Watch This Before Building Stairs With Blocks And Gravel For Your Backyard
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 พ.ย. 2020
- www.homebuildingandrepairs.co... Visit our website today for more ideas to get you through your next home building or repair project. Here's another helpful video about how many problems you could have with C.M.U blocks, soil and gravel filled steps.
- แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I built something pretty much like this. It was always meant to be temporary as I had a much bigger design I planned on doing later. Did 8x16 block. But turned sideways so the holes were on the sides. Cut into the hillside then stacked on a small gravel base (only about 2 inches). Once I dryfit each block in position I used concrete adhesive to bond each block to the one next to it. I also overlapped the next row by 1” and used adhesive there as well.
That was 10 years ago,
I had other stuff come up. Never had them separate but the entire stairway did sink about 1/2”- 1”. I just last week finally ripped it out to start on the bigger landscape project. Almost all the block broke in the center and not where they were glued. That adhesive works amazing.
So would you do it again? I did stairs outside my house and it's a mess. Half are off to the side because they moved and the rest are here and there just so I can make it to where I need to go. I don't want to just toss them and do something else because I bought decor tiles to put on the sides and have this idea in my head but have no idea how to achieve it.
What adhesive did you use to keep them together?
@@dallinnielsen7514 if that's for me, I didn't use any. I will at fix it time though. Probably the concrete adhesive that Jeffery used.
I built something like this and it is still great after 10 years. used a tarp under the gravel base. gravel base about 5 inches. Rear bars through the blocks.
Awesome and thanks for sharing.
@@stairbuilding thank you
I love your videos man.
They have really helped me on my trying to better my craft
I always enjoy comments like yours and keep learning.
If you're gonna pour concrete underneath, just form it up and pour a staircase...
I was thinking this lol
Thanks for sharing your great knowledge and experience with us Sir
You are most welcome and thanks for watching.
Wish I saw this before, lol!
We compacted and used gravel to fill. Still shifting because of erosion. Had it topped with two foot wide pavers, so at least the tripping is minimized. Back to the drawing board
So glad I watched this first!!
Me too.
I did the exact same staircase only I used concrete in the bricks and old gal pipe pounded into the ground between bricks before pouring concrete
I would have compacted earth, weed barrier fabric, 6-10 inches of compacted crushed stone 3/4", then a bed of type S mortar 2-3 inches thick with a strip of Blok-Lok pressed into it, then 8 inch block, filled with concrete or remaining type S. Then whatever step you want on top ( brick, limestone, blue stone, etc.)
I live in Newfoundland Canada and we have a lot of freeze/thaw, so the crushed stone for drainage is important to prevent frost heaving.
Do you just use the gravel for drainage or a system with pipes?
@@stairbuilding Gravel would be fine. It's all on a hill anyway so the water should drain out pretty fast. For something that would get a lot of water built up behind, like a retaining wall, then I would use pipes for drainage along the bottom course of the wall.
I just had contractors come out about 9 months ago to build a Retaining wall, Patio and Steps. I bought the Cinder blocks they laid 5 across for a total of just over 3ft wide. I got them use 16x16 concrete pavers to put on top of each cinder block steps a total of 12 steps and yes they had to cut some of the pavers to fit correctly. What they did was dig out to prep for each one going up because my backyard has a sloped hill then they laid gravel on top of the filldirt and place the cinder blocks on top and then filled them up with gravel for them to be compacted then place the 16x16 paves on top but added adhesive so they stay attached and going down the steps is only about a 5" reach and its not far at all to step down. They have been holding up great and the steps looks amazing!!! If you would like to see how they turned out let me know. The steps are very sturdy for almost a year now and I don't see them moving at all for many more years to come!
Yes send me some pictures and you can get our email address at the website. Thanks for sharing your project.
Do you have photos to share?
