I have both clutch and brake levers, hands down amazing clutch pull , and adjustment never changes. Best I have ever had and they are a trick piece! Thanks Jeff!!
Long term review here: I purchased the clutch lever 4 months ago, wasn't sure about it at first but I have been loving it. Almost returned it at first, but tried it and liked it pretty quickly. Very easy pull and nice adjustment. I have about 100 hours on it now. I think it's sweet...it definitely works well.
@@slaverace1 you are most welcome Jeff. I ordered it after I saw your video on it a while back. I appreciate the videos you put out on products and your professional opinion.
Lots of comments about copying Midwest. Nope. These are so much better. I have 4 bikes, 2 with auto clutches and all 4 with Rekluse rear hand brakes. I have these levers on all 4 of my bikes. Do the math, 2 levers on the left and 1 on the right. Lots of money, but I would say it is one of the best things I have done to improve easy riding to my bikes in years. I even showed my local KTM store and they installed one on the floor and everyone went nuts. Totally worth the money. And, yes, I bought all 12 levers from Slavens.
Wow, that's a lot of levers! We're super glad you like the levers so much. We have a number of highlights that we show in better detail in our product videos, but one thing that might be worth mentioning is our adjustments can be down without any tools. On the other guy's lever you need to have a tiny tool with you and thread locker
Well….. nice….. I’ve been using Midwest levers…. And on the husky, the clutch lever totally sucks… the position is to far out…. And i contacted Midwest and he told me to use a nail, cut the nail to the same demotion as his “push rod” and then work on the nail length till I got the lever in the location I wanted.. it worked, but now there’s clutch slippage… as for the Midwest levers on my ktm, they’re fine….. Midwest definitely needs to step it up….
Good to see there is another option other than the Midwest levers,which I have on my bikes. They are more expensive than the Midwest levers, wonder how they compare.
I've got the midwest levers. The clutch lever is great but I'm not crazy about the brake lever. Way too much free play before the brake lever engages the master cylinder on my 500 EXC.
@@christopherbeneke2242 please feel free to reach out directly as you should be able to adjust out the free play as we designed the break lever to provide more adjustability than the OEM lever
Yes you are correct the throw will increase in order to achieve a mechanical advantage. And because of that fact, we spent a lot of time developing an ergonomic, long-lasting adjustment feature to allow the rider to dial in the throw for their bike and riding style. One benefit of this is, that the friction zone will increase allowing riders better clutch control.
Is it just me or does it look like the brake lever doesn't engage the microswitch that activates and deactivates the rear brake light? I'm guessing the way it's installed in this video will leave the brake light on 100% of the time.
Great question, The answer is yes, we modeled the brake lever to actuate the microswitch just like OEM. Click the link above to view the image. You will see the short wedge design on the opposite side of the lever, this is what engages with the switch.
There is no way to reduce the pull without increasing the throw. Its passive, it does not generate energy. So that being said, I don't see how this would even work. 125$ for a lever? Wow.
@@slaverace1 its a piece of shaped metal that depresses the plunger when pulled. what am i not understanding? i dont undertand what after market levers offer other than flexibility or liight weight or something.
@@DarkTideOffroad great question. The fundamental difference from the OEM lever is that we change the fulcrum point. This provides a mechanical advantage, but does require further lever travel to effectively dramatically reduce the clutch hole force required. We’ve put together a video to explain this in detail. th-cam.com/video/j6jLohti-Ls/w-d-xo.html
@@AltRiderLLC Thanks just watched. So your lever offers mechanical advantage and tool-less adjustment. So does oem. If you change the fulcrum point, yes it is easier to pull but you have to pull it further, so nothing is gained. As far as the claimed "increased friction zone", I'll try to keep an open mind. With that being said, I just walked over to my KTM and took the rubber boot off my clutch and saw that the plunger engages as soon as the clutch is pulled. So for my bike, there is no "lost travel". Look if you want to design and refine a clutch lever, that's awesome! But just as your allowed to fish for whales ($125), I'm allowed to point it out. PS: KTM clutch tension can be adjusted behind the clutch cover down at the engine... Much better way to go about it, and free.
Currently our levers work with Brembo master cylinders, we'll be releasing a Braktec option later. According to our records you probably have a Braketec master cylinder (you can do a web search to see the visual differences). But they was a lot of inconsistencies in what bikes where shipping with what. Bottom Line: If you have a Brembo master cylinder, then yes. If Braketec, then no
I bought a mid west mountain engineering clutch lever and allegedly due to a design flaw, the retaining bolt walked it's way out while riding and my clutch lever fell off the bike and onto the road at 75mph in the dark on a busy freeway! The owner of the company seemed less interested in investigating why it came off and instead on finding ways to not refund the small purchase price of 80 bucks - I found that pennywise and pound foolish, they manufacture life and death critical vehicle parts and could have learned a lot by reviewing my case instead of thinking about 80 bucks. I'm glad this alternate, hopefully safer, option is now available.
