Hi, i raced 5VYs here in Scotland and Australia. They run averagely hot its because the temp reading over-reads by about 8-10deg and this is easily proven by the sensor we put in the thremostat housing (thermostat removed on race bike) The bike tricks you into thinking it is hotter than it is because of the hear from the exhaust headers while the exup is shut. Bikes with exup removed dont feel as hot when slow riding or stopped in traffic but still feel warm comapred to any non- underseat can bike. They will let you know when they are too hot by bypassing some coolant out the hose down at the kick stand or blowing about 250cl into your overflow tank and likely making it dirty. On the race bikes we took the expansion off and ran the hose for it out the side of the bike. The actual block itself doesnt even get that hot on these if you thermal sight it its a lot cooler than modern 1000cc They will tick like crazy from the hollow camshafts to let you know too and they will take loads of overheatings without warping heads or blowing gaskets unlike newer 1000cc's All the newer 1000cc bar Yamaha and Suzuki lumps are 30k mile junk trust me i know, i need to race and fix my own and weve been doing it since the R6 cup days back in early 2000s
Modern sportsbikes run on very high compression ratio. When catalyst converters came due to environment policies, after 2002/2003 (in Europe) the heat temperature on exhaust raised even more. On sportsbikes with mufflers under the seat, even knowing they’re insulated, driver feels more the heat. Engines are prepared for such high temperatures, just use a good oil with adequate viscosity, change it every 6.000 miles at least, and check refrigeration fluid level and condition. By doing that “bypass”, you’ll end up with two seized radiator electric fans and an overstressed battery and alternatir, that solution has no real advantages for the engine.
No interstates where i am. Alot of redlights and 45mph speeds. Small town. Id much rather replace battery and fans anyday than be miserable. And i did this lretty quick after i got it it was so damn hot
eventually those lil engines will completely burn out. eventually the constant pull from those fans will overheat your regulators and so forth but this is a great idea if wired with switch and inline fuse.
Everybody hates on this but this is a life saver. Yes its 7 years later and it still works a1. When i pull off the freeway the bike is at 165 ish. And then at a redlight or 2 it will get up to 175 but it stays rrally cool. Theres an ignition wire on the right side under gas tank. Just run a really nice heavy wire to both fans. Or you could do a switch. I just unplug it for winter season
My ‘99 runs hot as well, dumped old coolant when I bought it, flushed the radiator, new thermostat, new temp sender switch, radiator cap, added new coolant and ran a fused jumper from the temp sender switch just so I don’t have a wiring issue later letting the fan turn on as soon as my key is turned on. Still has the audacity to overheat on me when sitting at a light or in heavy traffic. Outside of being at a stop or in traffic she stays at about 167-169 degrees Fahrenheit while in motion. 🤦🏻♂️
you dont want that. These are hollow camshaft engines they want kept at the temp set even in racing you ONLY remove the thermostat nothing else. Hollow camshaft lumps especially ones with this level of head (20v genesis2) likes to be hot if its not spinning fast and ideally likes to be inside a hot head untill its cooling itself from the inside spinning fast, the bikes cooling is set up for hollow and titanium components that require it to stage heat its how they work best. Messing with running the bike too cold at the wrong engine speed is bad for it as you know doubt know but you need to amplify that when it comes to hollowed out cam 5v-Per hole heads and exotic material all over the place. At least 80% of those claiming this era R1 runs too hot are the same ones that never realised full on exhaust powevalved underseat can bikes feel really hot when riding slow inna hot day especially. Ive had at least 5 owners ask me to take a shot even after i looked over the bike to verify they were paranoid and every one of them was the same as any other 5VY the temp massively overreads and they are really hot to sit on or be near on a hot day. Not one ever blew up they are all still going strong unlike BMW or Ducati junk that 30k miles max per engine
My 05 be hot as hell too on the ride side especially. I tried changing the side tank covers to carbon fiber but minimal difference. Only thing about running the fans full time is in cooler weather the bike wont get to an optimal temperature 185-200degs. Although adding a on/off switch by the instrument cluster might work. Also thought about getting bigger fans or more efficient fans. Being lots has changed with fans over the past 19 years. There might be away to change the parameters to cut the fans on sooner or add a resister to the relay?
