I was thinking a 6202 inner race honed out similar to set up bearings when setting up a rear diff. I'm fixing to do this myself for the first time so between you and afleetcommand I think I can get it done.
I'm glad you got it licked. One thing that might make it a bit easier would be to get a rod coupling nut of the same thread size as your threaded rod segment. They are much taller, than the standard nut, so when you are cranking it down you should not need a stack of flat washers in order to get the extra length required. Husqvarna used to make all sorts of specialty shop tools & accessories. Unfortunately, most of the older service tools are NLA.
I have used tapped 5/8 bolt, washers and pvc pipe as spacers between the washers. Pipe can be cut to any length and is cheap. I will watch your 3.0 video to see where you have got the development. I have put cases together with no shop tools other than some washers and pvc pipe spacers. It can be done by differential heating the flywheel side of the crank. Then you just use the clutch spider to pull everything together.
A suggestion. I would get a rigid copper coupling and use it for the spacer. It might distort over time but the copper would not Mar the bearing or case. I would also tap one end of the drill rod for the flywheel end of the crank and the other end of the drill rod to the thread pattern of the pro side, so the same tool could be used on either end.
The best & cheapest way to do it without expensive makers tools is to put the crank in a plastic bag wrap it up to keep water out then put this package in your freezer for a few days as heat expands cold contracts
i gotta disagree, hate the ms290 with a passion. these pro saws go together like butter, and I don't hesitate to fully tear one down anymore. but thats me :)
This is the old way, the new tools you've already seen. I was prototyping in this stage.... and I like my ratchet rather than using an open ended wrench :)
Pushing that bearing down using the threads put a great deal of stress on those threads, risking stripping. At a minimum, I would freeze the crank and slightly heat the bearings before threading it down to reduce stress on that fitting.
I'll disagree. Have done this now dozens of times without stripping a rod. Have a look at some of my other vids and tools. Putting a crank in a bearing without heat or cooling is fine as long as the stresses don't tend to put lateral forces on bearings. You are welcome to heat and cool things but with my tools there is no need during installation.
@@matthewolson8875 Good to know, that crank steel must be more hardened than I thought. I have to do this same thing this weekend on my Jonsered so thanks for the update.
@@matthewwheaton5835 have a look at my other vids. It really doesn't take much torque to pull the crank into the bearing. I have used the same piece of 1/2 rod to pull bearings into cases cold for a while now...no risk of stripping. No risk of burning myself either ...no heat lol. Keep in touch! Join us live on youtube sometime!
because the flywheel nut has very minimal travel. ... very minimal when you account for how much of it you'd need to grab to not worry about busting the threads. ...and based on that minimal travel it'd take a lot of time .... but I like the way you are thinkin :) make a vid if you get it to work btw, this is now an old video, and I have new tools :)
i used the translator and tried to understand what you said. I don't need a double nut on one side that's true. I could use a bolt and then I would only need one nut.....
Much easier to put the crankshaft in a freezer and warm the bearings with just a heat lamp or hair drier. Those small bearings will slip right on..no problem.
Joe W the next person that tries this will get just as frustrated. I put plenty of cases together with heat and cold....freezer...torch...oven....etc. no more of that for me. Putting bearings in cases I sometimes do with a torch now...but that's harmless to the bearings. Pulling the cases together with the tools I have now is by far the safest and most controlled method.... I like the light bulb idea though...that's better than using a heat gun or torch
@@matthewolson8875 I peeked at them, very helpful for me being a fairly green arborist. These saws in their random forms can become a headache if you don't get the right tools.
@@warimp saws have been a headache for folks for a long time. This channel is my personal journey to educate myself and share what I learned along the way. I've really enjoyed making the crank tools and sharing them with folks... quite the adventure but it wasn't without some growing pains lol
@@matthewolson8875 I am actually glad you did decide to do these vids. Can't tell you how many times iv asked myself, can't I make a tool to do this more the right way? And I was kinda shocked when the bearing is pressed on. Of course it would be, vehicle bearings tend to be. Makes sense, but I had considered ripping into an old saw and make a Frankenstein. Hadnt thought about pressing bearings for the piston....I would a hard a huge mess and had to run off to town
I was thinking a 6202 inner race honed out similar to set up bearings when setting up a rear diff. I'm fixing to do this myself for the first time so between you and afleetcommand I think I can get it done.
Nice....let me know if you have questions
I'm glad you got it licked. One thing that might make it a bit easier would be to get a rod coupling nut of the same thread size as your threaded rod segment. They are much taller, than the standard nut, so when you are cranking it down you should not need a stack of flat washers in order to get the extra length required. Husqvarna used to make all sorts of specialty shop tools & accessories. Unfortunately, most of the older service tools are NLA.
Urbicide I like the coupling nut idea! thanks!
You'r welcome. Thanks for the videos.
I have used tapped 5/8 bolt, washers and pvc pipe as spacers between the washers. Pipe can be cut to any length and is cheap. I will watch your 3.0 video to see where you have got the development.
I have put cases together with no shop tools other than some washers and pvc pipe spacers. It can be done by differential heating the flywheel side of the crank. Then you just use the clutch spider to pull everything together.
Dale Renno enjoy version 3.0 :)
A suggestion. I would get a rigid copper coupling and use it for the spacer. It might distort over time but the copper would not Mar the bearing or case. I would also tap one end of the drill rod for the flywheel end of the crank and the other end of the drill rod to the thread pattern of the pro side, so the same tool could be used on either end.
