I'm also interested in where the placement for the shower screen would be. Is this meant to be an enclosed shower, where the screen would sit on top of the waterstop?
@@ardexaustralia If you were to screed above the waterproofing and then waterproof again would you have to use another puddle flange? Trying to avoid creating a wet sandwich type situation if the 1st membrane fails
@conp I used a puddle flange from bunnings. Waterproof the tile underlay and the puddle flange. I then use a piddle flange adaptor (also sold by bunnings) and screed around it. This adaptor acts as a second puddle flange. I then incorporate the waterproofing into that adaptor.
How do you know what size wood to use as a former for the drain base? Do you go a bit bigger than the drains' actual size to allow for shrinkage of the screed, or is it exactly the same size?
Ideally if you have the drain system handy this is better to use as a forming guide. If using the actual drain, this should be washed down after removal from the fresh screed installation. Regardless of whether you are using the actual drain or a plank of wood for sizing, it is best to allow for a little extra room. It is much easier to fill voids and lay tiles over the filled voids than having issues with insufficient space (especially once waterproofing is already installed. Generally 10mm extra allowance is all that you should need.
I have a similar bathroom to do. My longest fall from wall to strip drain is 1200mm. My fall should be 10mm of fall. This means there will be 10mm of your stop angle exposed inside the shower at the top of the strip drain , how do you finish the edge between tile and stop angle ? Silicon or grout? In your case it should be about 6mm fall.
Good question @podden3863 - The minimum thickness of a bonded screed is 15mm. This means the height of the screed at 1.2m will be 30mm to achieve the 1/80 falls for shower areas. ARDEX do not sell the stop angles.
@@ardexaustralia to answer that question it would be to use a box angle trim that is used for external joints, fit this over the top of the water stop, then screed this in as per normal, once the floor is then tiled you have a nice clean edge on the inside and a flush floor tile to the outside of shower, this is level so the shower screen sits on top, that is how I do it and it is a very clean look without compromising the waterproofing
Use a box trim that is used on external corners, sit that on top of the water stop, then you end up with a clean edges and a level flat surface for shower screen
Good question @ravinvijayakumare - Bonded screeds are generally applied with a bonding slurry coat consisting of a liquid polymer additive (e.g. acrylic or SBR - rubber latex such as ARDEX Abalastic or WPM405) mixed with cement. The bonding slurry is broomed thoroughly over the dry membrane and the mixed wet screed mortar applied over the still wet bonding slurry. The liquid polymer additive is also diluted with water and mixed into the screed mortar.
The placement should be measured from the surrounding walls to make things square. Unfortunately we do not go into detail with all aspects of the installation but we appreciate the feedback on what you feel is lacking for our next videos.
I'm also interested in where the placement for the shower screen would be. Is this meant to be an enclosed shower, where the screen would sit on top of the waterstop?
Me to, how does the screen sit 🤔
Nice video, how would you finish the waterproofing above the screed into the drain ?
Thanks for your question! What additional info do you need other than the finish shown over the drain in the video? Happy to help!
@@ardexaustralia If you were to screed above the waterproofing and then waterproof again would you have to use another puddle flange? Trying to avoid creating a wet sandwich type situation if the 1st membrane fails
@conp
I used a puddle flange from bunnings. Waterproof the tile underlay and the puddle flange. I then use a piddle flange adaptor (also sold by bunnings) and screed around it. This adaptor acts as a second puddle flange. I then incorporate the waterproofing into that adaptor.
What is the slurry made of? Just a very wet screed?
Yeah it doesn't say. The specs say neat cement/water mix but others slurry the produst mix@IB6-UB9
How do you know what size wood to use as a former for the drain base? Do you go a bit bigger than the drains' actual size to allow for shrinkage of the screed, or is it exactly the same size?
Ideally if you have the drain system handy this is better to use as a forming guide. If using the actual drain, this should be washed down after removal from the fresh screed installation. Regardless of whether you are using the actual drain or a plank of wood for sizing, it is best to allow for a little extra room. It is much easier to fill voids and lay tiles over the filled voids than having issues with insufficient space (especially once waterproofing is already installed. Generally 10mm extra allowance is all that you should need.
I have a similar bathroom to do. My longest fall from wall to strip drain is 1200mm. My fall should be 10mm of fall. This means there will be 10mm of your stop angle exposed inside the shower at the top of the strip drain , how do you finish the edge between tile and stop angle ? Silicon or grout?
In your case it should be about 6mm fall.
Good question @podden3863 - The minimum thickness of a bonded screed is 15mm. This means the height of the screed at 1.2m will be 30mm to achieve the 1/80 falls for shower areas. ARDEX do not sell the stop angles.
@@ardexaustralia to answer that question it would be to use a box angle trim that is used for external joints, fit this over the top of the water stop, then screed this in as per normal, once the floor is then tiled you have a nice clean edge on the inside and a flush floor tile to the outside of shower, this is level so the shower screen sits on top, that is how I do it and it is a very clean look without compromising the waterproofing
Use a box trim that is used on external corners, sit that on top of the water stop, then you end up with a clean edges and a level flat surface for shower screen
How do yo mix the slurry?
Good question @ravinvijayakumare - Bonded screeds are generally applied with a bonding slurry coat consisting of a liquid polymer additive (e.g. acrylic or SBR - rubber latex such as ARDEX Abalastic or WPM405) mixed with cement. The bonding slurry is broomed thoroughly over the dry membrane and the mixed wet screed mortar applied over the still wet bonding slurry. The liquid polymer additive is also diluted with water and mixed into the screed mortar.
Thanks
You didn’t even explain how to square the waste heights of the pads or anything educational, you essentially just filmed yourself working
The placement should be measured from the surrounding walls to make things square. Unfortunately we do not go into detail with all aspects of the installation but we appreciate the feedback on what you feel is lacking for our next videos.