CBR are bottom endy as it gets. Coils packs every 2yr and then the bottom end goes quick if you race them. Not even second most reliable now they are 4th or 5th
@@bostongeorge1000 bro your good you know how that goes haters have nothing else to do but be mad 🤣🤣 my bike was running super hot if I didn’t see this video I would have just been buying parts good shit bro Keep up the good videos💯🦾
@@Dave-sl9dglol I have it rewatch it again a few times cus I’m hi af bro ! But if I’m not mistaken are we trying to hard wire the little fan to straight plug ? So that it’s on as Soon as it turns on the bike or we switch it on??
Shawn Brown Yeah as long as it works for you but the switch for me was just another headache I didn't wanna worry about not being able to hit it or leave it online or whatever so
This is the most stupidiest thing ever to do to the cooling system....who taugh you this nonsense mate??bypassing the heat switch and let the fans run nonstop....poor bike...just replace the heat switch with another from a car or an older R1...2002 model 1999 model..that starts the fans at 102 degrees celsius...sell your bike man to someone who cares about it...
ciogon appatently you have no idea what you are talking about or yamaha in this year range. they run from 200-240 normal. even with the fan running nonstop it still gets 180-190 which is normal. so the bike is fine. yamaha fucked uo these bikes these years not me. i ride suzuki and this is why. yamahas are peices of shit.
my friend...im a motorcycle mechanic...you are nonsense talking...mounting a cooling switch that goes on way early than the stock one..that is the solution...running hot is also a maping issue..if you remap your injection system you might also make your engine run cooler...yamaha is good...every motorcycle or machine in this world ,has issues..because its made by humans...
ciogon you are correct. thia was a quick fix to a very very bad problem hitting 237 and 241. some intemse wiring and relay was to much for me to do. ive long sold this bike anyhow. i wont own biles that are so ill designed. id pick another brand or year. i get what you mean about making the fan come on early. bu i travel for a living so like i said super fast super easy fix. and it made it run at the correct temps. i installed new water pump and even cool thermostat nothing would help. as bad as this may seem to you it was a dream for me while i owned it
I added switch from radiator temperature sensor for city driving. I also managed to boil engine oil on a couple occasions by going hard on autobahn for prolonged time, shifter started to stick. I own Yamaha R1 (couple months ago replaced engine block), I have owned Kawasaki Ninja. Although Ninja had less power it was problem free. I will kill or trade in R1 and I am NEVER going to buy another Yamaha. This bike offers substantial power, but engine won't keep up for prolonged time. Buy Kawasaki, tried and true.
utter drivel. 4 decade bike mechanic and i race the things i raced in R6 cup ffs😂 Yamaha are by far the most reliable followed by Suzuki engines. Kawasaki and Honda are 3rd and 4th nowhere near as well made as Yamaha and i mean ANY part of the bike. Granted they are all far more reliable than junk BMW and VAG Ducati, KTM and Aprilia but Yamaha are factually better made than Kawasaki across the range pal. The reliability charts dont lie and Yamaha are top by a distance. Cheers
What a wiring mess. Cut a slit in the wire and jumped it ? All that electrical tape and future corrosion is a bad idea. Fans are not designed to run constant. Hopefully no one out there did this back yard wiring nightmare.
Bikes veen fine bow for like 7 years. Everybody was like u gona, burn it up and all that jazz. Not a single thing has ahopened to this bike but tires and chains. And cooler temps. Literally nothing has ever went wrong.
