UNI-T UT61E+ True RMS Multimeter Review and Teardown
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 มิ.ย. 2024
- I did a thorough review and teardown of the new 22,000 count UNI-T UT61E+ multimeter. You can find this meter on Banggood at ban.ggood.vip/XGAu
High resolution teardown pictures can be found at www.kerrywong.com/2021/04/04/t...
00:00 Introduction
05:06 Overall design
07:19 Range switch
09:22 LCD display
10:00 AC Voltage/Frequency LPF measurements
12:17 DC measurement accuracy
16:15 DC range input impedance
17:23 AC+DC measurements
20:15 Ohm/continuity/diode measurement range
23:47 Frequency measurements
26:10 Current ranges
27:59 NCV measurements
29:59 hFE measurements
32:48 USB dongle
33:37 Teardown
38:51 Conclusions - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Great teardown, nice to have another opinion on the inclusion of hfe measurement, personally I have never had this function so don't miss it ! but this seems like a meter I would buy, good spec's for the price and a decent build...cheers.
@Schwalbe262 Yep, my Fluke has none of these and it serves me well...cheers.
Great review. It's an incredible hobbyist dmm. I find I tend to measure small voltage and amp numbers so the resolution is great. The acquisition time is much better than my similarly priced owon b35+ which has a horrible auto ranging sample rate time.
Great review, the chip marked ES5 is the True RMS to DC converter. I have one of these multimeters and I am quite satisfied with it, I would buy it again
Great video, and I ordered a UT61E+ after watching several reviews, such as this one. I'm not sure if they made a change since you received yours or if there was some flaw in the one you have. The one I received does not get stuck between settings. As a matter of fact, I can't even force it to sit between settings, it will snap forward or back to the proper setting.
I totally agree on the range switch on the 2709B
I just ordered one BEFORE I read this review, although I did read Dave's and a few others. I was actually about to buy the 61 before I knew the Plus existed. It was about the same price. I really respect your reviews and am grateful for your findings. I wish you had been able to test the USB, which I expect is Windows only. (Does anyone support Linux logging?)
The range switch could be improved by filing the round bits on the ends of the 4 arms into triangles so that they fit into the groves better.
Nice review Kerry. Is the shield actually aluminum or do you think it might be mu Metal?
I don't think it is mu metal.. I could be wrong though :-)
I looked it up, shielding is usually mu metal, a ferromagnetic alloy tailored specifically to shielding use - 80% Nickle 20% iron with other alloys to suit the purpose of shielding.
Didn't see this already in the comments and you probably already know, but the K/C socket on the adapter assembly is for the Type K thermocouple connector on the UT61+ series multimeters (like the UT161D) that have a temperature mode setting. I wish they gave a thermocouple sensor that had banana plugs (like the Fluke 80BK-A) or more compact Type K adapter (like the Fluke 80AK-A). The adapter assembly Uni-T provides is just too bulky for the case and too clumsy to use. I'm pretty sure the fluke-style adapter or cable will work and there are plenty of cheap clones. One of those is likely in my UT161D's future.
The adapter's center footprint maybe its for SMD Diodes & LEDs ?
Can you do a diode mode test by touching both leads together. It should show 0 volt and hopefully beep once or beep continually. This I just learned is the best way for short detection on motherboard repairs.
The Aneng you showed has almost zero input protection compared to the new 61E+, but again much cheaper. Whats missing in the new versions upgraded protection is a high current resistor, for this price there should be one to go with those MOV's etc.
Hello. Which one is the best brand and multimeter for everything. ( home, electrical and electrician users )
Thanks for sharing. 😉👌🏼
You are welcome!
Seems like a good meter, but very unfortunate about the range switch knob. I would try using a teflon-based lubricant or any other lubricant compatible with plastics to see if that would improve things. I've been using Uni-T's 181A for a few years now and it's my primary meter for pretty much all work. I really like it as an all-around meter. 60,000 counts, fast auto-ranging, instant continuity beep, very high contrast display and extremely responsive bar graph (response time of the color TFT LCD is faster than segmented or B&W LCDs, which helps a lot), I like the soft power button because you won't wear out the range switch anywhere nearly as fast - and incidentally, the range switch feels extremely high quality. It's excellent for logging, and you can disable the LCD backlight while logging which gives you long battery life (days). Rechargeable Li-ion battery is very nice. From a usability perspective, I prefer this meter over anything on the market, including all of the high-end Flukes. The only thing that I'd recommend to any serious engineers/hobbyists is to get better precision probes. My choice is Pomona's 6341 kit. Reasonably priced, includes all kinds of useful tips. Made in the USA.
Yeah, the range switch is not my favorite for sure. The plastic arm mechanism does not have enough tension and therefore feels sluggish. In terms of probes, I also like the Probe Master ones, the cables are extremely flexible and the tips are sharp and gold plated.
