2015 Honda Fit Starter replacement
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 พ.ย. 2021
- thank you for watching!!!!!
If this video was helpful to you and if you would like to place a donation, here is my Venmo and PayPal information. Or I would really appreciate it if you could share my TH-cam channel on your social media. Links will be on the bottom.
#hondafit #mechanic #jabothemechanic
venmo.com/code?user_id=265066...
www.paypal.me/urbanautomotive - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Great video -- very helpful. Thanks very much. I just completed this replacement today on my daughter's 2015 Fit with 65,000 miles which we've owned since new. It has push button start and would click at the relays and starter, but no start -- about 50% of the time. So far, this seems to have fixed the problem. I used a universal joint and extensions to access the power wire nut. Like Jabo said, a magnet on a stick makes getting the nut out and also putting it back much easier. I bent a coat hangar and used it for getting the boot on and off. Pay attention to how the solenoid connector releases. You press down the clip from the rear (where the wire is) and then pull out. I didn't pay attention to this at first, and tried to lift up the rear tab, and couldn't get the connector to release. Then after I looked at it carefully, I realized you need to press down at the rear which raises the tab, then pull while holding it down. If you have this right, it pops right off. As Jabo mentioned, you can see the 14mm upper bolt from the top if you pull the plastic box back from above, but it is much easier to loosen and tighten the upper bolt from below. A deep well 14mm socket works well for this to give you the extension you need to get the ratchet in a good position from below. I had a devil of a time with the lower bolt. Jabo mentioned it was tough, but that was an understatement in my case. Be careful with this bolt. The flats are tapered, and thus only about half of the bolt head actually grips the socket. I used a 12 point, but probably would have been better with a 6 point for better grip. I had to use a 18" breaker bar with a 1/2" drive to get it to budge, pushing in the whole time to make sure the socket was bottomed out on the bolt head so it wouldn't slip and round the bolt off. However, once it came free, my "whew" was ruined when I got about 2 turns and then it seized again. I could tighten it back, but could only run it in and out about two turns. Over a 4 hour period of effort, including PB blaster, working it back and forth, and eventually applying heat with a propane torch and working it with the breaker bar, I was able to get the bolt out. Miraculously, the bolt didn't break, the socket didn't break or slip. I seriously considered using a Dremel or oscillating tool to cut through the starter flange to get the starter out, that's how bad it was. It turned out that apparently the bolt was cross-threaded during Honda's original assembly of the car, and the threaded aluminum flange of the starter had galled into the steel bolt, and the threads were impacted with metal. I've worked on a lot of stuff over the years, and never seen anything like this. I ordered a new bolt from the Honda dealer, which at $3 was a bargain. After the nightmare of this bolt, the reassembly with a new starter (and good threads) was easy and took maybe 30 minutes. As Jaco recommended, install the lower bolt first but don't snug it down to hold the starter in position, then you can "feel" the upper bolt into position. After hand-threading it, I used a u-joint, socket and extension to hand tighten the upper bolt from above (I envy that fancy electric ratchet), and then snugged it from below using the deep well socket. I didn't need to remove the radiator overflow, lower radiator hose, or oil filter. But when I was reassembling, I decided to go ahead and change the oil and filter since it was right in front of me, in spite of only having 4000 miles on it. In summary, a magnet on a stick, universal joints for the sockets and extensions, and a good size breaker bar with quality sockets are good to have on hand. I hope no one ever has the same problem with the lower bolt that I did!
Dod the start issue go away after the new starter?
make more video of the 2015 honda fit. thank you for sharing this. Its very good. Very detailed. thanks mate.
Wow, I guess we all have the same starter issue right around 60k miles! Honda Services wants to charge me $1000+ for the service & labor.
Yup, got hit with this now too. 63k miles
I'm at 66k 2015 push start. Sometime it won't start on the first attempt usually only takes 2 attempts what issues did you have?