@@bostongeorge1000mate you feeling the heat from the headers coz the exup near shut at the speeds you are doing? You sure your not torching that head with bent flanges and bolts on the headers? All underseat bikes with a 4-1-2 system run well hot sitting on them and Yams temp reading on the dash is about 8-10deg hotter than what other bikes would say due to where the measurement is taken. I raced 5vy and had to mod and fix mine myself back in the day. I still have one and still like looking at it and riding it the odd time and seing what mods people have made over time. Can i just ask a few things? - Is the engine farting coolant into the overflow now and again and if so is the temp warning light on when it does? -Your Rad cap is defo working at the right pressure and you haven't installed the thermostat the wrong way or with the breather hole at the bottom or not near the 12 o'clock position? -none of your hoses are getting sucked in or losing shape? especially the short thicker hose at the front in the middle going from waterpump Pipe1 to the block thats directly behind the header manifold? -is your 'Pipe 2' from the side of the waterpump leaking at all on the outer seal or is the thinner hose coming down from the T-piece that runs down the side of the Generator casing leaking at all or lost its strength down at the small inlet on 'pipe 2'? -Have you checked the radiator doesnt have chrystals from older coolants or sediment at the bottom of the core (stick a borescope right down in there and look to side at the bottom to see if its all blocked down there? -finaly you sure none of the undertank hoses lost their shape or getting pinched when you lower the tank? If all that checks out brother then you jusy paranoid and not used to the heat this sort of exhaust + exup + Hot running hollow cam 20v head.
@@bostongeorge1000If your still running your exup check that its at the perfect spot. Take it apart and double check the things working fine and that the Cable wheel is fitted to the D shaped cam and tightened with the cables slack or off so it tightens them together at the right angle so there is the correct gap in the exup when its idling or running really slow in traffic when lugging it. An exup fitted wrong or not working to the point its nearly fully shutting while running will cause the manifold to get way way hotter and your exhaust port area and the entire radiator area in general mate. Exups usually jam open or fail then get blown open but if you have a scenario where the valves near enough fully shutting while the engine is running at low rpm lugging about then you are basically loading the entire engine up and header heat trapping is going to make it get hotter real fast. One bent valve can cause overheating issues too but i dont beleive thats your issue at all and can easily be checked with clearance check
@@bostongeorge1000 see you wont always catch a bent valve on comp checks. Might be 2-3psi down but if clearance checked or physically pulled a checked you find a bend
I own dynoworx Scotland raced pro in R6 cup back when i was 18yr old before joined the military and have raced for the military MX team and my own team i set up when i came out. We had six 5vy bikes in total and kept one they are one of the best racebikes i ever rode but defo need the rear suspension properly sprung to rider weight and heavily progressive sprung Front fork internalls if your not converted to race forks. Personally they front forks i could get them to do anything i liked just changing spring and usual cart changes and picking the fork oil wisely. These things were jusy so F-ing fast lapping in the right hands that you wouldnt believe.
R1 and Gixxer1 last the longest of any sportsbike the R1 underseat models run hot but are ironically factually the most reliable of them all. 5VY going of reliability charts based on warranty and out of warranty dealer fixes is amoungst the most reliable motorcycles ever made its like top 3 mate 😂
charles letson my bike runs very hot... I did this what's in the video and it still runs hot and it will not go pass 10mph.. I think that might have something to do with the clutches though
Terry Thomas I'll be more than happy to help if you want to contact me directly but the thermostat will have nothing to do with the ten mile an hour thing
Christopher Villalobos email me achromegsxr@gmail.com I thought the video showed exactly where the jumper is there's three wires that run from the ignition to the left side of the motorcycle about where your knee would be the brown wire is the ignition wire you just run and ignition wire jumper to the electric fans so when you flip the key on both the fans come on
Hey love the video, I'm also having the same problem with my 06 r1. So I get that you run the jumper wire from the ignition brown wire to the fan but what colour fan wire the blue black or both?
It is. Reason being, you use speaker wire cheap disposable to get the problem sorted out, then run your more expensive wire and crimps or what have you. Cost effectiveness. I just didnt make additional videos to follow up.
