for pinholes in your bellows use black flex seal sprayed into a little cup and applied with a Q-tip or similar device. cover the entire bellows if you like cause it will match the color of your bellows and it is unaffected by opening and closing the camera it is thin enough that it doesnt goop up. Also don't forget to put black tape over the red view port on the back if it didnt come with the little window cover. I have done that with all my folders and have gotten terrific results.
I have the 6.5 x 11 folder, the Kodak Vigilant with an uncoated f4.5 126mm lens. This one was made in the USA, but the earlier f6.3 'art deco' models were made in England. I made a frame mask using clear acetate self-adhesive laminate that allows the film to flatten against the pressure plate without affecting infinity. If you look at a 120 spool, there is an indented line showing where to snip away for the smaller 616 spool diameter.
What a great classic camera! FYI - fresh Shanghai GP3 is available in 127 and 620. It's not the best film, but I've found if you use stand development with DDX 1+9 for 45 minutes it really improves. I haven't tried xtol yet.
I found out in the 'Shoot on film' channel a great tip to use a nail clipper to cut of the edges of a 120-filmspool in order to use them in a 620 film camera! I tested this in a box 620 camera I had and it worked flawlessly! Just sayin :-)
It's not difficult to tell a triplet from a Tessar type -- shine a light into the rear lens group (camera back open, bellows collapsed, shutter closed is the easy way) and look for a third, faint reflection (much dimmer than the two from the front and rear surfaces of the group). If it's present, that's a cemented doublet, making the lens a Tessar type. FWIW, the f/3.5 Anaston as seen on the Pony 135 Model C (which I had as my first adjustable camera in 1972, and first 35 mm camera) was a triplet, and a pretty good one (based on the photos I was able to make with it). This is also true of the Anaston on the Kodak Reflex. The Anastar on a Reflex II is a proprietary design, 4 elements in 4 groups (vs. 4 elements in 3 groups for a Tessar type), IMO better than a Tessar. Multiple price point versions of the "same" model camera was actually pretty common during the folder era. The Autographic Vest Pocket Kodak had four lens options with two different shutters; most of the Zeiss Ikonta and Nettar line had a range of triplets and Tessar type lenses in different speeds and shutters ranging from three-speed to full-range Compur (1 second up to 1/200) or Compur-Rapid (1 second up to 1/400); this was also true of the Agfa Isolette and Ansco Speedex line -- the very same model name with three or four lens options from a slow triplet to a fairly fast (for the day and format) Tessar type (even a Heliar on one Isolette, as I recall) and shutters from very simple to full professional range (including flash sync after about 1952). "I get these because I like having fun with cameras." The perfect statement about my sixty-plus cameras, none newer than forty or so years and a couple just past the century mark.
Cool viddy!!! I have about 4 Tourists ... only one is the single speed one, but I honestly don't know the various models I have, just dig them ... visually beautiful!!! I had no idea they were hot now!!! The sad thing is that FPP 620 film add spools won't work in them!!!
The pre-WII Kodak Pocket Range Finder works better in my opinion than the post-WWII Kodak Service Range Finder, although it’s not as pretty. Any range finder will work.
And here I am dreaming of a GF670/Bessa III 😅💸😭 with home 3d printing, I hope someone could possibly make a modern folder. Thank you for all your videos.
The hardest parts about making a modern 3D printed folder are the shutter and the bellows. You probably can't 3D print the bellows, and building a shutter without the decades of experience that went into one like a Flash Kodamatic or Synchro-Compur is likely to take *many* iterations just to get one that runs reliably. And 3D printing isn't (for now) a mass production process -- it's a prototyping method. If you want to make a camera people can afford to buy, your plastic parts will need to be either injection molded, vacuum formed, or resin cast; these can be produced quickly, in quantity. On the bright side, molds for injection molding don't cost what they did fifty years ago, by about a factor of ten or more (CNC machining and 3D CAD have made mold making more of a science and less of a black art). This is why, for instance, Lomography can sell a (pretty bad, but functional) 35 mm SLR as a KIT for about $40.
@@SilntObsvr agreed on most points, but a "modern" leaf shutter is much easier than trying to remake a clockwork shutter -- just use electronics for shutter timing. Yes, it requires batteries (oh no!) but in exchange, shutter speed precision up to the mechanical limits of the shutter and very accurate speeds out beyond 1s are easily achieved. Ilex realized this long ago, back in the late 60s-70s, and made electronic shutters, which were virtually unchanged until they were discontinued in the 2000s (ish) by Melles Griot.