Can also be the ignition switch. At 120k miles and had to replace it twice. Luckily a cheap part and relatively easy job
Just replaced the starter and this was a great help - Thanks. I've replaced starters on other cars and this was by far the hardest - took several hours to basically disconnect and reconnect two bolts and two electrical connections. It would have been easier if I'd disconnected some of the hoses and other electrical connections that were in the way, but I avoid that if possible. I used impact wrenches to loosen the bolts, and a variety of wrenches and ratchets and sockets.
Thank you, Jabo, for this video.
I just replaced my starter after watching this video along with another video.
My takeaway is this:
If you have a 90° power socket wrench, use it. If you don't have one, get one.
If you have a swivel socket wrench, use it. If you don't have one, get one.
Removing the nut and two bolts were the longest part of the process.
Putting everything back together was a piece of cake.
The job took me five hours total - With the tools in the video, it could've taken me three.
Don't give up like I thought I wanted to a few times.... The bolts are a pain in the arse, but they can be dealt with without the tools in the video, but it's a tight squeeze, and you must have a cheater bar to extend at least 5" below the car for leverage.
Great job thanks. Not many videos on this make and model car. Found your video helpful
Glad it helped
Very helpful video. Got mine swapped in about and hour
Great video man. Super helpful 👌...
Yes, excellent video, thanks! Much better than the stupid Haynes video that showed taking all kinds of stuff off. The top bolt of my starter was not in the same place as in the video -- it had an extension on it, so the head was about 4" to the left. I spent at least an extra hr finding it and trying to remove the bolt from the position shown in the video where it wasn't.
God bless your beautiful soul. This video saved me $300
I f up and put the bottom bolt on backwards. Please help with ideas on how to get it out.
Basically i put the bottom bolt in and tightened it down on the wrong side. As i tightened it, it was very hard but i kept going (like a dum bas) then all of a sudden halfway through tightening it it became extreme easy to tighten. And the bolt head slid easily past the now cross threaded threads and Thats when i realized i put the bolt in on the wrong side. But now i cant get it out bc its not made to unscrew when the threads get reversed. My only option right now is to take a dremal and cut the bolt in half and take it out the other side
How did you know the starter was bad? Symtoms?
I replaced my starter today. Thnx dude
Glad it helped
Thank you!!
Your the best
Thanks so much
Its easer to pull off the intake. Gasket is re-usable. Lets you pull the starter out the top.
Большое спасибо, все ясно и доходчиво. Пошел действовать согласно вашим рекомендациям.
Could this help me with my manual 2018 Honda Fit?
I'm having a hell of a time trying to take off the 14mm top socket of the starter, I just feel like the space is so small, and I'm not the most experienced at this. Any help is appreciated 😓
Jabo couldn’t you take the starter off completely from the bottom? Or is that top bolt hard to do from the bottom?
Where did you buy the starter from ?
Hi i cant find ANY information anywhere about how to replace the specific STARTER TO BATTERY CABLE for honda fit (2012). Everyone talks about replacing starter or replacing battery terminals but nothing about the battery cable that goes down all the way to the starter. Can you help?
So the little lift tab on the sensor broke off for us 😭 can anyone give me advice on how to disconnect the sensor after this happens? Or are we screwed?
This video makes it look easy. I tried it and it’s a bitch trying to get to the 14mm bolt with the hose and wires in the way. I’ll take mine to a mechanic instead.
BROOO.... You did this without REMOVING the Manifold, the dipstick, the oil filter and all kinds of crap, it seems.
Just watched the Haynes Manual and now I wannna sell my Honda, til I saw this.
This car is BS. I recently changed the clutch master and had to remove the air box, brake booster, re bleed my clutch and brakes from all 4 calipers
My starter went out at 100,000 which I guess isn’t bad.
2009 fit is much much much harder to replace the starter
Because you have the plastic shroud that goes under the engine hanging down at an angle where it would not normally be found, and because it is hiding things behind it, it is hard to locate landmarks that I would use to help me compare the image in the video, to the image I would see with my naked eye when looking under the car. Also, because the camera is close up, there is often not enough area in view, to help identify what I am looking at.
