I agree! I typically like either a 14mm or a 15-35mm lens for such a thing! I don't believe I mentioned that in this video because not all air shows have static display aircraft so it's not 100% something you should bring along unless you know there's going to be displays.
Regrading show center, aircraft will often do a "photo pass" at the end of their display routines, where they bank at an angle towards the audience and do a slow flyby for everyone to shoot their photos. If you're too far from show center, you won't get the better shots because they'll be entering or exiting their banked angle, and maybe descending/ascending. You can still get creative shots if you're far from show center, but you might miss that "perfect" straight-on shot that always looks great.
I took the "fuck around and find out" approach. Going to airshows and just testing things out. I will say, for gear I used what I had, EOS 1100D and 28-80mm lens. Not ideal but it was what I had, and it worked out better than I expected. As primarily an aviation nerd I was there for the show, any decent photos I got out of it were just a bonus. I also took a more difficult but rewarding approach, in addition to the EOS I took a 1974 Konica Autoreflex T3 with a 70-210mm f3.5 and 80 speed b&w film. You don't get many shots when you do it, but *man* does it feel nice when you pull the film out of the developing tank and see that you absolutely nailed some shots.
Hell yeah! A long time ago I had a camera that could only shoot 3 frames in a second and I feel even when it did that it wasn't as good as single shot so I got real good at trying to time everything haha I agree nailing that single shot is so rewarding!
@@kryptone3032 Really easy, especially at airshows as almost all subjects are relatively far away. All my lenses I have that are designed for manual-only focus have a hard stop at infinity focus. So it will not turn further than that. And infinity tends to be the right setting. So I turn the focus ring as far as it goes and leave it there.
I'm shooting my 2nd air show next weekend, the first one was 2 years ago and went better than I had hoped for, using a D5100 and a Tamron 18-270. This year I'll be taking a D7500 and a 18-400 (I know superzooms aren't great, but it's the longest lens I have) and I'm stoked to give it another try. Thanks for the good tips.
I'm sure that superzoom will be totally fine! the longer reach is more important in quite a few air shows I've been to, so it will be worth taking it! Glad you had fun and enjoy your next one!
Thanks I’m going to the Singapore Airshow in 2 days and it’s my first time in a while holding a camera. It’s going to be my first time photographing at an airshow, this is gonna help a lot :D
My focus settings? I use single point focus, horizontal zone focus, and Animal AF tracking! The Animal seems to be more accurate than the Vehicle tracking on the Canon cameras, so that's what I use the most. The point focus is the best for quickly getting the focus motors to shift in the right spot to see the aircraft, and the Horizontal Zone is if I have multiple aircraft in the shot and I don't know which to prioritize focus on!
I watched it twice. First just to take it in. Then I thought of a couple comments through it, and now commenting/questioning. I shoot RAW and in that mode I have to burst modes. 8 or 20. It seems to me I want to do 8 with shooting prop planes, and 20 when shooting jets. What do you think of use auto-iso for air shows? Mono-pod for heavy lenses, or do that hinder? Thanks.
Hello! thanks for watching it! 8 for prop and 20 for jets is a good game plan, in fact 8 would be what I would choose first for majority of the stuff including jets and then switch to 20 when you hear the announcer mention a really amazing trick is about to happen - the real determining factor here you have to ask is - does that 20fps mean "Electronic" shutter? if so, I would rely on the 8fps mechanical shutter the whole set the most. A good example to use is my Canon R5. It has a 12 shot continuous burst in Mechanical and a 20 in Electronic. Electronic warps the image when I pan the camera too fast due to rolling shutter, so I keep it on 12 shots for most of the time to prevent me warping the image too much. I will switch to the 20 shots whenever I know something super cool is about to happen - like two jets criss-crossing each other - and can keep the camera pointed in one direction and just shoot when the jets come into my frame!
@@TommyDanger5 I was at the Reno Air Races Saturday and your tips definitely help me be a bit more prepared. I got some amazing shots of Bill Stein a stunt performers in a prop plane. It took a LOT OF FAILED images to get some beauties. Can't post them here or I'd share some. Also some AMAZING BLUE ANGEL shots and the Canada Snowbirds were there as well. Haven't even started on those yet.