This makes me want to take out my Medalist II and shoot , although I found that shooting it handheld made it difficult to keep the horizon straight. Something I don’t have much of a problem with ,with other medium format cameras
@@TheNakedPhotographer Nice ,will watch that video , don’t forget to show off the viewfinder of the Medalist it is beautiful. By the way I am looking for repairshop to get my Kodak Ektra repaired, do you know one ?
The biggest problem with the Tourist is the bellows: cheap plastic that wears out easily. It’s rare to find one of these that isn’t full of pinholes, unfortunately
Use black Flex Seal sprayed into a little cup and coat your bellows using a q-tip or other applicator it will match the color of your bellows and it isnt thick and goopy and isnt affected by opening and closing the camera. I do that to all my folders and have never had a problem.
i have this camera mint condition belows in perfect condition . do you know if there are any bussiness that might in the near future make proper film for this camera so we won't have to roll and reroll the film?thanks Richard Krotec
Kodette? Anaston lens? 105mm or 101mm? So much talking, no close-ups of camera? No analysis of photos? How about SLR for focus distance guide? Color? Settings?
![โอ้เธอช่าง... - บี้เดอะสกา ft. ต๋อง เทวัญ (Prod. by ป๋าเพชร) [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/zbWhiLFmVL0/mqdefault.jpg)
for pinholes in your bellows use black flex seal sprayed into a little cup and applied with a Q-tip or similar device. cover the entire bellows if you like cause it will match the color of your bellows and it is unaffected by opening and closing the camera it is thin enough that it doesnt goop up. Also don't forget to put black tape over the red view port on the back if it didnt come with the little window cover. I have done that with all my folders and have gotten terrific results.
I enjoy using mine as it was given to me by my grandmother who bought it new. Very much enjoyed this type of video.
I have the 6.5 x 11 folder, the Kodak Vigilant with an uncoated f4.5 126mm lens. This one was made in the USA, but the earlier f6.3 'art deco' models were made in England. I made a frame mask using clear acetate self-adhesive laminate that allows the film to flatten against the pressure plate without affecting infinity. If you look at a 120 spool, there is an indented line showing where to snip away for the smaller 616 spool diameter.
What a great classic camera!
FYI - fresh Shanghai GP3 is available in 127 and 620. It's not the best film, but I've found if you use stand development with DDX 1+9 for 45 minutes it really improves. I haven't tried xtol yet.
I found out in the 'Shoot on film' channel a great tip to use a nail clipper to cut of the edges of a 120-filmspool in order to use them in a 620 film camera! I tested this in a box 620 camera I had and it worked flawlessly! Just sayin :-)
I tried my trimmed 120 spool first. It wouldn’t fit because of the length, not the diameter.
Wow you are amazingly knowledgeable.
It's not difficult to tell a triplet from a Tessar type -- shine a light into the rear lens group (camera back open, bellows collapsed, shutter closed is the easy way) and look for a third, faint reflection (much dimmer than the two from the front and rear surfaces of the group). If it's present, that's a cemented doublet, making the lens a Tessar type.
FWIW, the f/3.5 Anaston as seen on the Pony 135 Model C (which I had as my first adjustable camera in 1972, and first 35 mm camera) was a triplet, and a pretty good one (based on the photos I was able to make with it). This is also true of the Anaston on the Kodak Reflex. The Anastar on a Reflex II is a proprietary design, 4 elements in 4 groups (vs. 4 elements in 3 groups for a Tessar type), IMO better than a Tessar.
Multiple price point versions of the "same" model camera was actually pretty common during the folder era. The Autographic Vest Pocket Kodak had four lens options with two different shutters; most of the Zeiss Ikonta and Nettar line had a range of triplets and Tessar type lenses in different speeds and shutters ranging from three-speed to full-range Compur (1 second up to 1/200) or Compur-Rapid (1 second up to 1/400); this was also true of the Agfa Isolette and Ansco Speedex line -- the very same model name with three or four lens options from a slow triplet to a fairly fast (for the day and format) Tessar type (even a Heliar on one Isolette, as I recall) and shutters from very simple to full professional range (including flash sync after about 1952).
