I used this video to clean the pots on my Marantz 2325. I used to have a big pop on startup and the left channel was so distorted, that the receiver wasn't usable. Not so anymore! The cleaning fixed it all. I'm back to listening to my record collection again. Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I was given a 2325 for free 18 years ago and hauled that 50 pound beast with me through many apartment moves and thousands of hours kicking out my jams. I loved it but my jaw dropped a couple of years ago when I saw the price tags on eBay. Anyway it’s time for it’s first detail job inside and out plus case and I really appreciate your help. Ace work homie!
Thx for this video that explained reaching the pots simply by removing the bottom plate! I used this for my 2226BL. Used WD40 Contact cleaner to clean the pots. Works great.
Very nice. Seen other vids and they cut all the tear down out so we are left out to dry and figure it out on our own. Thanks for sharing. I own a 2230 and only thing is scratchy volume. I want to use de-oxit on all the pots. My tech is stalling and stalling and told me it is VERY expensive to do the pots and upgrade to LEDs for the lights. I am going to give it a try myself. Love the gentleness you stress too. 😊👌🦃🎄🥂🙏
Cleaning the pots isn't terribly difficult on most Marantz receivers but replacing the lamps with LED's and getting it to look right so that it's not overly bright or glaring and that the light is evenly distributed behind the tuning dial can be tricky. Incandescent lamps, especially the fuse type lamps used in many Marantz receivers, have a 360ﾟlight pattern around their circumference; but LED's have a relatively narrow beam of light and they don't radiate out the backside of the fuse lamp, only from the front. (You might find that you get a more even light by facing the LED lamps away from the tuning dial and either Edward or towards the rear of the unit so that you get reflected light coming through the dial). Also, the LED's draws so little current that, where an incandescendant lamp might draw enough current to make the power supply sag down to 7 or 8 volts, that same power supply when used to run LED's might be at 10 or 12 Volts and you'll probably have to add extra resistors in order to drop the voltage, tame the light output down so it's not so bright , and prevent the LED's from overheating. (It really helps to have an adjustible resistor substitution box that you can temporarily put in series with your LED's and the receivers power supply and thereby select a resistor that drops the voltage sufficiently. You will also need a multimeter so that you can measure the voltages, and you may have to do some ohm's law calculations in order to figure out what wattage of resistant to use so that it doesn't run too hot and burn up). Sometimes I use color gel material to change the LED color a little bit, or I'll use baker's parchment paper to diffuse the light, especially in a case where the original thin vellum or paper behind the tuning dial has yellowed or turned brown with age. Shiny aluminum tape can also be helpful for lining the plastic tunnel space where the lamp sockets are (the once reflective white plastic might have turned dark brown from heat and age) so that you will get more natural reflection and diffusion of light behind the tuning dial.. Another thing to look out for is that the solder connections to those clips where the fuse lamps go are often cracked and intermittent, and need to be resoldered, but the clips are oxidized and not easy to resolder; and again, one slip of the soldering iron and it's "bye-bye dial string"!. Almost anybody can just stick LED's in there and sorta get it to work, but getting to it to look similar to the original lighting , with maybe a touch more brightness, requires experimentation and probably several different lamps of different colors and brightnesses from different sources. The toughest thing to replace is the illumination for the dial pointer. One wrong move with a tool or soldering iron and you will part the dial string! If the receiver has miniature lamps to indicate which input you are listening to, you will discover that LED's that shoot a beam out the end don't really illuminate the rectangular red lens evenly as incandescent lamps would, and again it will take a little bit of experimenting in order to get the right look. Doing all this without radically screwing something up is generally a job for experienced techs.
@@goodun2974 Did the pots with De-Oxit and they were simple and came out perfect. Cheap to do too. I will stick with the original bulbs. I saw another vid on the tube showing all the possibilities of lamps, different colors and original vs. LED. LED just doesn't look as good. Thanks for the vid.
