Was able to get my head gasket all fixed up due to your videos - no issues after 3 months . Thanks so much for all your details and time to put this together 👍👍
I was going to buy a king ranch powerstroke but I’m a DIYer and when I saw the cab needed to be removed I saw a few of your videos on the cummins and I’m in love now.
Excellant video, including all torque specs would be helpful, also removing the passenger side fenderwell made access to the 4 rear exhaust bolts much easier. also putting an old pillow on top of the motor and laying on top made it easier to reach behind the head and remove the 17 mm fuel banjo bolt on the back of the head. And one last thing the OEM Cummins head gasket is not marked Top or Bottom but the number go up so you can read them and the design of the dowel pins only allows you to install it correctly the pin in the back is slightly larger than the front pin. Thanks!
Just want to say thanks for doing the video! I’m 52 years old and have always worked on gas motors. I have owned several 5.9 cummins trucks in the past and bought my 2012 two years ago. It started bubbling in the overflow jug about two weeks ago and I thought it was the rad cap. Replaced it same thing. I took it and ran it hard, pulled over and checked the overflow and it was full and bubbling out. Came back home watched your video and started tearing her down. Once I had the head off I checked the gasket and it looked fine, no cracks and no rusted places. I got worried thinking it maybe cracked somewhere. Took it to the machine shop where the pressure tested and resurfaced. When I picked it up they told me it was warped and to make sure I used studs when installing it. Great video! Taking it off was a breeze. On to the install video.
Walked me right through it man, thanks! Im stoked that I don’t have to actually remove the turbo and manifold. I’ll finish yanking the head in the morning and off to the machine shop she goes!
Just got the bottom clip off by running para cord through it from the passenger tire side. First on the clip to get one side off. Then ran it back though the hole from that side. Yanked it off pretty quick. Thanks for the video. Great information.
Awesome video, thank you. My 2010 6.7 is using coolant, not sure yet if its the head gasket. I haven't been driving it much lately so I need to do some diagnosing. This last week I just rebuilt the whole front end, steering, hubs, ball joints, u-joints, trans service, etc. 122K. I deleted everything when it had 20K. Your video gives me confidence that I can do the head gasket myself. Thanks!
Great video man .Will definitely save me some time . Apparently that bracket behind injector line #6 is to protect the passengers from high pressure fuel in case of an accident.
I can’t thank you enough, the video outlined and highlighted everything that needed to be watched out for, I’m hoping most of the info from the video transfers over to a 2008 1/2 6.7.
I want to give you . My full tanks to you. Brother ,for the espetial TIME INSTRUCCTION on this job 6.7 cummins. And i beleive ,its NOT only one . From the ones we try to doe this job --> on your own way. Who RECEIVED THE GREAT FINAL PROCCESS , LIKE YOU. i,m very very full satisfied with your experience to doe this work with strong Quality.. your hope was , complette power full ON MY FAITH. i did the job and YES the dodge ram 3500 - 6.7 cummins STAR exactly like you expect to see on everyones who trust you. AND I WOULD LIKE TO SAY .. all honor is to THE KING OF HEAVEN .
i have a 12 leaking oil pass side back of the head. im watching this pre doing it. and im gunna watch it again. im thinking its a blown head gasket on the oil passage side at the back. anyways this is excellent im gunna watch the install and learn as much as i can about this prior to doing this so that there wont be any supprises.
Was very helpful I'm looking forward to doing mine now..... thank you.....I'm also having a battery draining problem that I can figure out....any info on that would help out also....thanks again
I’m struggling with the pipe that goes across the bottom studs of the exhaust manifold. I have it unbolted everywhere but no matter what I do it won’t pop off the stud. Do you guys unhook the back line that appears to go to the heater core? It seems like it won’t come off because it is pressed right against the turbo.
If you remove right inner fender, you would gain pretty nice access to the back bolts of exhaust manifold. When I replaced manifold gaskets, i used it, even with air gun, oh wait, 2500 and 3500 any different in there?
Excellent presentation, I see that some shops pull the cab off to work on Diesel engines. Why do they pull the cabs, and is it more cost effective to pull the cabs vs not pulling the cab?