@@nevadahardenduro Hello: We have not had any complaints until yours and I have one on my 500 and it definitely works. If you have the packaging and if the lever still looks new, we will gladly accept it for a return and refund.
@@slaverace1 I certainly appreciate that. I have all the packaging. I will return it once I am back in Vegas. I really don't doubt that it works. Maybe I installed it wrong but I can't imagine that is the case either as I am an old hand as well. Maybe it is because I have a 9mm lunch pump on it? Would that alter its ability to lighten the pull? I haven't tried it with the 10mm as I didn't want to put that back on the bike.
Looks like they copied Midwest Mountain Levers. They probably have the same negative affects. Altrider seems to be knocking off alot of products these days.
Not a knockoff, unless making an adjustable clutch lever is copying. I’ve had both and took off Midwest lever because of the variable preload on the master cylinder piston. This doesn’t happen with the AltRider lever and is much easier to adjust on the fly if needed with the dial and indents.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
I have both clutch and brake levers, hands down amazing clutch pull , and adjustment never changes. Best I have ever had and they are a trick piece! Thanks Jeff!!
Great to hear!
Great to hear you like them so much!
Mahalo for the reply. Trying to get a better feel on my Husky.
Long term review here: I purchased the clutch lever 4 months ago, wasn't sure about it at first but I have been loving it. Almost returned it at first, but tried it and liked it pretty quickly. Very easy pull and nice adjustment. I have about 100 hours on it now. I think it's sweet...it definitely works well.
Thanks for sharing!
@@slaverace1 you are most welcome Jeff. I ordered it after I saw your video on it a while back. I appreciate the videos you put out on products and your professional opinion.
Lots of comments about copying Midwest. Nope. These are so much better. I have 4 bikes, 2 with auto clutches and all 4 with Rekluse rear hand brakes. I have these levers on all 4 of my bikes. Do the math, 2 levers on the left and 1 on the right. Lots of money, but I would say it is one of the best things I have done to improve easy riding to my bikes in years. I even showed my local KTM store and they installed one on the floor and everyone went nuts. Totally worth the money. And, yes, I bought all 12 levers from Slavens.
Hello:
Thank you very much!!!
Wow, that's a lot of levers!
We're super glad you like the levers so much. We have a number of highlights that we show in better detail in our product videos, but one thing that might be worth mentioning is our adjustments can be down without any tools.
On the other guy's lever you need to have a tiny tool with you and thread locker
Well….. nice….. I’ve been using Midwest levers…. And on the husky, the clutch lever totally sucks… the position is to far out…. And i contacted Midwest and he told me to use a nail, cut the nail to the same demotion as his “push rod” and then work on the nail length till I got the lever in the location I wanted.. it worked, but now there’s clutch slippage… as for the Midwest levers on my ktm, they’re fine….. Midwest definitely needs to step it up….
Good to see there is another option other than the Midwest levers,which I have on my bikes. They are more expensive than the Midwest levers, wonder how they compare.
I've got the midwest levers. The clutch lever is great but I'm not crazy about the brake lever. Way too much free play before the brake lever engages the master cylinder on my 500 EXC.
Hello:
The MAC levers are much more refined, have a better feel and are easy to adjust.
@@christopherbeneke2242 please feel free to reach out directly as you should be able to adjust out the free play as we designed the break lever to provide more adjustability than the OEM lever
Reminds me of the Janotech lever - no longer available apparently
The description of their website says it is a mechanical advantage, which would increase the throw. Don’t know if it would be noticeable or not.
Yes you are correct the throw will increase in order to achieve a mechanical advantage. And because of that fact, we spent a lot of time developing an ergonomic, long-lasting adjustment feature to allow the rider to dial in the throw for their bike and riding style. One benefit of this is, that the friction zone will increase allowing riders better clutch control.
Wouldn't just changing to master cylinder out to a 9mm from a 10 work as well. Did that on my 19 300 and am very happy with the result.
That would be better, but it still would not reduce the pull as much as this lever.
Is it just me or does it look like the brake lever doesn't engage the microswitch that activates and deactivates the rear brake light? I'm guessing the way it's installed in this video will leave the brake light on 100% of the time.
Great question, The answer is yes, we modeled the brake lever to actuate the microswitch just like OEM. Click the link above to view the image. You will see the short wedge design on the opposite side of the lever, this is what engages with the switch.