The range switch doesn't have that problem on my one. I bought it two days back. Maybe this is a unique problem to this particular unit that Kerry got.
The non contact voltage detection could be improved by solding a short piece of wire or copper tape to the metal piece on the board.
Nice!
On my UTI UT61E+, when the dial is turned to "AC-DC V=" the selection would drop on "DC" by default. I accidentally measure the 120V AC with that "DC" selection. I thought that would burn the fuse or killed the UT61E+. But it didn't and the AC measurement worked fine.
Kerry, I think the K and C socket on the adapter may be for a temp probe. It looks to be that format. I don’t have one to check. Nice tear down. Thanks
Thanks Brian. I had thought the same thing, but doesn't seem there's any connectors inside and my thermal couples don't fit into that socket either. Anyway, they might have shared the adaptor for many products perhaps? Thanks again.
@@KerryWongBlog if it is spaced correctly then maybe the holes were put in the mold for a later upgrade. I’m stabbing in the dark now.
You're right. This socket is for the K-type temperature probe. It is used in 161D. This can be found in the manual on page 21.
I found that range selection is not working when measuring caps, setting the range in advance could make measurement much faster for big caps.
I like their products. I have a UT210D.
Agreed. UNI-T is a relatively well known company and from what I have seen their product quality is pretty good.
❤❤çok güzel cihaz ürünü çok beğendim kullanışlı herkese uygun digital
Actually you can turn on the back light instead of using a pc of battery to lift up the device for better viewing angle.
Is this selector switch able to withstand higher usage? Do you have to lubricate this selector switch over time? I'm afraid that later it will start to make bad contact. Thanks.
I haven't had any issue with it so far.
DO You think UT61E is comparable to ut61e+? is there any sense buying ut61e over 61e+ now?
I just got the Uni-T UT61D+
When I saw that it has USB I thought it was be like my old Mastech that has a mini USB port.
But it has a optical type USB connection.
I too use Linux and I use a software called "TestController" which I got from EEVBlog forums.
This software works fine with my Mastech as the USB connection mounts to /dev/ttyUSB0 and I just use ttyUSB0 in Test Controller to point to the address.
But with the Uni-T UT61D+ it does not work.
The UART adapter gets detected fine under devhid1, hidraw7
So would assume that is the address or at least one of them is
The Uni-T UT61D+ says it is a 20A capable.
But the fuse is only a 10A and the PCB shows 10A.
Wondering how it can be 20A if the fuses are 10A and the PCB mentions to use a 10A.
Great review! Does anyone know if one can use this meter with 4 AAA NiMH rechargeable batteries ? Or does it require Alkaline batteries to get sufficient voltage?
Yes, 4 AAA NiMH tested (Eneloop).
@@XTechnik_szm Thanks a bunch!!! :)
The high voltage LED should either stay on longer (maybe, 10 seconds) or be kept on
Agreed.
max real frequency about ?
Hello bro, I get same multimeter befor 2 day and I have some problems. The multimeter had batteries installed. When I switch it on and try to muve between measurement options I get signal for low battery and multimeter get auto switch off. So I think this battery's its probably already finish and put new ones. Continue test of device and boom again low battery and auto switch off until I muve between measuring operations.. I checked the battery slot, noticed that one of the battery contact it's not like other a bit deformed in different way. But I think it's still oky to make good contact. I use device today and don't have such problem.. But I don't know what to do I have option to back it and get new one.. What u will advise me?
Use Duracell coppertop AAA battery
33:08 try a different USB port. Or even plugging it in via a (respectable chipset) USB Hub.
From the Command Line (Because the Command Line rocks!)
run dmesg -wHTlinfo and watch while you plug it in.
Yeah, I tried a different USB port it doesn't even recognize the USB dongle. On my USB hub it recognized the dongle but got the “Cannot enable. Maybe the USB cable is bad?" error message. I ran into similar issues with a CP2103 based chip on my computer before. Will definitely take another look on another machine.
I have received this unit today. It does not have the range switch issue. Look like they have resolved it.
I don't have that issue on my unit either.
Great Video but...Yes, I bought it, it is very accurate with 22000 counts. Still, I wouldn't buy it again. Firstly, the CE mark is missing and what really annoys me is that there isn't even a bag for it. By the way, the e model lacks a temperature measurement. I could live with that. But now everything is just in cheap packaging. A German description is a wishful thought, but there is also a lousy English one. Nevertheless, for me, English is a foreign language and not as common as Italian, French or German.
Hi everyohe, someone knows if this meter have auto power off and if is posible to disable?
I been thinking to buy one for datalogging.
Best Regards.
Yes, it has auto power off. If you want to disable it, hold the SELECT button and power on, you will hear it beeps four times and the timer symbol next to the AUTO display disappears which confirms the auto power off is disabled.
