Felling Big Oak Trees For Lumber.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 20 ก.ย. 2024
- I drop 3 large oaks to mill lumber for an upcoming shop addition. 2 went well, 1...NOT SO MUCH!
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Your meticulous explanations elevate your channel. Keep up the good work! It is hard to find truth these days. Your videos are refreshing.
I was a professional Tree-Faller here in New Zealand for nearly 30 years. Your execution on the felling was not perfect, but your principles were sound.
An option to maintain the integrity and strength of the Hinge-wood when dealing with heavy lean is to plunge cut from the sides (do the heavy side first), then release the back at a higher level than the bore cut. This ‘Bore and Release’ does two things; it releases the tension slowly, and it greatly reduces the chance of splitting and extremely dangerous “Barber Chair”.
Another tip is to lower the angle of your top cut on the Scarf. The scarf will close up sooner and snap the Hinge-wood before the tree hits the ground helping prevent damage when the tree rolls. Wing Cuts will also prevent side-splitting as the tree hits the ground.
I love your videos, I enjoy every minute.
with a leaning tree like that leave enough hinge to not pinch your saw, its only going the way its leaning. No need for wedges and splitting a tree is not safe, just plunge to be safe.
you and your saw are too
slow for you to not plunge cut. hope u manage to stay alive,bro.
retired professional.
Put a dutchman in it & fall it against it's lean. By the time it's cut up enough to commit, you'll be left with a cigarette pack's worth of holding wood in the end of the hinge. New Zealand ain't got nothing as bust happy as whiteoak in the winter...
Medical directive would be a great idea.
Agreed, boring the hinge could have prevented most of the trouble with #1. Terry Hale provides the most detailed and methodical explanation I've ever seen.
th-cam.com/video/tGLV4AcyYXw/w-d-xo.html
I would add, the center of the hinge provides little directional control. Hale covers this in another video. I would go ahead and plunge it out, even in case of a moderate side lean. Maybe leave some extra meat on the uphill side.
Hope you like the video. How to fell dead trees, which adds a lot more danger, here: th-cam.com/video/iZUqw302dRg/w-d-xo.html. My whole chainsaw playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLHACLo2Ax7LEx3ZdNuZC3bcnpVgFxRYY9.html. Have an awesome weekend everybody!
What state are you in?
please don't add music, its annoying, TY
You really should reach out to more content creators and build your channel through collaborations. I know its annoying to deal with different personalities.
11
Great job! I’ve learned a lot watching. The last tree you cut, you first cut a protruding piece. That would be a great piece to send to Phil Anderson at Shady Acres Woodshop. He is a fantastic wood turner and creates beautiful natural edge pieces.
A Washington native (White not Indian), Roger, taught me in 1983 how to fell tall, large Pines near property he & his friends owned in North Bend WA. He used a 48" bar Stihl chainsaw. He taught me to use it that day and how to make a tree fall where you want.
Same as you do.
I'm a 70-year-old retired Stagehand these days. Been retired from Stagehands' Union since 1996 & fully retired since 2013.
Not long after returning to my hometown of Las Vegas, NV in 1984, I had need of what Roger taught me. A customer of my dad, Melvin, had a tree they wished removed from their yard. I don't recall the reason, just that I & a friend would earn $$ per hour to do it, since I had mentioned that someone showed me how to do it.
The home was on a standard building lot of the time of 70' X 100', so the back yard where the tree was located was quite small with numerous fruit trees and fences to avoid damaging. I felt confident about this challenge, considering the trees' size (a large Elm apx. 35' high X 20" thick at the base.) I chose to make the final cut apx. 36" from the ground. Like you though, I could see the trees height would cause collisions with the fruit trees and fences.
Therefore, I deduced it would be necessary to cut the top limbs as well as some of the trunk.
Being a "pup" at a very youthful 30 years old, I felt confident climbing the tree to cut the limbs. No Boom or Lift Basket could be employed as no access was possible. I was disappointed by this as I VERY much enjoyed using, what we Stagehands called a "Cherry Picker."
