Replace Power Window Regulator on 1999 Toyota Sienna
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- The power window broke on our 1999 Sienna minivan. Here is how I debugged and fixed it. Had to remove the door panel, figure out whether the problem was the switch or the motor, then remove and replace the entire regulator assembly.
I believe that Siennas from 1998 to 2003 all have the same door, but no guarantees.
Mr. Young, I wish I could drive to your house--with the window down on my '99 Sienna--and shake your hand. Your instructions here were spot on. I got the job done in an hour or so and it would have taken much longer and been terribly frustrating without your useful video. Thank you sir!. This has been the most helpful how-to video I have used!
Kent Snoeyink Glad to help. Other people's videos saved me hours of trouble, so it does my heart good to return the favor. You can call me Rod or Roderick, by the way.
Thanks Roderick. Would like to add Ive repaired both door window motors.(98Sienna). Driver side 3 years ago and passenger side today. I actually fixed the motors for cheap,,,a dab of solder,,pennies. Open the motor and find what I call the "WAFER Component" which is what causes the motor to lose power especially going up. It is about 3/4" long and 1/16" thin. It has 3 layers, 2 conductive plates and the magical electronic layer is sandwiched between them. I did not yet find out its purpose. The FIX is to jumper out this "WC",and the motor will do all its suppose to do without it. The first motor I used a small wire to jumper out the WC using solder on each end, which took a little patience. An easier way is to melt a dab of solder at one end of the WC(left side with WC above commutator) making sure the solder connects the top conductive plate to the bottom plate. It makes it easier to remove the armature and brushes and give everything a good cleaning especially where the solder will be placed, with an electrical cleaning solvent.I used 260watt soldering gun with the flat tip which allows you to get into the tight spot. Replace grease that would have been removed by cleaner and reassemble. Brush tension springs should only be engaged after armature is in place and cover is almost closed. I had to replace the brushes on the 1st motor job and had to sand the new brushes down to size, as I couldnt find the exact size locally. I wish I had done a video. Any questions email me and Id be happy to help. (rudy.poirier@bellaliant.net) Thank You Roderick, as I used Your vid to review for my assembly process.
+Rudy Poirier Sorry for the late reply. For some reason, youtube thought your comment was spam (maybe the email address?) Congratulations! You have solved what we called a "class issue" at work - provided a workaround for something that is a widespread syndrome. People are paid very highly to do this sort of thing. Wish you had posted a video on it - if I had seen it, I would have tried to fix the motor. But I threw it away. :(
+Rudy Poirier Now that I see +Ron Ablang 's post above, I have a theory. Maybe that WC is a component that somehow limits the current or causes the motor to stop when the AUTO DOWN is pressed. It could be that with time, that current limiter wears out, and mistakenly starts to think that the motor has reached the end of the run and is stalling, when in reality the window is only halfway up?
Roderick Young,Yes,that was my theory also,,,"current limiter",,,,BUT with it jumpered out the power is still being cut to motor at top and bottom of travel. Maybe the motor manufacturer call it the JSW,,,"job security wafer". Hahahah Thanks Again Roderick!
Great video, good instructions at each step, including how to swap the wires as the part I got was similar to yours and not an original part, works great though. I noticed the original part, one of the tracks is plastic, and seemed to be wearing out and not sliding very well. The new tracks are all metal and look like they might last even longer than the original. Glad to see other people keeping these vans going for a long as they are built to last with proper maintenance. All the best!
I just replaced my 2000 Sienna power window regulator thanks to your video and the other TH-cam video by PsychOtto. Both videos are so helpful! I just want to further add that the bolt you mentioned at 8:28 to 8:39 was probably never meant to be taken completely out. You can see in the video that the panel hole for that bolt is much larger and has a little notch on it that seems like it was meant for the bolt to “hang” from. So you should just loosen that bolt, not unscrew it completely. Later when you put the entire assembly back in the first thing you do is use that bolt as a reference to hang it back in place to make it easier for the remaining assembly. There are a total of 6 bolts holding the regulator to the panel. After you take the whole assembly out it can be confusing (as to which hole goes with which hole) when you put the assembly back in because of the moving, pivoting, swiveling lattice like structure, especially if you decide not to re-use the old assembly. Without that “reference bolt” you could easily get lost not remembering or knowing which of the 6 screw holes in the regulator goes with its corresponding bolt hole in the metal panel. If you’re re-using the old regulator then it’s not a problem but having a reference bolt will still make it much easier to reassemble.