Thanks! On some trucks you have to pull the cab off in order to get at all the bolts and have enough room to pull the head bolts out. An example of this would be a 6.4 powerstroke. On a Cummins like in the video you could pull the cab but it’s easy enough that no one really pulls the cab for a head gasket job. Then if you look at a duramax engine, it is possible to change it in the engine without pulling the cab but some guys prefer to pull the cab to make their life easier. It is about the same labor times either way. You can pull the cab which takes longer but then you can disassemble the engine super quick when it’s out of your way, or you can leave the cab on and just take longer getting the engine apart. Hope that kind of made sense for ya!
On start up I noticed a white smoke on the pipe I assumed moisture I noticed it around 140k at 195k I did a delete and at 200k I noticed I left a bolt loose on the front of the exhaust manifold and there was bubble coming out of that flange and at the turbo flange it was mild and stops after 30 seconds the only thing I can think of is a leaky head gasket ... The job doesn't look to bad just tedious but I can deal with that since the job is pretty pricey labor wise so I figure head studs and at 200k nee injectors while in there . At least it's an inline 6 the Cummins had to be the easiest to do this out of the 3 hd trucks .
I know this really is not that hard of a job but when i was working allot i unfortunately let my dad handle witch shop to take it to. he took it to a dealer they did everything and a week later it started overheating again. i don't believe its a cracked head really only overheated under power, they didn't have the head machined and it had 230k miles. sent it back to them hopefully i can make them foot the bill ( i also had arp studs installed the first time so hopefully it was because it was not done correctly the first time if the head is good im going to do re torques.
I’m thinking of pulling the head to get a look at the valves and piston surface because after getting my turbo rebuilt and installed, I was confirming that I had boost in town and the grid heater bolt got sucked into I assume cyl 6 (after removing the assembly it’s confirmed MIA) How screwed am I and should I just put that effort into replacing the engine?
@@darkirondiesel The bolt is embedded into piston #6 under an exhaust valve that also got bent and the valve seat took a whooping as well. With the damage to top of the piston.. should I change it, or just remove the embedded bolt and run it after fixing the valves/head? What would you do?
they are saying my head gasket is bad on my 09 6.7 but there isnt any blow by, oil in the coolant nor coolant in the oil. What is your thoughts on it being bad. If the radiator is full and coolant tank is propper it will push coolant out until the radiator is about a 1/3 low. Thanks Tom, If you want my number let me know if you want to chat. Just dont want to pay the guy 6500 if thats not what it is.
I’m going to be using both your videos on this to do this job myself. I have a question though. Do you have to drain the coolant completely out of the truck before you start?
I guess it could work, but then you would have to unbolt the turbo from it, or else unbolt the exhaust from the turbo, and all the oil/coolant lines on the turbo and pull it all out together, but in my opinion the way I did it is the easiest and makes the most sense. Remember you will still have to unbolt the coolant line bracket from the bottom rear exhaust manifold stud.
Steve moody Hey I’m getting to change out my cylinder head cover off because the shop that did some work to my truck and they stripped a couple of nut’s that hold down my crankcase breather cover down and I could not clear my perform service lite, I need to know how much torque is needed to hold down the cylinder head cover,or where can I go to find this info Thanks.
The machine shop that resurfaced my head also strips it right down and reassembles with new hardware so I’m assuming the valves were relapped if they needed it. It for sure got new guides/seals
Do u think i need to Resurfaced head if im just going to put a gasket ad arp studes the truck didn't over heat or anything just going to replace piston rings for excessive blowby and add studs
I would 100% recommend getting the head resurfaced and pressure tested. If you are going through all the work to do piston rings and head gasket etc you might as well do it right and get the head done as well.
He doesn't advocate disassembling the injectors and if you are like me you wanted to clean up everything while your head is at the machine shop. I highly suggest that you don't dissasemble fuel injectors, they will never work correctly again unless you take them to a professional injector rebuilder. Just use some carb cleaner and a wire brush and clean the tips thouroughly. The holes on the tip of the injector are extemely small and even with my camera magnification I could barely see them. If you want them cleaned send them in to a professional injector cleaning company it will cost $300-400 but that is much cheaper than replacing injectors.
Honestly I love it haha it was only $750 CAD and I’ve had it for like 4 years now. Haven’t had a single issue with it. The drawers all lock too, so when you open it you slide a tab over with your finger and it unlatches. Super handy for rolling the box around not having the drawers slide open on you.
