I've used Micro-Mark's liquid mask and applied it very thick. It came off relatively easy. However, in tiny crevices where it was stubborn, I simply held the model under the facet and lightly scrubbed the model with a soft brush. The stuff dissolves in water and I was able to remove it easily. It turns white when wet so I could easily identify where it was still on the model.
I ve used it a lot to mask the base coat in 1/35 armour models in order to create the patches of the 2nd and 3rd colour of the camouflage scheme I wanted.It works great.Mostly on flat surfaces,but still with a toothpick I was able to peel it off from any engraved tiny panel lines and protruding details on the surface.I was just using the biggest ball of peeled mask passing it over the crevices so that it kinda drags the tiny bits and stick them to it.And since i destroyed lots of normal brushes with it, I now apply it using silicon brushes which clean extremely easily after the mask has dried on the tip
Παναγιώτης Δημητρακοπουλος thank you for your tip! I will only use this product on fairly flat areas. I never want to go through with what I went through here again.
If you are having trouble put a second coat on very thick . Should pull the remains off. People tend to put it on too thin leading to the problem you had.
Thank you, Ive struggled, toiled, and suffered using this product. It would have been ok if I stuck to using it on flat surfaces rather than flooding all that detail.
You could have just taped off the larger open areas with actual tape, like the body, head, most of the legs etc. Then, just use a little liquid mask right on the edges. near where you're going to paint. Not sure why you felt the need to completely cover the larger areas with it. Anyways.... The tape will help a little bit, as the liquid mask will stick to it, and most of it will just come off with the tape. It also helps to lightly score the edge where you're taking it off, with your hobby knife.
Harley Canine Excellent advise thank you! Yep, since I recorded this video I use a combination of painters tape and silly putty to mask off areas to paint. Check out my more current tutorials and paint and chats to see the new masking techniques applied.
I thought of this, the robes were layered black then transitioned with the purples, if I were to airbrush the mini in black then it would be more difficult to paint the bone color bits. The process that I used worked perfectly well when I used silly putty. I have the video in my hexwraith tutorial/build and ramble videos here: Part1 : th-cam.com/video/-85J8drRvZ4/w-d-xo.html Part2: th-cam.com/video/zvZZag2rcac/w-d-xo.html
well let me suggest you use blue tac or aluminium foil or tape or whatever you prefer for masking large areas and keep liquid mask for gems or details. That is the idea: liquid mask is meant for covering smaller areas such as feet, faces, gems, belts... maybe parts of shields... Also you have to be very generous otherwise, if u only apply a thin layer, it is hard to remove (as u say blue tac is great at removing it). One last thing... there are liquid masks out there that include their own brush cap which is very useful so that you do not have to throw away your brush afterwards. Giraldez uses Vallejo but he does not pay for his brushes! ;)
As soon as I saw you painting it onto bones, I knew it wasn't going to work. Best for flat surfaces - and definitely not for bulk work. I use it for clear plastic canopies. And that's about it.
I definitely learned the hard way, I hope to save others from this fundamental yet tragically time consuming mistake that I made. I'll will try it on clear plastic canopies, I have some 40k items that have have those in my painting log. Thank you for the advise! Happy painting!
Imo it's best used to simulate chipping when applying a paintscheme like a decal or stripe or number. You can stipple it onto the surface in irregular small blotches, then you do the rest of the masking with tape or whatever you like. When you have finished the "decal" you rub the liquid mask off and it will look like it has been chipped away. If used together with weathering techniques you can really create some very nice effects.
you are welcome, try it - you will be surely be pleased :) Small tip: Use a dry sponge to remove the liquid mask, it will be easily removed as it 'rolls off' in small flakes. If used after the primer this technique can also be used for weathering whole tanks etc, however the effect works imo best in small quantities.
Thanks for your videos. I found this statement on Vallejo's webpage for their Liquid Mask. It says to rub the mask off: "Once the work is dry, liquid mask is rubbed off with an eraser or piece of cloth, revealing unpainted area." Hope this helps.
homunculous007 Thank you, I’m honored that you like my videos! I think my largest issue here is that I should only restrict my usage to flat areas where it is easier to get off.