Also, if you’re putting in a new or non-OEM regulator the remaining 5 holes most probably won’t line up - at least that’s what happened to me. So I screwed in the two window bolts, tighten the “reference bolt”, and move the window little by little until the other 5 bolt
holes line up with the body panel holes.
Also glad you pointed out the polarity switch on the window up/down button. I had the same problem and might not have known what to do; I ended up just cutting the wires and splicing them.
Exceptional video! I have this exact issue and was nervous about trying to get inside the door. Tried a new switch and no luck. Just ordered the motor and will give it a go soon!
Thanks Rodney. Excellent video; I used it yesterday on '98 Sienna. I especially appreciated that you took the part off to see how it went, then put it back on to show us how it comes off in an efficient and clear way. I did this job 8 months ago installing a junkyard regulator with motor. That motor gave out now and I used the former one to replace it. That one bolt that looks like you should be able to slip through the larger hole...I took it as a challenge and was able to not remove bolt all the way. It helps a lot with the install. Thanks for excellent work.
I have no idea whether I was doing it the best way or not. There are undoubtedly better ways to do parts of this job. Thanks for the comment!
Thanks so much for posting. I have the exact same issue and your straight forward explanation was perfect. Your comments about worrying about breaking the pins in certain places, when to muscle and when not to were the exact concerns I had. Thank you again.
Glad it worked out for you. The best part of TH-cam is helping others to not repeat my mistakes. If you have a Sienna of this vintage, it would also be worth checking the steering linkage. There is a rubber bushing that wears out over time.
Roderick Young. ha, yeah. This past year I've been losing power steering fluid at an increasingly faster pace.
Dude that was a great video and actually really enjoyable to watch as far as a repair video goes I love the way you narrated it. The only problem I have is you didn't show how you got the assembly out of the door and how you put the assembly back in the door. I know it's probably self-explanatory but that would be one of those big things that I think you should have showed. Otherwise I'll absolutely love the video it was very helpful
Yeah, I probably should have showed that. When you take the bolts off, it does come right out without any funny maneuvering. Hopefully, there are other videos out there that show that part if anyone is in doubt. Thanks for your comment!
Thank you very much Robert I really appreciate your video. I was able to install my motor assembly within about an hour and a half including removing the door panel and putting it back on. It's all because of your video. Thank you thank you thank you. I have a 1998 Sienna.
Did it with a $10.58 assembly. Good thing I get amazon prime to mail it to Hilo. Went smooth except when done was still sluggish. So I lubricated the tracts. Did good. I now wonder if I prematurely replaced it. Well it was good experience. Your instructions were accurate. I even needed help to align the window properly for the ten mm bolts to align up. Hard to do without help. The one that was hard to loosen had blue loctite. I put that one on loosely before putting assembly back it the door. Aided as a starting point.
+Henry Gee With the alternate rain, heat, and salt spray, I'm surprised that a Sienna lasted 15 years in Hilo (I'm from Honolulu originally). Here in N California, it's super dry, so it wasn't a corrosion issue, I actually had a bad motor. Maybe yours was weak, too - it is a known issue with that model year. And besides, at $10.58, you can't go wrong.
Thank you my friend. All other videos that came up were for newer years while saying 98. Video helped a lot much appreciated
Hopefully the 99 year was similarto 98? I'm happy for whatever clues I might have provided.
Mr. Young thank you for this video. I was able to fix my 99 sienna sliding window issue for $37 with your help. Your instructions are excellent and without any auto repair experience I was able to replace it. Thank you again and I appreciate it.
Prasanna Edpuganti Good job! Congratulations on your successful repair. I'm not really an auto repair guy, myself, but firmly believe that ordinary people can do just about anything with the help of the internet. On occasion, when I think that something could be made clearer, I add my video to the vast store of knowledge out on the net.