@@TheArtfulPenguin01 Happy to hear it! Yeah prop planes have LOTS of failed attempts usually because it's hard to get slow enough speeds for the propeller while still keeping the plane sharp. The more you do these shows and practice the less failed shots you'll come home with...unless you burst tons and tons lol in which case you'll have to do lots of culling. Glad you had a good time!
For those on more of a budget, I get fantastic airshow pictures with a Sony A6700 and a 70-350mm lens (105-525mm full frame) for less than half the price of what TD was using. I find 26 mpx is plenty for sharp pictures.
This is not about the camera but about the settings and features to look for to get the shot - I have an affordable camera bodies video and an affordable lens options video for this exact reason! I know not everyone can buy an R5 and a RF 100-500 it's just what I have so it's the example here
I am actually planning on making a short video specifically for fun things you can do in the field, but I did mention some Behind the scenes camera options in one of those super long videos I started out making. So coming soon for additional things you can do!
I believe so! 24x optical zoom sounds like that camcorders focal length can go in without sacrificing a lot of the resolution, so you'll be certainly close to the action! the only downside I see is that if it's a motorized zoom it will move slowly which could mean fast moving jets that go from far to close might be a struggle to keep up with. But hey that could be a fun practice challenge in itself right? Predicting when to zoom and when not to! Good luck comment here to let me know how it goes!
I have in another video on my channel, but the basics are I switch between point focus and horizontal zone focus. And my back button focus is set to "Animal AF" instead of "Vehicle AF" because for my camera it just seems to work more accurately. I think I'll make a short video on this too thanks for the idea!
@@TommyDanger5 I'm going to Warbirds Downunder at Temora Aviation Museum Australia. R5, EF 100-400MkII, RF24-105. Interesting that you recommend Animal AF, I was thinking 'no subject' for focus and maybe going back to Front Button Focus AF and Stabilizer Mode on the lens to 3 as the IBIS should handle panning and vertical movement. I looked for a short video on your settings but it doesn't appear to be available. I like your tips for aircraft as I usually shoot birds. Cheers mate, Australia
@@michaelvankempen4505 yeah sorry I haven't made a video in months making these videos were quite a lot of specific timing to be able to film them in a room like I had and I haven't had the chance to do that anymore in quite some time. Might just run out to the woods and do it and see if I can't get some more content up here including that video about settings. The subject detect could work, but after trying vehicle with too many issues I one time forgot to take it off of Animal Eye AF and it worked like a charm so I found it to be more accurate than most other eye AF modes.
I got the R5 along with Sigma 150-600 mm. Recently, after updating to the latest Canon R5 firmware (2.0), all of my pictures come blurry . I wonder, should I change something in the settings? Can you do a video about what's the best settings for aviation photography? Like, what's the best case? Case 1 or 2? Should I change something? Should I some Customize buttons or so? I've shared the whole TH-cam, and there's nothing. I'm simply hopeless... Thanks
Thanks thats a great Idea! I took a break since this channel wasn't really doing anything, but I want to get back on it so maybe that'll be my first one! Also, if you updated the firmware to 2.0, there's been talk of some models losing accurate focus tracking. I thought they fixed it right now, but google how to roll back firmware and put 1.9 on as a possible solution. Also, the Sigma and Tamron lenses sometimes need a firmware upgrade themselves to work with the Canon R5. There's a "hockey puck" upgrade module that you put the Sigma lens onto and update the firmware to the latest, so if you haven't done that then that could be a possible solution as well.
@@TommyDanger5 Thanks for the reply man! Can't wait for the video!! I'm bit afraid to roll back the firmware, never did this before, Signa haven't released any firmware update since 2020... I wrote to Canon, they said it could happen after you upgrading to the latest firmware, Buy RF lens, and the closed the topic!! Sigma said, Yes, the pictures look blurry, but no one complains about it.. I don't know what to do...
