i hope you guys enjoy my first ever movie i had about 9-10 hours of footage and it didn't feel right to upload multiple parts since everything in this video has 1 objective. get the engine built!
I know I'm hopping on an old video, BUT for any future gaskets made with silicon. Use hondabond, its a little pricey but we've used it with great success on our high HP GTR's and Huracans. That shit will never leak like permatex does. Hondabond is the absolute GOAT for any gasket.
This is the video that I needed...about to tear into my S52 and loved the in depth look. This video is going in the archive with the m3nace and pawining videos. Amazing work...hope it works out!!!!
i talked to you on some market place feed and you told me a full assembly video was coming soon you didn't disappoint great vid love the content as always
This helped me so much joel I’m currently doing a full restoration on my e36 and after a full body restoration im planning on doing the full m52b30 stroker kit on it this gave me so much motivation on some fr shit
This entire video was amazing, always loving the content. You are what inspired me to make a s52 clone m52 that is going in my '90 e30. Cant wait to rip around in it, these videos help with learning about these engines too!
You have to prime your oil pump with oil... look up the direction for the acillies oil pump, you got to pour oil into the pump and rotate it on the car. ALSO, thoes valves are two piece. your sanding the wielded area. Not sure if I would do that. I know you know about dropped valves... thats the advantage of a m50nv valve/head combo, the extra 1mm is extra area to wield a.k.a. stronger in theory. (Or just buy one piece valves)
That .5mm difference with the cylinder bore and copper spacer will lower compression. If you have turbo you can add a few extra psi but with na it will lower performance. Need to measure copper spacer thickens plus .5mm of difference to get final compression ratio.
34:21 just so ya know Eagle had a bad run on rods a while back the clearances for the rod bearings were all over the place. Most people switched to Molnar or K1 Rods.
hey instead of soapy water, another popular method is to use Auto Trans Fluid with Coffee Filters ($1.00 for like 100,000 of them lol) just in case you want to feel better than using soapy water
Maintaining a BMW is like painting a Bridge.. You start at one end, go to the other side - and then go back to the beginning and start again. Oh BTW it's perfectly okay to leave the plastigauge on the bearing shell and the oil will dissolve it away when the engine starts - it's designed to be like that as you read. Is it best practice? I'll leave it up to you to decide
Next time you’re trying to break the rod caps free from the rod just thread the cap bolts in a few threads and hit down on the bolts with your rubber mallet.
I hate to be the one to say it but there are different types of main lower timing chain guides (the big one the tensioner pushes on), it looked like you have the wrong one for your engine there. not really supposed to be able to slide back and forth like that. It might still work but i'd be double checking it to avoid possible damage.
Yoooo such a good video dude! This is so helpful and its all in one video 🙌 currently swapping my E30 with an M52 and would like to attempt my first full rebuild at some point, could you put a link to the actual parts washer you used in the video, im trying to buy one that can also fit the sump like yours
Im not sure if you didnt show it but when you said the arrow of the vanos chain needs to be level with the head you turned it to sit straight up. so you timed it wrong according to bmw manual no?
If using a torque plate distorts the cylinder walls, I wonder how having the engine on the stand affect the measurements. Wouldn't it be better to build when it's supported by the mounts instead?
@ImJoel Sorry Bro, but you installed 2 pistons in the wrong direction!!!! Piston 2 and 3 are wrong. @46:30 you can see the different valve cut outs. Sry my English is bad :D
noticed you used the wrong chain guide, your block is a pre 95 m50/s50 block and needs the guide PN 11311722654, the one you put on is the updated one that clips on by itself with no C clip!
Don’t straight push the piston down, you have to tap it in, otherwise you’ll get what happened on 6 when it could have been sent right into the crank. Which will more than likely damage it.
would just like to add i used both methods stated here with the same tool joel had and broke a ring on piston 1. waiting a few days to get another ring and ill try again.
Problem is if you tap it what can happen, is in between two of your taps if the ring is close to the end of the compressor it might slide and pop out and on the next tap you break it. Proper way IS to push, but there's some truth to the tapping technique, if he tapped it a little to break it free he wouldn't have to push that hard, and it wouldn't have slammed. So I guess tap it to get it close and when it's close to the edge push in one motion to make sure a ring doesn't pop out.