Just tremendous, Roderick. Your excellent video gave me confidence I might be able to do this--and I just did. And it works ! If I got lost, just replay and pause. Set the laptop up in the garage and step by step "got ur done". (4 hours ). Like that you assumed we had some mechanical knowledge, and didn't baby us along and drag it out. Good troubleshooting - mine didn't have to be reversed- as got it off Ebay too. I've never posted a video, and really haven't ever made a comment either, or even a "like", but I could not not "Thank You" for helping me. Gary in SoCal.
+oyosemite No problem, glad it helped you. Maybe they just randomly wire those Chinese eBay motors, and we have a 50-50 chance of getting one that's right?
Thank you so much for this video. It was instrumental in removing a door panel to replace a side passenger mirror. We'd buy you a beer if you lived closer
Glad it helped! Your comment is worth more to me than any beer.
Thank you for taking the time to make and post the video. This helped me install a new motor and avoided damage to the trim on the door. The video made the job go quickly and easily. And I enjoyed your glass on, glass off comment at the end Mr. Miyagi! Again Thank You!
zonker72 You're welcome, glad to have saved you a little trouble.
Excellent details on motor replacement. Thorough and well narrated video. I needed this. THANKS !
Hope your replacement goes well, if you haven't already completed it.
Thank you going through so many details like which way a clip goes! Exactly what a dummie like me needs... Many thanks! Terrific video.
Hey, no problem. But no need to be modest, the fact that you are fixing your own car proves you have skill.
Roderick - Thanks so much for the detailed video. I watched your video and then installed one of those $40 something Amazon window motors in my 98 Toyota sienna. It went very smoothly thanks to your video. Now my window works again like new! Thanks again!!!
Pro tip: completely remove glass, it slides ride out after angling sideways. Goes back in just as easy.
Simple put the frame where you can access the window hold down bolts to remove, put back in same place and lower glass back in, piece of cake.
Thanks. Had the same problem. After watching your video had it fixed in about an hour.
+jonnymag74 Wow, that's fast!
This was really helpful. I just replaced the regulator/motor on our 2000 Sienna, thanks to this video. One thing that's missing: after removing all the bolts for the old part, the motor's electrical cords need to be disconnected before removing the old regulator.
Good point, Kooper. At time 8:15 or so in the video, that white plastic connector with red and blue wires should be unplugged before taking the 8 bolts out.
Thank you very VERY MUCH
You're SO welcome!
Thank you for the great video with everything you teaching from A to Z save time and $$$👍🙏
Thank you for this video!! I wasnt sure if it was the switch or the motor. so Jumped it with wire as you did, and up goes the window.....fer sure the switch!!
+Paranormal Central Lucky you! The switch is cheaper, and you won't have to take off all that junk to replace it.
Thanks! Your video made this a quick and easy project. It is really appreciated that you took the time to make and post this video.
Excellent information. Thanks for being so thorough!
Great video. Very simple and fine instruction. The driver window of my O2 still goes up and down, but it's a little slower these days. So I'm going to try the lubrication thing first.
Hopefully that will help take a little strain off the motor so it does not give up the ghost any sooner than has to
Mine was doing the same thing. Eventually, it only went partway up, then ground to a halt. I'd let it cool down a few seconds, then it would go all the way up on a retry. There was some rumor that there was a thermal resistor or something to prevent overheat, which could be bypassed. Look for other TH-cam videos on the matter. That might save you the cost of a new motor.
@@roderickyoung1243 Thanks for the info. 👍. I will do that.
Great vid. As soon as I find the parts I'll be doing this repair. This helps a lot. Especially finding those two hidden screws under the arm rest.
Very good detail,thanks! Just did this..
Thanks for the safety notice about the gloves, I wouldn't have thought about that!
You're welcome! I didn't think of it, either, and got pinched the first time...
Very helpful! I just replaced mine. Took me about 2 1/2 hours. I would be a lot faster if I had to do it again! My switch panel is now permanently a little looser now, so be careful when you are prying that one loose. I would emphasize that it was essential for me to connect the new regulator and adjust it to match up exactly with the same orientation as the one removed. It just seems like a suggestion in the video, but it's more of a necessity.
