cause that voltage to "fly back" to the primary coil, where insulation breakdown will likely occur.
I should supplement that by saying damage typically occurs with a signal present at the input. Preamp hiss can constitute a signal at the input when the instrument cable is absent. This is part of the reason why hot switching speaker impedance from the amp is frowned upon.
@@luthiervandros yes inductors can create high voltage, but it requires a change in current to do that. An amplifier that becomes unstable when unloaded will provide that needed "change". I've got a couple of cheap transistor amps from portable electronics built in the early 70's. It's a push-pull transistor amp with an output transformer. Both will oscillate when unloaded. One day I'll dig them out and see what kinds of voltages they create.
My Fender Vaporizer combo was lightly used at home from brand new, then put in clean dry normal room temperature storage for a couple of years.
When I got it out again, it powers on, but no sound.
Any suggestions ?
cheers..
So Marshall Amplification has no business making amps because they don’t know what they are doing? Yeah ok lol… I love the internet! This is absolutely classic.. I suppose Fender should just go ahead a stop making guitars now because Leo had no idea what he was doing…. It’s an import Marshall amp built down to a price that sells thus keeping them in business, without amps like this Marshall would be history along with Mesa Engineering, Peavy and most other scale manufacturers, 3 thousand dollar amps don’t exactly fly off the shelf these days when the majority of the giging community is now using AxeFx, Kemper or Helix to make a living…. Tube amps are fast becoming home hobbyists and collectors items only and a collector isn’t buying a new amp for the collection, a the typical home hobbyists don’t find a 100 watt Plexi all that practical in their 1 bedroom apartment so… Marshall isn’t stupid, I’ll bet they are making plenty off these, dare I say more than the boutique guys put together….
th-cam.com/video/c40BoCfbUQE/w-d-xo.html
Same problem with the jcm 2000 dsl 100 grounding between the jacks
I have an origin 50. It steadily lost power for about 4hours of playing time. I may have put an eight ohm load where 16 was required. Any help or assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.