1:35:10 this is the content I want. Jokes apart I loved every minute of this video, loved the length of it! Patiently waiting for the full assembly on the e30 to see you and her rip! Keep up the awesome work!
Also, for the next time (I hope it won't need any more rebuilds lol) - when installing the pistons, tap the cylinders with a handle, instead of pushing, while occasionally flattening the ring compressor on the block :)
I cannot express how much I appreciate this video. I can only imagine how much extra time it took to set up the camera each time and editing the video. I'm defintitely going to use this video as a reference for my own build. Again, thank you so much! The engine looks sick!
Awesome video. Here is a good suggestion. Next time on the cam caps you leave the bolts loose and threaded. Then smack the tops of the bolts with the hammer. It pushes the piston down which also releases the cap
Also. Install all of your pistons and rings before plastigaging the rod bearings. The rings will hold the pistons in. That way you install all 6 pistons. Flip the block over. And then plastigage 2 at a time. Saves tremendous amounts of time and accidents. The piston shouldn’t fall out of the block lol
Really good video on building up these engines, just a few pointers for any future builds, or anyone following along Your main studs aren't getting full thread engagement on the nuts, and this is a known issue with ARP studs in these engines, you need to back the stud out a few turns by hand or drop a ball bearing in to the thread holes before the studs to space them out In future when checking rod bearing clearances, fit the pistons and rods with the rings attached to hold them in place You also want to check the rod bearing clearances with the ARP assembly lube on both the rod bolt threads and the underside of the head on the rod bolts, to ensure they achieve the correct torque Don't push the pistons in to the bore with one hard hit, but instead a series of softer taps with the hammer handle, whilst occasionally making sure the ring compressor is flat to the block It looks like you have the wrong long chain guide on the block, as it's not supposed to move in and out like that, which means it's probably for an Ali M52/M54 from an E46. There is a chain guide that is correctly spaced and held in place by the circlip that you fitted You really shouldn't have sprayed WD40 in the cylinder head for an overnight stint, but more importantly, it will now likely mix with the oil and cause contamination issues, as WD40 can be used to displace oil and decrease it's effectiveness. Just be sure to flush the engine very soon after first startup and engine break in When refitting the head studs to the block, you don't need to lube the block thread end of the studs, as they are supposed to be installed dry, as per ARP instructions. They do not rotate at all when the head is torqued down You don't need to use pliers to pull the pistons out of the lifters, if you place them on a block of wood and tap them with a rubber mallet, it will pop the Piston out Bleeding the lifters up before installation is fine, as they will bleed out to the desired height when the engine is running, it's actually the engine oil pressure that keeps them pumped up, which is why they fail in high revving applications When refitting the cam trays and lifters, just rotate the engine on the stand on to its side and you can slide the trays on to the studs with no danger of the lifters falling out
32:20 you put the rod stud or bolts in with a piece of hose over them and flip the engine over an push the pistons in with a ring compressor. I use 5/16" silicone hose over some studs I have around to keep it from scoring the walls.
I waz waiting on you to damage a bearing installing them like that. But they do look really hard. I install bearings all day long at cummins for 6.7s and theyre so soft if theyre tight and you dont push inwards theyll scratch the undersides quick as shit. Theyre extremely easy to scratch. Just touching them together will do it
I've watched this full build on an account that wasn't signed in now im on a( SIA) I've been searching for this channel for a day an a 1/2 to subscribe
I made it the whole way. BTW water is not as efficient at cooling as antifreeze. So just keep that in mind. Water in the cooling system is a no no. Ever. Even if it is a waste of money.
i hope you guys enjoy my first ever movie i had about 9-10 hours of footage and it didn't feel right to upload multiple parts since everything in this video has 1 objective. get the engine built!
must have taken so long to edit my boy this what we like to see 😭😭😭
Thank you Joel. Mad respect on the feature film this morning.
I'm learning so much bro, appreciate your videos. I want to do this conversion on my e28, peace from South Africa. e30's have a cult following here
Lol you can put mini pictures of yourself as emojis that’s funny and dope
Thanks Joel. Love the content. Take your time to make em your way. Respect
2 hours of joel, couldn't get better
Facts 💪🏾
ayo🤨
ong
@@zaynepelayo5806 😂😂😭
He’s honestly a good dude
I know I'm hopping on an old video, BUT for any future gaskets made with silicon. Use hondabond, its a little pricey but we've used it with great success on our high HP GTR's and Huracans. That shit will never leak like permatex does. Hondabond is the absolute GOAT for any gasket.