Charles Riso yea but way better for engine. Everyone hates this. But the r1 loves it. Its not that bad for it really. Unless you leave the key on for long times. Nothing more than listening. To a car radio with the car not running
I suggest You To put an On/off button To the fan, and buy a lithium battery... Then You just wait it heat a little when start and charge the battery, then You turn on the fan.
Charles Riso been like thissincethis video. stillhasnt missed a lick. even if in a year or so It decides to act up I'm still bought the engine precious lifespan because of the reduced heat
Hi, i raced 5VYs here in Scotland and Australia. They run averagely hot its because the temp reading over-reads by about 8-10deg and this is easily proven by the sensor we put in the thremostat housing (thermostat removed on race bike) The bike tricks you into thinking it is hotter than it is because of the hear from the exhaust headers while the exup is shut. Bikes with exup removed dont feel as hot when slow riding or stopped in traffic but still feel warm comapred to any non- underseat can bike. They will let you know when they are too hot by bypassing some coolant out the hose down at the kick stand or blowing about 250cl into your overflow tank and likely making it dirty. On the race bikes we took the expansion off and ran the hose for it out the side of the bike. The actual block itself doesnt even get that hot on these if you thermal sight it its a lot cooler than modern 1000cc They will tick like crazy from the hollow camshafts to let you know too and they will take loads of overheatings without warping heads or blowing gaskets unlike newer 1000cc's All the newer 1000cc bar Yamaha and Suzuki lumps are 30k mile junk trust me i know, i need to race and fix my own and weve been doing it since the R6 cup days back in early 2000s
Can you look me up on facebook ar can i liok you up id like some more info on thism i am rebuilding it again
Modern sportsbikes run on very high compression ratio. When catalyst converters came due to environment policies, after 2002/2003 (in Europe) the heat temperature on exhaust raised even more. On sportsbikes with mufflers under the seat, even knowing they’re insulated, driver feels more the heat. Engines are prepared for such high temperatures, just use a good oil with adequate viscosity, change it every 6.000 miles at least, and check refrigeration fluid level and condition. By doing that “bypass”, you’ll end up with two seized radiator electric fans and an overstressed battery and alternatir, that solution has no real advantages for the engine.
No interstates where i am. Alot of redlights and 45mph speeds. Small town. Id much rather replace battery and fans anyday than be miserable. And i did this lretty quick after i got it it was so damn hot
eventually those lil engines will completely burn out.
eventually the constant pull from those fans will overheat your regulators and so forth but this is a great idea if wired with switch and inline fuse.
Rather burn fans and battery than be miserable. We dont have alot of speed places here small town
Is the bone still running good with this? Have you had battery problems? My 03 R1 runs hot as hell and I’ve been searching for cooling solutions
Everybody hates on this but this is a life saver. Yes its 7 years later and it still works a1. When i pull off the freeway the bike is at 165 ish. And then at a redlight or 2 it will get up to 175 but it stays rrally cool. Theres an ignition wire on the right side under gas tank. Just run a really nice heavy wire to both fans. Or you could do a switch. I just unplug it for winter season
My ‘99 runs hot as well, dumped old coolant when I bought it, flushed the radiator, new thermostat, new temp sender switch, radiator cap, added new coolant and ran a fused jumper from the temp sender switch just so I don’t have a wiring issue later letting the fan turn on as soon as my key is turned on. Still has the audacity to overheat on me when sitting at a light or in heavy traffic. Outside of being at a stop or in traffic she stays at about 167-169 degrees Fahrenheit while in motion. 🤦🏻♂️
What do you mean fused jumper. Im redoing this bike again and would like more info
If you get a ECU flash they can have the fans turn on at 190 degrees.