So, using a few ropes & knots (NO! stagehands ARE NOT Sailors, BUT MY DAD WAS!) I was able to both climb the tree and secure myself safely.
After topping the tree, I then determined the best place to land the trunk, which was now only 14' tall. I was so confident; I placed an empty Coke can on the ground where I predicted the top of the tree would land.
Eureka! I SMASHED that Coke can under the first foot of the top of the tree! Whoop!! Damn, I'm good! Thanks, Roger!!!
I got that feeling you had when you fell on the ground after you felled that Beech tree. Fo Sho!
Upon moving to Missouri in 1998 after acquiring 27 Acres of raw land to build TWO homes on, I learned a LOT MORE about felling trees safely. Yes. I made a few mistakes, but none that caused injury.
That is until I relapsed from alcoholism and began drinking again. Between April 2004 and Nov 2009, I suffered TWO accidents, WHILE DRINKING, using the chainsaw. A Sthil Farm Boss, I don't recall the size, but it came with a 24" bar. BOTH were "step-through" types when cutting felled trunks into firewood lengths. Each tore my Jeans and opened a substantial wound above my LEFT kneecap. LEFT is important to note as it is the one MOST AT RISK when cutting logs on the ground (if you are right-handed). Thanks to my fast reflexes, neither cut the bone nor did serious damage. Nothing more than 4-6 stitches to repair the flesh wound.
I got lucky both times.
My THIRD SCREW-UP occurred during this ALCOHOLIC relapse, when I mistakenly discharged my SUPPOSEDLY empty .357 Mag Blackhawk Ruger Revolver into my left ankle. Yes, I really shot myself in the foot on that one! YES, I still have a working foot.
It was a FMJ Target round, not my normal Hollow point rounds for piercing flak-jackets for protection. Yes, this was pre-Y2K.
I was prepared, that's why I left Vegas. 'Nuff said.
Do I need to ADD any SAGE ADVICE about alcohol & weapons, driving or dangerous tools? I hope not. I hate typing.
Thankfully, I've survived those and other mishaps, some drunk - some not, and now at 70, I get to kick back and enjoy watching MANY videos of others doing things I USED TO DO & things I NEVER HAVE DONE, but would if it were 1983, or 1993 or even 2003. But NOT 2023, thank you.
Now, to your video production expertise. You, or your wife, might be Fellow Travelers (no pun) in that realm. I worked more than 22+ years in the Entertainment business in Vegas. This includes many years in A/V & Film Production, and post-production for VISUAL & VIDEO display systems of the day.
Kudos for the editing and aerial shots to augment your presentation, as well as the quality of the video images, the stills, and YES, your musical choices and balancing of the audio level. Se Magnifique! Bravo!!
I've NO intention of doing these vigorous & strenuous activities again. Yet, in my sobriety and aging I see things in your videos and my memories reflections' that would have made this City Boys' transition to Rural life a HELL OF A LOT EASIER if your videos had been available to me THEN! Where the Hell where you when I REALLY needed you??
I also like to teach.
Over the many years I have shared my knowledge & experience with co-workers, friends & others in many professions. Yes, I've had several and they are as diverse & technical as they come. I love a challenge and TAMING THE LAND ranks among the most demanding I have ever met. Multi-Media, extravagant production shows & Enterprise level Networks and Servers are challenging, but once tamed, they submit to my authority.
Nature does NOT.
You can't don't just clear & build. That's the initial HARD part, and satisfying to accomplish but...Now, maintain it, buddy.
That's REAL WORK every day to MAINTAIN!
I have NO INTENTION of installing an HVAC/Heat Pump, but I guarantee you I'll watch just to learn how. Like you, I'm that way!
I'm curious.
David
"..old Stagehands never die...we just fade out........."
@3:09 as other commenters noted, a plunge cut from the sides, with a proper amount of hinge wood, is more safe to prevent splitting in general and barber chair splitting, especially for trees that lean and for trees with rot in the middle.
after the plunge cut is made from the sides, the tree is released to fall by cutting the "back strap".