@@anthonyhershko It's not too difficult to do, but if you are nervous about it you can first try to just factory reset your R5. It'll remove all your custom functions and what-not so you'll have to annoyingly put them all back in, but in past firmware updates I've done this whenever my focus was off and it seemed to correct it. Other people have said it doesn't work, but from personal experience it worked at least twice for me so its worth a shot.
you mean when you have to bump the ISO up to compensate for the faster shutter? not really no. Keep in mind when you are panning and the jets are moving quickly there is a good chance parts of your image can get soft especially when moving the camera around quickly. Having a 2000+ shutter speed locks anything that happens into place even if your reaction time meant moving the camera rapidly by. 800 ISO these days the camera will handle that just fine and I generally don't travel higher than 1600 in most cases unless it's a Sunset show. Also this is a starting spot to get you in a good place to take shots at an Air Show. If you are concerned about noise, you can drop the ISO down and decrease the shutter speed as you'd prefer, but keep in mind you might find some of the images can get softer based on how fast the jet is moving in relation to how fast you are and thus have less keepers.
800 isn't high really in modern cameras these days, and it's a starting point. Sometimes it's 500, sometimes its 1600. If you'd prefer to do auto ISO you can - the benefit to that is you will get the lowest possible ISO setting when it works, but the disadvantage is it could spike high if you don't have your ISO max range restricted to a lower value. Honestly I rarely use anything auto as I'd rather trust my methods than rely on the camera to guess for me. The goal is to help expose the shadows a little more underneath the aircraft, so yeah if you want do the thing, but I recommend find an ISO value you are happy with and leave it at that.
a long lens! seriously any are good as long as you are using a lens thats 300mm or higher! It really depends on your budget but I would recommend a telephoto zoom lens that can go up to 300, 400, 500, or even 600!
What are the camera settings please do I use Av p or TV do I put the subjects in none or vehicles and do I disable eyes focus,I try taking airliners but I just can't get them sharp I need the full settings if anyone can help please.
I believe I said this in the video, but I use animal eye focus and full Manual mode. You can use TV if you want to ensure the shutter speed stays fast to keep the airline from getting motion blur.
on a side note, if your camera is really noisy just over 800 iso, then it must not be a very new sensor I'm assuming? the newer the camera the easier it handles the noise these days and looks completely fine, but if you cannot upgrade your camera you can use Topaz denoise with the settings REALLY low or the Lightroom Denoise if you have that program
@TommyDanger5 I have a 77D few years old so that may be the case. I just updated Lightroom and now have the desnoise feature. It is absolutely effective. Thank you for taking the time, I will be traveling to attend the Battlecreek airshow this weekend and will definitely use your suggestions.
As an experienced snapper the one issue I always get with airshows is grey washed out sky's. In the UK we don't often get skys like your video. Maybe it's just a Nikon trait but it's very annoying. 🤦🏻♂️
I mean the flat blue tends to be annoying too, snap enough of that and the white balance seems to go off into some magenta range its not great either. The real ideal is when the clouds are scattered! One air show I regularly go to typically has overcast grey in the sky and for that I shoot at a higher shutter speed (like 1/3200) to help add more contrast to the aircraft but yeah it's still a struggle for me too when the sky is all grey.
Im not sure why when you move you have lines on you 2:20. It gets REALLY distracting I realize now that this is only affecting 4K Playback via TH-cam. I feel like they have GIMPED the 4k videos somehow. :( absolutely shocking
Oh wow you are right!! What the heck I never saw it before like that. Maybe because I purposefully had the focus on the table at the moment, so the 4K bump is putting artifacts on anything not in focus? I dunno but that is unfortunate as I cannot change it myself. Thanks for pointing that out!
'All you need' is a $3k camera that uses expensive memory cards and a $2700 lens! So $6k in equipment at a minimum! That's when I quit watching. Try making a video on how to get reasonable results with a decent prosumer camera and a lens under $1k!
Oh also if you listen it says what focal lengths are important, what fps your camera should have, and what speeds your memory cards should be capable of. This can all be done at a lower price point. That was kind of the point of the video and you missed it because you looked at what I have on the table as examples of what I have.