Can you tell me what the second lever is for on the left-hand side under the clutch lever? Thanks.
Could be a alternate rear brake
Hello:
It's a Rekluse left hand rear brake. slavensracing.com/shop/dual-actuated-left-hand-rear-brake-kit-ktm-berg-hqv-rekluse/
@@Jeepboy40 Hey thanks!
@@slaverace1 Hey thanks!
It's the nitrous lever
I have ALT Rider lowering link on my 24 KTM350xcf FE, good quality product, getting levers next.
Thanks for your feedback.
Do they make levers for the 24 gas gas models ?
They are currently working on one for Braktec.
Does it change the throw at all? If it keeps the factory throw with a lighter feel then that's a game changer.
There is no way to reduce the pull without increasing the throw. Its passive, it does not generate energy. So that being said, I don't see how this would even work. 125$ for a lever? Wow.
Hello:
The clutch lever works very well with a great engagement feel and easy to adjust.
@@slaverace1 its a piece of shaped metal that depresses the plunger when pulled. what am i not understanding? i dont undertand what after market levers offer other than flexibility or liight weight or something.
@@DarkTideOffroad great question. The fundamental difference from the OEM lever is that we change the fulcrum point. This provides a mechanical advantage, but does require further lever travel to effectively dramatically reduce the clutch hole force required. We’ve put together a video to explain this in detail.
th-cam.com/video/j6jLohti-Ls/w-d-xo.html
@@AltRiderLLC Thanks just watched. So your lever offers mechanical advantage and tool-less adjustment. So does oem. If you change the fulcrum point, yes it is easier to pull but you have to pull it further, so nothing is gained. As far as the claimed "increased friction zone", I'll try to keep an open mind. With that being said, I just walked over to my KTM and took the rubber boot off my clutch and saw that the plunger engages as soon as the clutch is pulled. So for my bike, there is no "lost travel". Look if you want to design and refine a clutch lever, that's awesome! But just as your allowed to fish for whales ($125), I'm allowed to point it out.
PS: KTM clutch tension can be adjusted behind the clutch cover down at the engine... Much better way to go about it, and free.
Will that lever work on a Husky TE150 2022?
Currently our levers work with Brembo master cylinders, we'll be releasing a Braktec option later.
According to our records you probably have a Braketec master cylinder (you can do a web search to see the visual differences). But they was a lot of inconsistencies in what bikes where shipping with what.
Bottom Line: If you have a Brembo master cylinder, then yes.
If Braketec, then no
@@AltRiderLLC I'd be interested once you make one for the new '24 Huskys w/ Braketec.
@@deep4soul We should have the out in less than 2 months. sorry for the delay,
I bought a mid west mountain engineering clutch lever and allegedly due to a design flaw, the retaining bolt walked it's way out while riding and my clutch lever fell off the bike and onto the road at 75mph in the dark on a busy freeway! The owner of the company seemed less interested in investigating why it came off and instead on finding ways to not refund the small purchase price of 80 bucks - I found that pennywise and pound foolish, they manufacture life and death critical vehicle parts and could have learned a lot by reviewing my case instead of thinking about 80 bucks. I'm glad this alternate, hopefully safer, option is now available.
I bought one for my 21’ 300 xcw. It did absolutely nothing….wish it did. Really wanted to have this thing work. 129 dollars for nothing.
Hello:
Did you contact the retailer where you purchased it?
@@slaverace1 Hey Jeff, I bought it from you guys but never got around to returning it. Always try and buy from y'all first.
@@nevadahardenduro
Hello:
We have not had any complaints until yours and I have one on my 500 and it definitely works. If you have the packaging and if the lever still looks new, we will gladly accept it for a return and refund.
@@slaverace1 I certainly appreciate that. I have all the packaging. I will return it once I am back in Vegas. I really don't doubt that it works. Maybe I installed it wrong but I can't imagine that is the case either as I am an old hand as well. Maybe it is because I have a 9mm lunch pump on it? Would that alter its ability to lighten the pull? I haven't tried it with the 10mm as I didn't want to put that back on the bike.
Looks like they copied Midwest Mountain Levers. They probably have the same negative affects. Altrider seems to be knocking off alot of products these days.
yep sold the midwest cause it has different engagement point depending of the temp of the bike (oil)...which is essentially cooks the clutch
Not a knockoff, unless making an adjustable clutch lever is copying. I’ve had both and took off Midwest lever because of the variable preload on the master cylinder piston. This doesn’t happen with the AltRider lever and is much easier to adjust on the fly if needed with the dial and indents.
@@mototrailzI had the same issue