Thats what i thought. I thought it was better to plunge cut on a leaning tree to prevent barber chair, but he said the opposite. That he did not want to plunge because it was leaning?
What you do doesn't seem to make a difference. It's how you do it that keeps us coming back.
The drone shots add so much more context to this - what an awesome video!
Nice fell. I've learned a lot of tree safety just watching you, not that I plan on needing it,.. at the very least I know when I see someone doing something dumb trying to cut a tree down now
The strength of wood is incredible. I'm always amazed by how much tree you can cut out with that wedge and the tree can still stand. Amazing stuff!
Tree guy here, Leaning trees are the perfect situation to utilize a plunge cut. You can thin your hinge for less tear/breakout on the log and it helps to avoid barberchairing and splitting up the trunk.
Same thing I was going to comment after watching. I prefer plunge cutting heavy leaning trees because of that..
I've been a pro faller 42 years. I seen some other pros leaving comments saying much the same thing, but I will add that cutting big veneer white oak is the mainstay of my business. Won't even talk about the first one, you beat yourself up enough and know exactly what you done wrong. Little point I will add for anyone is you can't chase cut hardwood like white oak much more than a few inches of the diameter, in other words, center punched, heavy side cut up to the hinge and only chasing a side strap on a tree with hard side lean but little to no forward lean.
Second tree was really good and with a couple of exceptions, liked like many of mine. Work on that stump height, your giving up a lot of good wood on most trees. If it's bad or you screw up a little, it can always be trimmed off but you can't glue it back on. Make your back cut level to the knotch. Every inch above level, you loose about 25% of your hinge strength, so if your only holding a side leaner with a corner, might not be strong enough to hold.
If you have to double plunge a tree, tip your bar down on one, or both cuts so the cuts match up and don't leave a wafer. Try to learn where your tip is and only use enough bar to cut wood you know hasn't already been cut. Contrary to what some people believe possible, you can cut a six foot stump with a two foot bar!
Greetings from a small island. Interesting vid and an interesting patch of woodland with some gorgeous trees. It will be nice to see the timber sawn and used. Big/tall hardwoods over here in the UK are valuable, so the emphasis is always in maximising the value of the felled butt - ie avoiding splits. Alan Burton has it right: When felling a heavy leaner, leave a dog's tooth (back strap) at the rear as a trigger for the fell. Stops barber chairing. Also prevents tearing in the butt centre as you can cut to your ideal hinge thickness - you don't get a 'premature' fell. To prevent tearing in the sides of the butt by the hinge, place two small stopper cuts just below the level of the felling cut at 90 degrees to the hinge. Also protects the stump if you want it to coppice. To cut through the back strap to trigger the fell, cut downwards, not horizontally. This leaves an upstanding 'dog's tooth'. If your bar does not come all the way through, you will have to bore in from the far side. You can do that fairly early in the fell. Don't leave your dog's tooth in buttress wood - see below.
I was taught to start a fell on a tree with buttresses by removing the buttresses to leave a cylindrical trunk. That long bar would probably have just about reached the far side of tree 1... Doing this also seems to limit the tendancy for horizontal cuts to wander away from the horizontal. A steeper top cut in your birds mouth so that it closes much later in the fell also limits splitting. If your tree leans in the direction of intended fell, you can go less deep with the birds mouth, but your hinge needs to start at around 1/3 (to half) the diameter - ie be nice and long. I was taught that a bore cut through the back of the birds mouth is only used when the diameter of the tree at stump top approaches twice bar length (after removing buttresses). A 'throat bore' affects the hinge (inevitably) but it's all a compromise. Yes, I use a 'small' bar (and a small saw) so the cuts need to be accurate. I'm ticketed to twice bar length.
Hope this is useful. Things are different on this crowded, septic isle. Less woodland with hardwoods and we have been felling out the best trees for over 1000 years, which may have selected for hardwoods of poorer form. In the south of the island many of the hardwoods that are felled are trees that were left un-felled in world War 2 which also tends to mean that they are of less good form than your lovely trees.