I pretty much used it like you did, to be honest I didn't have any problems but I didn't apply it into recesses and I didn't cover as large areas as you did. I did make sure it was applied as thick as possible which may aid in the removal ?? I think its an aid to masking really and probably not designed to fully mask a large area. I have also read you should remove the mask as soon as possible, i.e. mask up paint and then remove in one go.
Well 1 its best for military 1:45 tanks upwards 2 apply little water build it up. Its natural resin so warm brush with washing up liquid works fine for me.
Curious, does building up in layers with hot water make it easier to peal off? I'll have to try it, I'm still leery however to paint it in crevices. I hope it works, I have some Wahammer 40k tanks that I have on the docket! "Tank" you so much for the advice! (I couldn't help my self.)
...ah last suggestion: people fear overspray far too much in my opinion. In the case of the horse, with or without a tape to cover the bones, you should be able to spray the fabric no problem without using any mask really. I you are afraid of over spraying when u get close to the skeletal area I suggest 1) you do not get close to it (and refine the border by brush) or 2) you get close to it and correct the overspray later. Especially if you are airbrushing lights that should be enough as the entire creature is theoretically under the same light.... so face or body when it comes to highlight it does not make much difference.
I agree, I’ve since been a bit less reserved when it comes to blending. When I’ve realized that, trying to combine paint as if it were a chemistry experiment was frustrating and non-productive. Now I tend to go with the flow as to the feeling as it applies to overall composition. I truly appreciate your wisdom upon this matter, several years later after this video I’m still learning new things from it. I’m so glad that I produced it to get the opportunity to meet people like you, people that interactive and part of the community. Thank you!
My experience with Humbrol maskol was so bad, I almost felt like suing. It just doesn't do the job it claims to do. It turned my brush into a spatula 20 seconds in, dried way too fast on the model (which made mask already laid down stick to the brush and peel off), was a total bastard to remove and ate through three coats of fully cured varnish...and yes, I'd done my research and it was supposed to be compatible with the paints and clear coat I was using.
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush I used the Maskol because I was having to mask tons of tiny detail...too small for putty or blu-tac and way too fiddly for the masking tape I had. After revarnishing ended up spending a few hours with some 2mm flexible masking tape. Lesson learned: Shortcuts just cost more time and effort in the long run
I was hoping you'd show us a magical way to use Vallejo liquid mask effectively because I've had the same problem you found. BTW - "crevicey" is, in my opinion, a completely legitimate word. The "y" appended to it is what's technically called a suffix. I imagine it will end up in the OED one day with the definition pertaining to crevices.
Rufus Coppertop unfortunately the only way I would use it as a mask would be on small flat surfaces. I “stick” to silly putty for masking. Thank you for legitimizing my word. I wonder if I can use liquidmask to fill hairline gaps...
Use blue tac to get it off, apply thin so that if you can't get everything a piece off it doesn't matter, as a rule of thumb though, I never use it on jagged surfaces for one, it's easy enough to go back in with a brush and shadow the area after and 2 even with blue tac it's though to get off jagged crevices. I use humbrol maskol now. But I still would use Vallejo, it's just harder to find. Stay away from micro scale industry's liquid mask its way too thin, and runs. But it comes off easier
How long did you let it dry for before trying to remove it? I haven't used this product, but I've heard that if you wait more than a day or two then it gets very difficult to use. I've definitely seen this used more often on flat surfaces as well, as you mentioned.
I wish it were that I let it dry too long but I let it dry for an hour before I attempted to peel it. I recently attempted to use it in weathering check out my recent Orky Race Video, but it still wouldn't work the way I wanted it to. Sigh, one day I'll find a use for it, one day... Thank you for watching the video, and commenting. This community would not much of a community at all if it weren't for amazing people like you!
You need to do at least 3 layers. 1 layer let it dry. Second layer let it dry. 3rd layer let it dry. Then paint and peel it off using a toothpick or tack. 1 layer is way too thin and you get the problem in this video.