There is a system that will do what you are asking for. You can buy a warrantied used Olympus 75-300mm f4.8-6.7 lens for about $385 and an Olympus E-M5 Mk III body for about $680, or $1,065 total. With the Micro Four Thirds system 2x crop factor that lens gives the equivalent view of a 150mm to 600mm FF lens, and it's only 4.50 inches (116.5mm) long and weighs 423g. The E-M5 Mk III is a fully weather sealed prosumer body which has tech many other newer cameras still don't have, like a ProCapture (pre-shutter) capture of 14 frames, 10fps mechanical shutter, 30fps electronic shutter, 6.5 stops of IBIS, self-cleaning sensor, 50mp Hand Held High Resolution mode images, and 80mp tripod-mounted High Resolution mode, focus stacking, focus bracketing, focus peaking, AF bracketing, smart-phone app control and image transfer/editing, 4k video, and many other capabilities. All of this will fit into a really small camera bag and not break the bank or your back. And, you can get some really impressive air show photos. 👍
![เปิด อาณาจักร หมื่นล้าน "สาระตั้ม" l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3XE0nPF4YkQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Always good to have a wide angle lens for walking around before/after the airshow to get those planes that are on display.
I agree! I typically like either a 14mm or a 15-35mm lens for such a thing! I don't believe I mentioned that in this video because not all air shows have static display aircraft so it's not 100% something you should bring along unless you know there's going to be displays.
Regrading show center, aircraft will often do a "photo pass" at the end of their display routines, where they bank at an angle towards the audience and do a slow flyby for everyone to shoot their photos. If you're too far from show center, you won't get the better shots because they'll be entering or exiting their banked angle, and maybe descending/ascending. You can still get creative shots if you're far from show center, but you might miss that "perfect" straight-on shot that always looks great.
This 100%! Most of the best straight-level shots happen either right at show center or very close to it!
I took the "fuck around and find out" approach. Going to airshows and just testing things out. I will say, for gear I used what I had, EOS 1100D and 28-80mm lens. Not ideal but it was what I had, and it worked out better than I expected.
As primarily an aviation nerd I was there for the show, any decent photos I got out of it were just a bonus.
I also took a more difficult but rewarding approach, in addition to the EOS I took a 1974 Konica Autoreflex T3 with a 70-210mm f3.5 and 80 speed b&w film. You don't get many shots when you do it, but *man* does it feel nice when you pull the film out of the developing tank and see that you absolutely nailed some shots.
Hell yeah! A long time ago I had a camera that could only shoot 3 frames in a second and I feel even when it did that it wasn't as good as single shot so I got real good at trying to time everything haha I agree nailing that single shot is so rewarding!
How is it focusing manually with the film camera
@@kryptone3032 Really easy, especially at airshows as almost all subjects are relatively far away. All my lenses I have that are designed for manual-only focus have a hard stop at infinity focus. So it will not turn further than that. And infinity tends to be the right setting.
So I turn the focus ring as far as it goes and leave it there.
I'm shooting my 2nd air show next weekend, the first one was 2 years ago and went better than I had hoped for, using a D5100 and a Tamron 18-270. This year I'll be taking a D7500 and a 18-400 (I know superzooms aren't great, but it's the longest lens I have) and I'm stoked to give it another try. Thanks for the good tips.
I'm sure that superzoom will be totally fine! the longer reach is more important in quite a few air shows I've been to, so it will be worth taking it! Glad you had fun and enjoy your next one!
I will be in Florida next April at Sun n Fun. See you there!
Looking forward to it!
Thanks for your great advice. 😊
Thank you! Hope you have a successful time out there!
Incredible photos! Thank you so much for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
Hi Tommy thank for all your advise & continuing with your helpful videos
Absolutely! Happy to help!
Thanks I’m going to the Singapore Airshow in 2 days and it’s my first time in a while holding a camera. It’s going to be my first time photographing at an airshow, this is gonna help a lot :D
Happy to help! Hope you get some amazing stuff out there!
Great video!
Thank you!
Going to Travis AFB for their airshow, cant wait to take photos of the display jets and also the ones flying above! Thanks for the great advice
I'll be there too! Super excited for it!