2:30 that is the coolest sound i have ever heard a tree make. very satisfying.
White oak splits always unless you cut entire heart out, you have to leave very little wood at hinge. Whiskey barrels are split into staves
Your videos are very interesting... l'm glad that you are not like other youtubers, who just sit in there fancy workshops and making videos about new toys and just talking nonsens.
Always amazing to me to see just how a small amount of hinge can still hold up a huge tree like these. But then let a tornado come thru and see a tree like that ripped to shreds. Good job on cutting those.
Really glad to hear you're going for it! Your content is educational, entertaining, and just plain fun to watch. Keep it up!
You have no idea how helpful that is.. I am just an old widowed lady trying to maintain and clear my 50 acre farm with noting more than hand tools and an electric chainsaw ( Oregon self sharpening) a cub cadet walk behind brush cutter and an echo brush cutter. It isn't easy I tell you, but nothing worth it, never is easy... as they say. I just started a new fencing project for the year and of course I want to clear out any evergreen and red maples that I find. Right now I am leaving the big ones to keep growing, while I learn as much as I can for safety reasons. This is a whole new world for me, lol. I subscribed and you can bet I will be watching all your vids every chance I can get.
What a fun video - great info, drone work and more shop space! Excellent production! Thanks
Never disappointed with your content. Always entertaining and educational!
You have quite the place, would love to hear the backstory of the farm and how you guys came about living there.
I think most farms can be quite interesting if someone has the skills, time, money and desire work.
Thanks for the great content! I don't fell many trees but over the past 45 years they do add up. Whenever I see a tree with an odd base I recall a time in my 20's when I bit into a beech and within seconds the tree collapsed. Beech trees had a blight so I had been taking them for firewood and had already harvested several big ones without incident. That near-miss scared me so badly that even to this day I always whack the base trunk with a sledge hammer before I start the saw...never found another bad one...but I do check. Turns out that the bark was intact but the only place there was any solid wood was exactly where I started my cut. Thus the instant collapse.
Yikes. Glad it turned out ok.
I have several large beech on my property like that. One of them is probably a better job for tannerite its so janky. It's not near a fence I keep hoping nature does it for me
@@FarmCraft101 It was 99% luck and 1% glad I was standing on the uphill side.
@@mattfleming86 Things that go boom are so much more fun. Even if it is work.
Love that you speed up the video through the cutting portions and repetitive stuff. Thanks
Hi, I used to live not far from Dillwyn in Hereford, U.K., It’s a beautiful little village. Thanks for the video.
Terry Hale is exceptional on engineering the felling of trees.
It is very much a pleasure to listen to you explaining what you are taking into account when felling a tree. TYFS
Neat! I like to search TH-cam for "chainsaw mishaps" and spend 15 minutes getting properly horrified and regaining a healthy respect for my saw before I head out to do tree work. Nice to see someone using one properly for a change!
I think you do a great job. espcially with your sound, youre the only channel i watch where the tools arent way too loud. keep growing good luck
There is another reason for doing a plunge cut. We had a professional chainsaw instructor teach boy scout leaders about chainsaws and their use. He told us that ever since he had a tree blow up on him unexpectedly from hidden rot he now ALWAYS does a center plunge cut on anything over 5"? ... just to see what is hidden behind the bark. As an experienced logger he knew what to look for but the procedure changing tree hid its danger even from him. I love to see the way you actually USE the 45 degree retreat path once the tree begins falling.
For him the plunge cut was cut #1. His other cuts came afterwards.
I love this, just a guy showing how to do things. Nice and humble, keep up the good work
Been climbing/ cutting/ dropping trees 33 yrs.It's simple, haven't needed chaps, I just cut the trees, not my legs .
You are good at this. I would not change a lot. What I like is your calm no nonsens style. You are very good at explaining what you are doing and why which sounds simple but is not.
You could use a metal strap above your cut to prevent logs from splitting, in my opinion.
