17:35 did make me cringe slightly with the tyre levers but at the same time I do get it - when I first started working at a bike shop I was defeated by many a tyre mainly kevlar lined 700 x 25mm but there is a few tricks to make it slightly easier • too much air in the tube will make it impossible to do with hands alone, id only inflate it prior to fitting just enough for it to barely hold an oval shape l • make sure the first bead you have put on is sitting in the centre of the rim (the deepest part of the rim) this should give you a few mm extra slack in the tyre • as you start getting the second bead on 3/4 way around the rim id let the smallest amount of air out of the tube • at this point id try to push the inner tube alone into the centre of the rim and then the tyre (kind of poke the side of your hand between the tyre and the tube and attempt to get it over the lip of the rim) • at this point if it doesn’t pop on easy enough then id put the part of the tyre that is yet to be seated against the floor, check again to make sure the beads are in the centre of the rim and then almost grab and push the tyre downwards almost as if you are trying to stretch it and just as you get to the unseated part of the tyre keep hold of the tyre to not release the tension you have created and then bring it into your lap (while standing) form this point it should be somewhat smooth sailing especially with a wider tyre by working either side with the palm of your hands it should just pop on - having stable / strong wrists definitely helps and the muscle on the ball of your thumb will definitely ache if its a exceptionally tight fit After 6 months of working at a cycle shop I had the technique down and was rarely beaten by a tyre and the look on a customers face when they came in with a half fitted tyre claiming it to be the wrong size and I pop it on in 15 seconds is priceless Probably sound like a right nerd but this is best practice to not puncture inner tubes / deform or kink a bead If you have any interest in learning to do it by hand practice on a 29 x 2ish or 26 x 2ish tend to be the easiest although isn’t strictly true - manufacturing tolerances and all that jazz Great video, beautiful bike and hope this “ slightly above useless information “ helps
@@spinningtrueagreed, 50Nm can sometimes be difficult to achieve even with a full size torque wrench and other times it clicks before you would expect - lots of variables such as manufacturing tolerances, thread condition and or cleanliness - I have definitely noticed a huge difference in how tight 50Nm feels before and after bottom bracket chasing (same bike same bb) another variable with crank bolts for example chain sets which mount to ISIS or square taper bottom brackets you would use the crank arm for leverage against your torque wrench and crank arm length plays a huge part in how difficult it is to reach 50Nm - a 16” / 20” bike usually come with 152 mm chain sets and a 700c bike usually come with 172mm / 175mm and its significant how much 20mm less length on the crank arm can impact the difficulty in reaching 50nm
@@lewt2356 These are all very interesting and valid points, especially about BB chasing... when I worked in a bike shop the BB threading tool was one of my favorites, made the bottom brackets go in oh so smoothly.... but interesting point that that would affect the torque spec / how 50 Nm feels. In the bike shop I worked we basically only used a torque wrench for crank bolts and anything carbon fiber, but it was a very old school bike shop where we didn't really see a lot of modern tech / higher end bikes. I guess my opinion is that there are some applications where the exact torque is more important than others but if you have one it's always a good idea to use it. I also think that in some cases it's worse to over tighten than under tighten and a torque wrench can save you from that too.
There is certain areas where you could put too much grease for example inside of a loose ball bearing style hub - too much grease could significantly slow the rotation of the wheel but areas like bottom bracket threads doesn’t really affect anything except the cleanup and your next service
beautiful color, nice build! 🤓
Thanks!
Very cool 🤙🏼
17:35 did make me cringe slightly with the tyre levers but at the same time I do get it - when I first started working at a bike shop I was defeated by many a tyre mainly kevlar lined 700 x 25mm but there is a few tricks to make it slightly easier
• too much air in the tube will make it impossible to do with hands alone, id only inflate it prior to fitting just enough for it to barely hold an oval shape l
• make sure the first bead you have put on is sitting in the centre of the rim (the deepest part of the rim) this should give you a few mm extra slack in the tyre
• as you start getting the second bead on 3/4 way around the rim id let the smallest amount of air out of the tube
• at this point id try to push the inner tube alone into the centre of the rim and then the tyre (kind of poke the side of your hand between the tyre and the tube and attempt to get it over the lip of the rim)
• at this point if it doesn’t pop on easy enough then id put the part of the tyre that is yet to be seated against the floor, check again to make sure the beads are in the centre of the rim and then almost grab and push the tyre downwards almost as if you are trying to stretch it and just as you get to the unseated part of the tyre keep hold of the tyre to not release the tension you have created and then bring it into your lap (while standing) form this point it should be somewhat smooth sailing especially with a wider tyre by working either side with the palm of your hands it should just pop on - having stable / strong wrists definitely helps and the muscle on the ball of your thumb will definitely ache if its a exceptionally tight fit
After 6 months of working at a cycle shop I had the technique down and was rarely beaten by a tyre and the look on a customers face when they came in with a half fitted tyre claiming it to be the wrong size and I pop it on in 15 seconds is priceless
Probably sound like a right nerd but this is best practice to not puncture inner tubes / deform or kink a bead
If you have any interest in learning to do it by hand practice on a 29 x 2ish or 26 x 2ish tend to be the easiest although isn’t strictly true - manufacturing tolerances and all that jazz
Great video, beautiful bike and hope this “ slightly above useless information “ helps
45-50Nm translates in practice to - do it as tight as you can by hand.
In my experience no it's definitely possible to over tighten cassettes and 50nm really isn't that tight
@@spinningtrueagreed, 50Nm can sometimes be difficult to achieve even with a full size torque wrench and other times it clicks before you would expect - lots of variables such as manufacturing tolerances, thread condition and or cleanliness - I have definitely noticed a huge difference in how tight 50Nm feels before and after bottom bracket chasing (same bike same bb) another variable with crank bolts for example chain sets which mount to ISIS or square taper bottom brackets you would use the crank arm for leverage against your torque wrench and crank arm length plays a huge part in how difficult it is to reach 50Nm - a 16” / 20” bike usually come with 152 mm chain sets and a 700c bike usually come with 172mm / 175mm and its significant how much 20mm less length on the crank arm can impact the difficulty in reaching 50nm
@@lewt2356 These are all very interesting and valid points, especially about BB chasing... when I worked in a bike shop the BB threading tool was one of my favorites, made the bottom brackets go in oh so smoothly.... but interesting point that that would affect the torque spec / how 50 Nm feels. In the bike shop I worked we basically only used a torque wrench for crank bolts and anything carbon fiber, but it was a very old school bike shop where we didn't really see a lot of modern tech / higher end bikes. I guess my opinion is that there are some applications where the exact torque is more important than others but if you have one it's always a good idea to use it. I also think that in some cases it's worse to over tighten than under tighten and a torque wrench can save you from that too.
Don't be shy with the grease. See it as rust protection.
There is certain areas where you could put too much grease for example inside of a loose ball bearing style hub - too much grease could significantly slow the rotation of the wheel but areas like bottom bracket threads doesn’t really affect anything except the cleanup and your next service