This is my first deisel I am thinking it is the head gasket I am getting no heat in the cab have replaced T-stat flushed the coolant system do you think this is the problem if it is I will using you videos to do the job thanks
No heat in the cab is a sign of a failed head gasket, but you could also have a plugged heater core. Is your cooling system pressuring up? Because that’s another good indicator of headgasket.
@@darkirondiesel I have an appointment to get it checked the more I thought about it I was like I think I am just going to have it done by professionals
Without headstuds installed, Yes. Its mostly to do with the restrictive nature of the vgt turbo driving pressure up and the smaller surface area between cylinder bores (smaller then the 5.9)
Dark iron diesel.. Question. I have a 2011 dodge ram 3500 3 time head gasket has blown. Its been studded I spoke to a diesel mechanic that builds pulley trucks in Kentucky. He was saying the only way they were able to keep them from blowing is to fire ring the head.. Whats your thoughts 🤔
I’d have to look back to see what I purchased. But basically I buy a kit that comes with all the stuff you need to do the head gasket including the head gasket itself. Only thing you have to buy is the head studs separately, and the fuel filter/oil filter etc
It’s amazing how often you lift the hood of a well appointed truck to a filthy engine🤷♂️🤷♂️ I would have cleaned the engine bay before disassembly. Just sayin’.
@@darkirondiesel ..I've done the LB7's LML's and the LMM's.. I've done the 6.7's aswell and I gotta say it's much much easier when the front clips are off.. gives you so much room too see, and you can pull the entire head straight forward instead of wrestling with it.. especially if you got to reach behind the head.. you don't want to be kneeling on the radiator.. it's easier if your standing infront of the engine block..
Hello I see your videos they are really interesting, I have 2017 ram 3500 6.7 when I bought it ,it had 91k miles I did 25k miles and recently it started to leak coolant I can’t find grime where , every 300 miles I needs to add half gallon coolant. It has only coolant leak the rest works great no overheat, temperature always stays at 195F no engine light nothing the truck works great.I asked local mechanic and they said that it need head gasket replacement so I don’t know how to check to be sure that it is really head gasket do you have any recommendations?
Was able to get my head gasket all fixed up due to your videos - no issues after 3 months . Thanks so much for all your details and time to put this together 👍👍
I was going to buy a king ranch powerstroke but I’m a DIYer and when I saw the cab needed to be removed I saw a few of your videos on the cummins and I’m in love now.
Excellant video, including all torque specs would be helpful, also removing the passenger side fenderwell made access to the 4 rear exhaust bolts much easier. also putting an old pillow on top of the motor and laying on top made it easier to reach behind the head and remove the 17 mm fuel banjo bolt on the back of the head. And one last thing the OEM Cummins head gasket is not marked Top or Bottom but the number go up so you can read them and the design of the dowel pins only allows you to install it correctly the pin in the back is slightly larger than the front pin. Thanks!
Just want to say thanks for doing the video! I’m 52 years old and have always worked on gas motors. I have owned several 5.9 cummins trucks in the past and bought my 2012 two years ago. It started bubbling in the overflow jug about two weeks ago and I thought it was the rad cap. Replaced it same thing. I took it and ran it hard, pulled over and checked the overflow and it was full and bubbling out. Came back home watched your video and started tearing her down. Once I had the head off I checked the gasket and it looked fine, no cracks and no rusted places. I got worried thinking it maybe cracked somewhere. Took it to the machine shop where the pressure tested and resurfaced. When I picked it up they told me it was warped and to make sure I used studs when installing it. Great video! Taking it off was a breeze. On to the install video.
That’s awesome to hear, this is exactly why I made the video!
I had the exact same problem. I tried to stud first, but no dice. Head coming off later today.
Walked me right through it man, thanks! Im stoked that I don’t have to actually remove the turbo and manifold. I’ll finish yanking the head in the morning and off to the machine shop she goes!
Just got the bottom clip off by running para cord through it from the passenger tire side. First on the clip to get one side off. Then ran it back though the hole from that side. Yanked it off pretty quick. Thanks for the video. Great information.
That is an awesome idea! I’m going to remember this
Awesome video, thank you. My 2010 6.7 is using coolant, not sure yet if its the head gasket. I haven't been driving it much lately so I need to do some diagnosing. This last week I just rebuilt the whole front end, steering, hubs, ball joints, u-joints, trans service, etc. 122K. I deleted everything when it had 20K. Your video gives me confidence that I can do the head gasket myself. Thanks!
