Thanks Tom 👍yes sometimes you have to. I had to do similar when testing the solar inverter I repaired before I had any solar panels, and on the fairly recent night vision monoculture I repaired with the 'unknown' voltage regulator part🙂👍
That was a really good effort from you, top-notch troubleshooting. You hit the wall a bit and came up with the led strip as a solution, very nicely done indeed 👏👏 loved the "back to the future" sound effect when you changed the batteries, lol. I could see the scene where the newspaper article changes as marty and the doc changed history, just brill 😊👍👍
Thanks 👍yes I was just having a mess about and learning how to edit video. I was just trying different things 🙂 It's all been a learning curve as I'd not done any video editing before starting repairs on TH-cam.
You are doing just fine for the newer videos, tweaking here and there is doing just fine. The oscilloscope work is brilliant and an extra level for the viewers, it is worth the exta effort as it makes your videos stand out more than others and much more enjoyable 👍😊@@BuyitFixit
@@BuyitFixit batteries wasn’t as good then as they are now. I remember getting a power pack for the mains electric with four multiple plugs that would fit any similar handhelds….the power pack had voltage selection too 😂 these games with LED’s used to eat batteries within a couple of hours.
Yes, I remember those too 🙂I think one of the adapters I had was made by Altai which had the voltage selector and the 4 way plug and even a 9V battery terminal to fit devices that used a PP3 battery.
Nice fault finding and a big success in the end, I really do enjoy and appreciate the work you do in making videos, oh and the stop motion part excellent love it.
Thanks Morten. My son thought it was a bit cringey! I thought it was quite fun, just something a little different. I might add more stuff like that in the future!
I need to fix my vacuum sealer and have yet to find the fault yet. Seems no one does videos on those that I can find heh .i like watching your stuff to give me ideas
Thanks JS. Sometimes it just thinking outside the box a little. I just had an instance refurbishing rear calipers on the wifes car and the piston was seized solid and I had to get creative to get it out. There will probably be a video on it in the next week or two... I'm still putting it together at the moment...
Well, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and video editing too. The little dissolve/fade with the BTTF sound bite probably took longer than performing the whole repair. Even if it's less than 2 seconds of final cut, I know how much effort can go into editing. Many thanks for the vids 😁
Nice fix, even it's not original, it works :) My laptop keyboard gave me trouble recently, the T -key stopped working. Pulled the key cap, and thought it might be similar structure as for example Playstation game controller or TV remote controller, but this looks different. Very very tiny parts and not 100% sure, but looks like one hair thin printed looking wire may be broken. It's just so tiny and there's plastic around it, I didn't even try to resolder it. Might've gone short circuit giving the letter T all the time :D Touched that suspicious looking place with multimeter test lead and indeed resulted the T letter coming on screen even without pressing the center contact looking thing. I still don't fully understand how it actually works, never seen this kind of structure before. One option would've been to replace the original integrated keyboard, but went for easier and cheaper solution and bought external usb keyboard. Of course it's still possible to go back and try to repair the integrated keyboard later.
Thanks Mr JSV. It sounds weird that. Most of the keyboards I've seen (under the key) are just like a resistive membrane with a rubber bounce thingy on the top.
@@BuyitFixit There indeed is a clear rubber kind of thing. Thought that it's the one making the contact, but there's no "carbon" looking peace there. Also the computer side has a tiny "disc" at the center, with 2 tiny wires somehow probably connected to it. Not sure if the key press is sensed from the center or from the perimeter. Nothing seems to press the center disk from the keycap, and even when I pressed it with tool, nothing happened. My laptop is Packard-Bell EasyNote LV, bought it in 2013, so it's quite old by now, but otherwise works.
Most are just a piece of rubber, it's just a spring.. the contacts are usually on the top sheet of membrane and on the bottom sheet of membrane, and pressing the two together results in a connection. No carbon needed.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Membrane_keyboard#/media/File:Inside_Computer_keyboard.jpg
Hi, thank you for posting. I have a partially loose LCD screen of the board. It didn't show you putting the screen back on the board. What would be the correct way for me to do it to fix my connection problem on mine please? I've got about a 3rd blank screen as a result.
see 23:59 you can see the screen sat in the yellow part. If you use some IPA you can remove the zebra strips from the LCD and clean them. Make sure you put them in so they are straight and the lines are at the top and bottom (so they touch the LCD and will make contact with the circuit board). You could also clean the contacts on the circuit board (I use a flat piece of paper sprayed with contact cleaner or IPA might work) and rub the contacts they should go nice and shiny. Hope that helps.