Thank you, sir.
Great post. What are your focus settings? Thank you.
My focus settings? I use single point focus, horizontal zone focus, and Animal AF tracking!
The Animal seems to be more accurate than the Vehicle tracking on the Canon cameras, so that's what I use the most.
The point focus is the best for quickly getting the focus motors to shift in the right spot to see the aircraft, and the Horizontal Zone is if I have multiple aircraft in the shot and I don't know which to prioritize focus on!
I watched it twice. First just to take it in. Then I thought of a couple comments through it, and now commenting/questioning. I shoot RAW and in that mode I have to burst modes. 8 or 20. It seems to me I want to do 8 with shooting prop planes, and 20 when shooting jets. What do you think of use auto-iso for air shows? Mono-pod for heavy lenses, or do that hinder? Thanks.
Hello! thanks for watching it!
8 for prop and 20 for jets is a good game plan, in fact 8 would be what I would choose first for majority of the stuff including jets and then switch to 20 when you hear the announcer mention a really amazing trick is about to happen - the real determining factor here you have to ask is - does that 20fps mean "Electronic" shutter? if so, I would rely on the 8fps mechanical shutter the whole set the most.
A good example to use is my Canon R5. It has a 12 shot continuous burst in Mechanical and a 20 in Electronic. Electronic warps the image when I pan the camera too fast due to rolling shutter, so I keep it on 12 shots for most of the time to prevent me warping the image too much. I will switch to the 20 shots whenever I know something super cool is about to happen - like two jets criss-crossing each other - and can keep the camera pointed in one direction and just shoot when the jets come into my frame!
@@TommyDanger5 I was at the Reno Air Races Saturday and your tips definitely help me be a bit more prepared. I got some amazing shots of Bill Stein a stunt performers in a prop plane. It took a LOT OF FAILED images to get some beauties. Can't post them here or I'd share some. Also some AMAZING BLUE ANGEL shots and the Canada Snowbirds were there as well. Haven't even started on those yet.
@@TheArtfulPenguin01 Happy to hear it! Yeah prop planes have LOTS of failed attempts usually because it's hard to get slow enough speeds for the propeller while still keeping the plane sharp.
The more you do these shows and practice the less failed shots you'll come home with...unless you burst tons and tons lol in which case you'll have to do lots of culling.
Glad you had a good time!
Were you at the Miami airshow this past season?
I sure was! I'll be there again this year too!
@@TommyDanger5 i may have talked to you a few times. I was there as well. I hope to be there again this year.
For those on more of a budget, I get fantastic airshow pictures with a Sony A6700 and a 70-350mm lens (105-525mm full frame) for less than half the price of what TD was using. I find 26 mpx is plenty for sharp pictures.
This is not about the camera but about the settings and features to look for to get the shot - I have an affordable camera bodies video and an affordable lens options video for this exact reason! I know not everyone can buy an R5 and a RF 100-500 it's just what I have so it's the example here
p.s. You mentioned Fun Things to do in the field. Is that it's own video, or part of another of the air show videos?
I am actually planning on making a short video specifically for fun things you can do in the field, but I did mention some Behind the scenes camera options in one of those super long videos I started out making. So coming soon for additional things you can do!
I'm planning to take videos instead of photos. Do you think I could get by with just a 4K 24x optical zoom camcorder?
I believe so! 24x optical zoom sounds like that camcorders focal length can go in without sacrificing a lot of the resolution, so you'll be certainly close to the action!
the only downside I see is that if it's a motorized zoom it will move slowly which could mean fast moving jets that go from far to close might be a struggle to keep up with. But hey that could be a fun practice challenge in itself right? Predicting when to zoom and when not to!
Good luck comment here to let me know how it goes!
Please share the Canon R5 autofocus settings you use for airshows.
I have in another video on my channel, but the basics are I switch between point focus and horizontal zone focus. And my back button focus is set to "Animal AF" instead of "Vehicle AF" because for my camera it just seems to work more accurately. I think I'll make a short video on this too thanks for the idea!
@@TommyDanger5 Thank you! What do you mean by horizontal zone focus? I think a specific video about that would be helpful.