Can’t wait to watch this after classes are over 🔥🔥
you can build the piston with the rings dry and then you can lube them before installing then into the block. great job my brother!!!!!!
This is the video that I needed...about to tear into my S52 and loved the in depth look. This video is going in the archive with the m3nace and pawining videos. Amazing work...hope it works out!!!!
I watched the whole 2 hours, that was hella entertaining, congrats on the fully rebuilt engine!!
I don't usually watch engine build, but this one i watched fully and i was actually enjoying 😃
i talked to you on some market place feed and you told me a full assembly video was coming soon you didn't disappoint great vid love the content as always
Rebuilding a m20b27i soon. Different engine, but still nice to see the process from beginning to end. Nice work 👌🏿
congrats, that’s a lot of work out there, can’t wait to see the car back to track again
cant get any better than 2 straight hours of quality joel content. much love.
Use transmission fluid and coffee filters to clean your cylinder walls before assembly. ARP wedge spring compressor is the only way to go
Great job with the rebuild
as well as editing that video
good to see someone with multiple skills
He had the skill to install piston 2 and 3 in the wrong direction :D @46:30
Watched from beginning to end. Fire vid
Damn bro, huge amount of work being done here. Keep up we want to see this shit running asap🔥
This helped me so much joel I’m currently doing a full restoration on my e36 and after a full body restoration im planning on doing the full m52b30 stroker kit on it this gave me so much motivation on some fr shit
YOOOO 2 hours of content!!! Hella hyped
mas this is awesome, im at work atm, going to binge this later on!! so Excited!
Never owned a BMW but watched the whole video so I had to subscribe
I’m just waiting for the engine to start this can’t get any better I’m hype for Joel for complete his engine
Just watched this in one sit, was very entertaining!
Hyped to see you put it back in.
Keep it up man :)
Bro this video made me so happy :D 2h of Joel and I learned alot too! Love it
THE WAIT IS OVER
Damn it’s about time 😂
Great video Bro, can't wait to get my engine going next, soon soon, so you are running copper spacer with cut head ring head gasket
loved this video, inspired me to try and build my first motor at 16
This entire video was amazing, always loving the content. You are what inspired me to make a s52 clone m52 that is going in my '90 e30. Cant wait to rip around in it, these videos help with learning about these engines too!
When removing dowels you place a drill or rod that fits inside the down before gripping it. That way you don't distort the dowel
You should put an old ring on the piston to set the ring evenly while gapping
Loved every bit of this video
You have to prime your oil pump with oil... look up the direction for the acillies oil pump, you got to pour oil into the pump and rotate it on the car. ALSO, thoes valves are two piece. your sanding the wielded area. Not sure if I would do that. I know you know about dropped valves... thats the advantage of a m50nv valve/head combo, the extra 1mm is extra area to wield a.k.a. stronger in theory. (Or just buy one piece valves)
Absolutely enjoooyed this movie cant wait to see it start
That .5mm difference with the cylinder bore and copper spacer will lower compression. If you have turbo you can add a few extra psi but with na it will lower performance. Need to measure copper spacer thickens plus .5mm of difference to get final compression ratio.
this was great man watched it all and keen to see how well this goes.
im boutta watch this entire thing.
34:21 just so ya know Eagle had a bad run on rods a while back the clearances for the rod bearings were all over the place. Most people switched to Molnar or K1 Rods.
I’m really watching this in one sitting, and is this me or was this the first time you said to “subscribe “ and showed the icon in screen lol
Yesssirrrr, love these vids, makes me wanna do the same thing
hey instead of soapy water, another popular method is to use Auto Trans Fluid with Coffee Filters ($1.00 for like 100,000 of them lol) just in case you want to feel better than using soapy water
Maintaining a BMW is like painting a Bridge.. You start at one end, go to the other side - and then go back to the beginning and start again. Oh BTW it's perfectly okay to leave the plastigauge on the bearing shell and the oil will dissolve it away when the engine starts - it's designed to be like that as you read. Is it best practice? I'll leave it up to you to decide
I hit the like button as soon as i walked in
w video, cant wait till this things in!