you dont want that. These are hollow camshaft engines they want kept at the temp set even in racing you ONLY remove the thermostat nothing else. Hollow camshaft lumps especially ones with this level of head (20v genesis2) likes to be hot if its not spinning fast and ideally likes to be inside a hot head untill its cooling itself from the inside spinning fast, the bikes cooling is set up for hollow and titanium components that require it to stage heat its how they work best. Messing with running the bike too cold at the wrong engine speed is bad for it as you know doubt know but you need to amplify that when it comes to hollowed out cam 5v-Per hole heads and exotic material all over the place. At least 80% of those claiming this era R1 runs too hot are the same ones that never realised full on exhaust powevalved underseat can bikes feel really hot when riding slow inna hot day especially. Ive had at least 5 owners ask me to take a shot even after i looked over the bike to verify they were paranoid and every one of them was the same as any other 5VY the temp massively overreads and they are really hot to sit on or be near on a hot day. Not one ever blew up they are all still going strong unlike BMW or Ducati junk that 30k miles max per engine
@bigduphusaj162 interesting
My 05 be hot as hell too on the ride side especially. I tried changing the side tank covers to carbon fiber but minimal difference. Only thing about running the fans full time is in cooler weather the bike wont get to an optimal temperature 185-200degs.
Although adding a on/off switch by the instrument cluster might work. Also thought about getting bigger fans or more efficient fans. Being lots has changed with fans over the past 19 years.
There might be away to change the parameters to cut the fans on sooner or add a resister to the relay?
@Totes_ma_Goat I normally dont ride a whole lot in winter. Ive got some mopeds i use for winter. But i was just going to unplug or ad a little switch
My 02 has just 1 fan and it comes on at 215...crazy hot bikes!. Makes me miss my CBR :(
CBR are bottom endy as it gets. Coils packs every 2yr and then the bottom end goes quick if you race them. Not even second most reliable now they are 4th or 5th
The new design R1 runs a lot cooler but still CBR is the best in this department
we’re not asking
What do you mean cbr is the best in this department
Thanks bro this just helped me for my 2003 R1 I appreciate the video good shit 💯🦾
Glad man. People Hate on this method but it dropped my temp by 20 degrees fuk them
@@bostongeorge1000 bro your good you know how that goes haters have nothing else to do but be mad 🤣🤣 my bike was running super hot if I didn’t see this video I would have just been buying parts good shit bro Keep up the good videos💯🦾
Areyoh still running bike like this?
@@bostongeorge1000 yes bro I’m
@@Dave-sl9dglol I have it rewatch it again a few times cus I’m hi af bro ! But if I’m not mistaken are we trying to hard wire the little fan to straight plug ? So that it’s on as Soon as it turns on the bike or we switch it on??
I installed a off on switch when I'm at a red light or it gets over around 185 I turn it on
Shawn Brown Yeah as long as it works for you but the switch for me was just another headache I didn't wanna worry about not being able to hit it or leave it online or whatever so
charles letson my switch just burned up so I'm going to do it direct is it just the 2 grounds on the relay and the fan I'm connecting
This is the most stupidiest thing ever to do to the cooling system....who taugh you this nonsense mate??bypassing the heat switch and let the fans run nonstop....poor bike...just replace the heat switch with another from a car or an older R1...2002 model 1999 model..that starts the fans at 102 degrees celsius...sell your bike man to someone who cares about it...
ciogon appatently you have no idea what you are talking about or yamaha in this year range. they run from 200-240 normal. even with the fan running nonstop it still gets 180-190 which is normal. so the bike is fine. yamaha fucked uo these bikes these years not me. i ride suzuki and this is why. yamahas are peices of shit.
my friend...im a motorcycle mechanic...you are nonsense talking...mounting a cooling switch that goes on way early than the stock one..that is the solution...running hot is also a maping issue..if you remap your injection system you might also make your engine run cooler...yamaha is good...every motorcycle or machine in this world ,has issues..because its made by humans...