Very impressed that little tractor was able to drag that entire log
Your content is second to none. I have a hobby farm and I frequently find real value in the projects you do. Keep it up!
Good job on not dying. The plunge cut method is the way to go for sure.
Cut down my first tree the other day, learned a lot from your videos. Thank you! Cutting that notch was a lot harder than I thought it would be.
Get over to a actual tree guy video you will learn they will explain setting your hing and proper safety around the stump not demonstrated here. I suggest guilty of treason, billy bucking ray, they are more focused on residential but have very detailed information and knowledge
@@joshuabennett7334 this guys seems a great place to learn wood working as in milling. Falling, not so much. Gets the job done but not quite textbook. Especially his "plunge cut". That would get you sent home from working interview where I'm from. Plunge cut should be made parallel to the face cut, leaving a FULLY INTACT HINGE. The way he plunged at 18:22 is the correct way to do a plunge cut.
@@mturner221 his plung cut is a north eastern hardwood lager thing. I grew up in a north east logging town then moved west then south for context so I have seen the difference between west coast felling and east coast felling understand why they are used. His “plung” cut is for knocking out the heart wood when either your bar is to short to reach or it is going to leave the stump hard and fast hardwood will split easily. The plung cut your referring to is a boar cut. My biggest issues with his felling is he watches his curf and never watches the crown he doesn’t know how to set his hing in a controlled manner and his face cuts are to deep
Nice job on your hazard assessment! That’ll ensure many return trips to the woods and not the ER!
Try your sloping cut coming up from the bottom. This is called a Humboldt face cut. Depending on species and condition, you end up with the splinters pulling out of the stump rather than the log, and it protects the quality of your log better. But you were fighting an uphill battle with that first tree being rotten in the middle. A boring back cut, which is essentially what you did on #3, helps too, especially on leaners. Those two in tandem and you don’t have to bore out your holding wood as much, keeping more of the hinge intact and greater control during the fall. Keep your gunning cut and back cut level. The elevation difference between each side in the first tree caused it to have more holding wood and pull to that one side, which also potentially contributed to your splitting.
Nice drone flying in that tight canopy! And cool shots from above with the falling trees!
I was thinking the same thing about the Humboldt. Also you end up with more usable wood off the butt cut using it.
Love it! I'm getting a sawmill soon, so certainly interested in any tree work and details/teaching when you are milling
Multiple cameras, drone shots, music... next level
Appreciate the fact your spending a lot of time setting up and completing your TH-cam channel it.
You keep putting out quality videos like this your channel should really take off. Quite a diversity in what your doing and you really seem to know what your doing. Great explanation of the tasks or projects your working on.
Looking forward to the shop build. Very good felling instruction, thanks.
GREAT VIDEO! I NEED TO WATCH THE OTHER ONES ON HOW TO CUT DOWN TREES. I TRULY APPRECIATE YOU FOR YOUR HARD WORK.
We rarely get long, straight white oak like those logs in this part of the Left Coast. Mostly they all look like a dog's hind leg. Always enjoy your content, John.
Nuts 319 I think his name is, talks about taking the heart of the tree. Your explanation makes sense from a lumber mill perspective. Great video
Really enjoying the content John, you have an easy way about you that makes for easy viewing. LOVE the music! Keep going.
So happy for you to be free on a beautiful piece of forested land. Take great care for your safety. The Lord keep you.
that funky stump looks perfect for natural knees for ship building. Too bad you can't dig it out.
Great seeing someone be self sufficient. Your saw techniques are good. The Humboldt is helpful with tear out and diminishes the chance of damage to the usable part of the tree.
Was waiting for someone to recommend using a humboldt cut to maximize usable board feet. He loses 2 ft of trunk just because he's using a conventional notch.
2nd tree was very nice came down well and nice and straight and looks healthy
Really like that you take the time to explain what you are doing and why. Great videos!
Tree #2 was a nice clear white oak indeed!