Nice build but the only thing I say you should have changed was the valve springs to dual valve springs from a m50 non vanos head
What's The Benefit
@@SupremeKai_Omniverse hold the valves closed better than single springs to run more boost
Mad content bro
Only TIGERASO music in this channel 🐅
Next time you’re trying to break the rod caps free from the rod just thread the cap bolts in a few threads and hit down on the bolts with your rubber mallet.
I hate to be the one to say it but there are different types of main lower timing chain guides (the big one the tensioner pushes on), it looked like you have the wrong one for your engine there. not really supposed to be able to slide back and forth like that. It might still work but i'd be double checking it to avoid possible damage.
love this bro
“I’m so confused, f*ck am I messing this up?” Literally me anytime I attempt something new 😂😂👌🏻
I think there should’ve been a gasket on the oil pump housing
Nope, no gasket required. The only one is the pickup tube to the pump
mans had me up till 1 am watching the whole video, shit was valid tho good vid my boy
Amazing
your homie is right there I would of blamed the piston on him 😂😂
not quite sure if you should put grease on the threads of the studs, you should only apply it onto the washer directly.
Yoooo such a good video dude! This is so helpful and its all in one video 🙌 currently swapping my E30 with an M52 and would like to attempt my first full rebuild at some point, could you put a link to the actual parts washer you used in the video, im trying to buy one that can also fit the sump like yours
manito tap them in, its better then just pushing then in like that.
Im not sure if you didnt show it but when you said the arrow of the vanos chain needs to be level with the head you turned it to sit straight up. so you timed it wrong according to bmw manual no?
Looking goodddd, put that engine in and make burnouts 🥳
If using a torque plate distorts the cylinder walls, I wonder how having the engine on the stand affect the measurements. Wouldn't it be better to build when it's supported by the mounts instead?
can we get a link for that part washer. another class video brotha
@ImJoel Sorry Bro, but you installed 2 pistons in the wrong direction!!!! Piston 2 and 3 are wrong. @46:30 you can see the different valve cut outs. Sry my English is bad :D
It’s here😁😁😁😁
Nice ride🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Dope video, good one to save. Lol
Hey what’s up with this
M51 mechanical pump + big turbo= 399hp 800nm fuck gasoline . Diesel power
Hey what are you going to do with the old copper spacer? Would you sell it?
Next time when your gonna clean the piston use gasoline and a medium soft brush its easy and fast
Joel ur a fuckin legendddd
DUDE! How the F do you know so much? Its great watching!
1:51:50 what fell in?
Where can I get the rings for the 84.5 mm head gasket
1:38:18 the beat go off? 😭😭
That teflon washer needs to b put in hot water
noticed you used the wrong chain guide, your block is a pre 95 m50/s50 block and needs the guide PN 11311722654, the one you put on is the updated one that clips on by itself with no C clip!
how bad can you fuck up assembling an engine and it still runs afterwards lmfao
Here from door dash from like two years ago
Hey bro whats the tool called that keeps beeping on you turning the bolts
edit: with the foot pounds
torque wrench
Only real ones watch the full video
1:42:21
Don’t straight push the piston down, you have to tap it in, otherwise you’ll get what happened on 6 when it could have been sent right into the crank. Which will more than likely damage it.
if you tap it the rings will get stuck like they did multiple times here, you also risk damaging the rings
@@Galorchs if you slam it like he was you can get the rings stuck aswell. If you have a half decent ring compressor it won’t get stuck
would just like to add i used both methods stated here with the same tool joel had and broke a ring on piston 1. waiting a few days to get another ring and ill try again.
Problem is if you tap it what can happen, is in between two of your taps if the ring is close to the end of the compressor it might slide and pop out and on the next tap you break it.
Proper way IS to push, but there's some truth to the tapping technique, if he tapped it a little to break it free he wouldn't have to push that hard, and it wouldn't have slammed.
So I guess tap it to get it close and when it's close to the edge push in one motion to make sure a ring doesn't pop out.
@@samwhittman3162
This is the sketchiest engine assembly video on TH-cam.
Basically what im gonna do in a week
1:35:10 this is the content I want.
Jokes apart I loved every minute of this video, loved the length of it!