You’re welcome! Thanks for the support!
Great video! In the middle of a 2012 5500 6.7 head gasket job. Many great pointers and things to think about when doing this. Thanks, from Alaska!
Thanks man I couldn’t figure out how to pull the back push rods
Thanks for the video I’ll be pulling the head off of my 2011 on Wednesday to do this same thing! Thank you very much.
Great video man .Will definitely save me some time . Apparently that bracket behind injector line #6 is to protect the passengers from high pressure fuel in case of an accident.
Thank you Thank you Thank you. One of the best I've seen so far.
Man those clips on the exhaust manifold best thing I’ve figured out is 18” Chanel’s locks pliers and rip and pull they come off pretty quick.
Thanks for the advice man. They can be a real pain in the ass
I can’t thank you enough, the video outlined and highlighted everything that needed to be watched out for, I’m hoping most of the info from the video transfers over to a 2008 1/2 6.7.
You’re welcome! Yes the procedure should be pretty much identical for your truck!
Bad ass video couldn't have done my nearly as quick without it thank you
Glad I could help!
I don't even own a 6.7 but yet I enjoy watching this
Want one that needs a gasket lol
Your videos are great! Thanks for all the great info!
Thanks sir form India
I want to give you . My full tanks to you. Brother ,for the espetial TIME INSTRUCCTION on this job 6.7 cummins. And i beleive ,its NOT only one . From the ones we try to doe this job --> on your own way. Who RECEIVED THE GREAT FINAL PROCCESS , LIKE YOU. i,m very very full satisfied with your experience to doe this work with strong Quality.. your hope was , complette power full ON MY FAITH. i did the job and YES the dodge ram 3500 - 6.7 cummins STAR exactly like you expect to see on everyones who trust you. AND I WOULD LIKE TO SAY .. all honor is to THE KING OF HEAVEN .
Solid walk thru bud!
i have a 12 leaking oil pass side back of the head. im watching this pre doing it. and im gunna watch it again. im thinking its a blown head gasket on the oil passage side at the back. anyways this is excellent im gunna watch the install and learn as much as i can about this prior to doing this so that there wont be any supprises.
Looks like that brake fluid is actually fairly clean.
I always take my vehicle down to the car wash and wash the engine off before I start working on it it makes it so much better
Your very good & thank I cause I would have been lil lost with mine, thx bud from south Fl!
I do this at work. Why am I watching this?
😂
Keep it up great work . Thanks from pakistan
Awesome video,,i own a 2007 dodge dually with 6.7,it has 175k all original,,need to replace heater core.
Great instructional video.
You could have added. When you take the rockers off. To be careful with the cups , they can fall off the tip of the rocker.
Was very helpful I'm looking forward to doing mine now..... thank you.....I'm also having a battery draining problem that I can figure out....any info on that would help out also....thanks again
Should have mentioned that it’s a good time to check the “death bolt” on the grid heater lol
Thank you so much for this video
Awesome video thanks for sharing
I’m struggling with the pipe that goes across the bottom studs of the exhaust manifold. I have it unbolted everywhere but no matter what I do it won’t pop off the stud. Do you guys unhook the back line that appears to go to the heater core? It seems like it won’t come off because it is pressed right against the turbo.
Why don't you mill block as well ? How do you know other then checking for a warp that it's not damaged ?
If you remove right inner fender, you would gain pretty nice access to the back bolts of exhaust manifold. When I replaced manifold gaskets, i used it, even with air gun, oh wait, 2500 and 3500 any different in there?
I really dont mind the 6.7 it is easy to work on.
How many actual shop labor hours does this generally take?
Do you have video how you clean block surface before installing head?
Ya it’s on the next video (part 2 install) should be a link in this videos description
How do you get the fuel line off the back of the head against the fire wall
Excellent presentation, I see that some shops pull the cab off to work on Diesel engines. Why do they pull the cabs, and is it more cost effective to pull the cabs vs not pulling the cab?