Glad you mentioned the trousers seen to many videos of people using a chain saw with just jeans on lost a friend doing that bled to death cheers
What i like most about your clips. Its seems to me that you are a technician or a person with a technical education. You are explaining things in a way as i would do it. You concern about safety but you do it with common sense and not stupidly overcomplicated. Thats hard to find nowadays. Thanks for sharing.
nice farm! Really nice setup you have! wood lot, sawmill, woodworking shop! mechanic shop! very well done! Thanks for the video!
Loved your chainsaw guide
You make it look easy.
As an amateur I have cut several trees that large and had all kinds of fun problems.
I had a huge black walnut tree split in half as it fell.
Also had a huge cottonwood stick three bars with 6 wedges trying to hold it took 5 hours to fell it and buck it up. I realize now that I should have cut the center after cutting the wedge but before cutting the edges to the hinge.
Thanks for the great video!
The best teacher is experience.
I was a tree climber for 40 years and still do some at 70..
Rule of thumb - anything that can go wrong will !
I liked the, “Which one is it?” Shot
As professionals cutting trees for removal, we don’t bother with a bore-cut / plunge-cut on fairly vertical upright trees. On heavily leaning ones it is ESSENTIAL to plunge cut and establish your hinge, then remove the backstrap and send the tree over. For whatever reason you think backward on this one.
I was thinking that. He said he opted for safety by NOT plunge-cutting, but he had a much greater chance of barber chairing by not bore-cutting and then releasing the backstrap. Isn't it safer even if the center is rotted?
@@indigatorveritatis219 it’s important to note that he falls in a fashion that’s very uncommon outside of his region: traditional bore-cutting on a leaner is done by coming in from both SIDES of the tree, behind the face cut. You notch the front, bore through the tree and then come forward until your 10%-of-tree-diameter hinge is eatablished all the way across. Then cut the remaining wood at the back, and the tree goes over with zero chance of barber chair. He is plunging perpindicular to this, and I wouldn’t do that on a heavy leaner either.
@@WildAcresFarms I was confused when you said "perpendicular", because I had only seen the first tree being cut. I see what you're saying, and it's surprising to see someone take out so much hinge wood. I don't get the logic. Thanks for your insight
@@WildAcresFarms ...also, as a complete amateur, nailing the bore-cut from both sides is a challenge for me. I usually miss by a bit😄
I learn something every time I watch this Channel.. Thanks bruh
I could watch you felling and milling trees for hours :D never know what you gonna see inside a log!
Shoutout to Peter!!! He taught you now your teaching us!! Great videos
Very entertaining video John that pore squirrel had to scramble because you scared the crap out of him LOL 😆 @FarmCraft101
If you want an easy safe method to cut a heavy leaner with minimal to no damage to the log watch Logger Wades demonstration of a step cut. I have 30 years experience cutting timber and have found the step cut to be the best method to get a heavy leaner on the ground without damaging the log.
just took a huge ash tree down with my smaller saw. it came down nice and safe. Just took my time and made the correct cuts I had learned years ago from good logger. Several were the same as you used....very well done on your big trees.
Hey John, that dead tree was a perfect example of a Rampike. Great video thumbs up.
Plunge cuts are EXACTLY how you cut down a leaner.
The whole point in a plunge is to prevent a barber chair on a heavy leaner. You said you didn't plunge for safety. Can you expound?
Yes, I wish I had addressed this in the video but I didn't think to, and of course once the video is published you can't change anything. Plunging from the side to define the hinge while the back strap is still intact is what you are talking about and you are correct, that does prevent barber chair and is safer. I probably should have done that on this tree, but I didn't think it was leaning enough to make that necessary. Plunging from the face cut into the center of the tree as I did on the other 2 is a very different plunge cut, and that's what I was talking about. It's purpose is to prevent stump tearout and ensure a good log for lumber, not for safety. I didn't want to be in front of that leaning tree plunging the face cut, just felt risky to me.
Tip 1 cut the buttresses off first to reduce the bar size needed.
Tip 2 if you plunge the saw in to the back of the sink to sever the heart and just leave a hinge at the sides you prevent the heart ripping out.