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush the latex dries clear so can be a pain, i sometimes mix mine with a good bit of acrylic paint to dye it, so far have not had any troube with the paint staining my model usualy dye it a bright color like neon green
Deze video is een waarschuwing over het gebruik van Liquid Masking bij miniatuur schilderen. Om precies te zijn; HOE je het NIET moet gebruiken ... Het is nog steeds een geweldig en nuttig product ... maar het heeft zijn grenzen
I'm not sure how well my Dutch is be here goes: Goed gezegd, ik ben het met je eens, ik verwachtte dat het net zo nuttig zou zijn bij onregelmatige vormen. Ik had het mis en ik wilde anderen waarschuwen die dezelfde fout zouden kunnen maken. Ik gebruik nu dwaze stopverf om te maskeren en vermijd dit peroduct persoonlijk omdat het me voor het leven heeft getekend. Hopefully I said it correctly.
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush Did not expect a reaction on a 3 year old video .. but thanks .. Yes i completely understood what you "said" :) Not quit sure what Dwaze Stopverf would be .. but i think silly putty :) ( its a one on one translation :) ) Sound rather dramatic ... "scared for life" ... but i'm real happy with your video and shared it around n our Dutch community :)
@@ArnolddeGans Thank you I try to always engage with the community, no matter how old the video, I struggled quite a bit on my journey of miniature painting, I not only like to post my success but also my failures to be more realistic as a youtuber. Also, I love the community, I think there are some of the most amazing people that I have ever met are miniature painters you included!
why in earth you will mask a skeleton??? what effect you spect to achieve?? You miss use the product for the porpouse that has been design to, the fault its not in the product.
I was a noob, I didn't know but I learned, the hard way and I wanted to prevent others from making that mistake that I made almost 3 years ago when I made this video.
I need to try Mr. Masking Sol, that being said I'm currently trying something new with liquid mask, it has to do with a weathering technique. I'm working on a video on it that will be out this month.
I buy a pack of 50 brushes off of Amazon, then dedicate one of those brushes to messy stuff like this, Iv'e never attempted to clean the brush. If I were to attempt I think I wold start with water and rinsing it with mild dish washing liquid if it's a synthetic brush. Let me know if this works.
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush I did now the same. I marked one brush for this masking. I noticed if i put it not small into the liquid m. than will be easier going down after drying in one piece from the brush.
Basically, just use some common sense. Using it this way is the equivalent of sliding your hand into a narrow hole, making a fist, and wondering why you can't get it back out.
why not use conventional soap and then just wash it out with water? Might be messy if you have to handle the piece a lot.... but might come handy in some scenarios...
More for scale modelling than minis. Though it has put the fear of God into me putting this gear on my aircraft. For minis, I'd recommend Tamiya tape. Great stuff and easy to cut. The white version is flexible for compound curves
I thought the same thing, I haven’t touched the stuff for three years. There are a few interesting recommendations in the comments that I haven’t attempted.
I hope by now, 2021, you've learned that this is an excellent product (actually Abteilung Liquid Mask is a little better) that does, as you said, work on large flat surfaces. Your problem here was you did this job backwards. Why not mask the large coverings of the skeleton horse; so easy to do; and then spray or brush paint everything else in your bone colour. No liquid mask for the hobby industry was ever made to mask tiny undulating, uneven, crevices, like your horse bone surface. Once again, you approached the problem the wong way. Easier still, you could have put masking tape on the horse's 'cloak' and then painted the whole model with bone colour. Given all that, liquid masks will work well with most uneven surfaces and areas that have engraved lines or texturing that one finds on the wings and fuselages of aircraft or in fine tank or ship detail. You are not alone, however, many figure painters/makers often complain that products made for plastic kit modelling and painting etc. don't work on their figures. Well, it's pretty obvious to me that there are many branches of hobbies and crafts. Simply go to a general hobby/crafts store and you'll find products that suit you. A sculpting specialty store would have many items that would be ideal for your hobby. It's like me complaining that a sewing machine never works on a plastic model aircraft. Horses for courses and all that. Cheers, BH
I've used Micro-Mark's liquid mask and applied it very thick. It came off relatively easy. However, in tiny crevices where it was stubborn, I simply held the model under the facet and lightly scrubbed the model with a soft brush. The stuff dissolves in water and I was able to remove it easily. It turns white when wet so I could easily identify where it was still on the model.