Patiently waiting for the full assembly on the e30 to see you and her rip! Keep up the awesome work!
bro I scrolled straight to the comments to make sure I wasn't the only one who heard that 💀
Also, for the next time (I hope it won't need any more rebuilds lol) - when installing the pistons, tap the cylinders with a handle, instead of pushing, while occasionally flattening the ring compressor on the block :)
I’m hype for when you get this car back on the road! It’s littt watching you build a engine like wth that’s crazy bro. Killer work and ethic
I cannot express how much I appreciate this video. I can only imagine how much extra time it took to set up the camera each time and editing the video. I'm defintitely going to use this video as a reference for my own build. Again, thank you so much! The engine looks sick!
Awesome video. Here is a good suggestion. Next time on the cam caps you leave the bolts loose and threaded. Then smack the tops of the bolts with the hammer. It pushes the piston down which also releases the cap
Also. Install all of your pistons and rings before plastigaging the rod bearings. The rings will hold the pistons in. That way you install all 6 pistons. Flip the block over. And then plastigage 2 at a time. Saves tremendous amounts of time and accidents. The piston shouldn’t fall out of the block lol
these tips would’ve saved me so much time 😭 i appreciate it!
i really hope you fixed that @ImJoel 1:51:49 i think your gasket fell off
lets goooo
Really good video on building up these engines, just a few pointers for any future builds, or anyone following along
Your main studs aren't getting full thread engagement on the nuts, and this is a known issue with ARP studs in these engines, you need to back the stud out a few turns by hand or drop a ball bearing in to the thread holes before the studs to space them out
In future when checking rod bearing clearances, fit the pistons and rods with the rings attached to hold them in place
You also want to check the rod bearing clearances with the ARP assembly lube on both the rod bolt threads and the underside of the head on the rod bolts, to ensure they achieve the correct torque
Don't push the pistons in to the bore with one hard hit, but instead a series of softer taps with the hammer handle, whilst occasionally making sure the ring compressor is flat to the block
It looks like you have the wrong long chain guide on the block, as it's not supposed to move in and out like that, which means it's probably for an Ali M52/M54 from an E46. There is a chain guide that is correctly spaced and held in place by the circlip that you fitted
You really shouldn't have sprayed WD40 in the cylinder head for an overnight stint, but more importantly, it will now likely mix with the oil and cause contamination issues, as WD40 can be used to displace oil and decrease it's effectiveness. Just be sure to flush the engine very soon after first startup and engine break in
When refitting the head studs to the block, you don't need to lube the block thread end of the studs, as they are supposed to be installed dry, as per ARP instructions. They do not rotate at all when the head is torqued down
You don't need to use pliers to pull the pistons out of the lifters, if you place them on a block of wood and tap them with a rubber mallet, it will pop the Piston out
Bleeding the lifters up before installation is fine, as they will bleed out to the desired height when the engine is running, it's actually the engine oil pressure that keeps them pumped up, which is why they fail in high revving applications
When refitting the cam trays and lifters, just rotate the engine on the stand on to its side and you can slide the trays on to the studs with no danger of the lifters falling out
I love how you explain everything so thoroughly. Especially when approaching a problem and engineering a solution.
32:20 you put the rod stud or bolts in with a piece of hose over them and flip the engine over an push the pistons in with a ring compressor. I use 5/16" silicone hose over some studs I have around to keep it from scoring the walls.
Thank you for this step by step, and I fu** with the parts washer.
If someone asks me how to assemble an engine, I would be like: "Eagle facing forward" :D :D
Youre videos are so comforting, easiest 2 hour video ive watched :) Been binging all of them the last week.
I waz waiting on you to damage a bearing installing them like that. But they do look really hard. I install bearings all day long at cummins for 6.7s and theyre so soft if theyre tight and you dont push inwards theyll scratch the undersides quick as shit. Theyre extremely easy to scratch. Just touching them together will do it
Fuck yeah a new video been looking forward too
I've watched this full build on an account that wasn't signed in now im on a( SIA) I've been searching for this channel for a day an a 1/2 to subscribe
I made it the whole way. BTW water is not as efficient at cooling as antifreeze. So just keep that in mind. Water in the cooling system is a no no. Ever. Even if it is a waste of money.
why the f use copper spacer? ur going forged just get lowered CR pistons? Litterly cringed whole way thru...