There is a factory recommended place to locate the saddle of your rolling jack in order to jack up the front of the car, that is, to jack both front wheels the same distance off the ground at the same time. In actual practice, I've found that this recommended spot turns out to be a terrific place to jack up the car. For some reason you have placed the saddle of your rolling jack at a spot only a few inches away from that ideal spot, placed it under a part of the subframe that is not as strong - even though it would have actually been _easier_ to roll the jack into into the _correct_ place.
Also, are you supporting the car with only one jack stand? And then getting under the car? Jack stand makers say "always use jack stands in pairs." I tend to agree with that particular bit of advice.
Unless the car's body is badly rusted, the reinforced areas on the pinch weld, near each wheel, are usually the very best place to locate jack stands. I have never removed a starter from this car - I came here to learn how - but I am pretty sure that placing the jack stands at the 2 front pinch-weld jack points would put them quite well out of the way from where you are working, on the starter, would it not? Maybe I'm mistaken?
Now, the front-center lift point is indeed impossible to get to, with any rolling hydraulic jack I have ever seen - even with a jack that has an initial saddle height that is very low, and that has a long reach. Any rolling jack will be stopped by the car's bumper before its saddle aligns with the car's correct front center lift point. So is not surprising that mechanics might look for other places to place their jack saddle. However I think it is much wizer to go with the manufacturer's recommended lift point. On unibody cars it can be hard, especially for experienced mechanics, to properly estimate whether a spot is a good spot to lift on, or not. Places that look strong, may actually be weak. There are several fairly easy ways to get your jack saddle under that recommended lift point. One way is to drive up onto very low ramps - just get the tires 4 cm off the ground, and resting on some lumber. Then you'll be able to roll most any rolling hydraulic jack under the car from the front of the car, until its saddle aligns with the front-center lift point. *Just be sure, when letting the car down, to remember to let it down onto those same ramps.* Otherwise you may have a nasty problem.
In summary, I think Jabo's ideas for lifting the car are (1) hard to follow due to the way it was videographed, (2) all wrong, and possibly leading to bending of body parts (3) dangerous. I know Jabo is not the only person who uses his lifting and supporting methods. I repudiate all of them.
In my view, the first thing to do in regard to safely lifting a car and supporting a car on jack stands, is to read the factory authorized service literature. Doing anything else amounts to doing it by trial and error - and is risky. For the most part, only if there is severe rust underneath a car such that it makes the factory recommended methods impractical, would I personally resort to trying my own way of lifting a car. When I do that, I recognize that there is a significant likelihood that I will damage the car further. As for getting under a car with unibody construction that has severe rust - this can be dangerous to life and limb. I don't like Jabo's trial and error approach to lifting the car and to supporting it while getting under it. I think it's a dangerous approach. I would read the official service literature before watching this video. It available from Helms publishing, but only on line, and there is a subscription fee. However there are web pages where people have posted an exact copy of a few of its pages, including the lift and support page. The owners manual mentions that special places exist for jacking up each wheel, when changing a tire, but does not clearly identify their location or mention that they are also the places for locating jack stands. No mention is made of the front-center and rear-center jacking points.
Normally I would prefer not to be so adversarial when criticizing a how-to video, to be a little gentler, but in the case of automobile maintenance and repair I believe my experience requires me to speak up. Just about _every_ time I get a car in for maintenance or repair, even cars that are not very old at all, I see damage caused by improper lifting and support. It pisses me off. Do mechanics think that customers don't notice the damage that mechanics do to their customer's cars, because the damage is underneath the car? I'm feeling "it doesn't matter; you can't see it" attitude from many mechanics. I have even seen new cars from a new car dealer with body damage, underneath the car, apparently caused when someone in the dealer service department lifted the car to install some accessory or other. Say mud flaps. It pisses me off.
Bro, take life a bit less serious. Less drugs too
Could you be any more insufferable? Christ.
Yeah… easy my ass! lol Come on now
Jabo says "I want to make sure you guys see this bolt as I'm not going to be able to show that." Which is it, you are going to make sure we can see the bolt, or you are not going to be able to show us the bolt?