It does take some effort to use, it was not what I was expecting at all however.
I ve used it a lot to mask the base coat in 1/35 armour models in order to create the patches of the 2nd and 3rd colour of the camouflage scheme I wanted.It works great.Mostly on flat surfaces,but still with a toothpick I was able to peel it off from any engraved tiny panel lines and protruding details on the surface.I was just using the biggest ball of peeled mask passing it over the crevices so that it kinda drags the tiny bits and stick them to it.And since i destroyed lots of normal brushes with it, I now apply it using silicon brushes which clean extremely easily after the mask has dried on the tip
Παναγιώτης Δημητρακοπουλος thank you for your tip! I will only use this product on fairly flat areas. I never want to go through with what I went through here again.
If you are having trouble put a second coat on very thick . Should pull the remains off. People tend to put it on too thin leading to the problem you had.
I’ll have to try this product again very thickly. Thank you!
Put it on thicker and use blue tack to remove it.
You need a fairly thick layer.
Thank you, Ive struggled, toiled, and suffered using this product. It would have been ok if I stuck to using it on flat surfaces rather than flooding all that detail.
Yea agree on this one, the mask has to be thick as fook
Thanks for the blu-tac advice. I recently used this Vallejo liquid mask and afterwards quickly remembered why I hadn’t used it since it’s first use.
You could have just taped off the larger open areas with actual tape, like the body, head, most of the legs etc. Then, just use a little liquid mask right on the edges. near where you're going to paint. Not sure why you felt the need to completely cover the larger areas with it. Anyways.... The tape will help a little bit, as the liquid mask will stick to it, and most of it will just come off with the tape. It also helps to lightly score the edge where you're taking it off, with your hobby knife.
Harley Canine Excellent advise thank you! Yep, since I recorded this video I use a combination of painters tape and silly putty to mask off areas to paint. Check out my more current tutorials and paint and chats to see the new masking techniques applied.
Why not paint the cloth bit, then mask it before painting the bone?
I thought of this, the robes were layered black then transitioned with the purples, if I were to airbrush the mini in black then it would be more difficult to paint the bone color bits. The process that I used worked perfectly well when I used silly putty. I have the video in my hexwraith tutorial/build and ramble videos here:
Part1 : th-cam.com/video/-85J8drRvZ4/w-d-xo.html
Part2: th-cam.com/video/zvZZag2rcac/w-d-xo.html
well let me suggest you use blue tac or aluminium foil or tape or whatever you prefer for masking large areas and keep liquid mask for gems or details. That is the idea: liquid mask is meant for covering smaller areas such as feet, faces, gems, belts... maybe parts of shields... Also you have to be very generous otherwise, if u only apply a thin layer, it is hard to remove (as u say blue tac is great at removing it). One last thing... there are liquid masks out there that include their own brush cap which is very useful so that you do not have to throw away your brush afterwards. Giraldez uses Vallejo but he does not pay for his brushes! ;)
Great advice thank you! I’ll try it for smaller areas. I’ve used Silly Putty with great success for that last 3 years.
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush yep silly putty in hard to get in EU but it works great, good idea!
Hello I'm french. I wanted to ask you what the blue tac you are talking about is, I'm interested, thank you ;)eu
As soon as I saw you painting it onto bones, I knew it wasn't going to work. Best for flat surfaces - and definitely not for bulk work. I use it for clear plastic canopies. And that's about it.
I definitely learned the hard way, I hope to save others from this fundamental yet tragically time consuming mistake that I made. I'll will try it on clear plastic canopies, I have some 40k items that have have those in my painting log. Thank you for the advise! Happy painting!