Thanks! On some trucks you have to pull the cab off in order to get at all the bolts and have enough room to pull the head bolts out. An example of this would be a 6.4 powerstroke. On a Cummins like in the video you could pull the cab but it’s easy enough that no one really pulls the cab for a head gasket job. Then if you look at a duramax engine, it is possible to change it in the engine without pulling the cab but some guys prefer to pull the cab to make their life easier. It is about the same labor times either way. You can pull the cab which takes longer but then you can disassemble the engine super quick when it’s out of your way, or you can leave the cab on and just take longer getting the engine apart. Hope that kind of made sense for ya!
I wish you would have shown the failed part (gasket).
On start up I noticed a white smoke on the pipe I assumed moisture I noticed it around 140k at 195k I did a delete and at 200k I noticed I left a bolt loose on the front of the exhaust manifold and there was bubble coming out of that flange and at the turbo flange it was mild and stops after 30 seconds the only thing I can think of is a leaky head gasket ... The job doesn't look to bad just tedious but I can deal with that since the job is pretty pricey labor wise so I figure head studs and at 200k nee injectors while in there . At least it's an inline 6 the Cummins had to be the easiest to do this out of the 3 hd trucks .
I know this really is not that hard of a job but when i was working allot i unfortunately let my dad handle witch shop to take it to. he took it to a dealer they did everything and a week later it started overheating again. i don't believe its a cracked head really only overheated under power, they didn't have the head machined and it had 230k miles. sent it back to them hopefully i can make them foot the bill ( i also had arp studs installed the first time so hopefully it was because it was not done correctly the first time if the head is good im going to do re torques.
The exact same problem
Doesn’t matter where the injector harness goes, they’re reverse polarity.
I’m thinking of pulling the head to get a look at the valves and piston surface because after getting my turbo rebuilt and installed, I was confirming that I had boost in town and the grid heater bolt got sucked into I assume cyl 6 (after removing the assembly it’s confirmed MIA) How screwed am I and should I just put that effort into replacing the engine?
Tough to say. I’d probably pull the head and have a look. It only takes a couple hours to pull it
@@darkirondiesel The bolt is embedded into piston #6 under an exhaust valve that also got bent and the valve seat took a whooping as well. With the damage to top of the piston.. should I change it, or just remove the embedded bolt and run it after fixing the valves/head? What would you do?
@@darkirondiesel I set my pfp to a pic of the piston so it gives you an idea of what I’m working with lol
they are saying my head gasket is bad on my 09 6.7 but there isnt any blow by, oil in the coolant nor coolant in the oil. What is your thoughts on it being bad. If the radiator is full and coolant tank is propper it will push coolant out until the radiator is about a 1/3 low. Thanks Tom, If you want my number let me know if you want to chat. Just dont want to pay the guy 6500 if thats not what it is.
Is that a 6.7l exhaust manifold on your 5.9l?
I was going to do the same thing with an BD kit including non waste gate turbo.
any know the size of the fuel line bolt on the back of the head ?
Awesome thx
Didn’t see removed the camshaft
You don’t have to remove the camshaft to do a head gasket
I’m going to be using both your videos on this to do this job myself. I have a question though. Do you have to drain the coolant completely out of the truck before you start?
Ya just pull the plug and drain the rad.
@@darkirondiesel I’m getting my injectors tested as well. Would I still have to make sure I put my injectors back in the exact order?
I think I might have left the exhaust manifold on and just pull the whole thing out at the same time! Just say'n...Will it work?
I guess it could work, but then you would have to unbolt the turbo from it, or else unbolt the exhaust from the turbo, and all the oil/coolant lines on the turbo and pull it all out together, but in my opinion the way I did it is the easiest and makes the most sense. Remember you will still have to unbolt the coolant line bracket from the bottom rear exhaust manifold stud.
@@darkirondiesel 10/4
Steve moody
Hey I’m getting to change out my cylinder head cover off because the shop that did some work to my truck and they stripped a couple of nut’s that hold down my crankcase breather cover down and I could not clear my perform service lite, I need to know how much torque is needed to hold down the cylinder head cover,or where can I go to find this info
Thanks.
I find all my torque specs on google
Did your relap the valves or replace valve seals getting ready to do my 08 and it only has 198k on it what would you recommend
The machine shop that resurfaced my head also strips it right down and reassembles with new hardware so I’m assuming the valves were relapped if they needed it. It for sure got new guides/seals
Do u think i need to Resurfaced head if im just going to put a gasket ad arp studes the truck didn't over heat or anything just going to replace piston rings for excessive blowby and add studs
I would 100% recommend getting the head resurfaced and pressure tested. If you are going through all the work to do piston rings and head gasket etc you might as well do it right and get the head done as well.