@BuyitFixit Thank you so much for your reply. Had this game from new in the 80s and very keen to fix and having seen your light mid perhaps improve. I have been considering Nintendo Gameboy backlight I've seen on eBay for around a tenner as also an option. Thank you again.
I have 2 of these at home, both with very low backlight levels - I wondered about replacing the actual bulb, would it be possible to source a replacement cold cathode tube to keep it as original as possible and if yes would you know where to suggest to find them (how to specify what I'm looking for w a supplier). I haven't yet detached the bulb from the glued side of the connections but the other end is unmarked -so as a complete novice I am uncertain what exactly I'm looking for!
Not sure if it could be the tube or the driver circuit. It was the transformer had failed on this one I used some LEDs. I'm not sure if you can get a replacement lamp. It might be worth checking / replacing the electrolytic capacitors around that area just in case.
GREAT SCOTT!!! Marty, this device is from 1984 We can't just shove 4 AA Duracells in it. This thing needs 1.21 Jiga-Watts to power the Flux Crapacitor, the Time crystal circuits and the fecking BACKLIGHT. Marty! You keep the Albanians busy, While I steal their Plutonium.
well done. reliable long term solution. you should also disconnect the dc power jag for long term reliability.
Cheers 👍
That tune... ear worm!!! Da de da de de da
Very clever to use the LEDs! That's thinking outside the plastic box.
Thanks Tom 👍yes sometimes you have to. I had to do similar when testing the solar inverter I repaired before I had any solar panels, and on the fairly recent night vision monoculture I repaired with the 'unknown' voltage regulator part🙂👍
That was a really good effort from you, top-notch troubleshooting. You hit the wall a bit and came up with the led strip as a solution, very nicely done indeed 👏👏 loved the "back to the future" sound effect when you changed the batteries, lol. I could see the scene where the newspaper article changes as marty and the doc changed history, just brill 😊👍👍
Thanks 👍yes I was just having a mess about and learning how to edit video. I was just trying different things 🙂 It's all been a learning curve as I'd not done any video editing before starting repairs on TH-cam.
You are doing just fine for the newer videos, tweaking here and there is doing just fine. The oscilloscope work is brilliant and an extra level for the viewers, it is worth the exta effort as it makes your videos stand out more than others and much more enjoyable 👍😊@@BuyitFixit
Thanks 👍yes I do try and go the extra mile 🙂
Nice fix. Keep 'em coming.
Thanks Roger!
Grandstand. BMX. Flyer. Retro. Hand. Held. Game Let’s. Fix. It. !
I had this handheld game for 1983 Christmas 👌
Nice 👍I hope it brought back some nice memories 🙂
@@BuyitFixit batteries wasn’t as good then as they are now. I remember getting a power pack for the mains electric with four multiple plugs that would fit any similar handhelds….the power pack had voltage selection too 😂 these games with LED’s used to eat batteries within a couple of hours.
Yes, I remember those too 🙂I think one of the adapters I had was made by Altai which had the voltage selector and the 4 way plug and even a 9V battery terminal to fit devices that used a PP3 battery.
Me too. I want it. Ack again!
Brilliant fix. Top man
Thanks Peter 👍
Nice fault finding and a big success in the end, I really do enjoy and appreciate the work you do in making videos, oh and the stop motion part excellent love it.
Thanks Morten. My son thought it was a bit cringey! I thought it was quite fun, just something a little different. I might add more stuff like that in the future!
@@BuyitFixit well as a parent isn't everything we do a bit cringe
@@MrEwool Very True!
I need to fix my vacuum sealer and have yet to find the fault yet. Seems no one does videos on those that I can find heh .i like watching your stuff to give me ideas
Thanks JS. Sometimes it just thinking outside the box a little. I just had an instance refurbishing rear calipers on the wifes car and the piston was seized solid and I had to get creative to get it out. There will probably be a video on it in the next week or two... I'm still putting it together at the moment...
Well, I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and video editing too.
The little dissolve/fade with the BTTF sound bite probably took longer than performing the whole repair. Even if it's less than 2 seconds of final cut, I know how much effort can go into editing.
Many thanks for the vids 😁
Thank you Dave. Really appreciate comments like this! :)
Nice fix, even it's not original, it works :)
My laptop keyboard gave me trouble recently, the T -key stopped working.