Imo it's best used to simulate chipping when applying a paintscheme like a decal or stripe or number. You can stipple it onto the surface in irregular small blotches, then you do the rest of the masking with tape or whatever you like. When you have finished the "decal" you rub the liquid mask off and it will look like it has been chipped away. If used together with weathering techniques you can really create some very nice effects.
Wow!!! That’s an epic idea. I’m so going to try it. Thank you for this!
you are welcome, try it - you will be surely be pleased :) Small tip: Use a dry sponge to remove the liquid mask, it will be easily removed as it 'rolls off' in small flakes. If used after the primer this technique can also be used for weathering whole tanks etc, however the effect works imo best in small quantities.
Thanks for your videos. I found this statement on Vallejo's webpage for their Liquid Mask. It says to rub the mask off: "Once the work is dry, liquid mask is rubbed off with an eraser or piece of cloth, revealing unpainted area." Hope this helps.
homunculous007 Thank you, I’m honored that you like my videos! I think my largest issue here is that I should only restrict my usage to flat areas where it is easier to get off.
I pretty much used it like you did, to be honest I didn't have any problems but I didn't apply it into recesses and I didn't cover as large areas as you did. I did make sure it was applied as thick as possible which may aid in the removal ?? I think its an aid to masking really and probably not designed to fully mask a large area. I have also read you should remove the mask as soon as possible, i.e. mask up paint and then remove in one go.
Johnny641 I'll keep that in mind next time I use it, thank you for the advice, much appreciated!
Smooth polished surfaces only any kind of textured finish it will grab and not peel
It’s designed for glass etc
Thank you, I’ll be sure never to use it on textured surfaces again! But glass well that opens up a door of creativity! Thank you again!
Well
1 its best for military 1:45 tanks upwards
2 apply little water build it up. Its natural resin so warm brush with washing up liquid works fine for me.
Curious, does building up in layers with hot water make it easier to peal off? I'll have to try it, I'm still leery however to paint it in crevices. I hope it works, I have some Wahammer 40k tanks that I have on the docket! "Tank" you so much for the advice! (I couldn't help my self.)
...ah last suggestion: people fear overspray far too much in my opinion. In the case of the horse, with or without a tape to cover the bones, you should be able to spray the fabric no problem without using any mask really. I you are afraid of over spraying when u get close to the skeletal area I suggest 1) you do not get close to it (and refine the border by brush) or 2) you get close to it and correct the overspray later. Especially if you are airbrushing lights that should be enough as the entire creature is theoretically under the same light.... so face or body when it comes to highlight it does not make much difference.
I agree, I’ve since been a bit less reserved when it comes to blending. When I’ve realized that, trying to combine paint as if it were a chemistry experiment was frustrating and non-productive. Now I tend to go with the flow as to the feeling as it applies to overall composition. I truly appreciate your wisdom upon this matter, several years later after this video I’m still learning new things from it. I’m so glad that I produced it to get the opportunity to meet people like you, people that interactive and part of the community. Thank you!
My experience with Humbrol maskol was so bad, I almost felt like suing. It just doesn't do the job it claims to do.
It turned my brush into a spatula 20 seconds in, dried way too fast on the model (which made mask already laid down stick to the brush and peel off), was a total bastard to remove and ate through three coats of fully cured varnish...and yes, I'd done my research and it was supposed to be compatible with the paints and clear coat I was using.
I now I use silly putty for masking irregular shapes it doesn’t lift paint and is reusable when painting with acrylics!
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush I used the Maskol because I was having to mask tons of tiny detail...too small for putty or blu-tac and way too fiddly for the masking tape I had. After revarnishing ended up spending a few hours with some 2mm flexible masking tape. Lesson learned: Shortcuts just cost more time and effort in the long run
@@watermelonhelmet6854 AMEN!
I was hoping you'd show us a magical way to use Vallejo liquid mask effectively because I've had the same problem you found.
BTW - "crevicey" is, in my opinion, a completely legitimate word. The "y" appended to it is what's technically called a suffix. I imagine it will end up in the OED one day with the definition pertaining to crevices.