Well said, thanks for the tips.
Thanks for doing this video. Had the exact same problem with my 99 sienna and you helped me fix it!
It's my genuine pleasure. Heaven knows how many times I benefited from someone else posting their repair on TH-cam.
Thanks to your great video, just finished the job on my 2000 Sienna CE, and still have all ten fingers attached. Some thoughts... I'd suggest that before removing the 8 bolts, use every hole available in the panel to try to see where everything is attached to the assembly. Makes replacement a lot easier. Having someone there to hold the
glass up when you're lining up the assembly is really important; I managed it alone
but it made the job much harder and risky (re fingers). Thanks again for the video.
Thanks for the video. It was just what I needed. It's a great down to earth method and I appreciate your effort. Thanks again
Awesome video thanks I'm going to do the same to my 98 Toyota Sienna. I don't have the part yet but I'm going to order a part off of Amazon that I found.
Thank you so much for this video +Roderick Young! You saved me a ton of money!
God bless Roderick Young!! Perfect and so detailed instructions. Thanks a lot!!
Raj
Blessings to you, too. I'm amazed that so many people are still driving 20-year-old Siennas.
Thanks! for your video. Very helpful. I did this on a 2000 Sienna.
I completed the repair! but a few unanticipated obstacles emerged, all of which I eventually addressed.
Unscrewing and opening up the door area was a breeze, as was unbolting and removing the old window regulator assembly. I too opted for an aftermarket one from carparts dot com, which came to about $50. delivered with tax.
The first issue that arose, was that one of the car window attachment clips was broken. The attachment clips are fused onto the bottom of the window and include the clips with screw holes in them, that attach the window to the harness of the window regulator. I don't know if this happened while I was removing the regulator, or whether the clip was broken all along, but in any case, it was broken.
I first tried lamely to glue the clip back together while the window was in the door. No dice. Glue just kept dripping down the piece, and there just wasn't enough room to maneuver epoxy. So, I knew I had to get the window out to address the repair out in the open.
First off, I had no idea how to get the window glass completely out of the door, but turned out to be a pretty easy job (which I got very good at! through taking that window in and out many times over the next days) - just pull it up, tilt it forward front side down, and slide it out backwards.
I spent a few days first trying different epoxies with or without Krazy Glue to try to reconnect the broken portion of the clip to its base, that was firmly glued onto the window, with no success. The part just kept snapping off as I tried to put the bolt back on to attach it to the window regulator harness.
Finally I went to an auto parts store - Pep Boys - and got a package of window attachment (window guide) attachment clips. One of the pairs in the package was close enough to the ones that were already on the window to pass.
The second obstacle that arose, was how to get the old window clip off. I looked over the internet and there were a couple of different schools of thought on this - including using heat, or power jigsawing the old clip off, one side at a time. I decided to use a butane micro torch and a long, large flat screwdriver, and just melted and scraped the old clip off - very easy job. (Note: do NOT use a Map gas full sized torch, I started off with this and it started to melt literally the glass and the screwdriver too! - a micro butane torch is more than hot enough.)
The third obstacle, was that after I reattached the new clip using epoxy, it turned out that it was just slightly off and the screw holes on the new clips did not match with the available hole + slot in the new regulator. I had matched up the holes on the clips with the available hole + slot in the original regulator that I had removed from the van. Turns out that the OEM regulator holes were JUST SLIGHTLY wider apart than on the factory original.
Long story short - I ended up melting the other factory clip off the window, and attaching the other OEM clip from the car parts store, and this time lining it exactly to the OEM regulator. The reason I had an OEM regulator to match up with - was that the first regulator sent to me by carparts dot com, froze up and didn't work, and they ended up sending me a replacement, which meant that I had two OEM regulators at one point, one installed, and one waiting to be returned.
Anyway, in the end I got the two new clips on the window, had them lined up exactly for the SLIGHTLY WIDER holes on the OEM regulator, and put everything back together fine. I applied some silicone grease to the window channel when I noticed that it wasn't running all that smoothly, with a final result of, it all works!