Does it still hold up as of now
@nickconfer25 Yes almost 3 years later and still doing fine
Fast settting concrete underneath helps too
You've hit my problem on the head! I have un-compacted fill dirt in the exact location I kinda need but definitely want to build the stairs. Concrete job quoted at $3500, I'm looking for a less costly alternative but I don't want anything unsafe or ugly. Almost at wits end 🤷🏾♂️
I wouldn't suggest building concrete stairs or other stairs sitting on top of un-compacted fill. Maybe a wood framed stairway siting on footing or slab and if the slab moves, you could repair it later.
@@stairbuilding I cannot tell you how much I appreciate your reply! Could I dig out the softest fill and compact the remainder with your best recommended build or just abandon ship?
Sink rebar in the blocks to keep them from moving even if you use quick set
How long rebar is wise?
You can use compacted soil or gravel in this application. You just need to control the lateral shift. With soil, you could use something as cheap as composite scrim. For 12" block, reinforcing the soil at 2" intervals for a 6" substrate should work fine. Granted, different soils/climates will still need additional care. Clay should have at least some sand mixed in for permeability. Drainage is a concern to guard against freeze/thaw shift. A length of mesh wrapped 2" PVC with 1/4" drain holes in the lowest substrate layer of each run should suffice. If you're in an extremely unstable area, or just want additional freeze/thaw stability, you could use post pockets, earth anchors, or even rebar in each cavity as a register. The gravel compacting around them will lock the position. If you don't have any rock to prevent you from drilling... you could drill 2ft deep 6" holes beneath each cavity, set 24" sections of concrete form/pylon tubes in the holes, and fill around you choice of register with gravel. This will avoid virtually all but the worst freeze/thaw impact in most climates without a permafrost layer. As the gravel compacts in the steps, it will just reinforce the vertical stability.
Gravel would BY FAR be the easiest method, albeit slightly more expensive. Simply use the same plastic containment grid they use for gravel driveways... not the flexible geocell, but a product such as Viridis Gravel Grid, Gravalock, TrueGrid, EasyPave, HEXpave, etc.. If the soil is established base cut, you will only need to add a non permeable landscape/geo cloth to the surface of the cut, cascading from top to bottom. Using corner block for the steps will provide a means of vertical integrationfor drainage at the rear of the block. Place the grid on the barrier cloth, pack with gravel, place block, and fill. There will be some settling... but as the gravel compacts more as it settles in the bricks, it will become laterally locked with gravel in the cellular pave grid. Not only will this eliminate all but minute/insignificant lateral roll to any of the block... but with time, will also mitigate any shifting on the plane itself. The best news, is so long as you keep the steps leveled with gravel, they will be virtually unaffected by freeze/thaw shift. Even if water miraculously freezes at saturation, the grid and block will maintain lateral stability throughout the expansion of freeze and recession of thaw.
Im about to attempt a project garden stairway using cement blocks and pavers. Built a 100 step stairway (treated lumber)going down to the lake 15 years ago and its still in reasonably good shape. Ive used large pavers on this stairway and its been nothing but a hassle resetting it annually. Im going to compact a base and drive rebar down a foot or two between each block (6 per step)(15 steps)then use cement in each block. The cost for 90 blocks, brick, mortar is actually fairly minimal(rebar is most expensive). Hopefully I can support it enough to keep it looking good for at least 10 years or so, but Im committed to it now...so Ill come back and post in a couple months to provide an update. I welcome any suggestions, especially about drainage for a sloped stairway on a hill.
Awesome and we will be waiting for an update. Thanks
How did your steps project turn out?
What about using rebar as well for stabilization strength
I am rebuilding my house and this is perfect thank you guys.
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
check local codes, the CMU blocks, may be to high 8x8x16 they are something like 7 3/4? or is 7 7/8"? i dont remember BUT codes / regulations / laws can state 7.5" max distance between each hight of stairs. you could set each block down a little bit but reguardless. check max height of each riser/step. issue also comes up when trying to get say a hand cart up and down stairs, to a wheel chair, to other.