@@KerryWongBlog Thanks so Much.
this thing used to be nearly 70USD.... they are making these harder to buy considering the value coming dangerously close to Brymen Multimeters
Hi i have this and UT133A - 133 gives 3,9V ind diod test (2x AAA- rechargable 1,2) and ut61e+ gives 2,9V (4x AAA - 1,2V same kind of batts)
I like continuity at 133 much more, its just lightning.
Its personal opinion, but i prefer original leads on 61e+, i have silicone ones, but i realy dont like how much soft they are, they are like live, still tungling. Silicone is nice when you soldering lot or working at north pole, but much more conveniet i found golden tips than silicon isnulation.
With my leads i got 0,02ohms and i its very nice result :)
And NCV is bad joke if you compare it against 133a - there its realy usefull and you can find cables in walls quite precisely.
Have a ncie day
Btw 61e+ is not able to measure 20Amps, its has only 10Amps fuse. Who knows why, maybe false advertisement.
The 10Amp fuse can handle 20Amps in a short period of time and UNI-T uses this fact the allow higher current measurement than the rated current of the fuse.
@@KerryWongBlog How much more precise it is ? Is it like 10-15+ percents more precise against 20Amp fuse ? Never heard about this trickery with fuses
you don't know what you are saying as uni-t does not make a UT133A
@@pagepro211 Only you from whole youtube saying that - so who have no idea about stuff ?. In next message i will send you fresh photo of uT 133A
thanks.. noted,,, over 40MHz is a farce
which is better to buy ut61e+ or ut 191t?
A DC current measurement problem has been detected. When measuring current in the circuit (mA) in the range from 220 mA to 300 mA, the multimeter does not show overload (OL), but shows 220 mA at a current of 300 mA. At the same current, when switching to mode (A), the multimeter shows 0.3 A (300 mA), which is correct. Briefly: after 220 mA it does not show an overload, but shows 220 mA, despite the fact that the current is already greater. And even up to 200 mA there is a difference in readings between the mA and A modes on average 3.5 mA.
I just tested this on my UT61E+, I got the OL as soon as the current was above 220mA in mA mode. Would be good if someone else has the meter can do similar test and confirm. It could be a defect in your meter.
@@KerryWongBlog , I also noticed that on the rectangular chip SF2613B, legs 12 and 13 are soldered. There is a drop of solder. What does this mean?
@@Igor_user the chip marked with 2613 is the LCD controller. Pin 13 is NC, pin 12 is VSS so it doesn't matter if pin 12 and pin 13 are bridged.
@@KerryWongBlog , When measuring the current, when it did not show an overload, it was a glitch. I had to turn the multimeter off and on, and I just switched the limits. But, when measuring direct current in mA and A (20 A) modes, there is a difference in readings at one current value. For example, in milliamp mode, 150 mA is measured and without changing the current, switch the limit and the probe to amperes, it will show 0.16 A. Make the current a load, or if it is a PSU, then with current regulation disabled. Is this normal for this multimeter?
30:08 I don't understand what you mean by "people who do this this kind of measurement typically do not do any transistor measurement at all".
I meant to say people do measurements use this class of meters as this is considered a semi professional multimeter. Nowadays, even hobbyists might not need to use transistors, unless they are working with analog circuitry.
You said fuses are not cheap. Maybe not in the US but in the UK BS1362 fuses used in this are meter are very cheap because they're used in all our plugs. A pack of 10 fuses are less than £2.
That tripod mount should be a standard on all multimeters! How often have I fiddled around trying to prop up a meter at a good angle and distance, with a cheap mini-tripod that would be trivial
i have the ut61d+ and continuity mode acts bit strange than 61e+. 61d+ first indicates red light with instant buzz then it indicates green light with long buzz and i don't know why
I just tested this with my UT61D+
The LED lights up red when the reading on the screen is well above 0.
I've read somewhere that the continuity issue with the UT61B+/D+ is a firmware bug that UNI-T never corrected even in recent batches. Fortunately the UT61E+ doesn't have that bug in continuity mode.
How is it that it can measure a Max of 20 Amps when the large fuse is only at 10 Amps?
It's relying on the fact that typical fuses can hold up for at least tens of seconds to a few minutes at twice the rated current.
Hello sir... Im planning to upgrade my old cheap DMM between model UT61B+ and UT61E+. But their price difference are twice and im thinking if its worth it to get the expensive ones? .im just a elect hobbyist and some skills and knowledge through experiences.. thanks a lot... Godbless
Really depends on what you do with the meter. the 61B is a 6000 counts meter I believe whereas 61E is 22,000 counts.
@@KerryWongBlogthanks for the reply sir.ive think i dont need anything above 6000 counts.im ordering my first UNI T 61B dmm now. Godbless you
I finally pulled the trigger and ordered the meter from Amazon on sale. Regular price is almost 200cad with tax but I got it for 140. I couldn't handle my owon anymore when checking resistors.