@@marcioslsouza I'm in the process of filming/editing a focus mode short video now! I'll post it as soon as I can to help explain it!
@@TommyDanger5 I'm going to Warbirds Downunder at Temora Aviation Museum Australia. R5, EF 100-400MkII, RF24-105. Interesting that you recommend Animal AF, I was thinking 'no subject' for focus and maybe going back to Front Button Focus AF and Stabilizer Mode on the lens to 3 as the IBIS should handle panning and vertical movement. I looked for a short video on your settings but it doesn't appear to be available. I like your tips for aircraft as I usually shoot birds. Cheers mate, Australia
@@michaelvankempen4505 yeah sorry I haven't made a video in months making these videos were quite a lot of specific timing to be able to film them in a room like I had and I haven't had the chance to do that anymore in quite some time.
Might just run out to the woods and do it and see if I can't get some more content up here including that video about settings.
The subject detect could work, but after trying vehicle with too many issues I one time forgot to take it off of Animal Eye AF and it worked like a charm so I found it to be more accurate than most other eye AF modes.
I got the R5 along with Sigma 150-600 mm. Recently, after updating to the latest Canon R5 firmware (2.0), all of my pictures come blurry . I wonder, should I change something in the settings?
Can you do a video about what's the best settings for aviation photography? Like, what's the best case? Case 1 or 2? Should I change something?
Should I some Customize buttons or so? I've shared the whole TH-cam, and there's nothing. I'm simply hopeless...
Thanks
Thanks thats a great Idea! I took a break since this channel wasn't really doing anything, but I want to get back on it so maybe that'll be my first one!
Also, if you updated the firmware to 2.0, there's been talk of some models losing accurate focus tracking. I thought they fixed it right now, but google how to roll back firmware and put 1.9 on as a possible solution.
Also, the Sigma and Tamron lenses sometimes need a firmware upgrade themselves to work with the Canon R5. There's a "hockey puck" upgrade module that you put the Sigma lens onto and update the firmware to the latest, so if you haven't done that then that could be a possible solution as well.
@@TommyDanger5 Thanks for the reply man!
Can't wait for the video!!
I'm bit afraid to roll back the firmware, never did this before,
Signa haven't released any firmware update since 2020...
I wrote to Canon, they said it could happen after you upgrading to the latest firmware,
Buy RF lens, and the closed the topic!!
Sigma said, Yes, the pictures look blurry, but no one complains about it..
I don't know what to do...
@@anthonyhershko It's not too difficult to do, but if you are nervous about it you can first try to just factory reset your R5. It'll remove all your custom functions and what-not so you'll have to annoyingly put them all back in, but in past firmware updates I've done this whenever my focus was off and it seemed to correct it. Other people have said it doesn't work, but from personal experience it worked at least twice for me so its worth a shot.
@@TommyDanger5
Already did a factory reset, still the same...
How blurry are the images? There is micro focus correction in camera you can do.
Won’t having a shutter speed at above 2000 just create unnecessary noise?
you mean when you have to bump the ISO up to compensate for the faster shutter? not really no. Keep in mind when you are panning and the jets are moving quickly there is a good chance parts of your image can get soft especially when moving the camera around quickly. Having a 2000+ shutter speed locks anything that happens into place even if your reaction time meant moving the camera rapidly by. 800 ISO these days the camera will handle that just fine and I generally don't travel higher than 1600 in most cases unless it's a Sunset show.
Also this is a starting spot to get you in a good place to take shots at an Air Show. If you are concerned about noise, you can drop the ISO down and decrease the shutter speed as you'd prefer, but keep in mind you might find some of the images can get softer based on how fast the jet is moving in relation to how fast you are and thus have less keepers.
@@TommyDanger5 oh ok thank you very much
Why such a high ISO for shooting jets? Do you recommend Auto ISO
800 isn't high really in modern cameras these days, and it's a starting point. Sometimes it's 500, sometimes its 1600.
If you'd prefer to do auto ISO you can - the benefit to that is you will get the lowest possible ISO setting when it works, but the disadvantage is it could spike high if you don't have your ISO max range restricted to a lower value. Honestly I rarely use anything auto as I'd rather trust my methods than rely on the camera to guess for me.