ciogon you are correct. thia was a quick fix to a very very bad problem hitting 237 and 241. some intemse wiring and relay was to much for me to do. ive long sold this bike anyhow. i wont own biles that are so ill designed. id pick another brand or year. i get what you mean about making the fan come on early. bu i travel for a living so like i said super fast super easy fix. and it made it run at the correct temps. i installed new water pump and even cool thermostat nothing would help. as bad as this may seem to you it was a dream for me while i owned it
I added switch from radiator temperature sensor for city driving. I also managed to boil engine oil on a couple occasions by going hard on autobahn for prolonged time, shifter started to stick. I own Yamaha R1 (couple months ago replaced engine block), I have owned Kawasaki Ninja. Although Ninja had less power it was problem free. I will kill or trade in R1 and I am NEVER going to buy another Yamaha. This bike offers substantial power, but engine won't keep up for prolonged time. Buy Kawasaki, tried and true.
utter drivel. 4 decade bike mechanic and i race the things i raced in R6 cup ffs😂 Yamaha are by far the most reliable followed by Suzuki engines. Kawasaki and Honda are 3rd and 4th nowhere near as well made as Yamaha and i mean ANY part of the bike. Granted they are all far more reliable than junk BMW and VAG Ducati, KTM and Aprilia but Yamaha are factually better made than Kawasaki across the range pal. The reliability charts dont lie and Yamaha are top by a distance. Cheers
What a wiring mess. Cut a slit in the wire and jumped it ? All that electrical tape and future corrosion is a bad idea. Fans are not designed to run constant. Hopefully no one out there did this back yard wiring nightmare.
Bikes veen fine bow for like 7 years. Everybody was like u gona, burn it up and all that jazz. Not a single thing has ahopened to this bike but tires and chains. And cooler temps. Literally nothing has ever went wrong.
Or you check that your thermostat is opening as it should.
All yamahas run like that ... but having fans on all the time... sounds like something else is problem...
They just run to hot for me. And id rather runa. Fn that overheat a motor. Plus its miserable riding a hotbike. Its wayyyyyy cooler this way
@@bostongeorge1000mate you feeling the heat from the headers coz the exup near shut at the speeds you are doing? You sure your not torching that head with bent flanges and bolts on the headers? All underseat bikes with a 4-1-2 system run well hot sitting on them and Yams temp reading on the dash is about 8-10deg hotter than what other bikes would say due to where the measurement is taken. I raced 5vy and had to mod and fix mine myself back in the day. I still have one and still like looking at it and riding it the odd time and seing what mods people have made over time. Can i just ask a few things?
- Is the engine farting coolant into the overflow now and again and if so is the temp warning light on when it does?
-Your Rad cap is defo working at the right pressure and you haven't installed the thermostat the wrong way or with the breather hole at the bottom or not near the 12 o'clock position?
-none of your hoses are getting sucked in or losing shape? especially the short thicker hose at the front in the middle going from waterpump Pipe1 to the block thats directly behind the header manifold?
-is your 'Pipe 2' from the side of the waterpump leaking at all on the outer seal or is the thinner hose coming down from the T-piece that runs down the side of the Generator casing leaking at all or lost its strength down at the small inlet on 'pipe 2'?
-Have you checked the radiator doesnt have chrystals from older coolants or sediment at the bottom of the core (stick a borescope right down in there and look to side at the bottom to see if its all blocked down there?
-finaly you sure none of the undertank hoses lost their shape or getting pinched when you lower the tank?
If all that checks out brother then you jusy paranoid and not used to the heat this sort of exhaust + exup + Hot running hollow cam 20v head.