Remember, this is the prototype. My actual tool that I'm using you can see in my vid here: th-cam.com/video/r-iZWjOejNc/w-d-xo.html
The best & cheapest way to do it without expensive makers tools is to put the crank in a plastic bag wrap it up to keep water out then put this package in your freezer for a few days as heat expands cold contracts
orange12v yup....did that for years...no more of that for me :)
I've done that on other saws, that's where the clam shell saws like the MS290 are easier than the pro saws...
i gotta disagree, hate the ms290 with a passion. these pro saws go together like butter, and I don't hesitate to fully tear one down anymore. but thats me :)
Great video and great effort on your part for sharing.
Only thing I could suggest is use a open end wrench.
Thanks for sharing
This is the old way, the new tools you've already seen. I was prototyping in this stage....
and I like my ratchet rather than using an open ended wrench :)
Most of those bearings can be installed by freezing them and slightly heating the case around the bearing.
Joe W yup. ...can do that too
Putting the bearing is the opposite, freeze the crank and slightly heat the bearing with a light bulb...
Joe W been there done that plenty.... my tools now do it much easier :)
I'm getting ready to do the seals in my 372...
Joe W nice.....easy job :)
Pushing that bearing down using the threads put a great deal of stress on those threads, risking stripping. At a minimum, I would freeze the crank and slightly heat the bearings before threading it down to reduce stress on that fitting.
I'll disagree. Have done this now dozens of times without stripping a rod. Have a look at some of my other vids and tools. Putting a crank in a bearing without heat or cooling is fine as long as the stresses don't tend to put lateral forces on bearings. You are welcome to heat and cool things but with my tools there is no need during installation.
@@matthewolson8875 Good to know, that crank steel must be more hardened than I thought. I have to do this same thing this weekend on my Jonsered so thanks for the update.
@@matthewwheaton5835 have a look at my other vids. It really doesn't take much torque to pull the crank into the bearing. I have used the same piece of 1/2 rod to pull bearings into cases cold for a while now...no risk of stripping. No risk of burning myself either ...no heat lol. Keep in touch! Join us live on youtube sometime!
Why don't you put a snap clamp on the middle of the connecting rod so it will not flop around.
John Clarke seems like a fine idea :)
HaHa! Good idea matt! Sure beats the crap outta what husky wants for that crankshaft tool! Good tutorial!
check out my latest vids on my crankshaft tools :)
I am a bit dense. Why not just stack washers and a sleeve, like your bearing inner race, and use the flywheel nut to pull it through?
because the flywheel nut has very minimal travel. ... very minimal when you account for how much of it you'd need to grab to not worry about busting the threads. ...and based on that minimal travel it'd take a lot of time .... but I like the way you are thinkin :) make a vid if you get it to work
btw, this is now an old video, and I have new tools :)
Matt iki somunu birbirine kaynak yaparsan pul kullanmana gerek kalmaz.
i used the translator and tried to understand what you said. I don't need a double nut on one side that's true. I could use a bolt and then I would only need one nut.....
Is that just me and only me seeing the threaded end where the flywheel is mounted as a bit warped ?
It's possible. ...could have bent during flywheel removal ...which can be a pain
Much easier to put the crankshaft in a freezer and warm the bearings with just a heat lamp or hair drier. Those small bearings will slip right on..no problem.
Clifford Tangen please check out my latest video on 394 case assembly. ...no more heat /cold for me....been there ...done that. I like my new tools :)
You can also put the bearing near a light bulb to heat it. Works very well. The crank in the freezer works well also..
Joe W no need anymore :)
I was mainly saying it to the next person that tries this..
Joe W the next person that tries this will get just as frustrated. I put plenty of cases together with heat and cold....freezer...torch...oven....etc. no more of that for me. Putting bearings in cases I sometimes do with a torch now...but that's harmless to the bearings. Pulling the cases together with the tools I have now is by far the safest and most controlled method....
I like the light bulb idea though...that's better than using a heat gun or torch
INGENIOUS! Great Video!
Don't pretend to think you know what you're going I have been watching you and I can see you don't know what you're doing
Sounds good....keep watchin!
Good video!!!!!!!!!!!!!
skirtdevil thanks!!! I'm really excited about this! !
Straight up and down? Probably not, eh....good enough for government work. Break time.
Please see some newer videos:)
But yes....works fine even if it isn't completely straight
@@matthewolson8875 I peeked at them, very helpful for me being a fairly green arborist. These saws in their random forms can become a headache if you don't get the right tools.
@@warimp saws have been a headache for folks for a long time. This channel is my personal journey to educate myself and share what I learned along the way. I've really enjoyed making the crank tools and sharing them with folks... quite the adventure but it wasn't without some growing pains lol
@@matthewolson8875 I am actually glad you did decide to do these vids. Can't tell you how many times iv asked myself, can't I make a tool to do this more the right way? And I was kinda shocked when the bearing is pressed on. Of course it would be, vehicle bearings tend to be. Makes sense, but I had considered ripping into an old saw and make a Frankenstein. Hadnt thought about pressing bearings for the piston....I would a hard a huge mess and had to run off to town
@@warimp often just takes a little ambition to get something better. :)