The goal is to help expose the shadows a little more underneath the aircraft, so yeah if you want do the thing, but I recommend find an ISO value you are happy with and leave it at that.
I have the Canon EOS R7. What is the best Lens for aviation photografie ?
a long lens! seriously any are good as long as you are using a lens thats 300mm or higher! It really depends on your budget but I would recommend a telephoto zoom lens that can go up to 300, 400, 500, or even 600!
What are the camera settings please do I use Av p or TV do I put the subjects in none or vehicles and do I disable eyes focus,I try taking airliners but I just can't get them sharp I need the full settings if anyone can help please.
I believe I said this in the video, but I use animal eye focus and full Manual mode. You can use TV if you want to ensure the shutter speed stays fast to keep the airline from getting motion blur.
Very grainy at >800 ISO. how do you address that
Lightroom's denoise with a value level of 25-30!
on a side note, if your camera is really noisy just over 800 iso, then it must not be a very new sensor I'm assuming? the newer the camera the easier it handles the noise these days and looks completely fine, but if you cannot upgrade your camera you can use Topaz denoise with the settings REALLY low or the Lightroom Denoise if you have that program
@TommyDanger5 I have a 77D few years old so that may be the case.
I just updated Lightroom and now have the desnoise feature. It is absolutely effective.
Thank you for taking the time, I will be traveling to attend the Battlecreek airshow this weekend and will definitely use your suggestions.
As an experienced snapper the one issue I always get with airshows is grey washed out sky's. In the UK we don't often get skys like your video. Maybe it's just a Nikon trait but it's very annoying. 🤦🏻♂️
I mean the flat blue tends to be annoying too, snap enough of that and the white balance seems to go off into some magenta range its not great either. The real ideal is when the clouds are scattered!
One air show I regularly go to typically has overcast grey in the sky and for that I shoot at a higher shutter speed (like 1/3200) to help add more contrast to the aircraft but yeah it's still a struggle for me too when the sky is all grey.
Im not sure why when you move you have lines on you 2:20. It gets REALLY distracting
I realize now that this is only affecting 4K Playback via TH-cam. I feel like they have GIMPED the 4k videos somehow.
:( absolutely shocking
Oh wow you are right!! What the heck I never saw it before like that. Maybe because I purposefully had the focus on the table at the moment, so the 4K bump is putting artifacts on anything not in focus? I dunno but that is unfortunate as I cannot change it myself. Thanks for pointing that out!
'All you need' is a $3k camera that uses expensive memory cards and a $2700 lens! So $6k in equipment at a minimum! That's when I quit watching. Try making a video on how to get reasonable results with a decent prosumer camera and a lens under $1k!
I mean you can, but this isn't the setup I have, so I can't show you what I dont have.
Oh also if you listen it says what focal lengths are important, what fps your camera should have, and what speeds your memory cards should be capable of. This can all be done at a lower price point. That was kind of the point of the video and you missed it because you looked at what I have on the table as examples of what I have.
There is a system that will do what you are asking for. You can buy a warrantied used Olympus 75-300mm f4.8-6.7 lens for about $385 and an Olympus E-M5 Mk III body for about $680, or $1,065 total. With the Micro Four Thirds system 2x crop factor that lens gives the equivalent view of a 150mm to 600mm FF lens, and it's only 4.50 inches (116.5mm) long and weighs 423g. The E-M5 Mk III is a fully weather sealed prosumer body which has tech many other newer cameras still don't have, like a ProCapture (pre-shutter) capture of 14 frames, 10fps mechanical shutter, 30fps electronic shutter, 6.5 stops of IBIS, self-cleaning sensor, 50mp Hand Held High Resolution mode images, and 80mp tripod-mounted High Resolution mode, focus stacking, focus bracketing, focus peaking, AF bracketing, smart-phone app control and image transfer/editing, 4k video, and many other capabilities. All of this will fit into a really small camera bag and not break the bank or your back. And, you can get some really impressive air show photos. 👍