A really informative video. They are big trees to fall so it’s no joke felling them. The tree felling is approached in a analytical and adaptable style.
I hope Farmcraft gets to the next level as it’s about doing stuff and showing how it’s done.
Hi John, I like the wide and varios content of your vids....thanks
You always seemed a decent feller :)
On the plus side, you had some nice oak firewood.
Your video was very educational Thanks for the video great piece of work❤❤😅
That funny looking growth would make a fine bowl!
Great job on dropping the trees, just be aware what’s up above, Lost a coworker not paying attention to a 20 foot limb that snapped off.
Experience is sometimes the best teacher. You'll get there.
The plunge cut is far safer to prevent barber chairs because the trigger is at the back of the tree, two wedges & down She'd go
For leaning trees, after setting the hinge depth with a face cut, plunge cut from the sides and leave a trigger on the back cut side. The trunk splitting can have fatal consequences. I'm not a logger but I have done a fair amount of reading and video watching about preventing "barber chair" accidents. Edit: Kinda like you did with tree #3. I commented too soon. 😂
Nice chainsaw work.
Been watching your videos for quite awhile. Just caught the end of this but I hope your plans for the future work. Always interesting!!
LOL! You made me laugh when you said you forgot your hat! ( Dummy) 😂🤦🏼♀️ Anyway awesome job for cutting trees down 🌲🪵🪓
Looking forward to the shop build! Thanks for the great videos 👍🏻
Dropping trees way wider than the length of the bar, can be done by basically eliminating one side of the tree first, ( by notching, and back cutting) then just use the other side , to drop the tree.
I would do the entire undercut first before I did any back cut whatsoever. Much safer.
That appendage from your first cut looked like several chain sawed bear statues up here in Minnesota!
I would recommend bore cutting, set the hinges and leave some wood in the back to hold the tree then once your hinges are set cut the holding wood
Hey John, I like how you build on what you've already taught. Great video, of course! I know that you're channel will only grow from here. It's just so good. I know YT will be your next career. And I'll watch every single video from now until then. ☺️
I've been subscribed to your channel for bout two years. I enjoy your content and wish you the best of luck on growing your channel. You deserve better algorithm from youtube. And I hope your goal of making this your career works out. Thanks for the free entertainment!
Always entertaining and thanks for passing on the knowledge... Keep up the good work!
no doubt you have plenty of trees to cut down. that lost wood because of the rot will all burn in the fire place regardless.
thank you for sharing this video.
liked, subscribed and shared
God bless
stupendous camara work, excellent vid thanks
I would encourage you to make more clips….. Not a farmer. Your vast talents marvel this 86 year older and make look for you regularly ….Rev Jim
He wrecked a perfectly good white oak tree
@@Helmsburgsawmill, It’s better to learn from other people’s mistakes that your own. Don’t you think?
Beautiful video. Great looking trees. Thank you for the info.
You da man. A man’s man. I don’t fell trees, but once they’re on the ground I’ll cut em up. A buddy of mine was killed by a freak split accident when we were younger. Hollow trees can do weird things and lots of times you don’t know it’s hollow. I never got past it and so I leave the felling to the more confident or the pros. Love your channel. Keep up the good work. Stay safe out there.
I wanted to say thank you, after watching your video I have now used your method of the plunge cut now two times, firs on a dead large butter nut last week and a 24" white pine today both to go on my saw mill and be used for lumber on our house. Both time it has worked exilent and have left the logs with NO tare out of the heartwood! Only thing i did different is after marking the back cut i did the plunge from the back side. Just wanted to say again thank you!
you did good . didnt get hurt and they are on the ground and the lumber wil be put to good use. something happen to even the best. Good job fella.
I have been subbed for a very long time (I think almost from the beginning), and I have no doubt that you will continue to grow your channel. I absolutely love almost all your content.
Thanks for sharing your cutting techniques
That unusual growth at 12:02 looks like a profile of a Rhino head with his horn missing