LMAO. We will charge twice as much to fix this fuck up - don't worry time is on our side. All the hacks and handymen do more harm than good in the grand scheme of things so thanks for failing to understand our trade while thinking you are "hacking" it
Do you have to pay attention to where the yellow and red wires are hooked up , or can you for example hook up the two yellows to the two yellow wires and the two reds to the two reds? (If you cut the wires from the previous unit and simply join the new ones to the old ones)
Great video. I suspect you are in Canada though. In the USA we would have the zone valves installed on the return pipes under the premise that the water would be a little cooler on that side and hence taking a few degrees off the zone mechanism
Hi Andrew, I had my basement (water) baseboard bled twice and still, only one area of the room has heating and rest of the baseboard pipes are very cold. It does not make any sense.
The valve rarely goes bad. It's usually the motor that goes bad. Did you test the valve first? It's easy to do with a pair of pliers. Just switch it on and off. If the water flows when on, and doesn't flow when off, the valve is good.
Hi i like your vireo i got an issue in one of my Zone Valve. from 3 when i turn on the thermostat it for that particular valve it does not start the boiler and i checked the lever in it it is kind of locked and does not move like the other one when i push them the move and then comes back where it was any idea thx
The valve is probably too stiff for the motor to spin in. Change just the valve plate and make sure motor didn't burn out due to strain from stiff valve
Great video Andrew and thanks. I have had another one of these fail and am wondering if there's a way of telling if its the electrical part or the mechanical part behind that's failed? Apologies if you have answered this already
Pull the motor off of the valve and if you can spin the valve by hand you shouldn't have to replace the actual valve. To test the electric motor have someone turn the thermostat to a temp above ambient temp and look at the back of the unit to see if indeed to motor moves. If not. Check thermostat make sure all wires are hooked up properly. If to still no avail something else is wrong. The circulator pump could be bad etc.
Pull the motor off of the valve and if you can spin the valve by hand you shouldn't have to replace the actual valve. To test the electric motor have someone turn the thermostat to a temp above ambient temp and look at the back of the unit to see if indeed to motor moves. If not. Check thermostat make sure all wires are hooked up properly. If to still no avail something else is wrong. The circulator pump could be bad etc.
Could you elaborate on your particular symptoms on why you decided the valve was the issue & not the motor? Would give a little more context on what conditions would cause someone to want to change valve itself. I personally have a continuously spinning hydronic valve (white rodgers 1361-102) that goes 'round & 'round and doesn't stop. Wondering if this is motor based (not likely since it has no issue turning), valve based (can't imagine it's this either since the valve is capable of opening & closing), or my honeywell old-style rotational thermostat.
I'm in the process in switching from Honeywell V8043 series to Taco 570 series. I just find the Taco 570 series to be a far simpler and easier to maintain, not to mention slower at opening/closing preventing water hammer shock through the system. Was curious how much it would cost for a plumber to replace all 5 zone valves and update the controls (3 were bad when I moved in). Was quoted $3700. Nope, I am happy to do it myself for $700 worth of parts and 4 hours labor...
Hey Andrew, my parents are have issues with their heating system like yours not heating the house very well. Are those basebords super hot to the touch because theirs is just really warm not enough to heat a room. Second question is it hard to install one on those hot water boilers for a pretty handy person but ive never done anything like a furnace.
You can and it usually what I do. The only time I change the valve body is if the ball lets water through in the closed position. This can happen if the tolerances between the replacement baseplate ball and valve body and off or the valve body seat is worn.
U want the arrow pointing to the boiler not up to the lines in the house. The valve opens to allow water back into the boiler to be heated then it is sent through the house then back past valves n so on.
Mine were bad on my system. I was out of town and let the old ball and chain call an HVAC. $3700. Not kidding. Had I knew what the issue was I would have done it myself.
Folks do not try this at home. So many things wrong with the video as far as not telling you that its dangerous. And you need to bleed the air out. the auto bleeder is not for a lot of air. For very small amounts.
@@jonhouseman5210 that’s because you don’t know any better. I can’t hold that against you. I’ve been licensed for 21 years. You have to believe the air out doing a different procedure. If someone wanted to really help, they should simply show the real way to do it. That’s all
Good Job from a licensed plumber *Note I would had 1st cut the power to your boiler. Good Job! You have Awesome common sense!
Another great video, Plumbers are losing money from this great video. Thank you so much
Plumbers will gain money from this video. What he did is not right at all. several things wrong here.
LMAO. We will charge twice as much to fix this fuck up - don't worry time is on our side. All the hacks and handymen do more harm than good in the grand scheme of things so thanks for failing to understand our trade while thinking you are "hacking" it
As a plumber, I can tell you that this guy is a moron. He is causing more work for us. Make sure to keep your cheque book ready 😏
Do you have to pay attention to where the yellow and red wires are hooked up , or can you for example hook up the two yellows to the two yellow wires and the two reds to the two reds? (If you cut the wires from the previous unit and simply join the new ones to the old ones)
Thanks!
Great video. I suspect you are in Canada though. In the USA we would have the zone valves installed on the return pipes under the premise that the water would be a little cooler on that side and hence taking a few degrees off the zone mechanism
searching for a diy zone valve replacement. Do the pipes need to be drained before changing? TY
Bud I wish I could buy you a beer right now.
Its a flared connection
Nice video. Thank you
Hi Andrew, I had my basement (water) baseboard bled twice and still, only one area of the room has heating and rest of the baseboard pipes are very cold. It does not make any sense.