I will say that the OEM regulator is a bit clunkier than the factory one, and makes some clicking noises as it reaches its final closed position. Perhaps some silicone grease on its metal moving parts would have helped, but I had it all closed up before I thought of that. Oh, and my OEM regulator also required a reversal of the wires to make it work properly. Still, it all works perfectly, top to bottom.
Also, for some reason the window door lock switch now seems a bit loose, but it all works and I am not too worried about that. If I cared about cosmetics like that on an old van that is rarely used anyway, I would have paid the mechanic to do this job.
So - final point of this story, is that no matter what obstacles come your way, it is quite possible to complete this repair, and save yourself the roughly $500. that the mechanic may want from you. Good luck, and thanks again for your very helpful video.
cryellow Wow, you ran into a ton of problems that I didn't see on my 1999 Sienna. Thanks for the detailed explanation, it may help others. I think if that happened to me, I'd just go to a junkyard and try to get an entirely new window with clip intact.
Perfect! Just what I needed! Thank you!
I have some tips for those reading the comments.
Email your VIN # along w/ which power window regulator & motor you are looking for to all the nearby Toyota dealerships requesting quotes along w/ part numbers (some of the #'s have changed). Mine was quote as about $485 from the dealerships. I got mine on eBay for about $65 (since I had to make sure it supported the AUTO DOWN feature else the plugs will not fit).
Also, regarding the use of duct tape (to hold the windows up). Don't leave them on beyond the day as it will not hold the windows up forever and it will leave a sticky residue behind. I had to use nail polish remover and lots of rubbing w/ a cloth to remove it. And I had to dispose of the cloth.
+Ron Ablang Thanks, good tips!
Great job, just cost me $350 to get what you just did done. LOL at least now I know what to do next time.
$350 is not so bad, especially if someone doesn't want to fuss with it. I changed my own brake pads when I was young, but now, always pay someone else to do it. Sometime, we just have better things to do, you know?
Great, great, great video!!!
Be VERY carefully when you take the switches out. The bezel tends to break. Happened to me, I ended up making an adapter to screw into the assembly
Very good reminder, thanks. That's what I was trying to say at 2:00 or so. If Toyota was on the ball, they could have made the assembly so that it would pop out without damage no matter which side it was pried from, but no, they put the breakable plastic part in the place where an uninformed person is most likely to pry.
Yes you did! thank you for this video. gave me the confidence to do this work at home and same me $150. definitely helps to have another person working with you.
Always disconnect power before servicing any electrical device on your vehicle.
Sweet I'm gonna try this!
Thanks! Handy video.
+James Keeler Thanks for commenting. Hope your repair goes/went well.
Fantastic, THANKS!
Thanks for the excellent video! I was able to get the inside door panels off with only a little bit of trouble (the clips are nasty). Both front windows on my '99 Sienna XLE are coming out of their channel clips (on one side the clip is actually broken-it's seems so dumb that these are plastic, and not metal). The motors seem to work fine. Is it possible to just replace the channel clips? If so, how do you attach them to the window? Is there some kind of special adhesive to use like Platinum Bond 7800 or something like that? Is it possible they came out of the clips and/or broke them because of something being wrong with the regulators? Is it crazy to just replace the regulator and not also the motors as long as I have everything taken apart? Sorry for my five questions.
+MickeyFenn First a disclaimer: I'm not a car expert. I just took the video while I was figuring things out. The motor that I took out was fully functional in that it would work in both directions when no load was applied. For whatever reason, it just didn't have enough strength to work reliably. The new motor worked great, so I stopped thinking about it at that point. The whole assembly with motor was less than $40, so I don't think I would fuss with less.
I have no idea on the channel clips, sorry. If the plastic is fully intact, but just not bonded to the glass of the window, I suppose you could try adhesive. Seems like the adhesive would not need to be strong, because the glass is just resting on the clip by gravity, anyway.
Thanks for the info,
I purchased a new regulator (2002) from advanced auto parts for $150.00 (before I saw your video). When I connected the new regulator with the electrical the motor didn't work. What am I missing?