Rufus Coppertop unfortunately the only way I would use it as a mask would be on small flat surfaces. I “stick” to silly putty for masking. Thank you for legitimizing my word. I wonder if I can use liquidmask to fill hairline gaps...
Use blue tac to get it off, apply thin so that if you can't get everything a piece off it doesn't matter, as a rule of thumb though, I never use it on jagged surfaces for one, it's easy enough to go back in with a brush and shadow the area after and 2 even with blue tac it's though to get off jagged crevices. I use humbrol maskol now. But I still would use Vallejo, it's just harder to find. Stay away from micro scale industry's liquid mask its way too thin, and runs. But it comes off easier
Thank you for advice! I know what you mean, poster tack and many hours is what it took to take it off.
The Miniature's Paintbrush
do you put rocks in medicine bottle for ballast ? So it dont fall over ?
Yep I sure do! I use rocks and/or construction sand. It helps a lot, especially because I can be clumsy at times.
How long did you let it dry for before trying to remove it? I haven't used this product, but I've heard that if you wait more than a day or two then it gets very difficult to use. I've definitely seen this used more often on flat surfaces as well, as you mentioned.
I wish it were that I let it dry too long but I let it dry for an hour before I attempted to peel it. I recently attempted to use it in weathering check out my recent Orky Race Video, but it still wouldn't work the way I wanted it to. Sigh, one day I'll find a use for it, one day... Thank you for watching the video, and commenting. This community would not much of a community at all if it weren't for amazing people like you!
Wow your work is beautiful
You really think so? Wow, thank you so much! This video is three years old, you should check out my more recent work!
It works well for making backgrounds for handmade cards.
Oh wow, I never thought of that, I wish I could see a picture!
I use humbrol masking and gloss the area I'm about to mask makes taking it off alot easier
Thank you for the tip!! I’m going to try that!
You need to do at least 3 layers. 1 layer let it dry. Second layer let it dry. 3rd layer let it dry. Then paint and peel it off using a toothpick or tack. 1 layer is way too thin and you get the problem in this video.
Hey thanks I’ll try that! Yeah this was a nightmare so much so 3 years later I haven’t used it!
i just use straight liquid latex purchased from costume store, use hairdryer to speed drying, and it just pulls right off
I'm going to have to try that, thank you for imparting your wisdom!
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush the latex dries clear so can be a pain, i sometimes mix mine with a good bit of acrylic paint to dye it, so far have not had any troube with the paint staining my model usualy dye it a bright color like neon green
they advice two coats.easer to remove when thick.
True! Thank you, I would also avoid non flat surfaces.
Deze video is een waarschuwing over het gebruik van Liquid Masking bij miniatuur schilderen. Om precies te zijn; HOE je het NIET moet gebruiken ...
Het is nog steeds een geweldig en nuttig product ... maar het heeft zijn grenzen
I'm not sure how well my Dutch is be here goes:
Goed gezegd, ik ben het met je eens, ik verwachtte dat het net zo nuttig zou zijn bij onregelmatige vormen. Ik had het mis en ik wilde anderen waarschuwen die dezelfde fout zouden kunnen maken. Ik gebruik nu dwaze stopverf om te maskeren en vermijd dit peroduct persoonlijk omdat het me voor het leven heeft getekend.
Hopefully I said it correctly.
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush Did not expect a reaction on a 3 year old video .. but thanks .. Yes i completely understood what you "said" :)
Not quit sure what Dwaze Stopverf would be .. but i think silly putty :) ( its a one on one translation :) )
Sound rather dramatic ... "scared for life" ... but i'm real happy with your video and shared it around n our Dutch community :)
@@ArnolddeGans Thank you I try to always engage with the community, no matter how old the video, I struggled quite a bit on my journey of miniature painting, I not only like to post my success but also my failures to be more realistic as a youtuber. Also, I love the community, I think there are some of the most amazing people that I have ever met are miniature painters you included!
why in earth you will mask a skeleton??? what effect you spect to achieve?? You miss use the product for the porpouse that has been design to, the fault its not in the product.