What if we built something like this and drilled in metal rods inside the block for more stability. We don't have a steep slope, we just want to highlight the pathway in an effort to minimise erosion. We are in a sandy river bank. I was hoping to fill the holes with dirt and moss. What do you think?
Helpful videos for sure. I would love to get your opinion on cinder block cellar walkout wall if possible. I have an illustration I can send you to support my question. Basically I need to have 8" walls around the perimeter of my workout stairs. My question is regarding the base of those walls. I'm wondering if the entire wall all the way around has to extend all the way down to the footer of the stairs, or if the base of the wall can change in height as the stairs move upward?
I cannot provide information about structural engineering. However can suggest using concrete footings to support any section of a load bearing stairway using concrete blocks.
@@stairbuilding thanks for getting back to me on this. I do appreciate it. All points noted. Thx again
Would like to have seen the stacked block approach with a full gravel base. Also too can’t really see anyone not having overlap as the courses go up.
I would need more details about stacked block and gravel.
After watching this, I would try using level boards of sheet metal/something sturdy and reasonably durable for the base under the blocks?
You could try it, but I've never seen it done.
I can confirm the issues. I made these stairs. They started pitching forward after two years of use.
Thanks for sharing and bummer for your project.
Would it be possible to stabilize something like this by adding another layer on top, alternating direction on the blocks?
I'm not sure, but I don't think it would help that much.
Could this concrete build work on a concrete patio? I want to replace my front steps on my mobile home with concrete steps. Any thoughts?
I would use another method, but yes, if they are built differently, then it could work better.
damn this was very very good to built😢
I have existing concrete steps, and I want to use cinder blocks over them... what's the best way to keep them from sliding, mortar, stone in between, thoughts please?
I like mortar for concrete blocks to concrete.
Thank you, I want to go that route, but was told mortar would compromise the integrity... but honestly, if building a cinder block wall, we would use mortar not cement cause of the stone... anyway, thoughts on strength and integrity, mortar vs. cement? Thank u for your time
What about capping the entire block with a slab or a formed concrete
I've seen that work just fine as long as the blocks don't sink into soil or move side to side.
I’m thinking of doing something like this. I have a steep hill down to a lake in my yard, and I’m worried about the steps moving.
What if you drive rebar into the ground through the back hole of each cinder block and fill that hole with concrete? Then you could put pavers over the cinder block and no one would ever see the rebar.
My thinking is the rebar will hold the cinder blocks in place for many more years. When it eventually starts to move, I could DIY a flat layer of cement over the whole thing.
Thoughts?
I think it will help, but don't know how much.
I just put the cinder blocks in one row the another row on top to make steps. Tie them with zip ties. Worked great.
I like it, but let us know if the ties fall apart.
Why doesn't putting gravel under the staircase just metaphorically kick the can down the road? Isn't the ground then under that gravel subject to the same problems?
I think they could some concrete and reinforcement
Definitely, I just don't think they will work as well placing them directly on the soil.
@@stairbuilding same it's needs a solid and and waterproof base
Aren't they too tall for steps?
In some areas, yes, however they can be repositioned, cut or notched to make them work.
In my experience, YES! Just enough to make it uncomfortable to go down, up is not too bad. When I redo mine I plan to add a layer on each step to fix that....hopefully....
Why post this method if it’s not recommended
Oh, I love easy answers. To provide a little more thought before doing.
Your right when you say that's not a good way to build a stairway out of blocks. But that's not how contractors build a stairway out of blocks. And that's not what is required by building codes.
Only an idiot would build a block stairway in that manner.
Most contractors build well into the grade soil, the bottom step would be 2 cinder blocks high, with the first layer well underground "8 inches. Fill with rebar and concrete.
Cover (Mason glue ) with pavers, bricks, flagstone etc.
Best bet, call a contractor.
Good cheap video though...gave me a video idea.
Still waiting for that video Mr. Contractor.
Don’t listen to this guy. He’s guessing at everything. Just do it correctly.
Definitely not a good idea.