Great video! Thank you
The valve rarely goes bad. It's usually the motor that goes bad. Did you test the valve first? It's easy to do with a pair of pliers. Just switch it on and off. If the water flows when on, and doesn't flow when off, the valve is good.
Make sure valve is easy to turn. Should be able to do it with 2 fingers. If it's stiff the motor will die prematurely
Hi i like your vireo i got an issue in one of my Zone Valve. from 3 when i turn on the thermostat it for that particular valve it does not start the boiler and i checked the lever in it it is kind of locked and does not move like the other one when i push them the move and then comes back where it was any idea thx
Thanks great video, one doubt do you need to drain a bit of water off before unscrew the valve or just closing the wayer suply will be enough?
Drew, how did you notice it wasn't working and that it wasn't the electrical
if my zone valve gets stuck open and i changed the motor already does that mean the who thing is dead?
Check thermostat
@@davidmeyer7199 thermostat is good, i replaced the whole thing and its working perfect now. just odd the same one keeps breaking
@@menswearhous if it's a Honeywell that's probley why their quality is not what it once was taco is so much better all around
The valve is probably too stiff for the motor to spin in. Change just the valve plate and make sure motor didn't burn out due to strain from stiff valve
Hi what safety measures do you have to put in place apart from turn water supply off, do you have to turn electrics off?
Shut electric power to circulator pump,or it could burn out.
Great video Andrew and thanks. I have had another one of these fail and am wondering if there's a way of telling if its the electrical part or the mechanical part behind that's failed? Apologies if you have answered this already
I have the same question.
I'd like to know too. I have two zones, no heat in either one. I put my Honeywell valves in manual but ....nothing. No resistance at all and no heat
Pull the motor off of the valve and if you can spin the valve by hand you shouldn't have to replace the actual valve. To test the electric motor have someone turn the thermostat to a temp above ambient temp and look at the back of the unit to see if indeed to motor moves. If not. Check thermostat make sure all wires are hooked up properly. If to still no avail something else is wrong. The circulator pump could be bad etc.
Pull the motor off of the valve and if you can spin the valve by hand you shouldn't have to replace the actual valve. To test the electric motor have someone turn the thermostat to a temp above ambient temp and look at the back of the unit to see if indeed to motor moves. If not. Check thermostat make sure all wires are hooked up properly. If to still no avail something else is wrong. The circulator pump could be bad etc.
Could you elaborate on your particular symptoms on why you decided the valve was the issue & not the motor? Would give a little more context on what conditions would cause someone to want to change valve itself.
I personally have a continuously spinning hydronic valve (white rodgers 1361-102) that goes 'round & 'round and doesn't stop. Wondering if this is motor based (not likely since it has no issue turning), valve based (can't imagine it's this either since the valve is capable of opening & closing), or my honeywell old-style rotational thermostat.
Yooo Rick turtle in the flesh
I'm in the process in switching from Honeywell V8043 series to Taco 570 series. I just find the Taco 570 series to be a far simpler and easier to maintain, not to mention slower at opening/closing preventing water hammer shock through the system. Was curious how much it would cost for a plumber to replace all 5 zone valves and update the controls (3 were bad when I moved in). Was quoted $3700. Nope, I am happy to do it myself for $700 worth of parts and 4 hours labor...
What if my problem is a particular zone going on when the thermostat is supposed to be off?
Replace the zone valve to a normally closed zone valve.
Can you list valve model number and flare valves? Thanks.
thank you great video
What no PTFE or Hawk White in the threads......
Hey Andrew, my parents are have issues with their heating system like yours not heating the house very well. Are those basebords super hot to the touch because theirs is just really warm not enough to heat a room.
Second question is it hard to install one on those hot water boilers for a pretty handy person but ive never done anything like a furnace.
If u are only getting partial heat. The valve is stuck slightly open. In my opinion
Just curious why wouldn't you just take the guts of the old one out, and put the new ball valve in using the same lower casing?
You can and it usually what I do. The only time I change the valve body is if the ball lets water through in the closed position. This can happen if the tolerances between the replacement baseplate ball and valve body and off or the valve body seat is worn.
How come you didn’t re-Teflon the threads?
I believe he said it's pressure fitting. I guess teflon won't be much use here.
what if the arrow is on the opposite side????
U want the arrow pointing to the boiler not up to the lines in the house. The valve opens to allow water back into the boiler to be heated then it is sent through the house then back past valves n so on.
Thanks, AW
Mine were bad on my system. I was out of town and let the old ball and chain call an HVAC. $3700. Not kidding. Had I knew what the issue was I would have done it myself.
No plumbers tape? No locktite? wtf bro?
The flare is actually the point of sealing. I would have put a dab of sealant on those threads but... it worked.
Excellent video thanks. could do without the distracting background muzac.
Forgot Teflon tape or paste
Folks do not try this at home. So many things wrong with the video as far as not telling you that its dangerous. And you need to bleed the air out. the auto bleeder is not for a lot of air. For very small amounts.
Spoken like a true plumber.
So how do you bleed it?
@@forrestleas4221 go to school and work in the field for ten years like we did 😀
@@FamilyChannelfun32 Very much not helpful for those and I mean everyone who will disregard your comments
@@jonhouseman5210 that’s because you don’t know any better. I can’t hold that against you. I’ve been licensed for 21 years. You have to believe the air out doing a different procedure. If someone wanted to really help, they should simply show the real way to do it. That’s all
Good job