@@bornagainbornagain6697 , it's not *my* vid! I also forgot to ask, did you polish the contacts of the output relay?. I can guarantee from experience that they're oxidized, and the speaker signal passes through them; the tarnished contacts increase distortion and sometimes cause audio dropouts. Polish the contacts with a pencil eraser and clean them off with alcohol. Do NOT spray them with Deoxit!
I used to sell HI-FI equipment back in 1975 for Team Electronics. We sold the Marantz 2220, 2230, 2245 and 2270 receivers as well as some quad receivers like the Marantz 4270. We sold other brands like Pioneer, Kenwood and Sansui. The Marantz receivers were under “fair trade” so we couldn’t discount them. The mark up on these was in the neighborhood of 30% and my commission was 5%. What we did do was do a package deal on a system where the receiver was part of a package deal with a pair of speakers and a turntable and cartridge. The mark up on certain brands of speakers were more than 60%, turntables about the same but varied by brand and the mark up on some Audio Technica cartridges were 80%. So, basically, we gave a deal on a system we discounted the other things, not the Marantz.
100% agree In 1974 when I bought my Marantz 2275 $599, walnut cabinet $50, Marantz Imperial 7 speakers $350, Kenwood turntable $299, Audio Technic cartridge $65, I think remember they knocked $100 off and threw in the $65 cartridge.
Pretty nice little tear down and fix. Tip, when you use the socket to remove the bolts put a peice of masking tape over the socket hole and use a hobby knife to cut the inside out. That will prevent the socket from leaving a ring around the bolt in the aluminum face plate. Look fwd to the next video to see it up and running in all it's retro glory. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Much easier way to remove tone board, just remove the ONE long stud bolt from the power supply board and it gives you enough room to pull it out, no clipping of wire harness, no removal of power supply board...and the proper way to clean the switches is to remove several of the small screws behind the faceplate that loosens the long aluminum cover plate just enough to deox the bottom of the pushbutton switches...you can unscrew the threaded barrel nut under the Mid knob by using any piece of hard narrow plastic tapping it until it loosens. I also put a piece of blue tape on each of the 4 faceplate bolts and use a nut driver to remove, never scratched yet.
That rotary switch...I broke mine running back n forth while cleaning it...broke on the shaft is split where the knob goes on...still works...you have to use a pair of pliers if you want to turn it.
I used to love Marantz equipment when I was in the Hi Fi trade. As long as you kept a good supply of miniature cable ties and a set of Philips screwdrivers you would be OK.
I have a Marantz 2265 since 2005 and it has been fully recapped and serviced. But now there is something wrong with the FM tuner. The dial doesn't match the station, and it keeps changing it by itself, without moving the pointer, and it goes back and forth between the station that was on before and the one that comes on after. Also, it can't get stereo and fully signal strength. is there something easy that I can do? Like cleaning some part with contacts cleaner?
Thanks for the insight. I'm fortunate as my Pioneer TX7800 tuner pots and SA 7500 amp's pots are all exposed and easy to access. Must get some Deoxit. I"ve been using Electronic Contact Cleaner in the pots but it's not effective. Glad to know it's just oxidation build up. Appreciate.
Hi I have the same receiver. I noticed that previous owner insert jumpers in the PRE OUT input jacks. Question: Can the internal bridge that existed for this be restored so that external jumpers are not needed. Thanks
I just picked up a 2265, I was listening to an album and suddenly lost sound. Then it came back with some crackling, then shut off again. Anything I should check right away?
Cleaning the switches and pot might help, but it could have an internal component that is getting hot and then stops working. I’m about to change capacitors in mine.
Even if the potentiometer or switch was sealed in a box or bag , the metal contacts would eventually oxidize and develop a layer of tarnish. If they are installed in a unit, then household dust floating through the air settles in there and binds to the factory lubrication.