Pulled the key cap, and thought it might be similar structure as for example Playstation game controller or TV remote controller, but this looks different.
Very very tiny parts and not 100% sure, but looks like one hair thin printed looking wire may be broken. It's just so tiny and there's plastic around it, I didn't even try to resolder it. Might've gone short circuit giving the letter T all the time :D Touched that suspicious looking place with multimeter test lead and indeed resulted the T letter coming on screen even without pressing the center contact looking thing. I still don't fully understand how it actually works, never seen this kind of structure before.
One option would've been to replace the original integrated keyboard, but went for easier and cheaper solution and bought external usb keyboard. Of course it's still possible to go back and try to repair the integrated keyboard later.
Thanks Mr JSV. It sounds weird that. Most of the keyboards I've seen (under the key) are just like a resistive membrane with a rubber bounce thingy on the top.
@@BuyitFixit There indeed is a clear rubber kind of thing. Thought that it's the one making the contact, but there's no "carbon" looking peace there. Also the computer side has a tiny "disc" at the center, with 2 tiny wires somehow probably connected to it. Not sure if the key press is sensed from the center or from the perimeter. Nothing seems to press the center disk from the keycap, and even when I pressed it with tool, nothing happened.
My laptop is Packard-Bell EasyNote LV, bought it in 2013, so it's quite old by now, but otherwise works.
Most are just a piece of rubber, it's just a spring.. the contacts are usually on the top sheet of membrane and on the bottom sheet of membrane, and pressing the two together results in a connection. No carbon needed.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Membrane_keyboard#/media/File:Inside_Computer_keyboard.jpg
@@BuyitFixit Thanks for the link and explanation :)
No problem. Hopefully it's similar to what you were describing.
"One moment please..." lol
😂😂😂
Hi, thank you for posting. I have a partially loose LCD screen of the board. It didn't show you putting the screen back on the board. What would be the correct way for me to do it to fix my connection problem on mine please? I've got about a 3rd blank screen as a result.
see 23:59 you can see the screen sat in the yellow part. If you use some IPA you can remove the zebra strips from the LCD and clean them. Make sure you put them in so they are straight and the lines are at the top and bottom (so they touch the LCD and will make contact with the circuit board). You could also clean the contacts on the circuit board (I use a flat piece of paper sprayed with contact cleaner or IPA might work) and rub the contacts they should go nice and shiny. Hope that helps.
@BuyitFixit Thank you so much for your reply. Had this game from new in the 80s and very keen to fix and having seen your light mid perhaps improve. I have been considering Nintendo Gameboy backlight I've seen on eBay for around a tenner as also an option. Thank you again.
Good job. What do you do with the things you fix?
Some of the tools etc which are useful to me I keep but I really need to have a clear out soon.😂😂
I have 2 of these at home, both with very low backlight levels - I wondered about replacing the actual bulb, would it be possible to source a replacement cold cathode tube to keep it as original as possible and if yes would you know where to suggest to find them (how to specify what I'm looking for w a supplier). I haven't yet detached the bulb from the glued side of the connections but the other end is unmarked -so as a complete novice I am uncertain what exactly I'm looking for!
Not sure if it could be the tube or the driver circuit. It was the transformer had failed on this one I used some LEDs. I'm not sure if you can get a replacement lamp. It might be worth checking / replacing the electrolytic capacitors around that area just in case.
@@BuyitFixit Sounds like that could be 'above my pay grade' 😂
Hi
What led strips did you use ?
Looking to fix mine
It was just a piece of that adhesive white led strip for cupboards etc. I had some lying around from an old project.
Thanks ,I saw you put a resistor inline for the led is that easy to do ?
@@limeskin99 yes, otherwise the LEDs will burn out. I just did trial and error until they weren't too bright.
What kind of resistor would I use for a led 12 strip (im not electrically taught )
You could also have used a cell phone backlight with their respective sheets
Good idea! I had thought of a laptop screen but unfortunately I don't think I've got any broken laptop or phone screens lying around.
GREAT SCOTT!!! Marty, this device is from 1984
We can't just shove 4 AA Duracells in it.
This thing needs 1.21 Jiga-Watts to power
the Flux Crapacitor, the Time crystal circuits and
the fecking BACKLIGHT.
Marty! You keep the Albanians busy,
While I steal their Plutonium.
LOL! Nice one Dave!