"I get these because I like having fun with cameras." The perfect statement about my sixty-plus cameras, none newer than forty or so years and a couple just past the century mark.
Cool viddy!!! I have about 4 Tourists ... only one is the single speed one, but I honestly don't know the various models I have, just dig them ... visually beautiful!!! I had no idea they were hot now!!! The sad thing is that FPP 620 film add spools won't work in them!!!
I take a film photography class and when your in the dark room I’m like” I know that
The pre-WII Kodak Pocket Range Finder works better in my opinion than the post-WWII Kodak Service Range Finder, although it’s not as pretty. Any range finder will work.
And here I am dreaming of a GF670/Bessa III 😅💸😭 with home 3d printing, I hope someone could possibly make a modern folder. Thank you for all your videos.
The hardest parts about making a modern 3D printed folder are the shutter and the bellows. You probably can't 3D print the bellows, and building a shutter without the decades of experience that went into one like a Flash Kodamatic or Synchro-Compur is likely to take *many* iterations just to get one that runs reliably. And 3D printing isn't (for now) a mass production process -- it's a prototyping method. If you want to make a camera people can afford to buy, your plastic parts will need to be either injection molded, vacuum formed, or resin cast; these can be produced quickly, in quantity.
On the bright side, molds for injection molding don't cost what they did fifty years ago, by about a factor of ten or more (CNC machining and 3D CAD have made mold making more of a science and less of a black art). This is why, for instance, Lomography can sell a (pretty bad, but functional) 35 mm SLR as a KIT for about $40.
@@SilntObsvr agreed on most points, but a "modern" leaf shutter is much easier than trying to remake a clockwork shutter -- just use electronics for shutter timing. Yes, it requires batteries (oh no!) but in exchange, shutter speed precision up to the mechanical limits of the shutter and very accurate speeds out beyond 1s are easily achieved. Ilex realized this long ago, back in the late 60s-70s, and made electronic shutters, which were virtually unchanged until they were discontinued in the 2000s (ish) by Melles Griot.
The tourist 2 has a slightly larger view finder
I read on a forum you could use clippers to trim plastic in 120 film to fit 620 without rolling. Any experience with doing this?
You can, this particular camera can’t take the length of the 120 spool. Trimming doesn’t fix that.
This makes me want to take out my Medalist II and shoot , although I found that shooting it handheld made it difficult to keep the horizon straight. Something I don’t have much of a problem with ,with other medium format cameras
I have one of those too. One day I’ll make a video with that one. It certainly is heavy compared to a Tourist.
@@TheNakedPhotographer Nice ,will watch that video , don’t forget to show off the viewfinder of the Medalist it is beautiful. By the way I am looking for repairshop to get my Kodak Ektra repaired, do you know one ?
I’m afraid not.
Great trick using a steel spool in a plastic tank. But you can't with 35mm, isn't it?
You need the right reel. Hewes makes steel reels for Jobo tanks, both 35mm and 120.
@@TheNakedPhotographer great. I’ll try to find some of them on ebay. Thank you!
They rarely show up on eBay. You can buy them new from Freestyle but they are pricey.
The biggest problem with the Tourist is the bellows: cheap plastic that wears out easily. It’s rare to find one of these that isn’t full of pinholes, unfortunately
Yeah, I found that out when I developed the film. I should have checked first. My higher end one has good bellows though.
Use black Flex Seal sprayed into a little cup and coat your bellows using a q-tip or other applicator it will match the color of your bellows and it isnt thick and goopy and isnt affected by opening and closing the camera. I do that to all my folders and have never had a problem.
Can I get the rod when you put you film in pls
i have this camera mint condition belows in perfect condition . do you know if there are any bussiness that might in the near future make proper film for this camera so we won't have to roll and reroll the film?thanks Richard Krotec
Some stores offer a 620 version, but the prices are too high for me. I’ll just do it myself
@@TheNakedPhotographer hi thanks but can you tell me what store you know would sell them the 620 film ? Richard
B&H had some listed
Kodette? Anaston lens? 105mm or 101mm? So much talking, no close-ups of camera? No analysis of photos? How about SLR for focus distance guide? Color? Settings?
How do I give you some money I don't want to buy anything because of import but I want to buy you a coffee or some film give you something ffs
Use the Super Thanks option under the video