Good basic design but get thyself a healthy car starter and use thicker cables and lugs (clips lack ampacity!). Your local welding supply has light gauge welding cable sold cut to length and offers some lugs. Depending on need I buy other copper lugs online or just bash some copper tubing flat then drill with a STEP DRILL (caps for emphasis!) which doesn't grab the copper. Step drill bits (Harbor Freight will do) are glorious for making/modding lugs. Your local auto electric rebuilder should have a large pile of starters/cores (no need for a new starter) and can advise you what might suit. I suggest bringing your current setup so they can see what you're working with. For convenience you could jump off a jump pack (I love my Clore JNC 660 and have had one since 2014 I just replaced the batteries in, they offer spare parts) but I'd fit a QD connector to whatever you use because jumper clamps limit ampacity. You can buy more than one connector to retain the jump pack cables. If using a car battery I suggest brass "marine" battery cable connectors on the battery side. I use dielectric grease on all such connections and inside crimped lugs to exclude moisture. Also check out the Doc Z paddock starters for ideas as theirs is among the best of breed and you can save a pile of cash sorting yours out rather than buying one.
You were definitely on to something....I did think that starter motor would be too small when compression was thrown in but I like the low profile design.
I'm doing the same thing right now. How did you attach the rollers to the rod? I used some of the larger rollers and screwed the sprocket directly into the rubber, but the screws pulled out under load. I got some of the smaller rollers like those, but I can't tell in the video, how you have them attached to the sprockets. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
We drilled 4 holes through the rollers and put threaded rod through them. Added a large washer with 4 holes drilled and put nuts on both ends, washers were welded to the shaft as well as the sprocket. Hope this helps 😁
Great design. Look forward to the modifications!
Good basic design but get thyself a healthy car starter and use thicker cables and lugs (clips lack ampacity!). Your local welding supply has light gauge welding cable sold cut to length and offers some lugs. Depending on need I buy other copper lugs online or just bash some copper tubing flat then drill with a STEP DRILL (caps for emphasis!) which doesn't grab the copper. Step drill bits (Harbor Freight will do) are glorious for making/modding lugs. Your local auto electric rebuilder should have a large pile of starters/cores (no need for a new starter) and can advise you what might suit. I suggest bringing your current setup so they can see what you're working with. For convenience you could jump off a jump pack (I love my Clore JNC 660 and have had one since 2014 I just replaced the batteries in, they offer spare parts) but I'd fit a QD connector to whatever you use because jumper clamps limit ampacity. You can buy more than one connector to retain the jump pack cables. If using a car battery I suggest brass "marine" battery cable connectors on the battery side. I use dielectric grease on all such connections and inside crimped lugs to exclude moisture. Also check out the Doc Z paddock starters for ideas as theirs is among the best of breed and you can save a pile of cash sorting yours out rather than buying one.
Thanks for all the info, I'll definitely be making some changes.
Cheers
You were definitely on to something....I did think that starter motor would be too small when compression was thrown in but I like the low profile design.
Thank you, I'm getting back to it this summer.
The best method is the engage the valve lifter, engage 2nd gear and turn the wheel then release the valve lifter. When it has fired engage clutch.
Thanks for the tips.
Can you get the wheel rolling fast enough to start it in 2nd or 3rd gear?
I will be able to when I upsize the wire to handle the current. I'm going to finish it this winter after riding season.
Bigger cables and a real cable mount would help a lot.
Thanks. I'm going to make things more electrically sound over the winter.
I'm doing the same thing right now. How did you attach the rollers to the rod? I used some of the larger rollers and screwed the sprocket directly into the rubber, but the screws pulled out under load. I got some of the smaller rollers like those, but I can't tell in the video, how you have them attached to the sprockets. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
I'll second d this request. How were the bolts done so they didn't rip clean out?
We drilled 4 holes through the rollers and put threaded rod through them. Added a large washer with 4 holes drilled and put nuts on both ends, washers were welded to the shaft as well as the sprocket. Hope this helps 😁
Thanks. So you ran the roof completely through the roller... Good to know.
t will definitely keep it from slipping.
@@mr_sinister it will definitely keep it from slipping.
The one guy said he used a high torque starter motor. Like you design though, should work just fine
I'm getting some bigger cables and a solenoid with a foot switch. A little winter project to finish.
Can you tell me where you got the rollers please
They are from Princess Auto that were modified to the shafts.
Jumper cables are too small, creating too high a resistance.
Thanks for the info 👍