For resistance measurement speed alone, I think you will like it.
@@KerryWongBlog that's the main reason I ordered it. Great videos on it as well. Especially since the aneng 870 is pretty much 100 cad on Amazon here in cananda and has basically no protection. The 61 plus will get the honor of getting my probe masters but the included ones seem to latch just as fast. I have a set of cables from some off brand called Bionso and they are great for 70cad on Amazon. It's a full set with all the different tip types and such that imo are much better than the set the 87v come with.
@@jstro-hobbytech I just ordered one for $103Cdn from Ali...
@@barrybogart5436 cool. Proper discount after the 7 months since my post haha. I'm tempted to buy thr non plus model and do the backlight mod. It looks better. Great meter though. I put some probemasters on mine but the gold ones are just as good after you wipe em with ipa. Wanna buy a hantek dso5102p oscilloscope for 200?
@@jstro-hobbytech I already have an old Hantek 40mHz DSO but recently got an Owon HDS272S handheld scope/DMM/AWG. And I have an HP 1740A - the one Dave Jones took three shows to fix!
I like how you’ve picked up the phrase “bang on” from a certain Australian man..
Does Issy measure the tapered TV Does Issy measure the tapered TV
New subscriber here. Pls test battery life. I have the 61d+ model. It seems to eat up the battery fast. Im using 1100ma nimh 1.2v cells
Thanks for subscribing! The current draw for the 61E+ is around 10 mA and for Aneng, it's much lower at 1.6 mA or so. So in this case Aneng has huge advantage as it uses 2 AA batteries versus the 4 AAA used in 61E+.
Hola! Algo fundamental que te falto informar es que no genera el resultado de las sumas de las raíz cuadrada de la sumatoria entre ac+dc, las muestra por separado lo que es totalmente una miseria ya que el sistema tendría que sacar los cálculos y no realizarlos manualmente. Desde esa funcion pasando por los filtros pasabajos todo es un adorno. En definitiva digo que el que tiene el UT 61 no compre este modelo, no van a existir mejorias. Si pueden compren algo de mas valor que si realize las tareas con los calculos a representarse. Obvio que por tan poco dinero no se puede esperar mucho, pero en otros lugares como en mi pais Argentina sale mucha guita por la porqueria de equipo que es. En esa marca las funciones son realizadas en un modelo como el ut71 AC+DC en cualquiera de sus modelos. Saludos
Ingles por favor! ;-)
Software is for Windows only
C'mon UNI-T. 34:20 School boy error? UNI-T fits a 10A fuse but rates the meter for 20A
Well, UNI-T knows a typical 10A fuse can handle 20A for at least a short amount of time. Not a sound design for sure.
Compromise between blowing up the meter or blowing up fuses, and I would guess there in the instructions there is a 30 second limit on currents over 10A, which means the fuse is actually being used within it's design envelope, as almost all of them will survive 20A for a minute before failure. Hopefully they do include a single spare pack of the fuses with the meter, or offer as a separate product a 10 pack of fuses, 5 of each range to their specs, at a low price.
To have it blow fast on a short it will need to fail before the PCB, the current shunt or the sockets and the leads have a chance to overheat, so 10A is a pretty good compromise, as 20A fuses are typically going to need 80-100A to blow within 3 seconds, and by that time the copper traces on the board, despite all that via stitching, will have delaminated and be glowing red hot, along with the current shunt. 10A fuse will typically let go at around 3 seconds with 40A flowing, and likely the firmware is designed to beep on overrange on the current ranges.
@@SeanBZA Your verbose answer is correct.
@@SeanBZA It wouldn't be easier to use a clamp meter, I think up to 2 amps is fine above that a clamp meter does a much better and safer job.🤔
Thanks review but price is 50 more then AliExpress
Great! Obviously the cheaper you can get it the better!
Haha, I didn't know, the adapter contacts for SMD resistors/capacitors is a fake. WTF! Sorry, UNI-T, you're not going to get my money anymore. Selling me completely non working or semi working features is a nothing less than pure scam.
Спасибо за обзор.
Ужасный прибор. Управление и алгоритмы делали те, кто понятия не имеет, как подобные приборы эксплуатируются. Чистый Китай. Должно быть эффектно! А эффективно ли... то уже не важно.
Внутри несомненный шаг вперед. Намного качественней и надежней.
Цена значения не имеет. Даже за 30$ такое не купил бы себе. Нервы и удобство стоят намного дороже.
мда, реально фейл. С первого взгляда выглядит норм, а когда углубляешься, то понимаешь - бутафория полная. Даже площадки для измерения смд резисторов/кондеров на адаптере как оказалось - фейк.