Hard to tell. Possibly the one you bought had a different pinout on the connector, or possibly the problem with your window was the switch, not the motor itself? It's unlikely that a brand new one that you bought would have a bad motor, but I suppose that could be possible. As a debug measure, I might use an ohmmeter to see if there is continuity (but not a dead short) in the motor winding, and try connecting 12 volts across it.
I'm thinking it may be the switch also because the electrical connection from the new regulator fits perfectly. How do I test if it's the switch..I'm not familiar with diagnosing electrical failures?
You'll need a voltmeter, and probably two people. The last connector before the motor should have two pins. Unplug the motor, but leave everything else connected. One person can monitor the voltage on the two pins, while the other operates the switch. When the switch is not being touched, you should see zero volts. When the switch is pushed down, you should see 12 volts (or -12, depending on how your meter probes are connected). When the switch is pulled up, you should see the opposite polarity voltage, either -12 volts or 12 volts, respectively. If the voltages are not there, the switch is most likely bad. You can find the whole assembly on eBay, or your source of choice.
I ended up getting it fixed at my local garage. They discovered the switch and the motor both needed replacing. Fortunately they could use the new regulator I purchased from advanced auto parts ($150) but the labor and parts cost me $300 or $450 altogether. The wife was not happy but at least I now know how to remove and install a window regulator on a sienna.
Thanks, excellent, got my girlfriend's replaced (bought same/similar complete unit from ebay,
smart men .
Hi. I'm having the same problem and I've been watching your video over and over. I'm about ready to order the part from eBay but I notice the wires only have two. On the one I took out there's five. My van is 2002. Also did you know the location of the power window shears? When I was messing around with things my rear vent and power doorstopped working. I can't test my passenger side window because I definitely broke the switch and a half hazard attempt to solve my problem.
I'm not positive. Either your model year has a different connector, or you're looking at the wrong connector. There's that 5-wire deal at around 5:25 in the video, but you'll find that upstream of that, the actual motor has another connector with only two wires (at least on my model). The motor is simple, apply voltage one way, it rolls up, reverse polarity, it rolls down. I have the cheap CE model of van, so no power door. Can't help you, there.
That helps! My window goes up crooked. I think it came off the track.
Easy job
I'm not a car expert, so it was less easy for me, but I'm glad if any of my tips helped you.
Mr Young: Does your minivan have the AUTO DOWN feature? I'm finding on eBay that the ones that are cheaper (less than $50) don't fit in models that have the AUTO DOWN feature. Does your driver's side window button say "AUTO" on it?
+Ron Ablang Yes, if I push the button down hard, the window will go all the way down, even if I release the button. My switch tested good, so I never replaced it. Thanks for the heads-up on the fit problem, though. What year is your Sienna?
+Roderick Young I have a 1999 also, but mine's an LE model. I was browsing for parts on eB@y and I noticed all of the cheaper ones state, "Does not fit in car models w/ the AUTO DOWN feature". Would you care to share what part # you bought for your minivan? Seems like for sure I'd have to pay $50+.
+Ron Ablang The original listing is gone on ebay, but I got it from a place called carpartswholesale, and the listing said "New Window Regulator Driver Left Side Front with motor Power LH Hand TO1350134"
It appears to work fine, even with auto down, but possibly, it's missing some electronic component that limits the current and causes the motor to cut out when the auto down is employed. You take your chances...
+Ron Ablang see also my reply to @rudy poirier below.
Thanks!!! Great video.
Kenneth Eng: sorry that happened to you.
I'm not saying that the wires are always backwards, of course, only that mine were. I suppose that if the wires are backwards, then the action of pushing the window switch hard to that it lowers all the way would actually raise the window all the way, and maybe never stop?
How did you get the wires out of the connector coming from the motor actually out of the connector? I got the one piece of plastic out of the connector but wires still don't seem to want to come out. Thanks.
Gogle Plus Sucks You need to get a fine jeweler's screwdriver, and pry up the plastic housing. There's a little tab on each wire retaining the pin. Insert the screwdriver from the wire side (I think, might be the pin side), and pry up. Pull gently on the wire, and the pin should come out, still crimped onto the wire. If it doesn't come out with a gentle pull, then the retaining plastic tab is still engaged.