I have that exact receiver and I had to do the same thing I'm waiting for my bulbs too so I'll be waiting to see your next video I'd rather have you screw yours up and me screw mine up just kidding
Is it really a good idea to switch out all the caps? It was originally made with high quality components and now even if you are buying good brand name stuff, you a 50/50 chance of getting Chinese junk instead. It isn't so old that it doesn't have modern caps in it. If it has caps that are out of spec, you should replace them, obviously... What is your opinion of this?
elna audio grade or nichicon fine gold from a reputable source are always a good idea. eletrolytic capacitors begin to weaken, drift and eventually go out of spec by the 10 to 15 year mark - by that time you can absolutely go ahead and replace them. capacitors can also hold up quite good, and in spec caps in the power delivery are not a big deal, however usually there is a great amount of caps in the signal path, and those can make the amp sound "old", even tho they dont necessarily have to be defect or out of spec. on that note, just switching out one selected cap is not ideal either, if they come in pairs, say you switch out one left channel cap, but not the right channel one - you should do it in pairs at least.
Don't block our view with your hand or thumb while performing an important maneuver. Can't see where the spray is going. Shoot from an angle or get someone to move the camera around. :)
Man, remove this movie as soon as possible, you are not ashamed to destroy the device? Jesus Christ, what are you doing?... people! never do it like that, it only destroys the device ! wow ! 80 likes ? no comment..
I used this video to clean the pots on my Marantz 2325. I used to have a big pop on startup and the left channel was so distorted, that the receiver wasn't usable. Not so anymore! The cleaning fixed it all. I'm back to listening to my record collection again. Thank you!
I'm loving these old receivers. Takes me back.
Thanks for the video. I was given a 2325 for free 18 years ago and hauled that 50 pound beast with me through many apartment moves and thousands of hours kicking out my jams. I loved it but my jaw dropped a couple of years ago when I saw the price tags on eBay. Anyway it’s time for it’s first detail job inside and out plus case and I really appreciate your help. Ace work homie!
Thx for this video that explained reaching the pots simply by removing the bottom plate! I used this for my 2226BL. Used WD40 Contact cleaner to clean the pots. Works great.
Very nice. Seen other vids and they cut all the tear down out so we are left out to dry and figure it out on our own. Thanks for sharing. I own a 2230 and only thing is scratchy volume. I want to use de-oxit on all the pots. My tech is stalling and stalling and told me it is VERY expensive to do the pots and upgrade to LEDs for the lights. I am going to give it a try myself. Love the gentleness you stress too. 😊👌🦃🎄🥂🙏
Cleaning the pots isn't terribly difficult on most Marantz receivers but replacing the lamps with LED's and getting it to look right so that it's not overly bright or glaring and that the light is evenly distributed behind the tuning dial can be tricky. Incandescent lamps, especially the fuse type lamps used in many Marantz receivers, have a 360ﾟlight pattern around their circumference; but LED's have a relatively narrow beam of light and they don't radiate out the backside of the fuse lamp, only from the front. (You might find that you get a more even light by facing the LED lamps away from the tuning dial and either Edward or towards the rear of the unit so that you get reflected light coming through the dial). Also, the LED's draws so little current that, where an incandescendant lamp might draw enough current to make the power supply sag down to 7 or 8 volts, that same power supply when used to run LED's might be at 10 or 12 Volts and you'll probably have to add extra resistors in order to drop the voltage, tame the light output down so it's not so bright , and prevent the LED's from overheating. (It really helps to have an adjustible resistor substitution box that you can temporarily put in series with your LED's and the receivers power supply and thereby select a resistor that drops the voltage sufficiently. You will also need a multimeter so that you can measure the voltages, and you may have to do some ohm's law calculations in order to figure out what wattage of resistant to use so that it doesn't run too hot and burn up).