I was a noob, I didn't know but I learned, the hard way and I wanted to prevent others from making that mistake that I made almost 3 years ago when I made this video.
I just want to buy one before watching your video ^^. How about compare with Mr masking sol?
I need to try Mr. Masking Sol, that being said I'm currently trying something new with liquid mask, it has to do with a weathering technique. I'm working on a video on it that will be out this month.
How can you cleaning the brush after liquid mask?
I buy a pack of 50 brushes off of Amazon, then dedicate one of those brushes to messy stuff like this, Iv'e never attempted to clean the brush. If I were to attempt I think I wold start with water and rinsing it with mild dish washing liquid if it's a synthetic brush. Let me know if this works.
@@TheMiniaturesPaintbrush I did now the same. I marked one brush for this masking. I noticed if i put it not small into the liquid m. than will be easier going down after drying in one piece from the brush.
Basically, just use some common sense. Using it this way is the equivalent of sliding your hand into a narrow hole, making a fist, and wondering why you can't get it back out.
True, I did wish it would work, it’s not as common knowledge as you may think.
why not use conventional soap and then just wash it out with water? Might be messy if you have to handle the piece a lot.... but might come handy in some scenarios...
Wow, good idea! I'll have to try that.
Why not put an eraser in a dremel and use it to remove the mask?
LOL Intense POWER!
More for scale modelling than minis. Though it has put the fear of God into me putting this gear on my aircraft.
For minis, I'd recommend Tamiya tape. Great stuff and easy to cut. The white version is flexible for compound curves
I do use Tamiya tape, often especially on my scale model builds. I just picked up the flexible type, I have it but I haven’t used it yet.
Works great for rc cars
I can imagine with the larger surface, flat areas it would be easier to work with. Thank you for you insight!
It's Good for flat surfaces. Camouflage pattern etc...
I learned that the hard way for sure!
is it possible to use this on plastic models?
Possible yes, the model that was the example was indeed plastic, it was just difficult to work with.
Throw it away. I spend hours on a model only to find out this awful stuff cannot be removed without serious damage.
I thought the same thing, I haven’t touched the stuff for three years. There are a few interesting recommendations in the comments that I haven’t attempted.
*laughs in gunpla*
I did make a mess of things for sure! 😂
this stuff dissolves in water. Just saying.
So does the paint that I use. But I’ll have to try your method. Thank you for your recommendation!
I hope by now, 2021, you've learned that this is an excellent product (actually Abteilung Liquid Mask is a little better) that does, as you said, work on large flat surfaces. Your problem here was you did this job backwards. Why not mask the large coverings of the skeleton horse; so easy to do; and then spray or brush paint everything else in your bone colour. No liquid mask for the hobby industry was ever made to mask tiny undulating, uneven, crevices, like your horse bone surface. Once again, you approached the problem the wong way. Easier still, you could have put masking tape on the horse's 'cloak' and then painted the whole model with bone colour.
Given all that, liquid masks will work well with most uneven surfaces and areas that have engraved lines or texturing that one finds on the wings and fuselages of aircraft or in fine tank or ship detail.
You are not alone, however, many figure painters/makers often complain that products made for plastic kit modelling and painting etc. don't work on their figures. Well, it's pretty obvious to me that there are many branches of hobbies and crafts. Simply go to a general hobby/crafts store and you'll find products that suit you. A sculpting specialty store would have many items that would be ideal for your hobby. It's like me complaining that a sewing machine never works on a plastic model aircraft. Horses for courses and all that. Cheers, BH
Yep, flat surfaces only, I will never use it as I have attempted in the video, I left it up to serve as a warning to others. Flat surfaces only!
Dont buy ballejo liquid mask. It's terrible. Prefer humbrol maskol
I have to try Humbrol. Iv'e always heard great things about them.
The Miniature's Paintbrush It's very good.
Paint chipping effects.
There’s a good idea!
well now I know what NOT to buy! thanks for the info my man
Anytime, happy to help!
BURRRRP!
That, fine sir, smells delicious.
Noobie lol
Yes I was when I made this