@@darkirondiesel thanks a lot i appreciate the information and great video
He doesn't advocate disassembling the injectors and if you are like me you wanted to clean up everything while your head is at the machine shop. I highly suggest that you don't dissasemble fuel injectors, they will never work correctly again unless you take them to a professional injector rebuilder. Just use some carb cleaner and a wire brush and clean the tips thouroughly. The holes on the tip of the injector are extemely small and even with my camera magnification I could barely see them. If you want them cleaned send them in to a professional injector cleaning company it will cost $300-400 but that is much cheaper than replacing injectors.
How do you like that Kirkland Toolbox? Had no idea they made toolboxes lol review video on it would be cool
Honestly I love it haha it was only $750 CAD and I’ve had it for like 4 years now. Haven’t had a single issue with it. The drawers all lock too, so when you open it you slide a tab over with your finger and it unlatches. Super handy for rolling the box around not having the drawers slide open on you.
I’ve got one of those boxes too. It’s great for the money!
This is my first deisel I am thinking it is the head gasket I am getting no heat in the cab have replaced T-stat flushed the coolant system do you think this is the problem if it is I will using you videos to do the job thanks
No heat in the cab is a sign of a failed head gasket, but you could also have a plugged heater core. Is your cooling system pressuring up? Because that’s another good indicator of headgasket.
@@darkirondiesel flushed it out
Then ya there’s a good chance your headgasket is gone
@@darkirondiesel I have an appointment to get it checked the more I thought about it I was like I think I am just going to have it done by professionals
Your videos are great with pin point direction
Do these diesel go through headgaskets frequently? Cheers from Calgary
Without headstuds installed, Yes. Its mostly to do with the restrictive nature of the vgt turbo driving pressure up and the smaller surface area between cylinder bores (smaller then the 5.9)
Total time how long you think it took to remove the head?
About 4 hours to remove the head
Dark iron diesel..
Question. I have a 2011 dodge ram 3500 3 time head gasket has blown.
Its been studded I spoke to a diesel mechanic that builds pulley trucks in Kentucky.
He was saying the only way they were able to keep them from blowing is to fire ring the head..
Whats your thoughts 🤔
Is the truck tuned up?@@teerottie
Which kit did you purchase
I’d have to look back to see what I purchased. But basically I buy a kit that comes with all the stuff you need to do the head gasket including the head gasket itself. Only thing you have to buy is the head studs separately, and the fuel filter/oil filter etc
Do you ha a shop and where are you located
I can see why most people pull the cab when working on these things..
Actually almost no one pulls a cab to work on a Cummins, they have tons of room compared to duramax and powerstroke engine.
Song at 4:05? Anyone know?
Viva la viva cold play
👍💪
It’s amazing how often you lift the hood of a well appointed truck to a filthy engine🤷♂️🤷♂️ I would have cleaned the engine bay before disassembly. Just sayin’.
You should have taken apart the whole front clip of the truck.. would have been a while lot easier to work on the truck..
After doing head gaskets on a few duramaxs in cab without removing the front clip the Cummins is child’s play haha
@@darkirondiesel ..I've done the LB7's LML's and the LMM's.. I've done the 6.7's aswell and I gotta say it's much much easier when the front clips are off.. gives you so much room too see, and you can pull the entire head straight forward instead of wrestling with it.. especially if you got to reach behind the head.. you don't want to be kneeling on the radiator.. it's easier if your standing infront of the engine block..
Ya I don’t doubt that it’s easier. I’ll give it a go next time
@@darkirondiesel 💪
engine crane could use a little wd40 lmfao
Hello I see your videos they are really interesting, I have 2017 ram 3500 6.7 when I bought it ,it had 91k miles I did 25k miles and recently it started to leak coolant I can’t find grime where , every 300 miles I needs to add half gallon coolant. It has only coolant leak the rest works great no overheat, temperature always stays at 195F no engine light nothing the truck works great.I asked local mechanic and they said that it need head gasket replacement so I don’t know how to check to be sure that it is really head gasket do you have any recommendations?