Sometimes I use color gel material to change the LED color a little bit, or I'll use baker's parchment paper to diffuse the light, especially in a case where the original thin vellum or paper behind the tuning dial has yellowed or turned brown with age. Shiny aluminum tape can also be helpful for lining the plastic tunnel space where the lamp sockets are (the once reflective white plastic might have turned dark brown from heat and age) so that you will get more natural reflection and diffusion of light behind the tuning dial.. Another thing to look out for is that the solder connections to those clips where the fuse lamps go are often cracked and intermittent, and need to be resoldered, but the clips are oxidized and not easy to resolder; and again, one slip of the soldering iron and it's "bye-bye dial string"!.
Almost anybody can just stick LED's in there and sorta get it to work, but getting to it to look similar to the original lighting , with maybe a touch more brightness, requires experimentation and probably several different lamps of different colors and brightnesses from different sources. The toughest thing to replace is the illumination for the dial pointer. One wrong move with a tool or soldering iron and you will part the dial string! If the receiver has miniature lamps to indicate which input you are listening to, you will discover that LED's that shoot a beam out the end don't really illuminate the rectangular red lens evenly as incandescent lamps would, and again it will take a little bit of experimenting in order to get the right look. Doing all this without radically screwing something up is generally a job for experienced techs.
@@goodun2974 Did the pots with De-Oxit and they were simple and came out perfect. Cheap to do too. I will stick with the original bulbs. I saw another vid on the tube showing all the possibilities of lamps, different colors and original vs. LED. LED just doesn't look as good. Thanks for the vid.
@@bornagainbornagain6697 , it's not *my* vid! I also forgot to ask, did you polish the contacts of the output relay?. I can guarantee from experience that they're oxidized, and the speaker signal passes through them; the tarnished contacts increase distortion and sometimes cause audio dropouts. Polish the contacts with a pencil eraser and clean them off with alcohol. Do NOT spray them with Deoxit!
Very satisfying video.
I used to sell HI-FI equipment back in 1975 for Team Electronics. We sold the Marantz 2220, 2230, 2245 and 2270 receivers as well as some quad receivers like the Marantz 4270. We sold other brands like Pioneer, Kenwood and Sansui. The Marantz receivers were under “fair trade” so we couldn’t discount them. The mark up on these was in the neighborhood of 30% and my commission was 5%. What we did do was do a package deal on a system where the receiver was part of a package deal with a pair of speakers and a turntable and cartridge. The mark up on certain brands of speakers were more than 60%, turntables about the same but varied by brand and the mark up on some Audio Technica cartridges were 80%. So, basically, we gave a deal on a system we discounted the other things, not the Marantz.
100% agree In 1974 when I bought my Marantz 2275 $599, walnut cabinet $50, Marantz Imperial 7 speakers $350, Kenwood turntable $299, Audio Technic cartridge $65, I think remember they knocked $100 off and threw in the $65 cartridge.
Thanks for the Video, I got my 1970 Pioneer Quadraphonic to roar without scratchy noise.
aroundslotown glad it was a help!
Pretty nice little tear down and fix. Tip, when you use the socket to remove the bolts put a peice of masking tape over the socket hole and use a hobby knife to cut the inside out. That will prevent the socket from leaving a ring around the bolt in the aluminum face plate. Look fwd to the next video to see it up and running in all it's retro glory. Thanks for sharing.
Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith
Thanks for the tip Keith great idea!
This was a great vid. I used your tips and It helped me navigate the cleaning of my Technics SA-8000X. Thanks!
Much easier way to remove tone board, just remove the ONE long stud bolt from the power supply board and it gives you enough room to pull it out, no clipping of wire harness, no removal of power supply board...and the proper way to clean the switches is to remove several of the small screws behind the faceplate that loosens the long aluminum cover plate just enough to deox the bottom of the pushbutton switches...you can unscrew the threaded barrel nut under the Mid knob by using any piece of hard narrow plastic tapping it until it loosens. I also put a piece of blue tape on each of the 4 faceplate bolts and use a nut driver to remove, never scratched yet.
When I cleaned the pots on my Marantz 2220b, I just took the bottom cover off and used the straw on the deoxide can.
