So I'm not an expert homebrewer...but if your first hop add is at 30...why not adjust your water volume so you don't need to do a 30min boil off before your first addition. You could save some time here boys.
I'm not sure that makes sense in practice though. If my first hop drop was at flameout would I just boil for one minute? I've read some folks do a 30 minute boil with success and maybe it's just habit at this point to do a 60 minute boil but I like knowing I'm boiling off any of flavors or nasties by doing the traditional 60 min.
awesome vid gentlemen. too bad my gen 4 35L is too small to fit a pump upgrade and I don't trust the false bottom so I just a hop spider for insurance. Question for you fine looking folks, knowing we got recirc arms... why do you sparge? I also don't see a lot of brewtubers whirlpool these days, thoughts on that too?
Thanks for the comment, Pat! I didn't even know the pump was too large to fit in the 35L but it was close quarters for my unit so it makes sense, though I'm not 100% sure it wouldn't fit. The reason why I got the pump was because the smaller pump kept clogging during transfer into the fermenter. The false bottom seems to work well for me but like with anything else, it won't catch EVERYTHING. Re: sparging. In theory I do have the space to do no sparge. I think it's just part of my process I've been doing it for so long now. With that said, I have a Spike pump I bought on impulse that I plan to connect to an older system that heats the sparge water so I can easily sparge but I want to dial in my grain absorption rates a bit more first. I whirlpool for any New England style beer and I'll let the beer sit for 10 minutes post cool down in the kettle to let everything settle on all my beers. I hope this helps! L'Chaim!
Also, I did start using the hop spider after the second clog in a row before I purchased the new pump and it seemed to work well. With that said, I'd rather get full hop utilization, though I'm unaware of literature that proves it either way. In honesty, it's not helpful knowledge for you now but I wished I'd bought a bigger system to begin with. I would've saved myself a lot of money!
Yeah... I am definitely sitting back saying I should have gotten the 65L 220 instead of my 35L 110, but hindsight my man.... some day. Thanks for the response. I love your guys' content
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good stuff gentlemen. Good to see Brandon stop by to lend a hand!
NZ motueka is said Mot-U-Aka, good to see you using Kiwi hops, putting this country on the map.
Thanks for watching!!
So I'm not an expert homebrewer...but if your first hop add is at 30...why not adjust your water volume so you don't need to do a 30min boil off before your first addition. You could save some time here boys.
I'm not sure that makes sense in practice though. If my first hop drop was at flameout would I just boil for one minute? I've read some folks do a 30 minute boil with success and maybe it's just habit at this point to do a 60 minute boil but I like knowing I'm boiling off any of flavors or nasties by doing the traditional 60 min.
cool video, loving my pump upgrade.
awesome vid gentlemen. too bad my gen 4 35L is too small to fit a pump upgrade and I don't trust the false bottom so I just a hop spider for insurance. Question for you fine looking folks, knowing we got recirc arms... why do you sparge? I also don't see a lot of brewtubers whirlpool these days, thoughts on that too?
Thanks for the comment, Pat! I didn't even know the pump was too large to fit in the 35L but it was close quarters for my unit so it makes sense, though I'm not 100% sure it wouldn't fit. The reason why I got the pump was because the smaller pump kept clogging during transfer into the fermenter. The false bottom seems to work well for me but like with anything else, it won't catch EVERYTHING. Re: sparging. In theory I do have the space to do no sparge. I think it's just part of my process I've been doing it for so long now. With that said, I have a Spike pump I bought on impulse that I plan to connect to an older system that heats the sparge water so I can easily sparge but I want to dial in my grain absorption rates a bit more first. I whirlpool for any New England style beer and I'll let the beer sit for 10 minutes post cool down in the kettle to let everything settle on all my beers. I hope this helps! L'Chaim!
Also, I did start using the hop spider after the second clog in a row before I purchased the new pump and it seemed to work well. With that said, I'd rather get full hop utilization, though I'm unaware of literature that proves it either way. In honesty, it's not helpful knowledge for you now but I wished I'd bought a bigger system to begin with. I would've saved myself a lot of money!
Yeah... I am definitely sitting back saying I should have gotten the 65L 220 instead of my 35L 110, but hindsight my man.... some day. Thanks for the response. I love your guys' content
@@PatrickBuckles Thank you, buddy! Hindsight for sure. I learned the hard way bro. Haha! Thanks so much for watching. Cheers!!