Gogle Plus Sucks Oh, one other option. If it's too hard to release the wires, you could always cut them and re-splice them the right way, with wire nuts, or solder and wrap with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
Yeah do not pry that window switch control bezel from the side toward the back of the car. It will break that little plastic tab... Ask me how I know 😒
And they want $45 (as of 2019) just for a new bezel for my '02. Ridiculous. So now I'm just living with a loose bezel.
In these days of 3-D printers, you would think that old parts wouldn't cost so much. But yes, I'm with you. I think my life is happier because I'm willing to live with flaws, rather than have everything perfect.
If the passenger window works and not the drivers side doesn't, is the regulator the problem or something else? I already bought a new switch. Still doesn't work.
I'm not an expert, but my guess is that yes, it's the regulator. Presumably, the driver's side got used more, and wore out. It's a moot point now, but it's possible to figure out whether the switch is good or bad with a multimeter, or just by bypassing it with a piece of wire, taking care not to short +battery with ground.
How to you swap the two wires? I bought a motor, going opposite directions. I tried hard to pull the wire out, no success. There must be trick.
If you look carefully, there is a tiny tab on the pin that keeps it in the plastic shell. You should be able to push that down with a jeweler's screwdriver, needle, or other similar tool, and the pin should just pop out of the shell.
Nice video. I have removed the power window motor from my Toyota and want to test the motor. The motor plug has 5 pins, 4 in a row and 1 aside. Do you know how to connect positive and negetive to test the motor? Regards,
Orlando Jaman Hi, sorry for the delay in replying. The motor that was on the 1999 Sienna had only two wires. I'm guessing that you have a different model, and unfortunately, don't know what the pinout would be. What you might do is follow the wires from the actual motor to the plug, and connect power to those. Polarity does not matter. One polarity raises the window, and the other lowers it.
If you mean the plug going to the switch panel, two of those pins are the battery positive and negative, and two are for the motor. Around the middle of my video, I show what pins to jumper to operate the motor, but that's when the motor is still in the door.
OK..my Toyota is a Rav4 2002...the motor is good but it was the switch that was faulty...
regards
Orlando Jaman Glad you found it! Easier and cheaper fix, too.
When I tried to lock doors it doesn't want to lock all doors,windows are good except locking of doors
Great video how would you test if it was the switch?
The way I did it was to unplug the motor from the switch assembly, then get some wires and carefully jumper +12V and ground to the wires of the motor. The motor still was weak, so I assumed that the motor was bad, and the switch could be eliminated. On the other hand, if the motor worked just fine in both directions when power was jumpered to it, then I would assume the switch was weak and needed to be replaced. I was hesitant to simply test the switch with an ohmmeter, because if it was bad, it was only partially bad, and I didn't know what a good one was supposed to read.
So that aftermarket motor assembly bolt right up
Yes. The construction was slightly different, but all the holes lined up. The window motor (regulator) is apparently a common issue - maybe because Toyotas just outlast their own power windows. If the aftermarket parts didn't fit, I think we'd see feedback in the reviews on eBay.
can i replace my 2002 toyota sienna van front passenger side window glass with 2005 toyota sienna front side passenger window glass ??
Sorry, I don't know. I'm just an amateur. If it was me, I'd look for the 2005 glass online, and see if was advertised as fitting a range of Sienna years that included 2002.
Switched wires burned out my controller
which brand did u buy from ebay. any problems now?
It was years ago, so unfortunately, I don't remember the brand or name of the vendor. It was about $40, though. No issues since installation, but then again, the original part had no issues for the first 15 years, too.
Roderick young, can you please post eBay's link that you bought from the window motor !!!
That was a few years ago, so I don't really have the information on hand, but if you search eBay for "Sienna Regulator 1999 (or whatever your year is)" you should be able to find one.
Did not show where u plug the motor in 2it man
Sorry, caught what I could. Hopefully, someone who took the assembly apart would be able to remember where the old motor plugged in.
awesome now do it to mine lol no really lol
K
If this thing drops and your finger happened to be in there that would be umm.
*b a d*
No good bla bla bla bla