That rotary switch...I broke mine running back n forth while cleaning it...broke on the shaft is split where the knob goes on...still works...you have to use a pair of pliers if you want to turn it.
I used to love Marantz equipment when I was in the Hi Fi trade. As long as you kept a good supply of miniature cable ties and a set of Philips screwdrivers you would be OK.
I have a Marantz 2265 since 2005 and it has been fully recapped and serviced. But now there is something wrong with the FM tuner. The dial doesn't match the station, and it keeps changing it by itself, without moving the pointer, and it goes back and forth between the station that was on before and the one that comes on after. Also, it can't get stereo and fully signal strength. is there something easy that I can do? Like cleaning some part with contacts cleaner?
Thanks for the insight. I'm fortunate as my Pioneer TX7800 tuner pots and SA 7500 amp's pots are all exposed and easy to access. Must get some Deoxit. I"ve been using Electronic Contact Cleaner in the pots but it's not effective. Glad to know it's just oxidation build up. Appreciate.
I need to get at the Balance pot.
Hi I have the same receiver. I noticed that previous owner insert jumpers in the PRE OUT input jacks. Question: Can the internal bridge that existed for this be restored so that external jumpers are not needed. Thanks
How do you clean up the DeOxit residue.
Phillip Seymour Hoffman makes good diy videos.
Thanks, I have to clean my selector pod on my 2285B
Do modern a/v receivers have pots, and pans?
I just picked up a 2265, I was listening to an album and suddenly lost sound. Then it came back with some crackling, then shut off again. Anything I should check right away?
Cleaning the switches and pot might help, but it could have an internal component that is getting hot and then stops working. I’m about to change capacitors in mine.
How do pots get dirty in the first place and what would be the result of not cleaning them?
Even if the potentiometer or switch was sealed in a box or bag , the metal contacts would eventually oxidize and develop a layer of tarnish. If they are installed in a unit, then household dust floating through the air settles in there and binds to the factory lubrication.
I have that exact receiver and I had to do the same thing I'm waiting for my bulbs too so I'll be waiting to see your next video I'd rather have you screw yours up and me screw mine up just kidding
Ice Cube trays!!!
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Is it really a good idea to switch out all the caps? It was originally made with high quality components and now even if you are buying good brand name stuff, you a 50/50 chance of getting Chinese junk instead. It isn't so old that it doesn't have modern caps in it. If it has caps that are out of spec, you should replace them, obviously...
What is your opinion of this?
If a bad cap shorts internally and melts your PCB your vintage receiver will become a paperweight.
elna audio grade or nichicon fine gold from a reputable source are always a good idea. eletrolytic capacitors begin to weaken, drift and eventually go out of spec by the 10 to 15 year mark - by that time you can absolutely go ahead and replace them. capacitors can also hold up quite good, and in spec caps in the power delivery are not a big deal, however usually there is a great amount of caps in the signal path, and those can make the amp sound "old", even tho they dont necessarily have to be defect or out of spec.
on that note, just switching out one selected cap is not ideal either, if they come in pairs, say you switch out one left channel cap, but not the right channel one - you should do it in pairs at least.
Jesus, man ...! Don't you cleanup them first? Maybe you had just to dip in a bucket filled with this preparation. Quick and easy fix :) Lol
I was going to make a similar comment! haha. Essentially, yes!
Roaches? How about bed bugs...that would be far worse.
Is this guy doing an open heart surgery or kidney transplant or what
Don't block our view with your hand or thumb while performing an important maneuver. Can't see where the spray is going. Shoot from an angle or get someone to move the camera around. :)
Are you George W Bush?
Man, remove this movie as soon as possible, you are not ashamed to destroy the device? Jesus Christ, what are you doing?... people! never do it like that, it only destroys the device !
wow ! 80 likes ? no comment..
Yeah it’s totally destroyed. It caught on fire and blew my house up right after the video. I’m now homeless.
You are a silly human.