@@bostongeorge1000If your still running your exup check that its at the perfect spot. Take it apart and double check the things working fine and that the Cable wheel is fitted to the D shaped cam and tightened with the cables slack or off so it tightens them together at the right angle so there is the correct gap in the exup when its idling or running really slow in traffic when lugging it. An exup fitted wrong or not working to the point its nearly fully shutting while running will cause the manifold to get way way hotter and your exhaust port area and the entire radiator area in general mate. Exups usually jam open or fail then get blown open but if you have a scenario where the valves near enough fully shutting while the engine is running at low rpm lugging about then you are basically loading the entire engine up and header heat trapping is going to make it get hotter real fast. One bent valve can cause overheating issues too but i dont beleive thats your issue at all and can easily be checked with clearance check
@@bostongeorge1000 see you wont always catch a bent valve on comp checks. Might be 2-3psi down but if clearance checked or physically pulled a checked you find a bend
I own dynoworx Scotland raced pro in R6 cup back when i was 18yr old before joined the military and have raced for the military MX team and my own team i set up when i came out. We had six 5vy bikes in total and kept one they are one of the best racebikes i ever rode but defo need the rear suspension properly sprung to rider weight and heavily progressive sprung Front fork internalls if your not converted to race forks. Personally they front forks i could get them to do anything i liked just changing spring and usual cart changes and picking the fork oil wisely. These things were jusy so F-ing fast lapping in the right hands that you wouldnt believe.
Hey what kind of exhaust/Tips you have on the bike???
They have a small bafflein them. I beleive they may havr gone on a car. Like from oriellys bit it sounds awesome
Redoing exhaust now if you wanna contact me
I had a gsxr for ten years. So i have decided to go to yamaha r1. 2014. But good the bike really sucks and heat all the time
They are notorious for running hot
R1 and Gixxer1 last the longest of any sportsbike the R1 underseat models run hot but are ironically factually the most reliable of them all. 5VY going of reliability charts based on warranty and out of warranty dealer fixes is amoungst the most reliable motorcycles ever made its like top 3 mate 😂
Is it just for the ground wire
will this bypass the thermostat?
Terry Thomas na it still gets up to 170-180 so the bike still runs at operating temp.
charles letson you have any idea to bypass the thermostat?
Terry Thomas take it out. but why?
charles letson my bike runs very hot... I did this what's in the video and it still runs hot and it will not go pass 10mph.. I think that might have something to do with the clutches though
Terry Thomas I'll be more than happy to help if you want to contact me directly but the thermostat will have nothing to do with the ten mile an hour thing
My 04 r1 never goes above 226° it's stay around 188° to 220°
Redone all this cooling system. New pump and coolant. It still wanted to runn20 degrees gotter than it should
Hey can you show me how you did the jumpers? I need to fix my overheating r1
Christopher Villalobos email me achromegsxr@gmail.com
I thought the video showed exactly where the jumper is there's three wires that run from the ignition to the left side of the motorcycle about where your knee would be the brown wire is the ignition wire you just run and ignition wire jumper to the electric fans so when you flip the key on both the fans come on
charles letson watch your video over and over all last night and I got it. it works perfect now. thanks bro 👍👍
Christopher Villalobos just let me know man. i fell in love with the bike when i got it to run 😎
@@christophervillalobos9778 Its been over 2 years since your comment. How is/did it hold up?
Hey love the video, I'm also having the same problem with my 06 r1. So I get that you run the jumper wire from the ignition brown wire to the fan but what colour fan wire the blue black or both?
Is that a speaker wire?
It is. Reason being, you use speaker wire cheap disposable to get the problem sorted out, then run your more expensive wire and crimps or what have you. Cost effectiveness. I just didnt make additional videos to follow up.
NOT GOOD FOR THE BATTERY OR REG/REC.
Charles Riso yea but way better for engine. Everyone hates this. But the r1 loves it. Its not that bad for it really. Unless you leave the key on for long times. Nothing more than listening. To a car radio with the car not running
I suggest You To put an On/off button To the fan, and buy a lithium battery... Then You just wait it heat a little when start and charge the battery, then You turn on the fan.
Charles Riso been like thissincethis video. stillhasnt missed a lick. even if in a year or so It decides to act up I'm still bought the engine precious lifespan because of the reduced heat